Cibrarjp  of  Che  Cheological  Seminary 

PRINCETON  • NEW  JERSEY 


•a^azt- 


FROM  THE  LIBRARY  OF 
ROBERT  ELLIOTT  SPEER 


F3T4I 
. f\  (o  W L>  & 


- 


TRAVELS 

AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES 
OF  THE  EQUATOR 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/travelsamongstgr00whym_1 


THE  WHIRLING  SNOW  MOCKED  OUR  EFFORTS. 


TRAVELS 
AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES 
OF  THE  EQUATOR 


EDWARD 


WHY.M  PER 


WITH  MAPS  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 


To  sit  on  rocks,  to  muse  o’er  flood  and  fell, 

To  slowly  trace  the  forest’s  shady  scene, 

Where  things  that  own  not  man’s  dominion  dwell. 

And  mortal  foot  hath  ne’er,  or  rarely  been  ; 

To  climb  the  trackless  mountain  all  unseen, 

This  is  not  solitude  ; 'tis  but  to  hold 

Converse  with  Nature’s  charms,  and  see  her  stores  unroll'd 

Byron. 


NEW  YORK 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER’S  SONS 
1892 


[All  rights  are  reserved ] 


Copyright,  1892,  hy 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER’S  SONS. 


Press  of  J.  J.  Little  & Co. 
Aster  Place,  New  York 


INTRODUCTION. 


It  will  be  within  the  knowledge  of  most  of  those  who  take  up 
this  book  that  it  has  long  been  much  debated  whether  human 
life  can  be  sustained  at  great  altitudes  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  in  such  a manner  as  will  permit  of  the  accomplishment  of 
useful  work.1 

The  most  opposite  statements  and  opinions  have  been  advanced 
concerning  this  matter.  The  extremes  range  from  saying  that 
fatal  results  may  occur,  and  have  occurred,  from  some  obscure 
cause,  at  comparatively  moderate  elevations,  down  to  that  no 
effects  whatever  have  been  experienced  at  the  greatest  heights 
which  have  been  attained.  Allegations  of  the  latter  class  may  be 
set  aside  for  the  present,  for  the  evidence  is  overwhelming  that, 
from  14,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  and  upwards,  serious 
inconveniences  have  occurred ; that  prostration  (amounting  in  the 
more  extreme  cases  to  incapacitation)  has  been  experienced ; and 
that,  in  some  instances,  perhaps,  even  death  has  resulted  through 
some  cause  which  operates  at  great  elevations. 

This  evidence  has  come  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  has 
accumulated  during  several  centuries.  It  has  been  afforded,  in- 
dependently, by  multitudes  of  persons  of  diverse  conditions  — by 
cultured  men  of  science  down  to  illiterate  peasants,  the  latter  of 
whom  cannot  have  heard  of  experiences  beyond  their  own ; and, 
although  the  testimony  often  differs  in  detail,  it  agrees  in  the 

1 In  saying  this,  it  is  not  meant  that  there  is  any  doubt  as  to  the  possibility 
of  the  existence  of  life  at  great  elevations,  for  aeronauts  have  several  times  shewn, 
since  the  commencement  of  this  century,  that  life  may  exist,  for  short  periods,  at 
heights  exceeding  any  as  yet  discovered  upon  the  earth. 


VI 


INTRODUCTION. 


general,  leading  features.  Nausea  and  vomiting  ; headaches  of  most 
severe  character  ; feverishness  ; hemorrhages  ; lassitude,  depression 
and  weakness,  and  an  indescribable  feeling  of  illness,  have  been  re- 
peatedly mentioned  as  occurring  at  great  elevations,  and  have  only 
been  cured  by  descending  into  lower  zones.  To  these  maladies 
the  term  mountain-sickness  is  now  commonly  applied. 

It  is  very  generally  admitted  that  mountain-sickness  should 
be  attributed  to  the  diminished  atmospheric  pressure  (or,  as  it  is 
termed,  to  the  rarefaction  of  the  air)  which  is  experienced  as  one 
goes  upward.  Yet,  in  various  parts  of  the  world,  the  notion  is,  and 
has  long  been  entertained,  that  it  is  due  to  local  causes,  such,  for 
example,  as  noxious  exhalations  from  vegetation.  Some  support  to 
this  notion  seems  to  be  found  in  the  fact  that  whilst  the  greatest 
heights  in  Europe  (15-16,000  feet)  are  annually  ascended  by 
throngs  of  persons  without  perceptible  inconvenience,  multitudes 
of  others  in  Asia  and  America  suffer  acutely  at  lower  elevations 
(14-15,000  feet) ; and  it  would  therefore  seem  that  there  are  influ- 
ences at  work  on  the  latter  continents  which  do  not  operate  in 
Europe.  The  apparent  discordance  is  explicable  without  having 
recourse  to  local  influences,  which  could  not  be  deemed  sufficient 
to  account  for  the  effects  in  general,  even  if  they  might  be  enter- 
tained in  particular  instances.  Whilst  the  assumed  causes  are 
local,  the  observed  effects  are  world-wide ; and  no  cause  would  be 
adequate  to  account  for  the  effects  except  one  operating  in  every 
clime  and  at  all  times. 

But,  although  it  is  very  generally  admitted  that  the  evils  which 
have  been  enumerated  are  due  to  diminished  atmospheric  pressure, 
many  persons  are  unconvinced  that  such  is  the  true  explanation, 
especially  those  who  are  accustomed  to  travel  amongst  the  mount- 
ains of  Europe  ; and  it  is  pointed  out,  apparently  with  force,  that 
the  whole  of  the  symptoms  can  be  produced  by  other  causes,  and 
that  aeronauts  have  sometimes  attained  higher  elevations  than  have 
ever  been  reached  on  the  earth,  and  have  scarcely  been  affected 
at  all.  It  is  argued  that  some  persons  are  predisposed  to  nausea, 


INTRODUCTION. 


vii 

that  others  are  liable  to  bleeding  at  the  nose,  or  habitually  suffer 
from  headache,  and  that  this  accounts  for  much  which  has  been 
laid  to  rarefaction  of  the  air  ; and  further,  it  is  said,  or  conjectured, 
that  the  fatigues  inseparable  from  travel  in  mountain-regions 
account  for  more  : in  short,  that  mountain-sickness  is  to  be  attri- 
buted to  the  frailties  of  human  nature,  or  to  the  imperfections  of 
individual  constitutions,  and  is  considered  as  a sign,  or  indication, 
of  weakness  or  incompetency. 

It  is  undeniable  that  there  is  some  truth  in  these  observations, 
and  it  can  scarcely  be  doubted  that  effects  which  have  been  pro- 
duced by  fatigue  have  often,  wrongly,  been  attributed  to  rare- 
faction of  the  air,  and  that  effects  which  have  been  produced  by 
rarefaction  of  the  air  have  often  been  assigned  to  fatigue.  The 
immunity  from  unpleasant  symptoms  which  has  sometimes  been 
enjoyed  by  aeronauts,  even  when  bounding  in  a few  minutes  to 
enormous  elevations,1  has  tended  to  foster  scepticism ; and  has 
appeared  to  support  the  opinion  that  fatigue  and  personal  imper- 
fections have  had  much  to  do  with  mountain-sickness,  and  not  to 
accord  with  the  view  that  it  is  produced  by  diminished  pressure — 
otherwise,  why  should  these  persons,  transported  without  effort  to 
superior  elevations  in  the  air,  have  escaped,  whilst  others,  at  much 
inferior  ones  upon  the  earth,  suffer  ? 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  occupy  these  pages  with  a mass  of 


1 The  following  (lata  are  taken  from  the  Reports  of  Mr.  J.  Glaisher,  F.R.S.,  to  the 
British  Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  1863-3 — 


Date. 

July  17,  1863 

Time. 
9.43  a.m. 
10.37  „ 

Barometer. 
39-193) 
14-637 ) 

Diff.  of  Time. 
44  min. 

Dill,  of  Pressure. 
14-55  inches. 

Sept.  5,  ,, 

j j n 

1.3  P.M.  ' 
1.36  „ 

39-17  ) 
14-55  S 

33  „ 

14-63  „ 

April  18,  ,, 

>>  JJ 

1.17  „ 
1.49  „ 

39-66  ) 
14-81  j 

33  „ 

14-85  „ 

Starting  from  the  level  of  the  sea,  the  height  attained  in  each  case  was  about  19,000 
feet,  without  injurious  effects  being  felt.  I am  not  aware  that  any  one,  upon  the 

earth,  has  ever  experienced  a natural  difference  of  pressure  of  fourteen  and  a half 
inches  in  less  than  four  or  five  days. 


INTRODUCTION. 


viii 

extracts  in  support  of  the  foregoing  statements.  Those  who  desire 
to  pursue  the  matter  in  detail  may  usefully  turn  to  the  very  com- 
prehensive summary  in  La  Pression  Barometrique,  by  M.  Paul 
Bert,1  where  15G  pages  are  devoted  to  experiences  in  high  places, 
25  more  to  aeronauts,  and  120  more  to  theories.  Evidence  of  a 
nature  similar  to  that  which  is  quoted  by  M.  Bert  continues  to 
accumulate,  and  is  often,  apparently,  of  a contradictory  character. 
For  example,  since  returning  from  the  journey  which  is  described 
in  the  following  pages,  three  writers  upon  Mexico 2 have  mentioned 
that  breathing  is  affected  in  that  city  by  the  “ rarefied  atmosphere/ 
although  the  altitude  in  question  is  less  than  8000  feet  above  the 
sea  ; while  on  the  other  hand,  quite  recently  (in  speaking  of  the 
Southern  Andes  up  to  heights  13,800  feet  above  the  sea),  Dr. 
A.  Plagemann  says,  “ with  regard  to  the  effects  of  rarefied  air  on 
the  body  at  high  elevations,  neither  he  nor  his  companions  suffered 
at  all.”3  Still  more  divergent  is  the  statement  by  Mr.  W.  W. 
Graham  that  he  reached  nearly  the  height  of  24,000  feet  in  the 
Himalayas,  and  that  “ neither  in  this  nor  in  any  other  ascent  did 
he  feel  any  inconvenience  in  breathing  other  than  the  ordinary 
panting  inseparable  from  any  great  muscular  exertion.”4 

This  unique  experience  has  met  with  little  credence  in  India. 

1 G.  Masson,  Paris,  1878.  This  work  has  received  the  highest  honours  in 
France.  The  experiments  made  by  M.  Bert  upon  himself  at  low  pressures,  although 
extremely  interesting,  left  off  sooner  than  could  have  been  desired.  In  the  first  of 
the  two  experiments  which  I quote  in  the  Appendix  to  this  volume,  he  submitted 
himself  to  an  artificial  diminution  of  pressure  somewhat  greater  than  that  which  is 
experienced  at  the  summit  of  Chimborazo,  and  in  the  second  one  to  about  the  press- 
ure which  would  be  enjoyed  on  the  top  of  Mount  Everest.  But  this  was  done  for 
only  a brief  space  of  time.  The  first  experiment  extended  over  only  sixty-six  minutes 
and  the  second  one  over  eighty-nine  minutes  ; and,  as  soon  as  an)-  ill  effects  com- 
menced to  manifest  themselves,  M.  Bert  refreshed  himself  with  oxygen.  The 
experiments  shewed  that  oxygen  may  exercise  a beneficial  influence. 

2 See  A Trip  to  Mexico,  by  H.  C.  R.  Becher,  Toronto,  1880,  p.  73  ; Mexico  To- 
Day,  by  T.  U.  Broekleliurst,  London,  1883,  p.  28  ; and  Winter  in  the  Slant  of  the 
Sun,  in  Good  TPords,  1887,  p.  245,  by  the  Bishop  of  Rochester. 

3 Proceedings  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  April  1887,  p.  249. 

4 Proc.  Royal  Geog.  Soc.,  August  1884,  p.  434. 


INTRODUCTION. 


IX 


It  is,  however,  a certain  fact  that  all  individuals  are  not  equally 
affected  by  diminished  pressure,  and  that  instances  have  occurred 
at  such  heights  as  14-15,000  feet  in  which  some  persons  have 
suffered  whilst  others  have  escaped,  though  the  latter  have  not 
been  exempt  upon  mounting  to  greater  altitudes.  But  whilst  this 
must  be  admitted  ; and  also  the  probability  that  the  effects  of 
fatigue  have  often  been  wrongly  interpreted  ; and,  further,  that 
personal  frailties  are  frequently  manifested  upon  mountain  ascents, 
or  at  great  elevations,  there  is  a large  residuum  which  cannot  be 
explained  away  ; and  any  one  examining  the  matter  can  hardly 
fail  to  arrive  at  the  conclusion  that  mountain-sickness  is  a world- 
wide reality. 

This  subject,  long  since,  appeared  to  me  to  be  worthy  of  inves- 
tigation for  its  own  sake,  more  particularly  for  ascertaining  the 
heights  at  which  effects  begin  to  manifest  themselves  ; the  symp- 
toms ; and  whether  the  effects  are  permanent.  It  seemed  certain 
that,  sooner  or  later,  every  one  must  be  affected  by  diminished 
pressure,  but  the  manner  in  which  it  would  operate  was  uncertain, 
and  whether  its  effects  would  be  felt  permanently  at  any  given 
elevation  was  unknown.  Those  who  have  been  affected  by  mount- 
ain-sickness have  always  desired  to  be  rid  of  the  infliction,  and 
have  descended  to  lower  levels  at  the  earliest  opportunity.  Hence 
it  had  not  been  ascertained  whether  cures  might  be  effected  on  the 
spot ; or,  to  put  the  matter  in  another  way,  whether  one  can  be- 
come habituated  to  low  pressures.  The  remarks  which  have  fallen 
from  those  who  are  most  entitled  to  attention  have  not  been  of  an 
encouraging  nature,  and  it  may  be  inferred  from  their  general  tenor 
that  as  the  cause  is  constant  and  permanent  so  will  the  effects  be 
constant  and  permanent. 

De  Saussure,  after  finding  himself  through  weakness,  and  diffi- 
culty in  breathing,  unable  to  make  during  a four  and  a half  hours’ 
stay  on  the  summit  of  Mont  Blanc  the  experiments  which  he  had 
repeatedly  performed  in  less  than  three  hours  at  the  level  of  the 

b 


X 


INTRODUCTION. 


sea,  said  lie  thought  it  probable  that  they  would  never  be  made  at 
the  higher  station.1 

Darwin,  who  visited  the  Portillo  Pass  in  the  Chilian  Andes, 
although  but  slightly  affected  there  (at  13-14,000  feet),  said,  “cer- 
tainly the  exertion  of  walking  was  extreme,  and  the  respiration 
became  deep  and  laborious.  It  is  incomprehensible  to  me  how 
Humboldt  and  others  were  able  to  ascend  to  the  elevation  of 
19,000  feet.” 2 

The  Schlagintweits  attained  great  heights  in  Asia,  and  made 
some  remarks  that  are  more  to  the  point  than  any  others  which  I 
am  able  to  quote,  although  they  do  not  go  much  into  detail.  In 
the  second  volume  of  their  Results  of  a Scientific  Mission  to  India 
and  High  Asia?  p.  484,  they  say,  “As  to  the  beneficial  effect  of 
acclimatisation,  we  can  speak  from  our  own  personal  experience.” 
[By  this  expression,  I understand  them  to  say  that  they  became 
somewhat  habituated  to  low  pressures.]  But  they  add,  in  continu- 
ation. “ what  might  have  been  the  consequence  had  we  prolonged 
our  stay  in  these  lofty  regions  it  is  impossible  to  say,  the  proba- 
bility, however,  being  that  a longer  sojourn  would  have  told  severely 
upon  our  health.”  This  is  said  in  connection  with  an  attempt  that 
they  made  to  ascend  Ibi  Gamin  (Kamet),  on  Aug.  19,  1855,  upon 
which  occasion  they  reached  the  height  of  22,230  feet.4  In  a 
Report  by  them  which  was  published  at  Madras  in  1855  (and 
was  reprinted  at  Calcutta)  there  is  this  further  information  : — 
“At  two  o’clock  at  last  it  had  become  absolutely  impossible  to  go 

1 “Quoique  je  ne  perdisse  pas  un  seul  moment,  je  ne  pus  faire  dans  ces  4 heures 
<fc  demie  toutes  les  experiences  que  j’ai  frdquemment  aehevees  en  moins  de  3 heures 
au  bord  de  la  mer.” — Voyages  dans  les  Alpes,  vol.  iv,  p.  148. 

“Je  conservois  l’esp^ranee  bien  fondle  d’achever,  sur  le  Col-du-Geant,  ce  que  je 
n’avois  pas  fait,  <fc  que  vraisemblablement  l’on  ne  fera  jamais  sur  le  Mont-Blanc.” — 
Id.  § 3033,  p.  315. 

3 Narrative  of  the  Surveying  Voyages  of  His  Majesty's  Ships  Adventure  and 

Beagle,  vol.  iii,  p.  393.  3 London  and  Leipzig,  1863. 

4 The  height  was  deduced  from  observations  of  mercurial  barometer,  and  it  is  the 
greatest  as  yet  attained  upon  the  earth  which  has  been  determined  by  observations 
on  the  spot. 


INTRODUCTION. 


xi 


any  higher  ; two  of  our  people  who  had  got  sick  had  remained 
behind,  and  we  all  the  rest  felt  exceedingly  tired  and  exhausted,  as 
we  certainly  never  ice  re  in  our  life.  . . . We  had  got  much  used 
to  the  influence  of  height,  especially  during  our  Thibetan  journey, 
but  up  there  not  one  escaped  unhurt;  we  all  felt  headache.” 

To  attain  results  which  might  be  of  a more  or  less  conclusive 
character,  it  appeared  to  me  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  eliminate 
the  complications  arising  from  fatigue,  privations,  cold,  and  insufti- 
ciencv  or  unsuitability  of  food  ; that  the  persons  concerned  should 
have  been  previously  accustomed  to  mountain  work ; that  the 
heights  to  be  dealt  with  ought  to  be  in  excess  of  those  at  which  it 
had  been  generally  admitted  serious  inconveniences  had  occurred  ; 
and  that  preparations  should  be  made  for  a prolonged  sojourn  at 
such  elevations. 

The  Himalayas  and  their  allied  ranges  offered  the  best  field  for 
research,  and  in  1874  I projected  a scheme  which  would  have 
taken  me  in  the  first  instances  on  to  the  very  ground  where  others 
had  been  placed  hors  de  combat,  and  from  these  positions  I proposed 
to  carry  exploration  and  research  up  to  the  highest  attainable 
limits.  But,  just  at  the  time  when  it  was  possible  to  start,  our 
rulers  entered  upon  the  construction  of  a ‘ scientific  frontier  ’ for 
India,  and  rendered  that  region  unsuitable  for  scientific  investiga- 
tions. I was  recommended  by  experienced  Anglo-Indians  to  defer 
my  visit,  and  I followed  their  advice.  Equally  debarred,  by  the 
unhappy  dissensions  between  Chili,  Peru,  and  Bolivia,  from  travel 
amongst  the  highest  of  the  Andes,  I turned  to  the  Republic  of 
Ecuador,  the  most  lofty  remaining  country  which  was  accessible. 

As  the  main  object  of  the  journey  was  to  observe  the  effects  of 
low  pressure,  and  to  attain  the  greatest  possible  height  in  order  to 
experience  it,  Chimborazo  naturally  claimed  the  first  attention,  on 
account  of  its  absolute  elevation  above  the  sea;1  and  I proposed  to 

1 Its  height,  according  to  Humboldt,  is  21,425  feet.  See  Recueil  d' observations 
astronomiques,  d'operations  trigonometriques,  et  de  mesures  barometriques , par  Alex- 
andre de  Humboldt,  Paris,  1810,  vol.  i,  p.  lxxiii  (introd.). 


INTRODUCTION. 


xii 

encamp  upon  this  mountain,  at  gradually  increasing  heights,  with 
the  ultimate  aim  of  reaching  the  summit.  But  as  there  was  no  cer- 
tainty that  this  could  be  done,  and  a possibility,  at  least,  that  the 
results  of  the  investigations  might  be  of  a negative  character, 
various  other  objects  were  kept  in  view,  principal  amongst  them 
being  the  determination  of  the  altitudes  and  of  the  relative  posi- 
tions of  the  chief  mountains  of  Ecuador,  the  comparison  of  boiling- 
point  observations  and  of  aneroids  against  the  mercurial  barometer, 
and  collecting  in  Botany  and  Zoology  at  great  heights.  I concerned 
myself  neither  with  commerce  or  polities,  nor  with  the  natives  and 
their  curious  ways  ; and  there  are,  besides,  many  interesting  topics 
which  might  be  dwelt  upon  that  find  no  place  in  this  volume. 
The  Ecuadorian  Loan,  for  example,  is  a capital  subject,  and  a few 
pages  might  well  be  devoted  to  a matter  in  which  the  public  takes 
so  much  interest,  and  from  which  it  derives  so  little. 

Having  only  my  own  very  small  means  to  depend  upon,  my 
staff  was  necessarily  upon  the  most  modest  scale.  Three  assistants 
were  indispensable,  and  these  I proposed  to  draw  from  the  mount- 
ain-guides of  Europe.  My  old  guide,  Jean-Antoine  Carrel,  of  Val 
Tournanche,1  accepted  my  proposals,  and  two  others  also  agreed 
to  go  but  withdrew  from  their  engagements  shortly  before  the  date 
for  departure,  and  placed  me  in  a great  difficulty.  After  vainly 
endeavouring  to  obtain  the  services  of  some  of  the  best-known  men, 
I was  obliged  to  instruct  Carrel  to  bring  any  one  he  could.  His 
cousin  Louis  (with  whom  I was  already  acquainted)  came,  but  no 
one  else  could  be  procured  at  so  short  notice,  and  a third  man  had 
to  be  picked  up  in  Ecuador,  and  proved,  naturally,  of  no  service 
when  a knowledge  of  mountain-craft  was  wanted. 

It  was  not  advisable  to  attempt  to  travel  in  Ecuador  without 
recognition,  and  I sought  the  good  offices  of  the  then  President  of 
the  Alpine  Club  in  this  matter.  I cannot  acknowledge  too  warmly 
the  cordial  co-operation  of  Mr.  Charles  Edward  Mathews,  and  the 

i For  the  antecedents  of  J.-A.  Carrel,  see  Scrambles  amongst  the  Alps,  J.  Murray, 
1871. 


INTRODUCTION. 


xiii 

personal  trouble  he  took  that  my  wishes  might  be  efficiently  re- 
presented in  the  right  quarters.  Through  his  instrumentality,  I 
was  put  in  communication  with  the  Ecuadorian  Consul-General 
in  Great  Britain  (Mr.  Edmund  Heuer  of  Manchester),  and  subse- 
quently received  from  His  Excellency  the  President  of  the  Republic 
assurance  that  I should  be  heartily  welcome  in  his  country  ; and, 
upon  application  at  the  Foreign  Office,  Lord  Salisbury  was  pleased 
to  direct  Her  Majesty’s  representatives  at  Guayaquil  and  Quito 
to  afford  every  assistance  in  their  power  — an  instruction  which 
they  interpreted  sympathetically.  Upon  the  introduction  of  Mr. 
Mathews,  George  Dixon,  Esq.,  M.P.  for  Birmingham,  rendered 
most  valuable  service  by  undertaking  to  send  out  in  advance 
and  to  place  in  secure  hands  at  Guaranda  and  Quito  a quantity 
of  my  heavy  baggage. 

Through  my  old  friend  Mr.  Douglas  Freshfield,  the  Caucasian 
explorer,  the  projected  journey  became  known  to  Freiherr  von  Thiel- 
mann,  who  had  recently  ridden  through  Colombia  and  Ecuador,1 
and  he  most  kindly  met  me  at  Ostend,  to  give  the  benefit  of  his 
experiences  ; and  from  this  accomplished  diplomatist-traveller  it 
was  communicated  to  Dr.  Alphons  Stubel,  of  Dresden,  who  with  rare 
liberality  presented  me  with  a copy  of  the  unpublished  altitudes  in 
Ecuador2  which  had  been  deduced  from  the  observations  made  by 
him  in  1871-73  in  conjunction  with  Dr.  W.  Reiss.  Many  other 
equally  friendly  services  were  performed  both  by  friends  and 
strangers,  especially  by  the  fraternity  of  mountain-travellers,  and 
amongst  the  very  last  communications  which  reached  me,  just 
before  departure,  came  a cheering  bon  voyage  from  the  veteran 
Boussingault,  who  forty-eight  years  earlier  had  himself  endeavoured 
to  ascend  Chimborazo. 

Similar  good  fortune  continued  on  the  outward  voyage.  My 
sincere  thanks  are  due  to  the  agents  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steam 
Packet  Company,  and  to  the  Acting-Consuls  at  Colon  and  Panama, 

1 And  made  the  ascent  of  Cotopaxi. 

8 Alluras  tomadas  en  la  Republica  del  Ecuador , Quito,  1873. 


XIV 


INTRODUCTION. 


for  their  undeserved  attentions,  and  particularly  to  the  Right  Hon. 
H.  C.  Childers  (at  that  time  chairman  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steam 
Packet  Company),  who  most  courteously  granted  me  the  use  of 
one  of  his  cabins  in  order  that  work  might  be  carried  on  uninter- 
ruptedly. Upon  arrival  at  Guayaquil  we  were  at  once  received 
into  the  house  of  Mr.  George  Chambers,  H.B.M.’s  Consul,  and  were 
treated  with  genuine  hospitality. 

It  is  now  my  duty  to  acknowledge  in  the  most  prominent 
manner  the  invaluable  services  which  were  rendered  throughout 
the  journey  by  the  cousins  Carrel.  Travellers  are  not  always 
fortunate  in  their  assistants,  and,  occasionally,  even  fall  out  with 
them.  Under  circumstances  which  were  frequently  trying,  our 
party,  although  exceedingly  small,  was  always  closely  united.  The 
imperturbable  good  temper  of  the  one  man,  and  the  grim  humour 
of  the  other,  were  sources  of  continual  satisfaction.  I trusted  my 
person,  property,  and  interests  to  their  care  with  perfect  confidence, 
and  they  proved  worthy  of  the  trust,  and  equal  to  every  demand 
which  was  made  upon  them. 

We  travelled  through  Ecuador  unarmed,  except  with  passports 
which  were  never  exhibited,  and  with  a number  of  letters  of  intro- 
duction which  for  the  most  part  were  not  presented  ; adopting  a 
policy  of  non-intervention  in  all  that  did  not  concern  us,  and 
rigidly  respecting  the  customs  of  the  country,  even  when  we  could 
not  agree  with  them  : and  traversed  that  unsettled  Republic  with- 
out molestation,  trusting  more  to  our  wits  than  to  our  credentials, 
and  believing  that  a jest  may  conquer  where  force  will  fail,  that  a 
lon-mot  is  often  better  than  a jmssport. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

FROM  LONDON  TO  GUARANDA. 

ECUADORIAN  POLITENESS — GUAYAQUIL — ENGAGE  AN  INTERPRETER — THE  RAINY 
SEASON — SOME  SNAKE  STORIES — RIVER  GUAYAS  AND  ITS  TRIBUTARIES — ARRIVE 
AT  BODEGAS  DE  BA BAHOYO— INDECOROUS  BEHAVIOUR  OF  OUR  MULES — ALL 
ALIVE  AT  LA  MONA — “THE  ROYAL  ROAD  ” — A TROPICAL  JUNGLE — ASCENT  OF 
THE  OUTER  ANDES — TaMBO  LOMA  (THE  HOTEL  ON  THE  HILL) — SUMMIT  OF  THE 
OUTER  RANGE — THE  PACIFIC  RANGE  OF  ECUADOR — DESCENT  INTO  THE  VALLEY 
OF  THE  RIVER  CHIMBO — ARRIVAL  AT  GUARANDA — MAPS  BY  LA  CONDAMINE  AND 
DON  PEDRO  MALDONADO— ROUTE  MAP  AND  MAP  OF  CHIMBORAZO  . Pages  1-18 

CHAPTER  II. 

FROM  GUARANDA  TO  THE  FIRST  CAMP  ON  CHIMBORAZO. 

A CANDID  MAN — INVISIBILITY  OF  CHIMBORAZO — THE  GREAT  ARENAL — VISIT  TO 
TORTORILLAS — THE  AUTHORITIES  OF  GUARANDA — TREASURES  ! — FIRST  VIEW  OF 
CHIMBORAZO — DISCOVERY  OF  ITS  TWO  SUMMITS — MAGNITUDE  OF  ITS  GLACIERS 
— DISCUSSION  OF  ROUTE — THE  SOUTH-WEST  RIDGE — THE  CARRELS  START  TO 
SELECT  A CAMPING-PLACE — PRINCIPAL  OBJECT  OF  THE  JOURNEY — HUMBOLDT’S 
ATTEMPT  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO  IN  1802 — BOUSSINGAULT’S  ATTEMPTS  IN  1831 
— DIVINE  SPEED — DISILLUSIONIZED — COMPARISONS  OF  THE  BAROMETERS — A 
HOPE  DISSIPATED — EXECUTED  INSTANTANEOUSLY — RETURN  OF  THE  CARRELS — 
MORE  THAN  19,000  FEET  HIGH  “BY  ANEROID  ” — A PARTING  BENEDICTION — 
ARRIVAL  AT  THE  FIRST  CAMP  ON  CHIMBORAZO  . . , 19-40 

CHAPTER  III. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 

INGRATITUDE — ROUTE  UP  THE  VALLON  DE  CARREL — ON  MOUNTAIN-SICKNESS — 
PLAN  OF  OPERATIONS — THE  COMMISSARIAT — ARRIVAL  AT  THE  SECOND  CAMP — 
EOBS  DE  COMBAT — CHLORATE  OF  POTASH — THE  MERITS  OF  RED  WINE — PER- 
RING  DISTINGUISHES  HIMSELF — SYMPTOMS  OF  MOUNTAIN-SICKNESS — LIFE  AT  LOW 
PRESSURES — REASONS  WHY  MERCURIAL  BAROMETERS  ARE  BROKEN — PRECAU- 
TIONS— STRANGE  BEHAVIOUR  OF  THE  ANEROIDS — DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  SOUTH- 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


WEST  RIDGE — EXPLORATION  BY  THE  CARRELS — MORE  THAN  19,000  FEET  HIGH 
BY  MERCURIAL  BAROMETER — ESTABLISHMENT  OF  THE  THIRD  CAMPt-THE  OX- 
CHEEK  OF  CHICAGO — A LIBELLOUS  STATEMENT — DESERTION  OF  THE  INDIANS 
— ARRIVAL  AND  FLIGHT  OF  THE  GUARD — ‘‘THE  BONES  OF  SOME  RUMINANT” 
— ASSAULT  OF  THE  BREACH — DISCOMFITED — SECOND  ATTACK — PASSAGE  OF  THE 
BREACH — ARRIVAL  ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  CHIMBORAZO — ITS  HEIGHT — DISCORDANT 
OBSERVATIONS  — SANGAI  IN  ERUPTION  — THE  SOUTHERN  WALLS  — AN  ICE- 

AVALANCHE — the  retreat  .....  Pages  41-80 


CHAPTER  IV. 

FROM  CHUQUIPOQUIO  TO  AMBATO,  LATACUNGA  AND  MACHACHI. 

FROST-BITTEN — PERRING  IS  DESPATCHED  TO  AMBATO — AN  ARISTOCRATIC  INN- 
KEEPER— DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  TAMBO  OF  CHUQUIPOQUIO — OUR  APPETITES  FAIL 
— HEIGHT  OF  THE  BAROMETER  ON  CHIMBORAZO — WEATHER  ON  CHIMBORAZO — 
THE  BASIN  OF  RIOBAMBA — DIMENSIONS  OF  CHIMBORAZO — RETURN  OF  PERRING 
WITH  THE  LITTER — THE  ROBBER  OF  CHUQUIPOQUIO — THE  HIGHWAY  TO  QUITO 
— MEASUREMENT  ON  THE  ROAD— DOCTORED  AT  AMBATO — VISITS  AND  VISITORS — 
THE  DRY  SHERRY  OF  AMBATO — WAGNER’S  “ ASCENT”  OF  CHIMBORAZO  — MARKET- 
DAY — THE  PUMICE  OF  AMBATO — WE  CAPTURE  A “ BISHOP  ” — TUNGURAGUA — 
THE  BASIN  OF  AMBATO — LATACUNGA — OCCUPATIONS  OF  THE  LADIES — ARRIVAL 
AT  MACHACHI — “IT  IS  ONLY  THE  GBINGOS”  ....  81-99 

CHAPTER  V. 

ON  AN  ASCENT  OF  CORAZON,  AND  WALKS  IN  THE  LANES 
OF  MACHACHI. 

A TRUTHFUL  INN-KEEPER — LIFE  IN  THE  INTERIOR — MY  YOUNG  FRIENDS  AT 
MACHACHI — GREAT  BEDS  OF  VOLCANIC  DUSTS — THE  BASIN  OF  MACHACHI — WE 
SEE  A DEAD  DONKEY  AND  MEET  A SCORPION — LA  CONDAMINE’s  ASCENT  OF 
CORAZON — DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  SUMMIT — ON  “ RANGE  IN  ALTITUDE  ” — ENTO- 
MOLOGY AT  GREAT  HEIGHTS  — HUMBOLDT’S  YELLOW  BUTTERFLY — A ZOOLOGIST’S 
PARADISE — WALKS  IN  THE  LANES  OF  MACHACHI — ANTONIO  RACINES  INTRODUCES 
ME  TO  AN  AMP3IPOD — THE  DOGS  OF  MACHACHI  . . . 100-119 

CHAPTER  VI. 

ON  COTOPAXI  AND  ILLINIZA. 

THE  PROJECT — LOUIS  BECOMES  CONVALESCENT — WE  GO  TO  THE  FARM  OF  ROSARIO 
— COTOPAXI  — ANGLES  OF  ITS  SLOPES — ITS  POSITION  AND  ERUPTIONS — ERUPTIONS 
IN  1877 — DARKNESS  CAUSED  BY  CLOUDS  OF  EJECTED  ASH — LAVA  BOILS  OVER 
THE  RIM  OF  THE  CRATER — THE  FLOODS  THAT  ENSUE — FIRST  ASCENT  OF  COTO- 


CONTENTS. 


XVII 


PAXI  BY  DR.  W.  REISS — OTHER  ASCENTS — ON  ILLINIZA — PERPETUAL  JUSTS — WE 
ENCAJIP  AT  15,207  FEET — GLACIERS  ON  ILLINIZA— TUFTED  SNOW-CORNICES — 
DEFEATED — WEATHER  IN  THE  INTERIOR  OF  ECUADOR  . . Pages  120-135 

CHAPTER  VII. 

THE  ASCENT  OP  COTOPAXI,  AND  A NIGHT  ON  THE  SUMMIT. 

START  FOR  COTOPAXI  BY  FREIHERR  VON  THIELJIANN's  ROUTE — PEDREGAL — ABUND- 
ANCE OF  BEETLES  ON  THE  PLAIN  OF  LIJ1PIOPONGO  — COLPODES — BOMBS  THROWN 
OUT  BY  COTOPAXI  — WE  CAMP  AT  15,130  FEET  — CULINARY  TROUBLES  — THE 
YANASACHE  LAVA  AND  ITS  SURROUNDINGS — ON  VOLCANIC  “ASH,”  DUSTS,  SANDS, 
AND  LAPILLI — THE  INSINUATING  NATURE  OF  VOLCANIC  DUST — DESCRIPTIONS 
BY  PROF.  T.  G.  BONNEY — THE  WORSHIP  OF  THE  CROSS — NATIVE  ATTIRE — SHOES 
OF  STRING — PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  ASCENT — FLORA  OF  THE  CONE — THE  START 
— CUMULUS  CLOUD  SEEN  23,000  FEET  HIGH — GLACIERS  ON  COTOPAXI — ARRIVE  AT 
THE  TERMINAL  SLOPE  OF  ASH — THE  PREVALENT  WINDS — REACH  THE  EDGE  OF 
THE  CRATER  AND  GO  PARTLY  ROUND  IT — ENCAJIP  AT  19.500  FEET — WARMTH 
OF  THE  CONE  — COLDNESS  OF  THE  AIR  — A NIGHT  ON  THE  SUMMIT  — ARE  WE 
“HABITUATED”? — INSPECTION  OF  THE  CRATER  BY  NIGHT — PERIODICAL  STEAM- 
BLASTS — DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  CRATER — “THERE  WAS  FIRE  BELOW” — A GREAT 
SAFETY-VALVE — THE  HEIGHT  OF  COTOPAXI — DESCENT  TO  PEDREGAL — SOJIE  MORE 

“ TREASURES  ” ! . . . . . . . 136-156 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  SINCHOLAGUA. 

A SEVERELY  SCIENTIFIC  ASCENT — THE  OLD  STYLE — GIANTS  WANTED — SINCHOLAGUA 
— CROSS  THE  RIO  PITA  — DECEITFUL  GROUND  — WARM  SPRINGS  — MANNER  OF 
APPROACH  TO  THE  SUJIJ1IT  — BEATEN  BACK  — THUNDER  AND  LIGHTNING  — 
STEEPNESS  OF  THE  IJIJIEDIATE  SUMMIT  — DEPARTURE  FROM  JIACHACHI  AND 
ARRIVAL  AT  QUITO  .......  157-166 


CHAPTER  IX. 

ON  QUITO  AND  THE  QUITONIANS. 

THE  BASIN  OF  QUITO — POPULATION  OF  THE  CITY — QUEBRADAS — WATER  AND 
WATER-CARRIERS  — THE  PANECILLO  — MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  AT  QUITO  — A 
TRUCULENT  INNKEEPER  — ON  HEAD  - GEAR  AND  HATS — INTERVIEW  WITH  THE 
PRESIDENT  — HOW  GENERAL  VEINTEMILLA  CAME  INTO  POWER — HISTORY  — 
GARCIA  JIORENO  — DEMONSTRATIONS — A PROMISING  PEOPLE  — MANANA  — ECUA- 
DORIAN BONDS — INDIANS  AT  QUITO  — PRICES  IN  ECUADOR  — OPENINGS  FOR 
COMMERCIAL  ENTERPRIZE — ON  BANKS  AND  MONEY — AN  EASY  WAY  OF  EARNING 
A DIVIDEND  ........  167-183 


CONTENDS. 


xviii 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  ANTISANA. 

THE  BASIN  OF  CHILLO— AGUIRRE'S  METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  IN  THE  COMPTES 
REED  US — A CHAMPION  MUD-HOLE — THE  HACIENDA  OF  PINANTURA — RENCONTRE 
WITH  SESfoR  REBOLLEDO  — THE  GREAT  LAVA  - STREAM  OF  ANTIS ANILLA  — 
ARRIVAL  AT  THE  HACIENDA  OF  ANTISANA  — THE  CLOUDINESS  OF  ANTISANA  — 
BEATEN  ON  OUR  FIRST  ATTEMPT  AT  AN  ASCENT— ON  SNOW-BLINDNESS — START 
AGAIN,  AND  CAMP  AT  15,984  FEET  ABOVE  THE  LEVEL  OF  THE  SEA — ENORMOUS 
CREVASSES  — “I  FEAR  AN  AVALANCHE”  — ARRIVAL  ON  THE  SUMMIT  — HIGH 
TEMPERATURES  — THE  HEIGHT  OF  ANTISANA  — CRATERS  AND  CREVASSES  — THE 
FLORA  OF  ANTISANA  — ON  CONDORS  AND  FLIGHTS  OF  THE  IMAGINATION — THE 
RANGE  IN  ALTITUDE  OF  THE  CONDOR — A GREAT,  SOLEMN  ASSEMBLY  — THE 
COTTON  FACTORY  AT  CHILLO — RETURN  TO  QUITO  . . Pages  184-206 

CHAPTER  XI. 

UPON  AX  ASCENT  OF  PICHINCHA. 

A CURE  FOR  SOUR  BLOOD — REMINISCENCES  OF  CHICAGO — THE  ROUTE  TO  PICHINCHA 
— ITS  TWO  SUMMITS,  RUCU-  AND  GUAGUA — EESILLADAS — A TAME  CRATER — 
NATURE  OF  THE  HIGHEST  POINT — RECURRING  SPECIES  — HUMMING-BIRDS  — 
SALT  FISH  FOR  DINNER  ......  207-216 

CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  CAYAMBE. 

THE  ROAD  TO  THE  NORTH — CAYAMBE — CROSS  THE  GREAT  QUEBRADA  OF  GUALLA- 
BAMBA — ECCENTRICITIES  OF  THE  ANEROIDS — A FIGHT  FOR  THE  CHAMPIONSHIP 
— SPORT  IN  ECUADOR — A POTATO  BED  — START  FOR  THE  ASCENT  OF  CAYAMBE 
— MENACED  BY  A CONDOR — DISAPPEARANCE  OF  JEAN  - ANTOINE  AND  ITS  CON- 
SEQUENCES— INDIAN  HOSPITALITY — INGRATITUDE  — CAMP  ON  CAYAMBE  AT 
14,762  FEET — THE  POINTE  JARRIN  AND  THE  ESPINOSA  GLACIER  — ASCENT  OF 
CAYAMBE  (19,186  FEET) — OUR  FASTEST  ASCENDING  RATE — SARA-URCU — COLD 
QUARTERS  ........  217-237 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  SARA-URCU. 

LIFE  AT  LA  DORMIDA  (11,805  FEET)  — EXPERIENCES  OF  GONZALO  PIZARRO  — THE 
TREASURES  OF  SARA-URCU  — A CAMP  IN  A SWAMP  — WATER-PARTING  ON  THE 
EQUATOR  — THE  CHUSQUEA  ARISTATA  OF  MUNRO  — CORREDOR  MACHAI  (THE 
HUNTER'S  REFUGE) — THE  FATE  OF  THE  BARK  HUNTERS — TICKLED — INCESSANT 
RAINS — THE  CHIEF  OF  THE  STAFF  IS  ATTACKED  IN  THE  REAR — A GLIMPSE  OF 
SARA-URCU  — TURNING  AN  ENEMY  TO  ACCOUNT  — ARRIVAL  ON  THE  SUMMIT  — 
THE  HEIGHT  OF  SARA-URCU — A SUPER-SATURATED  PLACE — HUMBOLDT’S  FIRE- 
PROOF FISH — WHO  SHALL  DECIDE  WHEN  DOCTORS  DISAGREE  ? . 238-255 


CONTENTS. 


xix 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

ON  THE  PROVINCE  OF  IMBABURA,  AND  THE  FIRST  ASCENT 
OF  COTOCACHI. 

IN  QUEST  OF  ANTIQUITIES  — DISCOVERY  OF  AN  OLD  INDIAN  KETTLE  ! — THE  PRO- 
VINCE OF  IMBABURA — GO  TO  COTOCACHI  AND  MAKE  FRIENDS  WITH  THE  PRIEST 
— THE  LATEST  THING  IN  QUEBRADAS — UPHEAVAL  OR  SUBSIDENCE  ? — THE  ASCENT 
OF  COTOCACHI  — THE  WHIRLING  SNOW  MOCKS  OUR  EFFORTS  — ON  THE  SUMMIT 
OF  COTOCACHI  (16,301  FEET) — SUNDAY  SPORTS — THE  TUMULI  OF  HUTANTAQUI — 
DESTRUCTION  OF  IBARRA — GO  TO  CARRANQUI — EVIDENCES  OF  A “STONE  AGE  ” 
— STARS  IN  STONE — ARE  THEY  WEAPONS  OR  SYMBOLS?  — TYPICAL  STONE  IM- 
PLEMENTS— HOUSEHOLD  GODS  — SCARCITY  OF  OBJECTS  IN  METAL  — OLD  INDIAN 
POTTERY — MUSICAL  WHISTLES — “VASE-BUSTS” — THE  CONTENTS  OF  A GRAVE — 

a smash  on  mojanda — return  to  quito  . . . Pages  256-286 

CHAPTER  XV. 

A VISIT  TO  THE  PYRAMIDS  OF  QUITO. 

JEAN -ANTOINE  AND  LOUIS  ASCEND  ILLINIZA  — THE  BASE-LINE  OF  THE  FRENCH 
ACADEMICIANS  — ERECTION  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS  OF  QUITO  — FUSS  OVER  THE 
INSCRIPTIONS — DESTRUCTION  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS — DISCOVERY  OF  LA  CONDAMINE’S 
INSCRIBED  STONE — THE  MODERN  PYRAMIDS — SELLING  OFF — “ NO  TRUST  GIVEN  ” 
— POPULATION  OF  ECUADOR  — ENGAGE  FRANCISCO  JAVIER  CAMPANA  — FINAL 
DEPARTURE  FROM  QUITO  ......  287-295 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

UPON  A WALK  ON  THE  QUITO  ROAD,  AND  A JOURNEY  TO  ALTAR. 

ANOTHER  ATTEMPT  ON  ILLINIZA  — DAVID'S  PET  LLAMA  — REPULSED  — RATES  ON 
ILLINIZA — A WALK  ON  THE  QUITO  ROAD — THE  POLITICAL  TAILOR — THE  MASTER 
OF  CANDELARIA  — AT  CAMP  IN  THE  VALLEY  OF  COLLANES  (12,540  FEET)  — 
DESCRIPTION  OF  ALTAR  — RETREAT  — A NIGHT  AT  PENIPE — HABITS  OF  THE 
ECUADORIAN  MULE  .......  296-309 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  CARIHUAIRAZO. 

WE  RETURN  TO  THE  CHARGE  — AN  HONEST  INDIAN  — CAMP  NEAR  THE  HIGH  ROAD 
AND  MEASUREMENT  FOR  “A  SCALE” — HIGHWAY  ROBBERS  — A THREATENED 
ATTACK  — QUICKSANDS  — CAMP  ON  CARIHUAIRAZO  (13,377  FEET)  — PEDRO  DE 
PENIPE  — SARA  - URCU  TACTICS  — ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  CARIHUAIRAZO  (16,515 
FEET) — AN  INSULAR  FLORA — A CRATER  WANTED — JOY  TURNED  INTO  MOURNING 
— OUR  DOG  BECOMES  SNOW-BLIND — CROSS  ABRASPUNGO  (14,480  FEET) — A GREAT 
LAVA- STREAM  — FOURTH  CAMP  ON  CHIMBORAZO  (14,359  FEET) — MONSIEUR 
DECEIVES  HIMSELF  !.......  310-319 

c 


XX 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

ON  THE  SECOND  ASCENT  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 

CHIMBORAZO  FROM  THE  NORTH-NORTH-WEST — THE  FIFTH  CAMP  (15,811  FEET)  — 
PEDRO  DECLINES  AN  ASCENT — AN  ERUPTION  OF  COTOPAXI — CROSS  THE  GLACIER 
DE  STUBEL  AND  SEE  THE  PACIFIC  — A GREEN  SUN  — DIRECTION  OF  THE  WIND 
REGISTERED  — A FALL  OF  VOLCANIC  DUST  ON  THE  TOP  OF  CHIMBORAZO 
REGISTERS  THE  HEIGHT  OF  THE  BAROMETER  — THE  GREATEST  HEIGHT  AT 
WHICH  PHOTOGRAPHY  HAS  BEEN  PRACTISED  — A CALCULATION  — TWENTY-FIVE 
THOUSAND  PARTICLES  TO  A GRAIN  ! — CAUSE  OF  THIS  ERUPTION — REDUCTION  IN 
THE  HEIGHT  OF  CHIMBORAZO  — THE  RATE  OF  THE  SECOND  ASCENT  — ON  A 
BAROMETRIC  LEVEL — GREAT  AREXALS — THE  FLORA  OF  CHIMBORAZO — COMPLETE 
THE  MEASUREMENT  FOR  “A  SCALE”  ....  Pages  320-334 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

UPON  SOME  RESULTS  OF  THE  JOURNEY. 

CONFIGURATION  OF  THE  ANDES  OF  ECUADOR  — PARALLEL  CORDILLERAS  — THE 
WALLS  OF  CHIMBORAZO  — HUMBOLDT'S  TRIANGLE  — ALTITUDES  OF  THE  GREAT 
ANDES  OF  THE  EQUATOR  — TEMPERATURES  ON  SUMMITS  — ON  THE  SNOW  - LINE 
AND  GLACIERS — BOTANICAL  RESULTS — ZOOLOGICAL  RESULTS — UPON  OUR  EXPERI- 
ENCES AT  LOW  PRESSURES  ......  335-384 


CHAPTER  XX. 

RETURN  TO  GUAYAQUIL— CONCLUSION. 

A PUBLIC  DUTY  — DEATH  IN  THE  NIGHT  — REMAINS  OF  A COMBAT  — DESCENT 
THROUGH  THE  FOREST  — THE  LAST  CAMP  — THE  BRIDGE  OF  CHIMBO  AND  THE 
ECUADORIAN  RAILWAY  — YOUR  EXCELLENCY  HAS  FORGOTTEN  TO  PAY  FOR  THE 
PINE-APPLES  ! — DEPARTURE  FROM  GUAYAQUIL  ....  385-392 

APPENDIX. 


A.  ALTITUDES  DETERMINED  IN  ECUADOR  .....  395 

B.  THE  RANGE  OF  THE  BAROMETER  IN  ECUADOR  ....  402 

C.  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  AGAINST  THE  MERCURIAL  BAROMETER  405 

D.  UPON  BOILING-POINT  OBSERVATIONS  . . . . . 417 

E.  TEMPERATURES  IN  ECUADOR  ......  421 

F.  UPON  BODY  TEMPERATURE  ......  425 

G.  humboldt’s  attempt  to  ascend  Chimborazo  . . . 428 

H.  BOUSSINGAULT’s  ATTEMPTS  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO  . . . 431 

I.  DECLARATION  OF  FRANCISCO  J.  CAMPANA  . . . 435 

J.  EXPERIMENTS  BY  M.  PAUL  BERT  .....  437 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


The  drawings  were  made  by 

F.  Barnard,  A.  Corboold,  F.  Dadd,  W.  L.  Jones,  W.  E.  Lapworth,  W.  H.  Overend, 
P.  Skelton,  E.  Wagner,  E.  Wilson,  Joseph  Wolf,  and  Others  ; 
and  were  Engraved  on  Wood  by  Edward  Wuy.mper. 


FULL  PAGE  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


■ The  whirling  snow  mocked  our  efforts  ” (see  Chap.  XIV.)  Frontispiece. 

To  face  page  24 
64 


1. 

2.  Chimborazo,  from  the  slopes  above  Guaranda 

3.  Chimborazo,  from  a little  above  the  third  camp 

4.  “We  were  then  twenty  thousand  feet  high” 

5.  Ice-cliffs  under  the  summits  of  Chimborazo 

6.  Carried  on  the  litter  into  Ambato  .... 

7.  Cotopaxi  (19,613  feet),  from  the  Hacienda  of  S.  Rosario 

8.  Part  of  the  interior  of  the  crater  of  Cotopaxi 

9.  Part  of  the  exterior  of  the  crater  of  Cotopaxi 

10.  Antisana  (19,335  feet),  seen  from  the  IIacienda  . 

11.  “ They  dashed  in  amongst  them  and  threw  tiieir  lassos” 

12.  The  second  camp  on  Pichincha  (14,992  feet)  . 

13.  “ They  prowled  around  us  at  night,  and  left  their 

FOOTPRINTS  IN  THE  SNOW  ” 

14.  At  camp  on  the  Equator,  at  Corredor  Machai  . 

15.  Some  typical  Stone  Implements  collected  in  Ecuador  . 

16.  Examples  of  old  Indian  Pottery  collected  by  the  Author 

17.  “It  rolled  over  and  over  down  the  slope” 

18.  “The  sky  was  dark  with  the  clouds  of  ash” 

19.  The  Southern  Walls  of  Chimborazo  .... 

20.  Selections  from  the  bedroom  collection  at  Guayaquil 


68 

76 

90 

124 

147 

150 

190 

205 

209 

229 

242 

271 

279 

285 

326 

337 

391 


IN  THE  TEXT. 


1.  On  the  way  to  Bodegas 1 

2.  A young  person  of  Guayaquil 4 

3.  A house  at  Bodegas 5 

4.  At  La  Mona 7 

5.  A collector 9 

6.  Native  house  at  Guaranda 18 

7.  Crossing  the  Great  Arenal 19 

8.  Portrait  of  Alexander  von  Humboldt 28 

9.  The  chief  of  the  police 37 


XXIV 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE 

94.  The  Pyramid  of  Oyambaro,  in  1880  292 

95.  A stampede 296 

96.  At  camp  in  the  Valley  of  Collanes 305 

97.  The  bridge  of  Penipe 308 

98.  A THREATENED  ATTACK 310 

99.  Plan  of  camp 312 

100.  Carihuairazo,  from  the  south 317 

101.  The  fourth  camp  on  Chimborazo  (14,359  feet)  ....  318 

102.  Chimborazo,  from  the  north-north-west 320 

103.  Commencement  of  the  eruption  of  Cotopaxi,  July  3,  1880 . . 323 

104.  A Phasma  from  La  Dormida,  Cayambe 335 

105.  Humboldt's  triangle 340 

106.  Jean- Antoine  and  the  babies 344 

107.  Forceps  of  an  Earwig  from  Cayambe 354 

108.  Earwig  from  13,353  feet  on  Chimborazo 355 

109.  Pieris  xanthodice,  Lucas 357 

110.  A Moth  from  12.000  feet  on  Pichincha 358 

111.  Moths  from  14,500  feet  on  Cotocachi,  and  Summit  of  Pichincha  359 

112.  IIyalella  ixerhis,  S.  I.  Smith 361 

113.  CO  LI  AS  ALTICOLA,  GoDMAN  & SALVIN' 364 

114.  COLIAS  Dill  ERA,  DoUBL.  & II EW 364 

115.  A TROPICAL  DREAM 385 

116.  “We  came  again  into  the  land  of  butterflies”  . . . 388 

117.  Certificates  of  examination  of  Barometer  Xo.  558  . . . 397 

118.  Chimborazo,  from  Guayaquil 442 

MAPS,  ETC. 

1.  General  map  of  Ecuador,  Colombia,  &c.  . . . To  face  page  1 

2.  Plan  of  Quito,  after  Father  J.  B.  Menten  ...  ,,  167 


3.  Map  of  the  Province  of  Quito,  by  Don  Pedro  Maldonado.  At  end  of  vol. 

4.  Route  Map  to  illustrate  “Travels  amongst  the  Great  Andes.”  In  pocket. 


ERRATA. 

At  page  12,  note  1,  “ Villavicensio  ” should  read  “ Villavicencio.” 

„ „ 193,  note  3,  do.  do. 

,,  ,,  209,  note  1,  do.  do. 

„ „ 112,  note  1.  “Chap.  XII.”  should  read  “ Chap.  XIX.” 

„ „ 114,  note  1,  “ Chapters  VI,  XIII,  and  XV.”  should  read  “ Chapters  VI,  XIII, and  XIX.” 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES 


B tn  Tanq  idUi 


• Grt‘\rtown 


°utrto • Limon 


?SAy.lOSE^ 


MorroatfuiUo 


>C  oIoul 


anaiu; 


Savanilla 


(I’nntnB  § Peart  I* 


SohlJ/o 


Rentes  • 


Ibacjue 


, BOGOTA 


th  i ram  biraP., 


ftuenm'e 


G migrant  aJ’f' 


Sa/iZ, 


E.oium/tfr, 
C.  San  Frtmcisco(r 

Matiglan  /*. 
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lc|iiHtor 


»PICMINCHAa- 


QUITO^ 

Machncln  ° 


C Paxiufo 
Manta,  B. 

( S.Lort’nzo(Z^ii 
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S along  o IS 
S* Helena Ji.Y 


A NT  I SANA 


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Gulf  of  Guayaquil  g 


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Seckitra  It. 

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80’  Longitlirle  of  Oropii^vTclL 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  BODEGAS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

We  landed  at  Guayaquil  on  December  9,  1879,  after  an  un- 

eventful  voyage  across  the  Atlantic,  and  an  unexpected  deten- 
tion upon  the  Isthmus  of  Panama.1  Our  ship  had  scarcely 
anchored  before  a Custom  House  officer  sought  me  out,  to 

deliver  an  ornate  speech  ; which  commenced,  according  to  the 
manner  of  the  country,  with  declarations  that  he  himself,  his 
property,  and  other  things  besides  were  mine,  and  terminated 
with  the  welcome  intelligence  that  he  had  been  ordered  to  pass 
my  baggage  without  examination,  and  free  of  duty- 

Guayaquil  is  the  chief  port  of  the  Republic  of  the  Equator 

(Ecuador),  and  is  second  in  population  only  to  the  capital, 

Quito.2  In  1879,  it  was  a very  busy  place.  The  war  between 

1 See  The  Contemporary  Review,  March,  1889. 

2 It  appeared  to  me  to  have  about  28,000  inhabitants.  No  census  has,  I 
believe,  yet  been  taken  in  Ecuador.  All  statements  in  regard  to  the  population 
are  to  be  received  with  caution. 


B 


2 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  i. 


Peru  and  Chili  caused  a large  accession  of  trade,  and  filled  it 
with  a horde  of  refugees.  Lodgings  were  scarcely  to  be  had 
for  money,  and  services  were  difficult  to  procure.  Life  seemed 
too  easy  for  the  lower  orders  at  this  place.  At  very  trifling 
expense  they  can  breakfast  on  chocolate,  dine  on  bananas  and 
cocoa-nut,  and  fall  back  at  night  on  pine-apples.  Lodging  is 
not  a difficulty  with  them,  and  dress  is  almost  superfluous  in  a 
climate  so  equably  warm.  The  elders  go  about  in  very  light 
attire,  and  the  young  people  appear  in  the  streets  in  the  earliest 
mode  of  Eden.  "Workmen  set  an  exorbitant  value  on  their 
services,  and  the  very  labourers  expected  to  be  paid  at  the  rate 
of  little  English  Bishops. 

Not  much  was  wanting  to  perfect  our  arrangements.  Our 
principal  need  was  a third  man,  as  interpreter  and  general  assist- 
ant, and  it  was  supplied  by  Mr.  Perring,  an  Englishman  who 
had  lived  many  years  in  Ecuador,  and  had  frequently  acted  as 
Government  courier  between  Guayaquil  and  Quito.  This  matter 
settled,  there  was  time  to  look  about,  and  I betook  myself 
daily  to  the  highest  accessible  ground — a hill  at  the  northern 
end  of  the  town — to  endeavour  to  get  a view  of  the  Andes,  and 
especially  of  Chimborazo. 

Up  to  this  time  we  had  scarcely  had  a glimpse  of  the 
Andes.  On  the  first  half  of  the  voyage  from  Panama  our 
course  was  at  too  great  a distance  from  the  coast ; and,  on 
approaching  the  Equator,  although  the  nearer  parts  of  the  outer 
ranges  could  be  discerned,  their  tops  were  in  cloud,  and  the 
great  snow  - peaks  were  invisible.  Several  Captains  of  the 
Mail  Steamers,  who  had  long  experience,  said  that  they  had 
only  seen  Chimborazo  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  three  or  four 
occasions  in  the  course  of  thirteen  or  fourteen  years ; and  Mr. 
Chambers  told  me  that  the  mountain  was  not  commonly  seen 
at  Guayaquil  more  than  once  or  twice  a month. 

I proposed  to  make  my  way  to  Chimborazo  by  the  ordinary 
route  to  Quito,  vid  Bodegas  and  Guaranda.  From  Guayaquil 


CHAP.  I. 


SOME  SNAKE  STORIES. 


3 


to  Bodegas  one  takes  the  steamer,  up  the  Ctuayas,  and  for  the 
rest  of  the  way  transit  is  effected  by  horses,  mules,  or  donkeys. 
As  the  rainy  season  was  about  to  commence,  and  would  impede 
or  almost  stop  traffic  whilst  it  lasted,  there  was  an  unusual 
demand  for  baggage  animals,  and  it  was  expedient  to  arrange 
beforehand,  to  avoid  detention  at  Bodegas.  So  we  remained  at 
Guayaquil,  until  information  arrived  that  our  train  was  ready. 

Whilst  waiting  for  news  from  Bodegas,  I prowled  about  the 
outskirts  of  the  town  in  search  of  snakes,  being  desirous  of 
acquiring  the  handsome  and  venomous  “ Coral  ” which  had  not 
hitherto  been  acclimatized  in  Europe.1  I did  not  see  a live 
snake  of  any  sort  or  description  whilst  at  Guayaquil.  It  was 
the  end  of  the  dry  season,  and  they  had  gone  out  of  town  for 
a time  ; but  I understood  from  Mr.  Chambers  that  he  had  many 
Coral  snakes  on  his  property,  and  could  spare  a few  without 
inconvenience,  and  he  promised  to  have  a living  specimen  ready 
against  our  return  to  Guayaquil.2 

1 A few  years  ago,  a French  traveller — Mons.  Andr£ — made  an  endeavour  to 
introduce  it  from  Colombia.  His  specimen  arrived  alive  at  Lille,  where  the  French 
douaniers,  suspecting  contraband,  insisted  upon  opening  the  box  in  which  it  was 
secured.  The  snake  immediately  made  its  appearance,  to  take  a look  around,  and 
the  douaniers  retired.  It  then  walked  out,  and  disappeared,  and  was  heard  of  no 
more.  This,  according  to  M.  Andre,  was  the  first  attempt  to  introduce  the  Coral 
snake  iuto  Europe.  See  Le  Tour  du  Monde,  vol.  35,  p.  182,  Paris,  1878. 

* Unfortunately,  when  that  time  came,  they  were  too  shy  and  could  not  be 
caught.  Mr.  Chambers  was  good  enough  to  despatch  another  equally  venomous 
reptile  after  me,  to  soothe  my  disappointment.  The  following  sad  story,  how- 
ever, came  to  hand  instead  of  the  snake. 

It  seems  that  it  was  shipped  in  a box  by  one  of  the  Mail  Steamers,  and, 
being  regarded  with  suspicion,  was  placed  in  a boat  hanging  from  the  davits. 
In  the  course  of  the  voyage,  about  a dozen  little  snakes  made  their  debut,  and, 
after  crawling  through  a small  knot-hole  in  the  box,  wriggled  along  the  davits, 
and  thence  on  to  the  deck.  In  the  morning,  when  passengers  came  out  to 
exercise,  they  found  snakes  already  in  possession.  Quartermasters  were  set  to 
clear  them  out,  but  one  little  snake  managed  to  bite  the  second  officer,  and 
caused  his  arm  to  swell  so  much  that  he  had  to  be  taken  on  shore  at  Panama 
and  be  put  in  hospital.  No  one  would  venture  to  approach  the  box  with  the 
parent  snake.  The  plug  was  knocked  out  of  the  bottom  of  the  boat  and  it  was 


4 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  i. 


On  December  13  we  received  advice  that  our  animals  were 
ready,  and  left  Guayaquil  the  same  afternoon  on  board  the 
river-steamer  Quito,  with  a large  and  very  miscellaneous  freight,1 

and  arrived  about  midnight 
at  Bodegas.  Opposite  to 
Guayaquil  the  Guayas  is  a 
noble  river,  more  than  a 
mile  and  a quarter  across, 
with  good  depth  of  water. 
It  is  joined  just  above  the 
town  by  its  principal  tribu- 
tary, the  River  Daide,  and 
beyond  the  junction,  though 
remaining  fully  a mile  wide, 
it  becomes  shallow.  At  a 
distance  of  about  thirteen 
miles  N.N.E.  of  Guayaquil 
it  receives  the  waters  of  an- 
other important  tributary, 

A YOUNG  PERSON  OF  GUAYAQUIL. 

the  River  Yaguachi,  a stream 
which  is  formed  by  the  union  of  the  Chimbo  and  Chanchan. 
In  their  upper  courses,  these  rivers  are  only  mountain  torrents — 


lowered  into  the  sea.  The  box  floated  away  and  drifted  on  to  Flamenco  I.,  off 
Panama,  where  some  residents  fired  through  and  through  it  until  the  snake  was 
killed.  Mr.  Chambers  subsequently  received  a special  request  not  to  ship  any 
more  passengers  of  that  class. 

■ The  war  in  Peru  caused  an  exodus  of  Italian  organs  from  Lima,  and  thirty 
refugee  instruments  landed  at  Guayaquil  just  before  our  arrival.  Four  of  these 
were  on  board  the  Quito,  concentrated  on  the  fore  part  of  the  upper  deck,  each 
playing  a different  tune.  The  Ecuadorians  enjoyed  the  babel,  but  the  alligators 
in  the  river  seemed  more  sensitive.  They  came  up  and  stared  with  open  mouths, 
and  plunged  down  again  immediately,  out  of  hearing. 

The  Guayas  and  its  tributaries  are  full  of  alligators.  On  a trip  up  the  river  in 
July,  1880,  I saw  a large  sandbank  completely  covered  by  a horde  of  them,  lying 
peaceably  alongside  each  other.  The  natives  do  not  seem  to  be  troubled  by  their 
proximity,  though  it  is  admitted  they  do  occasionally  chew  incautious  children. 


CHAP.  I. 


BODEGAS  DE  BABAEOYO. 


5 


the  Chimbo  being  the  more  important  of  the  two,  and  taking  the 
drainage  of  the  whole  of  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Pacific  Range 
of  Ecuador,  and  of  the  western  slopes  of  the  great  block  of  mount- 
ains to  the  south  of  Chimborazo.  Above  the  junction  of  the 
Yaguachi  the  Guayas  becomes  narrower,  though  it  still  remains 
quite  2000  feet  across  for  some  miles  above  Zamborondon.  It 
then  branches  out  into  the  flat  land  in  numerous  canal-like  rami- 
fications, and  by  the  time  Bodegas  is  reached  dwindles  down  to 
insignificant  dimensions. 

Although  we  had  approached  more  closely  to  the  Andes  we 
still  saw  nothing  of  them.  On  the  lower  reaches  of  the  river 
this  was  not  to  be  wondered  at,  for  the  land  was  being  cleared 
by  firing,  prior  to  the  advent  of  the  rains,  and  clouds  of  smoke 
rose  thousands  of  feet  in  the  air,  obscuring  everything,  except 
the  banks  close  at  hand.  At  Bodegas  we  got  beyond  this  ; the 
sun  shone  brilliantly,  but  not  a sign  of  a mountain  could  be 
seen,  though  I shortly  found  that  we  were  less  than  thirty-five 
miles  from  summits  14-15,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Chimborazo, 
I was  told,  could  be  seen  from  Bodegas,  and  bore  from  that 
place  N.E.  by  E.,  or  thereabouts. 

The  town  of  Bodegas  de  Babahoyo  (called  for  brevity  Bodegas) 
contains  about  2000 
inhabitants.  It  is  the 
entrepot  of  Quito,  where 
goods  are  temporarily 
stored,  and  where  a 
number  of  agents  dwell 
whose  business  it  is  to 
receive  goods  from  the 
steamers  and  to  ar- 
range for  their  transit 
into  the  interior.  In 
the  rainy  season,  the 
river  rises  here  from 


A HOUSE  AT  BODEGAS. 


6 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES. 


CHAP.  I. 


30  to  35  feet,  and.  overflowing  its  banks,  tarns  the  country  into 
a vast  lake.  Hence  many  of  the  houses  in  this  district  are  built 

on  piles  or  posts.  The  area  over  which  the  floods  extend  is 

indicated  by  the  houses  that  are  constructed  in  this  manner. 

We  left  Bodegas  at  1.20  p.m.  on  December  14,  and  crossing 

by  a bridge  to  the  right  bank  of  the  river  commenced  the 

journey  over  some  open,  flat,  sandy  ground.  All  went  comfort- 
ably for  a time.  Jean-Antoine  Carrel  headed  the  caravan, 
mounted,1  carrying  one  of  the  mercurial  barometers  and  some 
other  instruments;  I followed,  similarly  equipped  ; then  came 
the  baggage  animals,  and  the  muleteers  (arrieros)  with  Louis 
and  Perring  brought  up  the  rear.  Just  one  hour  after  the  start, 
when  we  were  jogging  quietly  along,  the  leading  mule  suddenly 
became  possessed  by  ten  thousand  devils,  and  rushed  hither  and 
thither,  throwing  its  heels  high  in  the  air ; and  succeeding  in 
loosening  its  load,  which  turned  round  under  its  belly,  it  then 
commenced  a series  of  violent  fore  and  aft  movements  with  its 
hoofs,  to  try  to  pulverize  my  photographic  camera,  and  the  other 
things  which  it  carried. 

In  course  of  time  we  got  to  regard  such  episodes  as  a part 
of  the  daily  routine.  The  most  outrageous  performers  were 
generally  the  animals  with  the  lightest  loads  ; and,  unless  their 
extravagancies  were  promptly  checked,  their  example  became 
contagious,  and  the  whole  troop  scattered,  some  galloping  away, 
while  the  rest  engaged  themselves  in  madly  battering  their  loads 
with  the  intention  of  dislodging  them.  A load  on  the  Quito 
road  usually  weighs  more  than  300  lbs.,  and  we  jirobably  com- 
mitted a mistake  in  giving  our  beasts  too  little  to  carry  in  the 
low  country.2 

1 In  order  to  travel  quickly,  a considerable  part  of  my  baggage  was  sent  out 
in  advance,  and  was  placed  in  secure  hands  at  Guaranda  and  Quito.  I am 
much  indebted  to  Mr.  Theakston,  a forwarding  agent  at  Bodegas,  for  his  atten- 
tions there  and  at  other  places. 

2 All  my  cases  were  made  with  a view  to  transit  by  mules,  and  none  weighed 
more  than  75  lbs.  Two  of  these  and  a few  small  articles  were  allotted  to  each 


CHAP.  r. 


ALL  ALIVE. 


7 


We  made  a short  march  on  the  first  day,  and  stopped  about 
4 p.m.  at  the  little,  straggling  Tillage  La  Mona.  Our  house 
stood  on  posts,  and  like  most  others  in  this  neighbourhood  was 
built  of  bamboo,  and  was  thatched  with  leaves.  We  passed  the 
night,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  in  string  ham- 
mocks, which  were  slung  on  the  verandah  on  the  first  floor. 
Sleep  was  enlivened  by  superabundant  animal  life.  Bats  flapped 


AT  LA  MONA. 


our  faces,  and  thousands  of  insects  swarmed  down  upon  the 
candles,  while  scuttling  things  of  all  sorts  ranged  the  floor  and 
invaded  our  boots. 

A change  was  made  in  our  arrangements  next  day.  From 
this  time  onwards,  Jean-Antoine  took  charge  of  both  the  mer- 
curial barometers,  to  leave  me  free  to  attend  to  the  details  of 

animal.  Thus  our  loads  seldom  weighed  more  than  160  lbs.,  and  this  was  as 
much  as  was  good  at  great  elevations.  I saw  many  donkeys  on  the  Quito  road 
carrying  eight  dozens  of  wine  or  beer  in  four  cases.  Such  loads  cannot  have 
weighed  less  than  280  lbs. 


8 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES. 


CHAP.  I. 


the  caravan  whilst  passing  along  “the  Royal  Road.”  This  is 
the  title  which  has  been  given  for  many  generations  to  the 
route  from  Bodegas  to  Guaranda.  Although  republican  Ecua- 
dorians have  done  much  levelling,  and  amongst  other  things 
have  abolished  titles  of  nobility,  they  have  omitted  to  level 
their  roads,  and  cling  with  curious  tenacity  to  the  pompous 
title  of  this  primitive  track.  In  the  matter  of  mud  it  did  not 
come  up  to  expectations.  It  Avas  not  so  pre-eminently  filthy 
as  to  be  entitled  to  precedence  over  all  other  roads  in  this 
country ; though  it  certainly  was,  in  some  parts,  Avhat  Ecua- 
dorians call  ‘savoury/  The  mud  is  compounded  of  decaying 
animal  and  vegetable  matter,  churned  up  with  earth,  and  the 
product  is  a greasy  and  captivating  slime.  The  interesting 
series  of  ridges — termed  camellones — crossing  the  track  at  right 
angles  to  its  course,  are  generally  considered  by  travellers  to 
have  been  originated  by  the  regular  tread  of  animals.1  Typical 
examples  have  a furroAV  of  liquid  mud  upon  each  side  of  a ridge 
of  slippery  soil,  Avith  a difference  of  level  of  two  feet  or  more 
betAveeu  the  top  of  the  ridge  and  the  bottom  of  the  furroAvs ; 
and  man  and  beast  struggle  over  the  one  and  avuIIoav  in  the 
others  upon  this  grande  route  to  the  interior. 

The  traffic  at  this  time  Avas  considerable  both  upwards  and 
doAvnwards,  and  the  loads  Avere  often  very  miscellaneous  in  char- 
acter. Champagne  assorted  with  iron  bedsteads  seemed  to  travel 
Avell,  Avhile  sheets  of  corrugated  iron  laid  flat  across  the  backs 
of  donkeys  gave  rise  to  much  bad  language  in  narrow  places. 
Coming  doAvn  from  the  interior,  on  their  Avay  to  the  coast,  Ave 
met  numerous  teams,  often  tAventy  or  thirty  in  a troop,  bringing 
huge  bales  of  quinine  bark,  accompanied  by  gangs  of  unkempt 
i Though  they  are  maintained  and  deepened  by  the  tread  of  animals,  it  is 
questionable  if  they  were  originated  by  them.  Upon  some  new  road  which  was 
being  made  to  the  soutli  of  Otovalo,  1 noticed  furrows  being  dug,  and  there  were 
already  amongst  them  (without  the  assistance  of  traffic)  many  first-class  puddles, 
which  promised  to  make  this,  in  a short  time,  a worthy  continuation  of  “the 
Royal  Road.” 


CHAP.  I. 


A ROYAL  ROAD . 


9 


Indians,  who  humbly  doffed  their  hats  as  they  passed  by.  All 
dav  long,  in  front  or  behind,  there  could  be  heard  a subdued 
murmur  of  snortings,  braying,  smashing,  and  objurgation  ; and 
from  time  to  time,  at  fresh  bends  in  the  road,  another  caravan 
would  appear, — horned  cattle  doing  duty  as  well  as  horses,  asses, 
and  mules — the  exclamations  and  whip-cracking  became  louder,. 


A COLLECTOR. 


and  we  could  distinguish  the  cries  of  the  arrieros  — their 
‘ Burros  ! 3 and  * Burras  \ ’ ‘ Mula  ha  has,’  and  ‘ Cliolos,’  mingled 
with  many  ‘ Lados  ! ’ and  expressions  which  will  not  bear 
translation. 

For  most  of  the  way  from  Bodegas  to  Savaneta  the  Royal 
road  was  just  such  a beaten  track  as  mav  be  seen  on  many 
English  commons.  Xext  it  led  through  shady  jungle,  and  after 
Playas  was  passed  it  began  to  rise,  jungle  gradually  changed  to 
forest,  and  the  road  became  damp,  dirty,  and  confined.  When 

a gleam  of  sunlight  pierced  the  interlaced  branches,  we  could 

C 


10 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  i. 


see  the  great  Morphos  sailing  in  security  amongst  the  hooks 
and  spines  of  the  tropical  vegetation,  and  epiphytal s thriving  in 
gloom  on  stagnant  air.  But  we  could  not  tarry,  for  the  rains 

had  already  commenced,  and  every  one  advised  us  to  press  on.1 

The  second  night  found  us  at  Munapamba.  a regular  stopping- 
place.  1337  feet  above  the  sea.  where  a hut,  called  a Tambo, 
was  surrounded  by  a motley  throng  of  beasts,  and  bipeds  who 

were  practising  the  revolting  habit  that  is  referred  to  more  par- 

ticularly in  Chapter  IV. : and  we  passed  an  uneasy  night  in  the 
open  air  upon  plank  beds,  which  were  the  only  couches  known 
at  this  establishment. 

At  7 a.m.,  on  Dec.  10.  we  left  the  tambo,  and  crossed  to  the 
right  bank  of  a little  stream,  called  the  S.  Jorge  River.  The 
Andes  were  still  invisible,  although  we  were  actually  upon  their 
lower  slopes.  Everything  was  enveloped  in  mist,  and  a few 

1 In  consequence  of  having  been  detained  for  ten  days  upon  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama,  we  only  just  escaped  the  coast  wet  season.  The  intention  to  collect 
en  route  was  abandoned,  as  we  were  constantly  warned  by  persons  we  met  on  the 
road  that  rain  was  falling  heavily  on  the  mountains. 

Amongst  the  few  species  secured  on  the  first  day’s  journey,  there  have  been 
found  an  undescribed  Ant  (Campoitolus),  a Bug  ( Pno/iinnus),  and  two  Beetles 
( Epitnujius  and  Prionoralus).  These  are  described  and  figured  in  the  Supplementary 
Appendix  which  is  published  simultaneously  with  this  volume. 

The  Prionovalm  that  is  described  by  Mr.  H.  W.  Bates  under  the  name  P. 
triyoiioilrx  was  picked  up  close  to  I.a  Mona.  It  is  one  of  the  larger  of  known 
beetles,  and  being  the  finest  we  got  during  the  day  I looked  at  it  attentively 
while  putting  if  into  alcohol.  It  gathered  its  limbs  together,  and  appeared  to 
expire  almost  instantaneously,  without  a struggle.  The  same  happened  with 
nearh  everything  that  was  obtained  in  Ecuador,  with  lizards,  frogs,  fish,  etc., 
as  well  as  with  insects. 

The  genus  Prwiwcalius  was  founded  by  Adam  White  upon  specimens  received 
from  Mexico.  It  has  also  been  found  in  Peru,  and  some  years  ago  Mr.  Water- 
house  described  a fine  species  from  Ecuador  (locality  unknown,  but  supposed  to 
have  been  on  the  eastern  or  Amazonian  side  of  the  Andes)  under  the  name 
P.  Bnckleyi,  from  specimens  collected  by  the  late  Mr.  Buckley.  I obtained  P. 
Buckley i at  the  height  of  about  4000  feet  on  the  Royal  road,  and  subsequently, 
through  a collector,  a third  species  of  the  genus,  which  was  takeD  at  the  height 
of  about  6000  feet,  in  the  country  to  the  west  of  Quito. 


CHAP.  I. 


THE  HOTEL  ON  THE  HILL. 


11 


hundred  yards  was  the  most  one  could  see  in  any  direction. 
The  path  rose  more  steeply  and  continuously  than  upon  passes 
which  are  commonly  traversed  by  mules  in  the  Alps,  and 
degenerated  as  we  ascended.  It  became  a mere  rut,  hollowed 
out  on  the  face  of  the  mountain,  without  provision  for  drainage, 
and  was  left  entirely  to  take  care  of  itself.  Earth  that  fell  on 
to  it  from  the  banks  at  the  side  was  trodden  into  the  general 
filth.  If  pools  accumulated,  there  they  remained.  Animals 
dying  en  route  were  left  to  rot,  and  were  not  removed.  We 
passed  two  disabled  mules,  stuck  fast,  abandoned  to  their  fate. 

In  two  hours  from  Mufiapamba  we  arrived  at  the  village  of 
Balsabamba,  and  after  a brief  halt  continued  the  steep  ascent  ; 
soon  after  noon  entering  the  zone  where  rain  had  been  falling 
during  the  last  eight  days,  and  then  every  one  pressed  forward 
to  seek  the  nearest  shelter,  at  Tambo  Loma.  Whilst  toiling  up 
the  greasy  zigzags,  we  were  overtaken  by  a genial  man,  made 
up  of  straps  and  buckles,  who  was  riding  extra-post  to  Quito, 
and  were  guided  by  him  across  the  quagmire  that  surrounded 
the  Hotel  on  the  Hill  to  the  principal  apartment,  a window- 
less den  about  nine  feet  square  and  six  feet  high.  There  was 
neither  bed  nor  bedding,  food  nor  firing  at  this  place.1  We 
slept  on  our  packing-cases. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  we  quitted  Tambo  Loma  soon 
after  daybreak,  piloted  by  the  friendly  courier.  The  muleteers 
said  that  the  road  was  nearly  impassable,  and  during  a rise  of 
3000  feet  we  found  it  a morass,  a sea  of  mud,  into  which  our 
animals  sank  up  to  their  knees  or  deeper.  At  length,  when  a 
little  less  than  10,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  we  gradu- 
ally topped  the  mists,  and  obtained  our  first  view  in  the  Andes. 

1 An  Ecuadorian  tambo  is  meant  to  give  shelter  to  drovers  and  mule-drivers. 
These  classes  commonly  carry  food  with  them,  for  economy,  and  are  content  to 
sleep  in  pig-styes.  The  tambo  meets  their  requirements,  and  seldom  contains 
accommodation  or  food  for  the  few  others  who  travel  in  Ecuador.  At  La  Mona 
we  put  up  at  a private  house.  Savaneta,  Playas.  Mufiapamba,  and  Balsabamba  are 
recognized  stopping-places,  and  have  tambos. 


12 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES. 


CHAP.  I. 


In  a dim  way,  we  could  make  out  the  buttress  on  which 

Tambo  Loma  was  placed  ; but,  although  overlooking  the  mists, 
we  could  see  neither  the  tambo,  nor  Munapamba  at  the  bottom 
of  the  valley,  the  flat  land,  the  Pacific,  nor  anything  to  the  west 
except  mist, — light  and  thin  above,  dense  and  black  below. 
Towards  the  east  it  was  nearly  clear.  A few  hundred  feet 

above  us,  our  road  led  to  a gap,  or  pass  in  the  mountains.  We 
made  at  once  for  this  place,  and  in  a few  minutes  left  the 
steaming  Pacific  slopes  behind,  and  passed,  as  it  were,  into 
another  world.  The  view  from  this  place  was  a revelation. 

From  Bodegas  until  our  arrival  at  this  spot  we  had  not 

been  able  to  see  as  much  as  a mile  in  any  direction.  We 

passed  through  forest ; the  track  constantly  rose  ; the  barometers 
told  us  we  were  getting  high  ; but  in  what  direction  our  road 
would  lead,  whether  it  would  keep  to  the  east,  north-east,  or 
south-east,  was  not  known.  From  the  existing  maps  of  Ecuador1 
it  did  not  appear  that  any  important  mountains  intervened 
between  Gruaranda  and  the  coast,  and  until  this  moment  I had 
supposed  that  the  western  slopes  of  Chimborazo  led  continuously 
towards  the  Pacific.  For  the  best  authority  upon  this  parti- 
cular district,  Mr.  Richard  Spruce,  says,  “On  the  western  side” 
(of  Chimborazo)  “ 1 can  find  no  positive  break  from  the  summit 
down  to  the  plain.  There  is  no  intervening  salient  peak,  and 
no  ridge  whose  origin  may  not  be  traced  to  the  peak  of  Chim- 

1 Namely,  the  map  by  Don  Pedro  Maldonado,  the  map  in  La  Condamine’s 
Voyage,  and  the  map  accompanying  the  work  Geografia  cle  la  Republica  del 
Ecuador,  by  Manuel  Villavicensio,  New  York,  1858.  In  the  portion  of  the 
Maldonado  map  that  I have  reproduced  (which  is  placed  at  the  end  of  this 
volume),  it  will  be  seen  there  is  no  suggestion  of  an  important  range  of  mount- 
ains to  tlie  immediate  west  of  Chimborazo  and  the  valley  of  the  R.  Chimbo, 
and  in  several  places,  notably  just  north  of  the  words  R.  Yaguachi,  the  map 
suggests  flat,  forest-covered  land.  On  the  map  of  La  Condamine  this  district  has 
evidently  been  copied  from  Maldonado,  and  some  of  the  hill-work  given  by  the 
latter  authority  is  abolished,  making  the  land  appear  flatter  still : and  in  the 
Villavicensio  map  this  process  is  still  further  carried  out,  ami  there  appears  to  be 
nothing  except  unimportant  hills  between  Guayaquil  and  Chimborazo. 


CHAP.  I. 


THE  PACIFIC  RANGE  OF  ECUADOR. 


13 


borazo.  ” 1 In  this  matter  he  is,  however,  incorrect.  It  is  more 
convenient  to  give  at  this  point  all  that  need  be  said  on  the 
subject  than  to  recur  to  it  again. 

The  place  where  our  road  crossed  the  mountains  was  a true 
pass,  leading  through  a gap,  from  the  head  of  one  valley  on  the 
western  to  another  on  the  eastern  side  of  a large  and  important 
range  of  mountains.  Two  small  huts  on  its  summit  were 
termed  Tambo  Gobierno.2  I read  the  two  mercurial  barometers 
here  at  10  a.m.,  and  there  was  a nearly  corresponding  (11  a.m.) 
observation  by  Mr.  Chambers  at  Guayaquil,  and  from  these 
observations  it  appears  that  the  height  of  Tambo  Gobierno  is 
10,417  feet.  A short  distance  from  us,  both  to  the  north  and 
to  the  south,  there  were  points  from  1000  to  1500  feet  higher  ; 
and  to  the  north,  I found  subsequently,  the  general  elevation  of 
the  range  increased,  and  that  there  were  a number  of  summits 
13  - 14,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  — some,  I believe, 
closely  approaching  the  height  of  15,000  feet.  The  general 
elevation  diminishes  when  proceeding  southwards,  though  it  re- 
mains considerable  to  its  furthest  extremity,  where  the  River 
Chimbo,  suddenly  changing  from  a nearly  north  and  south 
course  to  an  east  and  west  one,  skirts  its  base.  At  this  end, 
the  slopes  rise  abruptly  from  a few  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  to  7-8000  feet,  and  are  magnificently  wooded. 

On  December  19  and  2G,  when  proceeding  from  Guaranda 
to  Chimborazo,  I had  unclouded  views  of  the  eastern  side  of  this 
range  ; and  from  December  27  to  January  12,  whilst  encamped 
upon  Chimborazo,  I commanded  and  looked  down  upon  the 
eastern  side  of  the  whole  of  the  northern  part  of  it.  In  the 
following  July,  whilst  making  the  circuit  of  Chimborazo,  I saw 
that  that  mountain  was  everywhere  well  separated  from  the 

1 See  page  7 of  his  Report  on  the  expedition  to  procure  seeds  and  plants  of  the 
Cinchona  succirubra,  or  Red  Bark • Tree , London,  1861. 

2 They  contained  accommodation  for  neither  man  nor  beast,  and  nothing 
edible  except  one  very  shrivelled,  old  Indian  woman. 


14 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  i. 


range  on  its  west ; and  subsequently,  after  skirting  the  great 
block  of  mountains  to  the  south  of  Chimborazo,  I came  upon 
the  range  again  at  the  Bridge  of  Chimbo,  passed  around  its 
southern  extremity,  and  saw  its  western  slopes  at  that  end 
dying  out  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Barraganetal.  They  also 
extend  as  far  as  Munapamba.  Its  northern  extremity,  and 
north-western  slopes,  I have  not  seen  at  all.  The  range  has, 
however,  an  ascertained  length  from  north  to  south  of  G5  miles, 
and  is  in  breadth  18  to  20  miles — that  is  to  say,  it  is  at  least 
twice  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  range  of  Mont  Blanc. 

The  range  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  valley  of  the 
River  Chimbo,  and  the  course  of  this  valley  is  well  seen  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Guaranda.  To  the  north  of  that  town  it 
opens  out  into  a very  large  basin,  which  receives  the  whole  of 
the  drainage  of  the  western  side  of  Chimborazo.  South  of 
Guaranda,  the  valley  for  a long  distance  runs  north  and  south. 
At  Guaranda  the  river  is  8530  feet,  and  at  Chimbo  (formerly 
called  the  Bridge  of  Chimbo),  according  to  the  Railway  authorities, 
it  is  1130  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  These  facts  suffi- 
ciently show  that  Chimborazo  itself,  and  the  great  massif  of 
which  it  is  the  culminating  point,  are  separated  by  a large  and 
profound  valley  from  the  range  of  which  1 have  spoken ; and, 
as  this  range  is  not  yet  known  by  any  distinctive  appellation, 
I propose  to  call  it  the  Pacific  Range  of  Ecuador.1 

At  Tambo  Gobierno  we  passed  as  it  were  into  another 
world.  The  slopes  of  the  Pacific  Range  were  densely  wooded 
right  up  to  their  crests  on  the  side  facing  the  Ocean,  while  their 
eastern  ones  were  almost  absolutely  bare  of  vegetation.  In  a few 
hundred  yards  the  track  lost  its  royal  character,  and  on  the 
other  side  of  the  ridge  became  as  dry  as  the  Sahara.  A good, 
made  road  down  a steep  lateral  valley  led  us  through  the 

i The  stream  near  Chimbo  marked  Agua  Clara  on  my  map,  is  a mountain 
torrent  gushing  out  of  the  southernmost  extremity  of  the  Pacific  Range,  and  now 
supplies  Guayaquil  with  water. 


CHAP.  I. 


MA  PS  OF  ECUADOR. 


15 


village  of  S.  Miguel  to  the  larger  one  of  S.  Jose,  where  we 
halted  for  food  ; and  we  then  pushed  on  in  advance  of  our 
caravan,  arriving  just  before  nightfall  at  the  small  town  of 
Guaranda,  the  place  which  I intended  to  use  as  a base  for 
attack  upon  Chimborazo.1 


XOTE  UPON-  THE  MAPS  OP  ECUADOR. 

Most  modern  maps  of  Ecuador  are  based  upon  those  of  M. 
de  la  Condamine  and  Don  Pedro  Maldonado.  The  former  of 
these,  on  a scale  of  about  nineteen  geographical  miles  to  an 
inch,  was  published  in  1751,  at  Paris,  in  the  work  Journal  du 
voyage  fait  par  ordre  du  roi  a l’Equateur,  servant  d 'introduction 
historique  a la  mesure  des  trois  premiers  degres  du  meridiem 
and  was  entitled  Carte  de  la  Province  de  Quito  an  Perou, 
dressee  sur  les  Observations  astronomiques,  Mesures  geographiques, 
Journaux  de  route  et  Memoires  de  Mr  de  la  Condamine,  et  sur 
ceux  de  Don  Pedro  Maldonado.  Par  Mr  d’Anville  de  l’Acad. 
linperiale  de  Petersbourg. 

1 I give  below  our  times  between  the  several  places  which  have  been  mentioned. 
A single  horseman,  or  a pedestrian,  would  not  occupy  so  long,  more  especially 
if  proceeding  in  the  reverse  direction.  Bodegas  to  La  Mona,  2 hours  40  min.; 
La  Mona  to  Savaneta,  2 hs.  : Savaneta  to  Playas,  2 hs. ; Playas  to  Munapamba, 
4 hs. ; Munapamba  to  Balsabamba,  2 hs. ; Balsabamba  to  Tambo  Loma,  3 hs. 
30  min. ; Tambo  Loma  to  Tambo  Gobierno,  2 hs.  45  min.  ; Tambo  Gobierno  to 
8.  Jose  de  Chirnbo,  2 hs.  30  min. ; and  thence  to  Guaranda,  3 hours. 

The  following  shade  temperatures  were  observed,  in  the  open  air  : — 


Dec. 

14. 

La  Mona  .... 

83°  Faht.  at  8 p.m. 

11 

15. 

do.  .... 

72°  ,,  ,,  4 a.m. 

11 

„ 

do.  .... 

74°  ,,  ,,  7 ,, 

11 

11 

Playas  .... 

78’5  .,  .,  noon. 

11 

10. 

Munapamba  (1337  feet) 

70°  ,,  ,,  6.45  a.m. 

11 

,, 

Tambo  Loma  (6850  ,,  ) 

62\5  ,,  ,,  7 p.m. 

„ 

ir. 

do.  .... 

59  5 ,,  ,,  4 a.m. 

11 

„ 

do.  .... 

60°  ,,  5.30  a.m. 

11 

,, 

Tambo  Gobierno  (10,417  feet) 

60°  ,,  ,,  10  a.m. 

„ 

S.  Jose  de  Chirnbo  (8200  ,,  ) 

65°  ,,  ,,  1.45  p.m. 

16 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES. 


CHAP.  I. 


The  latter  map,  in  four  sheets,  on  a scale  of  about  twelve 
geographical  miles  to.  an  inch,  extending  from  2°  X.  Lat.  to  6° 
S.  Lat,,  was  published  in  Paris  in  1750,  under  the  title  Carta 
de  la  Provincia  de  Quito  y de  sus  adjacentes.  Obra  posthuma 
de  Don  Pedro  Maldonado,  Gentilhombre  de  la  Camara  de  8. 
Mag.  y Governador  de  la  Prov.  de  Esmeraldas.  lleeha  sobre 
las  Observaciones  Astronomicas  y Geograficas  de  los  Academicos 
Reales  de  las  Ciencias  de  Paris  y de  las  Guardias  Mar.  de 
Cadiz  y tambien  de  los  RR.  PP.  Missioneros  de  Maynas.  En 
que  la  Costa  desde  la  Boca  de  Esmeraldas  hasta  Tumaco  con 
la  Derrota  de  Quito  al  Maranon,  por  una  senda  de  a pie  de 
Banos  a Canelos,  y el  curso  de  los  Rios  Bobonaya  y Pastaya  van 
delineados  sobre  las  proprias  demarcaciones  del  difunto  Autor. 
Sacada  a luz  por  orden,  y a expensas  de  su  Magestad.  m.dccl. 

These  two  maps  were  constructed  from  the  same  material, 
and  (although  differing  in  some  matters  of  detail)  are  nearly 
identical.  In  M.  de  la  Condamine's  Journal  du  Voyage  frequent 
reference  is  made  to  Maldonado  (see  vol.  1.  pp.  110,  141-2,  and 
208-210)  and  to  his  share  in  the  production  of  these  maps.  In 
general,  the  central  portion  of  the  region  which  is  represented 
is  based  upon  the  work  of  the  Academicians,  whilst  the 
remainder  is  largely  due  to  Maldonado.  Two  different  classes 
of  work,  of  very  different  degrees  of  value,  have  been  embodied  ; 
namely  (1)  triangulation  of  the  most  precise  character,  starting 
from  a long  and  carefully-measured  base,  checked  by  a base  of 
verification  : and  (2)  surveys  of  the  rougher  kinds,  made  by  the 
less  accurate  methods. 

La  Condamine  says  that  Maldonado  was  a “ creole  du  Perou.” 
He  was  for  some  time  Governor  of  the  district  of  Esmeraldas, 
and  devoted  himself  to  discovering  a more  direct  road  to  Quito 
from  the  Pacific  than  that  via  Guayaquil,  which  was  then,  as 
it  is  still,  the  route  in  general  use.  He  succeeded  in  doing 
so.  and  concurrently  made  extensive  topographical  observations. 
Afterwards,  in  company  with  La  Condamine,  he  descended  the 


CHAl*.  I. 


DON  PEDRO  MALDONADO. 


17 


Amazons,  and  assisted  in  the  survey  of  that  river,  and  then 
proceeded  to  Europe  to  introduce  his  new  way  from  Panama  to 
Quito  to  notice  in  Spain.  He  went  to  Paris  to  superintend  the 
production  of  his  map  ; and,  after  other  travels,  came  to  London, 
and  died  there  of  fever  on  Nov.  17,  1748,  aged  about  forty 
years.  He  had  been  elected  a Corresponding  Member  of  the 
French  Academy  of  Sciences,  and  at  the  time  of  his  death  was 
about  to  be  proposed  at  the  Royal  Society. 

In  constructing  the  Route  Map  which  accompanies  and 
illustrates  this  volume  I have  put  the  maps  of  La  Condamine 
and  Maldonado  entirely  on  one  side,  and  have  commenced  afresh. 
1 have  used  the  Latitudes  of  La  Condamine  for  Quito  and 
Riobamba,  and  have  adopted  79°  52'  27"  W.  as  the  Longitude 
of  Guayaquil.  The  details  have  been  filled  in  from  my  own 
observations  (principally  angles  taken  with  a transit  theodolite) 
except  such  courses  of  rivers  as  are  given  in  dotted  lines. 
Many  of  my  names  will  not  be  found  in  earlier  maps,  and  in 
the  positions  both  of  towns  and  mountains  I frequently  differ 
from  my  predecessors.  As  nearly  every  town,  village  or  inn  is 
given  on  the  route  from  Guayaquil  to  Quito,  this  route  map 
may  be  found  of  some  service  by  persons  travelling  between  the 
coast  and  the  capital. 

The  Map  of  Chimborazo  has  been  constructed  from  my  own 
observations  by  Mr.  Turnbull  under  Mr.  Bolton's  direction  at 
Stanford’s  Geographical  Establishment.  Its  scale  depends  upon 
a measurement  made  on  the  Quito  road,  between  Chuquipoquio 
and  Mocha. 

The  Plan  of  the  Glacier  de  Debris  on  Chimborazo  has  been 
constructed  by  myself  from  my  own  observations,  and  its  scale 
depends  upon  a base  of  600  feet  which  I measured  below  our 
Second  Camp,  upon  the  western  side  of  the  glacier. 

I have  thought  it  desirable  for  the  further  illustration  of  my 
narrative,  and  for  comparison,  to  give  in  fac-simile  the  central 
portion  of  the  Maldonado  map.  This  has  been  reproduced  from 

D 


IS 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  i. 


tlie  copy  in  the  Map  Room  of  the  British  Museum.  The  road 
by  which  the  Governor  of . Esmeraldas  hoped  to  benefit  his 
country  ( camino  nueve  de  Quito)  will  be  seen  indicated  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Equator,  leading  from  Nono  to  the  Rio 
Blanco  (a  branch  of  the  R.  Esmeraldas).  It  has  never  come 
into  general  use.  Mr.  Stevenson  was  deputed  in  1809  to  re- 
examine it.  and  he  reported  favourably  (see  Historical  and 
descriptive  narrative  of  twenty  years’  residence  in  South  America, 
by  \V.  B.  Stevenson,  Bond.,  1829,  vol.  2,  pp.  355-7,  etc.)  : but 
down  to  the  present  time  the  circuitous  route  via  Guayaquil 
has  been  preferred. 


NATIVE  HOUSE  AT  GUARANDA. 


CROSSING  THE  GREAT  A RENAL. 


CHAPTER  II. 

FROM  GUARAXDA  TO  THE  FIRST  CAMP  OX  CHIMBORAZO. 

The  town  of  Guaranda  seemed  very  lifeless,  although  it  had 
about  2000  inhabitants,  and  I ventured  to  remark  to  an  assistant 
at  the  inn1  that  it  appeared  dull,  meaning  that  there  was  an 
absence  of  trade  and  traffic.  “ It  is,  your  Excellency,”  said  the 
dirty  waiter,  “ it  is  deplorably  dull  ; but  to-night  some  choice 
spirits  will  come  in,  and  will  hick  up  a delightful  roiv.”  His 
master  remains  in  my  recollection  as  a person  of  unusual  candour. 
There  had  been  some  difficulties  over  an  account  that  he  had 
presented  to  the  representative  of  a foreign  power  just  before 
our  arrival,  but  he  tendered  no  paltry  excuses,  and  roundlv 
declared  that  Consuls,  Ministers,  and  all  that  sort  of  thing  must 

1 At  this  place  there  was  an  inn,  where  meals  could  be  had.  The  beds  were 
objectionable,  and  the  apartments  were  filthy.  We  passed  the  night  in  the  open 
gallery  on  our  packing-cases,  and  on  Dec.  18  transferred  ourselves  to  a house  which 
I engaged  during  our  stay. 


20 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ii. 


pay  double,— a fact  which  members  of  the  diplomatic  service 
will  do  well  to  remember  when  they  pass  his  way. 

Guaranda  had  been  fixed  upon  as  headquarters  for  a time 
because  it  was  reported  to  be  nearer  to  Chimborazo  than  any 
other  town  or  village.  The  road  to  Quito  leads  through  it,  and 
passes  over  the  southern  extremity  of  the  mountain,  across  a 
plain  called  “ the  Great  Arenal.”  The  highest  point  of  this  was 
commonly  estimated  to  be  about  14, 000. feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  We  were  therefore  assured  of  being  able  to  transport 
our  baggage  to  that  elevation  without  calling  upon  the  natives 
to  do  anything  unusual.  How  much  higher  we  should  be  able 
to  utilize  them  depended  upon  the  nature  of  the  lower  slopes ; 
and  as  we  had  no  information  about  them,  and  did  not  know 
how  far  we  were  from  the  mountain,  we  set  out  at  4.30  a.m. 
on  the  19th  to  reconnoitre. 

It  will  seem  almost  incredible  that  we  should  have  approached 
so  closely  to  Chimborazo  without  obtaining  a glimpse  of  it. 
Prescott  says1  it  affords  a magnificent  prospect  to  the  mariner 
on  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  was  invisible  from  the  Pacific,  and 
also  at  Guayaquil,  at  Bodegas,  Tambo  Gobierno,  and  Guaranda, 
though  at  all  those  places  we  were  informed  that  it  might,  could, 
or  should  be  seen  ; and  upon  the  19th,  if  we  had  not  been  aware 
that  we  actually  touched  its  lower  slopes,  we  might  have  gone 
past  it  without  entertaining  a suspicion  that  we  were  underneath 
a mountain  of  first-class  magnitude,  notably  loftier  than  anything 
in  its  vicinity. 

Upon  leaving  Guaranda  there  was  a sharp  descent  to  the 
River  Chimbo,  which  was  crossed  by  a bridge  360  feet  below 
the  level  of  the  town,  and  the  road  then  mounted  by  a pretty 
regular  incline  along  the  slopes  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley, 
and  gradually  bore  away  from  the  river.  At  5.35  a.m.  it  was 
light  enough  to  see  comfortably,  and  by  6.30  we  were  nearly 
11,000  feet  above  the  sea.  At  this  elevation  we  made  a short 

1 History  of  the  Conquest  of  Peru , Book  I.,  chap.  i. 


CHAP.  II. 


THE  GREAT  ARENAL. 


21 


halt  to  look  at  the  mountains  to  the  west.  Many  of  the  nearer 
ones  were  considerably  higher  than  our  jiosition,  and  as  we  rose 
fresh  tops  kept  coming  into  view,  shewing  the  extent  and 
importance  of  this  hitherto  ignored  Pacific  Range.1 

The  first  part  of  the  road  to  the  Arenal  was  a fairly  good 
mountain-path,  left,  as  elsewhere,  to  take  care  of  itself.  Higher 
up  it  became  slimy,  and  our  pace  was  reduced,  especially  amongst 
some  first-class  camellones  near  the  top  of  the  pass.  On  the  last 
two  hundred  feet  the  track  disappeared,  and  every  one  followed 
the  way  that  seemed  best  over  the  steep,  sandy  slope.  The 
immediate  summit  was  a rounded  ridge  of  sand,  and  when  this 
was  crossed  the  Great  Arenal  came  into  sight,  sloping  at  first 
very  slightly  and  afterwards  more  abruptly  towards  the  north- 
east, and  stretching  uninterruptedly  to  the  base  of  Chimborazo. 

Under  the  guidance  of  our  arriero  we  made  for  the  Tarnbo 
of  Tortorillas  (12, 828), 2 the  only  place  of  refuge  between  Guaranda 
and  Chimborazo  except  a wooden  shed  at  the  place  marked 
Ensillada.  The  tambo  was  too  filthy  to  enter,"  and  we  went  a 
few  hundred  yards  aside,  and  sitting  on  a grassy  knoll  looked 
towards  our  mountain.  Clouds  hung  about  the  whole  of  the 
upper  part,  and  we  could  not  anywhere  see  up  to  the  snow-line. 


' Between  11,000  and  12,500  feet  the  vegetation  on  the  banks  by  the  roadside 
was  rather  unusually  attractive.  I collected  an  Eryngxum ; several  species  of 
Gaultheria  ( Qaultheria  near  conferta,  Benth.,  G.  Pichinchensis,  Benth.,  and  another); 
Bidem  ha  mil  is,  II.B.K.  (widely  distributed  in  Ecuador);  Druha  grandiflora,  Ilook. 
and  Am.  ; Hypericum  ( Benth  ys)  slrutheolce folium,  Juss.  ; Castilleia  fissifolia,  L.  ; 
C/uetagastcr  stricta,  D.C.  ; a Calceolaria,  a Geranium,  etc.  etc. 

The  Botanical  Collections  made  on  this  journey  have  been  worked  out  at  the 
Botanical  Department  of  the  British  Museum  under  the  personal  direction  of  Mr. 
Wm,  Garruthers,  F.R.S.,  to  whom  I offer  my  best  thanks  for  his  attentions  and 
courtesy. 

2 This  place,  as  well  as  all  others  mentioned,  will  be  found  upon  the  large 
map  accompanying  this  volume. 

3 It  was  composed  of  one  room,  which  was  kitchen  and  everything  else.  One 
of  the  foulest  tainbos  in  Ecuador — the  courtyard  a sea  of  mud.  Obtained  potato 
soup,  bread,  and  chocolate  here. 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ii. 


22 

The  buttresses  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Tortorillas  were  very 
steep,  and  came  to  sudden  terminations  on  the  sandy  plain. 
The  vallons,  however,  between  them  were  moderately  inclined, 
and  we  heard  that  mules  frequently  went  up  one  of  them  to 
fetch  ice,  which  was  cut  for  sale  in  Guayaquil.  It  was  clear 
that  we  should  be  able  to  take  natives  about  2000  feet  above 
Tortorillas,  or  to  about  15,000  feet  above  the  sea. — how  much 
higher  could  not  be  said. 

Having  learnt  this,  and  obtained  a notion  of  the  position  of 
Chimborazo,  we  returned  in  the  course  of  the  evening  to  Gua- 
randa,1  and  on  the  next  day,  the  mountain  still  remaining  invisible, 
made  the  acquaintance  of  the  very  thin  upper  crust  of  the  town, 
which  was  composed  of  the  official  termed  the  • Jefo-politico,’ 
the  Commissary  of  Police,  and  the  Priest : and  discovered  on  the 
other  side  of  our  courtyard  a pretty  Spanish  girl,  with  lustrous 
black  eyes,  who  captivated  the  Carrels  — bv  peeling  their  potatoes. 

The  Jefo-politico,  Sefior  Don  Dario  Montenegro,  Lieut. -Col. 
in  the  Ecuadorian  army,  and  Senor  Don  J.  Pazmino,  Commissary 
of  Police,  made  themselves  agreeable.  We  exchanged  visits,  and 
I found  that  they  knew  more  about  my  intentions  than  I did 
myself.  A few  days  later  they  gave  me  another  call,  evidently 
with  something  upon  their  minds,  though  I could  not  perceive 
what  was  the  object  of  the  interview.  At  length  the  principal 
official  thus  addressed  me.  “ Senor,  we  understand  perfectly, 
that  in  an  affair  like  yours,  it  is  necessary  to  dissemble, — a little  ; 

1 Whilst  returning,  I was  overcome  with  dizziness,  feverishness,  and  intense 
headache,  and  had  to  be  supported  by  two  of  my  people  part  of  the  way.  Owing 
to  this,  we  occupied  as  long  in  returning  as  in  ascending.  I took  30  grains  of 
sulphate  of  quinine  in  the  course  of  the  night,  and  was  covered  up  with  a mount- 
ain of  blankets,  and  in  the  morning  became  all  right  again. 

Left  Guaranda  4.30  a.m.  Stopped  30  min.  en  route.  Arrived  at  the  top  of 
the  Great  Arenal  10.35  a.m.,  and  at  Tortorillas  11.45  a.m.  Left  Tortorillas 
1 p.m..  and  arrived  at  Guaranda  8.30  p.m.  I estimate  the  distance  to  Tortor- 
illas and  back  at  35  miles. 

At  ti  a.m.  the  shade  temp,  in  the  open  air  was  45°  Faht.  At  7.45  a.m.,  40° ; 
at  10.35  a m.  (summit  of  Arenal),  53°;  and  at  Tortorillas,  at  mid-day,  56°'5. 


CHAP.  II. 


TOO  SPECULATIVE. 


23 


and  von.  doubtless,  do  quite  right  to  say  that  you  intend  to 
ascend  Chimborazo, — a thing  that  everybody  knows  is  perfectly 
impossible.  We  know  very  well  what  is  your  object ! You  wish 
to  discover  the  treasures  which  are  buried  in  Chimborazo,  and. 
no  doubt,  there  is  much  treasure  buried  there  : and  we  hope  you 
will  discover  it ; but  we  hope,  when  you  have  discovered  it,  you 
will  not  forget  us."  “ Gentlemen."  I said,  “ I shall  be  delighted 
to  remember  you,  but  in  respect  to  the  other  matter  — the 
treasure  — I venture  to  suggest  that  you  shall  pay  half  the 
expenses  of  the  expedition,  and  take  half  the  treasure  we 
discover.”  Upon  hearing  this,  they  drew  long  faces,  and  went 
away.  Shortly  afterwards,  there  came  an  empty  person  of 
Riobamba,  with  his  mouth  full  of  a story  of  priceless  riches 
buried  between  Chimborazo  and  Carihuairazo  : to  discover  which 
should  be  my  aim  for  Ms  advantage  ; and  to  him  I said,  Lead 
us  there,  and  we  will  share  the  spoil  ! " But  he  made  no  answer, 
and  went  away,  and  we  saw  bis  face  no  more.1 

On  Dec.  21,  we  obtained  our  first  view  of  Chimborazo. 
Instruments  had  been  kept  in  readiness : a place  of  observation 
to  the  north  of  and  somewhat  higher  than  the  town  had  been 
selected,  and  we  hurried  to  it  to  make  the  most  of  the  oppor- 
tunity. Two  things  instantly  arrested  attention.  One  of  these 
was  that  Chimborazo  had  two  summits  — twin,  snowy  domes  — 
apparently,  nearly  equally  elevated.  The  other  was  that  the 
whole  of  that  part  of  the  mountain  which  was  seen  from 
Guaranda  was  nearly  covered  with  glaciers. 

All  the  writers  who  have  referred  to  Chimborazo  from 
personal  knowledge,  notably  Humboldt  and  Boussingault,  have 
spoken  of  ‘ the  summit/  never  of  summits  : and  in  a well-known 
passage  in  Asie  Centrals,  which  has  been  embodied  in  many 
geographical  works.  Humboldt  expressly  declares  that  he  saw 
no  glaciers  in  Ecuador.  “ 1 have  seen  nothing  in  the  tropics," 

1 At  almost  every  place  we  visited  in  Ecuador  persons  introduced  themselves 
with  stories  of  buried  treasures. 


24 


TRAVELS  A MONO  ST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ii. 


lie  says,  “ neither  in  Quito,1  nor  in  Mexico,  resembling  the 
Swiss  glaciers  ” ; and  he  quotes  a confirmatory  passage  from 
Boussingault,  in  which  the  latter  says  that  lie  is  only  acquainted 
with  one  glacier  in  Ecuador,  upon  the  mountain  Tunguragua 
— “ c’est  le  seul  glacier  que  j’aie  vu  en  Amerique  entre  les 
tropiques.”  Yet  I saw  Chimborazo  crowned  by  glacier,  and 
streaming  with  glaciers.  They  departed  in  all  directions  from 
a plateau  on  the  top,  almost  covering  the  mountain.2 

The  question  then  arose.  Which  of  these  two  summits  is  the 
higher,  and  the  real  top  of  Chimborazo  ? and  in  the  discussion 
that  followed  it  appeared  that  we  all  inclined  to  the  opinion 
that  the  right  - hand  or  more  eastern  and  more  distant  one, 
although  apparently  lower,  was  actually  loftier  than  the  left  - 
hand  or  more  westerly  one.  Upon  bringing  the  theodolite  to 
bear  upon  it,  I found  that  it  (the  eastern  summit)  was  depressed 
2'  30"  below  the  other. 

We  then  debated  the  manner  of  approach  to  the  eastern 
summit.  Assuming  it  to  be  the  higher  of  the  two,  how  was 
it  to  be  attained  ? The  natural  course  would  have  been  from 
the  south-east.3  This  side  of  the  mountain,  however,  was  never 
perfectly  free  from  clouds.  It  was  steep,  and  so  far  as  we 
could  see,  it  was  almost  completely  covered  by  glacier.  We 
could  distinguish  multitudes  of  crevasses  — the  essential  and 
distinctive  feature  of  glaciers ; and  great  schrunds  which  are  the 
outward  and  visible  signs  of  the  dislocation  of  these  icy  masses 
in  their  passage  across  unusually  irregular  ground.  Over  these 


> In  this  passage,  Humboldt  means  the  viceroyalty  of  Quito  (embracing  the 
whole  of  Ecuador),  not  the  City  of  Quito.  I give  the  passage  at  length  in  Chapter 
XIX. 

2 The  view  facing  p.  24  is  from  a photograph  which  was  taken  a few  days 
later.  For  the  purposes  of  our  discussion  I sketched  the  mountain. 

3 The  reader  will  be  able  to  follow  me  upon  the  accompanying  plate.  The  tambo 
of  Tortorillas  lies  to  the  right,  beyond  the  range  of  the  engraving.  The  Great 
Arenal  is  behind  the  distant  ridge,  which  stretches  from  one  side  to  the  other. 
The  lowest  part  seen  of  Chimborazo  is  more  than  16,000  feet  above  the  sea. 


CHIMBORAZO,  FROM  THE  SLOPES  ABOVE  CUARANDA. 


CHAP.  II. 


THE  SOUTH  SIDE  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 


25 


slopes  and  schrunds,  clouds  came  and  went  ceaselessly.  We 
cherished  the  idea  that  we  were  unfortunate  in  the  weather, 
and  that  presently  they  would  be  dissipated.  It  took  time  to 
learn  that  they  were  a great  and  permanent  feature  of  the 
mountain,  due  to  the  condensation  of  damp  air  coming  from 
the  Amazonian  region. 

A direct  approach  to  the  eastern  summit  from  the  side  of 
Guaranda  could  not  be  contemplated  for  a moment ; for  the 
glaciers  streaming  from  the  two  domes  fell  over  cliffs,  and 
above  nearly  perpendicular  precipices  of  rock  there  rose  per- 
pendicular walls  of  ice,  which  broke  away  as  the  glaciers 
progressed,  and  rolled  into  a basiu,  of  which  we  only  saw  the 
head.  We  could  trace  the  grooves  and  scorings  on  the  slopes 
below  made  by  falling  bodies,  and  knew  that  we  could  not 
venture  there. 

Underneath  the  western  summit,  and  leading  nearly  south- 
west, there  appeared  to  be  a ridge  coming  down  to  the  Arenal, 
and  to  the  west  of  this  there  was  another  basin,  filled  with 
rather  tumultuous  glacier.  This  was  succeeded  by  another 
ridge,  bearing  on  its  crest  a number  of  sharp  pinnacles  of 
rock.  We  could  only  conjecture  what  came  behind  this.  The 
view  was  terminated  on  the  extreme  left  by  a very  long 
snow-slope,  which  seemed  to  be  remarkably  free  from  impedi- 
ments, and  appeared  to  stretch  continuously  almost  from  the 
snow-line  up  to  the  western  dome.  This  ridge  was  a considerable 
distance  away,  and  we  could  not  learn  whether  it  was  possible 
to  reach  its  inferior  end.  Choice  of  route  was  narrowed  to  it 
and  the  south-west  ridge,  and  I gave  a casting  vote  in  favour 
of  the  latter,  being  largely  influenced  in  arriving  at  this 
decision  by  the  supposition  that  it  was  in  this  direction 
Humboldt  and  Boussingault  made  their  memorable  attempts  to 
ascend  the  mountain. 

There  was  one  point  upon  this  ridge  (hereafter  referred  to 
as  the  south-west  ridge  of  Chimborazo)  which,  in  our  united 

E 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ii. 


26 

opinion,  was  likely  to  present  difficulties.1  If  this  place  could  be 
passed,  I reckoned  that  we  should  be  able  to  reach  the  top  of  the 
mountain.  A route  could  be  traced  through  the  great  crevasses 
by  bearing  to  the  west,  and  I proposed  to  work  round  the  western 
summit,  to  get  between  the  two  domes,  and  then  to  strike  right 
and  left. 

Jean-Antoine  and  Louis  were  eager  for  an  immediate  start, 
but  I refused  to  break  up  headquarters  at  Guaranda  until  we 
were  assured  that  we  could  reach  the  south-west  ridge  by  way 
of  the  Arenal.  There  was  a long  interval  about  which  we  knew 
nothing,  and  I despatched  them  at  2 p.m.  on  the  21st  to  endeav- 
our to  connect  the  lowest  part  that  was  visible  from  Guaranda 
with  the  highest  ground  that  we  had  seen  from  the  Arenal ; 
and  instructed  them,  in  the  event  of  this  appearing  a promising 
direction,  to  select  a tit  place  for  camping,  if  jiossible,  at  about 
16,000  feet  — that  being  the  greatest  height  up  to  which  it  was 
probable  we  should  be  able  to  force  natives  and  mules.2  This  was 
a mission  they  were  thoroughly  competent  to  execute,  and  they 
left  me  at  Guaranda  to  carry  on  work  in  which  they  could  have 
rendered  very  little  assistance. 

It  is  stated  in  the  Introduction  that  the  main  object  of 
this  journey  was  to  observe  the  effects  of  low  pressures  ; that, 
to  experience  them,  it  was  necessary  to  get  to  great  elevations  ; 
and  that,  in  order  to  discriminate  between  the  effects  which  might 
properly  be  attributed  to  low  pressures  and  those  which  might 
be  due  to  fatigue,  it  was  necessary  to  eliminate  the  latter.  To 
accomplish  this,  it  was  obviously  better  to  have  dealings  with 
mountains  easy  of  access  than  with  those  involving  high  gym- 
nastics, and  Chimborazo  had  seemed  especially  favourable  for 

' It  will  be  explained  at  a later  point  why  we  considered  this  might  be  a 
critical  place. 

2 They  took  Aneroid  F with  them,  in  order  that  I might,  be  able  to  form  an 
idea  of  the  height  they  reached,  and  1 set  the  pointer  in  the  movable  rim  to  let 
them  know  when  t hey  had  attained  the  desired  elevation. 


CHAP.  II. 


II UMB OLDT'S  A T TEMPT. 


27 


these  investigations  on  account  of  the  apparent  facility  with 
which  previous  travellers  had  attained  great  heights  upon  its 
slopes. 

I had  relied  implicitly  upon  the  accounts  of  Humboldt  and 
Boussingault,  and  accepted  without  reserve  their  statements  that 
they  had  in  1802  and  1831  respectively  reached  the  heights  of 
19,286  and  19,698  feet.  There  were  matters  in  their  relations 
that  I did  not  understand ; particularly,  the  divine  speed  with 
which  they  descended.  Yet  I was  more  disposed  to  imagine  that 
they  had  incorrectly  noted  the  times  which  had  been  occupied 
than  that  there  was  any  considerable  mistake  in  the  determina- 
tion of  their  altitudes  ; for  both  were  provided  with  mercurial 
barometers,  and  had  had  much  experience  in  the  use  of  these 
instruments  in  the  field.  It  was  natural  to  conclude  that  the 
work  must  be  simple  if  these  travellers,  unacquainted  with  the 
art  of  mountaineering,  and  unprovided  with  professional  assist- 
ance, could  reach  so  great  elevations  with  such  facility,  and 
descend  at  such  a prodigious  rate. 

Alexander  von  Humboldt  was  in  his  33rd  year  at  the  time 
that  he  made  his  attempt  to  ascend  Chimborazo.  He  had 
enjoyed  three  years  of  continuous  travel  in  South  America,  he 
was  inured  to  the  peculiarities  of  the  climate,  and  he  had  the 
companionship  of  his  friends  Bonpland  and  Carlos  Montufar — a 
son  of  the  Marquis  de  Selvalegre,  one  of  the  most  important 
personages  of  the  district.  They  were  all  young  men,  and, 
selecting  a favourable  moment  for  the  enterprize,  they  made  their 
expedition  under  advantageous  conditions.  There  are  frequent 
allusions  to  Chimborazo  throughout  the  works  of  Humboldt, 
and  he  evidently  was  profoundly  impressed  by  his  experiences. 
Towards  the  close  of  his  long  life,  and  at  an  age  when  men 
do  not  speak  lightly,  he  declared  that  he  still  considered  it  was 
the  grandest  mountain  in  the  world. 

Notwithstanding  the  frequent  references  to  this  occasion 
which  are  made  in  the  works  of  Humboldt,  I am  unable  to 


28 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ii. 


tell  from  his  own  writings  where  he  actually  went.1  He  does 
not  give  courses,  or  bearings,  or  such  indications  as  enable  one 
to  identify  with  certainty  the  positions  to  which  he  refers.  He 
states  that  upon  June  23,  1802,  he  reached  the  height  of 


19,280  feet  by  1 p.m.,  and  that  this  was  greater  than  he  “had 
dared  hope  for.  In  many  places  the  ridge  was  not  wider  than 

1 See  Vues  clans  les  Cordlllires , pp.  104-7  ; Aspects  of  Nature ; Klcinere 
Schriften ; Recueil  iV  Observations  Aslronomiques,  etc.  etc.  I think  it  better  to 
adopt  as  authoritative  the  account  which  is  given  in  Karl  Bruhns’  Life  of 
Humboldt  (8vo,  Lond.,  1873,  vol.  1,  pp.  311-315)  than  to  attempt  to  construct  a 
narrative  from  these  diverse  relations.  His  biographer  must  be  assumed  to  be 
fully  acquainted  with  all  that  has  been  written  on  the  subject. 


CHAP.  II. 


B 0 USSINGA  UL  T’S  A T TEMPTS. 


29 


from  eight  to  ten  inches.  To  our  left  a precipice  covered  with 
snow.  . . . On  the  right  was  a fearful  abyss.  . . . The  rock 
became  more  friable  and  the  ascent  increasingly  difficult  and 
dangerous.  We  were  obliged  to  use  both  hands  and  feet.  We 
advanced  all  the  more  slowly,  as  every  place  that  seemed  in- 
secure had  first  to  be  tested.”  These  are  some  of  the  expressions 
used  in  regard  to  places  which  were  passed  over  in  the  earlier 
part  of  the  day.  Higher  up,  “one  after  another  all  began  to  feel 
indisposed,  and  experienced  a feeling  of  nausea  accompanied  by 
giddiness.  . . . Blood  exuded  from  the  lips  and  gums.”  At  last 
they  were  stopped  by  a ravine  “some  400  feet  deep  and  60  feet 
wide,  which  presented  an  insurmountable  barrier.  We  could  see 
clearly  that  the  ridge  on  which  we  stood  continued  in  the  same 
direction  on  the  other  side  of  the  ravine.  . . . There  was  no 
means  of  getting  round  the  cleft.  . . . The  softness  of  the  snowy 
mass  prohibited  such  an  attempt.”  This  was  the  turning-point. 
Its  height  was  determined  by  observation  of  mercurial  barometer 
at  19,286  feet.  They  remained  there  but  a short  time,  and  when 
about  half-way  down  encountered  a violent  hail-storm,  which  a 
little  later  was  succeeded  bv  snow.  The  flakes  fell  so  thickly 
that  the  ridge  was  covered  several  inches  deep.  He  says  that 
they  left  their  highest  point  a little  after  1 p.m.,  and  at  a few 
minutes  after  2 reached  the  place  where  they  had  left  their  mules 
(at  15,600  feet),  that  is  to  say,  he  claims  to  have  descended 
3686  feet  in  one  hour!' 

Joseph-Dieudonne  Boussingault  was  in  his  29th  year  when  he 
attempted  to  ascend  Chimborazo  in  1831,  and  had  been  living 
for  several  years  in  elevated  regions  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  Equator.  He  was  accompanied  by  an  American  (Col.  Hall) 
and  a Negro.  On  Dec.  14,  they  went  to  “the  farm  of  Chim- 
borazo,1 2 3 which  he  said  was  at  an  elevation  of  3800  metres 

1 See  Appendix  G at  the  end  of  this  volume,  where  the  relation  from  Karl 

Bruhns  is  given  in  full. 

3 This,  I conjecture,  is  the  place  now  called  Chuquipoquio. 


30 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  ii. 


(12,467  feet),  and  at  7 a.m.  on  the  15th,  under  the  guidance 
of  an  Indian,  followed  a rivulet  enclosed  between  walls  of  rock, 
“whose  waters  descend  from  the  glacier;1  but  very  soon,”  he 
says,  “ we  quitted  this  fissure,  in  order  to  direct  our  steps 
towards  Mocha.2  We  rose  very  gradually,  and  our  mules 
walked  with  difficulty  through  the  debris  of  rock.  The  slope 
then  became  very  rapid,  the  ground  was  unstable,  and  the 
mules  stopped  almost  at  every  step.  They  no  longer  obeyed 
the  spur.  The  breathing  of  the  animals  was  hurried  and 

panting.  We  were  then  at  an  elevation  of  4808  metres  (15,774 
feet).”  They  left  the  mules  at  this  height,  and  “began  to 
ascend  a ridge  which  abutted  on  a very  elevated  point  of  the 

glacier.  It  was  mid-day.  We  went  up  slowly ; and  as  we  got 

higher  on  the  snow  the  difficulty  of  breathing  and  walking 

became  more  and  more  felt ; but  we  easily  regained  our 
strength  by  stopping  at  every  eight  or  ten  steps.  As  we  went 
on,  we  felt  extreme  fatigue  from  the  want  of  consistency  in 
the  snowy  soil,  which  gave  way  continually  under  our  feet, 
and  in  which  we  sank  sometimes  up  to  the  waist.  We  were 
soon  convinced  of  the  impossibility  of  proceeding.  We  went 
to  rest  on  a block  of  trachyte,  at  an  elevation  of  5115  metres 
(16,781  feet).  Thus,  after  much  fatigue,  we  had  only  risen 
307  metres  (1007  feet)  higher  than  the  place  whence  we  had 
set  out.  At  6 o’clock  we  were  back  at  the  farm.” 

They  determined  to  make  another  attempt.  “ The  weather 
had  been  splendid,  and  Chimborazo  had  never  appeared  so  magni- 
ficent. We  fesolved,”  he  says,  “ to  try  to  ascend  the  steep  side, 
that  is  to  say,  by  the  slope  facing  the  Arenal.  We  knew  that 
it  was  upon  this  side  M.  de  Humboldt  had  ascended,  and  we 
had  been  shewn  at  Riobamba  the  point  he  had  reached,  but  it  was 

1 It  is  curious  to  note  that  Boussingault  here  refers  to  a glacier,  although 
elsewhere  lie  says  that  he  has  seen  only  one  glacier  in  the  Tropics,  upon  the  mount- 
ain Tunguragua. 

2 From  this  it  appears  that  they  made  for  the  easternmost  glacier  of  Chimborazo, 
which  is  marked  K upon  my  map. 


CHAP.  II. 


A LIVELY  DESCENT. 


31 


impossible  to  obtain  precise  information  about  the  route  which  he 
had  followed  to  get  there.”  They  set  out  at  7 a.m.  on  Dec.  16, 
for  the  Arenal,1  and  by  9 o’clock  had  got  to  a height  of  4335 
metres  (14,223  feet),  and  stopped  for  breakfast.  At  10.45  a.m., 
they  left  their  mules  at  a height  of  4945  metres  (16,224  feet),  that 
is  to  say,  they  had  got  them  2000  feet  upwards  in  an  hour  and 
three-quarters,  including  the  time  occupied  by  breakfast  and 
reading  the  barometer.  At  12.45  they  were  at  a height  of  5680 
metres  (18,636  feet),  or  had  mounted  2412  feet  more  in  two  hours, 
including  the  stoppages  necessary  for  further  observations  of  the 
barometer  and  the  formation  of  a geological  collection,  notwith- 
standing that  they  had  to  pause  every  six  or  eight  steps  to  get 
breath.  Here  they  halted  for  rest,  and  again  read  the  barometer, 
yet  at  1.45  p.m.  they  had  reached  a height  of  6004  metres 

(19,698  feet),  although  upon  this  section  they  “were  obliged  to 

stop  every  two  or  three  steps”  to  get  breath,  and  even  to  sit 
down.  They  commenced  to  descend  about  3 p.m.,  and  at  4.45 

arrived  again  at  the  height  of  4335  metres  (14,223  feet),  that 

is  to  say,  descended  5475  feet  in  an  hour  and  three-quarters. 
Boussingault  says  the  descent  was  wearisome  (penible).  It  seems, 
however,  to  have  been  rather  lively.  His  average  rate  through- 
out the  whole  of  the  descent  was  52  feet  per  minute,  over  slopes 
on  which  a thin  coating  of  snow  lay  over  ice,  where  step-cutting 
was  necessary ; over  a ‘ mauvais  pas,’  and  a ‘ nappe  de  glace,’ 
where  ‘a  slip  would  have  been  fatal’;  and  talus,  'quite  im- 

1 Boussingault,  like  Humboldt,  gives  neither  courses  nor  bearings.  He  appears 
to  have  followed  the  ordinary  track  round  the  mountain,  and  must  have  arrived 
at  the  Arenal  by  passing  through  the  place  called  Tortorillas.  The  speed  with 
which  he  now  travels  is  remarkable,  and  is  very  much  faster  than  the  rates 
quoted  for  his  first  attempt. 

He  evidently  intended  to  follow  the  route  taken  by  Humboldt  ; and  presum- 
ably lie  did  so,  as  nothing  subsequently  is  said  to  the  contrary.  I endeavoured 
in  1870  to  learn  more  particulars  from  M.  Boussingault  about  the  route  he  fol- 
lowed. He  informed  me  that  lie  could  not  at  that  distance  of  time  (forty-eight 
years)  remember  anything  more  than  he  had  published.  Boussingault  died  in 
1887,  aged  85. 


32 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ii. 


practicable  for  mules.’1  But  he  was  beaten  by  Humboldt,  who 
descended  368G  feet  in  sixty  minutes,  or  at  an  average  rate  of 
sixty-one  feet  per  minute,  down  a ridge  which  in  many  places 
was  not  wider  than  from  eight  to  ten  inches,  with  friable  rock 
which  had  to  be  climbed  ; where  every  loose  place  had  first  to 
be  tested,  and  from  the  insecurity  of  the  footing  greater  caution 
was  necessary  than  during  the  ascent — the  last  part  of  the  way 
being  through  a storm  which  covered  the  ridge  with  several 
inches  of  snow.  This  is  a divine  rate  for  men  encumbered  with 
mercurial  barometers,  and  laden  with  geological  collections. 

I had  not  imagined  that  we  should  equal  these  extraordinary 
rates  of  speed.  I did  not,  and  do  not,  understand  how  they 

were  accomplished.2  It  had  seemed  to  me  probable  that  the 
times  which  were  occupied  were  incorrectly  noted.  My  per- 

plexities were  increased  when  I saw  Chimborazo  from  Guaranda, 
and  studied  the  mountain  in  connection  with  the  narratives  of 
these  two  famous  travellers.  I was  roughly  disillusionized. 

Accepting  its  height  as  21,425  feet,  a fair  notion  could  be 
formed  where  19,500  feet  would  come  ; and  it  was  evident  that 
no  one  could  stand  at  that  elevation,  at  any  part  of  the  mount- 
ain, without  having  glaciers  in  front,  behind,  and  upon  each 
side,  and  that  no  one  could  gain  that  elevation  without,  also, 
passing  over  glacier. 

It  now  seemed  probable  that  the  altitudes  had  also  been 

incorrectly  determined,  and  1 began  to  take  more  interest  in 
the  elevation  of  Chimborazo.  The  height  of  this  mountain  has 

1 For  the  full  account,  from  which  these  quotations  are  made,  see  Appendix  H, 
at  the  end  of  this  volume.  The  title  of  the  original  is  Ascension  an  Chimborazo, 
execute  le  16  decembre , 1831,  par  M.  Boussingault. 

2 When  writing  Scrambles  amongst  the  Alps,  I tabulated  a large  number  of 
ascents  of  the  principal  Alpine  peaks  to  obtain  a notion  of  the  average  rate  of 
progression  of  mountaineers  in  general ; and  found  that  1000  feet  per  hour,  taking 
the  mean  of  ascent  and  descent,  was  a respectable  rate,  including  halts.  That 
is  to  say,  ten  hours  would  be  a fair  allowance  for  the  ascent  and  descent  of 
5000  feet  involving  work  of  moderate  difficulty.  This,  however,  had  reference  to 
unencumbered  men,  and  to  mountain  work  less  than  16,000  feet  above  the  sea. 


CHAP.  II. 


THE  BAROMETERS. 


33 


undergone  vicissitudes.  Sometimes  it  has  been  greater  and 
sometimes  smaller.1  Humboldt  says  (in  Aspects  of  Nature,  vol.  1, 
p.  96)  that  until  1820  it  was  still  regarded  as  ‘‘the  highest 
summit  on  the  surface  of  the  earth.”2  It  looked  very  large 
from  Guaranda.  The  snowy  part  that  was  visible  (and  this  was 
only  a fraction  of  the  whole)  extended  nearly  over  a point  of 
the  compass  (ten  degrees  and  a half).  AVe  were  more  than 
twice  the  distance  from  it  that  the  Brevent  is  from  Mont  Blanc, 
yet  at  that  distance  its  crevasses  and  schrunds  appeared  larger 
and  more  formidable  than  the  crevasses  on  Mont  Blanc  which 
can  be  seen  from  the  Brevent.  It  was  clear  that  an  ascent  was 
not  to  be  effected  without  labour.  The  route  that  I proposed 
to  take  seemed  the  easiest  if  not  the  only  way  by  which  it 
could  be  ascended  on  the  side  of  the  Arena!. 

AYhile  the  Carrels  were  away  prospecting,  I gave  attention  to 
the  barometers,  for  measurement  of  atmospheric  pressure  was  the 
first  consideration,  as  this  was  at  the  bottom  of  all  the  work  which 
was  to  be  undertaken.  I took  to  Ecuador  two  mountain  mercurial 
barometers  of  the  Fortin  pattern,3  as  well  as  boiling-point  ther- 
mometers and  aneroids.  Although  the  employment  of  aneroids, 
and  the  boiling-water  method  are  recommended  in  works  of 
authority4  for  the  determination  of  differences  of  pressure,  I 


1 Juan  and  Ulloa  made  it  21,615  feet;  La  Condamine,  20,592  feet;  Humboldt, 
21,425  feet ; and  Reiss  and  Stiibel,  20,703  feet. 

2 This  teaching  seems  to  have  prevailed  at  a later  date,  for  in  the  first  and 
second  editions  of  E.  Barrett  Browning’s  Aurora  Leigh,  published  in  1856-7,  the 
following  passage  occurs : — 

“ I learnt  the  royal  genealogies 
Of  Oviedo,  the  internal  laws 
Of  the  Burmese  empire,  ...  by  how  many  feet 
Mount  Chimborazo  outsoars  Himmeleh.” 

3 And  left  a third  one  (Kew  pattern)  with  Mr.  Chambers  for  simultaneous 
comparisons  at  Guayaquil. 

* See  Hints  to  Travellers,  sixth  edition,  pp.  89,  305,  309,  etc. 

F 


34 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ii. 


felt  that  observations  made  by  them  would  not  command  confi- 
dence ; but  as  the  transport  of  mercurial  barometers  is  a ticklish 
matter,  and  they  seldom  survive  prolonged  use,  I carried  boiling- 
point  thermometers  and  aneroids  as  a reserve  in  case  of  accident, 
and  took  every  opportunity  to  compare  the  indications  of  the 
three  kinds  of  instruments,  to  instruct  myself  how  far  they 
agreed  when  used  in  the  field. 

All  the  instruments  arrived  at  Guaranda  in  safety.1  From 
London  to  Bodegas  they  had  been  in  my  own  charge,  and  I 
then  handed  the  two  Fortins  over  to  Jean- Antoine,  who,  to 
ensure  the  safety  of  these  delicate  instruments,  walked  the 
greater  part  of  the  way  from  Bodegas  to  Guaranda.  From  the 
unceasing  attention  that  they  required,  the  barometers  were 
nicknamed  “ the  babies,”  and  many  children  would  be  fortunate 
indeed  if  they  were  tended  with  the  loving  care  which  he 
bestowed  upon  those  mercurial  infants. 

The  two  Fortin  barometers  were  verified  before  departure  at 
Kew  Observatory,*  and  were  hung  alongside  each  other  at 
Guaranda.  The  mean  of  the  readings  of  these  two  barometers, 
reduced  to  32°  Faht.,  was  the  standard  to  which  all  the  other 
observations  were  referred. 

The  boiling-point  thermometers  were  in  two  series  (150° — 
185°,  and  180° — 215°),  in  order  to  have  each  degree  a good 
length  : and  a number  of  experimental  comparisons  were  made 
with  them,  upon  which  a few  general  observations  are  offered 
in  Appendix  D. 

Seven  aneroids  were  taken  to  the  interior  of  Ecuador.3  All 

of  these  were  made  for  the  journey,  and  they  were  frequently 
\ 

1 Except  one  aneroid,  which  was  either  lost  or  stolen.  During  our  halt  at 
S.  Jose  de  Chimbo,  an  Ecuadorian  who  heard  that  I carried  aneroids  was  very 
urgent  to  buy  one.  I shewed  him  mine,  and  on  arrival  at  Guaranda  found  that 
one  of  them  had  disappeared.  A reward  was  offered  for  its  recovery,  without  result. 

2 A facsimile  of  the  Certificate  of  Verification  of  No.  558  is  given  in  Appendix  C. 

3 And  an  eighth  was  left  with  Mr.  Chambers  at  Guayaquil,  as  a reserve  in 
case  of  accident  to  the  mercurial  barometer. 


CHAP.  II. 


COMPARISONS  OF  TJ1E  ANEROIDS. 


35 


tested  before  departure  under  the  air-pump,  and  compared  with  the 
Makers’  Standard,  as  well  as  compared  with  my  own  standards 
which  had  been,  as  I have  said,  verified  at  Kew.  The  prime 
reason  for  carrying  so  many  aneroids  was  the  apprehension  that, 
despite  the  care  which  was  taken  of  the  mercurial  barometers, 
I might  be  suddenly  deprived  of  them  by  some  unhappy  smash  ; 
and,  having  a number,  the  occasion  was  favourable  for  comparing 
the  actual  working  of  the  two  classes  of  barometers. 

Whilst  aneroids  are  much  recommended  by  some  persons,  by 
others  they  are  much  condemned.  Though  it  is  common  to  hear 
them  spoken  of  as  unreliable  it  is  certain  that  differences  of 
pressure  can  be  determined  by  them  with  marvellous  accuracy. 
When  I sought  for  information  or  instruction  how  and  why 
they  were  unreliable  I obtained  no  satisfaction,  and  I was 
unable  to  learn  that  any  one  had  ever  taken  the  trouble  to 
compare  the  actual  working  in  the  field  of  aneroids  against  the 
mercurial  barometer  at  low  pressures.1  The  recommendations  in 
favour  of  aneroids  have  been  made,  it  is  to  be  presumed,  on  the 
assumption  that  they  do  read  against  the  mercurial  barometer 
with  the  same  degree  of  accuracy  when  employed  in  the  field 
as  they  do  when  tested  against  it  under  the  air-pump. 

This  seemed  to  be  a fit  subject  for  investigation,  and  I 
entered  upon  the  enquiry  without  prepossessions  either  for  or 
against  aneroids,  cherishing  the  hope  that  the  means  of  several 
would  closely  accord  with  the  mercurial  barometer, — a hope  that 
I entertained  because  these  instruments  seemed  to  be  pretty 
equally  divided  between  those  which  had  a tendency  to  read  too 
high  and  those  which  had  a tendency  to  read  too  low.  The 
idea  was  that  the  plus  errors  of  some  might  or  would  balance 
the  minus  errors  of  others. 

This  hope  was  speedily  dissipated.  I found  that  my  aneroids 
did  not  read  against  the  mercurial  barometer  when  used  in  the 


1 I do  not  ignore  Mr.  Glaisher's  comparisons  in  balloon.  See  Appendix  A, 


36 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  ciiap.  ii. 


field  with  the  same  accuracy,  or  in  the  same  manner,  as  they 
had  done  when  tested  under  the  air-pump,  and  that  their 
behaviour  was  perplexing.  Upon  leaving  Guayaquil  (just  above 
the  level  of  the  sea),  one  of  the  seven  read  higher  than  the 
mercurial  barometer,  and  the  six  others  all  read  lower  than  it, 
though  not  to  a large  extent.  The  mean  of  the  readings  of  the 
whole  of  the  aneroids  was  0*055  of  an  inch  lower  than  the 
mercurials,  and  the  seven  instruments  ditfered  amongst  each 
other  to  the  extent  of  0*346  of  an  inch.  It  was  to  be  expected 
that  they  would  continue  to  differ  amongst  each  other,  and  that 
the  greatest  difference  would  increase,  as  this  is  what  is  com- 
monly found  to  occur  in  most  assemblages  of  aneroids.  The 
object  of  comparison  in  the  field  was  to  determine  whether 
increase  of  the  differences  amongst  the  aneroids  tvould  affect 
the  mean  error  of  the  whole  when  compared  with  the  mercurial 
barometer  ; that  is  to  say,  would  the  mean  error  of  the  aneroids 
remain  0*055  of  an  inch,  or  would  it  become  materially  altered  ? 

It  became  apparent  at  an  early  stage  of  the  journey  that 
the  means  of  the  aneroids  shewed  larger  and  larger  depart- 
ures from  the  mercurial  barometer.  After  a little  time,  each 
individual  instrument  indicated  loiver  pressures  than  the  mer- 
curial barometer.1  By  the  time  we  arrived  at  Guaranda  the 
mean  error  of  the  aneroids  had  increased  from  —0*055  to 
— 0*520  of  an  inch,  and  it  augmented  daily.2  In  the  course 

of  the  narrative  I shall  point  out  from  time  to  time  the 
exceedingly  serious  errors  which  would  have  been  fallen  into 
in  determination  of  altitudes  if  I had  been  obliged  to  rely 
upon  aneroids  alone.3 

When  the  weather  was  favourable  I took  out  the  camera, 

1 Aneroid  D,  the  one  which  read  higher  than  the  mercurials  at  Guayaquil,  by 
the  time  we  arrived  at  Tambo  Gobierno  had  a minus  error  of  0'359  of  an  inch. 

1 See  Appendix  C,  § 5,  and  the  tables  showing  the  constant  growth  of  the 
“greatest  difference,”  and  the  “mean  error  of  aneroids.” 

3 Those  who  desire  to  pursue  this  subject  are  referred  to  the  pamphlet  How 
to  me  the  Aneroid  Barometer,  which  is  published  simultaneously  with  this  volume. 


CHAP.  II. 


INSTANTANEOUS  EXECUTION. 


37 


and  photographed  Chimborazo,  and  the  Spanish  girl  with  the 
lustrous  eyes,  and  other  objects  of  interest ; which  came  to  the 
ears  of  the  Authorities,  and  then  they  wished  to  be  photographed, 
along  with  their  progeny.  It  was  difficult  to  refuse,  but  I 
grudged  a plate  on  them  alone,  and  sent  out  Mr.  Perriug  to 
pick  up  subjects  with  a stronger  local  flavour,  to  include  in 
the  group  ; and,  with  an  excess  of  zeal,  he  pounced  down  upon 
the  first  person  he  came  across,  an  old  Indian  woman,  and 
drove  her  before  him  into  the  courtyard, 
and  screeching,  clasping  her  hands,  and 
appealing  to  the  Almighty  to  save  her  from 
my  cruelty.  “ What  have  I done/’  she 
shrieked,  “ that  I should  be  seized  and 
brought  here  to  be  killed  ? Senor  Patron  ! 
spare  my  life  ! What  have  I done  to  be 
treated  thus?” — a speech  which  drew  a 
roar  of  laughter  from  the  others,  who  were 
waiting  to  be  executed.1 

The  Carrels  returned,  very  tired,  at  8.45 
a.m.  on  Dec.  23,  bringing  a good  report. 

To  shew  the  height  they  had  attained,  they 
had  placed  the  pointer  attached  to  the 
movable  rim  of  the  aneroid  against  15*370 
inches.  They  had  traversed  the  ground 
intervening  between  the  Arenal  and  the 
ridge  I proposed  to  follow,  and  Jean- Antoine  had  selected  a 
camping-place  upon  it ; but  they  thought  that  we  should  be 
unable  to  reach  this  spot  comfortably,  with  a laden  team,  in  one 
day  from  Gruaranda,  and  spoke  emphatically  of  the  fatigue  they 
had  experienced  in  pounding  up  a sandy  vallon  leading  to  it. 
They  had  accordingly  selected  another  and  lower  camping-place 

1 It  was  explained  afterwards  that  her  fright  was  due  to  the  Chief  of  the 
Police,  whose  office  was  in  our  courtyard.  Perring  was  supposed  by  her  to  be 
one  of  his  myrmidons. 


She  came  in  crying 


THE  CHIEF  OF  THE  POLICE. 


38 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ii. 


on  the  northern  side  of  the  Arenal,  at  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
and  proposed  that  on  the  first  day  we  should  not  try  to  go 
farther. 

The  needle  of  Aneroid  F pointed  to  15-370  inches  when  the 
Carrels  were  at  the  place  that  they  selected  for  the  higher 
camp,  and  as  the  corresponding  figures  on  the  “scale  of  feet” 
were  19,122  they  could  have  fairly  claimed  to  have  reached  that 
height  “ by  aneroid I estimated  that  they  had  only  got  about 
as  high  as  10,450  feet.  The  Aneroid  F,  at  all  stages  of  the 

journey,  read  lower  than  the  mercurial  barometers.  At  Guaya- 
quil its  error  was  — 0T72  ; at  Mufiapamba  it  was  — 0-208  ; at 
Tambo  Gobierno  it  was  — 0'629  ; and,  upon  arrival  at  Guaranda, 
— 0'708  of  an  inch.1  Its  error  constantly  increased.  When 

they  left  Guaranda  on  Dec.  21  it  amounted  to  — 0-890  of  an 
inch,  and  on  their  return  upon  the  23rd  it  had  risen  to  — 1‘080 
inches.  I assumed  that  the  error  was  regularly  increasing,  and 
that  when  they  reached  their  highest  point,  soon  after  mid-day 
on  the  22nd,  it  amounted  to  one  inch.  In  that  case,  the  true 
barometric  reading  would  be  16-370  inches. 

The  figures  corresponding  with  10 '3  70  inches  upon  the 

“ scale  of  feet  ” were  17,400,  but  from  this  amount  I subtracted 
950  feet,  for  the  following  reason.  Aneroid  F (like  a great 
part  of  the  aneroids  which  are  in  use)  had  its  zero,  or  level  of 
the  sea,  at  31  inches,  and  made  30  inches  correspond  with  a 

height  of  894  feet  above  the  sea.2  I assumed  that  atmospheric 
pressure  at  the  level  of  the  sea  on  Dec.  22  was  a little  less 
than  30  inches,3  and  deducted  950  feet  accordingly.  This 

1 It  should  not  be  supposed  that  this  was  due  to  bad  graduation.  I had  seen 
this  aneroid,  like  all  the  others  when  tested  under  the  air-pump,  accord  inch  by 
inch  with  the  attached  mercurial  barometer. 

2 See  How  to  use  the  Aneroid  Barometer,  pp.  56-7. 

3 This  could  be  assumed  with  some  probability,  as  the  variations  in  atmospheric 
pressure  are  small  in  Ecuador.  See  Appendix  B. 

Upon  return  to  Guayaquil,  I found  that  Mr.  Chambers  had  recorded  29  957 
inches  (mere.  bar.  reduced  to  32°)  as  the  reading  at  11  a. in.  on  Dec.  22. 


CHAP.  II. 


WE  START  FOR  CHIMBORAZO. 


39 


reduced  the  height  of  the  place  they  had  selected  for  the 
second  camp  to  16,450  feet,  and  up  to  that  spot,  they  said, 
animals  might  be  taken. 

We  now  thought  that  there  was  nothing  to  hinder  us  from 
starting  on  the  24th,  but  upon  discussing  matters  with  the 
arrieros  it  appeared  that  our  departure  must  be  postponed,  as 
they  would  not  be  absent  from  Guaranda  on  Christmas  Day. 
At  9.45  a.m.  on  the  26th  our  troop  of  fourteen  animals  (ten 

for  baggage  and  four 
for  riding)  filed  out  of 
the  yard,1  followed  by 
three  arrieros  and  two 
Indians  who  were  em- 
ployed to  carry  some 
long  poles  which  were 
wanted  for  signals  and 
other  uses.  The  Priest 
blessed  me  and  mine, 
and  all  that  we  had. 
The  Chief  of  the  Police, 
dressed  in  his  best, 
came  to  see  us  off  ; 
while  the  populace  of  Guaranda  sat  on  a wall  and  regarded  us 
with  stolidity. 

The  Indians  were  supplied  by  the  Authorities,  and  proved 
an  undesirable  contingent.  They  lagged  behind  under  various 
pretences,  with  the  obvious  intention  of  bolting,  and  would 
speedily  have  disappeared  had  not  somebody  kept  in  the  rear 
to  prevent  their  escape.2 3  One  of  them,  an  exceptionally  sulky 


THE  POPULACE  AT  GUARANDA. 


i The  price  demanded  for  baggage  or  riding  animals  in  Ecuador  was  generally 

very  moderate.  On  this  occasion  it  was  a peso  (equal  to  about  2s.  8d.)  per  day 
and  forage. 

3 They  were  paid  in  advance,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  and 
had  to  be  provided  with  shoes.  Although  natives  of  all  sorts  were  continually 


40 


TRA  YELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  ii. 


and  stubborn  fellow,  carried  his  poles  in  such  a manner  that 
they  struck  everything  we  passed,  and  by  these  and  other 
antics  delayed  us  so  considerably  that  we  occupied  seven  hours 
in  getting  to  the  Arena!.  After  crossing  its  summit,  we  left  the 
usual  Quito  track  (which  passes  bv  Tortorillas)  on  our  right, 

and  under  the  leading  of  Jean- 
Antoine  steered  a nearly  north- 
north-easterlv  course  over  the 
upper  and  level  portion  of  the 
great  plain.  The  sun  was 
approaching  the  horizon,  and 
threw  immensely  long  shadows 
upon  the  luminous  sand.  Carrel 
guided  us  to  the  spot  he  had 
selected,  just  at  the  mouth 
of  a vallon  leading  directly 
towards  the  western  summit.1 
We  camped  under  a moonlit 
sky  by  the  6ide  of  a tiny 
stream.  The  night  was  still 
and  cold,  and  at  meal-time  we 
all — mountaineers,  arrieros,  and 
Indians — sat  together  round  a 
blazing  fire  in  the  centre  of  the 
encampment.  The  temperature 
fell  unexpectedly  low.  The  minimum  thermometer  registered 
21  Faht.,  and  our  little  brook  became  a mass  of  solid  ice. 
The  remains  of  the  soup  in  the  cooking  utensils  were  frozen  up, 
cruelly  hard,— but  it  was  harder  still  to  find  in  the  morning 
that  the  Indians  and  five  of  the  mules  had  disappeared. 

met  with  trudging  bare-footed  along  the  roads,  whenever  one  was  hired  he 
found  himself  unable  to  walk  without  shoes,  and  that  he  had  none. 

1 Left  Guaranda  9.45  a.m. ; arrived  at  Ensillada  1.50  p.tn.  Halted  45  min. 
Arrived  at  summit  of  Arenal  4.45  p.m.;  and  at  Camp  1 (14,375  feet)  at  5.50  p.m. 


ONE  OF  OUR  ARRIEROS. 


AIGUILLES  ON  CHIMBORAZO. 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 

The  temperature  in  the  night  was  unexpectedly  low  for  so 
moderate  an  elevation  as  that  of  the  first  camp.  Only  a week 
before,  at  Tortorillas,  we  had  experienced  56°. 5 at  mid-day,  and 
I scarcely  anticipated  that  the  freezing-point  would  be  touched 
at  the  height  of  14.000  feet  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Equator.1 
This  sharp  frost  caused  me  to  observe  the  nocturnal  minima 
at  our  subsequent  camps,  and,  from  the  table  that  is  given  in 
Appendix  E,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  minimum  of  the  night  of 
Dec.  26  was  below  the  average.  It  occurred  upon  an  excep- 
tionally fine  night,  with  a clear  sky. 

1 The  only  information  I possessed  upon  temperatures  of  any  sort  at  considerable 
elevations  in  Ecuador  was  that  published  by  Boussingault  in  the  Comptes  Rend ux, 
in  1879,  vol.  lxxxviii,  p.  1241.  This  relates  to  the  Hacienda  of  Antisana  (13,306 
feet),  and  is  referred  to  more  particularly  in  my  chapter  upon  Antisana. 

G 


42 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iit. 


The  disappearance  of  the  mules  and  Indians  was  a more 
serious  matter.  The  arrieros  could  afford  to  take  it  coolly,  as  the 
hire  of  their  animals  had  been  paid  in  advance.  Deprived  of 
seven  backs,  two  journeys  became  necessary  to  the  second  camp, 
and  the  best  arrangement  I could  make  was  to  despatch  Jean- 
Antoine  in  charge  of  the  caravan,  whilst  Louis  and  I waited 
below  at  the  foot  of  the  vallon,  ostensibly  to  finish  work  there, 
but  really  to  prevent  any  more  desertions. 

Jean- Antoine  went  away  at  10  a.m.  on  the  27th,  with  eight 
laden  mules,  the  three  arrieros  and  Perring.  He  was  to  remain 
above,  to  commence  the  establishment  of  the  camp,  and  to  send 
the  team  back  as  soon  as  it  could  be  unloaded.  One  mule  was 
retained  below,  for  this  beast  seemed  to  be  oppressed  with  such 
a load  of  melancholy  (which  I attributed  to  sore  ribs)  that  I 
had  not  the  heart  to  send  it  higher.  Louis  was  well  employed 

in  collecting  firewood,  and  in  transferring  surplus  stores  up  the 

vallon  to  a depot ; whilst  I.  after  finishing  my  proper  work,  went 
aside,  and  stripped  for  a real  good  wash  before  going  to  regions 
where  ablutions  were  unknown.  Presently  there  was  a noise, 
and  I became  aware  that  the  mule  had  broken  loose  and  was 
frisking  about.  The  animal  rejoiced  in  freedom,  and,  intoxicated 
by  success,  went  as  near  to  standing  upon  its  head  as  a mule 
can  go.  Its  behaviour  seemed  to  me  supremely  ungrateful,  and 
I went  for  that  animal.  It  ran  away ; but  it  was  handicapped, 
for  it  had  a long  halter,  which  trailed  along  the  sandy  plain, 
whilst  I ran  unimpeded,  and  gained  on  it  at  every  stride.  When 

I seized  the  halter  it  was  I who  was  captured.  The  wretched 

beast  dragged  me  unmercifully  over  the  sandy  soil  until  Louis 
came  to  my  assistance,  and  we  then  towed  it  in  triumph  back 
to  camp. 

On  the  side  of  the  Great  Arenal  three  vallons  lead  up  into 
Chimborazo.1  One  of  these,  narrow  at  its  mouth  and  broader 
above,  is  bounded  at  its  upper  extremity  by  the  glacier  which 

i See  the  map  of  Chimborazo  inset  on  the  large  general  map. 


CIIAP.  III. 


ON  MOUNTAIN-SICKNESS. 


43 


is  marked  G upon  my  map.  This  one  we  naturally  termed  the 
Vallon  de  Tortorillas.  The  next  towards  the  west— the  Vallon 
de  Debris  — leads  to  the  glacier  marked  F.  The  third,  still 
farther  to  the  west,  was  that  up  which  our  caravan  had  gone. 
I called  this  the  Vallon  de  Carrel.  The  Great  Arenal  stretches 
along  the  base  of  the  ridges  that  divide  these  little  valleys.1  In 
the  vicinity  of  Tortorillas  its  soil  is  grassy,  and  affords  pasturage 
to  sheep  and  cattle ; but  vegetation  becomes  more  and  more 
sparse  as  one  proceeds  towards  the  west,  and  ultimately  it 
almost  entirely  disappears.  The  soil  in  the  centre  of  the  plain 
is  composed  of  fragments  of  lava — much  of  it  scoriaceous ; they 
presently  become  smaller  and  more  equal  in  size,  and  on  the 
west  of  the  plain  the  surface  is  composed  of  what  can  only  be 
called  fine  sand,  which  drifts  in  this  direction.  This  is  partly 
volcanic  dust,  and  probably  is  partly  derived  from  attrition 
of  the  larger  fragments.  Much  of  the  matter  was  no  doubt 
ejected  by  Chimborazo,  but  it  is  certainly  to  some  extent  sup- 
plemented by  the  volcanic  dust  which  is  constantly  floating 
about  the  country,  and  is  borne  by  the  prevalent  winds  towards 
the  south-west. 

This  sandy  soil  was  very  loose,  and  toilsome  to  ascend  even 
upon  moderate  gradients.  Hence  I was  surprised  that  our  caravan 
returned  soon  after  1 p.m.,  having  occupied  only  a little  more 
than  three  hours  in  going  to  and  returning  from  the  second  camp. 
After  allowing  the  animals  a rest,  they  were  reloaded  with  as 
much  as  was  good  for  them,  and  the  remainder  of  the  provisions 
and  stores  were  left  in  depot  at  the  entrance  of  the  Vallon  de 
Carrel.  At  this  point  I must  stop  to  explain  more  particularly 
the  manner  in  which  it  was  proposed  to  conduct  our  operations. 

Neither  of  the  two  Carrels,  nor  I myself,  had  ever  experi- 
enced the  least  symptom  of  mountain-sickness.  None  of  us, 

1 These  vallons  cannot  he  seen  in  the  view  facing  p.  24.  They  are  hidden  by 
the  ridge  that  stretches  across  the  engraving. 


44 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iii. 


however,  prior  to  this  journey  had  been  10,000  feet  high  ; and, 
probably,  had  never  sustained  so  low  a pressure  as  IT  inches. 
I had  at  various  times  been  in  the  company  of  persons  who 
said  they  were  affected  by  ‘ rarefaction  of  the  air/ and  who  were 
unable  to  proceed ; but  their  symptoms,  so  far  as  I observed 
them,  might  have  been  produced  by  fatigue  and  unfamiliarity 
with  mountaineering,  and  were  not  of  the  more  acute  kind. 
Although  I attached  little  importance  to  such  cases  as  had  come 
under  my  own  personal  observation,  1 had  never  felt  disposed  to 
question  the  reality  of  mountain-sickness  ; and  on  the  contrary 
had  frequently  maintained  that  it  is  reasonable  to  expect  some 
effects  should  be  produced  upon  men  who  experience  much  lower 
atmospheric  pressures  than  those  to  which  they  are  accustomed  ; 
and  that  it  is  much  more  remarkable  to  find  that,  apparently, 
no  effects  of  a detrimental  kind  are  caused  on  many  persons 
who  ascend  to  the  height  of  14-15,000  feet  (or,  say,  sustain  a 
pressure  of  seventeen  and  a half  inches),  than  it  is  to  learn  that 
otliers  have  suffered  at  slightly  lower  pressures.  The  thing  that 
seemed  most  puzzling  was  that,  at  the  greatest  heights  I had 
reached,  instead  of  appearing  to  suffer  any  injurious  effects,  the 
effects  seemed  positively  beneficial ; and  from  this  I thought  it 
was  not  unlikely  that  Ave  should  be  able  to  reach  much  more 
considerable  heights,  and  to  sustain  considerably  lower  pressures, 
without  being  ad\'ersely  affected. 

Some  of  my  friends,  however,  avIio  had  been  as  high  as 
17-18,000  feet,  competent  mountaineers,  and  men  who  could 
speak  without  exaggeration,  told  me  that  they  had  not  been  at 
all  comfortable  at  such  elevations.  It  seemed  certain  that  sooner 
or  later  Ave  should  suffer  like  the  rest  of  the  Avorld,  but  I pro- 
posed to  put  off  the  evil  day  as  long  as  possible ; to  mount 
gradually  and  leisurely,  by  small  stages,  so  that  there  should  be 
no  abrupt  transition  ; and  to  get  to  the  loAvest  attainable  press- 
ures (the  greatest  heights)  by  the  simplest  means  that  could 
be  devised,  and  by  the  easiest  routes  that  could  be  found,  in 


CHAP.  III. 


THE  COMMISSARIAT. 


45 


order  that  extreme  exertion  and  fatigue  should  take  no  part  in 
anything  that  might  happen.  This  will  explain  why  we  pro- 
ceeded so  deliberately.  Should  it  be  found  necessary,  I was 
prepared  to  devote  the  whole  of  the  time  that  I could  remain 
in  Ecuador  to  Chimborazo  alone.  I did  not  see  fit  either  before 
our  departure  from  Europe,  or  at  any  period  of  the  journey,  to 
communicate  the  nature  of  my  objects  to  my  assistants,  or  what 
was  likely  to  befall  them.  At  starting,  they  were  only  aware 
that  we  should  proceed  to  South  America,  and  that  they  would 
be  employed  in  mountain  work,  at  great  elevations. 

As  it  would  be  impossible  to  retain  natives  at  our  higher 
camps,  and  we  ourselves  might  be  detained  at  them  by  bad 
weather  or  from  other  causes  even  for  weeks  at  a time,  it  was 
necessary  to  be  well  provided  with  food ; and  as  it  could  not 
be  expected  that  we  should  be  able  to  obtain  on  the  spot  pro- 
visions which  would  keep  for  a length  of  time,  I concluded, 
before  leaving  Europe,  that  to  work  with  certainty  we  must 
make  ourselves  entirely  independent  of  the  resources  of  the 
country  in  the  matter  of  the  food  which  would  be  consumed  at 
the  greatest  heights.  A large  quantity  of  the  most  portable  and 
most  condensed  provisions  accordingly  went  out  for  our  use.1 

These  provisions  were  packed  in  boxes  measuring  28Jxll} 
x lOf  inches,  weighing  about  72  lbs.  apiece.  Each  of  these  boxes 
contained  three  tin  cases,  measuring  9f  x 9 x 8f  inches,  and  each 
tin  case  held  food  for  four  men  for  one  day.  The  tins,  being 
thoroughly  soldered  down,  could  be  left  exposed  in  the  worst 
weather,  or  dipped  in  water  without  taking  harm.  The  contents 
comprised  nearly  everything  that  was  requisite  except  water  and 
firing.  A great  saving  of  time  was  effected  in  the  field  by 

1 By  persons  having  commercial  relations  with  Ecuador,  it  was  considered  very 
absurd  to  take  food  to  that  country.  I was  told  before  departure  that  everything 
one  could  possibly  want  could  be  obtained  there.  It  is  indeed  true  that  nearly 
everything  may  be  obtained  in  Ecuador.  It  is  also  true  that  we  often  had  great 
difficulty  in  obtaining  anything.  My  surplus  stores  were  sold  to  advantage. 
Medicines  and  other  things  brought  high  prices. 


46 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  iii. 


arranging  the  food  in  this  manner,  and  it  relieved  me  from-  the 
necessity  of  continual  calculations,  and  from  apprehensions  that 
some  of  the  minor  requisites  might  be  forgotten.1 

For  a thousand  feet  above  the  first  camp,  our  reladen  caravan 
progressed  at  a fair  pace,  and  then  (pressure  being  about  17 "250 
inches)  straggling  commenced.  My  own  mule  reached  the  head 
of  the  vallon  (about  16,000  feet  above  the  sea)  without  shewing 
signs  of  exhaustion.  It  then  struck  work,  and  I dismounted. 
So  far,  the  bed  of  the  vallon  was  loose,  sandy  soil,  with  little 

vegetation.  Our  course  then  turned  to  the  right,  that  is  towards 

the  east,  up  the  western  slopes  of  the  south-west  ridge  of  Chim- 
borazo, and  led  by  steeper  gradients  over  firm  ground,  covered 

1 Each  tin  case  contained  : — Ox-cheek,  2 lbs.  ; Mutton,  2 lbs. ; Beef,  2 lbs. ; 
Potted  ham,  one  tin  ; Liebig’s  extract,  2 ozs.,  in  tin ; Preserved  soup,  2 pint  tins ; 
Cocoa  and  milk,  one  tin  ; Condensed  milk,  one  tin  ; Sugar,  4 ozs.  ; Mustard,  1 oz. ; 
Salt,  2 ozs.  ; Pepper,  1 oz.  : Biscuits,  about  2 lbs.,  in  tin  ; Lemonade  powder,  in  tin  ; 
Seidlitz  powders,  in  tin  ; 3 pills  ; small  bottle  of  Chlorodyne  ; Black-currant  and 
cayenne  lozenges,  2 ozs. ; Muscatelles,  12  ozs.  ; Tea,  3 ozs.  These  quantities  were 
found  sufficient,  or  more  than  enough,  with  the  exception  of  sugar.  Irrespective  of 
things  which  were  bought  already  tinned,  more  than  2000  tins  were  soldered  down. 

The  interstices  between  the  circular  tins  were  filled  in  with  candles,  in  tin  tubes, 
and  the  smaller  spaces  were  taken  up  with  bead-necklaces  and  various  articles  for 
presents,  and  t lie  whole  contents  were  jammed  tight  with  cotton  wool,  tow  and 
paper.  Mustard,  pepper,  salt  and  other  small  articles  were  taken  in  glass  bottles 
fitted  into  tin  tubes.  All  the  glass  bottles  were  subsequently  used  for  the  preserva- 
tion of  natural  history  specimens.  There  was  no  waste,  and,  in  consequence  of  the 
care  which  was  taken  in  packing,  not  a single  bottle  was  broken,  and  nothing 
whatever  was  spoiled  or  even  injured  by  damp. 

The  boxes  were  of  the  best  deal,  planed  smooth,  with  rounded  edges  and  corners, 
and  were  double-varnished.  The  lids  were  screwed  down,  and  the  screws  worked 
into  metal  cups,  so  that  the  lids  should  not  be  overscrewed.  Many  of  these  eases 
came  back  in  serviceable  condition. 

Except  when  installed  at  great  heights,  the  food  that  was  arranged  in  this 
manner  was  treated  as  reserved  stock.  At  Guaranda,  and  other  places  where  they 
could  be  obtained,  we  laid  in  fresh  provisions. 

A list  of  the  rest  of  the  outfit  will  be  found  in  Hints  to  Travellers , fifth  edition, 
pp.  284-288.  The  preparation  of  it  occupied  almost  as  much  time  as  the  per- 
formance of  the  journey’. 


CHAP.  III. 


ARRIVAL  AT  THE  SECOND  CAMP. 


47 


with  shattered  blocks  of  lava  fallen  from  the  arete  above.1  I 
patted  and  coaxed  my  animal  on  for  a few  yards,  and  then  it 
stopped  again.  It  clearly  found  difficulty  in  supporting  its  own 
weight.  Bv  continued  encouragement,  it  was  induced  to  advance 
a few  steps  at  a time  ; but  the  halts  became  more  frequent,  and, 
impatient  of  delay,  I pushed  on,  and  left  it  to  pursue  its  course  by 
itself.  Looking  back,  to  see  how  the  rest  were  progressing,  I 
found  that  they  wrere  scattered  over  about  half-a-mile,  and  that 
all  the  animals  were  in  difficulties,  though  none  carried  more 
than  one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds. 

Carrel  had  selected  a position  for  the  second  camp  with  much 
judgment,  at  the  foot  of  a wall  of  lava,  which  perfectly  protected 
the  tent  on  one  side.  The  place  was  easy  of  access,  and  the 

highest  point  to  which  mules  could  be  taken ; with  snow-beds 
in  its  vicinity  that  would  yield  water,  and  ground  round  about 
it  upon  which  we  could  exercise.  The  baggage  animals  struggled 
upwards  one  by  one,  and  by  5.30  p.m.  all  had  arrived.2  The 
barometer  stood  at  this  place  at  sixteen  inches  and  a half. 

AYe  were  all  in  high  spirits.  The  weather  had  been  fine,  and 
the  move  had  been  successfully  effected.  It  was  arranged  that 

one  of  the  arrieros,  F by  name,  should  sleep  at  Tortorillas, 

and  come  up  daily  to  learn  what  was  needed  ; and  all  the  rest  of 
the  troop  were  sent  back  to  Guaranda.  They  left  us  very  gladly  ; 
for  although  we  had  succeeded  in  establishing  our  camp  at  the 
selected  spot,  it  had  only  been  done  by  great  exertions  on  the 
part  of  my  people  and  their  beasts.  The  mules  were  forced  up 
to  the  last  yard  they  could  go,  and  staggering  under  their  burdens 
(which  were  scarcely  more  than  half  the  weight  they  Avere  accus- 
tomed to  carry),  stopped  repeatedly,  and  by  their  trembling, 
falling  on  their  knees,  and  by  their  general  behaviour,  shewed 

1 Upon  any  mule  pass  in  the  Alps,  this  would  have  been  considered  quite 
ordinary,  and  easy  ground. 

2 The  average  time  they  took  in  coming  from  the  first  to  the  second  cainp  was 
two  hours. 


48 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iii. 


that  they  had  been  driven  to 
the  verge  of  exhaustion.  When 
we  others  arrived  at  the  second 
camp,  we  ourselves  were  in  good 
condition, — which  was  to  he  ex- 
pected, as  we  had  ridden  most 
of  the  way ; but  in  about  an 
hour  I found  myself  lying  on 
my  back,  along  with  both  the 
Carrels,  placed  hors  de  combat , 
and  incapable  of  making  the 
least  exertion.  We  knew  that 
the  enemy  was  upon  us,  and  that 
we  were  experiencing  our  first 
attack  of  mountain-sickness. 


THE  SECOND  CAMP  ON  CHIMBORAZO  (16,664  FEET). 


CHAP.  III. 


INCAPABLE. 


49 


We  were  feverish,  had  intense  headaches,  and  were  unable  to 
satisfy  our  desire  for  air,  except  by  breathing  with  open  mouths. 
This  naturally  parched  the  throat,  and  produced  a craving  for 
drink,  which  we  were  unable  to  satisfy, — partly  from  the  difficulty 
in  obtaining  it,  and  partly  from  trouble  in  swallowing  it.  When 
we  got  enough,  we  could  only  sip,  and  not  to  save  our  lives  could 
we  have  taken  a quarter  of  a pint  at  a draught.  Before  a mouth- 
ful was  down,  we  were  obliged  to  breathe  and  gasp  again,  until 
our  throats  were  as  dry  as  ever.  Besides  having  our  normal  rate 
of  breathing  largely  accelerated,  we  found  it  impossible  to  sustain 
life  without  every  now  and  then  giving  spasmodic  gulps,  just 
like  fishes  when  taken  out  of  water.  Of  course  there  was  no 
inclination  to  eat ; but  we  wished  to  smoke,  and  found  that  our 
pipes  almost  refused  to  burn,  for  they,  like  ourselves,  wanted 
more  oxygen. 

This  condition  of  affairs  lasted  all  night,  and  all  the  next  day, 
and  I then  managed  to  pluck  up  spirit  enough  to  get  out  some 
chlorate  of  potash,  which  by  the  advice  of  Dr.  W.  Marcet,  had 
been  brought  in  case  of  need.  Chlorate  of  potash  was,  I believe, 
first  used  in  mountain  travel  by  Dr.  Henderson,  in  the  Karakorum 
range,  and  it  was  subsequently  employed  on  Sir  Douglas  Forsyth’s 
Mission  to  Yarkund  in  1873-4,  apparently  with  good  effect.1 
Before  my  departure.  Dr.  Marcet  (with  whom  I had  been  in  com- 
munication) urged  me  to  experiment,  with  a view  of  confirming 

1 The  surgeon  to  this  expedition  states  that  he  distributed  little  bottles  of  it 
amongst  the  members  of  the  embassy,  and  says  that,  from  his  own  experience,  he 
“can  testify  to  its  value  in  mitigating  the  distressing  symptoms  produced  by  a 
continued  deprivation  of  the  natural  quantity  of  oxygen  in  the  atmosphere.  The 
large  proportion  of  oxygen  contained  in  the  salt  probably  supplies  to  the  blood 
what  in  these  regions  it  fails  to  derive  from  the  air,  and  thus  restores  through 
the  stomach  what  the  lungs  lose.  Whatever  the  explanation  of  its  action,  however, 
there  is  no  doubt  of  its  efficacy  in  relieving  the  dreadful  nausea  and  headache 
produced  by  the  circulation  of  an  inefficiently  oxygenated  blood.” — Kashmir  and 
Kashgar,  by  H.  W.  Bellew,  C.S.l. 

I have  been  informed  by  members  of  this  expedition  that  they  ate,  or  munched, 
dry  chlorate  of  potash. 

H 


50 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  ciiap.  iii. 


these  experiences.  Ten  grains  to  a wine  glass  of  water  was 
the  proportion  he  recommended, — the  dose  to  be  repeated  every 
two  or  three  hours,  if  necessary.  It  appeared  to  me  to  operate 
beneficially,  though  it  must  be  admitted  that  it  was  not  easy  to 
determine,  as  one  might  have  recovered  just  as  well  without 
taking  it  at  all.  At  all  events,  after  taking  it,  the  intensity  of 
the  symptoms  diminished,  there  were  fewer  gaspings,  and  in  some 
degree  a feeling  of  relief. 

Louis  Carrel  also  submitted  himself  to  experiment,  and  seemed 
to  derive  benefit ; but  Jean-Antoine  sturdily  refused  to  take  any 
* doctor’s  stuff/  which  he  regarded  as  an  insult  to  intelligence. 
For  all  human  ills,  for  every  complaint,  from  dysentery  to  want 
of  air,  there  was,  in  his  opinion,  but  one  remedy  ; and  that  was 
Wine ; most  efficacious  always  if  taken  hot,  more  especially  if 
a little  spice  and  sugar  were  added  to  it. 

The  stories  that  he  related  respecting  the  virtues  of  Red  wine 
would  be  enough  to  till  a book.  The  wine  must  be  Red — 
“White  wine,”  he  used  to  say  dogmatically,  “is  bad,  it  cuts  the 
legs.”  Most  of  these  legends  I cannot  remember,  but  there  was 
one  which  it  was  impossible  to  forget,  commencing  thus.  “ Red 
wine  when  heated  and  beaten  up  with  raw  eggs  is  good  for 
many  complaints  — particularly  at  the  Eve  of  St.  John,  when  the 
moon  is  at  the  full,  for  women  who  are  in  the  family  way  ; pro- 
vided  it  is  drunk  whilst  looking  over  the  left  shoulder,  and  ” — I 
never  heard  the  end  of  that  story,  because  I laughed  too  soon. 

His  opinions  upon  things  in  general  were  often  very  original, 
and  1 learned  much  whilst  in  his  company ; amongst  the  rest, 
that,  for  the  cure  of  headache,  nothing  better  can  be  mentioned 
than  keeping  the  head  warm  and  the  feet  cold.  It  is  only  fair 
to  say  that  he  practised  what  he  preached.  I can  remember  no 
more  curious  sight  than  that  of  this  middle-aged  man,  lying 
nearly  obscured  under  a pile  of  ponchos,  with  his  head  bound  up 
in  a wonderful  arrangement  of  handkerchiefs,  vainly  attempting 
to  smoke  a short  pipe  whilst  gasping  like  a choking  cod-fish. 


chap.  hi.  EXEMPLARY  CONDUCT  OF  2IR.  PERRING. 


51 


his  naked  feet  sticking  out  from  underneath  his  blankets  when 
the  temperature  in  the  tent  was  much  below  the  freezing-point. 

Strange  to  relate,  Mr.  Perring  did  not  appear  to  be  affected  at 
all.  Except  for  him  we  should  have  fared  badly.  He  kept  the 
fire  going  — no  easy  task,  for  the  fire  appeared  to  suffer  from 
the  want  of  air  just  like  ourselves,  and  required  such  incessant 
blowing  that  I shall  consider  for  the  future  a pair  of  bellows  an 
indispensable  item  in  a mountaineer's  equipment.  Mr.  Perring 
behaved  on  this  occasion  in  an  exemplary  manner.  He  melted 
snow,  and  brought  us  drink,  and  attended  to  our  wants  in  general, 
and  did  not  seem  any  worse  at  the  second  camp  than  at  Guaranda. 
Yet  he  was  a rather  debilitated  man,  and  was  distinctly  less 
robust  than  ourselves.  He  could  scarcely  walk  on  a flat  road 
without  desiring  to  sit  down,  or  traverse  a hundred  yards  on  a 
mountain  side  without  being  obliged  to  rest. 

It  is  natural  to  enquire  how  can  one  account  for  this  man  of 
enfeebled  constitution  being  unaffected,  Avhen  three  others,  who 
were  all  more  or  less  accustomed  to  high  elevations  (low  press- 
ures), were  rendered,  for  a time,  completely  incapable  ? It  seems 
possible  to  afford  a tolerably  adequate  explanation,  but  it  is  better 
to  reserve  all  comments  upon  our  experiences  until  the  conclusion 
of  the  journey,  and  to  proceed  now  with  the  narrative. 

I was  taken  aback  at  this  early  admonition,  for  I expected 
to  have  been  able  to  sustain  a lower  pressure  without  being 
adversely  affected.  Our  symptoms  did  not  differ  in  any  material 
point  from  those  which  have  already  been  recorded  by  persons 
deserving  of  credence,  and,  so  far,  the  experience  was  not  un- 
expected ; but  they  appeared  earlier  than  was  anticipated,  and, 
when  I got  into  a condition  to  think,  I was  greatly  surprised  at 
the  suddenness  with  which  we  were  overtaken,  and  at  the  fact 
that  we  succumbed  nearly  simultaneously.  It  is  scarcely  exag- 
geration to  say  that  in  one  hour  we  were  all  right,  and  that  in 
the  next  wTe  were  all  wrong.  Two  out  of  the  three  had  already 
visited  the  place  without  being  attacked. 


52 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  ciiap.  hi. 


The  symptoms  come  under  the  three  heads,  headache,  dis- 
turbance of  the  natural  manner  of  respiration,  and  feverishness. 
Headache  with  all  three  of  us  was  intense,  and  rendered  us  almost 
frantic  or  crazy.  Before  6 p.m.  on  Dec.  27,  we  had,  I believe, 
been  entirely  free  from  headache  in  Ecuador.  My  own  continued 
acute  until  the  30th,  and  then  it  disappeared  gradually.  With 
Louis  it  did  not  last  quite  so  long,  and  Jean-Autoine  got  better 
sooner  than  his  cousin.  When  it  was  at  its  maximum  we  all 
seemed  to  be  about  equally  afflicted.  The  interference  with  our 
natural  manner  of  respiration  was  even  more  troublesome.  At 
G p.m.  we  could  move  about,  talk,  or  eat  and  drink  freely,  while 
at  8 p.m.  and  throughout  the  night  of  the  27th,  eating  would 
have  been  impossible,  and  to  talk  or  drink  was  difficult.  We 
could  only  gasp  ejaculations,  or  a few  words  at  a time,  and  efforts 
at  conversation  were  cut  short  by  irrepressible,  spasmodic  gulps ; 
while,  during  the  whole  time,  respiration  was  effected  through 
open  mouths,  the  ordinary  amount  of  air  taken  in  through  the 
nostrils  being  found  inadequate.  We  were  all  feverish,  but  no 
observations  were  made  until  1 p.m.  on  the  28th,  when  my  own 
temperature  was  found  to  be  100° '4  Faht.1  It  was  no  doubt 
considerably  higher  in  the  previous  night.8  On  this  head,  nothing 
can  be  said  in  regard  to  the  Carrels ; for,  though  they  spoke  of 
feverishness,  they  positively  declined  both  then  and  at  all  times 
to  have  their  temperatures  taken. 

It  will  be  understood  from  what  has  just  been  said  that  our 
‘ incapacity’  was  neither  due  to  exhaustion  or  to  deficiency  of 
bodily  strength,  nor  was  owing  to  inability  to  cope  with  mount- 
aineering difficulties  or  to  weakness  from  want  of  food,3  but  was 
caused  by  the  whole  of  our  attention  being  taken  up  in  efforts  to 

i See  Appendix  F for  the  manner  of  observation.  At  Guaranda  on  Dec.  23  my 
temperature  was  98°’2 ; and  at  10.30  a.m.  on  the  27th  it  was  98°'4. 

3 This  was  a cold  night.  The  minimum  thermometer  was  fixed  in  position 
before  we  were  incapacitated,  and  so  I know  that  temperature  on  the  night  of  the 
27th  again  fell  to  21°  Faht. 

3 The  attack  immediately  followed  a meal. 


CHAP.  III. 


LIFE  AT  LOW  PRESSURES. 


53 


get  air  ; and  my  two  assistants,  spontaneously  and  without  any 
questioning  or  prompting  on  my  part,  attributed  the  condition  in 
which  we  found  ourselves  to  the  ‘ rarity  of  the  air  ’ at  our  second 
camp.  There  is  evidence  of  my  own  inability  to  perform  my 
regular  work  in  the  blanks  in  my  journals  at  this  date,  and 
further  evidence  of  the  reality  of  the  attack  in  the  fact  that  we 
could  not  smoke.  Two  out  of  the  three  were  habitual  consumers 
of  tobacco,  and  had  become  slaves  to  this  vice  to  such  an  extent 
that  they  smoked  conscientiously  upon  every  opportunity.  When 
such  persons  put  aside  their  beloved  pipes  there  is  certainly  some- 
thing wrong.  All  three  found  smoking  too  laborious,  and  ceased 
their  efforts  in  a sort  of  despair.  But  it  should  not  he  understood, 
from  anything  which  may  have  been  said,  that  I discussed  the 
subject  with  the  Carrels,  for  I considered  it  best  to  leave  them  in 
ignorance  of  the  fact  that  they  were  the  subjects  of  a scientific 
enquiry. 

There  was  a perceptible  improvement  in  their  condition  on 
the  night  of  Dec.  28,  though  little  in  my  own.  On  the  29th  they 
were  eager  to  he  off  exploring,  and  I sent  them  away  at  7.50  a.m., 
instructing  them  to  continue  the  ascent  of  the  south-west  ridge  ; 
to  look  out  for  a higher  camping-place  ; and  not  to  endeavour  to 
reach  a great  elevation.  Owing  to  my  lifeless  condition,  I should 
only  have  hampered  their  movements  by  accompanying  them, 
and  while  they  were  away  I turned  my  attention  again  to  the 
barometers. 

The  two  mercurial  barometers  arrived  safely  at  the  second 
camp.  One  of  them  (No.  550)  was  stowed  away  in  a cleft  in  the 
rocks,  and  the  other  (Xo.  558)  was  alone  used  on  Chimborazo. 
It  may  be  of  some  service  to  travellers  to  mention  the  precautions 
which  were  taken  in  regard  to  these  instruments. 

There  are  two  principal  reasons  why  so  many  mercurial  baro- 
meters are  broken  in  the  field.  1.  Because  they  are  insufficiently 
protected  when  in  transit ; and  2.  because  a bad  method  of  sus- 
pension is  employed  when  they  are  being  observed.  Mountain 


54 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  hi. 


barometers  are  usually  sent  out  by  their  makers  in  a zinc-lined 
leather  case  (similar  to  that  shewn  in  the  annexed  figure),  and 
are  carried  slung  by  straps  across  the  shoulder,  the  large  ends 


uppermost,  — that  is  to  say, 
with  cisterns  reversed.  These 
cases  may  give  enough  protec- 
tion if  the  instruments  are 
carried  along  a road,  or  over 
easy  ground,  but  they  do  not 
afford  sufficient  to  withstand 
the  shocks,  jolts,  and  accidents 
of  travel.  Sometimes  the  case 
is  actually  crushed  in  upon  the 
tube,  and  in  other  instances  the 
tube  is  broken  by  concussion, 
although  the  case  may  not  be 
injured.  Each  of  the  ordinary 
cases  of  my  barometers  was 
again  enclosed  in  a wooden 
box,  with  deal  sides  and  oak 
ends,  and  was  padded  all  around 
with  a quantity  of  tow  to 
deaden  concussion.  They  were 
always  carried  on  the  back, 
upright,  with  the  large  ends 
uppermost,  and  were  kept  in 
position  by  knapsack  straps. 
Although  they  were  treated 
with  the  utmost  care,  they 
had  to  sustain  many  accidental 
knocks  and  jars,  and  upon 
several  occasions  Jean -Antoine 
his  beast,  as  best  he  could,  to  t 


had  to  hastily  throw  himself  off 
roid  an  utter  smash.1 


1 Each  barometer  in  its  case,  as  supplied  by  the  maker,  weighed  6 lbs.  Each 
additional  wooden  case  weighed  (U  lbs.  more. 


CHAP.  III. 


METHOD  OF  SUSPENSION. 


55 


The  stand  usually  supplied  by  instrument  makers  (see  Fig.  1) 
is  one  of  the  worst  that  can  be  devised  for  use  out  of  doors.  It  is 
bad  because  the  base  (D  E F)  of  the  pyramid  formed  by  the  tripod 
is  not  large  enough  in  proportion  to  its  height  ; because  the  point 
of  suspension  (A)  of  the  barometer  (B  C)  is  much  too  low  ; because 
the  legs  (A  D,  A E,  A F)  of  the  tripod  are  fixed  in  a rigid  position, 
and  cannot  be  set  in  or  out  to  accommodate  the  irregularities  of 
the  ground  ; and  upon  snow  it  is  nearly  useless  because  these  thin 
metal  legs  sink  in  to  or  beyond  the  cistern  (C)  before  a sufficient 
foundation  can  be  obtained.  A moderate  breeze  puts  the  baro- 
meter in  movement  (though  it  should  be  perfectly  at  rest  for  a 
good  observation)  and  a slight  knock  may  make  it  oscillate  from 
G to  H.  If  the  cistern  should  swing  as  far  as  X the  stand  will 
overturn,  and  the  barometer  almost  certainly  will  be  destroyed. 


I discarded  the  usual  method  of  suspension,  and  hung  the 
barometers  from  the  stands  belonging  to  the  theodolite  (A  j K L, 
Fig.  2).  The  stability  of  these  stands  is  infinitely  greater  than 
that  of  the  form  usually  employed  ; their  legs  can  be  set  in  and 
out  to  meet  the  requirements  of  each  occasion  ; and,  when  hung 
in  the  manner  shewn  in  the  diagram,  barometers  have  little  tend- 
ency to  swing  to  and  fro.  No  shock  that  is  likely  to  occur  will 


FIG.  I. 


FIG.  2. 


56 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  hi. 


make  the  cisterns  move  from  M to  N — though,  if  they  did  so, 
the  stands  would  not  be  overturned.  The  actual  method  of 

suspension  at  A,  Fig.  2,  is 
a device  of  my  own,  and  is 
shewn  in  the  accompanying 
engraving,  which  renders 
description  unnecessary.  To 
set  out  a theodolite  stand 
and  hang  a barometer  in 
position  upon  this  catch  is 
an  affair  of  a few  seconds, 
while  if  the  ordinary  stand 
is  employed  minutes  are 
occupied  in  the  operation. 

The  mercurial  barometer 
read  16-476  inches  at  11 
a.m.  on  Dec.  28,  16-488 
inches  on  the  29th,  and 
16-480  on  the  30th.  Mr. 
Chambers,  at  Guayaquil, 
made  simultaneous  obser- 
vations on  the  28th  and  29th,  and  found  no  change  in  pressure 
on  the  latter  day.  But  while  the  mercurials  were  demonstrating 
the  remarkable  stability  of  the  barometer  in  Ecuador  the  aneroids 


showed  lower 

pressures  on  each  successive 

day. 

Dec.  28, 

Dec.  29 

Dec.  30, 

Place  of 

1879. 

1879. 

1879. 

Observation. 

Barometer. 

11  a.m. 

11  a.m. 

11  a.m. 

inches. 

inches. 

inches. 

Second  Camp  . 

3Ierc.  Bar.  Xo.  558  (corrected) 

16-476 

16-488 

16-480 

Guayaquil 

do.  Xo.  554  ( do.  ) 

29-910 

29-910 

Second  Camp  . 

Means  of  six  Aneroids 

15-643 

15-611 

15"577 

Do. 

Errors  of  means  of  Aneroids  . 

-0-833 

-0-877 

-0  903 

Do. 

Aneroid  F .... 

15-300 

15-300 

15-280 

Do. 

Error  of  Aneroid  F • 

-1-176 

-1-188 

-1-200 

CHAP.  III. 


CONFLICTING  STA  TEN  ENTS. 


57 


At  the  last  reference  to  Aneroid  F (p.  38)  its  error  amounted 
to  —1-080  of  an  inch.  At  the  first  camp  on  Chimborazo  it  was 
increased  to  —1-152  of  an  inch,  and  from  the  above  record  it  will 
be  seen  that  it  still  augmented  daily. 

Thus,  while  the  mercurial  barometer  shewed  a slight  increase 
in  pressure,  the  whole  of  the  aneroids,  on  the  other  hand,  indicated 
pressure  diminishing.1  If  I had  depended  upon  the  latter  instru- 
ments, atmospheric  pressure  in  Ecuador,  instead  of  appearing,  as 
it  is,  remarkably  steady,2  would  have  seemed  liable  to  large  fluc- 
tuations, and  very  erroneous  suppositions  might  have  been  based 
upon  these  observations  ; or  if  the  altitude  of  the  second  camp  had 
been  deduced  from  the  means  of  the  six  aneroids  it  would  have 
come  out  about  1500  feet  too  high,  through  adopting  a pressure 
for  the  upper  station  nine-tenths  of  an  inch  lower  than  the  truth. 

The  behaviour  of  these  aneroids  was  so  anomalous  and  per- 
plexing that  I felt  greatly  inclined  to  read  them  no  more  ; and 
it  was  only  the  apprehension  of  disaster  to  the  mercurials  that 
induced  me  to  continue  to  occupy  my  time  in  recording  obser- 
vations which  appeared  perfectly  worthless.  From  subsequent 
experiments  in  the  workshop 3 it  has  been  found  that  their  be- 
haviour is  neither  exceptional  nor  unintelligible ; but  when  we 
were  upon  Chimborazo  it  puzzled  me  exceedingly,  and  I rushed 
to  the  conclusion  that  I had  not  been  well  served,  and  that  my 
aneroids  were  emphatically  a bad  lot. 

Our  camp  was  situated  on  the  southern  side  of  a rather  con- 
spicuous gap  in  the  ridge,  and  a large  rectangular  mass  of  lava 
against  which  the  tent  was  placed  made  a good  landmark,  which 
was  rendered  still  more  apparent  by  one  of  our  long  poles  that 
was  fixed  up  as  a signal.  Below  us,  our  ridge  spread  out  con- 
siderably as  it  approached  the  Arenal,  and  above  us  it  led  for  a 
long  distance  towards  the  western  dome. 

On  our  right  or  east,  looking  towards  the  summits,  there  was 

1 See  IIow  to  use  the  Aneroid  Barometer , p.  35,  § 40.  2 See  Appendix  B. 

3 How  to  use  the  Aneroid  Barometer,  pp.  15-34. 

I 


58 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  ciiap.  iii. 


a basin  occupied  by  a glacier  (the  Glacier  de  Debris,  about  which 
I shall  speak  more  particularly  presently)  terminating  in  a vallon 
leading  down  to  the  Arenal.  On  the  farther  or  eastern  side  of 
this  glacier  there  was  another  ridge  that  carried,  opposite  to  our 
camp,  a rather  prominent  secondary  peak,  which  we  dubbed  — 
from  its  situation  and  from  a fancied  resemblance  to  the  Mont 
Blanc  aiguille  — the  Aiguille  du  Midi.  This,  and  another  smaller 
one  that  we  called  the  Aiguille  du  Geant,  being  higher  than  our 
station,  shut  out  much  of  the  vista  to  the  east.  The  ridge  of 
which  they  formed  part  did  not  extend  to  so  great  a height  as 
our  own.  It  became  lost  amid  the  snow  and  scattered  rocks 
shewn  upon  the  right  of  the  view  facing  p.  24,  and  over  its  higher 
extremity,  in  the  early  morning,  we  could  occasionally  see  some  of 
the  tumultuous  glacier  which  covers  a great  part  of  the  eastern 
side  of  Chimborazo,  with  its  numerous  crevasses  and  gigantic 
schrunds.  Over  these  slopes  and  schruiuls  clouds  gathered  cease- 
lessly, tantalizing  us  when  they  were  whirled  aloft  and  torn  into 
shreds,  only  to  be  replaced  in  a few  seconds  by  equally  impene- 
trable mists  manufactured  from  invisible  vapours. 

On  the  left  or  west  of  our  ridge  there  was  the  Vallon  de 
Carrel,  up  which  we  had  come  ; and  at  the  head  of  this  there  was 
glacier  E (Glacier  de  Thielmann)  of  my  map,  that  has  its  origin 
in  the  crown  of  the  western  dome.  The  farther  or  northern  side 
of  this  glacier  was  bounded  by  a long  and  serrated  ridge  which 
terminated  the  view  in  that  direction. 

Above  the  camp,  rising  500  feet  higher  at  an  angle  of  about 
35°,  our  ridge  was  covered  with  disintegrated  lava  mingled  with 
patches  of  sand  ; a stony  waste,  easy  enough  to  traverse, — Mr. 
Perring,  indeed,  could  ascend  or  descend  it  by  himself.  Up  to 
this  elevation  (nearly  17,200  feet)  Chimborazo  could  be  ascended 
in  the  month  of  January  without  touching  snow  ! The  crest  or 
arete  of  the  ridge  then  rose  for  some  distance  at  a less  abrupt 
angle,  and  was  occupied  by  jagged  blocks  or  pinnacles  of  lava 
which  concealed  its  continuation  in  the  rear.  Except  by  looking 


CHAP.  III. 


59 


“ THE  THING  IS  CERTAIN 

at  the  ridge  in  full  front  from  Guaranda,  I did  not  know  what 
was  behind.  The  Carrels  had  disappeared  amongst  the  craggy  lavas, 
and  as  I had  selected  this  as  the  line  of  ascent,  and  could  not  see 
a practicable  route  either  to  the  right  or  left,  I awaited  the  return 
of  my  assistants  with  some  anxiety.  Night  had  almost  set  in 
before  they  were  descried  coming  down  the  slope  that  rose  from 
the  camp,  and  it  was  cjuite  dark  when  they  arrived  at  the  tent, 
almost  breathless,  scarcely  able  to  keep  on  their  legs,  staggering 
under  their  own  weight  ! They  threw  themselves  down  and  went 
to  sleep  without  either  eating  or  drinking,  and  I did  not  hear 
their  report  until  the  next  day. 

Misled  by  the  time  that  had  been  occupied,  they  believed 
they  had  reached  a very  great  height.  [I  found  subsequently 
that  they  had  got  to  about  19,300  feet  above  the  sea.]  “ The 
thing  is  certain,”  said  Jean- Antoine  joyously,  by  which  he  meant 
Chimborazo  could  be  ascended.  However  that  might  be,  their 
condition,  and  the  length  of  time  they  had  been  absent,  led  me 
to  the  conclusion  that  our  present  location  was  not  high  enough 
as  a starting-point,  and  that  another  move  upwards  must  be 
made,  though  they  said  that  there  was  no  other  place  at  which 
we  could  properly  encamp. 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th  Jean-Antoine  was  crippled  by 
inflammation  of  the  eyes,  and  had  to  submit  to  be  doctored  with 
a solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  but  his  cousin  was  sufficiently  re- 
vived in  the  afternoon  to  be  sent  with  Perring  down  to  the  depot 
to  fetch  the  tent  which  was  to  be  advanced  to  the  third  camp. 
They  returned  at  nightfall,  having  found  it  as  much  as  they  could 
carry,  though  it  weighed  only  35  lbs.,  a load  which  the  athletic 
Louis  would  have  thought  a trifle  at  lower  elevations  (higher  press- 
ures). The  minimum  at  our  camp  this  night  was  20° -5  Faht. 

On  the  31st,  the  Carrels  and  I (each  carrying  a few  small 
things)  went  up  the  ridge  to  select  a camping-place  ; and,  finding 
that  no  protection  could  be  obtained  at  a higher  point,  decided 
to  plant  ourselves  amongst  the  broken  lava,  close  to  the  crest 


60 


TRA  T ELS  AMOR  GST  7 1 ! E GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  hi. 


of  the  ridge,  on  its  eastern  side,  at  a height  of  17,285  feet  (mere, 
bar.  at  1 p.m.  read  16 *081  inches).  The  position  was  a bad  and 
exposed  one,  and  it  was  a troublesome  matter  to  clear  space  suffi- 
cient even  for  onr  small  tent.  That  done,  we  returned  to  the 
second  camp,  and  shortly  afterwards  our  arriero-courier  arrived, 
convoying  three  Indians  who  had  been  sent  by  the  authorities 


at  Guaranda,  in  response  to 
my  application,  to  replace 
the  others  who  had  bolted, 
b After  feeding  them  well,  to 
give  them  a little  confidence,  they 

THIRD  CAMP  ON  CHIMBORAZO.  J 

were  at  once  despatched,  under 
the  care  of  the  Carrels,  carrying  baggage  to  the  third  camp. 

The  arriero  (F -)  also  brought  intelligence  that  the  depot 

had  been  broken  into  and  robbed,  and  I accordingly  sent  him 
back  to  watch  the  stores,  and  Perring  to  Guaranda,  with  a written 
request  to  the  Jefo-politico  to  supply  a guard  for  the  baggage 
so  long  as  we  remained  on  the  mountain.  When  the  Indians 


CHAP.  III. 


THE  OX-CHEEK  OF  CHICAGO. 


61 


returned  at  the  end  of  the  afternoon  particular  pains  were  taken 
to  keep  them  in  a good  humour.  They  were  well  fed  and  petted, 
provided  with  wraps,  had  shelter  rigged  up  for  them,  and  a good 
fire  made.  Yet  I fully  expected  they  would  desert  us,  and  “was 
quite  surprised  in  the  morning  to  find  that  they  were  remaining. 
The  minimum  temperature  in  this  night  was  again  20°.  5 Falit. 

It  will  be  inferred  from  the  last  paragraphs  that  we  were 
now  in  a somewhat  better  condition.  The  more  disagreeable 
symptoms  of  our  mountain-sickness  had  disappeared,  the  gasp- 
ings  had  ceased,  and  headache  had  nearly  gone.  Still,  although 
improving,  we  found  ourselves  comparatively  lifeless  and  feeble, 
with  a strong  disposition  to  sit  down  when  we  ought  to  have 
been  moving,  and  there  was  plenty  at  that  time  to  keep  us  moving 
— mainly  owing  to  the  unpleasant  discovery  that  some  of  our 
tinned  meat  had  gone  bad. 

I had  invested  in  a quantity  of  ox-cheek,  and  one  tin  of  it 
had  been  placed  in  each  case.  Upon  opening  the  very  first  case 
it  was  noticed  that  the  ends  of  the  ox-cheek  tin  were  convex, 
and  knowing  what  this  meant,  I had  it  thrown  away  at  once. 
With  one  after  another  we  found  the  same  and  acted  similarly  ; 
but  at  last,  upon  opening  another  case,  a most  appalling  stench 
rushed  out,  and  we  found  that  the  ox-cheek  had  burst  its  bonds, 
and  had  not  only  become  putrid  itself,  but  had  corroded  the  other 
tins  and  ruined  almost  the  whole  of  the  food  in  the  case.  It 
then  became  necessary  to  examine  each  case  seriatim,  to  know 
exactly  how  we  were  off  for  food,  and  the  end  of  the  matter  was 
we  found  ourselves  obliged  to  hurl  over  the  cliffs  a mass  of  pro- 
visions which  had  cost  endless  trouble  to  prepare.1 

1 I promised  the  manufacturer  of  that  horrible  stufE  an  advertisement  upon 
my  return,  but  1 am  deprived  of  the  pleasure  of  fulfilling  my  promise.  I am 
advised  that  it  might  be  considered  libellous  to  publish  the  name  of  a person 
who  has  sold  putrid  meat,  and  I much  regret  that  it  cannot  be  given  the  publicity 
that  he  deserves.  He  caused  much  loss  and  severe  labour.  The  whole  of  the 
provision  cases  had  to  be  opened  and  his  goods  ejected.  In  instances  where  the 
ox- cheek  had  burst,  its  stench  rendered  it  necessary  to  scrape  and  cleanse  all 


62 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iii. 


On  January  1,  1880,  leaving  the  Carrels  to  continue  this 

repulsive  work,  I went  down  to  inspect  the  depot,  where  F 

was  remaining  as  watchman,  and  took  the  three  Indians  to  col- 
lect firewood,  as  our  stock  was  getting  low.  The  majority  of 
the  boxes  were  too  solid  to  be  broken  open,  and  pilfering  I found 
had  been  confined  to  a wine  case  (from  which  six  bottles  were 
abstracted)  and  to  a flimsy  trunk  belonging  to  Perring.  Having 
despatched  the  Indians  upwards  with  their  loads  of  wood,  I fol- 
lowed them  leisurely,  searching  in  the  Yallon  de  Carrel  for  treas- 
ures that  had  no  attractions  for  the  authorities  at  Guaranda.1 
The  Indians  saw  their  opportunity,  and  upon  return  to  camp 
1 discovered  that  they  had  dropped  their  loads  and  brought  up 
no  wood  whatever  ; and,  having  stealthily  picked  up  their  little 
bundles  of  belongings  under  the  very  noses  of  the  Carrels,  had 
vanished,  like  the  others. 

The  labour  of  porterage  was  again  thrown  upon  Jean-Antoine 
and  Louis,  who  bore  their  burdens  cheerfully,  and  started  off  at 
an  early  hour  on  Jan.  2 with  a couple  of  loads  to  the  third 
camp.  About  10  a.m.  Perring  made  his  appearance,  accompanied 
by  two  persons  in  uniform,  carrying  rifles,  and  a muleteer  and 
boy  with  a load  of  wood.  I recognised  ‘the  guard,’  but  desired 

the  other  packages  in  the  ease  several  times  with  soap  and  water,  and  to  rub 
them  bright  with  sand,  before  we  could  venture  to  open  them.  When  opened, 
we  found  that  the  stench  had  often  penetrated  the  joints  of  the  tins,  and  rendered 
their  contents  unfit  for  consumption.  The  worst  part  of  the  business,  however, 
was  the  prejudice  that  it  caused  against  the  rest  of  the  tinned  food,  all  of  which 
was  found  to  be  unexceptionable,  unless  it  had  been  defiled  by  the  ox-cheek. 
Some  of  my  followers  flatly  refused  to  touch  any  of  it. 

Messrs.  Crosse  and  Blackwell  did  not  supply  the  ox-cheek  and  did  supply 
some  of  the  rest;  and,  as  one  would  expect,  their  goods  were  found  satisfactory. 
Their  preserved  soups,  in  particular,  were  excellent  for  our  purposes. 

1 In  this  ration  I found  roches  moutonnees  several  miles  lower  than  the  existing 
Glacier  de  Thielmann;  and  I obtained  in  it  most  of  the  insects  and  plants  which 
are  enumerated  in  Chapters  V.  and  XVIII.  At  a little  less  than  15,000  feet 
above  the  sea  I found  a solitary  fern  ( Iblypodiuni  pycnolepis , Kze.).  This  is  the 
greatest  height  at  which  a representative  of  this  family  was  obtained  on  the 
journey. 


CHAP.  III. 


FLIGHT  OF  THE  GUARD. 


63 


an  introduction  to  the  others,  and  found  that  Mr.  Perring  had 

suspected  that  F was  the  thief,  and  had  thoughtfully  engaged 

a fresh  arriero  as  courier,  before  arresting  our  late  one,  who  was 
now  a prisoner  and  on  his  way  to  Guaranda  in  charge  of  two 
of  my  guards  ; 1 whilst  the  other  pair  had  taken  the  earliest  oppor- 
tunity to  wait  upon  me,  not  to  pay  their  respects,  but  to  state 
that  unless  they  were  paid  eightpence  each  per  day,  punctually 
every  day,  they  would  take  themselves  off.  I assured  them  that 
it  would  give  us  the  greatest  pleasure  to  see  one  of  them  every 
day,  punctually,  at  the  third  camp,  to  receive  the  four  eight- 
pences,  and  appointed  Mr.  Perring  paymaster ; but  they  took 
themselves  off,  I neither  know  when  nor  where,  and  relieved 
us  from  all  trouble  on  their  account,  except  the  •settlement  of  a 
bill  from  the  authorities  at  Guaranda  for  services  which  had  not 
been  rendered. 

They  did  not,  however,  depart  from  the  second  camp  until 
we  had  shewn  them  the  way  to  the  third  one.  Their  unexpected 
visit  was  too  good  an  opportunity  to  be  lost.  I impressed  every 
one  to  assist  in  tbe  move,  and  at  tbe  end  of  tbe  afternoon  we 
had  got  three  weeks’  provisions  at  the  upper  station.  The  second 
camp  was  then  left  to  take  care  of  itself,  with  tbe  tent  standing, 
and  a good  supply  of  food  and  firing  alongside.  A line  of  com- 
munication was  now  fairly  established.  However  bad  tbe  weather, 
we  could  always  retreat  upon  the  second  camp,  and  from  it  to 
tbe  depot  near  the  first  one,  scarcely  more  than  two  hours  from 
Tortorillas,  where  we  could  communicate  with  Guaranda ; and 
tbe  word  was  given  tbe  same  afternoon  that  Chimborazo  was 
to  be  assaulted  on  tbe  next  morning. 

At  5.35  a.m.2  on  Jan.  3,  we  left  tbe  tent,  and,  scrambling 

1 This  was  done  without  my  approval  or  knowledge.  There  did  not  seem  to 
be  any  evidence  against  this  man  ; and,  it  there  had  been,  we  could  not  have 
obtained  Ins  conviction  without  the  witnesses  which  were  necessary  (according  to 
Mr.  Perring)  to  satisfy  the  law  of  Ecuador. 

2 There  was  seldom  light  enough  for  travelling  over  unfamiliar  ground  earlier 
than  5.30  a.m. 


04 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap  hi. 


through  the  shattered  lava  behind  it,  crossed  the  arete  and 
emerged  on  the  western  side  of  the  ridge.  There  was  then  the 
view  before  us  that  is  given  on  the  opposite  page.  The  western 
dome,  which  had  been  hidden  during  part  of  the  ascent,  again 
became  conspicuous ; crowning  wall-like  cliffs  of  lava,  that  grew 
more  and  more  imposing  as  we  advanced.  As  regards  the  western 
summit,  there  are  two  series  of  these  cliffs — the  upper  ones  imme- 
diately underneath  the  dome,  surmounted  by  sheer  precipices  of 
ice,  and  the  lower  ones  at  the  end  of  a spur  thrown  out  towards 
the  south-west.  These  lower  cliffs  are  neither  so  extensive  nor  as 
perpendicular  as  the  upper  ones,1  and  they  are  crowned  by  snow, 
not  by  glacier.  Our  ridge  led  up  to  their  base,  and  at  the  junction 
there  was  a want  of  continuity  rather  than  a distinct  breach  in 
the  walls.2  This  was  the  spot  which,  when  examining  the  mount- 
ain on  Dec.  21,  at  a distance  of  sixteen  miles,  we  had  unani- 
mously regarded  as  the  critical  point,  so  far  as  an  ascent  was 
concerned  (see  pp.  25,  2(5). 

Up  to  this  place  the  course  was  straightforward.  In  the  imme- 
diate foreground,  and  extending  upwards  for  500  or  600  feet,  large 
beds  of  snow  in  good  condition  covered  the  ridge.  The  pinnacle 
or  aiguille  near  at  hand  was  upon  the  arete  or  crest  of  it,  and 
the  two  others  shewn  in  the  engraving  upon  p.  41  were  higher 
up  on  the  right  hand  or  eastern  side.  The  ridge  itself  appears 
to  be  fundamentally  an  old  flow  of  lava.  Rock  specimens  which 
were  taken  in  sit'll  at  various  elevations,  though  differing  to  some 
extent  in  external  appearance,  are  nearly  identical  in  composition,3 
and  1 have  no  doubt  that  several,  at  least,  of  the  other  principal 

> They  are  seen  in  t lie  view  facing  p.  34,  which  is  taken  from  almost  precisely 
the  same  direction  as  that  facing  this  page,  though  at  a much  lower  level. 

3 Marked  Z on  the  Sketch,  plan  of  part  of  the.  Southern  side  of  Chimborazo. 

3 “This  rock  (from  the  second  camp,  in- situ)  is  a dullish  lavender-grey  colour, 
with  crystals  of  glassy  felspars  up  to  about  '1  inch  long,  and  some  minute  blackish 
specks,  which  weather  rather  a reddish  colour.  I think  it  very  probable  that  a 
little  sanidine  is  present  among  the  felspars.  The  rock  is  a variety  of  the  liyper- 
stheniferous  augite-andesites. 


CHIMBORAZO,  FROM  A LITTLE  ABOVE  THE  THIRD  CAMP. 


PHOTOGRAPHED  AT  17  450  FEET. 


CHAP.  III. 


THE  ASCENT  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 


65 


ridges  of  this  mountain  were  originally  lava-streams.  Their 
normal  appearance  has  been  largely  modified  ; much  is  covered 
up  by  snow,  the  exposed  portions  have  been  greatly  decomposed 
and  eroded,  and  lie  almost  buried  underneath  their  own  ruins. 

After  these  convenient  snow-beds  were  traversed  our  ridge 
steepened  — both  as  regards  its  arete,  and  the  angles  of  the 
slopes  on  each  side  ; and  became  in  part  covered  by  pure  ice, 
and  partly  by  ice  mingled  with  small  stones  and  grit.  W hen 
this  conglomerate  was  hard  frozen,  it  enabled  us  to  ascend  with- 
out step-cutting ; but  the  debris  often  reposed  uncemented  on 
the  surface,  and  rendered  caution  as  well  as  hard  labour  neces- 
sary. I found  here,  scattered  over  about  fifty  feet,  rather 
numerous  fragments  of  partly  fossilized  bones.  Sir  Richard 
Owen,  to  whom  they  were  submitted,  pronounced  them  to  be 
“the  bones  of  some  ruminant.’”  The  unhappy  ruminant  most 
likely  did  not  come  there  voluntarily,  and  I conjecture  that  it 
was  conveyed  to  this  lofty  spot,  either  entire  or  in  part,  by  a 
condor  or  some  other  bird  of  prey,  to  be  devoured  at  leisure. 

At  7.30  a.m.  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  lower  series  of 
the  Southern  Walls  of  Chimborazo,  and  the  termination  of  the 

“The  specimen  taken  near  the  third  camp,  and  representing  the  rock  which 
prevails  throughout  the  ridge  by  which  the  first  ascent  was  made,  is  a rock  maero- 
scopically  related  to  the  one  last  described,  but  is  a little  redder  in  colour,  more 
vesicular  in  structure,  and  with  slightly  larger  crystals  of  felspar  (up  to  about 
ith  inch  diameter).  So  far  as  the  base  and  its  included  mieroliths  are  concerned, 
there  is  little  to  add  to  the  preceding  description,  except  that  a dusty  ferrite  is  rather 
abundant,  as  the  colour  of  the  rock  would  lead  us  to  expect,  the  larger  crystals  of 
felspar  do  not  materially  differ  from  those  already  described,  liypersthene  is  abundant, 
undoubted  augite  being  rare,  and  there  are  two  or  three  small  crystals  of  a strongly 
dichroic  hornblende.  Also  one  or  two  crystals  of  what  appears  to  be  an  iron  mica. 
The  predominance  of  liypersthene  entitles  this  to  the  name  of  a liypersthene-ande- 
site.”— Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney,  F.R.S.,  Proc.  Royal  Soc.,  No.  232,  June  19,  1884. 

The  whole  of  the  rocks  collected  upon  this  journey  were  submitted  to  Professor 
Bonney,  by  whom  they  were  described  in  the  Proceedings  of  the  Royal  Society  in 
a series  of  five  papers' (Jan.  31-Xov.  27,  1884).  Prof.  Bonney  has  also  favoured 
me  with  the  summary  which  will  be  found  at  pp.  140-143  of  the  Supplementary 
Appendix  to  this  volume. 

K 


66 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iii. 


south-west  ridge.  Then  the  axes  went  to  work,  and  the  cliffs 
resounded  with  the  strokes  of  the  two  powerful  cousins,  who 
lost  no  time  in  exploration,  as  they  had  already  passed  this 
place  on  Dec.  29.  The  breach  in  the  walls  (for  so  it  must  be 
termed  from  want  of  a better  expression)  rose  at  an  angle 
exceeding  50°,  and  here,  for  the  same  reason  as  upon  the  arete 
we  had  quitted,  snow  could  not  accumulate  to  any  depth,  and 
the  major  part  of  the  daily  fall  slid  away  in  streams,  or  tiny 
avalanches,  down  to  the  less  abrupt  slopes  beneath ; while  the 
residue,  dissolved  and  refrozen,  glazed  the  projecting  rocks,  and 
filled  their  interstices  with  solid  ice.  Thus  far  and  no  farther  a 
man  may  go  who  is  not  a mountaineer.  To  our  party  it  caused 
only  a temporary  check,  for  the  work  was  enchanting  to  the 
Carrels  after  the  uncongenial  labour  in  which  they  had  been 
employed,  and  during  a short  time  we  made  good  progress  — 
then,  all  at  once,  we  were  brought  to  a halt.  Wind  had  been 
rising  during  the  last  half-hour,  and  now  commenced  to  blow 
furiously.  It  was  certain  we  could  not  reach  the  summit  on  that 
day  ; so,  getting  down  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  depositing  the 
instruments  and  baggage  in  crannies  in  the  cliffs  after  reading 
the  barometer,1  we  fled  for  refuge  to  the  tent,  holding  ourselves, 
however,  in  readiness  to  start  again  on  the  next  morning. 

Under  the  small  further  diminution  in  pressure  which  was 

1 At  8 a.ra.  on  Jan.  3,  the  air  temperature  in  the  shade  was22°'5  Falil.,  and  at 
the  same  time  the  mercurial  barometer  (corrected  for  temperature)  read  15'2~0  inches. 

I ascended  again  to  this  {dace  on  Jan.  6 to  obtain  an  observation  at  11  a.m. 
On  this  occasion  the  air  temperature  in  the  shade  was  49°'5  Faht.,  and  the  mercurial 
barometer  (reduced  to  32°)  read  15 '298  inches.  There  was  a simultaneous  observa- 
tion by  Mr.  Chambers  at  Guayaquil.  The  height  adopted  (18,528  feet)  is  the  mean 
of  the  altitudes  deduced  from  the  observations  made  upon  these  two  days. 

The  difference  of  level  between  the  third  cam])  and  the  foot  of  the  lower  series 
of  the  Southern  Walls  of  Chimborazo  amounts  to  1243  feet.  We  occupied  115 
minutes  in  ascending  and  30  minutes  in  descending  that  amount.  The  descent 
was  effected  at  the  rate  of  41  feet  per  minute,  an<l  ice  could  not  have  gone  much 
faster.  This  rate  may  be  compared  with  those  mentioned  upon  pp.  31,  32,  which 
it  is  stated  were  maintained  over  courses  three  or  four  times  as  long. 


CIIAP.  III. 


PASSAGE  OF  “ THE  BREACH:' 


67 


experienced  this  day  (seven-tenths  of  an  inch),  no  very  marked 
effects  ensued.  The  most  noticeable  points  were  the  lassitude  with 
which  Ave  were  pervaded,  and  the  readiness  with  which  we  sat  down. 
Atmospheric  pressure  varied  little  at  the  third  camp.  At  6 p.m., 
on  Jan.  2,  the  mercurial  barometer  (red.  to  32°)  read  15 '992  inches, 
and  at  5 a.m.,  on  Jan.  3,  15’974  inches  ; but  the  aneroids  con- 
tinued to  lose  upon  the  mercurial,  and  their  mean  error  on  Jan. 
4-5  had  risen  to  — 0’974  of  an  inch,  from  —0-9(13  in.  when  they 
were  last  compared  at  the  second  camp  (see  p.  56).  Two  were 
already  nearly  out  of  range  ; another  couple  were  out  of  order  ; and 
two  others  alone  remained  serviceable  for  yet  lower  pressures. 

We  again  started  from  the  third  camp  on  Jan.  4,  at  5.40  a.m. 
The  morning  was  fine  and  nearly  cloudless,  and  profiting  by  the 
track  made  on  the  previous  day  we  proceeded  at  first  at  a fair 
rate  and  finished  the  escalade  of  “ the  breach  ” at  about  eight 
o’clock.  Then  bearing  away  to  the  left,1  at  first  over  snow  and 
then  over  snow-covered  glacier,  we  mounted  in  zigzags,  to  ease 
the  ascent.  The  great  schrunds  at  the  head  of  the  Glacier  de 
Thielmann  were  easily  avoided  ; the  smaller  crevasses  were  not 
troublesome  ; and  the  snow  was  in  good  order,  though  requiring 
steps  to.  be  cut  in  it.  Jean-Antoine  Carrel  led,  and  my  orders  to 
him  at  starting  were  that  we  were  to  go  slowly  — the  rest  was 
left  to  his  discretion.  I noticed,  at  this  stage,  that  his  paces 
got  shorter  and  shorter,  until  at  last  the  toe  of  one  step  almost 
touched  the  heel  of  the  previous  one.  At  about  10  a.m.,  at  a 
height  of  19,400  feet,  we  passed  the  highest  exposed  rocks,  which 
were  scoriaceous  lava,  apparently  in  consolidated  beds,2  and  for 

1 Our  track  at  this  part  of  the  ascent  is  shewn  in  dotted  line  upon  the  view 
facing  p.  24. 

2 Exposed  in  patches,  about  twelve  feet  long,  projecting  a few  feet  above  the 
snow.  The  Carrels  got  nearly  as  far  as  these  rocks  upon  December  29. 

“A  slightly  scoriaceous  lava,  rough  to  the  touch,  almost  purple-black  in  colour, 
with  numerous  very  minute  specks  of  a glassy  felspar.  Except  that  the  base  is 
rendered  rather  more  opaque  by  disseminated  opacite,  it  does  not  differ  materially 
from  several  already  described.  There  are  the  usual  crystals  of  felspar,  one  or  two 


68 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iii. 


some  distance  farther  we  continued  to  progress  at  a reasonable 
rate,  having  line  weather  and  a good  deal  of  sunshine. 

At  about  11  a.m.  we  fancied  we  saw  the  Pacific,  above  the 
clouds  which  covered  the  whole  of  the  intervening  flat  country  ; 
and  shortly  afterwards  commenced  to  enter  the  plateau  which  is 
at  the  top  of  the  mountain,  having  by  this  time  made  half  the 
circuit  of  the  western  dome.  We  were  then  twenty  thousand  feet 
high,  and  the  summits  seemed  within  our  grasp.  We  could  see 
both, — one  towards  our  right,  and  the  other  a little  farther  away 
on  our  left,  with  a hollow  plateau  about  a third  of  a mile  across 
between  them.  We  reckoned  that  in  another  hour  we  could  get 
to  the  top  of  either  ; and,  not  knowing  which  of  the  two  was  the 
higher,  we  made  for  the  nearer.  But  at  this  point  the  condition 
of  affairs  completely  changed.  The  sky  became  overclouded,  the 
wind  rose,  and  we  entered  upon  a tract  of  exceedingly  soft  snow, 
which  could  not  be  traversed  in  the  ordinary  way.  The  leading 
man  went  in  up  to  his  neck,  almost  out  of  sight,  and  had  to  be 
hauled  out  bv  those  behind.  Imagining  that  we  had  got  into  a 
labyrinth  of  crevasses,  we  beat  about  right  and  left  to  try  to 
extricate  ourselves  ; and,  after  discovering  that  it  was  everywhere 
alike,  we  found  the  only  possible  way  of  proceeding  was  to  flog 
every  yard  of  it  down,  and  then  to  crawl  over  it  on  all  fours  ; and, 
even  then,  one  or  another  was  frequently  submerged,  and  almost 
disappeared.1 

Needless  to  sav,  time  flew  rapidly.  When  we  had  been  at  this 
sort  of  work  for  three  hours,  without  having  accomplished  half  the 
remaining  distance,  I halted  the  men,  pointed  out  the  gravity  of 
our  situation,  and  asked  them  which  they  preferred,  to  turn  or  to 
go  on.  They  talked  together  in  patois,  and  then  Jean -Antoine 

being  much  rounded  and  very  full  of  dull  glassy  enclosures ; there  is  a fair  amount 
of  augite,  but  no  well-characterised  hypersthene  ; so  that  the  rock  may  be  named 
an  augite-andesite.” — Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney,  Proc.  Royal  Soc.,  June  19,  1884. 

> Louis  Carrel  could  not  touch  bottom  with  a twelve-foot  pole  that  he  was 
carrying.  It  would  have  continued  to  descend  by  its  own  weight  if  he  had  left 
hold  of  it. 


WE  WERE  THEN  TWENTY  THOUSAND  FEET  HIGH. 


CHAP.  III. 


ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 


69 


said,  “ When  you  tell  ns  to  turn  we  will  go  back  ; until  then  we 
will  go  on/’  I said,  “ Go  on,”  although  by  no  means  feeling  sure 
it  would  not  be  best  to  say  “Go  back.”  In  another  hour  and  a 
half  we  got  to  the  foot  of  the  western  summit,  and,  as  the  slopes 
steepened,  the  snow  became  firmer  again.  We  arrived  on  the  top 
of  it  about  a quarter  to  four  in  the  afternoon,  and  then  had  the 
mortification  of  finding  that  it  was  the  lower  of  the  two.  There 
was  no  help  for  it ; we  had  to  descend  to  the  plateau,  to  resume 
the  flogging,  wading,  and  floundering,  and  to  make  for  the  highest 
point,  and  there  again,  when  we  got  on  to  the  dome,  the  snow  was 
reasonably  firm,  and  we  arrived  upon  the  summit  of  Chimborazo 
standing  upright  like  men,  instead  of  grovelling,  as  we  had  been 
doing  for  the  previous  five  hours,  like  beasts  of  the  field. 

The  wind  blew  hard  from  the  north-east,  and  drove  the 
light  snow  before  it  viciously.  We  were  hungry,  wet,  numbed, 
and  wretched,  laden  with  instruments  which  could  not  be  used. 
With  much  trouble  the  mercurial  barometer  was  set  up ; one 
man  grasped  the  tripod  to  keep  it  firm,  while  the  other  stood  to 
windward  holding  up  a poncho  to  give  a little  protection.  The 


“ LOWER  IT  WOULD  NOT  GO.' 


70 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iii. 


mercury  fell  to  14*100  inches,1  with  a temperature  of  21°  Faht., 
and  lower  it  would  not  go.  The  two  aneroids  (D  and  E)  read 
13 '050  and  12*900  inches  respectively.  By  the  time  the  barometer 
was  in  its  case  again,  it  was  twenty  minutes  past  five.  Planting 
our  pole  with  its  flag  of  serge  on  the  very  apex  of  the  dome,  we 
turned  to  depart,  enveloped  in  driving  clouds  which  entirely  con- 
cealed the  surrounding  country. 

Scarcely  an  hour  and  a quarter  of  daylight  remained,  and  we 
fled  across  the  plateau.  There  is  much  difference  between  ascend- 
ing and  descending  soft  snow,  and  in  the  trough  or  groove  which 
had  already  been  made  we  moved  down  with  comparative  facility. 
Still  it  took  nearly  an  hour  to  extricate  ourselves,  and  we  then 
ran, — ran  for  our  lives,  for  our  arrival  at  camp  that  night  de- 
pended upon  passing  “the  breach”  before  darkness  set  in.  We 
just  gained  it  as  daylight  was  vanishing,  and  night  fell  before  it 
was  left  behind  ; a night  so  dark  that  we  could  neither  see  our 
feet  nor  tell,  except  by  touch,  whether  we  were  on  rock  or  snow. 
Then  we  caught  sight  of  the  camp  fire,  twelve  hundred  feet  below, 
and  heard  the  shouts  of  the  disconsolate  Perring,  who  was  left 
behind  as  camp-keeper,  and  stumbled  blindly  down  the  ridge, 
getting  to  the  tent  soon  after  9 p.m.,  having  been  out  nearly 
sixteen  hours,  and  on  foot  the  whole  time. 

The  reduction  in  pressure  we  experienced  upon  Jan.  4 
amounted  to  nearly  two  inches  (10*000  to  14*100  inches), — a 
considerably  larger  diminution  than  had  occurred  while  mount- 
ing from  the  first  to  the  second  camp  on  Dec.  27  (17*900  to 
16*500  inches).  Yet  on  the  former  day  we  were  entirely  free 
from  the  afflictions  of  the  latter  one.  There  was  neither 
feverishness,  headache,  gasping,  nor  the  nausea,  vomitings,  and 
hemorrhages  of  which  others  have  spoken.  The  only  effect  of 
which  I was  conscious,  or  could  trace  in  my  companions,  was 
lassitude  or  want  of  vivacity.  Our  rate  on  this  day  was 

1 This  is  the  original  reading,  uncorreeted  for  temperature. 


CIIAP.  lit. 


THE  HEIGHT  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 


71 


deplorable.  Nearly  sixteen  hours  were  occupied  in  ascending 
and  descending  3200  feet.  There  was  a marked  diminution  in 
pace  the  higher  we  ascended,  and  although  this,  to  some  extent, 
was  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  snow  (the  softness  of  which 
according  to  the  Carrels  was  unprecedented  in  their  experience)  it 
seemed  probable  that  it  was  not  entirely  due  to  it  ; and  I proposed 
to  test  this  on  another  occasion  by  sweeping  round  and  avoiding 
the  hollow  part  of  the  plateau,  where  the  soft  snow  alone  occurred. 

The  eyes  of  my  mountaineers  were  inflamed.1  Louis  did  not 
shew  to  advantage  on  this  day,  and  I thought  it  noteworthy 
that  he,  the  youngest,  biggest,  and  not  the  least  powerful  of  the 
three,  manifested  more  signs  of  fatigue  than  men  who  were 
fourteen  and  twenty-six  years  older.  Whilst  descending,  he 
took  the  lead,  and  walked  irregularly  — sometimes  blundering 
or  staggering  forwards,  and  then  suddenly  checking  his  pace 
abruptly.  Jean- Antoine,  on  the  contrary,  walked  well,  and 
descended  with  a steady,  uniform  stride  (though  encumbered 
with  his  twelve-pound  baby),  in  admirable  style  for  a man  of 
fifty-two.  There  was  little  difference  in  our  condition  on  the 
morning  of  the  5th.  Louis  mentioned  that  his  toes  were  frost- 
bitten,2 and  so  were  the  tips  of  my  own  fingers,  through  turning 
the  milled  heads  of  the  cistern  and  vernier  screws  of  the 
barometer  with  ungloved  hands. 

The  reading  of  the  mercurial  barometer  upon  the  summit 
was  half  an  inch  higher  than  I expected  ; and,  from  the  rough 
computation  which  I made  on  the  spot,  upon  the  assumption 
that  the  simultaneous  height  of  the  barometer  at  Guayaquil  was 
a little  below  30  inches  and  that  the  temperature  of  the  air 
there  was  75°  Falit.,  the  height  of  Chimborazo  came  out  20,608 

1 On  the  4th  of  Jan.  1 used  a knitted  woollen  head-piece  (with  a linen  mask 
as  well  during  part  of  the  time),  and  wore  neutral-tint  spectacles  throughout 
the  day.  The  Carrels  incautiously  uncovered  their  eyes  occasionally,  and  suffered 
accordingly. 

2 He  was  indebted  to  this  through  going  without  gaiters.  The  snow  on  the 
summit  was  wet  as  well  as  soft,  and  he  got  his  feet  wet. 


72 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iii. 


feet,1 *  or  817  feet  lower  than  the  determination  of  Humboldt. 
Although  I had  uo  doubt  of  the  accuracy  of  my  readings,*  I 
thought  it  was  desirable  to  repeat  them,  if  possible  at  11  a.m., 
for  the  sake  of  combination  with  Mr.  Chambers’  observations  at 
that  hour. 

Two  aneroids  (D  and  E)  were  taken  to  the  summit,  and  when 
read  against  the  mercurial  they  shewed  a considerable  increase 
in  their  errors  upon  those  which  were  observed  at  the  third 
camp  — 

Error  of  D at  last  comparison  at  the  third  camp  was  — 0724  inch. 

Do.  E do.  do.  — 0.774  „ 

Do.  D upon  the  summit  of  Chimborazo  . . — l'OOO  ,, 

Do.  E do.  do  . . - 1-210  „ 

The  actual  readings  on  the  summit  of  these  two  aneroids  were 
(D)  13-050  inches,  and  (E)  12-900  inches.3  The  mean  of  the 
readings  (12-975  inches),  thus,  was  no  less  than  1-135  inches 
lower  than  the  reading  of  the  mercurial  barometer  (corrected 
for  temperature) ; and  if  the  altitude  of  Chimborazo  had  been 
deduced  from  this  mean,  in  combination  with  Mr.  Chambers’ 
observations  at  Guayaquil,  the  height  of  the  mountain  would 
have  come  out  more  than  a thousand  feet  greater  than  the 
determination  of  Humboldt ! 

I considered  that  it  was  desirable  to  ascend  Chimborazo 
again,  to  see  whether  we  could  improve  our  route,  to  learn 
whether  our  deplorable  rate  at  the  upper  part  was  due  to  the 
softness  of  the  snow  or  was  to  be  attributed  to  diminution  in 
atmospheric  pressure  ; and  to  remain  a longer  time  on  the  summit 
to  repeat  the  observations  of  the  barometer,  and  to  obtain  a 

1 Upon  being  re-computed  by  Mr.  Ellis  (after  the  Guayaquil  observations  were 
known),  this  was  reduced  to  20,545  feet. 

= The  mercurial  barometer  was  set  up  directly  we  reached  the  summit,  but  the 
reading  was  not  entered  until  it  was  found  that  the  mercury  of  the  instrument 
had  taken  up  the  temperature  of  the  air. 

3 These  aneroids  were  graduated  to  13  inches. 


CHAP.  III. 


THE  VOLCANO  SANGAI. 


73 


round  of  angles, — for  it  was  obvious  that  this  commanding  posi- 
tion covered  an  immense  range.  It  was  consequently  understood 
that  another  ascent  was  to  be  made,  as  soon  as  the  conditions 
became  favourable. 

The  weather  on  Jan.  5 was  cold  and  windy,  and  much  sleet 
fell.  The  arriero-courier  came  up  with  a sheep,1  and  went  down 
to  “ the  authorities  ” with  a cordial  invitation  to  pay  us  a visit, 
as  I wished  to  see  how  far  they  were  fitted  to  occupy  higher 
positions  than  their  comparatively  obscure  ones  at  Guaranda. 
Jean-Antoine  and  Perring  descended  to  the  second  camp  for 
firewood,  and  Louis  remained  nearly  all  day  in  the  tent,  engaged 
in  household  affairs. 

The  view  from  our  eyrie  was  more  extensive  towards  the 
east  and  south  than  that  seen  from  the  second  camp.  Over  the 
ridge  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Glacier  de  Debris  we  obtained 
an  occasional  glimpse  of  Sangai,  an  active  volcano  which  seems 
to  be  known  only  by  name.’  In  Ecuador  it  is  reputed  to  lie 
formidable,  and  when  we  were  established  at  Guaranda  we 
frequently  heard  noises  which  were  attributed  to  it  by  the 
natives.3  It  appeared  to  be  distant  from  ns  about  forty  miles, 
and  its  rather  symmetrical  cone  rose  well  above  the  intervening 
ranges.  There  were  large  snow-beds  near  its  summit,  but  the 
apex  of  the  cone  was  black,  and  was  doubtless  covered  with  fine 
volcanic  ash.  The  saying  is  current  that  eruptions  of  Sangai 
are  to  be  apprehended  when  Cotopaxi  becomes  tranquil,  and  the 

1 The  animal  was  driven  up  to  the  second  camp. 

2 I am  not  acquainted  with  any  information  about  it  in  print,  except  the  brief 
references  to  it  by  Mr.  Spruce  in  the  Journal  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  for 
1861,  nor  aware  that  the  base  of  its  cone  has  been  reached.  Messrs.  Reiss  and 
Stiibel  in  their  Alt  urns  give  17,464  feet  as  its  height. 

3 On  Dec.  20-21  the  noises  resembled  reports  of  volleys  of  musketry  at  the 
distance  of  half  a mile  or  so.  On  these  and  upon  other  days  the  sounds  were  heard 
only  between  7 and  9 a.m.  They  were  not  accompanied  by  any  vibration,  and  the 
natives  paid  no  regard  to  them.  The  name  of  this  mountain  has  not  been  intro- 
duced upon  the  large  map,  as  I was  unable  to  fix  its  position. 

L 


74 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  CHAP.  III. 


opinion  seemed  to  prevail  that  the  two  mountains  act  as  safety- 
valves  to  each  other. 

Upon  the  few  occasions  that  we  saw  it  (though  scarcely  any 
smoke  issued  from  the  crater),  there  were  outrushes  of  steam 
at  intervals  of  twenty  to  thirty  minutes 1 which  shot  up  with 


immense  rapidity  five  or  six  thousand  feet  above  the  top  of  the 
mountain.  They  then  spread  out  into  mushroom-like  clouds, 
which  were  drifted  by  the  wind  towards  the  south.  The  annexed 
diagram  shews  three  phases  (A,  B,  C)  of  these  erujotions.  In  A. 
the  nearly  invisible  jet  is  being  projected.  In  B,  the  eruption  has 

> Similar  ejections  of  steam,  on  a smaller  scale,  were  also  observed  upon  Cotopaxi. 
See  Chapter  VII. 


CHAP.  in. 


SANGAI  IN  ERUPTION. 


75 


ceased,  and  the  steam-cloud  lias  formed  ; and,  in  C,  this  cloud  is 
being  carried  to  leeward,  and  is  melting  away.  Sometimes  these 
clouds  drifted  ten  or  twelve  miles  before  they  were  dissipated, 
and  as  a rule  they  had  quite  disappeared  before  a fresh  outburst 
created  a new  one. 

Three  points  of  interest  in  connection  with  these  outbursts  of 
steam  may  be  mentioned.  1.  The  rapidity  of  the  ejection.  This 
can  be  estimated  with  some  probability,  as  our  position  was  nearly 
on  a level  with  the  summit  of  Sangai,  and  was  favourably  situated 
for  observation.  The  part  of  the  cone  within  sight  was  about 
4000  feet  high  ; the  jets  rose  to  about  once  and  a half  this  height, 
in  less  than  three  seconds,  and  they  were  consequently  projected  in 
the  air  at  the  rate  of  about  twenty-two  miles  per  mimcte.  2.  The 
cloud  formed  by  the  steam  took  the  shape  of  ordinary  cumulus, 
rudely  flat  below,  and  piled  up  above.  This  was  repeated  time 
after  time.  3.  The  drift  of  these  clouds  southwards  demonstrated 
the  existence  of  a current  of  air,  22-23,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
directed  from  north  to  south.  From  our  small  number  of  observa- 
tions, it  would  be  rash  to  conclude  that  this  current  is  a permanent 
one,  although  from  subsequent  experiences  it  would  appear  that 
it  exists  during  a considerable  portion  of  the  year. 

The  6th  of  January  commenced . with  fine  weather,  and  I 
went  again  with  the  Carrels  to  the  foot  of  the  Southern  Walls. 
This  time  we  ascended  the  1243  feet  in  88  minutes.  The  lower 
cliffs  (marked  D on  the  sketch  plan  of  Chimborazo)  are  not  so  lofty, 
or  as  perpendicular  as  the  upper  series,  and  (if  provided  with  ice- 
axes)  one  can  traverse  the  slopes  underneath  them  without  much 
trouble,  though  they  are  steep  and  have  many  streaks  or  sheets  of 
ice  caused  by  the  refreezing  of  the  water  which  trickles  off  the 
rocks.  There  is  evidence  that  a certain  amount  of  liquefaction 
goes  on  even  at  the  top  of  Chimborazo  (notwithstanding  the  low 
mean  temperature  that  prevails  there)  in  the  enormous  icicles 
which  depend  from  the  lower  surfaces  of  the  coronal  glacier. 
Some  were  fully  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long. 


76 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  crap.  hi. 


I found  at  this  place,  on  rocks  in  situ  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs, 
patches  of  the  lichen  Lecanora  subfuscn,  L.,  spread  over  a consider- 
able area.  This  was  the  highest  point  at  which  any  lichen  was 
obtained  upon  Chimborazo,  or  during  our  journey  amongst  the 
Great  Andes  of  the  Equator  ; and,  so  far  as  I can  learn,  it  (18,500 
feet)  is  the  greatest  elevation  at  which  anything  appertaining  to 
the  vegetable  kingdom  has  been  found  in  either  of  the  Americas.1 
Another  lichen  of  the  genus  Gyrophora  was  in  quantities  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  third  camp  (17,200-17,300  feet). 

Standing  at  the  foot  of  the  Southern  Walls,2  I was  more  puzzled 
than  before  to  understand  how  my  predecessors  could  have  at- 
tained the  elevations  of  19.28G  and  19,698  feet.  According  to  my 
rough  computation,  the  height  of  this  place  was  about  18,400  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.3  This,  it  seems  to  me,  was  the  spot  at 
which  Humboldt  and  Boussinganlt  stopped.  The  latter  traveller, 
in  the  account  reprinted  in  Appendix  H,  says  that  his  (second) 
attempt  was  made  by  way  of  the  Arenal.  This  limits  his  route  to 
the  three  rations  which  have  been  already  mentioned.  He  states 
that  he  got  his  mules  to  a height  of  4935  metres  (16,224  feet),  and 
this  indicates  that  he  followed  the  same  ration  as  ourselves,  for  he 
could  not  have  got  them  nearly  so  high  either  in  the  Vallon  de 
Debris  or  in  that  of  Tortorillas.  lie  then  speaks  of  following  an 
arete,  and  his  account  agrees  with  the  arete  of  the  south-west 
ridge  ; and  if  his  narrative  is  to  be  taken  in  a literal  sense  he  must 

1 There  are  in  the  Botanical  Department  of  the  British  Museum  some  specimens 
of  a moss  of  the  genus  Orthotrichum,  collected  by  the  Col.  Hall  who  accompanied 
Boussingault  upon  his  attempts  to  ascend  Chimborazo,  which  are  said  to  have  come 
from  a height  of  18,800  feet,  and  to  be  the  last  trace  of  vegetation.  I obtained 
species  of  this  genus  upon  the  summit  of  Corazon  (15,871),  but  did  not  meet  with  it 
upon  Chimborazo,  or  see  mosses  growing  anywhere  upon  that  mountain  higher  than 
16,700  feet. 

It  follows  from  what  is  said  about  the  elevation  attained  by  Col.  Hall  and 
Boussingault  that  I cannot  suppose  these  specimens  actually  came  from  so  great 
a height. 

2 A detailed  sketch  of  a portion  of  them  accompanies  Chapter  XIX. 

3 In  recomputation,  this  has  been  increased  to  18,528  feet. 


ICE-CLIFFS  UNDER  THE  SUMMITS  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 

PHOTOGRAPHED  AT  18.500  FEET. 


THIS.  IT  SEEMS  TO  ME.  WAS  THE  SPOT  AT  WHICH  HUMBOLDT  AND  BOUSSINGAULT  STOPPED/* 


CHAP.  III. 


PUZZLED. 


77 


have  stopped  at  the  foot  of  the  Southern  Walls,  at  or  about  the 
place  marked  F upon  the  illustration  in  Chapter  XIX.,  and  by 
a little  cross  on  the  plate  facing  p.  24,  for  his  description  agrees 
with  that  place  and  cannot  apply  to  any  other.1  I am  unable  to 
explain  how  he  found  that  this  place  was  elevated  19,698  feet 
above  the  sea ; still  less  do  I understand,  if  he  stood  at  this 
spot,  having  the  Glacier  de  Debris  on  his  right,  and  the  Glacier 
de  Thielmann  on  his  left,  and  magnificent  sections  of  glacier 
crowning  the  Upper  Walls,  immediately  above  him,  how  it  was 
he  declared  that  he  had  seen  no  glaciers  upon  Chimborazo  ! 

There  is  less  certainty  that  Humboldt  arrived  at  this  spot.  It 
is  impossible  to  determine  from  his  own  narrative  where  he  actu- 
ally went.  Boussingault  says  he  knew  that  Humboldt  made  his 
attempt  upon  the  side  of  the  Arenal  ; and,  inasmuch  as  the  route 
we  followed  is  the  only  way  by  which  the  elevation  of  18,500  feet 
can  be  reached  with  reasonable  facility  on  that  side,  it  seems  not 
impossible  that  he  also  got  as  far  as  the  foot  of  the  Southern 
Walls ; 2 and,  if  he  arrived  there,  this  also  would  be  the  place  at 
which  his  progress  would  be  arrested.  Go  farther  he  could  not,  for 
the  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet 3 of  broken  rock  and  intermingled  ice 
in  the  breach  form  an  insurmountable  barrier  to  the  uninitiated. 

The  view  from  this  position  is  one  of  the  most  striking  upon 
the  mountain.  It  commands  the  ridge  up  which  we  made  our 
way,  and  embraces  the  whole  length  of  the  Glacier  de  Debris,  the 

1 “ Nous  nous  trouvions  au  pied  d’un  prisme  de  trachyte  dont  la  base  suptirieure, 
recouverte  d’une  coupole  de  neige,  forme  le  sommet  du  Chimborazo.  . . . De  toutes 
parts  nous  etions  environnes  de  precipices.  ...  La  couleur  foncee  de  la  roche  con- 
trastait  de  la  maniere  la  plus  tranehee  avec  la  blancheur  6blouissante  de  la  neige. 
I)e  longues  stalagmites  de  glace  paraissaient  suspendues  sur  nos  tetes.” 

2 There  are,  however,  several  reasons  why  this  is  dubious.  In  Aspects  of' Nature, 
vol.  2,  p.  34,  he  states  that  his  highest  point  was  “ on  the  eastern  declivity  of  the 
Chimborazo.”  By  no  stretch  of  the  imagination  can  ‘-the  side  of  the  Arenal  ” be 
made  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountain.  In  Karl  Bruhns’  Life  it  is  said  that 
progress  was  stopped  by  “ a ravine,  some  400  feet  deep,  and  60  feet  wide,”  and  there 
is  no  such  ravine  or  cleft  upon  the  south-west  ridge. 

8 We  measured  the  breach  with  a line  on  Jan.  6. 


78 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  crap.  iii. 


vallon  below,  ami  in  the  far  distance  a little  peep  of  the  Arenal 
road,  where  by  the  aid  of  glasses  the  passing  mnle-trains  bound 
from  the  capital  to  the  coast  could  be  discerned,  and  condors 
sailing  to  and  fro  watching  unguarded  flocks  and  herds. 

The  inferior  portion  of  the  Glacier  de  Debris  lies  below  the 
line  of  perpetual  snow,  blackened  and  obscured  with  fragments  of 
lavas  of  every  hue  and  shape,  broken  from  places  inaccessible  to 
the  hammer  ; but  its  upper  half,  sprinkled  by  the  daily  falls,  grows 
purer  as  it  rises,  and  terminates  in  a steeply-sloping  basin,  closed 
by  the  cirque  of  cliffs  of  the  Southern  Walls,  crowned  by  a vertical 
section  of  ice  (E)  which  shews  the  thickness  of  the  glacier  at  the 
summit  of  Chimborazo. 

Whilst  waiting  at  the  point  marked  A on  the  Plan,  ready  to 
snatch  a view  of  the  opposite  walls  should  an  opening  occur  in 
the  mists,  a portion  of  the  projecting  ice-cliffs  near  the  summit 
broke  away,  and  some  thousands  of  tons  dropped  hundreds  of 
feet  without  touching  anything,  falling  into  the  amphitheatre 
with  a noise  which  fairly  made  us  quiver ; and  then,  shattered 
into  millions  of  fragments,  danced  down  the  converging  slopes 
to  the  upper  basin,  and  marched  onwards,  covering  the  entire 
glacier ; continuing  to  roll,  grind  against,  and  even  to  clamber 
over  each  other,  until  nearly  opposite  the  second  camp, — driving 
a cloud  of  icy  spray  nearly  a mile  farther.  In  this  way  the 
Glacier  de  Debris  is  fed  and  maintained. 

Shortly  afterwards,  following  its  usual  custom,  the  weather 
deteriorated.  High  wind  and  a severe  thunderstorm  made  us 
scamper  to  the  tent  for  shelter,  leaving  the  instruments,  as 
before,  stowed  away  in  fissures  in  the  cliffs.  Next  morning,  my 
Chief  of  the  Staff  enquired  what  we  were  going  to  do,  and 
whether  the  instruments  should  be  brought  down.  I said,  “ No, 
we  have  not  finished  our  work.”  He  then  attempted  to  dissuade 
me  from  another  ascent,  arguing  that  the  weather  was  bad,  and 
that  it  would  be  useless,  and  so  forth.  It  came  out  gradually 
that  he  himself  positively  refused  to  go  up  again,  or  even  to 


CHAP.  III. 


THE  RETREAT. 


79 


stop  where  we  were.  I reminded  him  of  the  labour  which  had 
been  incurred  in  establishing  our  camps,  and  pointed  out  the 
severe  loss  that  would  occur  if  they  were  broken  up.  He 
assented  to  all  that  I said,  and  simply  took  up  the  position 
that  he  would  not  ascend  Chimborazo  again.  Louis  did  not  join 
in  the  discussion, — the  older  man  spoke  for  both.  Upon  asking 
for  a reason,  he  said  that  he  considered  the  length  of  time  we 
were  at  so  great  a height  was  injurious  to  his  health  ; that  he 
had  pains  all  over  his  body,  and  was  afflicted  with  dysentery. 
After  spending  much  time  in  argument,  and  finding  that  he 
could  not  be  brought  into  a different  frame  of  mind,  I despatched 
Perring  to  Guaranda  to  bring  up  mules  for  the  retreat.1 

To  tell  the  truth,  I did  not  think  much  of  the  ailments  he 
mentioned,  for  he  appeared  to  be  in  very  good  preservation  ; 
and  I concluded  that  he  was  tired  of  the  monotony  of  his  life, 
and  unfavourably  contrasted  the  tameness  of  our  proceedings 
with  the  dashing  exploits  to  which  he  had  been  accustomed. 
From  this  point  of  view  a good  deal  might  have  been  said.  The 
cousins  had  been  employed  on  Chimborazo  more  as  beasts  of 
burden  than  as  mountaineers,  in  weather  which  for  continuous 
badness  was  the  worst  we  had  known,  in  occupations  that 
brought  them  no  compensation  for  the  hardships  they  endured  ; 
and  I did  not  feel  inclined  to  judge  them  too  harshly,  though 
intensely  chagrined  at  their  sudden  collapse,  and  at  being  com- 
pelled to  descend  when  our  work  was  not  half  finished. 

During  the  time  Mr.  Perring  was  absent,  all  the  baggage 
was  concentrated  below ; and  on  the  10th,  when  the  team 
arrived,  it  was  speedily  loaded,  and  despatched  to  the  tambo  of 
Chuquipoquio,  on  the  east  side  of  Chimborazo.  Perring  neces- 
sarily accompanied  the  caravan  as  interpreter,  and  I remained 
alone  at  the  second  camp  ; for  I refused  to  leave  until  some 
of  my  projects  were  accomplished,  amongst  these  the  most 

1 This  day  (Jan.  7)  we  went  up  to  recover  the  instruments,  and  got  to  the 
foot  of  the  Southern  Walls  in  eighty-five  minutes. 


80 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iii. 


important  being  the  observation  of  angles  for  the  construction  of 
a plan  of  our  surroundings.  Before  they  left,  a base  line,  GOO 

feet  long,  was  measured  from  near  the  second  camp  to  the 

position  marked  STATION  3 on  the  sketch  plan  of  part  of  the 
southern  side  of  Chimborazo,  and  poles  were  erected  as  signals 
on  the  centre  of  the  Glacier  de  Debris  and  at  other  places. 
But  the  mists  that  had  prevailed  prevented  angles  being  ob- 
served at  these  positions,  and  until  they  were  obtained  I 
proposed  to  stop.  Perring  was  directed  to  return  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  11  th  with  a sufficient  number  of  beasts  for  the 
transport  of  the  remaining  baggage,  and  then  the  little  proces- 
sion passed  out  of  sight,  with  Jean- Antoine  as  rear-guard, 
lingering  as  if  after  all  reluctant  to  go,  turning  to  wave  an 
adieu,  calling  out,  “Take  care  of  yourself.  Monsieur,  take  care  ! ” 
In  this  singular  jiosition  I remained  two  days  longer.  At 

4 p.m.  on  the  12th  I turned  my  back  on  the  second  camp, 

and.  going  gently  on  foot,  arrived  at  10.45  at  the  tambo  of 
Chuquipoquio.  The  great  gate  of  the  massive  portal  was  opened 
somewhat  tardily,  for  all  were  asleep  and  the  place  was  in  dark- 
ness, and  I went  to  bed  about  1 a.m.,  not  in  the  least  knowing 
what  the  next  move  would  be. 


THE  HEAD  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


FROM  CHUQUIPOQUIO  TO  AMBATO,  LATACUNGA  AND  MACHACHI. 

Early  on  tlie  next  morning,  the  mystery  was  solved.  Louis 
was  found  to  be  a cripple,  quite  unable  to  walk,  through  his 
feet  having  been  severely  frost-bitten.  They  were  frightfully 
swollen,  blistered  and  discoloured.  Jean- Antoine,  however,  was 

restored  ; his  dysentery  having  yielded  to  frequent  internal  appli- 
cations of  hot  wine  and  cognac. 

It  appeared  that  they  were  somewhat  shamefaced  about  these 
frost-bitten  feet,  and  when  they  found  that  serious  mischief  had 
been  done  they  were  half  afraid  to  confess  it,  expecting  that  a 
storm  would  be  raised  by  this  result  of  their  negligence.1  It 

1 Louis  Carrel  did  not  wear  gaiters  on  Jan.  4,  and  as  his  shoes  were  of  the 
ill-fitting  kind  usually  worn  by  Alpine  peasants,  snow  worked  down  into  them, 
and  his  feet  got  wet.  Both  men  were  in  fault.  It  was  a part  of  their  contract 
that  they  were  to  bring  gaiters,  and  it  was  the  business  of  Jean-Antoine  to  see 
that  everything  requisite  was  provided. 


M 


82 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iv. 


was  not  a time  for  scolding.  I saw  now  why  Louis  had  blundered 
and  floundered  about  during  the  descent.  The  poor  man  was  in 
a very  bad  way,  and  the  first  thing  was  to  find  some  one  who 
understood  the  proper  treatment  for  him,  as  his  case  was  beyond 
our  abilities. 

It  so  happened  that  shortly  after  my  arrival  the  proprietor 
of  Chuquipoquio  came  up  from  Riobamba,  and  from  him  we 
learned  that  there  was  at  the  town  of  Ambato,  about  twenty- 
two  miles  away,  a medical  man  who  had  a good  reputation ; 
and  on  the  14th  Perring  was  despatched  to  that  place  to  pro- 
cure lodgings  and  to  bring  back  the  means  of  transporting  the 
cripples  — for  there  were  two  of  us.  I was  also  in  need  of  a 
doctor  through  having  acquired  in  Ecuador  a complaint  which 
rendered  riding  impossible,  and  obliged  me  to  walk  with  cir- 
cumspection. 

Sefior  Chiriboga,  the  proprietor  of  the  tambo,  was  the  son  of 
a gentleman  of  Riobamba,  who  was  said  to  be  the  representative 
of  one  of  the  oldest  families  in  Ecuador,  and  would  have  been, 
if  titles  had  not  been  abolished.  Marquis  de  Chimborazo.  The 
possible  Marquis  was  a man  of  middle  age.  with  an  intelligent 
head,  and  he  came  up  “ to  do  us  honour,  to  supply  our  needs,  to 
watch  over  and  care  for  us” — so  he  said.  lie  fell  on  my  neck 
and  kissed  me,  and  begged  that  I would  write  an  account  of 
our  ascent,  to  enrich  the  Archives  of  Riobamba.”  I took  this 
request  seriously,  but  he  became  invisible  until  just  before  we 
left  his  house,  and  I forgot  his  existence  except  when  my  eye 
lighted  upon  the  neglected  document,  which  was  to  have  enriched 
the  archives  of  his  native  town. 

Chuquipoquio  is  situated  towards  the  eastern  end  of  Chim- 
borazo. There  is  no  village.  The  establishment  is  partly  tambo 
and  partly  farm,  and  like  most  of  the  Haciendas  in  the  interior 
of  Ecuador  is  surrounded  by  high  walls,  and  has  a half-fortified 
appearance.  The  courtyard  in  front  was  entered  through  a massive 
portal,  with  strong  gates,  which  were  generally  kept  locked  and 


CHAP.  IV. 


SHORT  COMMONS. 


S3 

bolted,  and  the  buildings  on  the  opposite  side  were  of  one  story, 
in  the  hut  style  of  architecture.  Two  or  three  ragamuffins  were 
attached  to  the  place,  which  was  managed  by  a very  dirty  Indian, 
styled  the  major-domo,  -who  was  assisted  by  an  equally  dirty  wife. 

This  was  the  only  house  of  entertainment  between  Ambato 
and  Gluaranda  (for  the  miserable  tambos  at  Tortorillas  and  Mocha 
count  for  nothing),  and  it  had  things  all  its  own  way.  A bottle 
of  Bass  cost  four  shillings,  and  other  articles  were  in  proportion. 
But  our  greatest  grievance  was  that  we  could  scarcely  get  any- 
thing at  any  price.  Though  there  were  cows,  milk  was  doled  out 
by  spoonfuls  ; there  were  fowls  that  “ belonged  to  some  one  else  ” 
and  never  laid  eggs  ; there  was  famine  as  regards  bread,  and 
meat  was  not  to  be  thought  of.  So  we  had  to  fall  back  upon 
our  reserved  stock  to  save  ourselves  from  starvation. 

Examination  of  the  stock  shewed  that  we  had  eaten  less 
than  usual  while  upon  Chimborazo  ; though,  owing  to  the  com- 
plications introduced  by  the  putrid  ox-cheek,  one  could  not  tell 
to  what  extent.  Upon  speaking  of  this  as  an  unexpected  cir- 
cumstance to  Jean-Antoine,  he  surprised  me  by  saying  that 
they  (that  is  to  say,  Alpine  peasants  generally)  noticed  the  same 
thing  when  they  were  upon  mountain  expeditions  in  the  Alps. 
I should  have  thought  the  reverse  was  the  case,  and  that  the 
appetites  of  guides  left  nothing  to  be  desired,  except  a wish  that 
they  might  be  diminished.1 

In  the  mornings,  when  every  one  cleared  out  of  the  tambo, 
some  going  north  and  others  south,  the  courtyard  which  had 
resounded  with  the  pawing  of  restless  beasts  became  as  still  as 
death,  and  I turned  to  my  journals.  I found  that  my  residence 
upon  Chimborazo  had  extended  over  seventeen  days.  One  night 
was  passed  at  14,375  feet,  ten  more  at  16,664  feet,  and  six  others 
at  17,285  feet  above  the  sea,  and  this  is  perhaps  the  greatest 
length  of  time  that  any  one  has  remained  continuously  at  such 

1 It  should,  however,  be  noted  that  we  do  not  know  how  much  the  Alpine 
peasant  consumes  when  he  is  at  home. 


84 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  iv. 


elevations.1 2  In  these  days,  besides  ascending  to  the  summit,  I 
went  three  times  as  high  as  18,528  feet.  Or,  the  case  may  be 
stated  in  the  following  way.  In  the  period  intervening  between 
4.45  p.m.  on  Dec.  27  and  4 p.m.  on  Jan.  12  I did  not  ex- 

perience  a higher  pressure  than  16  •500  inches,  except  during 

the  few  hours  on  Jan.  1 when  I descended  to  inspect  the  depot. 
For  six  consecutive  days,  namely,  from  4 p.m.  on  Jan.  2 to  the 
same  hour  on  Jan.  8,  pressure  was  never  higher  than  sixteen 

inches ; and  in  these  six  days,  on  three  occasions,  the  barometer 
was  observed  to  be  standing  below  15 '300  inches,  and  on  one 
other  day  to  be  as  low  as  14 ’100  inches.* 

In  these  seventeen  days  we  had  experienced  the  reality  of 

mountain-sickness,  and  found  that  we  were  not  exempt  from  it 
at  a pressure  of  sixteen  and  a half  inches ; that  in  course  of  time 
the  more  acute  symptoms  disappeared,  as  we  became  habituated 
to  that  pressure,  and  that  we  were  able  to  sustain  a slight  further 
diminution  without  their  recurrence.  There  was  no  certainty 

1 The  nearest  parallel  of  which  I am  aware  is  to  be  found  in  the  experiences 
of  some  of  the  officers  of  Sir  Douglas  Forsyth’s  Mission  to  Yarkund.  See  the 
Geographical  Report  of  Capt,  (now  Col.)  H.  Trotter,  R.E.,  in  Report  of  a Mission 
to  Yarkund  in  1873 , under  command  of  Sir  T.  I).  Forsyth,  K.C.S.I.,  C.B. ; 4to. 
Calcutta,  1875. 

2 During  the  whole  of  this  time,  there  was  not  one  really  fine  day.  As  a 
rule,  the  weather  at  daybreak  on  Chimborazo  was  reasonably  good  at  our  level, 
and  the  two  summits  were  cloudless,  or  nearly  so.  Clouds  at  that  time,  however, 
always  existed  beneath  us,  commencing  at  about  13-14,000  feet,  and  extending 
how  low  I cannot  say.  Hill-tops  of  greater  elevation  than  this  were  commouly 
clear.  Byr  8 a.m.,  or  thereabouts,  clouds  commenced  to  form  over  the  eastern  side 
of  the  mountain  ; and,  gradually  extending  upwards,  generally  shut  out  the  sum- 
mits by  10  a.m.  There  were  thunderstorms  on  the  south  side  of  Chimborazo  on 
every  day  from  Dec.  28  to  Jan.  12  inclusive,  and  some  were  extremely  violent. 
These  seldom  occurred  before  mid-day.  Snow  fell  around  us  every  day,  on  an 
average,  to  the  extent  perhaps  of  three  inches  per  day.  The  snow  was  commonly 
wet.  and  in  small  flakes.  Dry,  powdery  snow  did  not  occur.  Hail  fell,  but  not  in 
great  quantities  or  in  pellets  of  large  size.  The  extreme  temperatures  noted  at 
the  camps  were  72°'5  Faht.  at  11  a.m.,  in  the  tent  at  t*ie  second  camp  on  Jan.  9, 
and  17°  Faht.,  the  minimum  of  the  night  of  Jan.  5,  at  the  third  camp. 


cfiap.  iv. 


TEE  TAJSIBO  OF  CEUQUIPOQUIO. 


85 


that  they  would  not  reappear  if  we  remained  continuously  at 
yet  lower  pressures,  and  I had  proposed  to  test  this  by  stopping 
on  the  summit  for  some  length  of  time.  The  unfortunate 
denouement  which  had  just  occurred  necessitated  an  entire  re- 
casting of  my  plans,  and  whilst  groaning  inwardly  under  their 
enforced  abandonment  a scheme  came  into  my  head  from  the 
execution  of  which  it  seemed  possible  to  derive  some  consolation. 


BACK  OF  THE  TAMBO  OF  CHUQUIPOQUIO. 


This  idea  it  was  discreet  to  keep  secret  until  the  right  time 
arrived  for  divulging  it,  and  I proposed  to  exercise  the  same 
reticence  now. 

The  tambo  of  Chuquipoquio  is  built  upon  the  lower,  eastern 
slopes  of  Chimborazo,  which  extend  almost  uninterruptedly  down 
to  Riobamba.  This  town  is  on  flat  ground,  at  the  bottom  of 
a huge  basin.  Carihuairazo,  Chimborazo  and  its  continuations 
bound  it  upon  the  west ; and  on  the  south  it  is  enclosed  by  a 
transverse  range  (upon  which  the  village  of  Nanti  is  situated), 
that  stretches  across,  aud  in  a manner  may  be  said  to  connect 
the  Range  of  Chimborazo  with  that  which  culminates  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  basin  in  the  mountain  Altar.  The  drainage  of 
this  basin,  which  from  crest  to  crest  is  about  thirty  miles  across, 
is  collected  into  one  stream  of  insignificant  dimensions — the  River 
Chambo — near  the  Bridge  of  Penipe,  and,  after  sweeping  round 
the  base  of  Tungmragna,  falls  into  the  River  Pastassa. 


86 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iv. 


Ecuador  in  this  latitude,  commencing  from  the  west,  has 
first  lowlands  extending  from  the  coast  as  far  inland  as  the 
villages  of  Catarama  and  Yentanas ; then  comes  the  Pacific 
Range,  rising  14,000  feet  and  upwards  in  elevation;1  next  the 
basin  occupied  by  numerous  small  valleys  that  converge  towards 
the  head  of  the  River  Chimbo  (9-10,000),  succeeded  by  the 
Range  of  Chimborazo ; and  this  is  followed  by  the  basin  of 
Riobamba,  bounded  on  its  opposite  side  by  the  Range  of  Altar, 
which  sends  out  spurs  many  miles  yet  farther  towards  the  east.2 

The  Range  of  Chimborazo  includes  Chimborazo  itself,  Cari- 
huairazo  on  its  north-east  (extending  almost  as  far  as  the 
town  of  Ambato),  and  a great  block  of  mountains  on  its  south3 
which  nearly  fills  the  blank  space  on  the  Route  Map  that  is 
embraced  between  the  River  Chimbo  and  my  track  from  Rio- 
bamba past  Guamote  to  Chimbo.  The  mountain  proper,  even 
without  these  continuations,  covers  an  amount  of  ground  equal 
to  or  greater  than  some  of  the  principal  ranges  of  the  Alps. 
From  the  pass  of  Abraspungo  to  the  Great  Arenal  it  measures 
nearly  ten  miles,  all  the  intervening  space  being  higher  than 
14,000  feet  above  the  sea;  while  from  south-east  to  north-west, 
reckoning  only  the  part  which  is  above  9000  feet,  it  is  nearly 
thirty  miles  across. 

Chimborazo  as  seen  from  Chuquipoquio  has  no  resemblance 
to  a cone.  Its  summit  appears  to  be  formed  of  a ridge,4  the 
upper  part  of  which  is  everywhere  buried  beneath  snow-covered 
glacier.  Below  this,  along  a large  part  of  its  southern  side,  there 

1 From  the  second  camp  on  Chimborazo  ( 16,664  feet)  the  highest  visible  point 
of  the  Pacific  Range  was  depressed  only  2°  20'. 

2 Part  of  this  information  was  obtained  on  a later  visit  to  this  district. 

3 The  highest  of  these  mountains  closely  approach  but  do  not  enter  the  line 
of  perpetual  snow. 

* This  deceptive  appearance  is  the  result  of  foreshortening.  Chuquipoquio  is 
too  close  to  the  summit  to  let  its  proportions  be  seen  properly.  The  mountain  is 
viewed  to  much  greater  advantage  from  Riobamba.  The  second  (i.e.  the  western) 
summit  of  Chimborazo  cannot  be  seen  from  Chuquipoquio,  and  the  highest  point 
is  concealed  at  Tortorillas. 


CHAP.  IV. 


THE  LITTER. 


87 


are  many  precipitous  cliffs,  that  sometimes  completely  sever  the 
glaciers  on  the  apparent  summit  ridge  from  the  secondary  ones 
below.  The  glacier  J of  my  map  (Glacier  de  Chuquipoquio)  is 
an  example.  This  and  the  Glacier  de  Moreno  are  conspicuous 
at  the  tambo,  and  several  others  which  are  laid  down  upon  the 
map  are  also  more  or  less  seen  from  it.  Between  their  inferior 
extremities  and  Chuquipoquio  there  are  several  transverse  ridges, 
which  are  hilly  rather  than  mountainous  in  character  ; 1 and  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  tambo  the  slopes  become  still  more 
gentle,  and  finally  die  out  a little  distance  short  of  Iliobamba. 

Perring  returned  on  the  evening  of  the  16th,  bringing 
thirteen  mules,  eight  wild-looking  Indians,  and  two  persons  in 
uniform  who  had  been  sent  by  the  Governor  of  Ambato  as  a 
‘ guard  of  honour.’  He  said  that  no  vehicle  of  any  kind  could 
be  procured,  and  that  the  Indians  had  come  to  carry  me  upon 
a litter.  In  the  early  morning  they  began  to  construct  it,  first 
of  all  having  to  make  ropes  to  bind  it  together ; and  they 

1 On  Jan.  15,  Jean-Antoine  and  I walked  across  the  eastern  end  of  Chim- 
borazo, and  turned  the  corner  about  a mile  from  the  base  of  the  Glacier  de 
Moreno.  We  continued  round  the  northern  side  at  a level  of  about  14,000  feet 
until  we  were  due  south  of  the  summits  of  Carihuairazo,  then  dropped  down  into 
the  valley  which  occupies  the  depression  between  the  two  mountains,  and 
descended  it  as  far  as  the  high  road,  and  so  came  back  to  our  starting-point. 
Our  track  is  not  given  upon  the  map. 

In  the  course  of  this  walk,  we  found  a Calceolaria  ( C.  rosmarinifolia,  Lam.) 
in  abundance  near  Chuquipoquio  ; and  several  species  of  Gentiana,  of  Lupinus 
and  Ceraslium,  a Valeriana , a Vaccinium  and  a Ranunculus  (R.  Peruvianus, 
Pers. ) growing  between  12,000  and  14,000  feet.  The  grasses  upon  the  slopes 
were  principally  Poas,  Fescues,  and  Deyeuxias.  When  about  13,800  feet  high  we 
caught  sight  of  a large  white  spot  about  a mile  off,  and  found  it  was  an  isolated 
patch  of  a splendid  grass  ( Gynerium  argenteum , Xees)  growing  eight  to  nine 
feet  high,  by  the  side  of  a little  stream.  A few  days  later  we  discovered  the 
same  species  two  thousand  feet  lower,  near  Mocha,  but  these  were  the  only 
localities  where  it  was  noticed.  A little  below  14,000  feet,  on  the  north-east 
side  of  the  mountain,  at  the  foot  of  some  cliffs,  facing  the  north,  I was  attracted 
from  a long  distance  by  the  flowers  of  some  Currant  bushes  (Ribes  glandulomm, 
R.  & P.).  This  is  the  greatest  elevation  at  which  an  example  of  that  Order 
was  obtained  in  Ecuador. 


88 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES. 


CHAP.  IV. 


THE  ENTRANCE  TO  THE  TAMBO. 


accomplished  the  job  in  their  own  fashion  pretty  quickly, 
covering  the  framework  of  poles  with  a superstructure  of  pon- 
chos. Louis  was  hoisted  into  the  saddle  with  his  feet  well 
bandaged  in  lint  and  made  up  into  bundles,  and  by  nine  o’clock 
we  were  ready  to  leave. 

But  it  was  easier  to  get  into  the  Tambo  of  Chuquipoquio 
than  out  of  it.  The  bill  had  to  be  settled,  and  it  could  not 
be  obtained,  and  in  the  meantime  the  caravan  was  kept  locked 
up  in  the  courtyard.  When  the  bill  came,  its  portentous  total 
made  me  examine  the  items.  It  commenced  by  charging  for 
each  individual  thing  supplied  at  a meal.  Bread  was  put  down 
at  two  shillings  for  a few  slices ; half  a pint  of  milk  was 
entered  at  half-a-crown,  and  coffee  at  three  shillings  and  two- 
pence ; and  after  this  “ the  meal  ” was  charged  for  over  again, 
at  a price  which  was  quite  adequate  irrespective  of  the  previous 


CHAP.  IV. 


THE  ROBBER  OF  CHUQUIPOQUIO. 


89 


entries.  A number  of  things  were  put  down  that  had  not  been 
supplied,  and  the  total  was  made  to  amount  to  considerably 
more  than  the  proper  addition  of  the  items.  These  matters  were 
explained  through  Perring  to  the  major-domo,  who  took  the 
account  away,  and  kept  us  locked  up. 

After  waiting  more  than  an  hour  it  came  out  that  Senor 
Chiriboga,  our  worthy  host  (who  had  travelled  all  the  way 
from  Riobamba  “to  supply  our  needs,  to  watch  over  and  care 
for  us  ”),  was  stowed  away  in  a remote  corner  of  the  establish- 
ment, and  had  been  there  during  the  whole  of  our  stay  — in 
bed.  I found  the  possible  Marquis  stretched  out  in  a miserable 
den,  in  an  advanced  state  of  intoxication,  with  a bottle  of  spirits 
and  a wine-glass  on  a chair  by  his  side.  lie  was  made  to 
understand  that  there  might  be  trouble  if  he  continued  to 
detain  my  people,  and  after  some  parleying  they  were  set  free. 
I then  wasted  a half-hour  in  discussion  with  the  drunken  man, 
who  evaded  answers,  and,  sometimes  addressing  me  as  ‘ Your 
Excellency’  and  sometimes  as  ‘Doctor,’  kept  on  saying  it  was 
‘ all  right,’  and  that  his  servant  would  see  to  it ; while  the 
wretched  slave  (who  had  no  doubt  acted  under  orders)  declared 
that  he  had  followed  instructions.  “ Right,  your  Excellency,” 
said  the  landlord,  “quite  right,  my  servant  will  see  to  it.” 
“ You  hear  what  your  master  says, — you  are  to  do  what  is 
right.”  “My  master  told  me  to  make  out  the  bill  in  that 
way,”  replied  the  major-domo.  “ You  hear  what  your  servant 
says,  Senor  Chiriboga.”  “Quite  right,  Doctor  — take  a drink; 
yes,  it  is  all  right,  my  servant  will  do  what  is  right.”  The 
keys  might  have  been  obtained  by  force,  but  such  a procedure 
would  most  likely  have  given  rise  to  prejudicial  rumours.  Of 
the  two  evils  I thought  it  was  best  to  be  swindled.  I paid  the 
entire  amount,  under  protest,  and  was  then  unlocked  and  joined 
my  people,  who  had  halted  about  a mile  away,  wondering  at 
our  non-appearance. 

The  road  that  we  took  to  Ambato  is  almost  the  only  one 

N 


90 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iv. 


in  tlie  interior  of  Ecuador.  It  was  constructed  by  order  of 
Garcia  Morena,  a former  President  of  the  Republic,  and  it  is  in 
more  senses  than  one  the  highway  to  Quito.  It  commences  at 
Chuquipoquio,  where  the  traveller  to  his  surprise  suddenly  drops 
from  a trail  or  mule-path  on  to  a road  broad  enough  for  four 
or  live  vehicles  to  be  driven  abreast.  It  has  slightly  falling 
gradients  on  leaving  the  tambo,  and  it  then  rises  as  it  passes 
over  the  Paramo  of  Sanancajas  — a stretch  of  bleak  moorland 
forming  part  of  the  lower  eastern  slopes  of  Carihuairazo.  It 
then  descends  almost  continuously  to  Ambato,  bending  round 
and  avoiding  the  village  of  Mocha,  through  which  the  old  track 
to  Quito  passes. 

In  the  following  June-July  I measured  by  direct  measure- 
ment the  distance  by  the  road  between  Chuquipoquio  and  the 
place  marked  by  an  asterisk  on  the  Map  of  Chimborazo,  and 
found  it  was  35,670  feet.  When  crossing  the  paramo  it  is 
perfectly  straight  for  two  and  a half  miles,  and  this  part  and 
many  other  sections  of  it  are  paved  with  round,  knobbly  stones 
which  are  distressing  alike  to  man  and  beast.  They  are  found 
so  painful  to  traverse,  that  horsemen,  baggage-animals,  and 
pedestrians  decline  to  use  the  road  when  it  is  paved  in  this 
manner,  and  go  by  preference  into  the  little  ditches  on  each 
side,  or  even  take  to  the  wild  moorland,  where  there  is  much 
less  risk  of  dislocating  the  ankles.  The  paved  parts  of  the  road 
are  rapidly  becoming  covered  with  grass.1 

After  crossing  the  Paramo  of  Sanancajas  we  descended  into 
the  basin  of  Ambato.  The  litter,  carried  at  the  head  of  the 

i I concur  in  the  following  remarks  by  Mr.  Church.  “Its  great  width  appears 
to  me  to  be  an  error.  I doubt  if  any  part  of  it  is  used  by  live  carts  or  carriages 
per  day.  It  is  almost  entirely  used  as  a mule-track,  for  which  it  serves  abundantly 
well;  but  the  neglect  of  the  Government  to  keep  this  excellent  road  in  repair  is 
fast  turning  it  into  nothing  but  a mule-track.  A year  or  two  more,  under  its  present 
neglect,  will  make  it  impassable  for  carriages.  . . . There  are  no  plans  in  the  Govern- 
ment Offices  of  the  cart-road,  and  the  Government  tells  me  that  none  exist.” — Page  49 
of  a Report  by  Mr.  George  Earl  Church  to  Mr.  Blaine.  Washington,  Feb.  15,  1883. 


CHAP.  IV. 


THE  GOVERNOR  OF  AMBATO. 


91 


caravan,  escorted  by  the  guards,  seemed  to  be  conveying  some 
malefactor  to  prison  ; but  the  oddity  of  the  sight  excited  no 
attention,  and  the  natives  passed  by  stolid,  or  apathetic,  as  usual. 
On  arrival  at  the  town,1  we  went  straight  to  the  house  of  II is 
Excellency  Seflor  Juan  Guerrero  Duprat,  Minister  for  Foreign 
Affairs,  who  had  agreed  to  let  a suite  of  his  principal  apart- 
ments for  four  shillings  a day  ! and  on  the  morrow  sent  for  the 
doctor  who  had  been  recommended,  Dr.  Abel  Barona,  a gentle- 
man who  left  a pleasant  recollection  through  skilful  attention 
combined  with  moderation  in  charges.2  In  a few  days  he  set 
me  up  ; and  promised  Louis  that  in  a week  he  would  be  able 
to  get  about, — a good-natured  fiction  that  did  not  deceive  any 
of  us.  Though  the  swelling  was  soon  reduced,  the  flesh  parted 
in  large  gashes,  and  until  these  were  healed  he  could  not  make 
serious  attempts  at  walking. 

At  the  earliest  opportunity,  I paid  a visit  to  the  Governor. 
The  poor  man  was  afflicted  with  the  mumps,  or  some  kindred 
complaint,  and  had  his  jaws  tied  up  with  a coloured  handker- 
chief ; and,  as  he  also  wore  a floral  dressing-gown,  his  appear- 
ance was  rather  decorative.  He  rose  from  a sort  of  divan,  and 
bowed  very  slowly  and  profoundly,  with  an  obvious  eye  to  effect. 
But  he  was  very  courteous,  and  we  soon  got  talking  about  the 
possible  Marquis.  The  Governor  said  that  every  one  was  robbed 
at  Chuquipoquio,  and  that  a week  seldom  passed  without  com- 
plaints coming  to  his  ears.  lie  suggested  bringing  an  action 
against  Sefior  Chiriboga  at  Riobamba,  and  when  I enquired 
whether  it  was  not  the  fact  that  he  was  very  well  connected, 
and  that  it  was  possible  the  result  might  be  unfortunate,  he 

1 Left  Chuquipoquio  at  11.15  a.m.,  and  arrived  at  Mocha  at  2.45  p.m.  Halted 
until  4,  and  arrived  at  Ambato  at  9 p.m.  From  the  reasons  mentioned  in  the 
text,  we  travelled  slowly.  I found  the  litter  a very  suitable  and  pleasant  method 
of  conveyance.  The  Indians  shambled  or  jog-trotted  almost  the  entire  distance, 
without  shewing  signs  of  fatigue. 

3 These  details  are  given  as  a set-off  to  our  experiences  at  Chuquipoquio.  The 
treatment  at  that  place  was  quite  exceptional. 


92 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  it. 


replied  it  is  possible,-  it  is  possible  ” with  an  emphasis  and  look 
that  shewed  we  understood  each  other. 

A number  of  persons  hon- 
oured us  with  visits  whilst  we 
were  at  Ambato,  for  it  soon 
got  noised  abroad  that  the 
gringos  ” had  arrived.  Besides 
the  usual  individuals  with 
visions  of  gold  mines  and 
dreams  of  buried  treasure, 
there  was  a General  whose 
sole  impediment  to  opening 
up  a new  route  to  the  Ama- 
zons was  the  immediate  want 
of  fifty  pounds.  As  this  hap- 
pened to  be  the  exact  sum  for 
which  I felt  a pressing  need, 
we  did  not  do  much  business 
together.  Following  him  came 
a gentleman  who  seemed  to 
think  that  we  lacked  occupa- 
tion. Although  he  spoke  Eng- 
lish fluently,  there  was  a certain 
want  of  sequence  in  his  re- 
marks which  made  me  fancy 

SLNOR  JUAN  GUERRERO  DUPRAT.  that  he  was  an  escaped  lunatic. 

lie  kindly  put  his  observations 
into  writing  in  order  that  they  might  be  studied  at  leisure,  and 
I am  thus  enabled  to  present  some  of  his  suggestions  in  his 
own  words.1 

In  the  course  of  his  explorations,  my  Chief  of  the  Staff 
discovered  a compatriot,  who  was  engaged  in  the  manufacture 


1 The  following  is  the  opening  paragraph  of  the  document  lie  sent  me.  “ The 
Government  of  the  Equator  have  the  desire  to  erect  a piramid  in  the  point  of 


chap.  iv.  ENGLISH  AS  SHE  IS  WRITTEN  AT  AMBATO.  93 


of  Dry  Sherry.  Jean  - Antoine’s  account  of  the  process  was  a 
little  deficient  in  lucidity,  but  as  he  made  it  quite  clear  that 
Plaster  of  Paris  largely  entered  into  it,  and  that  the  juice  of 
the  grape  did  not  come  in  at  all,  I took  good  care  to  avoid  the 
Dry  Sherry  of  Ambato.  Paolo  Oberti,  the  ingenious  manufac- 
turer of  this  beverage,  had  accompanied  Dr.  Wagner  upon  his 
“ ascent  ” of  Chimborazo,  and  voluntarily  made  the  declaration 
which  is  given  below.1 

Ambato  contains,  I imagine,  about  5000  inhabitants,  yet  for 
six  days  in  the  week  it  wears  the  lifeless  aspect  common  to  all 
the  towns  of  the  interior.  On  Mondays  troops  of  people  pour 
in  from  the  surrounding  villages,  for  the  most  part  mounted 
(as  no  person  who  has  the  least  respect  for  himself  goes  on 
foot),  the  cavaliers  accompanied  by  their  dames,  riding  the  same 
beast,  astride, — perched  in  front  of  their  lords,  or  else  behind, 
holding  on  to  their  waists ; while  the  despised  peons  trudge 
barefooted  through  the  dust,  driving  mules  or  asses  bringing 
rolls  of  matting,  baskets  of  cackling  fowls,  or  sacks  of  maize, 
potatoes  and  other  farm-produce,  for  sale  at  the  market  in  the 
great  Plaza. 

intercession  of  the  Equator  with  the  Meridian,  and  you  may  aid  to  lix  it.  With 
this  purpose  it  would  be  well  to  profit  of  the  works  of  Bouguer  and  Lacondamine, 
and  in  order  that  I may  be  well  understood  will  put  in  Spanish  language,  that 
you  may  do  a good  translation  into  the  english,  speaking  in  Quito  with  the  sage 
Dr.  Menthem  (a  german)  the  director  of  astronomical  observatory,  besides  the 
inscriptions  will  put  in  latin  language,  because  theirs  authors  themselves  have 
put  in  that  tongue.” 

1 [Translation.]  “On  the  occasion  that  Paul  Oberti  accompanied  Dr.  Maurice 
Wagner  to  make  an  ascent  of  Chimborazo,  on  the  occidental  side,  about  the  end 
of  1858  or  the  beginning  of  1859,  the  Doctor  was  attacked  with  intermittent  fever, 
and  he  likewise  met  with  insurmountable  difficulties  which  prevented  him  from 
reaching  the  top  of  Chimborazo.  He  was  only  able  to  reach  the  line  of  perpetual 
snow. 

“ It  is  to  be  understood  that  the  said  ascent  was  made  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Arenal.  They  slept  in  the  sheep-pen  nearest  to  the  mountain  of  Chimborazo, 
belonging  to  the  farm  of  Santa  Rosa. 

“Ambato,  Jan.  21,  1880.” 


Pablo  Oberti. 


94 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iv. 


Some  previous  writer  has  justly  said  that  this  place  seems 
like  an  oasis  in  a desert.  The  hills  in  its  immediate  vicinity 
are  mostly  bare,  monotonous  ridges  covered  with  volcanic  dust, 
which  is  set  in  movement  by  the  slightest  breath  of  air.  These 
surface  dusts  are  a heterogeneous  assemblage,  to  some  extent 
derived  from  the  fundamental  soil,  and  partly  by  drift  from  other 
localities,  or  by  fresh  depositions  from  the  most  recent  eruptions 
of  the  yet  active  volcanoes  of  the  Republic.  A little  wav  below 
the  surface  one  comes  to  a vast  deposit  of  pumice,  not  in  blocks 
or  lumps  that  would  be  termed  pumice-stone,  but  in  fragments 
which  have  been  ejected  during  some  terrific  convulsion,  or  period 
of  eruptions.  The  town  of  Ambato  is  built  on  this  deposit.1  The 
comparative  coarseness  of  the  fragments  seems  to  indicate  that 

the  place  of  eruption  was  not  far  distant.  The  largest  ones  may 

measure  a quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  weigh  as  much  as 
^ to  ^ of  a grain.  They  more  commonly  weigh  about  thirty  to  a 
grain,  and  range  in  size  from  ’05  to  T of  an  inch  in  diameter. 

Pumice  in  lumps  or  masses  no  doubt  exists  in  large  quan- 
tities in  the  interior  of  Ecuador,  though  I saw  little  of  it.  The 

largest  pieces  I found  in  .situ  were  upon  the  summit  ridge  of 

the  highest  point  of  Pichincha,  and  these  were  scarcely  a foot 
in  diameter.  Natural  blocks  of  it  are  sometimes  hollowed  out 
and  employed  as  filters,  and  there  was  one  of  these  in  daily  use 
in  the  house  of  Seuor  Duprat. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey,  this  pumiceous  dust  was  met 
with  again,  overlain  by  other  dusts  which  had  been  ejected  during 


1 It  lias  been  examined  microscopically  by  Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney  and  Miss 
Catherine  A.  Raisin,  who  have  favoured  me  with  the  following  report.  “ The 
material  is  mainly  a colourless,  vesicular  pumice.  Much  of  it  is  quite  clear,  but 
many  of  the  fragments  have  entangled  within  them  some  small  microliths,  and 
also  plates  of  a pale  greenish  mica,  which  occurs  occasionally  in  small  clearly- 
defined  crystals,  shewing  pseudo-hexagonal  form  ('02  mm.  to  '01  mm.  diameter). 
Some  of  the  mica  has  a yellowish  or  brownish  colour.  Small  spheroidal  blebs 
occur  within  the  pumice,  brownish  and  granular,  which  appear  to  be  a deposit 
coloured  by  oxide  of  iron.” 


CHAP.  IV. 


PUMICE. 


95 


subsequent  eruptions.  At  the  town  of  Machachi,  more  than 
fifty  miles  away,  it  was  found  ten  feet  below  the  surface,  covered 
by  three  beds  of  volcanic  ash  which  amounted  in  the  aggregate 
to  52  inches  in  thickness, 
of  an  entirely  different 
nature,  each  having  a 
strongly  marked  character 
of  its  own.  The  pumice 
here  is  in  extremely  min- 
ute fragments.  It  is  rare 
to  find  amongst  it  one  as 
much  as  of  an  inch  in 

diameter.  The  majority 

are  much  smaller,  and 
many  thousands  go  to  a 
grain.  From  the  critical 
examination  to  which  it 
has  been  subjected,  there  is 
no  doubt  that  the  pumice 
at  Machachi  was  ejected 
at  the  same  period  as  that 
at  Ambato  ; and  from  hav- 
ing superimposed  upon  it 
other  vast  beds  of  ash,  from 
eruptions  v;hich  occurred 
beyond  the  range  of  his- 
tory, one  may  conclude 
that  it  is  amongst  the 

older  of  the  more  recent  volcanic  products  of  Ecuador.  It  is  the 
invariable  rule  with  volcanic  dusts  that  the  grosser  particles  settle 
first ; and,  as  the  finest  ones  are  found  much  to  the  north  of  Am- 
bato, it  would  appear  that  the  dominant  winds,  at  the  time  the 
dust  was  blown  into  the  air,  were  directed  from  south  to  north. 

There  were  some  pleasant  walks  on  the  western  side  of  the 


96 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  it. 


town  amongst  which  we  sauntered  for  recreation.  One  day, 
Jean -Antoine  and  I came  upon  a tame  llama,  browsing  by  the 
side  of  a lane.  It  was  the  first  my  companion  had  seen,  and 
he  approached  the  animal  to  stroke  its  nose  ; but  alas,  when  he 
was  within  a couple  of  yards,  the  gentle  creature  reared  its 
pretty  head  and  spat  in  his  face.  Carrel  was  greatly  affronted, 
and  to  soothe  his  ruffled  feelings  I proposed  a walk  in  the 
garden  of  the  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs,  a shady  retreat  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  little  river  that  flows  through  the  town. 
Presently  we  saw  a Bishop  amongst  the  bushes.  His  Lordship 
was  dressed  in  orange  and  black,  and  had  very  hairy  legs.  We 
did  not,  however,  at  that  time  know  it  was  a Bishop,  or  we  should 
have  been  more  discreet. 

Jean -Antoine  unceremo- 
niously clapped  him  on  the 
back,  then  gave  a great 
yell,  and  the  Bishop  flew 
away.  I conjecture  that 
Ambato  has  been  unfortu- 
nate in  its  episcopal  rulers, 
for  nothing  can  well  be 
more  stinging  than  the 
charges  of  this  insect. 

Though  Louis  began  to  improve,  it  was  evident  that  a long 
time  would  elapse  before  we  could  count  upon  his  assistance, 
and  we  others  had  to  consider  what  we  should  do  with  our- 
selves. Tunguragua  was  the  nearest  large  mountain  to  Ambato. 
and  this  had  been  already  investigated  by  Messrs.  Reiss  and 
Stiibel.1  Altar  and  Sangai  were  too  far  away.  After  many  con- 

i Some  account  of  Tunguragua  is  given  in  the  little  pamphlet  by  Dr.  Stiibel 
entitled  Carta  del  Dr.  Alfonso  Stiil>el  a S.  E.  el  Presidente  de  la  Republica,  sobre 
sus  viajes  a las  rnontanas  Chimborazo , Altar,  y en  especial  sobre  sus  ascensiones  al 
Tunguragua  y Cotopaxi.  Quito,  1873. 

Tunguragua  does  not  keep  in  a state  of  continual  activity  like  Cotopaxi  and 
Sangai,  though  it  is  by  no  means  an  extinct  volcano.  It  broke  out  into  violent 


CHAP.  IV. 


THE  BASIN  OF  AMBATO. 


97 


sultations  it  was  determined  to  sliift  head-quarters  to  Maehachi 
where  Jean  - Antoine  and  I could  find  occupation  until  the  dis- 
abled man  had  recovered.  On  Jan.  24  we  marched  to  Latacunga, 
and  on  the  25th  to  Maehachi  ; as  usual,  with  a train  of  mules,  for 
no  vehicle — not  even  a bullock-cart — could  be  obtained  at  Ambato.1 

The  basin  of  Ambato,  which  we  traversed  on  the  24th.  is 
bounded  on  the  south  by  a spur  thrown  out  from  Carihuairazo 
in  the  direction  of  Tunguragua  ; on  the  west  by  low  mountains 
for  which  I heard  no  distinctive  name  ; and  on  the  east  by  an 
important  block,  containing  lofty  summits,  that  are  known  under 
the  general  appellation  of  the  mountains  of  Llanganati.2  On 
approaching  Latacunga  the  slopes  draw  in  from  each  side,  and 
form  the  northern  boundary  of  the  basin,  and  after  passing  the 
town  they  again  retire,  and  circle  round  what  may  be  termed 
the  basin  of  Latacunga,  which  is  bounded  and  enclosed  on  the 
north  by  the  Tiupullo  ridge.  The  Liver  Cutuchi  drains  the 

basin  of  Latacunga,  and  has  not  a deep  bed.  After  passing  the 
town,  until  near  Banos,  this  same  river  is  called  the  Patate, 
and  throughout  the  greater  part  of  its  course  flows  through  a 
deep  and  striking  ravine,  a portion  of  which  is  well  seen  from 
the  village  of  Yambo.  The  Liver  Pastassa  is  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  Patate  and  the  Liver  Cham  bo,  coming  from  the 
basin  of  Eiobamba. 

The  town  of  Ambato  is  at  the  lowest  point  of  the  road 
(8600  feet),  which  rises  gently  almost  all  the  way  to  Latacunga 

eruption  on  Jan.  12,  1886,  and,  I am  informed  by  Mr.  Chambers,  did  much  damage. 
Ash  from  this  outburst  fell  at  Guayaquil. 

1 At  this  time  an  omnibus  ran  from  Ambato  to  Quito  once  a week,  leaving  at 
mid-day  on  Tuesdays,  and  arriving  at  its  destination  about  4 p.m.  on  Wednes- 
days. The  seats  had  been  engaged  in  advance,  and  we  were  thus  unable  to  make 
use  of  it.  This  was  the  only  coach  of  any  sort  running  in  the  interior  of  Ecuador. 

- The  importance  of  the  mountains  of  Llanganati  will  not  be  apprehended  by 
any  one  passing  along  the  Quito  road.  Their  outlying  portions,  which  are  alone 
seen,  do  not  suggest  the  rugged  and  complicated  ranges  that  are  in  the  rear.  The 
complete  exploration  of  this  district  alone  would  afford  a traveller  good  occupation 
for  several  years. 


O 


98 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  iv. 


(9140),  a place  with  perhaps  5000  inhabitants,  built  on  rather 
flat  ground,  dangerously  near  to  a stream  that  is  liable  to  sudden 
swellings  when  Cotopaxi  is  in  eruption.  We  went  by  advice  to  the 
little  hotel  of  Pompeyo  Baquero, — the  best  kept  house  we  entered 
in  Ecuador.  Everything  was  clean,  and  the  place  was  free  from 
fleas,  a fact  which  was  the  more  welcome  because  Ambato  was 
densely  populated  with  these  wild  animals.  In  the  apartments 
we  had  just  quitted  there  were  more  fleas  per  square  yard  than 
I have  known  anywhere.  When  rays  of  sunlight  streamed  in 
through  the  windows,  a sort  of  haze  was  seen  extending  about  a 
foot  above  the  floor,  caused  by  myriads  of  them  leaping  to  and  fro. 

The  favourable  impression  which  was  created  by  the  pro- 
priety of  Baquero’s  hotel  was  utterly  destroyed  by  what  we  saw 
upon  leaving  this  town.  At  the  door  of  every  house  on  the 
sunny  side  of  the  street  leading  to  the  bridge,  the  ladies  of 
Latacunga  were  basking  in  the  warmth.  Mothers  had  their 
children  reposing  in  their  laps,  and  daughters  seemed  to  be 
caressing  their  parents.  To  the  non-observant  they  would  have 
formed  sweet  pictures  of  parental  and  filial  affection.  A glance 
was  enough  to  see  that  all  this  assemblage  were  engaged  in  eating 
the  vermin  which  they  picked  out  of  each  other’s  hair.  Accord- 
ing to  the  old  historians,  this  habit  was  established  in  the  country 
before  the  Spanish  conquest.  It  is  practised  now  by  the  hybrid 
Ecuadorian  race  as  much  as  by  the  pure  Indians.  There  were 
more  than  two  dozen  groups  on  one  side  of  this  single  street 
engaged  in  this  revolting  occupation,  which  they  carried  on  with- 
out shame  in  the  most  public  manner.  Though  I shook  the 
dust  of  this  town  off  my  feet,  it  was  impossible  to  forget  the 
Ladies  of  Latacunga,  for  the  same  disgusting  sight  was  forced 
upon  our  attention  throughout  the  whole  of  the  interior. 

Upon  leaving  the  town,  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Perring, 
we  took  the  road  on  the  right  bank  (western  side)  of  the  Cutuchi. 
This  part  of  the  Moreno  road  was  erased  during  the  eruptions  of 
Cotopaxi  in  1877,  and  no  doubt  it  will  be  swept  away  again. 


CHAP.  IV. 


A VALIANT  INN-KEEPER. 


99 


as  it  is  very  slightly  higher  than  the  ordinary  level  of  the  river. 
Scarcely  a person  was  seen  between  Latacunga  and  Callo,  for 
the  arrieros  (who  form  almost  the  whole  of  the  travelling  popu- 
lation of  the  country)  prefer  the  old  road  on  the  left  bank  (eastern 
side),  as  this  is  more  elevated  above  the  stream,  and  has  con- 
tiguous rising  ground  to  which  they  can  escape  in  case  of  inun- 
dation. The  two  roads  reunite  just  to  the  north  of  Callo, — 
one  of  the  bladder-like  hills,  common  in  Ecuador,  that  are  termed 
‘panecillos/  Here  one  commences  the  ascent  of  the  Tiupullo 
ridge  (a  sort  of  connecting  link  between  Illiniza  and  Rumiuahui), 
and  rising  in  serpentine  bends  reaches  the  height  of  11,559  feet;1 
and  then,  after  passing  a gently  undulating  tract  which  may 
almost  be  compared  with  the  Surrey  highlands,  descends  by 
somewhat  abrupt  zigzags  into  the  basin  of  Machachi.  Daylight 
had  gone  when  we  entered  upon  the  longest  piece  of  straight 
road  in  Ecuador,  and  it  seemed  interminable  in  the  darkness. 
When  we  arrived  at  the  village  every  one  had  fastened  up  for 
the  night  and  gone  to  bed.  Pleadings  for  admittance  were  un- 
heeded, so  the  effect  of  whip-handles  and  hob-nailed  boots  was 
tried.  Presently  a husband  and  wife  were  heard  in  consultation. 
“My  dear,”  said  the  masculine  voice,  “it’s  robbers;  you  had  better 
go  to  the  door.”  It  was  opened  very  reluctantly  by  a dishevelled 
female,  who  found  it  was  “ only  the  gringos,”  and  at  length  the  way 
into  the  courtyard  was  unbarred,  and  admitted  us  to  the  tambo 
kept  by  Antonio  Racines,  who  became  our  host  for  several  weeks. 

1 This  is  the  height  of  the  summit  of  the  road.  The  highest  points  upon  this 
ridge  are  three  small  peaks  called  Chaupi,  which  can  be  seen  from  long  distances. 
The  view  from  the  top  of  the  Tiupullo  ridge  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  in  Ecuador. 
It  embraces  Tunguragua  and  Chimborazo  on  the  south ; Illiniza,  Cotopaxi,  and 
Kuminahui  close  at  hand;  and  extends  as  far  north  as  Cotocachi  (distant  seventy- 
five  miles).  The  city  of  Quito  cannot,  however,  be  seen  from  it. 


ONE  OF  MY  YOUNG  FRIENDS. 


CHAPTER  V. 

OX  AX  ASOEXT  OF  CORAZOX,  AXD  WALKS  IX  TIIE  LAXES  OF 

MACHACHI. 

Certain  circumstances  led  me  to  say  in  the  morning,  “ Senor 
Racines,  now  tell  me,  upon  your  word  of  honour  as  a gentle- 
man, Are  there  fleas  in  this  house?”  There  was  just  a fractional 
hesitation,  and  then  the  tambo-keeper  answered  with  the  air  of 
a man  who  spoke  the  truth,  “ Senor,  upon  my  word  of  honour, 
there  are.”  The  information  had  been  confirmed  beforehand. 
It  was  decided  to  have  a general  clear  out,  and  Jean-Antoine, 
to  his  credit,  became  chief  housemaid.  The  contents  of  our 
apartments  were  taken  into  the  gallery  of  the  courtyard,  and 
were  scrubbed,  brushed,  beaten  or  shaken,  much  to  the  wonder 
of  the  natives.  The  news  spread,  and  soon  the  patio  was  filled 
with  a troop  of  sallow  urchins,  grinning  from  ear  to  ear. 
“ These  gringos  are  very  odd,”  they  said.  “ See  ! that  is  the 
Senor  patron.  Look!” — pointing  to  Jean-Antoine — “that  is 

Senor  Juan.  What  a fine  beard!” 


CHAP.  V. 


LIFE  IN  THE  INTERIOR. 


101 


In  these  operations  Lonis  could  not  be  of  much  service,  as 
he  needed  absolute  repose.  His  time  was  principally  employed 
in  the  study  of  a coarsely-coloured  print  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception,  and  in  watching  a little  girl  in  blue,  at  the  general 
shop  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  who  alternated  the  sale 
of  rolls  with  the  occupation  of  the  Ladies  of  Latacunga.  When 

he  began  to  hobble  about,  and  could  sit  in  a chair  on  our  little 

balcony,  life  became  more  interesting  to  him  ; for  his  eye  could 
sweep  over  the  whole  of  the  great  basin  of  Machachi,  and  trace 
the  Quito  road  from  Tambillo  to  the  Tiupullo  ridge,  with  the 
passing  herds  of  cattle  ; or  see,  right  in  front,  the  daily  thunder- 
clouds gather  round  the  cliffs  of  Ruminahui  and  Pasoehoa,  and, 
in  the  vista  between  the  two,  the  needle-crest  of  Sincholagua, 
or,  on  rare  occasions,  the  noble,  snow-clad  mass  of  Antisana. 

From  our  windows  on  the  upper  floor  of  the  tambo,  all  that 
passed  on  the  road  came  under  our  inspection.  In  the  early 
morning  cattle  were  shifted  from  one  place  to  another,  and  some- 
times a wild  bull  went  along,  in  charge  of  mounted  men,  lassoed 
fore  and  aft ; a horseman  in  the  front  towing  it  by  the  horns, 
and  two  others  each  with  a separate  fastening  in  the  rear,  ready 
to  check  its  pace  if  it  became  too  frisky,  or  to  give  it  a touch 
with  their  lances  if  it  needed  stimulus. 

As  day  advanced,  arrieros  with  their  teams  made  their 

appearance,  and  they  constituted  the  greater  part  of  the  passers- 
by.  Though  travelling  for  the  sake  of  viewing  their  country 
is  a thing  unpractised  by  Ecuadorians,  we  saw  occasionally 

some  one  a little  out  of  the  common,  going  perhaps  on  a visit 
to  a neighbouring  farm,  and  such  a person  was  generally  worth 
examination.  When  got  up  correctly,  he  wears  a so-called 
Panama  hat,  a straw  hat  which  will  roll  up  and  can  be  put  in 
the  pocket,  and  may  cost  anything  between  ten  shillings  and 
ten  pounds.1  To  take  care  of  this  precious  article  he  puts  on 
a white  outer  casing,  but  as  this  would  get  spoiled  by  rain  he 
1 The  lowest  price  I heard  quoted  in  Quito  was  nine  shillings. 


102 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  v. 


covers  it  with  oilskin,  so  that  he  has  three  hats  one  on  top  of 
the  other.  To  protect  his  eyes  he  ought  to  use  a pair  of  blue 
goggles.  Outside,  he  displays  a poncho  of  superior  quality,  and 
underneath  it  there  are  several  of  a coarser  kind.1  What  he 
may  wear  in.  the  way  of  trousers  cannot  be  said,  for  they  are 
covered  up  by  buskins  made  from  the  skin  of  some  wild  animal, 
and  his  feet  are  nearly  invisible.  If  seen,  one  most  likely  observes 
that  his  toes  are 
peeping  through 
his  shoes.  But 
for  all  deficien- 
cies thereabouts 
he  makes  up  in 
the  heel,  by  his 
spurs,  which  are 

gigantic.  The  annexed  figure  represents  what  is  considered  a 
moderate  thing  in  spurs.2  If  he  is  properly  fitted  out,  he  carries 
at  the  button-hole  a carved  drinking-cup,  and  at  his  side  a tre- 
mendous sheath-knife,  or 
via  chef  a,  an  article  that 
is  supposed  to  be  neces- 
sary for  clearing  away 
branches.  A person  of 
distinction  will  be  strong 
in  his  whip,  which  will 
have  a wrought  - iron 
handle,  as  it  is  found  that  that  description  does  not  break  so 
readily  on  the  head  of  a mule  as  a wooden  one,  and  he  will  carry 
a guitar  at  his  saddle-bow.  Such  a person,  according  to  the  phrase 
i The  ponchos  in  most  general  use  were  coarse  woollen  ones,  measuring 
52  x 52  inches.  They  cost  seven  or  eight  shillings  apiece,  and  seemed  usually 
to  be  made  locally.  There  was  a poncho-maker  nearly  opposite  to  us  at  Maeh- 
achi.  In  Quito  and  to  the  north,  cotton  ponchos  are  frequently  worn.  They  are 
both  lighter  and  cheaper. 

3 The  rowels  sometimes  measure  five  inches  across. 


CHAP.  V. 


MY  YOUNG  FRIENDS. 


103 


of  the  country,  is  ‘a  great  cavalier,’  and  if  he  is  decently  mounted 
he  may  aspire  to  marry  any  woman  in  the  land. 

In  the  evening,  when  traffic  ceased,  the  youth  of  the  fau- 
bourg turned  out  for  the  only  pastime  they  enjoyed,  which 
consisted  in  whacking  a huge  ball  in  the  air  by  clubs 
fastened  around  their  wrists.  The  Christian  names  of 
the  children  of  this  place  were  of  the  fanciful  kind 
common  in  Ecuador.  Fidelity  might  be  seen  playing 
with  Conception,  or  Incarnation  running  after  Immor- 
tality. They  became  useful  as  collectors,  and  angled 
for  reptiles  which  they  would  not  dare  to  touch,  and 
brought  them  in  alive,  dangling  from  cotton  nooses 
at  the  end  of  sticks.1  “ What,”  my  young  friends 
timidly  enquired  of  the  dusky  Indian  youth  who  was 
nominal  waiter  and  actual  slave  at  the  tambo,  “ does 
the  Senor  Doctor  do  with  all  these  things  ?”  and,  when 
it  was  heard  that  they  were  collected  with  a view  to 
the  future,  the  rumour  was  circulated  that  we  lived 
on  lizards  and  frogs,  and  were  thought  more  odd  than 
before. 

M achachi  reposes  upon  a series  of  strata  of  vol- 
canic ash  or  dust  which  must  have  been  emitted  dur- 
ing eruptions  incomparably  more  severe  than  any  that 
are  recorded.  The  sections  which  can  be  seen  by  the 
sides  of  the  lanes  shew  this  very  clearly.  In  one  th<jt 
was  exposed  in  the  road  nearly  opposite  to  the  tambo, 
leading  to  the  village  proper,  the  surface  soil  which 
was  under  cultivation  was  about  six  feet  deep,  composed  of  a mis- 
cellaneous assemblage  of  volcanic  debris.  This  was  followed  by 
a horizontal  stratum  of  the  finest  ash,  ten  inches  thick,  almost 
as  soft  to  the  touch  as  cotton-wool.  It  was  perfectly  uniform 
in  character  throughout ; composed  of  infinitesimal  fragments, 

1 Nothing  would  induce  Ecuadorians  — either  whites  or  Indians  — to  touch 
lizards,  and  they  were  almost  equally  afraid  to  handle  frogs. 


104 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  v. 


and  may  properly  be  termed  an  impalpable  powder.  It  is  found 
to  be  principally  made  up  of  felspar  and  hornblende,  with  some 
pumice  and  a small  admixture  of  mica  and  magnetic  particles.1 

Underneath  it  comes  a 
dark  and  comparatively 
coarse  basaltic  (?)  ash,  two 
feet  and  a half  thick  ; and 
this  is  succeeded  bv  a finer 
ash  of  the  same  nature, 
one  foot  deep.  In  these 
two  strata,  three  feet  and 
a half  thick,  pumice  occurs 
only  in  small  quantities. 
U nderneath  them , extend- 
ing how  deep  I do  not 
know,  there  is  a fine  and  brilliantly  white  dust  of  a totally  dis- 
tinct character  from  all  above  it.  This  mainly  consists  of  pumice, 
and  closely  approximates  in  its  constitution  to  the  coarser  ash 
which  was  found  at  Ambato  (see  pp.  94— 5). 2 These  four  beds  are 

1 Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney  and  Miss  Raisin  say  : “ It  consists  largely  of  mineral 
fragments,  which  are  often  of  broken  crystalline  form.  The  coarser  vary  from 
•05  to  '15  mm.  in  length,  the  finer  may  average  from  '01  to  '02  mm.  Pumice 
is  present,  some  of  it  enclosing  fairly  large  crystals.  The  minerals  in  the  ash  are 
chiefly  felspar  (some  being  contained  within  the  pumice)  and  green  pyroxene,  so  far 
as  could  be  ascertained,  hornblende.  A few  largish  chips  of  brown  mica  occur, 
and  some  black  opaque  grains,  probably  an  iron  oxide.  The  finest  dust  seems  to 
consist  chiefly  of  felspar  and  of  pumice.” 

2 Almost  the  sole  point  of  difference  between  them  is  that  the  Ambato  deposit 
contains  a considerable  percentage  of  rocky  fragments.  This  is  better  seen  in 
bulk  than  in  microscopic  samples. 

“ The  lowest  stratum  at  Machachi  consists  mainly  of  clear,  colourless  vesicular 
pumice,  which  includes  greenish  mica,  some  in  minute  hexagonal  plates.  This 
ash  is  very  like  that  from  Ambato  ” (described  on  p.  94),  “but  is  rather  clearer, 
having  fewer  of  the  microlithic  aggregations,  and  it  contains  more  numerous  grains 
of  a clear  felspar,  mostly  in  angular  chips.  Brown  or  greenish  spheroids  occur, 
which  are  probably  similar  to  those  of  Ambato  ; they  are  very  regular  in  form, 
sometimes  shewing  rounded  holes  or  granular  structure,  and  they  rather  mimic 
the  appearance  of  casts  of  organisms.” — Prof.  T.  (1.  Bonney  and  Miss  C.  A.  Raisin. 


SURFACE  SOIL.  SIX  FEET 


TRACHYTIC  DUST,  TEN  INCHES 


FINER  BASALTIC  ASH,  TWELVE  INCHES 

. 


VOLCANIC  DUST,  DEPTH  UNKNOWN 


CHAP.  V. 


TEE  BASIN  OF  MACE  AC  HI. 


105 


divided  from  one  another  almost  as  sharply  as  in  the  section  upon 
p.  104,  and  each  evidently  belongs  either  to  a single  eruption,  or 
period  of  eruptions. 

Machachi  is  situated 1 towards  the  bottom  of  a basin  measur- 
ing about  twenty  - one  miles  from  north  to  south  and  eleven 
from  east  to  west,  which  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Tam- 
billo  ridge  (a  modest  eminence  connecting  the  lower  slopes  of 
Atacatzo  with  the  Puengasi  ridge),  on  the  south  by  the  Tiupullo 
ridge,  on  the  east  by  Ruminahui  and  Pasochoa,  and  on  the  west 
by  the  north-eastern  slopes  of  Illiniza,  Corazon,  and  the  south- 
eastern slopes  of  Atacatzo.  The  elevation  of  this  area  is  greater 
than  the  basins  of  Latacunga  or  Riobamba,  and  with  the  excep- 
tion of  its  north-east  corner  it  is  everywhere  more  than  10,000 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  drainage  of  the  basin  is  collected  into 
a small  stream  called  the  Rio  Grande,2  which  passes  to  the  east 
of  the  Puengasi  ridge,  and  ultimately  falls  into  the  Pacific  at 
Esmeraldas.  The  high  road  to  Quito3  runs  very  directly  across 
the  bottom  of  this  basin,  falling  slightly  the  whole  way  from 
south  to  north,  as  far  as  the  little  cluster  of  houses  called  Tam- 
billo,  where  the  ascent  of  the  ridge  of  the  same  name  commences  ; 
and,  when  this  is  passed,  the  basin  of  Quito  is  entered,  and  the 
road  again  falls  continuously  towards  the  capital. 

Illiniza,  Corazon,  Atacatzo,  Pasochoa,  and  Ruminahui  stand 

1 The  tambo  and  a long  line  of  straggling  houses  are  upon  the  high  road,  but 
the  town  (or  village)  proper  of  Machachi  is  about  three-quarters  of  a mile  to  the 
east.  The  entire  population  amounts  perhaps  to  2500  persons. 

2 Where  we  crossed  it  on  our  way  to  Pedregal  it  was  not  more  than  two  feet 
deep  and  fifty  across.  It  was  frequently  remarked  that  the  volume  of  water  in 
the  streams  was  exceedingly  small,  considering  the  areas  drained  by  them.  This 
is  no  doubt  due  to  the  soil  being  greatly  fissured.  In  December,  I walked  across 
the  Chimbo  at  Guaranda  from  stone  to  stone  without  wetting  my  feet.  The  bridge 
seemed  dangerously  low,  but  I was  informed  by  the  authorities  that  it  was  never 
in  risk  of  being  carried  away,  although  the  rainfall  there,  as  well  as  in  the  in- 
terior generally,  was  considerable. 

3 In  Jan.,  Feb.,  and  June  I measured  22,385  feet  where  it  runs  across  the 
plain.  The  measurement  extended  from  the  most  northern  house  of  Machachi  to 
the  fine  bridge  of  Jambeli,  the  largest  structure  of  its  kind  I saw  in  Ecuador. 

P 


100 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  v. 


around  the  rim  of  the  basin  of  Machachi.  The  imposing  figures 
which  are  given  upon  my  map  as  their  elevations  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  may  lead  some  to  suppose  that  this  mountain 
panorama  must  he  exceptionally  fine.  From  more  than  one  reason 
this  is  not  the  case.  It  should  be  understood  that  in  the  heart  of 
the  Ecuadorian  Andes  there  are  no  such  rugged  chains  as  are 
considered  Alpine.1  The  character  of  much  of  the  interior  is  hilly 
rather  than  mountainous.  There  are  long  stretches  of  barren  soil, 
for  which  the  term  moorland  is  the  nearest  English  equivalent ; 
and  large,  flat  or  slightly  undulating  areas  which  may  not 
improperly  be  called  plains.2  The  elevation  of  this  land  is  about 
9000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  out  of  (or  from  and  above)  it  the 
mountains  rise  which  have  a world -wide  reputation;  and  in 
considering  them  it  is  necessary,  in  order  to  form  a just  con- 
ception of  their  absolute  magnitude,  and  of  their  relative  impor- 
tance as  compared  with  well  - known  peaks  in  the  Alps  and 
elsewhere,  to  apply  a constant  deduction  of  8-9000  feet  to  the 
heights  which  they  are  stated  to  rise  above  the  sea -level.  This 
is  not  all.  The  lower  slopes  of  most  of  the  mountains  of  the 
interior  are  unusually  long,  and  rise  at  very  moderate  inclina- 
tions,3 and  the  amount  of  precipitous  ground  is  less  in  proportion 
to  the  total  height  than  is  commonly  the  case  elsewhere.  By 
reason  of  this,  it  is  possible  to  take  beasts  of  burden  to  the 
great  heights  that  are  mentioned  throughout  this  volume.  From 
my  mountaineer’s  point  of  view  some  of  these  peaks  13,000  feet 
and  upwards  in  elevation  were  contemptible,  for  to  all  appear- 
ance, by  exercising  a little  ingenuity,  one  could  ride  to  their 
summits  on  the  back  of  a mule  or  donkey.4 

1 The  only  exception  to  this  general  statement  may  perhaps  be  found  in  the 
mountains  of  Llanganati. 

2 Such  as  the  plains  of  Riobamba,  Machachi,  and  Tumbaco. 

3 This  applies  only  to  the  interior.  The  western  (or  outer)  slopes  of  the 
Pacific  Range  of  Ecuador  would  be  accounted  steep  by  any  one. 

4 This  was  the  case  with  Pasochoa  (13,901)  and  Atacatzo  (14,892).  We  actually 
took  a donkey  above  14,000  feet  on  Pichincha. 


CHAP.  V. 


A RED-LETTER  DAY. 


107 


Illiuiza  was  obviously  the  loftiest  of  the  several  mountains 
which  have  been  enumerated,  and  I sent  Jean-Antoine  on  Jan. 
29-30  to  reconnoitre  it ; but  as  he  reported  that  it  was  nearly 
inaccessible  from  the  north  we  turned  our  attentions  to  Corazon, 
at  first  ludicrously  under-estimating  its  distance.  We  went  out 
late  one  day,  expecting  to  reach  the  top  and  come  back  again, 
and  did  not  even  get  to  the  foot  of  the  actual  peak.  This, 
however,  was  a red  - letter  day — we  saw  a dead  donkey,  under  a 
hedge  about  1500  feet  above  Machachi  ; and  a few  hundred  feet 
higher  met  a scorpion  who  was  coming  downhill.1 

Corazon  was  ascended  a century  and  a half  ago  by  La  Con- 
damine  and  Bouguer.  The  former  says  expressly  (at  p.  58  of 
vol.  1 of  his  Journal  du  Voyage)  that  they  made  the  expedition 
upon  July  20,  1738. 2 3 In  the  prosecution  of  their  work,  they 
encamped  twenty  - eight  days  somewhere  upon  the  mountain 
(doubtless  upon  its  eastern  side),  but  there  are  no  precise  indi- 
cations of  the  route  which  was  taken  by  them,  nor  could  any 
information  be  obtained  at  Machachi,  though  a certain  Ecuadorian 


1 It  has  been  identified  as  Brot/ieas  subnitens,  Gervais,  by  Prof.  E.  Ray  Lankester. 

Scorpions  were  very  seldom  seen  in  the  open,  though  they  were  abundant  at 
Machachi,  and  could  be  found  almost  everywhere  by  turning  over  stones.  At 
Quito,  too,  they  were  numerous  in  old  walls.  But,  throughout  the  entire  journey, 
at  all  our  upper  camps  we  did  not  discover  a single  one,  and  they  could  hardly 
have  been  overlooked,  as  the  ground  was  always  levelled  for  the  establishment 
of  the  tents.  It  is  probable,  therefore,  that  12,000  feet  is  about  the  upper  limit 
of  the  rauge  of  the  scorpion  in  Ecuador. 

3 “ Un  vent  froid  et  piquant  nous  couvrit  en  peu  de  temps  de  verglas  : il  nous 
fallut  en  plusieurs  endroits  gravir  contre  le  rocher,  en  nous  aidant  des  pieds  et 
des  mains : enfin  nous  atteignimes  le  sommet.  . . . Ce  sommet  dtoit  elevd  de 
250  toises  au  dessus  de  notre  signal,  et  surpassoit  de  40  le  Pic  de  Pitchincha,  oil 
nous  avions  campe  l’annee  prdcedente  ; aussi  le  mereure  dtoit-il  plus  bas  d’environ 
deux  lignes  au  Common : il  s’y  soutenoit  a 15  pouces  10  lignes.  Personne  n’a  vu 
le  barometre  si  bas  dans  Pair  libre;  et  vraisemblablement  personne  n’a  montd  a 
line  plus  grande  hauteur  : nous  etions  2470  toises  au  dessus  du  niveau  de  la  mer.” 
In  Histoire  de  V Academie  Royale  des  Sciences  (annee  1746),  Paris,  1751,  in  a list 
of  the  highest  mountains  of  ‘ the  Province  of  Quito,’  this  mountain  is  entered 
“El  Corafon,  la  plus  grande  hauteur  oil  l’on  ait  montd.” 


108 


TEA  VELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  v. 


named  Lorenzo  vowed  that  lie  had  been  to  the  top.  This  man 
was  engaged  to  act  as  our  guide.1 

The  mountain  Corazon  has  received  its  name  from  a resem- 
blance it  is  supposed  to  have  to  a heart.  It  is  a prominent  object 
from  Machachi,  placed  almost  exactly  midway  between  Atacatzo 
and  Illiniza.  Its  slopes  extend  to  the  outlying  village  of  Aloasi, 


MACHACHI  AND  CORAZON. 


and  after  rising  gently  and  then  abruptly  lead  one  to  easy  grass 
land,  which  continues  uninterruptedly  to  the  foot  of  a cliff 
about  800  feet  high,  that  is  found  at  the  top  of  the  mountain. 
With  trouble,  one  might  ride,  upon  the  eastern  side,  to  within 
a thousand  feet  of  the  summit.  On  some  days  the  mountain 
was  almost  covered  with  snow  down  to  14,500  feet,  and  on  others 
no  snow  whatever  was  seen  on  any  part  of  it. 

1 Local  guidance  is  useful  over  the  lower  slopes,  as  they  contain  large  earth- 
quake fissures  ( qucbraclas ) which  are  occasionally  quite  impassable. 


CHAP.  V. 


ASCENT  OF  CORAZON. 


109 


Lorenzo  led  us  to  a place  a long  way  to  the  south  of  the 
summit,  and  then  evidently  came  to  the  end  of  his  knowledge. 
On  his  ‘ ascent  ’ he  had  gone  as  far  as  one  can  go  with  the  hands 
in  the  pockets,  and  had  stopped  when  it  was  necessary  to  take 
them  out.1  We  continued  in  the  same  direction  to  see  what 
the  western  side  was  like,  and  presently  put  on  the  rope.  Our 
guide  was  the  first  to  be  tied  up,  and,  though  he  said  little,  his 
face  expressed  a good  deal.  Possibly  he  supposed  that  he  had 
been  inveigled  to  this  lonely  spot  to  be  sacrificed  on  the  cairn 
of  stones  put  together  by  Jean-Antoine,  which  bore  a suspicious 
resemblance  to  an  altar. 

The  western  side  of  the  highest  part  of  Corazon,  like  the 
eastern  side,  is  formed  of  a great  cliff.  Snow  gullies  run  up 
into  it,  and  one  of  these,  towards  the  south  end  of  the  ridge, 
seemed  to  promise  easy  access  to  the  summit.  We  had  oidy 
progressed  a few  yards  on  this  couloir  when  the  clatter  and  buzz 
of  falling  stones  was  heard,  which  flew  down  at  a tremendous 
pace,  quite  invisible  as  they  passed  by.  We  retired  under  cover 
of  some  rocks  to  read  the  barometer,2  and  then  returned  to  the 
south  end  of  the  peak,  skirted  the  base  of  the  eastern  cliff, 
worked  round  to  the  north  side,  and  ascended  by  the  ridge  that 
descends  towards  Atacatzo.3 

1 This  man,  however,  was  a good  fellow ; cheerful  and  willing,  and  an  excellent 
pedestrian. 

“ The  original  unreduced  reading  at  8.45  a.m.  was  17-383  inches,  temp. 
37°  Faht. 

3 Lorenzo  remained  below,  trying  to  dry  his  trousers.  We  started  from 
Machachi  at  midnight  on  Feb.  1,  reached  the  summit  at  noon  on  Feb.  2,  left  it 
at  3.10  p.m.,  and,  rejoining  our  guide,  continued  towards  Machachi  until  we  struck 
the  route  taken  on  Jan.  27 ; and  then,  as  it  was  getting  dusk  and  the  ground  was 
not  familiar  to  our  man,  thought  it  better  to  bear  away  to  the  south,  and  return 
by  the  route  which  was  taken  in  the  morning.  We  got  back  to  Machachi  at 
7.45  p.m.  , 

The  route  on  this  day  was  unnecessarily  circuitous,  and  is  not  given  on  the 
map.  The  ascent  of  Corazon  can  be  made  most  easily  by  taking  the  line  we  fol- 
lowed on  Jan.  27,  as  far  as  we  went,  and  completing  it  in  the  same  way  as  upon 
Feb.  2.  The  track  on  the  map  combines  portions  of  the  routes  of  these  two  days. 


110 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  v. 


The  upper  part  of  Corazon  is  a great  wall,  roughly  flat  on 
the  top,  which  is,  I believe,  a dyke  — a mass  of  lava  that  has 
welled  up  through  a fissure.  At  its  highest,  it  is  nearly  level 
over  a length  of  250  feet,  and  is  only  a few  yards  across  from 
east  to  west.1  At  1.15  p.m.,  on  the  highest  point,  the  mercurial 
barometer  read  16‘974  inches,  at  a temperature  of  43°  Faht. 
The  height  deduced  (15,871  feet)  is  slightly  greater  than  that 
assigned  to  the  mountain  by  La  Condamine  (2470  toises),  and 
by  Ileiss  and  Stiibel  (4810  metres).  The  extreme  difference 
between  the  three  measurements  amounts  to  seventy-five  feet. 

'there  was  on  the  summit  an 
indication  of  a previous  ascent 
in  two  dressed  fragments  of 
rock,  about  nine  inches  long, 
which  caught  the  eye  directly 
we  arrived.  They  were  a black, 
scoriaceous  lava,  similar  to  the 
highest  rock  obtained  on  Chim- 
borazo, and  subsequently  on 
various  parts  of  the  cone  of 

DRESSED  ROCKS  FOUND  ON  CORAZON. 

Cotopaxi.  I saw  no  natural 
fragments  of  it  on  Corazon,  and  therefore  conclude  that  these 
dressed  pieces  must  have  been  transported  some  distance  by  the 

> Though  the  summit  was  free  from  snow,  and  there  was  none  on  the  eastern 
side,  there  was  much  in  gullies  on  the  western  side,  and  we  fancied  there  might 
be  considerable  beds  or  even  a glacier  below.  Viewed  from  the  west  this  mountain 
would  be  considered  to  be  within  the  snow-line. 

The  theodolite  was  brought  up,  in  the  hope  that  angles  might  be  obtained. 
We  were  surrounded  by  mists  nearly  the  whole  time — sometimes  not  being  able 
to  see  the  length  of  the  summit  ridge.  For  a few  seconds  there  was  an  opening 
which  gave  a superb  view  of  Cotopaxi,  w'hitened  by  new  snow,  rising  above  the 
dark  cliffs  of  Ruminahui,  and  behind  it  the  mountains  that  lie  to  the  east  of  the 
basin  of  Ambato.  This  was  the  only  glimpse  I had  of  the  mountains  of  Llanganati, 
and  from  this  casual  glance  I think  an  explorer  of  that  region  will  find  plenty  of 
occupation,  for  the  mountains  are  close  and  steep,  and  the  region  seems  complicated. 
There  was  much  snow  upon  the  highest  points. 


CHAP.  V. 


ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  CORAZON. 


Ill 


person  or  persons  who  deposited  them  on  the  spot  where  they 
were  found.1 

The  rock  of  the  summit  is  described  by  Prof.  Bonney  as  an 
augite-andesite,2  and  closely  resembles  examples  from  several  of 
the  mountains  which  will  be  referred  to  in  later  chapters.  Its 
natural  colour  is  a slaty-grey,  but  this  is  only  apparent  in  newly- 
broken,  unweathered  fragments.  Surfaces  which  are  exposed  to 
the  atmosphere  become  a dull  red  (approximating  to  indian  red), 
and  this  colouring  doubtless  arises  from  the  rusting  of  the  iron 
that  is  present  in  these  lavas.3 

The  summit  ridge  was  by  no  means  exclusively  rocky.  The 
scoriaceous  surfaces,  by  decay,  had  been  converted  into  soil,  and 
in  the  earth  so  formed  there  was  quite  a little  flora.  I collected 
five  lichens  and  as  many  mosses,  three  Drabas,  a Lycopodium,  a 
Werneria,  and  an  Arenaria.  These  were  growing  upon  the  very 
apex  of  the  mountain,  and  from  their  abundance  and  vigorous 
condition  it  was  clear  that  most  if  not  all  of  the  species  might 
have  attained  a considerably  greater  elevation  if  there  had  been 
higher  ground  in  the  vicinity.4 

From  amongst  this  vegetation,  I disinterred  an  earthworm, 

' On  return  to  Machachi,  no  one  could  throw  light  on  the  matter.  The  objects 
appeared  to  have  been  on  the  summit  for  years  ; yet  (though  they  were  not  freshly 
dressed)  they  did  not  appear  to  be  a century  and  a half  old.  One  can  hardly  sup- 
pose that  La  Condamine  and  Bouguer  indulged  in  this  frivolity.  To  have  trimmed 
these  specimens  with  such  regularity  would  have  occupied  a considerable  length 
of  time.  They  weigh  eight  pounds. 

2 Proc.  Royal  Soc. , June  19,  1884,  and  Supp.  App.,  p.  142. 

3 The  volcanic  dusts  referred  to  on  pp.  125,  141  are  only  this  rock  in  a finely- 
divided  state.  If  some  of  it  is  placed  upon  a sheet  of  paper  and  a magnet  is  moved 
about  underneath,  it  will  appear  to  dance.  The  particles  of  iron  can  be  drawn  off 
and  separated  from  the  rocky  ones  by  means  of  the  magnet. 

< *Alectoria  divergens,  Ach.,  Gyrophora  sp.,  *Ncuroj)oyon  mclaxanthus , Nyl., 
Parmelia  sp.,  Stereocaulon  sp.;  *Andrecea  striata , Mitt.,  Bartramia  aristata,  Mitt., 
*B.  Potosica,  Mont.,  Cryptodium  lutescens,  Jaeg.,  Orlhotrichum  sp.  ; * Lycopodium 
Saururus,  L.;  *Draba  imbricata,  C.  A.  Mey.,  D.  obovata,  Benth.,  and  * another 
(not  determined);  Arenaria  dicranoides , H.B.K.  Those  marked  with  an  asterisk 
were  abundant. 


112 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  y. 


a beetle,  a bug,  and  some  spiders.  Several  species  of  flies  were 
seen  on  the  ridge,  but  I only  succeeded  in  capturing  one.  The 
earthworm  was  about  an  inch  long,  and  in  an  immature  condition. 
Prof.  W.  lb  Benham  has  referred  it  to  the  genus  Rhinodrilus  of 
Perrier,  and  thinks  it  is  probably  the  same  species  that  was  sub- 
sequently found  upon  Cayambe,  which  he  names  R.  Ecuador iensis. 1 
Few  earthworms  were  seen  at  great  elevations  in  Ecuador,  and 
the  summit  of  Corazon  was  much  the  highest  point  at  which  one 
was  obtained.  The  beetle  is  found  by  Mr.  Bates  to  belong  to 
the  genus  C'olpodes,  and  is  described  by  him  at  p.  20  of  the 
Supplementary  Appendix  (C.  diopsis).  It  was  also  taken  on 
Pichincha. 

The  scantiness  of  the  collection  on  the  summit  of  Corazon  is 
to  be  attributed  to  the  hailstorms  which  occurred  while  we  were 
there.  Rain,  sleet,  hail,  or  snow  often  impeded  or  completely 
put  a stop  to  this  description  of  work.  When  the  atmospheric 
conditions  were  favourable  something  was  always  obtained,  wher- 
ever we  went ; and  at  the  greatest  heights  I laid  hands  upon 
everything  that  was  seen,  either  animal  or  vegetable,  anticipating 
that  the  zoological  side,  at  least,  would  yield  much  new  to  science.2 
Whether  this  should  or  should  not  prove  to  be  the  case,  the  occa- 
sions afforded  ojiportunities  of  contributing  to  the  knowledge  of 
the  range  of  species  in  altitude.  The  results,  so  far  as  they  have 
been  worked  out,  are  presented  in  the  Supplementary  Appendix, 
and  in  the  Tables  in  Chapter  XIX.  the  representatives  of  the 
various  Orders  are  enumerated  which  were  obtained  at  the  most 
considerable  elevations. 

By  the  expression  range  in  altitude  I mean  the  difference  in 
level  of  the  highest  and  lowest  points  at  which  any  particular 

1 See  Chapter  XII.  This  is  the  fourth  species  that  has  been  found  of  the  genus 
Rhinodrilus.  The  three  others  came  from  Venezuela,  Surinam,  and  Demerara. 

2 Tlie  Botany  of  the  interior  of  Ecuador  had  been  investigated  by  the  late  Prof. 
William  Jameson,  who  resided  many  years  at  Quito,  and  made  excursions  in  its 
neighbourhood.  For  some  time  he  held  two  appointments  in  the  capital.  Being 
a Professor  of  Botany,  he  was  made,  very  appropriately,  Master  of  the  Mint. 


CHAP.  V. 


RANGE  IN  ALTITUDE. 


113 


species  may  be  found.1  If  one  should  be  obtained  or  observed 
at  the  level  of  the  sea  and  also  at  10,000  feet  above  it,  its  observed 
range  in  altitude  would  be  10,000  feet.  Most  things,  either  animal 
or  vegetable,  have  a much  more  limited  range  than  this,  yet  there 
are  some  which  attain  or  even  exceed  it. 

Insects  in  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator  range  higher  than 
birds.  At  the  greatest  heights  they  were  found  less  upon  the 
surface  than  in  the  soil,  sometimes  living  amongst  stones  im- 
bedded in  ice,  in  such  situations  and  numbers  as  to  preclude  the 
idea  that  they  were  stragglers.  Small  in  size,  and  unattractive  in 
appearance,  they  have  hitherto  been  entirely  overlooked.  Though 
some  species  were  obtained  at  a greater  elevation  above  the  sea 
than  I observed  the  Condor,  their  range  in  altitude  appears  to 
be  small.  They  were  found  at  these  high  situations  and  nowhere 
else,  though  the  same  species  sometimes  recurred  at  similar  eleva- 
tions upon  widely-separated  mountains. 

Few  persons  have  concerned  themselves,  in  any  part  of  the 
world,  with  entomology  at  great  altitudes.  Such  remarks  as  have 
been  made  upon  it  have  generally  had  reference  to  the  stray 
individuals  that  are  termed  stragglers,  which,  generally  being 
wind-borne,  and  found  upon  the  surface,  are  those  which  most 
readily  catch  the  eye.  Thus  Humboldt  (who  ignores2  what  may 
be  termed  the  residential  population)  says,  in  Aspects  of  Nature, 
vol.  2,  pp.  33-4 : — 

“ Even  butterflies  are  found  at  sea  at  great  distances  from  the  coast, 
being  carried  there  by  the  force  of  the  wind  when  storms  come  off  the 
land.  In  the  same  involuntary  manner  insects  are  transported  into  the  upper 
regions  of  the  atmosphere,  16,000  or  19,000  feet  above  the  plains.  The  heated 
crust  of  the  earth  occasions  an  ascending  vertical  current  of  air,  by  which 

1 Some  persons  may  attach  the  same  meaning  to  the  expression  vertical  range. 
I venture  to  think  that  term  is  not  felicitous.  Comparatively  few  things  can  be 
said  to  have  any  vertical  range,  and  many  have  none. 

2 The  Zoology  of  Humboldt  and  Bonpland’s  Voyage  contains  only  about  a dozen 
species  of  insects  for  which  localities  in  Ecuador  are  mentioned,  and  not  one  of 
these  appears  to  have  come  from  a greater  elevation  than  ten  thousand  feet. 

Q 


114 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES.  chap.  v. 


light  bodies  are  borne  upwards.  . . . When  Bonpland,  Carlos  Montufar 
and  myself  reached,  on  the  23rd  of  June,  1802,  on  the  eastern  declivity 
of  the  Chimborazo  the  height  of  19,286  English  feet,  we  saw  winged 
insects  fluttering  around  us.  We  could  see  that  they  were  Dipteras,  but 
. . . it  was  impossible  to  catch  the  insects.  . . . The  insects  were  flying 
at  a height  of  about  18,225  feet.  . . . Somewhat  lower  down,  at  about 
2600  toises  (16.680  feet),  also  therefore  within  the  line  of  perpetual 
snow,  Bonpland  had  seen  yellow  butterflies  flying  very  near  the  ground.” 

The  aim  and  intention  of  this  passage  is  to  shew  that  insects 
are  transported  involuntarily  to  great  altitudes,  and  this  un- 
questionably often  occurs.  Most  persons  who  have  travelled 
in  mountainous  regions  have  found,  at  one  or  another  time,  in 
very  elevated  situations  (sometimes  on  snow  or  glacier),  insects 
which,  from  their  known  habits  and  habitats,  cannot  have  domi- 
ciled themselves  on  the  spot ; 1 and  their  actual  transportation 
in  quantities,  in  ascending  currents  of  air,  has  occasionally  been 
witnessed.  But  it  would  he  erroneous  to  assume  that  insect-life 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  snow-line  in  Equatorial  America  is 
limited  to  stragglers,  or  that  they  form  a considerable  percentage 
of  it.  The  upper  zones  of  the  Great  Andes  have  a residential 
population.2  and  I shall  endeavour  to  shew,  at  a later  point, 
that  the  ‘yellow  butterfly/  which  Humboldt  uses  to  give  point 
to  his  remarks,  probably  comes  within  the  category  of  ‘ perma- 
nent residents  ’ ; and,  if  it  does,  it  is  not  a happy  example  of  a 
wind-borne  straggler. 

At  first,  the  dimensions  of  the  great  basin  of  Machachi  were 
underrated  or  unappreciated.  Objects  which  were  supposed  to  be 
a mile  distant  sometimes  proved  to  be  two  or  three  miles  away. 
Woods  looked  like  clumps  of  bushes,  and  impassable  ravines 
appeared  mere  ditches.  When  we  became  better  acquainted 
with  it,  the  bare,  almost  naked-looking  plain  was  found  to 

1 Examples  are  given  in  Chapters  VI.,  XIII.,  and  XV. 

2 In  the  Hupp.  App.  there  will  be  found  98  species  of  insects  which  were 
taken  at  10,000  feet  and  upwards.  Of  these,  15  are  known,  71  are  new  to  science, 
and  12  are  not  identified. 


CHAP.  V. 


.1  ZOOLOGIST'S  PARADISE. 


115 


contain  unsuspected  dells  and  nooks  decorated  with  ferns/  and 
hidden  lanes,  wandering  in  concealed  quebradas,  gay  with  Salvias, 
Fuchsias,  and  Verbenas/  giving  shelter  to  a countless  population, 
varied  in  habits,  different  in  natures,  whose  range  was  determined 
by  light  and  shade,  heat  and  cold,  moisture  and  vegetation — 
many  timid  and  shrinking  from  observation,  seldom  straying 
far  from  the  spots  that  were  home  or  habitation,  where  they 
must  be  sought  to  be  found. 

Pumas  and  deer  ranged  over  the  high,  rugged  ground ; 
foxes,  weasels,  and  opossums  dwelt  on  the  lower  slopes  ; and 
down  in  the  basin  there  was  a Zoologist’s  paradise.  Butterflies 
above,  below,  and  around ; 3 now  here,  now  there,  by  many 
turns  and  twists  displaying  the  brilliant  tesselation  of  their 
under-sides.  Some  congregated  in  clusters  on  the  banks  of 
streams  or  in  muddy  places,  while  others  sailed  in  companies 
over  the  open  plain.  Mayflies  and  Dragonflies  danced  in  the 
sunlight ; lizards 4 darted  across  the  paths  ; and  legions  of  spiders 

1 Asplenium  Trichomanes,  L.  ; Cystopteris  fragilis,  Beruh.  ; Poly  podium  athyri- 
oides,  Hook,  (abundant);  P.  angustifolium,  Sw.  ; P.  lucidum,  Bory  ; P.  murorum, 
Hook.  ; and  P.  plebejum,  Schlecht. 

2 The  following  were  some  of  the  more  common  plants  in  the  hedges  and 
ditches: — Lipidium  Ilumboldtii,  DC.;  Cassia  tomentosa,  L.  ; Ruibus  sp.  ; Fuchsia 
petiolaris,  Kth.  ; Chuquiragua  lancifolia,  H.B.K.  ; Dalea  Mulitii,  H.B.K.  ; Solatium 
ochrophyUum,  Van  Heurck  ? ; Alonsoa  caulialata,  R.  & P.  ; Salvia  vermicifolia , 
H.B.K.;  Stackys  elliplica,  H.B.K.;  Verbena  prostrata,  Br.  ; Bmiarea  Caldasiana, 
Herb.  ; and  Cyperus  melanostachyus,  H.  & K.  A very  queer  flowering-plant,  resem- 
bling a mushroom,  was  also  abundant  at  Maehachi.  It  has  been  described  in  the 
Journal  of  Botany,  June  1890,  by  Mr.  E.  G.  Baker,  who  says,  “ in  its  floral  characters 
it  resembles  Helosis,  and  in  its  rhizome  Coryneea  ; it  is  therefore  interesting  as  form- 
ing a connecting  link  between  these  two  genera.  This  will  make  the  third  species 
of  Helosis,  the  others  being  11.  Quyanensis,  Rich.,  and  II.  Mexicana,  Lieb.” 

a We  obtained  a Sterorna  ; three  species  of  Pedaliodes ; Lymanopoda  bcena,  Hew.  ; 
L.  tener,  Hew.;  Agratdis  glycera,  Feld.;  Pyrameis  huntera  (Fabr.)  ; P.  carye 
(Hiibn.);  Junonia  vellida  (Fabr.);  Lycieua  ko/i.  Druce  : L.  Andicola,  n.sp.  ; *Pieris 
xanlhodice,  Lucas;  P.  madella,  Feld.;  Colias  lesbia  (Fabr.);  * C.  dimer  a,  Doubl.  & 
Hew.  ; Papilio  Americus,  Kollar ; Pamphila  phylieus  (Drury);  and  an  Ancyloxypha. 
Those  marked  with  an  asterisk  were  very  numerous. 

4 Liocephalus  trachyciphalus  (A.  Dum.). 


lie 


TRAVELS  AMONG  ST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  v. 


pervaded  the  grass,  many  very  beautiful  — frosted-silver  backs, 
or  curious,  like  the  saltigrades,  who  took  a few  steps  aud  then 
gave  a leap.  There  were  crickets  in  infinite  numbers;  and 

flies  innumerable,  from  slim  daddy-long-legs  to  ponderous,  black, 
hairy  fellows  known  to  science  as  Dejeaniie ; hymenopterous 
insects  in  profusion,  including  our  old  friend  the  Bishop  of 
Ambato,  in  company  with  another  formidable  stinger,  with  chrome 
antennae,  called  by  the  natives  * the  Devil  ’ ; and  occasional 
Phasmas  (caballo  de  palo)  crawling  painfully  about,  like  animated 
twigs.1 

In  the  early  morning  it  was  generally  fine,  though  seldom 
clear.  The  weather  always  degenerated  as  day  advanced,  and  at 
noon  the  sun  was  scarcely  ever  seen.  Soon  afterwards  gathering 
clouds  proclaimed  a coming  storm.  When  the  thunder-echoes 
ceased  to  roll  between  Corazon  and  Rumifialmi,  Jean-Antoine 
and  I used  to  turn  out  for  our  walks  in  the  lanes  of  Machachi. 
The  short  equatorial  day  was  nearly  over.  The  hum  of  the  bee 
and  the  chirping  of  the  cricket  had  ceased,  and  the  toilers  in 
the  fields  had  already  retired.  We  met  no  one,  and  there  were 
no  sounds  (except  perhaps  the  distant  notes  of  a reed-pipe 
played  by  some  Indian  lad  wending  his  way  homewards)  until 
the  frogs2  began  their  music;  and  when  this  presently  died  away, 

1 The  following  Beetles,  first  obtained  at  Machachi,  are  described  in  the  Supp. 
App.,  pp.  8-65 : — Anixotarxux  Bradyto'idex,  Pelmatellux  varii/>es,  P.  oxynodex, 
Pteroxtichux  liodex , Colpodes  alticola,  Uroxys  latesulcatus,  Clavipalpus  Whymperi , 
Barotheux  Andinux,  * Buryxenux  cequatorius,  and  Euryxthea  angustieollis,  by  Mr. 
II.  W.  Bates ; Philonthux  Whymperi,  * P.  divixus,  Meloe  xexguttatux,  and  Ananca 
debilix,  by  Dr.  D.  Sharp ; Axlylus  bis-xexgultatus  (the  most  widely  distributed 
beetle  in  the  interior  of  Ecuador,  found  almost  everywhere  between  9000  and 
13,500  feet)  by  the  Rev.  H.  S.  Gorham  ; and  * Naupactus  xegnipes  by  Mr.  A.  S. 
Olliff.  Those  marked  by  an  asterisk  were  only  found  at  Machachi.  The  rest 
were  subsequently  obtained  elsewhere,  at  similar,  or  at  slightly  higher  and  lower 
elevations. 

2 Phryniscus  hevis , Gthr.  ; Ilylodex  unistrigatux , Gtlir.  ; and  Nolot  rerun  mar- 
siipiatum  (Dum.  ifc  Bibr.).  The  Ilylodex  (so-called  ‘ tree-frogs  ’)  were  taken  on  the 
ground. 


CHAP.  V. 


WALKS  IK  TEE  LAKES  OF  21  ACE  AC  III. 


117 


an  almost  perfect  stillness  reigned  — the  air  was  scarcely  dis- 
turbed by  the  noiseless  flight  of  the  gigantic  moths,  and  the 
gentle  twittering  of  the  little  birds  making  snug  for  their  long 
night. 

Our  rooms  became  a museum,  and  sometimes  almost  a mena- 
gerie. Aided  by  a troop  of  willing  helpers,  never  a day  passed 
without  acquiring  things  that  had  not  been  seen  before  ; 1 for 

“ The  Almighty  Maker  lias  throughout 
Discriminated  each  from  each,  by  strokes 
And  touches  of  his  hand,  with  so  much  art 
Diversified,  that  two  were  never  found 
Twins  at  all  points.” 

In  these  pursuits  I was  much  assisted  by  the  tambo-keeper, 
who  interested  himself  in  furthering  our  work.  lie  introduced 
me  to  Cyclopium  cyclopum,  the  only  fish  in  the  interior — a high- 
bred fish,  with  a string  of  names  that  a Duke  might  envy  ; 2 and 
was  the  means  of  procuring  the  first  Amphipod  collected  in 
Ecuador.  “ Senor  Antonio,”  I said  to  him  one  day,  “Mr.  James 
Orton,  M.A.,  Professor  of  Jfatural  History  in  Yassar  College, 
New  York,  observes 3 that  the  only  crustacean  found  in  the 
interior  ‘ is  a small  cray-fish  abounding  in  the  filthy,  stagnant 
waters  about  Quito.’  Now  couldn’t  you  raise  a crab  or  a shrimp, 
or  something  of  that  kind,  for  it  is  very  sad  to  think  that  there 
are  no  crustaceans  in  Ecuador.”  The  good  man  did  not  know 
whether  I was  speaking  in  jest  or  in  earnest,  so  I set  to  work 
with  my  pencil  to  enlighten  him,  and  invented  forms  which  it 

1 One  afternoon  we  made  an  excursion  to  a panecillo  on  Corazon,  and  beat  the 
bushes  into  an  old  umbrella.  So  far  as  they  are  determined,  everything  obtained 
was  new.  The  following  species  are  included  in  the  Supplementary  Appendix. 
Coleoptera  : — Cercometes  Andicola , Olliff  (p.  58)  ; Pandeletiua  aryentatus,  Olliff 
(p.  62)  ; Apldhona  Ecuadoriensis , Jacoby  (p.  85);  and  Dibolia  viridis,  Jacoby 
(p.  86).  Rhynchota : — Maryus  tibialis , Harmostes  Corazonus,  H.  montivayus , 
Dionyza  varieyata , and  Lyyus  excelsus  (pp.  113-4).  Most  of  these  species  were 
obtained  only  at  this  locality. 

2 See  Supp.  App.,  pp.  137-9. 


3 In  The  American  Naturalist , 1872,  p.  650. 


118 


TRA  YELS  AMONGST  THE  GEE  A T ANDES.  chap.  v. 


would  be  difficult  to  assign  to  any  existing  genera.  Antonio 
Racines  still  looked  perplexed,  as  well  he  might  ; hut  at  last  his 
face  brightened,  and  lie  held  up  a forefinger,  and  beckoned.  “Come 
with  me.”  lie  led  me  to  a little  ditch  about  half  a mile  outside 
the  village,  with  stagnant  water,  and  amongst  the  weeds  I got 
my  first  crustacean,  which  has  been  identified  by  the  Rev.  T.  R.  R. 
Stebbing  as  Hyalella  inermis,  S.  I.  Smith.1 

Thus  the  time  passed  quickly  and  pleasantly.  Still,  it  must 
not  be  supposed  that  our  lives  were  always  as  sweet  as  rose- 
water, for  trouble  sometimes  arose  through  the  want  of  that  con- 
venient. universal  language  which  it  is  expected  will  prevail  when 
the  lion  lies  down  with  the  lamb.  Ecuadorians  have  their  habits 
and  customs,  many  of  which  we  did  not  understand  — nor  did 
they  understand  ours.  At  Machachi  it  was  customary  for  the 
natives  to  keep  mongrel  curs  as  guardians  of  their  property ; 
and  these  brutes,  though  somewhat  respectful  to  cavaliers,  looked 
upon  a pedestrian  as,  presumably,  a person  of  bad  character, 
and  did  not  understand  that  a man  may  wish  to  pluck  a flower 
without  desiring  to  steal  a poncho. 

The  first  time  I took  a solitary  walk  in  the  lanes  of  Machachi 
it  was  dark  before  I rejoined  the  main  road  ; and  upon  entering 
the  suburb  that  stretches  a mile  to  the  south  of  the  tambo 
several  of  these  curs  rushed  out  and  made  for  me.  Others 
joined  them,  until  at  last  there  were  about  a dozen,  from  the 
size  of  a fox-hound  downwards,  snarling  and  snapping  and  making 
dashes  at  my  shins  and  calves  in  a most  uncivilized  manner, 
and  they  got  to  the  length  of  fastening  on  my  clothes  like  hungry 
wolves.  Upon  remonstrating  the  next  day  with  some  of  their 
owners  at  this  rude  treatment  I was  assured  that  it  was  quite 
a mistake  to  call  the  dogs  savage  — they  were  very  good  dogs, 
indeed  (and  this  was  said  by  way  of  commendation),  their  virtues 
were  so  well  known  that  when  any  person  in  the  neighbourhood 
was  in  want  of  a dog  he  would  come  to  Machachi  to  steal  one. 

1 A figure  is  given  in  Chapter  XIX.  See  also  Supp.  App.,  pp.  125-7. 


CHAP.  V. 


THE  DOGS  OF  MACH  AC  HI. 


119 


For  tlie  future  I went  about  armed  with  a bludgeon,  as  these 
guardians  seemed  quite  capable  of  eating  one  up.  If  this  had 
occurred,  and  their  masters  had  been  brought  before  a Jefo- 
politico,  the  defence  would  have  been  substantially  the  same  as 
that  which  was  made  by  a gentleman,  living  in  a Midland  county, 
whose  two  Pyrenean  mastiffs,  on  meeting  a curate  riding  on  horse- 
back, hunted  him  and  pulled  him  down.  Their  owner  assured 
the  Bench  that  they  were  the  gentlest  creatures  alive,  but  they 
were  unaccustomed  to  see  curates  riding  on  horseback,  and 
thought  it  was  improper.  The  Machachi  men  would  have  said, 
“ It  is  certainly  to  be  deplored  that  there  is  nothing  left  of  the 
Doctor  except  the  buckles  of  his  braces,  but  this  is  not  the  fault 
of  the  dogs,  who  are  the  best  dogs  in  the  World.  The  fact  is, 
the  Sefior  would  go  on  foot,  he  would  not  ride  on  horseback, 
and  the  dogs  did  not  understand  it  ” ; and  there  is  no  doubt  that 
the  defence  would  have  been  considered  a good  one. 


INDIAN  REED-PIPES. 


SNOW-CORNICES. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

OX  COTOPAXI  AND  ILLIXIZA. 

When  I was  detained,  a very  unwilling  guest,  in  the  inn  at 
Chuquipoquio,  kept  by  the  possible  Marquis,  a project  entered 
my  head  from  the  execution  of  which  I promised  myself  some 
compensation  for  being  obliged  to  quit  Chimborazo  prematurely. 
My  vexation  had  been  keen  at  being  compelled  to  retreat  from 
that  mountain  after  so  much  labour  had  been  expended  in 
establishing  our  lofty  camps ; and  although  this  was  lessened 
when  I learned  the  real  cause  of  the  defection  of  my  assistants, 
and  anger  gave  place  to  pity  for  the  unfortunate  sufferer,  it 
did  not  alter  the  fact  that  we  left  before  our  work  was  finished, 
and  that  it  was  interrupted  at  an  interesting  point. 

We  had  learned  on  Chimborazo  that  mountain-sickness  was 
a reality.  Although  the  more  acute  symptoms  had  disappeared, 
whilst  remaining  at  low  pressures,  it  was  not  certain  that  they 
would  not  reappear  ; still  less  that  they  would  not  recur  if  we 
remained  continuously  at  a yet  lower  pressure  than  we  had 


CHAP.  VI. 


THE  PROJECT. 


121 


experienced  at  the  third  camp,  namely,  about  16  inches.  To 
settle  this  matter,  so  far  as  it  could  be  done  in  Ecuador,  1 had 
intended  to  ascend  Chimborazo  again,  perhaps  several  times,  and 
had  even  projected  a residence  on  the  snow  plateau  at  its 
summit.  This  now  could  not  be  done.  The  stores  and  baggage 
which  had  cost  so  much  time  and  trouble  to  take  up  had  all 
been  brought  down  again,  the  camps  were  broken  up,  and  the 
information  which  was  desired  could  only  be  obtained  by  begin- 
ning afresh  in  some  other  quarter. 

All  the  other  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator  were  believed  to 
be  lower  than  Chimborazo,  and  consequently  we  were  not  likely 
to  add  materially  to  what  we  had  already  learned  concerning 
the  effects  of  diminished  atmospheric  pressure  by  simple  ascents 
and  descents  of  them.  Moreover,  two  of  the  loftiest  — Antisana 
and  Cayambe  — were  as  yet  unclimbed,  and,  even  should  we 
get  up  them,  it  was  probable  that  we  should  be  unable  to 
remain  on  their  summits.  So  my  thoughts  naturally  turned 
to  the  great  volcano  Cotopaxi.  It  was  reported  that  there  was 
a large  slojie  of  ash  at  the  apex  of  its  terminal  cone,  and  I 
proposed  to  encamji  upon  it,  close  to  the  top  of  the  mountain. 
If  this  could  be  done,  and  if  we  should  find  that  we  could 
remain  at  this  height  (19,500  feet)  for  a length  of  time  without 
suffering  inconvenience  from  the  low  reigning  pressure,  it  would 
substantially  advance  our  information,  and  would  give  good 
grounds  for  hope  that  one  might  carry  exploration  elsewhere 
as  high  as  24,000  or  25,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ; 
though  it  would  still  leave  in  uncertainty  the  possibility  of 
attaining  the  very  highest  summits  in  the  world.  It  is  idle  to 
suppose  that  men  will  ever  reach  the  loftiest  points  on  the 
globe,  unless  they  are  able  to  camp  out  at  considerably  greater 
elevations  than  twenty  thousand  feet. 

The  chance  of  having  a nocturnal  view  of  the  interior  of 
the  crater,  though  a secondary,  was  a powerful  attraction. 

Those  who  had  hitherto  ascended  Cotopaxi  had  remained  a very 

R 


122 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vi. 


short  time  on  the  top,  and  had  only  obtained  fragmentary 
views  of  the  crater,  and  had  given  rather  divergent  accounts  of 
it.  Opportunities  do  not  often  occur  of  looking  by  night  into 
the  bowels  of  a first-rate,  active  volcano,  and  the  idea  of  camp- 
ing upon  the  apex  of  the  cone  grew  upon  me,  the  more  I 
thought  about  it.  By  doing  so,  1 proposed  to  kill  two  birds 
with  one  stone.  The  project  could  not  be  executed  without  the 
active  co-operation  of  both  the  Carrels,  and  it  was  useless  to 
mention  it  so  long  as  the  frost-bitten  feet  of  Louis  remained 
unhealed. 

I therefore  kept  the  scheme  to  myself  until  the  times 
appeared  favourable  ; and  when  Louis  began  to  mend,  and 
there  was  a prospect  of  his  being  able  to  get  to  work  again, 
I broached  the  matter  diplomatically  and  circuitously  ; and, 
concealing  my  principal  motive,  harped  upon  the  secondary 
ones  ; spoke  of  the  famous  eruptions  of  Cotopaxi,  referred  to 
the  discrepancies  in  the  determinations  of  its  height,  to  the 
uncertainty  of  the  nature  of  its  crater,  the  delights  of  being 
warm  in  camp,  and  the  opportunity  of  having  a peep  into  the 
subterranean  world,  and  contrasted  the  dicta  of  various  eminent 
authorities  to  shew  how  little  volcanic  knowledge  had  advanced, 
and  spoke  long  without  effect.  At  last,  my  Chief  of  the  Staff 
said  one  day,  in  his  own  peculiar  idiom,  “ You  have  raised 
within  me  a great  desire  to  look  into  this  animal,”  and  I knew 
then  that  the  matter  was  as  good  as  settled,  for  the  younger 
man  seldom  opposed  the  wishes  of  his  imperious  cousin. 

When  the  gashes  in  the  frost-bitten  feet  of  Louis  began  to 
heal,  and  he  could  hobble  about,  preparations  for  our  adventure 
were  set  agoing.  To  lessen  risks,  I divided  the  instruments ; 
we  studied  economical  methods  of  cooking  ; added  to  our  wraps, 
and  rehearsed  generally ; and  then  we  recrossed  the  Tiupullo 
ridge  1 to  the  farm  of  Rosario,  to  get  a profile  view  of  the  mount- 

1 Stopped  for  a time  at  the  tambo  of  S.  Ana,  and  inquired  of  the  man  who 
kept  it  if  he  had  ever  known  stones  thrown  out  by  Cotopaxi  as  far  as  his  place, 


CHAP.  VI. 


COTOPAXI. 


123 


ain.  At  daybreak  on  the  morning  following  our  arrival  (Feb.  8), 
the  imposing  mass  of  Cotopaxi  became  visible.  The  atmosphere 
of  smoke  and  haze  which  is  always  hanging  about  it  subdued 
its  details  without  concealing  its  general  contour,  and  produced 
an  effect  of  stupendous  size  and  enormous  height.  A large 
quantity  of  steam  issuing  from  the  crater  was  first  of  all  borne 
towards  us,  then,  as  shewn  in  the  engraving,  was  drifted  to  the 
south-west,  and  finally  was  carried  northwards. 

The  farm  of  Rosario  is  nearly  due  west  of  Cotopaxi,  distant 
about  eighteen  and  a half  miles,  and  its  position  is  sufficiently 
elevated  (10,356  feet)  to  enable  one  to  judge  the  proportions  of 
the  mountain.  I found  that  the  general  angles  of  the  northern 
and  southern  slopes  of  the  cone  were  rather  less  than  30°,  and 
a w'eek  later,  when  due  north  of  it,  I observed  that  the  eastern 
and  western  sides,  though  somewhat  steeper,  scarcely  exceeded 
32°. 1 These  moderate  angles  confirmed  the  impression  that  this 
ascent  could  be  made  with  facility,  and  that  such  troubles  as 
might  arise  would  be  more  due  to  too  much  wind,  or  to  want 
of  wind,  and  to  the  labour  incident  upon  carrying  a quantity 
of  material  to  a great  elevation,  than  to  the  nature  of  the 
ground  which  we  should  traverse. 

Cotopaxi  is  an  ideal  volcano.  It  comports  itself,  volcanically 
speaking,  in  a regular  and  well-behaved  manner.  It  is  not  one 
of  the  provoking  sort  — exploding  in  paroxysms  and  going  to 
sleep  directly  afterwards.  It  is  in  a state  of  perpetual  activity, 
and  has  been  so  ever  since  it  has  had  a place  in  history. 
There  are  loftier  mountains  which  have  been  volcanoes,  and 
there  are  active  volcanoes  with  larger  craters,  yielding  greater 
quantities  of  lava,  but  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi,  so  far  as  is 

and  he  said  he  had.  Asked  as  to  the  size  of  the  largest,  he  picked  up  one 
about  three  inches  in  diameter. 

1 They  have  been  stated  by  others  to  be  40°  and  upwards.  In  the  view  of 
Cotopaxi  given  in  Humboldt’s  Vues  dans  les  Cordilleres,  its  northern  and  southern 
slopes  are  represented  rising  at  an  angle  of  50°.  This  very  misleading  view  has 
been  copied  into  many  other  works. 


124 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vi. 


known,  has  the  greatest  absolute  elevation  above  the  level  of 
the  sea  of  all  volcanoes  that  are  in  working  order. 

It  is  situated  about  forty-three  geographical  miles  south  of 
the  Equator  and  thirty  geographical  miles  south-east  of  Quito. 
In  the  accompanying  view  from  the  farm  of  Rosario  the  summit 
of  the  mountain  has  an  elevation  of  9300  feet  above  the  spec- 
tator, and  between  the  edge  of  the  plain  in  the  middle  distance 
and  the  foot  of  the  cone  there  is  a depression,  occupied  by  the 
bed  of  the  River  Cutuchi.  This  river  takes  its  rise  at  the 
western  foot  of  Cotopaxi.  The  head  waters  of  the  Cutuchi  are 
divided  from  the  streams  flowing  to  the  north  by  a plain  called 
Limpiopongo,  the  highest  point  of  which  is  behind,  and  a little 
to  the  left,  of  the  domed  hill  (C'allo)  shewn  in  the  engraving. 
All  the  streams  that  descend  from  the  northern  side  of  Coto- 
paxi go  to  form  the  River  Rita,  which,  after  getting  clear  of  the 
mountain  Sincholagua,  enters  the  basin  of  Chillo,  and  ultimately 
falls  into  the  River  Esmeraldas,  and  so  into  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
The  streams  which  rise  on  the  eastern  side  of  Cotopaxi  flow 
through  unexplored  country,  but  there  is  good  reason  for  suppos- 
ing that  they  fall  into  the  River  Napo.  It  is  of  little  conse- 
quence what  may  happen  in  that  direction.  The  Cutuchi  and 
Pita,  however,  and  the  rivers  into  which  they  fall,  traverse  the 
heart  of  Ecuador,  and  all  })laces  that  they  pass  are  more  or  less 
unsafe,  according  to  their  levels,  and  their  positions  in  relation 
to  the  rivers.  Some  of  the  more  proximate  places  to  Cotopaxi 
are  in  no  hazard  from  its  eruptions,  whilst  others,  at  much 
greater  distances,  are  in  constant  danger  from  them.  Thus, 
while  the  village  of  Machachi  is  secure,  the  town  of  Latacunga 
is  in  imminent  peril.  The  nearest  house  to  the  crater  — the 
tambo  of  S.  Aila  — is  safe,  though  many  buildings  in  the  basin 
of  Chillo1  were  erased  by  the  floods  which  poured  down  at  the 
last  great  eruption.  This  took  place  on  June  2G,  1877  ; and,  as 

‘The  basiu  of  Chillo  lies  to  the  north  of  the  mountain  Sincholagua.  The 
village  is  not  marked  on  my  map,  as  I was  unable  to  fix  its  position. 


COTOPAXI  (19,613  FEET),  FROM  THE  HACIENDA  OF  S.  ROSARIO  (10,356  FEET). 


CHAP.  VI. 


ERUPTIONS  OF  COTOPAXI  IN  1877. 


125 


it  is  the  best  recorded  one  that  has  occurred,  I propose  to  refer 
to  it  before  proceeding  with  my  narrative. 

In  the  earlier  part  of  1877  a rather  unusual  degree  of 
activity  was  manifested  ' by  Cotopaxi,  and  columns  of  smoke 
(composed  of  fine  dust,  which  is  commonly  termed  volcanic  ash) 
rose  sometimes  a thousand  feet  above  the  cone,  and  at  night  the 
steam  and  smoke  that  issued  was  brilliantly  illuminated  by 
flames  or  incandescent  matter  within  the  crater.  The  dust  was 
carried  in  this  or  that  direction  according  to  the  prevailing 
winds,  and  much  fell  at  Machachi  and  its  neighbourhood.1  Xo 
alarm  seems  to  have  been  caused  until  June  25,  when,  soon 
after  mid-day,  an  immense  black  column  was  projected  about 
twice  the  height  of  the  cone  (say,  18,000  feet)  in  the  air,  and 
was  accompanied  by  tremendous  subterranean  bellowing.  This 
eruption  was  clearly  seen  from  Quito  and  Latacunga,  as  the 
wind  blew  the  ash  towards  the  Pacific,  and  left  the  view  of  the 
mountain  from  north  and  south  unobscured.2  The  summit 
glowed  at  night,  but  next  morning  its  appearance  was  normal 
until  0.30  a.m.,  when  another  enormous  column  rose  from  the 
crater.  This  time  the  ejected  matter  first  drifted  due  north, 
spreading  out  to  the  north-west  and  north-east,  and  subse- 
quently was  diffused  by  other  winds  all  over  the  country.  In 
Quito  it  began  to  be  dusk  about  8 a.m.,  and  the  darkness 
increased  in  intensity  until  mid-day,  when  it  was  like  night. 
One  man  informed  me  that  he  wished  to  return  home,  but 
could  not  perceive  his  own  door3  when  immediately  opposite  to 

1 Shewing  a prevalence  of  south-east  winds. 

2 The  first  intelligence  of  this  eruption  reached  Europe  through  the  ejected 
matter  falling  upon  steamers  passing  between  Panama  and  Guayaquil,  at  a dis- 
tance of  nearly  two  hundred  miles  from  the  mountain. 

3 The  darkness  was  caused  by  the  prodigious  quantity  of  dust  that  was  float- 
ing in  the  atmosphere.  I found  at  Quito  a person  who  had  had  the  sagacity  to 
spread  out  a sheet  of  paper  to  receive  the  particles  as  they  settled,  and  I secured 
this  collection.  Some  are  as  large  as  ’007  to  "008  of  an  inch  in  diameter, 
though  many  are  much  smaller.  This  dust  has  been  described  by  Prof.  Bonuey 
in  the  Proceedings  of  the  Royal  Society,  June,  1884. 


TRAVELS  AMOXGST  THE  GREAT  AXDES.  chap.  vi. 


126 

it,  and  another  said  he  could  not  see  his  hand  when  it  was 
held  close  to  his  face. 

At  daybreak,  on  the  26th,  the  mountain  could  be  clearly 
seen  from  places  to  the  south  of  it,  as  the  ash  was  blown  north- 
wards, and  the  eruption  does  not  appear  to  have  excited  any 
particular  alarm,  or  even  attention.1  Some  inhabitants  of  Mulalo, 
however,  were  looking  at  the  summit  at  10  a.m.,  and  all  at  once 
saw  molten  lava  pouring  through  the  gaps  and  notches  in  the 
lip  of  the  crater,  bubbling  and  smoking,  so  they  described  it, 
like  the  froth  of  a pot  that  suddenly  boils  over.  The  scene 

which  then  ensued  upon  the  mountain  was  shut  out  from  mortal 
eyes,  for  in  a few  minutes  the  whole  of  it  was  enveloped  in 
smoke  and  steam,  and  became  invisible  ; but  out  of  the  darkness 
a moaning  noise  arose,  which  grew  into  a roar,  and  a deluge  of 
water,  blocks  of  ice,  mud  and  rock  rushed  down,  sweeping  away 
everything  that  lay  in  its  course,  and  leaving  a desert  in  its 
rear.  It  is  estimated  that  it  travelled  as  far  as  Latacunga  at 
the  rate  of  fifty  miles  an  hour — and  this  is  not  impossible.2 

The  scene  upon  the  cone  in  the  moments  following  the  out- 
pouring of  the  lava  through  the  jagged  rim  3 of  the  crater  must 
have  surpassed  anything  that  has  been  witnessed  by  man. 
Molten  rock  filled  the  crater  to  overflowing.  Its  rise  was  6udden. 
and  its  fall,  perhaps,  was  equally  abrupt.  One  may  well  pause 
to  wonder  at  the  power  which  could  raise  the  quantity  sufficient 

1 It  must  be  remembered  that  the  people  living  in  its  vicinity  are  accustomed 
to  see  it  smoking  and  blowing  off  steam.  The  ejection  of  a column  of  ash  to 
several  times  the  ordinary  height  would  not  be  enough  to  attract  special  attention. 

2 In  three  hours  after  passing  Mulalo  it  destroyed  a bridge  at  the  foot  of 
Tunguragua.  The  distance  between  these  places  is  forty-five  miles,  or  probably 
sixty  miles  following  the  windings  of  the  rivers.  This  would  give  a mean  rate 
of  about  twenty  miles  per  hour.  The  flood  going  northwards  reached  Esmeraldas 
at  4 a.m.  on  the  27th.  In  a direct  line  that  town  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  from  the  crater,  but  it  is  more  than  double  the  distance  by  the  circuitous 
route  which  was  taken.  This  gives  a mean  rate  of  about  seventeen  miles  per  hour. 

3 This  passage  will  be  better  understood  by  reference  to  the  two  views  of 
exterior  and  interior  portions  of  the  crater  that  accompany  Chapter  VII. 


CHAP.  VI. 


EFFECTS  OF  THE  ERUPTIONS. 


127 


to  fill  this  vast  arena,  nineteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  even  for  a moment.1  The  weight  must  be  reckoned  by 
hundreds  of  millions  of  tons — its  heat  at  thousands  of  degrees 
Fahrenheit,  and  when  it  emerged  through  the  depressions  of  the 
rim,  and  fell  in  streams  or  cascades  upon  the  surrounding  slopes 
of  snow,  ice,  and  glacier,  much  of  it  must  instantly  have  been 
blown  into  the  air  by  sudden  evolution  of  steam,  and  falling 
again  upon  the  cone  bounded  downwards  in  furious  leaps,  plough- 
ing up  the  mountain  like  cannon-shot.  Portions  of  the  glaciers, 
uncemented  from  their  attachments  bv  the  enormous  augmenta- 
tion of  heat,  slipped  away  bodily,  and,  partly  rolling,  partly 
borne  by  the  growing  floods,  arrived  at  the  bottom  a mass  of 
shattered  blocks.2 

The  flood  which  ultimately  proceeded  towards  the  south  at 
first  rushed  awav  from  Cotopaxi  across  the  bed  of  the  River 
Cutuchi  up  to  the  bend  that  the  new  road  makes  near  Callo  ; and 
then,  deflected  by  the  rising  ground,  it  turned  towards  Latacunga, 
rooted  up  the  road,  and  swept  away  arrieros  with  their  teams 
and  everything  upon  it,  erased  houses,  farms  and  factories,  and 
destroyed  every  bridge  in  its  course.  'When  I passed  this  way, 
I found  the  country  a wilderness.3 

Many  eruptions  have  occurred  of  this  description,  and  upon 

1 The  observation  of  the  natives  of  Mulalo  that,  it  bubbled  over  suddenly  in 
a number  of  places  at  once,  and  the  immediate  irruption  of  the  floods  in  all 
directions  are  strong  evidence.  The  opinion  that  the  lava  retreated  as  rapidly  as 
it  rose  is  entertained  because  the  flood  ceased  in  an  hour  or  less,  and  a large 
quantity  of  ice  near  the  summit  remained  unmelted. 

3 According  to  Dr.  T.  Wolf  blocks  of  ice  were  carried  eight  to  ten  leagues  from 
the  mountain,  and  some  of  them  remained  for  months  after  the  eruption  upon  the 
plain  of  Latacunga.  and  left,  as  the}-  melted,  hillocks  of  rubbish  three  or  four  feet 
high,  and  several  yards  in  diameter. 

3 The  flood  which  went  north,  though  equally  formidable,  did  less  damage  to 
property.  For  a number  of  miles  it  traversed  uninhabited  country.  The  principal 
loss  on  this  side  was  caused  by  the  obliteration  of  the  cotton  factories  at  Chillo 
belonging  to  the  Aguirre  family.  I was  told  by  one  of  their  workmen  that  some 
of  the  machinery  was  transported  thirty  miles,  down  into  the  ravine  of  Guallabamba. 
Messrs.  Aguirre  have  now  put  up  other  mills  on  higher  ground. 


128 


TRA  YELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  vi. 


some  occasions  the  mountain  has  belched  forth  flame  as  well  as 
ashes.  Several  persons  whom  I examined  on  this  point  seemed 
to  be  able  to  discriminate  between  the  appearance  of  tire-lit  clouds 


COTOPAXI  IN  ERUPTION  IN  I743' 

and  of  actual  flame,  and  positively  affirmed  that  they  had  seen 
flames  rise  above  the  lip  of  the  crater,  though  not  to  a great 
height.  La  Condamine,  in  his  Journal  du  Voyage,  relates  that 
in  1743-4  flames  rose  at  least  two  thousand  feet  above  the  toj) 
of  the  mountain,  and  his  associates  Juan  and  Ulloa,  in  their 


CHAP.  VI. 


FIRST  ASCENT  OF  COTOPAXI. 


129 


Voyage  historique,  give  the  quaint  picture  which  I reproduce 
herewith. 

There  need  be  little  wonder  that  there  are  so  few  exact  ac- 
counts of  the  great  eruptions  of  Cotopaxi.  No  one  lives  in  close 
contiguity  to  the  vent  which  is  the  natural  channel  of  escape 
for  the  imprisoned  and  compressed  gases  that  work  the  mischief, 
and  thus  the  earlier  admonitions  of  approaching  eruptions  often 
pass  unnoticed  ; and  when  the  mightier  ones  commence,  every 
person  within  sight  or  hearing,  knowing  too  well  either  from  ex- 
perience or  from  tradition  the  results  which  are  likely  to  ensue, 
concerns  himself  more  in  safeguarding  life  and  property  than  in 
philosophical  considerations  of  the  forces  of  nature. 

Ecuadorians  have  left  the  investigation  of  their  great  volcano 
to  strangers.  A century  and  a half  ago,  La  Condamine  proposed 
to  attempt  its  ascent,  but  had  to  abandon  his  project  because  no 
one  would  accompany  him.  Humboldt,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
century,  after  entertaining  the  same  idea,  finally  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  it  was  impossible  to  reach  the  brink  of  the  crater. 
So  far  as  I am  aware,  the  first  person  to  reach  the  summit  was 
Dr.  W.  Reiss,  of  Berlin,  on  Nov.  27,  1872. 1 Starting  from  the 
village  of  Mulalo,  with  ten  natives,  he  appears  first  to  have  trav- 
elled about  north-east,  and  subsequently  east-north-east.  The 
same  route  was  taken  by  Dr.  A.  Stubel,  of  Dresden,  in  March, 
1873  ; 2 and,  in  September,  1877,  the  summit  was  reached  by  Dr. 
T.  Wolf,  a Jesuit  long  resident  in  Ecuador,  who  started  from  the 
same  direction  as  the  others,3  but  adopted  a more  northerly  line 
of  ascent,  in  consequence  of  finding  that  the  route  they  had  taken 
on  the  actual  cone  had  been  rendered  impassable  by  the  eruption 

1 See  Nature,  April  10,  1873.  I was  informed  in  Ecuador  that  an  ascent  had 
been  made  by  a native  of  Latacunga,  before  Dr.  Reiss,  but  1 was  unable  to  obtain 
any  evidence  that  such  had  been  the  case. 

3 An  account  in  Spanish  was  published  at  Quito  by  Dr.  Stubel  in  the  form  of 
a letter  to  the  President  of  the  Republic  of  Ecuador  (see  note,  p.  96),  and  also 
appeared  in  French  in  the  Bulletin  de  la  Societe  de  Oeographie,  Paris,  1874. 

3 An  account  was  published  by  him  in  Spanish,  at  Guayaquil. 

S 


130 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vi. 


of  June  27.  Lastly,  in  January,  1878,  the  summit  was  gained 
by  Freiherr  Max  von  Thielmann,  who,  starting  from  Machachi, 
passed  through  the  hamlet  of  Pedregal  to  the  mountain  by  the 
route  shewn  in  dotted  line  upon  my  map,  and  completed  the 
ascent  by  the  same  way  as  Dr.  Wolf.1 

The  accounts  of  these  gentlemen  agree  in  general  very  well  ; 
though  none  of  them  saw  to  the  bottom  of  the  crater,  and  they 
differed  amongst  each  other  as  to  the  height  of  the  mountain  and 
several  matters  of  detail.  By  remaining  a greater  length  of  time 
in  the  field  I hoped  to  clear  up,  or  at  least  to  bring  more  into 
harmony,  various  discrepancies  ; and  in  going  to  the  mountain  I 
proposed  to  follow  the  line  taken  by  Von  Thielmann,  for,  from 
a description  which  he  was  good  enough  to  give  me  personally,  it 
appeared  to  be  more  desirable  than  the  way  by  Mulalo. 

I brought  a letter  of  introduction  to  the  proprietor  of  the  farm, 
and  was  received  very  courteously.2  His  house  was  the  nearest 
one  to  Illiniza,  and  we  came  to  it  hoping  to  combine  an  ascent 
of  that  mountain  with  our  inspection  of  Cotopaxi.  No  informa- 
tion in  regard  to  Illiniza  is  in  print,  and  this  is  not  a matter  for 
surprise,  as  it  is  almost  perpetually  shrouded  in  mist.  Persons 
living  in  its  neighbourhood  say  that  it  is  seldom  or  never  perfectly 
clear.  At  one  or  another  time  we  were  seventy-eight  days  in  its 
vicinity,  yet  we  did  not  see  the  whole  of  the  mountain  on  any 
single  occasion.3  Only  partial  views  were  obtained,  lasting  a few 

1 See  the  Alpine  Journal,  Aug.,  1878,  pp.  45-47. 

s There  was  the  same  uncleanliness  about  this  hacienda  that  was  remarked  in 
most  other  places.  My  apartment  had  the  appearance  of  not  having  been  cleaned 
or  even  swept  since  the  building  was  erected.  The  whole  ceiling  was  covered  with 
a dense  black  mass  of  house-flies  clustered  over  one  another  to  the  depth  of  perhaps 
half  an  inch.  I could  not  have  imagined  that  such  a spectacle  was  possible.  There 
were  also  tens  of  thousands  on  the  upper  part  of  the  walls. 

Feeling  something  hard  under  the  pillow  I looked  underneath,  and  found  a 
prayer-book,  a revolver,  aud  a guitar.  This  was  apparently  the  bedroom  of  the 
head  of  the  establishment. 

3 In  May  and  June,  Louis  Carrel  stopped  for  five  weeks  at  Machachi,  and  in  this 
time  only  saw  Illiniza  twice. 


CHAP.  VI. 


ILLINIZA . 


131 


minutes,  and  usually  it  was  completely  invisible.  It  happened 
that  shortly  before  sunset  on  Feb.  7 a strong  north-west  wind 
set  in  and  cleared  the  summit  of  clouds,  and  from  this  casual 
glance  an  ascent  appeared  to  he  a certainty. 

This  mountain  is  probably  seventh  in  rank  of  the  Great  Andes 
of  the  Equator.  It  is  slightly  inferior  in  elevation  to  Sangai  and 
is  loftier  than  Carihuairazo.  It  has  two  peaks,  or  rather  it  is 
composed  of  two  mountains  that  are  grouped  together,  the  more 
northern  of  which  is  the  lower,  and  is  called  Little  Illiniza.1  The 
summits  of  both  are  sharp,  and  during  the  time  of  our  stay  in 
Ecuador  they  were  completely  covered  by  snow.  The  proprietor 
of  the  hacienda  could  give  us  no  information  as  to  the  nature  of 
the  country  to  their  west,  and  it  is  probable  that  for  some  dis- 
tance, at  least,  it  has  never  been  seen  by  human  eye.  He  was, 
however,  well  acquainted  with  the  lower  slopes  of  the  mountain 
on  the  eastern  side,  and  said  that  his  people  would  be  able  to 
conduct  us  to  a considerable  height. 

Upon  leaving  the  hacienda  on  Feb.  8,  under  local  guidance, 
our  route  was  nearly  north  for  four  miles,  partly  over  cultivated 
ground,  rising  gently  most  of  the  way ; and  it  then  turned 
sharply  to  the  west,  up  a long  spur  thrown  out  from  the  main 
southern  ridge  of  the  mountain.  The  course  up  the  spur  was 
about  N.W.  by  W.  until  we  bad  reached  the  height  of  14,700 
feet,  and  then  our  local  guides  came  to  the  end  of  their  know- 
ledge and  our  animals  struck  work.  There  were  nine  of  them, 

. and  eight  persons  to  drive,  yet  there  was  more  difficulty  in 
making  them  advance  than  on  Chimborazo  when  moving  from 
the  first  to  the  second  camp.2  As  usual,  none  of  their  loads 

1 They  have  been  measured  by  Messrs.  Reiss  and  Stiibel,  who  assign  the  heights 
17,405  and  16,936  feet  to  them  respectively.  I think  there  is  a greater  difference 
in  their  elevation,  and  (for  the  reason  stated  in  Chapter  XVI.)  that  Little  Illiniza 
is  not  so  high  as  16,936  feet. 

2 This  probably  arose  from  other  causes  besides  diminution  in  pressure.  The 
ground  was  steeper,  and  they  had  traversed  a greater  distance  than  on  the  other 


occasion. 


132 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vi. 


exceeded  160  lbs.  We  pushed  on  for  a few  hundred  feet 
higher,  up  steep  slopes  of  volcanic  sand,  having  a very  vague 
idea  of  the  situation  of  the  summit,  as  we  had  been  in  clouds 
nearly  all  the  day ; and,  upon  arriving  at  some  sufficiently  flat 
ground,  encamped  at  15,207  feet,  with  sleet  falling  thickly.  All 
the  people  (except  the  Carrels),  along  with  the  animals,  were 
then  sent  back  to  the  farm. 

In  course  of  time  it  was  found  that  we  had  got  close  to  the 
southern  edge  of  a glacier  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  peak,  and 
that  the  upper  2200  feet  or  thereabouts  of  the  mountain  was 
composed  of  a large  wall  (which  is  possibly  nothing  more  than 
a dyke),  of  no  great  thickness  from  east  to  west ; having  two 
principal  ridges, — one  descending  from  the  summit  towards  the 
south-south-west,  and  the  other  north-north-east.  The  face 
fronting  the  east  was  almost  entirely  covered  bv  glacier  right 
up  to  the  summit,  and  there  was  also  a glacier,  or  more  than 
one,  on  the  western  side. 

Jean- Antoine  and  I started  soon  after  daybreak  on  Feb.  9,1 
and  made  good  progress  over  the  glacier  so  long  as  it  was  at  a 
moderate  inclination ; but  in  the  course  of  an  hour  we  found 
ourselves  driven  over  to  the  western  side  of  the  mountain,  and 
shortly  afterwards  were  completely  stopped  in  that  direction  by 
immense  seracs.  We  then  doubled  back  to  the  main  ridge,  and 
reached  the  crest  of  it,  at  a somewhat  greater  height  than  16,000 
feet,  up  some  very  steep  gullies  filled  with  snow.  The  huge 
seracs  looming  through  the  mist  above  us  on  the  western  side 
shewed  clean  walls  of  ice  which  I estimated  were  200  feet  high, 
lurching  forwards  as  if  ready  to  fall,  separated  by  crevasses  not 
less  than  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  across.  Nothing  could  be 
done  on  that  side.  The  ridge  was  steep  and  broken  ; its  rocks 
were  much  decomposed,  externally  of  a chalkv-white  appearance, 
pervaded  with  veins  and  patches  of  lilacs  and  purples,  and  inter- 

1 Leaving  Louis  in  charge  of  the  camp.  He  came  by  his  own  desire,  though 
still  unable  to  w'alk. 


CHAP.  VI. 


TUFTED  SNOW-CORNICES. 


133 


spersed  with  numerous  snow-beds  overhanging  one  or  the  other 
side  in  cornices.  The  thickness  of  the  mists  hindered  progress, 
and  shortly  before  mid-day  (being  then  about  17,000  feet  above 
the  sea)  we  were  brought  to  a halt.  The  clouds  drifted  away 
for  a few  minutes,  and  we  saw  that  although  we  might  advance 
perhaps  two  hundred  feet  higher  we  should  not  be  able  to  reach 
the  summit.1 

Two  glaciers  have  their  origin  on  the  upper  part  of  the 
southern  ridge  of  Illiniza.  That  which  goes  westwards,  almost 
from  its  commencement,  is  prodigiously  steep,  and  is  broken  up 
into  the  cubical  masses  termed  sercics.  The  other  glacier,  de- 
scending towards  the  east,  though  steep,  is  less  torrential.  The 
two  were  united  on  the  crest  of  our  ridge,  and  over  some  cleft 
in  it  there  was  a sheer,  vertical  wall  of  glacier-ice  perhaps  a 
hundred  feet  high.  We  could  see  no  way  of  turning  it,  and 
there  appeared  no  possibility  of  getting  higher  upon  this  side 
except  by  tunnelling.  But  if  we  had  passed  this  obstacle  we 
should  not  have  reached  the  top  of  the  mountain,  for  its  extreme 
summit  was  garnished  with  a cornice  of  a novel  and  very 
embarrassing  description. 

In  the  illustration  at  the  head  of  this  chapter  two  types  of 
snow-cornices  are  represented.  That  on  the  right  of  the  engrav- 
ing is  common  upon  the  crests  of  ridges  near  the  summits  of  many 
Alpine  peaks,  and  in  other  high  ranges,  including  the  Andes.  The 
one  upon  the  left  I have  seen  only  amongst  the  Great  Andes  of 
the  Equator,  and  for  the  first  time  on  the  summit  of  Illiniza.  We 
observed  them  again  upon  the  lower  peaks  of  Antisana,  Cayambe, 
Cotocachi  and  elsewhere.  The  formation  of  snow-cornices  of  the 
more  usual  type  is  due  to  drift  of  the  snow,  and  the  icicles  under- 
neath them  to  the  subsequent  action  of  the  sun  ; and  the  process 
of  their  manufacture,  upon  a small  scale,  can  be  observed  upon 
the  ridges  of  roofs  during  any  severe  snowstorm.  The  other  type 

1 The  top  was  seen  only  during  these  few  minutes,  anil  then  became  invisible 
until  we  left  the  mountain. 


134 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vi. 


— the  tufted  cornice  — is  probably  due  to  variability  of  winds, 
and  the  fringe  of  pendent  icicles,  all  round,  to  the  influence  of 
a nearly  vertical  sun  at  noon.  With  the  exception  of  Illiniza, 
they  were  not  found  at  the  very  highest  points  of  the  mountains 
which  have  been  mentioned,  and  we  thanked  our  stars  that  it 
was  not  necessary  to  have  dealings  with  them. 

We  ■ descended  eighty  feet  to  read  the  barometer  ; made  our 
way  down  the  eastern  face,  and  became  mist-bewildered  on  the 
glacier  near  the  cam}).  Our  shouts  were  heard  by  Louis,  who 
pluckily  hobbled  out  some  distance  to  guide  us,  and  we  then 
packed  up,  and  awaited  the  return  of  our  followers.  They  arrived 
at  4.30  p.m.,  and  we  quitted  a mountain  upon  which,  I do  not 
attempt  to  disguise,  we  were  fairly  beaten.1 

Our  experiences  upon  Corazon  and  Illiniza  began  to  open  our 
eyes  regarding  weather  at  great  elevations  in  Ecuador.  Hitherto 
we  had  seen  little  of  vertical  suns,  and  regarded  ourselves  as  the 
victims  of  circumstances,  and  looked  daily  for  the  setting  in  of 
a period  of  cloudless  skies,  with  something  like  tropical  warmth. 
On  Illiniza  we  enjoyed  thunderstorms,  snow  and  hailstorms,  sleet, 
drizzle  and  drenching  showers,  and  scarcely  saw  the  sun  at  all.2 

1 Started  from  the  hacienda  on  Feb.  8 at  9.35  a.m.,  and  arrived  at  camp  4 p.m. 
Left  camp  with  Jean-Antoine  at  6.30  a.m.  on  Feb.  9,  and  in  five  minutes  took  to 
the  glacier.  Reached  highest  point  attained  at  11.45,  and  got  back  to  camp  3.45 
p.m.  Left  camp  5 p.m.,  and  arrived  about  8.50  at  the  hacienda.  Temperature 
in  the  shade  was  36°  Faht.  at  5.45  a.m.  at  our  camp,  and  49  5 at  mid-day,  when 
17,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

2 The  conditions  upon  Illiniza  were  unfavourable  for  collecting.  Out  of  the 
snow  sludge  around  our  camp  I obtained  only  three  mosses  (Racomilrium  crispi- 
pilum,  Jaeg.,  Splachnobrymn  Sprueeanum,  C.M.,  and  a Webera),  and  a short  dis- 
tance below  our  highest  point  found  two  others  (Breutetta  subarcuata,  Scliimp.,  and 
I>i<hy motion  acutifolius,  Jaeg.). 

At  16,500  feet,  whilst  descending,  I captured  a small  bug,  which  has  been 
referred  by  Mr.  Distant  to  the  genus  Ernesa  ( Supp . App.,  p.  117).  Though  alive, 
it  was  evidently  a wind-borne  straggler,  but  it  is  noteworthy  on  account  of  this 
being  the  greatest  elevation  at  which  animal  life  was  either  obtained  or  observed. 
Its  habitat  was  perhaps  in  the  woods  on  the  Panecillo  of  Corazon  (see  p.  117). 


CHAP.  VI. 


EQUABILITY  OF  THE  WEATHER. 


135 


At  Machachi  we  met  Sen  or  Lopez,  an  engineer  of  the  Ecuadorian 
railway,  who  said  that  this  weather  was  in  no  way  exceptional, 
and  would  be  found  alike  over  all  the  higher  ground,  in  any 
month.  We  resigned  ourselves  to  the  inevitable,  and  set  to  work 
perfecting  preparations  for  a journey  to  Cotopaxi. 


AN  ACADEMICIAN  OBSERVING  THE  BAROMETER. 
(AFTER  JUAN  AND  ULLOA.) 


A BOMB  FROM  COTOPAXI. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE  ASCENT  OF  COTOPAXI,  AND  A NIGHT  ON  THE  SUMMIT. 

We  started  from  Machachi  for  Cotopaxi  on  February  14.  The 
party  consisted  of  Jean-Antoine  and  Louis,  Mr.  Perring,  six 
natives  of  Machachi  as  porters,  nine  mules  and  three  arrieros,  and 
a couple  of  sheep — a pair  of  ungraceful  and  graceless  animals,  who 
displayed  the  utmost  reluctance  to  go  to  the  slaughter.  They 
squatted  on  their  haunches  and  refused  to  move,  and  when  at 
last,  after  infinite  persuasion,  they  were  induced  to  get  up,  they 
ran  between  our  legs  and  tried  to  upset  us. 

It  was  our  intention  to  travel  direct  to  Cotopaxi,  but  a 
violent  storm  drove  us  for  refuge  into  Pedregal,  a little  hamlet 
composed  of  a farm  and  a cluster  of  cottages,  situated  on  open 
ground,  at  the  northern  foot  of  Rumifiahui.  The  hacienda  was 
surrounded  by  the  customary  high  wall,  with  a huge  portal  at  the 
entrance  to  the  courtyard,  and  had  a ruined  chapel  on  the  farther 
side,  in  which  we  took  up  our  quarters,  by  invitation.  At  dusk 
the  bells  were  tolled  for  prayer,  and  young  and  old,  in  twos  and 
threes,  came  over  the  moorland  to  hold  a service  of  their  own, 
without  the  aid  of  priest. 

In  the  morning  of  February  15  we  pursued  our  way  up  the 
valley  of  the  Rio  Pita,  over  gently  undulating  land,  which  became 


CHAP.  VII. 


THE  APPROACH  TO  COTOPAXI. 


137 


more  and  more  sterile  and  desolate  as  we  approached  the  mount- 
ain, and  presently  entered  on  the  plain  of  Limpiopongo,  the 
divide  of  the  waters  of  the  Pita  and  Cutuchi  — a nearly  level 
expanse,  several  miles  across.  I found  here,  in  great  numbers, 
a rather  large  beetle  belonging  to  the  same  tribe  as  our  cock- 


COTOPAXI  FROM  THE  FIRST  CAMP. 

chafer,  of  a species  which  proves  to  be  new  to  science,  and  appears 
to  Mr.  II.  VV . Bates  so  different  from  known  forms  as  to  warrant 
the  erection  of  a new  genus  (Leucopelcea)  for  its  reception.1  L. 
albescens  apparently  tries  to  stand  on  its  head.  I saw  multitudes 
of  them  in  this  interesting  position  ; many  more  fallen  on  their 
backs  kicking  about,  unable  to  regain  their  feet ; and  many  others 


: For  description  and  figure  see  Supplementary  Appendix , p.  30. 


140 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vii. 


I ( lid  clean  that  meat  with  our  blacking-brush,  and  wipe  out  the 
pots  with  a pocket-handkerchief. 

Our  camp  was  pitched  upon  and  was  surrounded  by  matter 
ejected  from  the  volcano,  to  which  the  terms  dust,  sand,  lapilli, 
and  ash  are  usually  given.  The  finest  particles  are  termed  dusts, 
coarser  ones  are  called  sand  and  lapilli.  The  term  ash  covers 
all  three  expressions,  and  in  this  sense  I have  used  it  elsewhere. 
It  is,  however,  open  to  the  double  objection  that  it  conveys  no 
exact  idea  of  either  the  dimensions  or  quality  of  the  particles, 
and  suggests  a quite  erroneous  idea.  In  using  the  term  ash  (or 
ashes)  we  generally  mean  the  residue  of  something  which  has 
perished  by  fire.  Thus  we  speak  of  the  ash  of  paper,  tobacco, 
or  coal  ; and,  when  this  expression  was  first  applied  to  matter 
ejected  by  volcanoes,  those  who  employed  it  were  no  doubt  under 
the  impression  that  the  particles  which  they  so  designated  were 
actually  the  residue  of  something  which  had  been  consumed  by 
fire.  This  idea  would  be  fostered  by  the  matter  very  commonly 
being  of  an  ashy  colour.1  Close  investigation  of  the  materials  shews 
that  there  is  scarcely  anything  (or  nothing)  of  the  nature  of  ash 
amongst  them.  They  are  composed  of  rocky  and  mineral  frag- 
ments. The  rocky  ones  are  often  angular  chips  of  lava,  while 
felspar  constitutes  a large  proportion  of  the  glassy  ones.  Frag- 
ments of  scoria  (scum  of  lava)  are  common,  and  magnetic  particles 
are  always  present  in  the  Cotopaxi  dusts. 

It  is  a rather  troublesome  peculiarity  of  volcanic  dust  that 
it  will  penetrate  anywhere.  The  extreme  fineness  of  the  more 

1 A number  of  the  volcanic  dusts  I collected  in  Ecuador  have  this  appearance 
when  seen  in  bulk.  Some  incline  towards  slaty-grey,  while  others  are  of  slightly 
warmer  hues.  Under  very  moderate  magnifying  power  it  is,  however,  seen  that  the 
particles  are  rather  sharply  divided  into  very  light-coloured  glassy  fragments,  and 
very  dark  rocky  ones.  The  ashy  colour  is  produced  by  the  admixture  of  the  two 
classes  of  atoms.  Several  of  these  Cotopaxi  dusts  have  been  examined  microscop- 
ically by  Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney,  F.R.S.,  and  are  described  by  him  in  the  Pro- 
ceedings of  the  Royal  Society,  June,  1884.  Those  who  are  desirous  of  pursuing  this 
subject  arc  referred  to  that  paper. 


CHAP.  VII. 


VOLCANIC  DUSTS. 


141 


minute  particles  permits  it  to  get  into  places  which  might  be 
deemed  inaccessible.  It  floats  in  the  air,  travels  round  corners, 
and  insinuates  itself  through  cracks  into  sheltered  places  which 
cannot  he  reached  by  objects  falling  directly  from  the  heavens, 
and  when  settled  in  them  it  is  secure  against  disturbance  by 
wind.  Whatever  falls  upon  open  ground,  on  the  contrary,  is 
wafted  hither  and  thither  by  the  slightest  breeze,1  and  thus  the 
traces  even  of  considerable  eruptions  are  speedily  confused  with 
previous  ones.2  There  was  a good  illustration  of  this  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  our  camp.  In  all  the  cavernous  recesses  of 
the  scoria,  and  in  other  sheltered  places,  there  was  a thick 
deposit  of  a dust  of  a very  marked  granular  character,  in  appear- 
ance, though  not  in  constitution,  quite  unlike  any  other  I 
obtained.3  This  had  evidently,  from  the  thickness  of  the  deposit, 
been  ejected  during  a somewhat  severe  eruption,  and  must  have 
fallen  everywhere.  Though  found  in  every  hollow  or  protected 
place,  it  could  not  be  identified  anywhere  else.  Yet  this  was  a 
rather  coarse  dust,  the  predominant  particles  weighing  about  two 
thousand  to  a grain,  and  the  largest  ones  measuring  '04  of  an  inch 

i Upon  this  account,  travelling  in  the  interior  of  Ecuador  during  dry  weather 
is  often  exceedingly  unpleasant.  It  is  sometimes  impossible  to  face  the  clouds  of 
dust  which  are  raised.  With  myriads  of  sharp,  glassy  and  rocky  fragments  con- 
stantly drifting  about,  it  is  not  surprising  that  eye  complaints  are  common  amongst 
the  natives. 

3 This  was  the  case  with  the  dusts  which  were  ejected  during  the  great  eruptions 
of  1877.  By  general  consent,  they  fell  most  heavily  around  Machachi ; and,  accord- 
ing to  Antonio  Racines,  covered  everything  to  a depth  of  more  than  two  inches, 
and  obliged  the  inhabitants  to  drive  their  animals  elsewhere  for  food.  At  the 
time  of  our  stay,  he  could  not  point  them  out  anywhere  as  a distinct  stratum,  as 
they  had  been  dispersed  by  wind,  or  turned  over  in  the  course  of  agriculture. 

3 “ A dust  consisting  of  dark  granules,  mixed  with  light  grey  and  reddish 
6pecks.  The  materials  are  rather  coarse,  the  granules  ranging  from  about  ’01  to 
■015  inch.  The  most  abundant  are  minute  lapilli  of  scoriaceous  aspect,  and  dark 
colour,  almost  black  ; in  less  numbers  are  glassy  whitish  and  reddish  granules ; with 
these  occur  fragments  of  felspar,  augite,  and  hypersthene.  Of  the  latter  mineral 
there  was  a fairly  perfect  crystal  about  -015  long.  . . . The  granular  character 
of  the  dust  readily  distinguishes  it  from  other  examples.” — Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney. 


142 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vii. 


in  diameter.  The  atoms  of  the  finer  dusts  may  not  be  so  much 
as  a thousandth  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  or,  as  I shall  relate  in 
Chapter  XVIII.,  weigh  one  twenty-five-thousandth  part  of  a grain. 

The  night  of  February  15-16  passed  away  without  excite- 
ment. There  were  occasional  rumblings  in  the  bowels  of  the 
mountain,  and  a few  noises  of  a sharper  sort,  which  sounded  like 
slams  of  doors  in  an  ordinary  stone  corridor.  Snow  fell  for 
several  hours,  and  in  the  morning  the  tent  and  packing-cases 
were  laden  with  it,  though  it  was  rapidly  disappearing  on  the 
cone.  We  found  this  usually  happened.1  Several  inches  of  snow 
fell  every  day,  but  it  remained  only  a short  time,  notwithstand- 
ing the  temperature  of  the  air,  which  was  sometimes  as  low  as 
24°  Faht.  The  warmth  of  the  cone  quickly  liquefied  it  ; the 
snow-water  descended  immediately  into  the  porous  soil,  and  the 
mountain  steamed  from  head  to  foot.  It  is  in  this  way  the 
atmosphere  of  haze  is  produced  to  which  I have  already  referred. 

Our  first  business  in  the  morning  was  to  improve  the  shelter 
for  our  people,  and  to  sort  them  off  — for  there  were  too  many 
mouths  to  feed.  The  whole  of  the  Machachi  men  were  told 
they  might  go  home,  or  stop,  as  they  pleased  ; and  that  those 
who  stopped  should  receive  a silvered  cross  in  addition  to  their 
pay.2  “ If  I did  not  believe  in  that,"  said  the  oldest  of  the 
troop,  Gregorio  Albuja,  “ I would  not  have  come  here.  I will 
stop  with  you  ” ; and,  taking  the  cross,  which  I held  out,  he 
pressed  it  reverently  to  his  lips,  and  then  passed  it  to  his  com- 
panions, who  did  the  same.  Two  others  agreed  to  stop,  and  the 
rest  returned  home. 

Those  who  remained  we  now  proceeded  to  dress  up  in  accord- 

1 Snow  fell  on  Cotopaxi,  in  February,  quite  1000  feet  lower  than  upon  Chim- 
borazo in  January. 

a I took  to  Ecuador  a number  of  gilt  and  silvered  crosses,  and  made  use  of  them 
as  rewards  for  special  services.  The  worship  of  the  cross  was  introduced  into  this 
country  at  the  point  of  the  sword,  and  has  been  developed  by  means  of  the  whip. 
It  is  now  lirmly  rooted  there,  amongst  all  classes.  Even  the  Indians  voluntarily 
make  for  themselves  such  rude  crucifixes  as  that  in  the  illustration  upon  p.  156. 


CHAP.  VII. 


PREPARA  TIONS. 


143 


ance  with  our  ideas  of  propriety,  for  the  ordinary  native  dress 
is  as  unsuited  to  mountaineering  as  can  well  be.  It  commences 
with  a straw  hat  that  generally  blows  away,  and  terminates  with 
alpargatas  (string  shoes),  which,  although  sufficient  when  marching 
along  dusty  roads,  inadequately  protect  the  feet  when  tramping 


/ 


AN  ALPARGATA. 


over  snow  and  rock.  Having  rigged  them  out  in  some  of  our 
surplus  stores,  I despatched  them  upwards  under  the  direction 
of  Jean-Antoine  with  a tent,  and  a quantity  of  rope,  provisions, 
and  etceteras,  and  they  had  a constant  struggle  with  the  elements. 
Both  of  the  Ecuadorians  broke  down  after  a time,  and  the  heavy 
part  of  the  work,  as  usual,  was  performed  by  the  Carrels.  The 
weather  was  the  worst.  During  most  of  the  day  it  hailed  or 
snowed,  and  in  the  rest  there  was  fog  or  high  wind,  accompanied 
by  much  thunder  and  lightning. 

The  weather  on  February  17th  strongly  resembled  that  of 
the  day  before.  At  daybreak  the  temperature  was  28°  Faht., 
and  in  the  previous  night  it  had  been  three  degrees  lower.  But 
upon  this  day  we  heard  no  noises  proceeding  from  the  interior 
of  the  cone,  although  they  had  been  frequent  during  the  16th. 
At  7 a.m.  the  summit  was  visible  for  a few  minutes,  and  was 
seen  to  be  emitting  vast  clouds  of  steam  continuously,  which 


144 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vii. 


rolled  up  over  the  edge  of  the  crater,  and  drifted  away  towards 
the  north.  Storms  of  hail  were  frequent  ; and  both  here,  and 
when  we  were  subsequently  encamped  at  the  summit,  stray 
flashes  of  lightning  occurred  in  uncomfortable  if  not  in  dangerous 
proximity  — blazing  out  at  unexpected  times,  and  conveying  the 
impression  that  the  atmosphere  was  saturated  with  electricity. 

When  it  was  possible  to  work  outside  the  tent  we  explored 
the  neighbourhood,  but  our  acquisitions  here  were  less  than  upon 
any  other  mountain  that  we  visited.  The  beetles  already  men- 
tioned, and  an  ubiquitous  frog  ( Phryniscus  Icevis,  Gthr.)  were  the 
only  things  we  saw  appertaining 
to  the  animal  kingdom.  Round 
about  and  below  our  camp  there 
were  lichens  upon  the  lava  be- 
longing to  the  genera  Stereocau- 
lon  and  Lecanora,  and  between 
14,000  and  15,000  feet  there 
was  some  quantity  of  a Valerian 
( T'.  Bonplandiana,  Wedd.),  a few 
stray  plants  of  Gentian  in  flower 
( G.foliosa,  II.  B. K.  ),and  two  Com- 
posites ( Culcitium  nivale  ? and 
Senecio  humillimus,  Sz.  Bip.). 


CAMP  ON  COTOPAXI  (15,139  FEET). 


CHAP.  VII. 


START  FOR  TIJE  SUMMIT. 


145 


Above  the  camp  I found  nothing,  either  animal  or  vegetable, 
except  some  shabby  patches  of  moss  (at  15,350  feet),  which  has 
been  dubiously  identified  as  Webera  nutans , Scliimp.  Everything 
besides  growing  in  ash  was  covered  with  it,  and  presented  a very 
dirty  and  unhappy  appearance. 

The  preparations  for  a start  to  the  summit  were  now  com- 
pleted. The  tent  below  was  left  standing,  well-provisioned,  in 
case  we  had  to  make  a precipitate  retreat  ; and  there  was  food 
enough  near  the  top  of  the  mountain  for  several  days,  should 
we  be  kept  prisoners  there.  The  morning  of  February  18  was 
unusually  fine,  and  the  upper  part  of  the  cone  was  free  from 
clouds  for  several  hours.  I started  off  Jean- Antoine  Carrel  with 
two  natives  at  5.20  a.m.  and  followed  with  Louis  at  six,  catch- 
ing the  others  when  they  were  about  17,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
We  had  fine  views  of  Sincholagua  (16,305  feet),  Antisana  (19,335), 
and  Cayambe  (19,186),  and  spent  time  in  examining  these 
mountains  with  a telescope,  with  a view  to  ascending  them.1 
Antisana  bore  N.E.  by  E.,  distant  about  28  miles,  and  there  was 
in  its  rear,  and  rising  higher  than  it,  a large  pile  of  cumulus 
cloud,  which  I estimate  cannot  have  been  less  than  23,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This  is  the  greatest  elevation 
at  which  I have  seen  this  description  of  cloud  anywhere. 

The  ascent  to  Cotopaxi,  by  the  route  we  followed,  was  a walk  ; 
and  the  direction  that  we  took  is  best  indicated  by  saying  that 
we  kept  along  the  crest  of  the  rather  ill-defined  ridge2  which 
descends  almost  continuously  from  the  summit  towards  the 
mountain  Ruminahui.3  No  climbing  whatever  was  necessary.  The 

1 Later  on  we  ascended  all  three  mountains.  They  were  distant  12,  28,  and 
62  miles  respectively. 

3 This  ridge  is  the  Yanasache  lava.  It  appears  to  issue  from  a fissure  in  the 
cone  between  18,000  and  19,000  feet  above  the  sea.  It  was  completely  buried  in 
snow  at  that  height. 

3 The  route  we  followed  is  seen  in  the  view  upon  p.  137,  taken  from  the  lower 
camp.  The  view  upon  p.  144  was  taken  with  the  back  to  the  summit  of  Coto- 
paxi, looking  towards  Ruminahui. 

U 


146 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  AXDES.  chap.  vii. 


lower  camp  was  distant  about  8G00  feet  from  the  nearest  part  of 
the  crater,  and  in  this  distance  we  rose  4500  feet.  Isolated  snow- 
patches  commenced  at  about  15.400  feet,  and  a little  higher  we 
were  able  to  follow  snow  uninterruptedly  right  up  to  the  slope 
upon  which  I proposed  to  encamp.  In  order  to  ensure  regularity 
in  the  march,  we  tied  up  in  line,  a proceeding  that  our  natives 
did  not  at  all  comprehend,  and  they  wondered  still  more  at  the 
use  of  the  axe  in  cutting  steps  in  the  snow,  to  facilitate  progress. 
The  most  interesting  feature  I noticed  upon  this  section  of  the 
mountain  was  the  existence  of  glaciers  upon  the  upper  part  of 
the  cone.  They  occurred  on  each  side  of  us,  and  in  some  places 
extended  to  within  500  feet  of  the  top  ; but,  through  being 
much  covered  by  ash,  it  was  not  possible  to  say  exactly  where 
they  commenced  or  terminated,  and  for  the  same  reason  they 
were  quite  unrecognisable  at  a distauce. 

At  11  a.m.  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  great  slope  of  ash 
upon  the  western  side  of  the  summit,  which  leads  right  up  to 
the  edge  of  the  crater,  and  we  found  this  was  the  steeliest  and 
most  laborious  part  of  the  ascent.  I estimate  it  to  be  150  feet 
high,  and  1100  feet  long.  It  was  composed  of  the  materials 
which  are  being  daily,  even  hourly  ejected 1 (mainly  of  particles 
weighing  about  500  to  a grain,  with  an  admixture  of  angular 
fragments  of  lava  up  to  a quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter),  and 
it  was  piled  up  nearly  to  the  maximum  angle  at  which  it  would 
stand.  I know  experimentally  that  its  materials  will  stand  at 

1 The  eruptions  of  Cotopaxi  yield  information  respecting  the  prevailing  winds 
of  this  region,  and  shew  clearly  that  they  by  no  means  blow  uniformly  from  the 
east,  as  some  suppose.  The  slope  of  ash  at  the  top  of  Cotopaxi,  upon  its  western 
side,  proves,  however,  the  preponderance  of  easterly  winds  at  that  particular  spot 
and  elevation  ; and  from  the  whole  of  my  experiences  in  Ecuador  I should  say 
that  in  the  interior  generally,  near  the  earth  (at  heights  from  9000  to  10.000  feet) 
easterly  winds  predominate,  and  that  north-westerly  ones  are  as  rare  as  in  Great 
Britain.  But  winds  blowing  from  the  true  east  were  almost  equally  scarce, 
though  north-easterly  and  south-easterly  ones  were  frequent.  From  greater  eleva- 
tions (say  20,000-40.000  feet  above  the  seal  there  was  abundant  evidence  of  the 
occurrence  of  powerful  northerly  and  southerly  winds,  as  well  as  easterly  ones. 


PART  OF  THE  INTERIOR  OF  THE  CRATER  OF  COTOPAXI. 


CHAP.  VII. 


SECOND  CAMP  ON  COTOPAXI. 


147 


41°,  but  the  face  of  the  slope  was  not,  I think,  steeper  than 
37°. 1 We  deposited  our  baggage  at  the  foot  of  it  until  we  had 
completed  the  ascent,  and  found  that  occasional  streaks  of  ice 
gave  some  stability  to  the  mass,  which  would  otherwise  have 
slipped  down  in  large  quantities  at  every  step. 

We  hurried  up  this  unstable  slope  as  fast  as  we  could  go, 
and  reached  the  western  edge  of  the  summit  rim  exactly  at 
mid-day.  The  crater  was  nearly  filled  with  smoke  and  steam, 
which  drifted  about  and  obscured  the  view.  The  opposite  side 
could  scarcely  be  perceived,  and  the  bottom  was  quite  concealed. 
As  the  vapours  were  wafted  hither  and  thither,  we  gained  a 
pretty  good  idea  of  the  general  shape  of  the  crater,  though  as 
a whole  it  was  not  seen  until  night-time. 

A few  minutes  after  our  arrival,  a roar  from  the  bottom 
told  us  that  the  “ animal  ” (Carrel’s  term  for  the  volcano)  was 
alive.  It  had  been  settled  beforehand  that  every  man  was  to 
shift  for  himself  if  an  eruption  occurred,  and  that  all  our  be- 
longings were  to  be  abandoned.  When  we  heard  the  roar,  there 
Avas  an  “ it  is  time  to  be  off  ” expression  clearly  Avritten  on  all 
our  faces  ; but  before  a Avord  could  be  uttered  we  found  our- 
selves enveloped  only  in  a cloud  of  cool  and  quite  unobjection- 
able steam,  and  we  concluded  to  stop-. 

The  establishment  of  the  tent  Avas  the  first  consideration. 
It  was  unanimously  decided  that  it  Avas  not  advisable  to  camp 
at  the  top  of  the  slope,  close  to  the  rim  or  lip  of  the  crater, 
on  account  of  wind  and  the  liability  to  harm  from  lightning, 
and  the  more  I examined  the  slope  itself  the  less  I liked  it. 
It  Avas  naked,  exposed,  and  slipped  upon  the  slightest  provoca- 
tion. Jean- Antoine  and  I therefore  set  out  on  a tour  to  look 

for  a better  place,  but  after  spending  several  hours  in  passing 
round  about  a quarter  of  the  crater,  without  result,  we  returned 
to  the  others,  and  all  hands  set  to  Avork  to  endeavour  to  make 
a platform  upon  the  ash.  This  proved  to  be  a long  and  trouble- 

1 This  is  the  angle  represented  in  the  section  on  p.  149. 


148 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  tii. 


some  business.  Unlike  snow,  it  gained  no  coherence  by  being 
beaten  or  trampled  down,  and  the  more  they  raked  to  extend 
our  platform  the  more  slipped  down  from  above.  Ultimately 
it  was  made  sufficiently  secure  by  scooping  channels  in  the 
portion  of  the  slope  which  was  above  and  tenderly  pouring 
many  tons  upon  the  slope  below,  so  as  to  strengthen  the  base. 
The  tent-ropes  were  secured  to  large  blocks  of  lava,  which  had 
to  be  brought  from  long  distances  and  buried  in  the  ash.  For 
additional  security  four  ropes  were  run  out  besides  the  usual 
ones,  and  we  rigged  up  our  long  rope  as  a sort  of  handrail  to 
the  nearest  convenient  point  of  the  rim  of  the  crater,  from 
which  we  were  distant  250  feet.  When  this  was  done,  the 
natives  were  sent  back  to  the  lower  camp,  and  the  Carrels  and 
I remained  alone. 

We  had  scarcely  completed  our  preparations  when  a violent 
squall  arose,  which  threatened  to  carry  the  whole  establishment 
away,  and  during  an  hour  it  was  a great  question  whether  our 
abode  would  weather  the  storm.  The  squall  passed  away  as 
suddenly  as  it  rose,  and  for  the  rest  of  our  stay  we  were  not 

much  troubled  by  wind.  While  this  was  occurring  there  was 

another  cause  for  alarm.  A great  smell  of  india-rubber  com- 
menced to  arise,  and  on  putting  my  hand  to  the  floor  of  the 

tent  I found  that  it  was  on  the  point  of  melting.  On  placing 

a maximum  thermometer  on  the  floor  (at  the  point  marked  C 
in  the  annexed  diagram),  it  rose  until  it  indicated  110°  Faht. 
As  my  feet  did  not  feel  at  all  warm  I tried  the  temperature  at 
the  other  side  of  the  tent  (at  A)  and  found  it  was  only  50°,  and 
in  the  middle  (at  B)  it  was  72°\5.  These  temperatures  were 
maintained  during  our  stay  on  this  spot.  Outside,  even  during 
the  daytime,  the  air  was  intensely  cold  ; 1 and  the  minimum  of 

1 This  had  been  anticipated,  and  we  suffered  no  inconvenience  from  cold.  I 
sent  up  a large  quantity  of  extra  ponchos  and  wraps,  and  our  wearing  apparel 
was  more  than  doubled.  Besides  my  usual  dress,  I wore  an  extra  flannel  shirt, 
a thick  woollen  sweater,  a down  dressing-gown,  and  a huge  Ulster  coat  over  all. 


CHAP.  VII. 


NIGHT  ON  THE  SUMMIT. 


149 


the  night  of  February  18,  registered  by  a thermometer  placed 
four  feet  above  the  ground  and  four  feet  from  the  tent  on  its 
windward  side,  was  13°  Faht.,  which  was  the  lowest  temperature 
that  was  observed  during  the  whole  of  the  journey. 


When  daylight  began  to  fail,  we  settled  down  in  the  tent,  and 
it  is  now  time  to  recur  to  the  motive  which  had  taken  us  to  the 
summit  of  Cotopaxi.  There  were  three  principal  questions  to 
which  I desired  answers.  1.  Shall  we,  upon  again  reaching  the 
elevation,  and  experiencing  the  diminution  in  pressure  which  had 
rendered  us  incapable  on  Chimborazo,  have  a recurrence  of  our  ex- 
periences upon  that  mountain  ? 2.  Or,  are  we  now  habituated  to 

a pressure  of  16  inches  ? 3.  If  we  are  habituated  to  a pressure  of 
16  inches,  shall  we  now  be  able  to  remain  some  length  of  time  at 
a considerably  lower  pressure  without  being  rendered  incapable  ? 

During  the  ascent  I had  watched  my  people  with  mingled 
feelings  of  curiosity  and  anxiety.  Their  pace  was  rather  slow,1 

My  head  was  protected  by  a knitted  woollen  headpiece,  crowned  by  a Dundee 
whaling-cap,  with  flaps. 

1 Between  the  first  camp  and  the  summit  we  rose  at  the  rate  of  700  feet  per 
hour,  which  was  a fair  one  for  heavily-laden  people.  My  own  load  weighed  33 
lbs.  All  the  others  carried  more  than  30  lbs.  apiece. 


150 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vii. 


but  it  was  steadily  maintained.  At  one  point,  when  between 
18,000  and  19,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  they  went 
up  360  steps  without  stopping.  I noticed  nothing  unusual 
during  the  ascent,  nor  upon  the  summit,  except  the  overpower- 
ing desire  to  sit  down,  which  always  mastered  us  when  we  were 
at  great  elevations  (low  pressures),  and  the  disposition  to  breathe 
through  open  mouths.  The  collapse  on  Chimborazo  had,  how- 
ever, occurred  very  suddenly.  We  were  all  right  in  one  hour 
and  all  wrong  in  the  next.  It  came  upon  us,  so  it  seemed, 
without  premonition.  All  at  once,  we  found  ourselves  with 
intense  headaches  (not  having  had  any  before),  gasping  for  air, 
and  half  asphyxiated.  Hour  after  hour  went  by  on  the  summit 
of  Cotopaxi  without  anything  of  the  kind  happening  again. 
Jean-Antoine  refused  to  admit  that  he  had  any  ailments  ; Louis 
acknowledged  that  he  had  a rather  sharp  headache,  and  I had 
a slight  one.  That  was  all,  beyond  the  feeling  of  lassitude 
which,  I repeat,  always  came  over  us  at  the  greatest  heights. 
On  Chimborazo  we  had  all  been  feverish.  Even  when  recover- 
ing, my  blood  temperature  was  as  high  as  100° -4  with  the  air 
at  49°.  On  Cotopaxi  it  remained  at  98° ‘2  both  with  higher  and 
lower  air  temperatures.  In  short,  during  the  twenty-six  hours 
which  we  passed  on  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi,  from  mid-day 
February  18,  to  2 p.m.  on  the  19th,  there  was  no  recurrence  of 
the  more  acute  symptoms,  and  no  perceptible  effects  were  pro- 
duced (beyond  those  which  have  been  mentioned)  by  the  low 
atmospheric  pressure  that  we  experienced.1 

When  night  fairly  set  in  we  went  up  to  view  the  interior 
of  the  crater.  The  atmosphere  was  cold  and  tranquil.  We  could 
hear  the  deadened  roar  of  the  steam-blasts  as  they  escaped  from 
time  to  time.  Our  long  rope  had  been  fixed  both  to  guide  in 
the  darkness,  and  to  lessen  the  chance  of  disturbing  the  equi- 
librium of  the  slope  of  ash.  Grasping  it,  I made  my  way 

1 At  6.20  a.m.,  on  Feb.  19,  on  the  rim  of  the  crater  (above  the  tent),  the 
mercurial  barometer  stood  at  14'748  inches,  with  the  air  temperature  at  21°  Faht. 


PART  OF  THE  EXTERIOR  OF  THE 


PAXI. 


CRATER 


CHAP.  VII. 


THE  CRATER  BY  EIGHT. 


151 


upwards,  prepared  for  something  dramatic,  for  a strong  glow  on 
the  under  sides  of  the  steam-clouds  shewed  that  there  was  fire 
below.  Crawling  and  grovelling  as  the  lip  was  approached,  I bent 

eagerly  forward  to  peer 
into  the  unknown,  with 
Carrel  behind,  gripping 
my  legs. 

The  vapours  no  longer 
concealed  any  part  of 
the  vast  crater,  though 
they  were  there,  drift- 
ing about,  as  before. 


‘ THERE  WAS  FIRE  BELOW.' 


152 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vii. 


We  saw  an  amphitheatre  2300  feet  in  diameter  from  north  to 
south,  and  1650  feet  across  from  east  to  west,1  with  a rugged  and 
irregular  crest,  notched  and  cracked  ; surrounded  by  cliffs,  by 
perpendicular  and  even  overhanging  precipices,  mixed  with  steep 
slopes  — some  bearing  snow,  and  others  apparently  encrusted  with 
sulphur.  Cavernous  recesses  belched  forth  smoke ; the  sides  of 


cracks  and  chasms  no  more  than  half-way  down  shone  with 
ruddy  light ; and  so  it  continued  on  all  sides,  right  down  to  the 
bottom,  precipice  alternating  with  slope,  and  the  fiery  fissures 
becoming  more  numerous  as  the  bottom  was  approached.  At 
the  bottom,  probably  twelve  hundred  feet  below  us,  and  towards 
the  centre,  there  was  a rudely  circular  spot,  about  one-tenth  of 
the  diameter  of  the  crater,  the  pipe  of  the  volcano,  its  channel 

1 The  accompanying  plan  is  made  from  measurements  which  were  taken  on 
the  following  morning.  From  A to  B (600  feet)  was  measured  by  a line.  2 repre- 
sents the  mouth  of  the  pipe  at  the  bottom  of  the  crater.  C was  the  lowest  point 
in  the  lip  or  rim,  and  A,  D,  E,  were  the  highest  ones. 


CHAP.  VII. 


A GREAT  SAFETY-VALVE. 


153 


of  communication  with  lower  regions,  filled  with  incandescent  if 
not  molten  lava,  glowing  and  burning  ; with  flames  travelling  to 
and  fro  over  its  surface,  and  scintillations  scattering  as  from  a 
wood-fire ; lighted  by  tongues  of  flickering  flame  which  issued 
from  the  cracks  in  the  surrounding  slopes. 

At  intervals  of  about  half  an  hour  the  volcano  regularly 
blew  off  steam.  It  rose  in  jets  with  great  violence  from  the 
bottom  of  the  crater,  and  boiled  over  the  lip.  continually  envelop- 
ing us.  The  noise  on  these  occasions  resembled  that  which  we 
hear  when  a large  ocean  steamer  is  blowing  off  steam.  It 
appeared  to  be  pure,  and  we  saw  nothing  thrown  out,  yet  in 
the  morning  the  tent  was  almost  black  with  matter  which  had 
been  ejected.  These  intermittent  and  violent  escapes  of  (com- 
paratively) small  quantities  of  steam  proceeded  with  considerable 
regularity  during  our  stay  on  the  summit,  but  I cannot  suppose 
they  are  continually  happening.  They  can  scarcely  have  occurred 
when  we  saw  the  clouds  of  steam  quietly  simmering  out  of  the 
crater  from  the  Hacienda  Rosario  (see  p.  123),  or  from  our  camp 
upon  Feb.  17,  and  upon  numerous  other  occasions.  Mv  prede- 
cessors on  Cotopaxi  do  not  speak  of  them.  They  were  evidently 
of  the  same  nature,  though  much  inferior  in  force  to  those 
which  we  had  seen  emitted  from  Sangai  a few  weeks  previously. 

I do  not  feel  able  to  frame  an  explanation  which  would 
account  for  these  outbursts  if  it  is  assumed  that  fluid,  molten 
lava  filled  the  pipe.  I conjecture  that  the  lava  in  the  pipe 
leading  from  the  bottom  of  the  crater,  although  intensely  hot. 
was  cooling  and  settling  down,  closing  fissures  and  imprisoning 
steam  that  desired  to  escape,  which  presently  acquired  sufficient 
force  to  burst  through  the  barriers  and  effect  temporary  relief. 
I imagine  that  the  settling  and  closing-up  process  recommenced 
after  each  outburst,  until  some  unusually  violent  explosion  estab- 
lished what  may  be  termed  a free  vent.  The  steam  then  welled 
out  unimpeded,  in  the  manner  we  so  frequently  observed.  After 
such  occasions,  the  internal  pressure  being  diminished,  I presume 

x 


154 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vii. 


that  tlie  closing-up  process  went  on  with  greater  activity,  and 
that  the  vent  was  sometimes  entirely  closed,  causing  the  volcano 
to  appear  unusually  tranquil. 

Steam  unquestionably  plays  a leading  part  in  the  operations 
of  Cotopaxi,  and  sometimes  the  quantity  that  issues  is  enormous. 
One  morning  in  the  following  April,  when  encamped,  at  the 
height  of  14.760  feet,  on  Cayambe,  at  a distance  of  about  sixty 
miles  to  the  north-north-east,  just  after  daybreak,  we  saw  Coto- 
paxi pouring  out  a prodigious  volume  of  steam,  which  boiled  up 
a few  hundred  feet  above  the  rim  of  its  crater,  and  then,  being 
caught  by  a south-westerly  wind,  was  borne  towards  the  north- 
east, almost  up  to  Cayambe.  The  bottom  of  this  cloud  was 
about  5000  feet  above  us  ; it  rose  at  least  a mile  high,  and  spread 
over  a width  of  several  miles  ; and,  as  it  was  travelling  a little 
to  the  east  of  ns,  we  had  a perfect  and  unimpeded  view  of  it. 
I estimate  that  on  this  occasion  we  saw  a continuous  body  of 
not  less  than  sixty  cubic  miles  of  cloud  formed  from  steam.  If 
this  vast  volume,  instead  of  issuing  from  a free  vent,  had  found 
its  passage  barred,  itself  imprisoned,  Cotopaxi  on  that  morning 
might  have  been  effaced,  and  the  whole  continent  might  have 
quivered  under  an  explosion  rivalling  or  surpassing  the  mighty 
catastrophe  at  Krakatoa. 

We  were  up  again  before  daylight  on  the  19th,  and  then 
measured  GOO  feet  on  the  western  side  of  the  crater,  and  took 
angles  to  gain  an  idea  of  its  dimensions.  I photographed  it,' 
and  made  final  observations  of  tlie  mercurial  barometer  to  deter- 
mine its  altitude.  From  the  mean  of  the  whole,  its  summit 
appears  to  be  19,613  feet  above  the  sea.  In  1872-3,  Messrs. 
Reiss  and  Stiibel  (by  angles  taken  from  various  barometrically 
measured  bases)  made  its  height  19,498  feet  ; and,  by  the  same 
method.  La  Condamine,  in  the  early  part  of  last  century,  found 
that  its  height  was  18,865  feet.  As  there  is  not  much  proba- 

1 Tlie  engraving  facing  p.  147  has  been  made  from  this  photograph.  The  whole  of 
the  interior  of  the  crater  was  surrounded  by  cliffs  and  slopes  of  the  same  character. 


chap.  vrr. 


SOME  MORE  “ TREASURES  ” / 


155 


bility  of  considerable  error  in  any  of  the  determinations,  it  would 
seem  that  Cotopaxi  has  materially  increased  its  elevation  in  the 
course  of  the  last  century  and  a half. 

The  time  to  descend  had  now  arrived,  and  at  11.30  a.m.  our 
Ecuadorians  should  have  remounted  to  assist  in  carrying  our 
baggage  down  again.  The  weather,  however,  was  abominable, 
and  they  preferred  to  leave  the  work  to  us.  After  depositing 
our  more  bulky  stores  at  the  foot  of  the  great  slope  of  ash.  we 
tramped  down  to  the  first  camp.  The  feet  of  Louis  were  still 
in  a very  tender  state,  and  he  could  not  take  part  in  racing ; 

but  Jean- Antoine  and  I went  down  as  hard  as  we  could,  and 

descended  the  4,300  feet  in  110  minutes.  Two  days  more  elapsed 
before  animals  could  be  brought  from  Machachi  for  the  retreat, 
and  it  was  late  on  the  21st  before  we  got  clear  of  Cotopaxi. 

The  night  was  dark,  and  the  path  invisible ; but  guided  by  the 

bells  we  gained  the  hamlet,  and  encamped  once  more  in  the 
chapel  of  Pedregal. 

The  rest  of  my  Machachi  men  now  returned  home,  and  the 
authorities  lost  no  time  in  interviewing  them,  for  these  poor 
noodles  were  possessed  with  the  idea  that  we  were  in  search  of 
gold.  “ Tell  us,  what  did  they  do  ? ” Said  my  men,  “ The  Doctor, 
dressed  like  a king,  went  from  one  place  to  another,  looking 
about  ; but  after  a time  Sefior  Juan  and  Sefior  Luis  seemed 
afraid  of  him,  for  they  tied  him  up  with  a rope.”  “ Enough  of 
this;  tell  us,  did  they  find  treasure?”  “We  think  they  did. 
They  went  down  on  their  hands  and  knees  searching  for  it,  and 
they  wrapped  what  they  took  in  paper  and  brought  it  away.” 
“Was  it  gold  ?”  “ We  do  not  know,  but  it  was  very  heavy.” 
This,  though  true,  was  rather  misleading.  The  “ royal  ” attire 
which  so  impressed  them  consisted  of  the  Ulster  coat  and  dress- 
ing-gown underneath,  crowned  by  the  Dundee  whaling-cap  ; and 
the  “treasures”  we  carried  away  were  samples  of  the  jagged 
crest  and  debris  of  the  terminal  slope. 


156 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  tii. 


Cotopaxi  shews  no  signs  of  approaching  decrepitude,  and  for 
many  centuries  yet  to  come  it  may  remain  the  highest  active 
volcano  in  the  world  ; or  perchance  the  imprisoned  forces  may 
find  an  easier  outlet,  through  barriers  offering  less  resistance, 
and  either  Sangai,  Tunguragua,  or  Pichincha  may  become  the 
premier  volcano  of  the  Equator.  Whilst  the  great  cone  which 
has  so  often  trembled  with  subterranean  thunders  — buried  be- 
neath glaciers  more  extensive  than  those  of  Cayambe  or  Anti- 
sana  — will  echo  with  the  crash  of  the  ice-avalanche;  its  crater 
will  disappear,  and,  over  its  rugged  floor  and  its  extinguished 
fires,  soft  snowflakes  will  rear  a majestic  dome  loftier  than 
Chimborazo. 


INDIAN  CRUCIFIX. 


THE  BELLS  OF  PEDKEGAL. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  SINCHOLAGUA. 

During  our  stay  at  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi,  we  had  remained 
continuously  for  twenty-six  hours  at  a lower  pressure  than  had 
been  experienced  during  any  twenty-six  consecutive  hours  on 
Chimborazo,1  without  having  a recurrence  of  what  I have  ven- 
tured to  term  the  acute  symptoms  of  mountain-sickness  ; and  this 
was  satisfactory,  as  it  indicated  that  we  had  become  somewhat 
habituated  to  low  pressures.  It  is  material  to  observe  that, 
although  we  were  actively  employed  during  much  of  the  time, 
the  work  in  which  we  were  engaged  did  not  tax  our  strength.  It 
is  by  no  means  certain,  if  larger  demands  had  been  made  upon 
it,  that  our  condition  would  have  remained  equally  sound. 

The  ascent  of  Cotopaxi,  however,  was  considered  severely  scien- 
tific by  my  men.  Prolonged  residences  in  exalted  situations  were 

1 The  highest  reading  of  the  mercurial  barometer  (reduced  to  32°  Faht.)  at  our 
camp  (135  feet  below  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi)  was  14'808  inches,  and  the  lowest 
was  14  761  inches.  This  (19,500  feet)  was  the  most  elevated  position  at  which 
we  encamped  on  the  journey. 


158 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  viii. 


little  to  their  taste.  They  pined  for  work  more  in  harmony  with 
the  old  traditions  ; for  something  with  dash  and  go, — the  sallying 
forth  in  the  dead  of  the  night  with  rope  and  axe,  to  slay  a giant ; 
returning  at  dnsk,  with  shonts  and  rejoicing,  bringing  its  head 
in  a haversack.  I sacrificed  a day  to  meet  their  wishes,  and  told 
them  to  select  a peak,  just  as  one  may  give  a sugar-plum  to  a 
fractious  child  to  keep  it  quiet. 

Giants  were  scarce  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Pedregal.  My 
men  looked  upon  Pasochoa  with  a sort  of  contempt,  and  at 
Ruminahui  with  disfavour,  as  there  were  at  least  half-a-dozen 
ways  up  it  ; and  their  choice  fell  upon  Sincholagua,  an  attenuated 
peak,  appetizing  to  persons  with  a taste  for  Aiguilles,  that  had 
stared  us  in  the  face  when  we  looked  out  of  the  window  at  Mach- 
achi,1  which  might  be  ascended  in  one  way,  and  in  one  only.  It 
may  be  described  as  forming  a northern  extension  of  the  massif 
of  Cotopaxi,  and  it  stands  to  that  mountain  in  much  the  same 
relation  as  Carihuairazo  to  Chimborazo. 

In  a section  of  Ecuador  in  this  latitude,  the  ground  (proceeding 
from  west  to  east)  falls  continuously  from  the  summit  of  Corazon  2 
to  the  bed  of  the  Rio  Grande  ; then  ascends,  to  cross  a ridge  con- 
necting Pasochoa  with  Ruminahui,  and  descends,  gently,  through 

1 Its  height  according  to  Messrs.  Reiss  and  Stiibel  is  16,365  feet  (4988  metres), 
and  La  Condamine  16,435  feet  (2570  toises).  It  is  probably  the  tenth  in  rank  of 
the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator. 

2 I am  unable  to  say  anything  about  the  country  on  the  Pacific  side  of  Corazon. 
We  did  not  see  it,  and  it  is  possible  that  for  some  distance  to  the  west  of  this 
mountain  it  has  never  been  seen  by  any  one.  Xo  reliance  can  be  placed  upon  that 
part  of  the  Maldonado  map. 

Amongst  the  curious  mistakes  of  detail  in  this  map  may  be  mentioned  the 
insertion  of  the  name  of  Ruminahui  (Ruminaui)  over  the  position  actually  occupied 
by  Pasochoa,  and  the  entire  omission  of  the  former  mountain.  On  this  map, 
nothing  is  made  to  intervene  between  Corazon  and  Cotopaxi.  In  La  Condamine’s 
map,  Ruminahui  occupies  its  proper  position, — Pasochoa,  however,  is  omitted. 

Ruminahui  (15,607  R.  & 8.)  is  a large  and  prominent  mountain,  though  not  one 
of  the  greatest  of  the  Andes  of  the  Equator.  From  north  to  south  it  extends  over 
about  twelve  miles,  and  it  fills  the  space  between  the  eastern  (right)  bank  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  and  our  track  from  Pedregal  to  Cotopaxi. 


CHAP.  VIII. 


THE  RIO  PITA. 


159 


Pedregal  to  the  bed  of  the  Rio  Pita  (about  11,300  feet).  Sincho- 
laerua  rises  on  the  eastern  side  of  this  river,  and  forms  the  cul- 
ruinating  point  of  a long  ridge  running  northwards  from  Cotopaxi, 
which  dies  out  in  the  basin  of  Chillo,  and  in  a manner  may  be 
said  to  extend  to  the  east  and  north-east  until  it  meets  the  western 
slopes  of  Antisana.1 

As  Sincholagua  promised  to  give  full  occupation  for  a day, 
it  was  arranged  to  ride  as  far  as  animals  could  be  used  ; and  we 
should  have  started  before  sunrise,  only,  when  the  right  time 
came  our  mules  were  nowhere,  or,  speaking  more  correctly,  they 
were  everywhere,  as  the  arrieros  after  carefully  driving  them  into 
a yard  where  there  was  nothing  to  eat  had  left  the  entrance  to  it 
unclosed,  and  the  animals  very  sensibly  wandered  out  on  the 
moorland,  where  they  could  browse. 

We  sallied  forth  on  Feb.  23,  at  7 a.m.,  and  after  returning  a 
few  miles  over  the  Cotopaxi  track  turned  sharply  towards  the 
east,  directly  towards  our  mountain  ; crossed  the  tiny  Rio  Pedregal 
and  some  moorish  ground,  and  at  8.15  forded  the  Rio  Pita.2  The 
ravages  of  the  great  flood  which  descended  from  Cotopaxi  on  June 
2G,  1877,  were  fresh  at  that  time,  and  it  was  clear  that  when  it 
was  at  its  highest  this  stream  must  have  been  about  1100  feet 
wide,  and  not  less  than  fifty  feet  deep.3  When  we  crossed  this 
formidable  river  it  had  shrunk  to  a width  of  about  two  hundred 
feet,  and  was  no  more  than  three  feet  in  depth. 

Sincholagua  rose  abruptly  on  its  right  bank.  The  Carrels 
went  to  the  front,  and  in  a few  minutes  Louis  became  embogged 

1 Three  weeks  later,  from  the  Hacienda  of  Antisanilla,  I saw  that  the  country 
between  Antisana  and  Sincholagua  might  almost  tie  termed  table-land ; having 
undulations,  but  no  salient  peaks,  and  an  extreme  elevation  of  13-13,000  feet. 

2 I did  not  observe  the  height  of  this  point.  It  was  probably  about  the  same 
as  that  of  the  Hacienda  of  Pedregal  (11,639  feet). 

3 From  the  note  at  p.  1:26,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  flood  travelled  the  whole 
distance  from  Cotopaxi  to  Esmeraldas  at  about  the  rate  of  seventeen  miles  per  hour. 
Owing  to  the  steepness  of  the  fall,  the  rate  was  no  doubt  much  greater  during  the 
earlier  part  of  its  course,  when  it  descended  into  the  basin  of  Chillo,  and  erased  the 
factories  of  the  Aguirre  family. 


160 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  vm. 


in  some  alluring  and  deceitful  ground.  In  this  country  (and  it 
may  perhaps  be  said  of  the  slopes  of  mountains  in  general)  any 
spot  that  is  especially  verdant  is  sure  to  he  swampy.  In  Ecuador, 
this  is  no  doubt  an  indication  that  the  earth  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  such  spots  is  not  fissured  ; water  is  unable  to 
drain  away,  and  the  soil  becomes  saturated.1 

After  all  hands  had  extricated  Louis  and  his  beast  from  the 
morass,  Cevallos  (our  principal  arriero)  took  the  lead.  He  was 
a capital  horseman,  and,  unlike  the  majority  of  his  class,  had  no 
objections  to  his  animals  going  to  great  heights.  We  pushed  on 
hard,  and  in  two  hours  and  a quarter  rose  three  thousand  feet, — 
half-way  up  coming  suddenly  upon  three  deer,  gambolling  about. 
These  lower  slopes,  though  steep,  were  easy  to  ride  over,  and 
up  to  14,000  feet  and  higher  were  rather  luxuriantly  covered 
with  grasses. 

At  about  the  height  of  14,800  feet  our  animals  could  go  no 
farther,  and  were  left  in  charge  of  Cevallos.  This  spot  was 
just  above  the  clouds  which  are  underneath  the  summit  in  the 
engraving  on  the  opposite  page.  All  the  grass  land  was  below, 
and  we  were  confronted  with  crags,  precipitous  enough  for  any 
one,  crowned  by  fields  of  snow  and  ice,  the  birthplace  of  a fine 
hanging-glacier  which  crept  down  almost  perpendicular  cliffs, 

1 The  scarcity  of  rills  and  streams  upon  most  of  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator 
was  continually  remarked,  and  we  frequently  had  trouble  in  obtaining  a supply  of 
water.  It  seems  not  improbable  that  the  surface  drainage  infiltrates  to  great  depths, 
and  supplies  much  of  the  steam  that  escapes  from  the  active  volcanoes.  Little  of  it 
reappears  on  the  surface  in  springs.  The  only  warm  spring  of  any  size  that  I saw 
in  the  interior  was  near  Machachi,  about  fifty  yards  from  the  west  (left)  bank  of  the 
Rio  (.ramie,  and  about  fifteen  feet  above  that  river.  It  bubbled  up  freely  in  a 
considerable  volume  in  a pool,  twelve  by  ten  feet  across,  with  a quantity  of  gas 
escaping.  The  temperature  of  this  spring  at  mid-day  was  69°  Faht.,  and  of  the  air 
65°'25.  It  was  said  that  in  the  early  morning  the  temperature  of  the  water  was 
higher.  It  was  scarcely  necessary  to  investigate  the  accuracy  of  this  statement. 
The  air  temperature  in  the  morning  was  generally  below  55°  Faht.;  and,  if  the 
warmth  of  the  spring  remained  constant,  the  contrast  between  the  two  temperatures 
would  be  greater  then  than  at  mid-day.  People  come  both  to  drink  at  and  to  bathe 
in  this  pool.  Its  taste  was  compared  to  Vichy  water. 


CHAP.  VIII. 


SINCHOLA  G UA . 


161 


clasping  the  rocks  with  its  fingers  and 
arms. 

We  tied  up,  and  steered  north-east 
over  some  rugged  ground.  The  manner 
of  approach  had  been  settled  before- 
hand. The  south  side  of  Sincholagua 
was  inaccessible  : garnished  with  pin- 


162 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  viii. 


nacles  like  the  teeth  of  a saw,  and  terminated  at  the  immediate 
summit  by  sheer  precipice.  The  western  side  was  equally  un- 
assailable, and  the  only  way  by  which  the  top  might  be  reached 
was  from  the  north,  along  the  snow  arete  at  the  crest  of  the 
mountain. 

In  two  hours  we  rose  more  than  another  thousand  feet,  and 
(having  turned  sharply  to  the  right  and  climbed  the  snow  on 
the  left  of  the  engraving)  passed  under  the  cliffs  of  the  minor 
(northern)  peak.  We  were  nearly  sixteen  thousand  feet  high, 
with  a clear  sky.  and  the  summit  not  far  off  ; men  in  good  spirits, 
rather  inclined  to  crow,  and  to  vaunt  the  superiority  of  the  old 
style,  when — Heaven  knows  where  it  came  from  — a hailstorm 
sent  us  flying  for  protection  to  the  cliffs,  crouching  in  their 
fissures,  covering  our  faces  with  our  hands  to  save  them  from  the 
half-inch  stones  which  bounded  and  ricochetted  in  all  directions, 
and  smote  the  rocks  with  such  fury  that  they  dislodged  or  actually 
broke  fragments  from  the  higher  ledges.  Twice  we  left  our  refuge 
and  were  beaten  back.  These  ice-balls  were  as  unpleasant  as  a 
shower  of  bullets. 

Then  came  a lull.  Snow  began  to  fall,  at  first  mixed  with 

the  hail,  and  afterwards  in  large  flakes,  thickly.  The  hail 

ceased,  and  was  succeeded  by  lightning.  Emerging  from  our 
retreat,  we  traversed  the  glacier  to  a small  island  in  its  midst,1 
and  stormed  the  slope  banked-up  against  the  wall  which  forms 
the  summit  ridge,  and  found  the  drifted  snow  along  its  crest 
surmounted  a sheer  precipice  on  the  eastern  side.  The  narrow 

way  along  the  top  led  to  the  foot  of  the  final  peak.  The  route 

could  not  be  mistaken,  though  the  summit  was  invisible  and  our 
arete,  rising  at  an  increasing  angle,  disappeared  in  the  thunder- 
clouds. 

Hitherto  the  flashes  had  only  glanced  occasionally  through 

1 This  was  the  fifth  mountain  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Equator  upon  which 
we  had  already  found  glaciers.  The  others  were  Chimborazo,  Carihuairazo,  Illiniza 
and  Cotopaxi. 


CHAP.  VIII. 


AT  THE  SUMMIT  OF  SINCHOLAGUA. 


163 


With  ice-axes  hissing  ominously,  and  confined  to  the  crest  of 
the  ridge  by  the  abruptness  of  its  sides,  we  gradually  approached 
the  summit.  The  last  few  yards  were  the  steepest  of  all.  The 
snow  was  reduced  to  a mere  thread  (too  small  to  he  shewn  in 
the  annexed  engraving 2),  leaning  against  the  rock,  and  it  was 
marvellous  that  it  stood  firmly  at  such  an  angle.  Steps  at  an 
ordinary  distance  apart  could  not  be  made.  The  leading  man 
stretched  forward  to  scrape  away  a small  platform,  flogged  it 

1 See  Scrambles  amongst  the  Alps,  pp.  172-4. 

a Which  gives  an  accurate  sectional  representation  of  the  final  peak  from  north 
to  south.  Our  track  is  shewn  by  the  dotted  line,  and  the  summit  lies  underneath 
the  cross.  From  east  to  west  the  top  of  this  mountain  is  much  smaller  than  in 
the  other  direction. 


the  murky  air,  each  followed  by  a single  bang,  which  is  all  one 
hears  when  close  to  the  point  of  discharge.1  Around  the  peak 
they  blazed  away  without  intermission,  several  often  occurring  in 
a single  instant.  The  whole  air  seemed  to  be  saturated  with 
electricity,  and  the  thunder  kept  up  an  almost  continuous  roar. 


1(54 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  viii. 


down  to  make  it  cohere,  then  dashed  his  axe  in  as  high  as  he 
could  reach  and  hooked  himself  up,  while  number  two  drove  in 
his  baton  as  far  as  it  would  go  to  prevent  the  snow  from  breaking 
down.1  In  this  manner  we  arrived  at  the  summit.  Its  top  was 
too  small  to  get  upon,  and,  by  exception,  Mas  solid,  unshattered 
rock  right  up  to  its  very  highest  point.  Jean-Antoine  knocked 
off  its  head  with  his  ice-axe  whilst  I operated  a feu-  feet  beloM\ 
Having  performed  this  important  ceremony,  we  immediately 
descended,  face  inwards  for  the  first  part  of  the  way,  with  light- 
ning blazing  all  around  as  far  as  the  end  of  the  summit  ridge. 
Then  it  ceased ; we  ran  down  to  Cevallos,  and,  driving  the  beasts 
before  us  at  a trot  to  the  bottom  of  the  slopes,  recrossed  the 
Rio  Pita  higher  up  than  before,  and  pushed  the  pace  hard  all 
the  M'ay  to  Pedregal.2  The  giant  was  slain,  and  MTe  returned, 
rejoicing,  with  its  head3  in  a bag,  though  with  little  to  shew 
besides,  and  nothing  that  need  be  mentioned  except  a sedge  (a 
variety  of  Carex  Jamesoni,  Boott)  which  Mras  obtained  at  the 
height  of  about  14,500  feet. 

1 Both  here  and  in  other  places  we  should  have  been  beaten  if  the  snow  had 
not  been  moist  and  tenacious.  Dry,  flour-like  snow  will  not  stand  at  such  angles 

as  were  traversed  at  the  top  of  Sincholagua. 

3 Left  the  summit  at  2.30  p.m.,  and  arrived  at  Pedregal  6.50  p.m.  The  time 
occupied  on  the  ascent  and  descent  (excluding  halts)  was  9 hs.  25  min.  The  mean 
of  the  ascending  and  descending  rates  was  about  one  thousand  feet  per  hour. 

3 *■  A compact  dark-coloured  rock,  with  a slightly  rough  fracture,  containing 
numerous  small  crystals  of  whitish  felspar,  generally  not  exceeding  T inch  in 
the  longer  diameter.  Under  the  microscope,  the  ground-mass  is  seen  to  be  a 
felted  mass  of  minute  elongated  crystallites,  probably  felspar,  and  of  specks  of 
opacite  ; there  is  probably  a residual  glassy  base,  but  so  numerous  are  the  crystallites 
that  it  is  by  no  means  easy  to  be  sure.  In  this  ground-mass  are  scattered  larger 
crystals  of  plagioelastic  felspar  similar  to  those  already  described,  augite,  with 
probably  some  hypersthene  and  magnetite.  The  rock  is  thus  an  augite-andesite, 
probably  hyperstheniferous.” — Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney,  Proc.  Roy.  Soc.,  Xov.  1884. 

In  the  paper  already  cited  in  Hist,  de  VAcad.  Roy.  des  Sciences,  Paris,  1751,  La 
Condamine  says  “ Sinchoulagoa,  Volcan  en  1660,  communiquant  avec  Pitehincha.” 
I do  not  know  his  authority  for  these  statements.  No  semblance  of  a crater  was 
seen  on  any  part  of  it. 


chap.  vrn. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  MAC  MAC  III. 


165 


Louis  now  (after  seven  weeks'  rest)  was  sufficiently  restored 
for  active  exertion,  and  I proposed  to  make  my  way  to  Antisana. 
Being  advised  that  it  would  be  easiest  to  proceed  via  Quito,  I 

decided  to  shift  head-quarters 
to  the  Capital,  and  we  re- 
turned to  Machachi  to  make 
the  necessary  preparations. 
When  the  time  came  for  de- 
parture, quite  a little  crowd 

assembled.  We  had  entered 
the  place  strangers,  our  ways 
appeared  odd  to  the  natives, 

and  we  could  not  converse 
with  freedom.  But  in  course 
of  time  a good  understanding 
had  arisen.  The  language  of 
kindness  is  under- 
stood everywhere. 
They  had  been  use- 
ful to  us,  and  we 
had  not  been  un- 
mindful of  them  ; 
and  now,  when 
about  to  leave,  all 
our  young  friends 
(with  the  little  girl 
in  blue).  David 


and  his  wife,  Gre- 
A-r  pedrf.gal  gorio,  Lorenzo,  the 

poncho-maker,  and 

many  others  came  together  to  say  good-bye  ; while  Antonio 
Racines,  arrayed  in  his  best,  accompanied  us  several  miles  on 
the  road,  and  took  leave  with  many  good  wishes  and  profound 
salutations. 


166 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  yiii. 


On  crossing  the  Tiimbillo  ridge  (10,090  feet)  . Quito  made  its 
appearance,  looking  very  insignificant  at  the  foot  of  Pichincha. 
Upon  entering  the  city  we  went  at  once  to  the  Hotel  Giacometti, 
where  rooms  had  been  already  secured  by  the  good  offices  of  the 
British  Minister,  Mr.  F.  Douglas  Hamilton. 


ENTRANCE  TO  THE  HACIENDA,  PEDREGAL. 


ECUADOKIENNE  EARRINGS. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

ON  QUITO  AND  THE  QUITONIANS. 

The  Capital  of  the  Republic  of  the  Equator  is  situated  at  the 
bottom  of  the  eastern  slopes  of  Pichincha,  close  to  where  they 
abut  against  the  Puengasi  ridge ; and  between  these  two  mount- 
ains the  drainage  of  the  area  which  may  properly  be  termed  the 
basin  of  Quito  escapes,  through  a cleft,  on  to  the  Plain  of  Tumbaco. 
This  basin  extends  from  the  city  to  the  Tambillo  ridge,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  west  by  Atacatzo  and  part  of  Pichincha,  and  on 
the  east  by  Puengasi.  Previous  writers  have  spoken  of  the  valley 
of  Quito  ; and  (ignoring  the  natural  lines  of  drainage  which  have 
been  enumerated1)  have  even  applied  that  term  to  the  whole  of 
the  interior  embraced  between  Riobamba  and  the  Plain  of  Tum- 
baco. The  only  area  to  which  this  designation  can  properly  be 
given  is  that  which  is  indicated  above;  and  even  this,  it  seems 
to  me,  is  more  aptly  called  the-  basin  of  Quito. 

The  population  of  the  city  is  commonly  said  to  range  from 
60,000  to  80,000  : but,  from  comparison  of  the  spaces  known  to 
be  covered  by  towns  whose  population  has  been  ascertained,  I 


1 See  pp.  86.  97,  and  105. 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ix. 


168 

feel  confident  that  the  number  of  its  inhabitants  is  far  beneath 
the  lower  of  these  estimates.1  The  compact  part  of  Quito  does 
not  cover  a square  mile  ; and,  I think,  at  the  most,  the  city  proper 
cannot  contain  more  than  30,000  persons.  The  total  may,  per- 
haps, amount  to  34,000  or  35,000  if  the  suburbs  which  extend 
along  the  roads  going  north  and  south  are  included. 

The  northern  is  some  hundreds  of  feet  higher  than  the  southern 
end  of  Quito.2  Several  ancient  quebradas  run  through  the  heart 
of  the  city  ; and,  as  the  whole  of  the  ground  upon  which  it  stands 
is  sloping,  there  is  a natural  drainage  into  these  fissures.  This 
fact,  and  the  daily  occurrence  of  sharp  showers  which  cleanse  the 
place,  doubtless  account  for  its  freedom  from  bad  smells,  and 
immunity  from  pestilence.  It  had  no  proper  supply  of  water. 
The  populace  depended  upon  the  public  fountains  and  their  sur- 
rounding basins  in  the  Plazas,  which  were  contaminated  with 
abominations.  Very  particular  persons  had  two  pennyworths  of 
water  brought  every  morning,  several  miles,  in  large  pots  ; 3 but, 
judging  from  the  limited  number  of  water-carriers,  the  fastidious 
class  formed  a select  minority  of  the  population.  There  was  one 
old  water-carrier,  with  white  hair  and  a pink  face,  who  was  a 
well-known  figure  in  Quito.  I offered  to  take  his  portrait,  and 
told  him  that  he  should  have  a shilling  if  he  stood  quite  still 
and  only  fourpence  if  he  moved.  “Senor,”  said  the  old  fellow, 
“though  several  gentlemen  have  proposed  to  do  the  same,  you 
are  the  first  who  has  suggested  any  remuneration/’ 

1 Dr.  W.  Jameson  says  ( Journal  of  Royal  Geog.  Hoc.,  1861,  p.  185):  “On  several 
.occasions  the  Government  has  been  desirous  of  ascertaining  the  actual  number  of  in- 
habitants, but  without  arriving  at  a satisfactory  result.  The  people  became  alarmed, 
from  an  idea  that  the  formation  of  a census  is  a preliminary  step  towards  the  im- 
position of  a tax.”  Mr.  Church  (in  Report  to  Mr.  Blaine,  dated  1883)  says  the  same. 

2 The  accompanying  Plan  is  after  one  made  by  Father  J.  B.  Menten,  S.J.,  who 
was  Director  of  the  Observatory  in  1880.  Corrections  and  additions  have  been 
introduced  into  it.  The  names  of  the  streets  have  been  changed  since  the  original 
was  made,  and  it  would  be  useless  to  give  them. 

3 A medio  (equal  to  twopence)  was  the  regular  charge  for  a jar  like  that  borne  by 
the  water-carrier  I have  engraved. 


b.  MILEAGE  OF  STEAM  ROADS  ON  JUNE  30,  1910 


LINE  OWNED 

LINE  OPERATED 

(Includes* duplications  on  account  of  track 
jointly  operated  mileag 

age  rights 
i.) 

and  other 

Main  Track 

Second  Main  Track 

Yark  Track  & Sidings 

Total 

Main  Track 

Other  Tracks 

Total 

Miles 

Increase 

or 

Increase 

Miles 

Increase 

Decrease 

Miles 

Increase 

or 

Decrease 

Miles 

Increase 

or 

Decrease 

Miles 

Increase 

or 

Decrease 

Miles 

Increase 

or 

Decrease 

Miles 

Increase 

or 

Decrease 

Atchison,  Topeka  & Santa  Fe  Ry.  Co 

505.94 

6.20 

16.41 

.09 

275.1  1 

7.73 

797.46 

13.84 

506.21 

6.15 

322.17 

4.22 

828.38 

10.37 

6.49 

1.55 

8.04 

6.49 

1.55 

8.04 

394.36 

3.47 

535.24 

3.47 

429.33 

140.88 

3.47 

570.21 

3.47 

165.52 

374.90 

55.86 

430.76 

107.47 

128.16 

5.55 

7.52 

.14 

9.63 

30.41 

.14 

Colorado  & Southern  Ry.  Co. 

808.37 

1.31 

6.33 

3.67 

301.68 

6.  ,6 

1,116.38 

11.74 

875.09 

1.08 

321.75 

2.06 

1,196.85 

.98 

36.70 

1.25 

1.25 

37.14 

106.16 

1.25 

143.30 

2.93 

22.20 

261.10 

76.50 

337.60 

.19 

337.64 

113.48 

9.31 

451.12 

9.31 

Colorado  Springs  & Cripple  Creek  1 ».  Ry.  Co. 

74.25 

12.83 

87.08 

.52 

12.40 

11.01 

23.41 

.42 

86.65 

23.84 

.10 

IMI  f(j 

.10 

13.88 

4.34 

48.22 

43.88 

4.34 

18.22 

32.43 

20.60 

3.20 

23.80 

Crystal  River  & San  loan  R.  R.  Co. 

7.40 

.50 

7.90 

10.90 

.50 

11.40 

1 20  83 

5.34 

1.628.08 

619.27 

1.85 

2,247.35 

1.85 

Denver  & Salt  Lake  Railroad  Company 

252.35 

4 8.63 

.50 

300.98 

.50 

255.46 

56.09 

1.35 

311.55 

1.35 

45.99 

4 6.79 

6 21 

53.00 

52.00 

56.59 

9.01 

65.60 

15.90 

57.00 

57.00 

20.00 

77.00 

8.70 

.30 

9.00 

8.70 

.30 

9.00 

2 i in 

.04 

29.40 

15.59 

.04 

44.99 

.04 

152.12 

1 88.50 

.33 

152.12 

36. 38 

.33 

188.50 

.33 

62.08 

11.19 

182.27 

25.82 

208. 09 

1 79.79 

25.82 

205.61 

San  Luis  Central  R R.  Co 

12.21 

1.00 

13.21 

15.21 

1.00 

16.21 

San  Luis  Southern  Ry.  Co. 

31.53 

1.88 

33.41 

31.53 

2.63 

34.16 

Silverton  Railway 

17.00 

17.00 

17.00 

17.00 

7.20 

7.70 

siiverton  Northern  R.  R.  Co. 

20.80 

7.20 

4.11 

.50 

24.91 

7.70 

20  80 

4.11 

21.91 

Uintah  Railway  Company  

50.80 

.06 

50  80 

.06 

50.80 

.06 

50  xn 

.06 

Union  Pacific  R.  R.  Co. 

1.01 

13.49 

.18 

210.90 

.03 

815.61 

.80 

591.59 

1.01 

224.57 

.03 

816.16 

.98 

Totals  

5.646.17 

3.82 

— 

157.06 

3.58 

1.860.90 

1.29 

7.663.63 

1.05 

5,928.57 

5.68 

2.126.10 

17.01 

8.054.72 

22.69 

Bold  type  denotes  decrease. 


(Public  Utilities  Insert) 


CHAP.  IX. 


THE  PANECILLO  OF  QUITO. 


169 


The  best  near  view  of  the  city  is  obtained  from  the  top  of  a 
regularly  formed  Panecillo,  which  is  just  within  the  range  of  the 
Plan,1  and  from  the  same  spot  there  is  an  admirable  panorama  of 
the  Great  Andes  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  Equator. 
Looking  north,  first  comes  Cotocachi  (16,301).  a rather  sharp  peak. 


THE  OLD  WATER-CARRIER. 


of  pyramidal  form,  referred  to  in  a later  chapter  ; next,  turning 
eastwards,  there  is  Mojanda  (14,083  R.  & S. ),  which  perhaps  covers 
a greater  space  than  any  other  mountain  in  Ecuador ; then  Cay- 
ambe  (19,186),  a grand,  snow-clad  extinct  volcano  lying  just  north 

1 The  Panecillo  is  a recognized  playground  for  the  children  of  Quito.  It  was 
covered  with  grass  and  patches  of  dwarf  shrubs.  At  the  summit  there  was  a 
quantity  of  moss  of  the  genus  Macromitrium,  and  abundance  of  the  lichens  Physcia 
ehrysop/dhalma,  D C.,  and  P.  flavicanx,  D C.  Amongst  this  vegetation  I collected 
about  thirty  species  of  spiders,  beetles,  etc.,  including  those  which  are  enumerated 
in  the  Supplementary  Appendix , Preface,  p.  ix. 

Z 


170 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ix. 


of  the  Equator ; followed  by  Sincholagua,  Cotopaxi,  Pasochoa, 
Ruminahui,  the  three  hills  of  Chaupi  on  the  Tiupullo  ridge.  Cor- 
azon,  Atacatzo,  and  Pichincha.1 

The  majority  of  the  dwellings  in  the  city  have  only  a ground- 
floor  with  one  story  above,  and  the  streets  mostly  have  a tame 
appearance  from  the  small  height  of  the  houses  and  want  of 
objects  breaking  the  sky-line.  Any  one  looking  down  upon  these 
five  hundred  acres  of  flat,  featureless  roofs  will  appreciate  the 
artistic  value  of  chimney-pots.  Quito  has  neither  chimneys  nor 
fireplaces.  Its  temperature  is  supposed  to  be  sufficiently  high 
to  dispense  with  artificial  warmth,  and  no  provision  is  made  for 
heating  apartments.  As  a matter  of  fact,  it  is  usually  high 
enough  for  comfort,2  though  fires  would  be  agreeable  when  it  falls 
a degree  or  two  lower  than  usual,  for  small  variations  are  more 
felt  in  this  equable  climate  than  in  places  where  the  range  in 
temperature  is  greater. 

It  is  customary  here,  when  a visitor  takes  off  his  hat  upon 
entering  a room,  to  beg  him  to  put  it  on  again  ; and,  in  the  absence 
of  permission,  leave  is  generally  requested.  This,  it  is  said,  arises 
from  apprehension  that  cold  will  be  taken  by  remaining  uncovered. 
The  same  persons,  upon  going  out  of  doors,  take  off  their  hats  to 
flashes  of  lightning,  no  matter  whether  rain  is  falling;  and,  when 
the  streets  are  busy  and  lightning  is  abundant,  a grotesque  effect 
is  produced  by  these  salutations,  which  seem  to  be  regarded  a duty 
by  well-behaved  persons,  and  are  performed  as  punctiliously  as 
the  homage  which  is  paid  to  religious  processions,  when  they  are 
in  sight. 

Our  hotel  was  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  It  was  kept 
by  a truculent  Corsican,  who  habitually  stuck  his  arms  akimbo 
and  frowned  at  his  guests,  as  if  ready  to  knock  them  down  or  eat 
off  their  heads.  One  day,  at  the  table  d'hote,  he  fought  a pitched 

1 I did  not  see  llliniza  from  the  Panecillo,  and  am  unable  to  say  whether  it  is 
ever  visible  from  it. 

2 For  temperatures  at  Quito,  see  Appendix  E. 


CHAP.  IX. 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 


171 


battle  in  his  own  salle-a-manger.  Conversation  turned  upon 
the  merits  of  the  Napoleons,  and  Giacometti  entertained  strong 
opinions  about  them,  which  did  not  coincide  with  those  of  a young 
Frenchman  who  had  served  in  the  cavalry,  and  taken  part  in  the 
combats  around  Metz.  Presently,  the  gentlemen  called  each  other 
liar  and  coward,  and  then  all  at  once  they  jumped  up  and  charged 
— Giacometti  seizing  a chair  by  its  back  and  raising  it  with  both 
hands  to  brain  his  guest,  who,  however,  eluded  the  blow,  and 
grappling  with  the  maitre  d’ hotel  soon  had  him  sprawling  on  the 
floor,  kicking  and  raving  like  a madman.  Glasses  and  crockery 
flew  about,  and  the  result  would  have  been  very  serious  (for  the 
china)  had  not  two  persons  fallen  upon  the  combatants  and  dragged 
them  apart.  No  sooner  was  the  innkeeper  released  than  he  snatched 
up  a bottle,  and  again  made  towards  the  cuirassier  to  break  it  on 
his  head,  but  they  were  parted,  and  dragged  yelling  from  the  room 
to  finish  the  fray  outside.  The  coarseness  of  their  language  would 
have  done  credit  to  Billingsgate.  I could  not  see  that  it  was  in 
the  least  diminished  by  the  low  pressure  reigning  at  Quito. 

From  my  windows  at  the  hotel  I looked  out  on  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal streets,  and  had  excellent  opportunities  of  viewing  the  little 
peculiarities  of  the  Quitonians.  Here,  as  well  as  in  other  parts  of 

South  America,  it  is  correct  for 
ladies  to  cover  up  their  features 
when  walking  abroad,  but  I 
found  there  was  great  laxity  In 
this  matter,  and  that  the  loiver 
orders  paid  no  attention  to 
such  proprieties.  The  straw 
hats  of  local  manufacture  were 
not  fashionable.  Men  wore  the 
black,  chimney-pot  hat  of  civil- 
ization, and  I have  a story  to 
relate  about  something  which 
befel  a black  hat  in  Quito. 


A LADY  OF  QUITO. 


172 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ix. 


Upon  the  day  following  our  arrival.  His  Excellency  the 
President  of  the  Republic  sent  a very  polite  message  through 
Mr.  Hamilton,  intimating  his  wish  to  see  me.  He  received  us 
without  formality  and  with  much  cordiality,  dismissing  a visitor 
(who  was,  I believe,  a Colonel  in  the  Ecuadorian  Army)  to  the 
farther  end  of  the  apartment.  Out  of  regard  to  his  time,  after 
a little  general  conversation,  we  rose  to  go  ; but  he  insisted  upon 
our  remaining,  and  presently  inquired  if  there  was  anything  he 
could  do  for  me.  I answered  that  there  was.  At  this,  just  a 
shade  of  displeasure  appeared  on  his  mobile  features,  though  he 
kindly  asked.  “In  what  way?”  I said  that  it  would  afford  me 
gratification  if  he  would  permit  his  name  to  be  connected  with 
one  of  the  Great  Andes.  “ With  the  highest  point  of  Chim- 
borazo,” 1 went  on,  “ one  cannot  meddle.  Its  second  peak  has 
not  been  christened,  and  1 ask  permission  to  be  allowed  to 
associate  your  name  with  it.” 

The  President  now  became  interested  in  Chimborazo,  and 
desired  to  know  its  height,  and  upon  hearing  it  expressed  sur- 
prise, saying.  " I should  have  thought  it  was  thirty  thousand 
feet  high,  at  the  leant.”  “ Pardon  me,  your  Excellency,”  I replied, 
one  could  not  have  proposed  to  associate  the  name  of  Veinte- 
milla  with  a peak  thirty  thousand  feet  high.”  He  forgave  this 
impromptu  by  asking  for  an  account  of  the  ascent,  and  Mr. 
Hamilton  engrossed  the  General’s  attention  with  a graphic 
description  of  it.  Presently,  finding  himself  in  want  of  a black- 
board, and  seeing  nothing  more  like  one  than  a black  hat  which 
was  upon  the  table,  he  used  it  to  illustrate  the  spiral  ascent, 
and  excited  my  admiration  by  the  vigour  and  accuracy  with 
which  he  traced  our  route,  as  he  drove  a deep  furrow  through 
the  shining  nap.  to  shew  how  we  sank  in  the  snow. 

While  this  tete-a-tete  was  progressing,  the  President  leaning 
forwards  on  his  elbows,  intently  following  Mr.  Hamilton’s  dis- 
course, I noticed  a movement  at  the  other  end  of  the  room  ; 
and,  glancing  round,  found  that  the  Colonel  was  writhing  in 


CHAP.  IX. 


A STORY  ABOUT  A BLACK  HAT. 


173 


agony.  It  was  his  hat,  and  he  was  on  the  point  of  exploding 
with  suppressed  rage  at  seeing  his  Sunday  head-gear  used  as  a 
black-board  for  ‘ that  wretched  gringo.'  He  glared  and  scowled 
and  seemed  ready  to  spring  forward  and  assassinate  all  three  of 
us.  Mr.  Hamilton  was  quite  unconscious  that  he  was  raising  a 
storm,  but  the  President  noticed  my  glance,  and,  turning  his 
head,  immediately  perceived  the  state  of  affairs.  His  smile  then 
caused  our  Minister  to  look,  and  to  drop  the  hat  instantly. 
With  grim  humour  (which  I fear  made  the  Colonel  go  over  to 
the  Revolutionary  party),  the  President  requested  Mr.  Hamilton 
to  continue,  as  he  was  much  interested  ; and  then  by  a few 
light  touches,  which  fortunately  went  in  the  direction  of  the 
nap,  the  ascent  was  completed. 

His  Excellency  General  Ygnacio  de  Veintemilla  came  into 
power  by  a combination  of  stratagem  and  force,  and  went  out 
fighting.  It  is  difficult  to  procure  information  upon  the  modern 
history  of  this  country  ; and,  in  default  of  a more  authoritative 
source,  I make  the  following  extract  from  the  Catecismo  de  Geo- 
grafia  de  la  llepublica  del  Ecuador , by  Juan  Leon  Mera,  Quito, 
1875,  pp.  180-184. 

“During  the  Presidency  of  Garcia  Moreno,”  lie  says,  “the  nation 
entered  upon  a new  life  ; order  and  economy  were  introduced  into  the 
national  finances,  part  of  the  floating  debt  was  redeemed  ; Brethren  of  the 
Christian  Schools,  Sisters  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  and  Jesuit  Fathers  were 
brought  in  to  direct  public  instruction  ; and  some  important  public  works 
were  begun,  particularly  the  high  road  between  Quito  and  Guayaquil.  At 
the  end  of  1803,  in  the  interior,  a Liberal  Revolution  was  suppressed.  . . 
In  1864  another  Revolution  was  discovered,  and  there  were  revolutionary 
movements  in  Manabi.  . . In  I860  the  Revolutionists  of  Guayaquil  seized 
the  steamer  Guavas.  The  President  made,  personally,  the  necessary 
arrangements,  and  went  after  the  enemy.  Those  ringleaders  who  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  conqueror  were  put  to  death.  . . Peace  being  re- 
established, Jeronimo  Carrion  succeeded  Moreno  as  President”;  he  resigned 
in  1867  and  Javier  Espinosa  was  elected,  but  (in  1868)  “the  effervescence 
of  parties  continued  ; people  talked  openly  of  a Liberal  Revolution,  the 
Conservative  party  saw  their  danger  and  hastened  to  make  one  by  re- 


174 


TRAVELS  A MONO  ST  THE  GEE  AT  ANDES. 


CHAP.  IX. 


nominating  Garcia  Moreno  on  Jan.  10,  1800.  The  President  resigned  the 
same  day,  and  the  Revolution  spread  over  the  whole  Republic.  Meanwhile, 
a Revolution  in  Guayaquil  broke  out  (Mar.  19)  which  was  suppressed. 

In  December  of  the  same  year  a conspiracy  was  discovered  in  Quito,  and 
a new  Revolution  in  Cuenca  was  suppressed.  Since  that  time  order  has 
been  established  and  peace  assured,  and  Ecuador  continues  on  her  path 
of  material  and  moral  progress  under  the  shelter  of  Republican  institutions, 
based  on  the  catholic  principles  which  she  has  determined  to  adopt.” 

This  little  book  concludes  by  stating  that  Garcia  Moreno 
was  assassinated  on  August  6,  1875. 1 lie  was  succeeded  bv  Dr. 
Borrero,  who  recalled  General 
Veintemilla  from  exile,  and 
placed  him  in  command  at 
Guayaquil.  The  General  ad- 
vised his  patron  that  he  ex- 
pected the  occurrence  of  an- 
other Revolution,  and  requested 
the  troops  might  be  sent  from 
Quito.  Having  obtained  them, 
and  denuded  the  Capital  of 
soldiers,  Veintemilla  made  the 
Revolution,  and  ejected  Borrero. 

'Phe  new  President  had  been  in 
power  about  two  years  at  the 
time  of  my  visit,  though  not 
always  in  peaceful  possession. 

At  the  end  of  1877  some  rebels 
from  the  north,  joined  by  a number  of  Quitonians,  compelled 
the  General  to  intrench  himself  in  the  heart  of  the  city. 
Presently  the  insurgents  ran  short  of  ammunition  and  the  others 
sallied  forth  and  defeated  them.  Four  hundred  were  said  to  be 
killed  in  this  affair.  It  was  no  secret  in  1880  that  plots  were 
1 He  was  brutally  murdered  on  the  Grand  Plaza,  in  front  of  the  Government 
Offices.  Moreno  is  admitted  to  have  been  the  strongest  President  of  modern  times. 
He  deserved  well  of  his  country  by  the  construction  of  the  great  road  through  the 
interior,  and  the  introduction  of  compulsory  education. 


GARCIA  MORENO. 


CHAP.  IX. 


PRESIDENTS  OF  THE  REPUBLIC. 


175 


on  foot  to  remove  him,  and  the  conspirators  would  have  endeav- 
oured to  accomplish  this  at  an  earlier  date  if  they  had  seen 
their  way  past  his  three  thousand  breechloaders. 

The  Clericals  lost  no  opportunity  of  perambulating  the  streets 
with  religious  processions,  and  these  were  treated  with  respect. 
The  President  made  counter-demonstrations  with  his  troops,  by 
parading  them  every  day.  I noticed  that  individual  Priests 
walking  about  were  treated  with  scant  courtesy,  and  possibly  on 
this  account  they  appeared  little  in  public.  By  his  opponents. 
General  Veintemilla  was  frequently  termed  the  head  of  the 
irreligious  party,  from  his  want  of  harmony  with  the  Church.1 
Under  his  rule,  newly-arrived  ecclesiastics  were  refused  admittance 
to  Ecuador,2  and  the  Jesuits,  though  not  expelled,  went  more  or 
less  into  hiding,  lie  was  ultimately  ejected  in  July,  1883,  after 
six  or  eight  months  of  revolution,  and  Caamano  was  elected 
President.  I lis  term  of  office  expired  in  1888,  and  now  Sefior 

Antonio  Flores  rules  the  Republic.3 

1 The  Church  property,  though  somewhat  despoiled,  is  still  very  extensive. 
The  Cathedral,  the  Jesuits’  Church,  and  the  Church  of  the  Immaculate  Conception 
are  the  most  important  religious  edifices.  The  latter  was  partly  destroyed  by  tire 
while  I was  at  Quito,  on  the  night  of  March  25,  lKXO  (the  night,  preceding  (food 
Friday).  At  a time  when  the  building  was  crowded,  a candle  on  the  High  Altar 
tumbled  over  and  set  the  surrounding  decorations  in  a blaze.  There  was  a panic 
amongst  the  congregation  and  several  lives  were  lost. 

J This  was  the  fate  of  some  who  arrived  at  Guayaquil  on  the  same  steamer  as  my- 
self. They  were  sent  on  board  again,  having  been  previously  informed  that  there  were 
too  many  of  their  profession  already  in  the  country  and  recommended  to  go  to  Lima. 
They  could  not  have  looked  more  unhappy  if  they  had  been  told  to  go  to  Jericho. 

3 A President  is  practically  Dictator.  See  the  Report  to  Mr.  Blaine  by  Mr. 
Church  from  which  I have  already  quoted.  lie  states  that  the  Congress  is  com- 
posed of  a Senate  and  House  of  Deputies,  and  that  it  assembles  (usually  for  sixty 
days)  every  second  year.  The  executive  power  is  confided  to  the  President,  who  is 
assisted  by  a Council  of  State.  “ The  large  majority  of  the  Council  are  named  by 
the  President,  and  are  his  willing  servants.”  According  to  Article  80  of  the 
Constitution,  the  Council  “ may  confer  extraordinary  powers  ” upon  the  President, 
and  authorize  him  “to  increase  the  army,  dispose  of  the  public  funds,  collect  taxes 
in  advance,  impose  forced  loans,  change  the  capital  of  the  country,  expatriate  or 
imprison  citizens,  etc.” 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ix. 


176 


1 feel  it  unnecessary  to  say  much  respecting  the  manners 
and  customs  of  the  Ecuadorians.  They  are  a promising  people. 
Mr.  Hassaurek  (who  was  for  several  years  United  States  Minister- 
Resident  at  Quito)  says1: — 

The  “custom  of  making  high-sounding  promises  is  universal  among 
Ecuadorians.  . . If  you  make  the  acquaintance  of  one  of  them,  he  will 
overwhelm  you  with  offers  of  his  services.  He  will  beseech  you  to  * count 
him  as  one  of  the  number  of  your  friends’:  he  will  place  his  house,  his 
haciendas,  his  horses  at  your  disposal  ; he  will  ask  you  to  treat  him  con- 
fidentially. and  to  speak  to  him  frankly,  whenever  you  should  need  anything 
that  he  can  supply  ; he  will  protest  his  ardent  desire  to  be  your  friend 
and  to  serve  you  in  every  possible  manner.  . . Should  you  really  apply 
to  them  for  any  of  the  services  so  pompously  proffered,  you  must  expect, 
as  a general  rule,  that  they  will  find  a well-sounding  excuse  for  refusing." 

Mr.  Hassaurek  seems  inclined  to  consider  these  protestations 
as  of  no  greater  value  than  the  words  “ your  very  humble  and 
obedient  servant  ” at  the  end  of  a letter,  and  as  regards  the 
majority  of  them  his  view  is  possibly  correct.  No  one  except  an 
idiot  would  be  disposed  to  treat  them  literally.  The  difficulty 
experienced  by  strangers  is  to  discriminate  between  expressions 
which  are  simply  flowery,  and  those  which  are  meant  to  be  sub- 
stantial. On  various  occasions,  houses,  haciendas,  and  horses,  were 
actually  placed  at  my  disposal,  and  gentlemen  went  out  of  their 
way  to  render  valuable  services  and  unexpected  courtesies  ; and 
it  would  be  exceedingly  ungracious  to  ignore  these  disinterested 
actions,  even  though  there  were  a large  number  of  unredeemed 
pledges,  and  flowers  which  did  not  blossom  into  fruit.  As  regards 
these  it  is  charitable  to  think  with  Mr.  Church  that  “ the  enthusi- 
astic kindness  of  their  hearts  frequently  causes  Ecuadorians  to 

1 See  Four  Years  among  Spanish- Americans,  by  F.  Hassaurek,  New  York,  1807. 
The  descriptions  in  this  work  of  Hie  natives  and  their  wavs  are  generally  accurate. 
In  other  matters,  this  author  is  often  unreliable.  At  p.  119.  he  says,  li  For  leagues 
round  Quito  scorpions  have  never  been  heard  of.  . . Flies,  even,  are  very  rare.  . . 
There  are  no  lizards,  or  even  bugs  or  beetles  in  the  grass  or  on  trees."  These  state- 
ments are  untrue. 


CHAP.  IX. 


ECUADORIAN  BONDS. 


177 


make  promises  small  and  great,  which  afterwards  escape  their 
memory  or  are  beyond  their  ability  to  perform.” 

Amongst  their  other  salient  peculiarities  one  may  point  out 
that  Punctuality,  which  is  esteemed  a virtue  bv  some,  they  seem 
to  consider  a pernicious  vice.  Their  inveterate  habit  of  procras- 
tination. and  use  of  the  word  manana,  has  been  a theme  upon 
which  every  one  has  written  who  has  dealt  with  Ecuador.  Nothing 
is  to  be  done  to-day.  Everything  is  promised  for  to-morrow,  and 
when  the  morrow  arrives  it  will  be  promised  for  maflana  again. 
The  equality  of  the  temperature,  and  the  equality  in  the  length 
of  the  days,  and  the  presumption  that  to-morrow  will  be  like 
to-day,  in  my  opinion,  have  much  to  do  with  this.  “ It  would 
be  good  for  these  people,”  said  Jean-Antoine,  “ to  have  a winter." 
'I'he  Alpine  peasant,  well  acquainted  with  its  inconveniences  and 
hardships,  felt  that  upon  the  whole  they  acted  beneficially  by 
promoting  habits  of  industry  and  forethought. 

It  is  less  possible  to  make  allowances  for  their  general  dis- 
position to  disregard  the  sacredness  of  agreements,  to  repudiate 
contracts,  and  to  advance  ulterior  claims.  Following  these  prac- 
tices, as  a natural  result,  there  is  universal  distrust  and  want  of 
confidence.  They  do  not  think  the  same  as  other  people  about 
these  matters ; or,  to  put  it  in  a different  way,  their  code  of 
honour  is  different  from  ours.  In  many  countries  it  is  considered 
complimentary  to  say  “ Sir,  your  Word  is  as  good  as  your  Bond  ” ; 
but,  for  reasons  which  need  not  be  pointed  out,  one  is  debarred 
from  the  use  of  that  phrase  in  Ecuador.  A foreigner  at  Quito, 
concerned  in  trade,  who  from  many  dealings  with  the  Ecuadorians 
was  able  to  speak  with  some  authority,  said  to  me,  “ I never 
consider  a transaction  terminated  unless  I give  my  customer  a 
whipping.”  It  appears  that,  in  this  country,  the  marks  of  the 
whip  answer  in  the  place  of  a receipt-stamp. 

These  observations  apply  solely  to  the  white  and  to  the  hybrid 
population.  The  Indians  have  the  same  hospitable  instincts  as 
the  Spanish-Americans,  and  I am  inclined  to  characterize  as  their 

2 A 


17M 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ix. 


principal  infirmity  an  extreme  timidity,  heightened  by  the  general, 
and  all-pervading  distrust.  The  Indian  population  in  Quito  bore 
a larger  proportion  to  the  whites  than  in  the  towns  we  had  already 
visited.1  I am  told  that  a number  still  remain  of  pure  descent, 
whose  ancestors  have  never  contracted  alliances  with  the  con- 
querors. On  the  other  hand,  it  is  said  that  such  a thing  as  a 
Spanish  family  of  perfectly  pure  descent  is  not  to  be  found  in 
the  country.  For  the  most  part  the  Indians  lived  in  the  suburbs. 
They  flocked  in  every  morning,  and  kept  daily  market  with  their 
baskets  of  wares  on  the  three  great  plazas.  1 bought  from  them 
the  examples  of  hand-made  lace  that  are  given  on  p.  17!).  which 
competes  successfully  with  importations.  It  was  remarked,  too. 
that  preference  was  shewn  for  the  thread  and  calico  made  at 
Chillo,  and  for  the  coarse  woollens  produced  at  some  local  fac- 
tories. over  similar  English  manufactures,  notwithstanding  that 
the  foreign  goods  could  sometimes  be  obtained  at  lower  rates  than 
the  native  ones. 

Prices  in  Ecuador  generally  ruled  high,  though  there  was  a 
large  difference  in  some  matters  between  what  was  asked  on  the 
coast  and  in  the  interior.  Labour  at  Guayaquil  was  absurdly 
dear,  and  rents  were  extravagant,  while  in  the  interior  both  were 
low.  Foreign  goods  were  expensive  all  over  the  country,  and 
seldom  sold  for  less  than  three  or  four  times  European  prices. 

A nominal  quart  bottle  of  Bass  cost  one  and  eightpenee  to 
two  shillings  at  Guaranda.  and  two  shillings  at  Ambato.  At 
Latacunga  it  had  risen  to  three  shillings  and  fourpence,  and 
that  was  the  price  at  all  places  farther  to  the  north.2  They 
asked  two  shillings  and  threepence  for  a threepenny  cake  of  soap 
at  Ambato.  A piece  of  sponge  which  might  have  been  obtained 
for  less  than  sixpence  in  England  cost  me  a peso  at  Quito,  and 

1 This  continued  as  we  progressed  northwards.  lii  Cotocachi.  Otovalo,  and  t lie 
surrounding  neighbourhood  Indians  largely  outnumbered  the  whites. 

2 Bass’  Ale  was  found  all  over  Ecuador,  and  was  highly  appreciated  there.  At 
t^uito,  an  enterprizing  German  was  endeavouring  to  brew.  Each  of  his  pint  bottles 
yielded  about  a gallon  of  froth  and  a tea-cup  of  beer. 


CHAP.  IX. 


PRICES. 


179 


ECUADORIAN  HAND-MADE  LACE. 


three  shillings  and  fourpence 
Capital  per  pound  for  English 


(ten  reals)  was  the  price  at  the 
salt.  All  glass  and  china  was  very 


180 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  ix. 


dear  there,  partly  through  the  large  amount  of  breakage  in  transit, 
from  bad  packing. 

Native  productions  were  often  by  no  means  low  in  price. 
Meat  (when  it  could  be  got)  was  cheap,  and  generally  ranged 
from  twopence-halfpenny  to  threepence  per  pound.  In  the  north, 
fresh  eggs  could  be  bought  for  four  a penny  ; while  in  Guayaquil, 
and  in  the  more  southern  parts,  one  to  two  pesos  apiece  were 
demanded  for  miserable  chickens.  Sjnrits  of  wine  cost  me  three 
shillings  per  pint  at  Guayaquil,  and  tenpence  at  Quito!  At 
Otovalo,  Cayambe,  and  other  places,  brown  sugar  and  unroasted 
coffee  were  each  tenpence  per  pound,  though  raised  in  the  district. 
Common  raisins  cost  three  shillings,  and  camphor  four  shillings 
per  pound  in  Quito.1 

The  high  prices  of  foreign  commodities  were  attributed  to  ex- 
cessive duties  and  the  expense  of  transit.  Still,  there  appeared  to 
be  a good  margin  left,  and  I doubt  if  any  one  was  satisfied  with 
less  than  a hundred  per  cent,  profit.  Everywhere  there  appeared 
to  be  openings  for  commercial  enterprize,  either  for  retailers  or 
for  wholesale  transactions,  vet  the  country  seemed  to  have  little 
attraction  to  Englishmen,  for  at  the  time  of  my  stay  there  were 
only  three  in  Quito.’  Personally.  I should  not  advise  any  one 
to  embark  a single  shilling  in  Ecuador.  There  are  an  unknown 
quantity  of  earthquakes  and  revolutions  to  be  taken  into  account. 
A man  may  be  rich  in  one  day  and  wrecked  the  next.  These 
possibilities  invest  trade  in  this  region  with  the  excitement  of 
gambling,  and  the  trader  should  also  bear  in  mind  that  the 
repudiation  of  agreements  and  the  non-fulfilment  of  contracts 
will  often  upset  his  calculations  and  blight  his  hopes. 

These  references  to  prices  lead  me  to  conclude  this  chapter 

1 Medicines  and  fancy  goods  were  sold  at  larger  differences  from  European  prices. 
I could  have  sold  my  stock  of  sulphate  of  quinine  for  more  than  its  weight  in  gold. 

- Namely,  Mr.  Hamilton,  British  Minister  - Resident ; Mr.  Jones,  a shopkeeper; 
and  Mr.  Verity,  an  English  mechanic  out  of  employment.  Of  other  foreigners  there 
were  about  twenty- five  French,  a dozen  Hermans,  and  ten  Italians,  Danes  and 
Swedes. 


CHAP.  IX. 


MONEY. 


181 


with  a few  words  upon  the  money  and  the  Banking  institutions 
of  Ecuador.  At  the  time  my  journey  was  made,  money  was 
reckoned  in  Pesos  and  Reals.'  Eight  Reals  made  a Peso.  The 
coins  most  frequently  met  with  were  the  silver  Peso,  silver 
pieces  worth  one  and  two  Reals,  and  half  - Real  pieces,  termed 
Medios.  There  was  a gold  coinage  not  in  circulation,  and  a 
silver  quarter  - Real  which  was  seldom  seen.  In  Guayaquil  (and 
I believe  on  the  coast  generally)  bronze  coins  were  not  current  ; 
though  they  were  in  general  use  in  the  interior,  and  were  said 
to  be  legal  tender  as  far  south  as  Riobamba.  At  this  time  the 
English  Sovereign  was  worth  sixty  Reals,  and  the  Peso,  there- 
fore, was  equal  to  two  Shillings  and  eight  Pence. 

There  were  only  two  banks,  namely,  the  Bank  of  Ecuador 
at  Guayaquil,  and  the  Bank  of  Quito  at  the  Capital.  Both  of 
these  institutions  issued  notes  (down  to  the  value  of  one  Peso), 
which  were  accepted  as  readily  as  silver,  at  their  full  value,  and 
were  very  convenient.2 

I travelled  in  Ecuador  by  means  of  a Letter  of  Credit, 
entitling  me  to  draw  up  to  the  amount  of  a sum  which  was 
deposited  in  a London  Bank  before  the  letter  was  issued.  I 
drew  something  from  the  Bank  of  Ecuador,  and  received  from 
that  institution  a fresh  letter  of  credit  to  the  Bank  of  Quito. 

The  amount  taken  from  the  Bank  of  Ecuador  was  princi- 
pally in  paper.  For  small  payments  it  was  necessary  to  have  a 
considerable  quantity  of  reals  and  medios,  and  these  were  handed 
over  the  counter  in  a closed  bag.  Upon  being  examined,  it 
appeared  that  the  arithmetic  of  the  Bank  differed  from  that 
in  common  use.  Anyhow,  the  money  was  short  by  a serious 

1 I am  informed  that  the  present  manner  of  reckoning  money  is  based  on  the 
hard  or  ten  real  Dollar.  The  old  Peso  is  no  longer  recognized.  This  hard  dollar 
is  called  a Sucre , and  is  of  the  same  nominal  value  as  the  Peruvian  Sot,  and  the 
Chilian  and  Colombian  Dollars. 

a The  notes  of  the  Bank  of  Ecuador  circulated  everywhere.  Those  of  the  Bank 
of  Quito  were  accepted  in  the  interior  generally,  but  were  refused  at  Riobamba 
and  at  places  more  to  the  south. 


182 


TRA  YELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  ix. 


amount ; but,  inasmuch  as  it  was  not  counted  before  being  taken 
away,  it  was  useless  to  make  reclamations. 

When  proceeding  into  the  interior,  these  coins  were  often 
declined ; for  it  appeared  that  the  natives  have  a child  - like 
desire  to  see  the  image  and  superscription,  and  absolutely  refuse 
to  take  payment  in  coin  that  has  got  into  the  condition  of  an 
elderly  British  sixpence.  It  curiously  happened  that  in  about 
one  half  of  the  cash  I received  at  Guayaquil  one  could  not 
distinguish  obverse  from  reverse.  No  one  would  accept  it,  and 
at  Quito  I sold  it  off  as  old  metal,  at  less  than  half  its  nominal 
value,  preferring  to  put  up  with  the  loss  rather  than  be  incom- 
moded any  longer  by  a bag  of  coin  which  would  not  pass.  This 
is  all  I have  to  say  at  present  concerning  the  Bank  of  Ecuador. 

At  Quito  money  was  drawn  when  it  was  required,  and  before 
my  departure  I proposed  to  close  accounts  and  to  take  the 
balance.  The  Bank  Manager  deducted  about  four  pounds  sterling 
for  what  he  was  pleased  to  term  his  ‘advances.'  I was  unable 
to  regard  as  ‘ advances  ’ monies  which  were  paid  on  account  of 
a sum  which  had  been  deposited  several  months  before,  though 
he  assured  me  that  “it  was  their  usual  custom.”  Said  I,  “ your 
custom  is  novel  and  interesting,  and  it  shall  be  mentioned  in  a 
book  that  I intend  to  write  upon  my  journey,  as  it  is  a thing 
that  ought  to  be  known,”  and  supposed  that  this  would  be  tbe 
end  of  the  matter. 

Shortly  afterwards,  however,  the  Bank  Manager  expressed  a 
desire  to  see  me,  and  tendered  the  money  he  had  stopped,  not, 
he  said  with  some  emphasis,  because  1 was  going  to  write  a 
book,  but  because  he  thought  “it  would  be  more  regular”  to 
charge  the  amount  to  the  Bank  of  Ecuador.  I mentally  con- 
trasted “it  is  our  usual  custom”  with  “it  would  be  more 
regular,”  and  only  remarked  that  perhaps  the  Bank  of  Ecuador 
would  not  take  the  same  view ; and  upon  return  to  Guayaquil 
my  surmise  proved  to-  be  correct,  and  I found  that  the  Bank  of 
Ecuador  had  snapped  its  fingers  at  its  brother  in  the  Capital. 


CHAP.  IX. 


CAUSES  AND  RESULTS. 


183 


This  is  all  1 have  to  observe  about  the  Bank  of  Quito, 
except  that  it  is  said  to  be  a flourishing  institution,  paying 
good  dividends.  The  two  Banks  enjoy,  I am  told,  the  privilege 
of  re  - issuing  their  notes  until  they  are  worn  out,  and  refuse 
payment  of  them  when  certain  marks  and  numbers  disappear. 
Though  this  manner  of  earning  a dividend  is  exceedingly  simple 
in  operation  and  certain  in  results,  and  seems  to  be  accepted  by 
the  people  with  perfect  resignation,  it  is  possible  that  it  is  one 
of  the  various  causes  which  produce  the  universal  mistrust  of 
each  other  and  of  everybody  that  is  exhibited  throughout  the 
country. 


BEETLE-WING  EARRING. 


THE  HACIENDA  OF  ANTISANA. 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  ANTISANA. 

We1  left  Quito  for  Antisana  on  March  4,  the  day  following  my 
interview  with  the  President ; and  crossing  the  Puengasi  ridge, 
descended  into  the  basin  of  Chillo.  This  is  another  of  those  large 
(almost  saucer- shaped)  depressions  which  it  seems  to  me  are  more 
appropriately  termed  basins  than  valleys.  It  is,  however,  often 
called  the  xialley  of  Chillo,  after  a small  village  on  its  southern 
edge,  where  there  is  a cotton  factory  belonging  to  the  Aguirre 
family. 2 

1 To  replace  Mr.  Perring,  who  left  me  at.  Quito,  I engaged  a Mr.  Verity,  an 
English  mechanic  who  had  recently  terminated  an  engagement  at  the  Chillo  factory. 
He  continued  with  me  until  the  beginning  of  May,  and  I found  his  acquaintance  with 
the  country  round  Quito  very  useful. 

2 This  is  one  of  the  old,  noble  families  of  Ecuador.  Under  the  Republican 
levelling  they  were  deprived  of  their  title,  Marquis  de  Selvalegre. 


CHAP.  X. 


THE  BASIN  OF  CHILLO. 


185 


This  basin  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  Antisana,  which  is  one 
of  the  loftiest  of  the  Equatorial  Andes,  and  is  amongst  those  that 
extend  over  a great  space  of  ground.  From  east  to  west,  that 
part  of  it  which  is  12,000  feet  above  the  sea  or  higher,  covers 
about  twenty  miles,1  and  from  north  to  south  it  is  not  much  less 
extensive.  On  the  south,  the  basin  is  enclosed  by  Sincholagua  ; 
on  the  west,  by  Pasoclioa  and  the  Puengasi  ridge  ; and  on  the 
north  by  the  southern  end  of  an  important  block  of  mountains 
(of  which  there  is  no  indication  on  my  map)  called  Guamani,2 
that  extends  right  up  to  the  Equator,  and  on  the  west  almost 
touches  the  village  of  Pifo.  The  drainage  of  this  basin,  united 
with  the  Rio  Pita  (coming  from  Cotopaxi),  and  with  the  Rio 
Grande  from  the  basin  of  Machachi,  intersects  the  Plain  of  Tum- 
baco,  and  falls  ultimately  into  the  Rio  de  Guallabamba. 

During  our  passage  across  the  basin  of  Chillo,  I did  not  at 
any  time  get  a glimpse  of  a single  one  of  these  surrounding  mount- 
ains ; and  seldom  saw  more  than  two  or  three  miles  in  any 
direction,  often  not  so  much  as  a mile.  1 did  not  see  a single 
feature  from  which  bearings  for  positions  could  be  obtained,  and 
our  track  as  far  as  the  Hacienda  of  Antisanilla  is  accordingly  laid 
down  from  dead  reckoning.  The  bottom  of  this  basin  is  consider- 
ably lower,  and  its  temperature  is  appreciably  higher  than  that  of 
Quito.® 

Shortly  before  my  departure  from  Europe,  Boussingault  pub- 
lished in  the  Cornptes  Rendus  of  the  French  Academy  of  Sciences 

> On  the  west,  Antisana  may  be  considered  to  extend  as  far  as  the  Hacienda  of 
Pinantura  (10,308  R.  & S.) 

2 Tlie  ramifications  of  Guamani,  so  far  as  I am  aware,  have  never  been  explored. 
Nothing  is  known  of  its  eastern  side.  In  the  month  of  April,  I overlooked  this 
region  from  the  north,  and  found  there  were  no  peaks  in  it  fairly  within  the 
snow-line. 

3 Though  the  land  here  was  more  under  cultivation  than  the  greater  part  of  the 
country  we  had  traversed,  the  inhabitants  were  miserably  off  for  food.  Potato  soup 
was  the  only  article  of  diet  that  could  be  relied  upon.  All  our  provisions  were 
taken  from  Quito. 

2 B 


186 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  TI1E  GEE  A T ANDES,  chap.  x. 


some  Meteorological  observations1  which  were  said  to  have  been 
made  bv  Senor  Carlos  Aguirre,  thirty-three  years  before,  at  the 
Hacienda  of  Antisana.  These  observations  had  a particular  in- 
terest for  me,  for  they  gave  information  respecting  the  weather 
we  were  likely  to  experience  at  great  heights  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Equator.  It  appeared  from  them  that  the 
elevated  farm  where  they  were  made  enjoyed  a very  equable 
temperature,  and  was  abundantly  provided  with  fogs.  Tempera- 
ture was  Highest  in  January  and  lowest  in  August,  and  the 
mean  for  the  year  (1846)  was  found  to  be  5°T8  C.  (equal  to  a 
little  more  than  41°  Faht.).  In  375  days  there  were  recorded 
130  of  fog,  122  rainy,  36  with  snow,  and  only  34  on  which  the 
sky  was  visible.2 

After  crossing  the  llio  Pita,3  the  weather  kept  up  its  character, 
and  black  thunder-clouds  gathered  in  all  directions.  Foreseeing 
the  tempest,  we  hurried  for  shelter  to  a large  farm,  the  Hacienda 
Colegio,  and  just  escaped  a tremendous  downpour.  The  sudden 
irruption  of  a score  of  men  and  beasts  was  treated  as  a matter 
of  course.  We  were  received  with  the  greatest  urbanity,  and  on 
leaving  at  4.45  on  the  following  morning  were  provided  with  a 
guide  as  far  as  the  small  village  of  Pintac  — midway  between  the 

1 Determination  de  la  hauteur  da  rnercure  dans  le  baromhtre  sous  Vequateur ; 
amplitude  cles  variations  diurnes  barometriques  d diverses  stations  dans  le s Cordillcres, 
par  M.  Boussingault.  Comptcs  Rend  us  hebdomadaircs  des  seances  de  VAcad.  des 
Sciences,  tome  lxxxviii.,  No.  34. 

2 Upon  my  return  (througli  a reference  made  by  Dr.  \V.  Reiss)  I found  that  these 
observations  had  also  appeared  in  the  Comples  Rendus  in  1851  (tome  xxxii.)  There 
are  numerous  discrepancies  between  these  papers.  In  the  one  published  in  1879  it  is 
stated  that  the  greatest  observed  diurnal  variation  of  the  barometer  (in  1846)  was 
1-65  mm.,  on  April  37 ; while  in  the  other  paper  there  is  a record  of  169  mm.,  on 
March  13,  1846.  The  mean  annual  temperature  is  said  in  vol.  lxxxviii.  to  have 
been  5°'18  C.,  and  in  vol.  xxxii.  it  is  seen  to  have  been  4°'86  C.  It  is  desirable 
that  some  one  should  point  out  which  of  these  two  papers  is  to  be  considered 
authoritative. 

3 The  Rio  Pita  was  running  very  rapidly  here.  Our  animals  crossed  it  by 
swimming,  and  were  carried  down  about  a (juarter  of  a mile  before  they  came 
to  land. 


CHAP.  X. 


RENCONTRE  WITH  SENOR  REBOLLEDO. 


187 


two  places  passing  over  some  road  that  was  several  degrees  worse 
than  the  Camino  Real  between  Muiiapamba  and  Tambo  Gobierno, 
with  mud  two  to  three  feet  deep.  I had  been  rebuked  in  Quito 
for  objecting  to  that  f Royal  ’ route,  because  our  animals  had  sunk 
halfway  up  their  flanks.  Upon  asking  my  monitor  what  he  con- 
sidered a bad  road,  he  said,  “ A road  is  bad  when  the  beasts  tumble 
iuto  mud -holes  and  vanish  right  out  of  sight.”  This  nearly 
occurred  at  one  place.  Our  narrow  track  (at  this  spot,  a mere 
rut  betweeu  two  walls  of  earth)  divided.  On  the  right  there  was 
a steep  and  greasy  passage,  and  on  the  left  a pool,  eight  or  ten 
feet  across.  My  animal  stopped  on  the  brink,  unwilling  to  pro- 
ceed. Dismounting,  I gave  it  a touch  with  the  whip,  it  went  head 
first  into  the  slough,  and  emerged  on  the  other  side  a miserable 
object,  dripping  with  filth,  which  for  a second  had  risen  above  its 
hindquarters.  This  mud-hole  was  about  four  feet  deep,  and  was 
the  finest  we  discovered  in  Ecuador. 

On  quitting  Pintac,  however,  the  track  became  better,  and 
highly  interesting ; at  some  parts  leading  between  deep,  mossy 
banks  laden  with  semi  - tropical  ferns  and  creepers,  underneath 
branches  and  roots,  and  crossing  sparkling  streams  — rare  things 
in  this  country.  After  passing  the  large  farm  of  Pinantura,1  our 
ardour  was  damped  by  one  of  the  afternoon  deluges,  and  when 
this  ceased  we  found  our  path  ran  roughly  parallel  to  a great 
stream  of  lava,  which  descended  from  the  clouds,  and  spread  out 
into  the  valley  of  the  Isco. 

Whilst  winding  in  and  out  of  the  bends,  amongst  the  arched 
foliage,  in  advance  of  the  others,  1 was  surprised  — not  having  met 
a soul  in  the  course  of  the  day  — to  see  a grave  and  very  unshaven 
man  approaching,  well  mounted  on  a fast  ambler ; by  dress,  as 
well  as  bv  demeanour,  evidently  no  common  wayfarer.  He  drew 
rein,  and  there  was  scarcely  time  to  wonder  who  was  this  dis- 
tinguished stranger  before  another  horseman  cantered  round  the 

1 Iusects  were  abundant  here,  and  several  novelties  were  secured  whilst  on  the 
march.  See  Supp.  App.,  pp.  30  and  60. 


188 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  citap.  x. 


farther  corner,  and  another,  and  then  they  came  hy  twos  and 
threes,  until  I saw  thirty  or  more,  rising  and  falling  over  the 
undulating  ground  like  buoyant  ships  on  a breezy  sea  ; jovial, 
wild-looking  fellows,  picturesquely  attired  in  sombreros  and  with 
legs  encased  in  hairy  buskins,  all  riding  powerful  horses,  and 
sitting  like  men  horn  in  the  saddle.  As  they  came  up,  they 
halted  at  a respectful  distance  behind  their  lord.  I sent  Verity 
forward  to  make  enquiries ; and  then,  after  formally  saluting, 
each  party  went  its  way. 

1 was  not  aware  until  the  train  had  swept  past  that  we  had 
met  Seiior  Rebolledo,  the  owner  of  Antisana,  of  the  farms  of 
Pifiantura,  Antisanilla,  Antisana  and  all  the  intervening  country, 
and  other  large  estates ; the  proprietor  of  a princely  domain, 
unlimited  on  the  Amazonian  side.  If  one  enquired  how  far  it 
extended,  they  answered,  “As  far  as  you  can  go  to  the  East” 
— it  had  no  boundaries  in  that  direction. 

They  had  been  engaged  in  a grand  stock-taking  ; and,  as  the 
cattle  ranged  over  many  miles  and  had  to  be  driven  in  from 
long  distances,  the  work  was  too  much  for  the  usual  hands,  and 
major-domos  had  been  borrowed  from  the  surrounding  properties 
to  assist  in  the  operation.  Judging  from  their  hilarity,  the 
census  was  satisfactory.  Sefior  Rebolledo  heard  somehow  that  we 
were  without  cheese,  and  sent  a quantity  after  us.  A messenger 
came  daily  to  the  Hacienda  of  Antisana  to  learn  our  wants,  and 
I had  only  to  express  a desire  to  have  it  satisfied.  “Tell  me,” 
I said,  when  we  were  better  acquainted,  “ why  do  you  shower 
these  civilities  upon  me  ? ” and  received  no  other  answer  than  “ 1 
took  to  you  from  the  first.” 

In  a short  time  after  passing  this  splendid  troop,  the  track 
dipped  down  to  cross  the  Isco  rivulet,  and  we  arrived  at  the 
Hacienda  Antisanilla  (12,342  feet),  a small  place  built  alongside 
the  lava -stream  of  which  I have  spoken  — rather  densely  popu- 
lated by  savage  dogs,  and  by  herdsmen  who  were  not  so  refined 
in  the  matter  of  cleanliness  as  one  might  have  wished.  I could 


CHAP.  X. 


THE  HACIENDA  OF  ANTIS  AN  A. 


189 


not  trust  myself  upon  the  beds  which  they  politely  vacated  (loose 
straw  strewn  over  wooden  bunks)  and  passed  the  night  by 
preference  on  the  top  of  a four-foot  table. 

The  leugth  of  the  lava-stream  of  Antisanilla  can  hardly  be 
less  than  seven  to  eight  miles.  I clambered  to  the  top,  and  got 
little  reward,  for  the  farther  side,  as  well  as  its  upper  and  lower 
extremities,  were  lost  in  mist.  Its  red  colouring  is  probably 
superficial,  and  the  nucleus  of  the  mass,  I conjecture,  is  a very 
dark  and  compact  lava,  specimens  of  which  were  broken  out  with 
some  labour.1  The  surface  was  extremely  rugged,  and  bore  an 
amazing  quantity  of  the  lichen  Usnea  florida,  Fries. 

On  the  morning  of  March  6 we  left  for  the  Hacienda  of 
Antisana,  led  by  one  of  Senor  Itebolledo’s  people,  who  dismounted 
from  time  to  time,  and  lit  the  grass  to  shew  the  way  to  our 
laggards.  The  Hacienda  was  a barn-like  building,  occupying  one 
side  of  a large  enclosure  for  herding  cattle  ; and  had  remained, 
I was  told,  unaltered  since  the  visit  of  Humboldt.  We  took  up 
quarters  on  the  first  floor,  and  kept  constant  watch  from  its 
little  gallery  for  the  appearance  of  Antisana,  which  had  been 
completely  invisible  during  the  last  few  days.  We  should  not, 
indeed,  have  had  the  slightest  suspicion  that  we  were  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  a mountain  of  the  first  rank,  or  a mountain  of 
any  kind,  if  the  herdsmen  had  not  told  us  the  contrary. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  the  mists  opened  lazily,  and 
revealed  bits  here  and  there,  and  then  drifted  across  and  shut 
them  out.2  These  occasional  glimpses  lasted  only  a few  minutes 

1 “ A black,  sub-vitreous  rock,  containing  small  crystals  of  white  felspar,  whose 
diameter  is  commonly  not  more  than  012o  inch.  The  general  aspect  of  the 
specimen  shews  it  to  be  oue  of  the  darker  varieties  of  andesite,  a member  of  the 
group  of  rocks  that  have  been  variously  named  melaphyre,  pitchstone-porphyrite, 
etc.  . . The  rock  on  the  whole  agrees  best  with  augite-andesite.  Its  specific 
gravity,  determined  by  Mr.  J.  J.  II.  Teall,  is  2'656." — Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney,  Proc. 
Royal  Soc.,  March  13,  1884. 

2 The  view  facing  p.  190  has  been  constructed  from  several  photographs  which  I 
took  at  this  time.  We  did  not  see  so  much  of  the  mountain  at  any  single  moment. 


190 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  x. 


or  seconds,  and  shewed  that  the  mountain  had  not  the  simplicity 
of  form  that  we  had  supposed.  At  such  distances  as  it  had 
previously  been  seen  (25  to  30  miles)  the  minor  details  were 
indistinguishable,  and  the  crest  had  seemed  to  be  a long,  un- 
interrupted, snowy  ridge.  It  now  became  apparent  that  its 
structure  was  more  complicated  ; and,  if  the  mountain  had  been 
viewed  for  the  first  time  from  the  Hacienda,  we  might  have 
been  in  doubt  as  to  the  position  of  the  highest  point.1 

From  these  fragmentary  glimpses,  I made  out  that  the  upper 
3500  feet  of  Antisana  were  almost  absolutely  covered  b}r  snow 
and  glacier,  and  that  on  an  ascent  we  should  not  touch  rock  at 
all.  The  summit  bore  50°  E.  of  X.  (magnetic)  from  the  Hacienda, 
and  the  base  of  the  nearest  glacier  had  almost  exactly  the  same 
bearing.2  The  main  course  of  this  ice-stream  occupied  the  hollow 
in  the  centre  of  the  view,  and  at  its  superior  extremity  was 
fissured  by  large  and  very  long  crevasses  ; higher  still  there  were 
many  compound  fractures,  and  the  summit  of  the  mountain  was 
protected  by  an  enormous  schrund,  forming  a moat,  which  was 
obviously  impassable  on  the  west  and  north.  I proposed  to  make 
for  the  nearest  glacier  ; and,  after  ascending  the  trough  or  hollow, 
to  bear  to  the  left  with  the  view  of  reaching  the  summit  from  the 
south.  Anticipating  that  nothing  would  be  gained  by  waiting.  I 
gave  the  order  to  march. 

We  started  from  the  Hacienda  of  Antisana  at  4.35  a.m.,  on 
March  7,  and  steering  X.E.  (under  the  guidance  of  some  of  the 
herdsmen,  who  had  a perfect  acquaintance  with  the  lower  slopes) 
got  to  the  base  of  the  glacier  (15,295  feet)  at  6.40;  having  lost 
some  time  by  the  disappearance  of  a certain  impetuous  person 
who  could  not  brook  local  leaders.3  Our  animals  were  left  here, 

1 The  true  summit  of  Antisana  lies  underneath  the  asterisk  at  the  top  of  the 
engraving. 

3 This  glacier  is  concealed  bv  clouds  in  the  engraving. 

3 Jean-Antoine  always  endeavoured  to  be  in  front,  and  on  several  occasions 
caused  trouble  by  getting  out  of  touch.  He  was  cured  of  this  habit  by  something 
that  occurred  on  Cayambe. 


ANTISANA,  (19,335  FEET)  SEEN  FROM  THE  HACIENDA  (13,306  FEET), 


CHAP.  X. 


BEATEN  ON  ANTISANA. 


191 


and  we  proceeded  on  foot,  by  moraine  on  the  northern  side 
(right  bank)  of  the  glacier,  nearly  seven  hundred  feet  higher  in 
forty  minutes  ; and  then,  arriving  at  the  termination  of  land, 
dismissed  the  natives,  who  up  to  this  point  had  carried  the 
baggage.  The  elevation  of  this  place  was  15.984  feet  above 
the  sea. 

We  roped  up  at  once,1  and  took  to  the  ice  at  7.30  a.m. 
Only  the  first  part  of  it  was  free  from  snow,  and  it  was  highly 
crevassed  ; but,  as  the  fissures  were  small  at  the  beginning,  we 
were  able  to  keep  a direct  course  for  about  an  hour,  at  this  time 
passing  alongside  the  serrated  ridge  that  is  shewn  on  the  right 
of  the  engraving,2  having  the  upper  part  of  the  mountain  free 
from  cloud.  The  glacier  then  steepened,  and  became  broken  up 
into  seracs  (nearly  invisible  from  below)  which  required  much 
cutting,  and  beating  down  to  consolidate  the  snow-bridges  lead- 
ing from  one  to  another.  Some  of  these  passages  were  very 
complicated,  and  extensive  circuits  had  to  be  made  to  avoid  the 
largest  crevasses.  At  10.30  a.m.  the  mists  caught  us  up,  and 
half  an  hour  later  we  arrived  at  a prodigious  schrund,  not  less 
than  two  hundred  feet  deep  and  some  sixty  feet  wide.  We 
wasted  more  than  two  hours  in  attempts  to  cross  it,  and  I spoilt 
my  eyes  by  vainly  endeavouring  to  see  into  the  invisible.  At 
last  it  was  found  that  we  had  run  into  a cul-de-sac,  and  had  to 
retreat.  At  1.20  p.m.  we  turned  to  descend,3  and  by  5.55  were 
back  at  the  hacienda. 

1 Although  not  necessary  to  <lo  so  at  this  stage,  it  would  have  been  at  a later 
one.  It  conduced  to  regularity  in  the  march. 

To  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the  use  of  the  rope  in  mountaineering 
which  are  set  forth  at  pp.  373-377  of  Scrambles  amongst  the  Alps  may  be  added  that 
it  tends  to  produce  a better  average  rate  of  speed.  The  pace  of  a party  is  deter- 
mined by  that  of  its  slowest  member.  When  tied  up,  the  rapid  or  impetuous  ones 
cannot  rush  away,  and  the  slow-coaches  are  urged  on. 

« The  points  on  this  ridge  were  decorated  with  tufted  cornices.  See  p.  133. 

3 The  place  at  which  we  turned  back  was  17,633  feet  above  the  sea.  Tt  was 
found  afterwards  that  we  had  borue  too  much  to  the  right,  and  had  been  going 
away  from  the  summit. 


192 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  x. 


It  appears  from  a passage  in  the  Comptes  Rendus  (vol.  lxxxviii., 
]).  1241) 1 that  Boussingault  was  affected  on  Antisana  by  snow- 
blindness,  and  I had  a similar  unpleasant  experience  on  the  7th  of 
March.  Though  the  harm  was  done  between  11  a.m.  and  1 p.m. 
(through  uncovering  the  eyes  to  use  my  field-glass),  it  did  not 
manifest  itself  for  some  hours  later.  In  the  course  of  the  even- 
ing I became  unable  to  see,  and  remained  in  that  condition  for 
twenty-four  hours.  Verity  sat  up  through  the  night  handing 
rags  dipped  in  a solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  changing  them 
when  they  grew  hot,  and  this  occurred  in  a few  minutes  after 
each  application. 

The  affection  that  is  termed  ‘ snow-blindness  ’ is  inflammation 
of  the  eyes.  They  become  extraordinarily  sensitive  to  light.  The 
lids  refuse  to  open  ; tears  come  freely,  and  coagulating  round  the 
lashes  glue  the  lids  fast.  To  apply  a lotion  effectively,  the  lids 
must  be  forced  open,  and  the  instant  this  is  done  the  patient  will 
imagine  that  red-hot  needles  are  being  driven  through  the  eyes 
into  the  brain.  The  pain  is  acute,  and  sometimes  makes  strong 
men  howl.2 

Snow-blindness  has  long  been  known  to  Indians  dwelling  in 
the  Andes.  Acosta,  writing  three  centuries  ago,  mentions  a remedy 
that  they  applied,  which  reminds  one  of  the  raw  beefsteaks  used 
by  prize-fighters. 

1 “ Pendant  mon  ascension,  je  fus  atteint  subitement  d’une  ophthalinie  des  plus 
"raves,  caust'-e  par  la  reverberation  des  neiges.  Oblige  de  retourner  a Quito,  je  dus 
renoncer  a continuer  les  observations  que  j’avais  comtnene6es  a la  mfetairie.” 

2 Medical  men  recommend  two  or  three  grains  of  sulphate  of  zinc  to  an  ounce  of 
water.  In  practice,  1 find  that  the  solution  may  be  made  stronger,  with  safety  and 
benefit,  and  that  six,  eight  or  ten  grains  to  the  ounce  is  not  too  much  to  use. 
Although  the  inflammation  may  be  reduced  quickly,  and  the  absolute  inability  to 
see  may  soon  pass  away,  the  eyes  remain  tender  and  weak  for  a long  time  (after  a 
bad  attack,  even  for  weeks  or  months)  and  they  are  more  liable  to  be  affected  than 
before,  unless  extra  precautions  are  taken. 

Puffing  and  cracking  of  the  skin,  and  snow-blindness,  can  be  avoided  by  keeping 
the  face  covered,  and  by  using  tinted  snow-spectacles.  My  usual  appearance  at 
great  elevations  on  this  journey  is  shewn  at  p.  80. 


CHAP.  X. 


SNO  W-  BLINDNESS. 


193 


“Comining,”  lie  says,  “one  night  into  a Tarnbo  or  Inne,  being  much 
afflicted  with  paine  in  mine  eies,  thinking  they  would  fall  out,  the  which 
dooth  commonly  happen  in  those  partes,  for  that  they  passe  thorow  places 
covered  with  snow,  which  is  the  cause  of  this  accident,  being  troubled  with 
this  paine,  and  out  of  patience,  there  came  an  Indian  woman,  which  said  to 
me,  ‘ Father,  lay  this  to  thine  eies,  and  thou  shalt  be  cured.’  It  was  a peece 
of  the  flesh  of  vicunas,  newly  killed  and  all  bloody.  I vsed  this  medicine, 
and  presently  the  paine  ceased,  and  soone  after  went  quite  away.”  1 

On  the  evening  of  March  8 I began  to  recover  sight,2  and 
planned  another  attempt  to  scale  the  misty  mountain.  I cherished 
great  expectations  of  a boundless  view  on  the  eastern  side,  when 
looking  down  upon  the  basin  of  the  Amazons  — the  largest  forest- 
covered  region  in  the  world.  The  only  two  known  ways  out  of 
Ecuador,  through  the  Andes,  to  the  great  South  American  river, 
are  those  which  lead  through  Papallacta3  for  the  Napo  route,  and 
through  Banos  for  the  Pastassa.  These  places  are  about  ninety 
miles  apart,  and  nothing  is  known  of  the  intervening  country,  or 
of  that  more  north  and  south.  The  trails  on  these  routes  pass 
through  forest.  No  distant  vistas  are  possible,  and  our  knowledge 
of  the  region  has  scarcely  advanced  since  it  was  first  made  known, 
shortly  after  the  Spanish  Conquest. 

I conjectured  that  the  atmospheric  conditions  on  Antisana 
strongly  resembled  those  which  prevailed  on  Chimborazo,  where 
it  had  frequently  been  noticed,  from  our  Second  and  Third  Camps, 
that  the  clouds  sank  below  16,000  feet  at  the  approach  of  night, 
and  left  the  higher  regions  clear.  With  the  return  of  day  they 
again  mounted,  or  'were  re  - created,  around  the  summits.  The 
complicated  ice  - navigation  near  the  top  of  Antisana  could  not 

1 Quoted  from  The  Natural  and  Moral  History  of  the  Indies , by  Father  Joseph 
de  Acosta  (reprinted  from  t lie  English  translated  edition  of  Edward  Grimston,  1604, 
for  the  Hakluyt  Society,  1880;  vol.  1,  pp.  287-8). 

2 The  right  eye  remained  painful  for  two  months,  and  did  not  recover  until 
return  to  Europe. 

s Papallacta,  according  to  Dr.  M.  Villavieensio,  means  ‘country  of  potatoes.’ 
It  is  the  name  of  a small  village,  lying,  I am  told,  about  as  far  to  the  north  of  the 
summit  of  Antisana  as  the  Hacienda  of  Antisanilla  lies  to  the  west  of  it. 

2 C 


194 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  crtAP.  x. 


be  effected  in  a fog.  It  was  necessary  to  see  where  we  were  going, 
and  to  arrive  at  this  part  at  an  early  hour,  before  the  mists  had 
risen.  It  was  therefore  arranged  to  camp  out,  at  the  edge  of  the 
glacier,  as  high  as  natives  could  be  taken. 

On  March  !),  at  12.55  p.m.,  we  started  again  ; got  the  caravan 
to  the  foot  of  the  moraine  at  2.40,  and  all  the  baggage  up  to  the 
camping  - place  (15,984  feet)  by  4 p.m.  Our  natives  with  Verity 
then  returned  to  the  hacienda,  leaving  us  at  the  extreme  top  of 
the  moraine1  on  the  right  bank  of  the  glacier,  which  forms  a tail 
or  lower  prolongation  of  the  basin  in  the  centre  of  the  engraving. 
A tierce  hail-storm  occurred  while  we  were  on  the  way,  and  snow 
fell  heavily  afterwards  ; yet  the  temperature  did  not  descend  so 
low  as  the  freezing-point  in  the  night,  and  at  4 a.m.  on  the  10th 
it  stood  at  40o-5  Falit. 

The  weather  seemed  very  doubtful  in  the  morning,  and  we 
delayed  until  daybreak,  to  see  how  it  would  develop.  The  Carrels 
and  I got  away  at  5.38  a.m.,  and  travelled  quickly,  through  deriv- 
ing considerable  benefit  from  the  track  made  on  the  7th,  which 
was  well  seen,  although  several  inches  of  snow  had  recently  fallen. 
At  7.30  a.m.  clouds  formed  around  the  highest  point  of  the  mount- 
ain, and  it  remained  invisible  until  the  afternoon.  At  about  8 
a.m.,  when  approaching  the  summit  ridge,  we  got  into  a labyrinth 
of  crevasses,  and  had  difficulty  in  finding  a way  amongst  them. 
The  chasms  in  the  ice  on  the  upper  part  of  Antisana  are  of  great 

1 Ttie  moraine  on  which  we  encamped  contained  samples  of  the  upper  rocks  of 
Antisana  that  had  come  from  various  heights  and  directions.  All  were  lavas, — 
some  compact  and  others  scoriaceous.  Several  of  the  more  compact  varieties  are 
very  handsome  rocks  when  polished,  in  colour  ranging  from  lavender-grey  to  purple- 
black.  No  rocks  could  be  obtained  higher  than  the  camp.  Such  as  were  exposed 
were  in  inaccessible  positions. 

My  collection  has  been  examined  by  Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney,  and  is  described  by 
him  at  length  in  the  Pi-occcdinys  of  the  Royal  Society,  Mar.  13,  1884.  “ The  rocks 

which  form  the  actual  peak  of  Antisana,”  he  says,  “ are  augite-andesites,  containing 
at  any  rate  occasionally  hypersthene,  and  to  the  same  group  belongs,  though  perhaps 
it  is  slightly  more  basic,  the  rock  of  the  great  lava-stream  which  has  descended 
to  Antisanilla.” 


CHAP.  X. 


ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  ANTISANA. 


195 


size, — some,  as  much  as  half  a mile  long,  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  deep,  and  sixty  to  eighty  feet  across.  One  of  the  larger  ones 
was  crossed  by  a snow-bridge  ; and,  although  tied  widely  apart, 
all  of  us  were  on  the  bridge  at  the  same  time.  Above  this  the 
slopes  steepened,  and  ominous  cracking  sounds  occurred.  All 
three  exclaimed  simultaneously,  “I  fear  an  avalanche."1  But  no 
snow-slip  happened,  and  presently  the  gradients  lessened,  ceased, 
and  the  slopes  fell  away  in  front.2  My  cherished  dream  of  a 
boundless  view  over  the  Amazonian  basin  was  annihilated  in 
that  instant.  Nothing  could  be  seen  through  the  mists  that 
encircled  the  mountain.  The  snow  still  rose  on  our  left,  and  we 
bent  round  to  the  north,  and  after  a few  hundred  yards  it  fell 
away  on  that  side.  Then  we  bore  north-west,  west,  south-west, 
south,  south-east  and  round  to  north  again,  always  keeping  the 
rising  snow  against  the  left  shoulder.  At  last  we  could  perceive 
no  tendency  to  rise  or  fall  in  any  direction,  and  came  upon  a 
nearly  level  plain  of  snow,  lost  in  mist  on  all  sides.  This  was 
the  summit. 

It  was  still  early  in  the  day,  and  we  reposed  upon  the  snow, 
around  the  barometer,  in  air  so  calm  that  it  could  scarcely  be 
said  to  blow  from  any  quarter.  At  10.20  a.m.  the  barometer 


1 I overruled  Jean-Antoine  on  this  occasion.  Pie  wished  to  take  the  slope  trans- 
versely, and  I insisted  upon  going  straight  up,  holding  the  opinion  that  that  course 
was  less  likely  to  disturb  the  equilibrium  of  the  slope  than  by  making  a groove 
across  it. 

These  cracking  sounds  are  produced  by  snow  on  the  lower  parts  of  slopes  slipping 
down  and  being  divided  from  the  snow  above.  Sometimes  the  fissures  that  are 
caused  are  nearly  invisible  (scarcely  the  eighth  of  an  inch  across)  or  they  may  be 
inches  or  feet  wide.  This  depends  upon  the  extent  of  the  slip.  If  the  snow  above 
has  got  good  hold  it  may  remain  immovable,  notwithstanding  the  division  ; but, 
more  usually,  through  being  deprived  of  support,  some  of  it  slips  down  against  the 
part  which  has  already  yielded,  and  the  shock  causes  the  face  of  the  slope  to  peel  off 
in  an  avalanche.  See  the  impressive  narrative  by  Mr.  P.  C.  Gosset  in  the  Appendix 
to  Scrambles  amongst  the  Alps. 

1 We  struck  the  summit-ridge  about  half  an  inch  to  the  right  of  the  asterisk 
on  the  engraving. 


106 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  x. 


(reduced  to  32°  Faht.)  read  15*129  inches,  with  air  temperature 
530,5,  and  at  11.20  a.m.  (red.  to  32°  Faht.),  15*154  inches,  air 
temp.  56°  Faht.  In  the  hour  and  forty  minutes  we  remained 
on  the  top 1 temperature  in  the  shade  ranged  from  44°  to  60° 
Faht.,*  though  the  highest  temperature  observed  at  the  Hacienda 
during  our  stay  there  was  only  49°.  Thus,  the  lowest  tempera- 
ture experienced  on  the  summit  of  Antisana  (44°),  more  than 
19,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  surrounded  by  ice  and 
snow  in  every  direction  for  several  miles,  was  only  5°  less  than 
the  highest  temperature  observed  at  the  farm,  six  thousand  feet 
lower.  Such  an  occurrence  is  unprecedented  in  my  experience. 

Mr.  Ellis,  in  calculating  the  height  of  Antisana,  has  employed, 
at  my  request,  the  means  of  the  readings  at  10.20  a.m.,  and 
11.20  a.m.,  in  conjunction  with  an  11  a.m.  observation  by  Mr. 
Chambers  at  Guayaquil  (mere.  bar.  red.  to  32°  Faht.,  29*912 
inches,  with  air  temp.  80°  Faht.),  and  his  deduced  altitude  for 
the  summit  is  19,335  feet.  If  this  determination  and  that 
subsequently  made  of  Cayambe  are  correct,  Antisana  is  the  third 
in  rank  of  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator.3 


1 We  arrived  on  the  summit  at  10  a.m.,  and  left  it  at  11.40  a.m. 


3 March  10,  1880. 

Summit  of  Antisana  (19,335  ft.) 

. 10.20 

a.m. 

53° -5 

Faht. 

Do. 

do. 

. 10.30 

,, 

50° -0 

11 

Do. 

do. 

. 10.35 

n 

45° -0 

11 

Do. 

do. 

. 10.45 

n 

45° -0 

11 

Do. 

do. 

. 11.15 

n 

50° -0 

,, 

Do. 

do. 

. 11.20 

56° -0 

I used  on  this  occasion  the  thermometer  attached  to  the  mercurial  barometer ; 
a mercurial  maximum  thermometer ; a quick-acting  plain  mercurial  thermometer ; 
and  a spirit  minimum  thermometer.  The  first-named  of  these  was  verified  at  Kew 
Observatory,  and  was  re-eompared  upon  return.  1 give  in  Appendix  A a facsimile 
of  the  Kew  certificate  of  verification. 

At  10  a.m.  on  March  9 at  the  Hacienda  of  Antisana,  temperature  in  the  shade 
was  43°*5  Faht.;  at  10  a.m.  on  March  11  it  was  45°;  and  at  11.40  a.m.,  on  the 
6th,  it  was  48°. 

3 See  my  remarks  on  this  subject  in  Appendix  A.  According  to  La  Condamine 
and  Reiss  & Stiibel,  Antisana  is  the  fourth  in  rank  of  the  Great  Andes  of  the 
Equator  (La  Condamine,  19,313 ; R.  & S.,  18,885  feet). 


CHAP.  X. 


CRATERS  AND  CRE  V ASSES. 


197 


After  we  had  descended  a short  distance  the  clouds  cleared 
sufficiently  to  let  it  be  seen  that  we  had  been  on  the  top,  and 
to  shew  that  the  snowy  portion  of  the  mountain  extends  for  a 
long  distance  to  the  north-east.  As  there  was  still  time  to 
spare,  we  made  a detour,  in  search  of  craters,  to  the  curved 
ridge  which  connects  the  nearer  peaks  of  Antisana  with  the  more 
distant  ones  in  the  engraving ; and  looked  down  upon  some 
exceedingly  precipitous  glacier  on  the  other  side.  We  saw  no 
open  crater,  nor  anything  suggestive  of  one  on  any  part  of 
Antisana  ; though,  on  March  7.  when  arrested  at  the  edge  of  the 
great  crevasse,  several  puffs  of  strongly  sulphurous  vapour  reached 
us.  Dr.  W.  Reiss,  however,  says,1  in  the  Proceedings  of  the  Geo- 
graphical Society  of  Berlin  for  1880,  that  there  is  a crater,  opening 
towards  the  east,  filled  with  a glacier  (from  which  a stream  flows 
that  is  impregnated  with  sulphur),  and  I presume  that  he  must 
refer  to  the  glacier  basin  we  saw  beneath  us. 

An  hour  later  we  were  at  the  bottom  of  the  snow-slopes, 
with  only  about  a mile  of  slightly  descending  and  nearly  flat 
glacier  between  ourselves  and  the  tent, — having  just  discussed 
whether  the  rope  should  be  taken  off,  to  move  with  greater 
freedom,  and  decided  against  it,  as  we  were  so  near  home ; 
striding  along  at  our  best  pace,  about  fifteen  feet  apart,  Louis  in 
front  and  Jean-Antoine  last,  keeping  step  as  we  walked.  In  the 
twinkling  of  an  eye  the  surface  gave  way,  and  I shot  down,  as 
it  were  through  a trap-door,  nearly  pulling  both  men  over ; and 
in  the  next  second  found  myself  dangling  between  two  varnished 
walls  of  glacier,  which  met  seventy  feet  beneath. 

The  voices  of  the  cousins  were  nearly  inaudible,  for  the  hole 
was  no  bigger  than  my  body,  and  they  could  not  venture  to 

1 “ Der  Antisana  umschliefst  einen  ticfen,  nach  Osten  geoffneteu  Krater,  in 
(lessen  Grunde  die  fiber  die  steilen  Wande  herabziehenden  Schnee  und  Eismassen 
sieh  zu  einern  machtigen  Gletscher  ansannneln.  Dem  Gletscher,  dessen  unteres 
Ende  in  4216  in.  Hbhe  liegt,  entspringt  der  sauere,  mil  Schwefel  geschwimgerte 
Bach  der  Quebrada  ‘ Piedra  Azufre dessen  Nameu  selion  auf  eine,  wenn  auch 
noch  so  geringe  vulkauische  Thiitigkeit  hinweist.” 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  x. 


198 

approach  it.  With  slow  and  anxious  pulls  they  hauled  away, 
fearing  that  the  rope  would  be  severed  by  the  glassy  edges  ; but, 
before  mv  head  touched  the  bridge,  more  of  the  brittle  structure 
yielded,  and  I went  down  again.  This  was  repeated  several 
times,  and  then  Jean-Antoine,  seeing  that  their  efforts  must  be 
ineffectual  so  long  as  they  were  on  opposite  sides,  leaped  the 
chasm  : and,  with  united  pulls,  the  two  cousins  landed  me  with 
a jerk,  through  the  frozen  vault  and  its  pendent  icicles,  on  to 
the  surface,  poorer  by  a cap,  though  not  otherwise  the  worse  for 
the  immersion.1  In  twenty  minutes  we  arrived  at  the  camp, 
where  the  others  were  already  in  waiting,  and  by  0.40  p.m.  we 
were  back  at  the  Hacienda,  having  spent  some  time  on  the  way 
in  adding  to  our  collections.2 

The  Hacienda  of  Antisana  is  reputed  to  be  the  highest  farm 
in  Ecuador,  and  it  owes  its  existence  to  the  grazing  that  is 
afforded  by  the  surrounding  slopes.  The  cattle  seemed  to  find 
upon  them  quite  sufficient  pasturage,  though  the  grasses  in  general 
were  not  so  luxuriant  as  upon  Chimborazo,  and  other  places  at 


1 It  is  usually  considered  unnecessary  to  be  tied  up  when  traversing  glacier 
that  is  not  covered  by  snow.  This  incident  shews  the  contrary.  After  my  extrica- 
tion, we  examined  the  crevasse,  and  found  that  it  was  several  hundred  feet  long, 
and  seven  feet  wide  where  I broke  through.  It  differed  from  all  others  that  we 
had  ever  seen  in  being  bridged  by  ice.  This  was  only  an  inch  or  two  thick  in 
the  centre,  though  more  substantial  where  it  sprang  from  the  walls  of  the  crevasse. 
It  could  neither  be  detected  by  any  ‘ droop  ’ on  the  surface  nor  by  ‘ sounding  ’ in 
the  usual  manner.  We  had  crossed  it  three  times  without  being  aware  of  its 
existence.  Its  formation  was  no  doubt  due  to  the  peculiar  meteorological  conditions 
which  prevail  in  the  Andes  of  the  Equator  ; and,  as  there  was  a strong  probability 
that  there  were  more  of  the  same  kind,  we  considered  it  advisable  to  use  a double 
rope  on  subsequent  traverses  of  Ecuadorian  glaciers. 

2 The  ascent  of  Antisana  was  effected  at  a better  rate  than  usual,  owing  to 
the  assistance  derived  from  our  old  track.  Leaving  camp  (15,984  feet)  at  5.38 
a. m.,  at  10  a.m.  we  were  on  the  summit  (19,335  feet).  Including  halts,  this  ascent 
was  therefore  made  at  the  rate  of  767  feet  per  hour.  We  started  from  the  summit 
at  11.40  a.m.,  and  were  back  at  camp  by  2.20  p.  m.  Including  the  loss  of  time 
from  the  detour  and  the  crevasse  incident,  the  descent  was  made  at  the  rate  of 
1340  feet  per  hour. 


CHAP.  X. 


FLORA  OF  ANTISANA. 


199 


greater  heights  than  thirteen  thousand  feet.  The  flora  here, 
whilst  interesting  from  its  characteristic  Andean  species,  had  few 
other  attractions, — yet  the  flowers  of  Gentiana  foliosa,  H.B.K., 
were  somewhat  showy  ; the  downy  heads  of  Oulcitium  were  not 
without  a certain  grace  ; and  not  far  from  the  Hacienda,  at  about 
14,000  feet,  we  found  the  elegant  fern  Polypodium  heteromorphum, 
Hook.  & Grew  This  was,  with  one  exception,  the  highest 
position  at  which  we  obtained  ferns  in  Ecuador.  The  examples 
of  the  Orders  which  are  mentioned  in  the  footnote,1  marked  by 
asterisks,  were  found  on  the  western  slopes  of  Antisana  at  greater 
elevations  than  the  same  species  were  noticed  elsewhere.2 

' The  following  is  a list  of  our  gatherings  upon  Antisana.  Lichens : — Lecidea 
sp.,  Autisanilla  (12,342);  Newropogon  melaxanthus,  NyL,  at  our  camp  (16,000); 
Stcreoeaulon  sp.,  Autisanilla  (12,342);  Stcreocaulon  sp.  at  our  camp  (16,000);  Uxnca 
florida,  Fries,  Antisanilla  (12,342).  Fungi: — Omphalia  umbellifera,  Fr.  (13,000); 
Psilocybe  sp.  (13,000),  both  from  the  slopes  below  the  Hacienda  of  Antisana. 
Lyeopodiacea i Lycopodium  Saururus,  L.  (15-16,000).  Filices  : — Polypodium 
vulgare,  L.,  Antisanilla  (12,342),  and  P.  rigidum , Hook.  A Grev.,  Antisanilla 
(12,342),  both  growing  among  hollows  on  the  margin  of  the  lava-stream  close  to 
the  Hacienda  ; P.  heteromorphum,  Hook.  A Grev.,  on  the  slopes  above  the 
Hacienda  of  Antisana  (14,000).  Gramme* : — Deyeuxia  recta,  Bonpl.  (13,300- 
15.000)  ; Deyeuxia  sp.  (14,000)  ; Luzula  alopecurus,  Desv.  (14,000)  ; Poa  sp. 

(14.000) ;  Fcstuca  mollis,  Kth.  (14,000).  Gentianaceaj  : — Gentiana  foliosa,  H.B.K. 
(14-15,000);  G.  rupicola,  1I.B.K.  (14-15,000);  G.  sedifolia,  H.B.K.  (14,500). 
Ericaceae:  — Pernettia  Pentlandii,  DC.  (14-14,500);  *Vaccinium  penceoides,  II.B.K. 
(15-16,000).  Composite:  — * Achyrophorus,  near  setosus,  IVedd.,  at  our  camp 

(16.000) ;  Baecharis  alpina , II.B.K.  (14-  14,500);  Culcitium  adsccndens,  Kth. 
(14-15,000);  C.  nivale,  Kth.  (14-15,000);  * C.  reflexum,  Kth.  (15-16,000);  * Lori- 
caria  ferruginea,  Pers.  (15-16,000)  ; Perezia  pungens,  Less.  (14,500) ; Werneria  sp. 

(14.500) ;  Werneria  densa,  Benth.  (15-16.000).  Leguminos*  : — Astragalus  gernini- 
tiorus,  II.B.K.  (14—15,000);  * Lupinus  microphyllus,  Desv.  (14,500);  I/upinus  sp. 
(14-15,000);  * L.  nubigenus,  II.  A B.  (15,000).  Geraniaceae : — Geranium  sp. 

(14.500) .  Malvaceae  : — Malvastrum  phyllanthos,  Asa  Gray  (15-15,500):  * M.  Pi- 

chinchense,  Asa  Gray  (15-16,000);  Malvastrum  sp.  (15,000).  Carophyllaceae : — 
* Cerastium  sp.  (14-15,000).  Crueiferas : — Draba  obovata,  Benth.  (14-15,000);  * I), 
arctioides,  II.B.K.  (15-16,000);  Draba  sp.  (15-16,000);  I).  imbricata,  C.  A.  Mey. 
(15-16,000).  Ranunculaceae  : — Ranunculus  Peruvianas,  Pers.  (14—15,000). 

2 For  fuel  at  our  camp  on  Antisana  (and  at  the  higher  ones  generally)  we 
depended  principally  upon  Lycopodium  Saururus,  L.,  and  Loricaria  ferruginea , 


200 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  x. 


The  Beetles  that  were  obtained  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Hacienda  were  mostly  new  to  us  at  the  time.1  Diptera  were 
represented  by  about  half  a dozen  species,  and  several  hymenop- 
terous  insects  (including  Ichneumon  idle)  attained  their  greatest 
altitude  here.  For  the  reception  of  a slender  Bug  that  we  cap- 
tured, Mr.  Distant  has  erected  the  genus  Neomiris.  Of  Butterflies 

we  saw  only  four  species,  three  of 
which  ( Lymanopotla  tener,  Hew., 
Lyccena  hoa,  Druce,  and  Pieris  xan- 
tliodice,  Lucas)  are  amongst  the 
most  common  and  most  widely 
distributed  in  Ecuador ; but  the 
fourth,  a small  Colins  taken  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  our  camp, 
had  not  been  seen  since  we  left 
Chimborazo.*  As  we  sat  in  the 
quaint  little  gallery  of  the  Haci- 
enda after  our  return  from  Anti- 
sana,  our  poor,  old,  battered  lantern 
again  proved  our  best  nocturnal 
collector,  and  attracted  a numerous  company  of  Moths,  from  which 
I secured  seven  species  in  about  as  many  minutes.3 

On  the  next  day  we  turned  our  attention  to  Condors.  In 

Pers.  Drabas  and  Wernerias  were  abundant  and  came  in  usefully.  It  was, 
however,  always  difficult  to  obtain  fuel,  and  a large  part  of  the  time  of  my  assistants 
was  usually  occupied  in  collecting  the  quantity  necessary  for  cooking.  At  the 
higher  camps,  we  could  never  afford  to  have  fires  for  the  sake  of  warmth. 

1 Seven  species  were  new  to  science,  and  are  described  in  the  Supplementary 
Appendix , namely,  Pterostichus  ( Agraphoderus ) Antisance , Bates  (p.  10)  ; P.  (Agraph.) 
liades,  Bates  (p.  11) ; Colpodes  rnegacephalus,  Bates  (p.  13)  ; C.  alticola,  Bates  (p.  21)  ; 
Bembidium  fulvocincturn,  Bates  (p.  22) ; Clavipalpns  Antisance,  Bates  (p.  27)  ; and 
Hilipus  longicollis,  Olliff  (p.  75).  Several  of  these  were  discovered  by  my  assistants, 
who  worked  zealously  while  I was  incapacitated. 

2 Described  as  Colias  alticola  by  Messrs.  Godman  & Salvin,  Supp.  App.,  p.  107. 

3 Three  belonging  to  the  genera  Cidaria,  Dariza,  and  Scordylia , and  four  other 
very  distinct  species  which  have  not  yet  been  identified. 


OUR  BEST  NOCTURNAL  COLLECTOR. 


CHAP.  X. 


FLIGHTS  OF  THE  IMAGINATION. 


201 


Aspects  of  Nature,  vol.  2,  p.  4,  Humboldt  says  this  bird  often 
soared  over  his  head  “above  all  the  summits  of  the  Andes”  ; and 
at  p.  41  of  the  same  volume  he  observes,  “ It  is  a remarkable 
physiological  phenomenon,  that  the  same  bird,  which  can  fly  in 
circles  for  hours  in  regions  of  the  atmosphere  so  rarefied,  should 
sometimes  suddenly  descend,  as  on  the  western  declivity  of  the 
Volcano  of  Pichincha,  to  the  sea-shore,  thus  passing  rapidly 
through  all  gradations  of  climate.”  Mr.  James  Orton,  late  Pro- 
fessor of  Natural  History  in  Vassar  College,  improves  upon  this, 
and  states  that  the  Condor  “ can  dart  in  an  instant  from  the  dome 
of  Chimborazo  to  the  sultry  coast  of  the  Pacific.”  The  shores  of 
that  Ocean  are  nowhere  less  than  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
from  the  mountain  ; and  if  my  schoolboy  readers  will  multiply 
sixty  by  sixty,  and  then  by  one  hundred  and  twenty,  they  will 
find  the  rate  (in  miles)  per  hour,  at  which  the  Condor  can  fly, 
according  to  Professor  Orton.1  They  will  probably  wonder  at 
the  keenness  of  eyesight  which  enabled  him  to  trace  this  light- 
ning rapidity  ; and  will  be  disposed  to  enquire  how  he  was 
advised  of  the  arrival  on  the  shores  of  that  sultry  coast  of 
the  particular  Condor  which  started  from  the  frigid  dome.  As 
these  flights  of  the  imagination  may  lead  some  to  suppose  that 
the  Condor  has  a very  great  range  in  altitude  on  the  Equator  ; 
that  it  habitually  soars  at  extraordinary  elevations  ; and  that  it 
flies  with  immense  rapidity,  I venture  to  give  some  of  our  own 
observations. 

When  we  were  upon  Chimborazo,  I was,  at  first,  a little  appre- 


Between  Antisanilla  and  Pifiantura  I also  captured  a species  of  Opisogonia ; and, 
in  the  lower  part  of  the  Chillo  basin,  an  Agrotis , Eupyra  regalis,  Her.  Schf.  (the 
most  handsome  moth  I saw  in  the  interior  of  Ecuador),  Sangala  necyria,  Feld.  & R., 
and  Scotosia  dubiferata , Walk. 

1 Professor  Orton,  along  with  four  others,  travelled  from  Guayaquil  to  Quito  in 
1867,  and  thence  down  the  Amazons  to  Para  ; and  subsequently  wrote  a book 
entitled  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon.  This  journey  “ was  made  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Smithsonian  Institution.”  The  quotation  is  from  p.  106  of  the  English 
edition,  published  by  S.  Low,  Son  and  Marston,  1870. 


202 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  x. 


hensive  that  we  might  attract  the  attention  of  these  formidable 
birds.  They  were  numerous  round  about  the  mountain.  When 
the  atmosphere  permitted  us  to  look  below,  we  commonly  saw  a 
dozen  on  the  wing  at  the  same  time.  They  were  seen  daily,  and 
it  was  their  ordinary  and  everyday  habit  to  sail  to  and  fro  at  a 
moderate  elevation  above  the  ground  they  were  watching,  where 
there  were  cattle  and  sheep.  On  no  single  occasion  did  we  see  a 
Condor  rise  so  high  as  the  Second  Camp  (16,GG0  feet),  nor,  I think, 
approach  within  a thousand  feet  of  its  level. 

Condors  were  very  numerous  upon  the  lower  slopes  of  Anfi- 
sana.  A score  or  more  continually  hovered  over  the  pastures, 
keeping  ordinarily  about  1500  feet  from  the  ground — an  elevation 
which  they  have  no  doubt  learned  by  experience  is  sufficient  for 
practical  purposes.  They  did  not  ‘ dart  ’ upwards  or  downwards, 
but  rose  rather  slowly  ; and,  when  they  had  attained  their  usual 
height,  maintained  themselves  at  it  by  nearly  imperceptible  move- 
ments of  the  wings,  and  floated,  balancing  themselves  in  the  air, 
turning  to  this  or  that  side,  gradually  descending  ; and  then,  by 
a few  leisurely  strokes,  regained  their  former  level ; continuing  to 
float  and  circle  in  this  manner  by  the  hour  together. 

We  did  not  either  when  upon  or  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
summits  of  Chimborazo  and  Antisana,  or  near  the  summits  of  any 
other  mountain,  see  a Condor  in  our  vicinity  upon  a single  occa- 
sion, and  I think  never  observed  one  so  high  as  16,000  feet.  I 
believe  Humboldt  to  have  been  mistaken  in  supposing  that  he 
often  saw  the  bird  soaring  above  all  the  summits  of  the  Andes. 
Any  one,  however  skilled  in  judging  distances,  may  be  deceived 
in  such  a matter.  In  the  accompanying  diagram,  let  H stand  for 
Hacienda ; S for  the  summit  of  Antisana  ; the  line  WR  indicate  the 
level  of  our  camp  ; and  A,  B,  a pair  of  Condors,  hovering  over  the 
lower  slopes.  An  observer  at  H might  naturally  suppose  the  birds 
to  be  higher  than  the  summit,  though  to  another  at  W it  would 
be  apparent  that  they  were  below  his  level.  While  there  may, 
possiblv,  be  occasions  when  the  Equatorial  Condor  departs  from  its 


CHAP.  X. 


RANGE  OF  THE  CONDOR. 


203 


usual  routine,  I think  such  instances  must  be  rare  ; and  that  the 
upper  limit  of  its  habitual  range  cannot  be  higher  than  16,000  feet. 


Though  some  of  these  birds  were  in  captivity  at  Quito,  we 
saw  none  at  liberty  so  low  as  9000  feet,  and  were  unable  to  learn 
that  they  ever  visited  the  sea.  Mr.  J.  S.  Wilson,  who  had  lived 
for  twenty-five  years  in  Ecuador,  and  passed  the  greater  part 
of  that  time  upon  the  coast,  told  me  that  he  had  never  known 
one  to  come  down  to  the  plains,  or  heard  of  such  an  occurrence. 
I imagine,  therefore,  that  the  Equatorial  Condor  very  seldom 
descends  to  the  Pacific.  It  seems,  indeed,  probable  that  it  never 
does  so.  It  is  said  that  those  which  are  despatched  (in  confine- 
ment)  from  the  interior  to  the  coast  invariably  die  before  reaching 
Guayaquil.1  Yet  it  is  an  undoubted  fact  that  Condors  frequent 
the  sea-sliore  in  more  southern  parts  of  South  America.  Whether 
the  same  individual  birds  also  soar  to  great  heights,  and  are  speci- 
fically the  same  as  the  Condor  of  the  Equator,  are  questions  that 
I am  unable  to  answer.  If  there  are  no  marked  points  of  differ- 
ence between  them,  it  will  be  ascertained  that  this  species  has  a 
range  in  altitude  of  about  16,000  feet  (not  in  any  one  country, 
but  spread  over  thirty  degrees  of  latitude)  and  this  is  perhaps  the 
greatest  that  is  possessed  by  any  bird. 

On  the  few  occasions  upon  which  we  were  approached  by 
Condors  in  a menacing  manner,  we  became  aware  of  their  presence 

1 This  happened  to  some  which  were  sent  by  Baron  Gabriel  de  Gunzburg  from 
Quito  to  Guayaquil,  while  I was  in  Ecuador. 


204 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  x. 


from  their  shadows  being  cast  upon  us  by  a nearly  vertical  sun. 
They  never  came  near  when  the  sun  was  concealed,  and  if  they 
hovered  in  our  neighbourhood  they  always  kept  the  sun  at  their 
backs.  This  cannot  be  their  invariable  habit  in  a country  where 
the  sun  is  so  often  invisible,  though  possibly  it  is  adopted  when- 
ever there  is  a chance,  and  the  motive  is  obvious.  The  objects 
to  be  attacked  are  dazzled  by  the  sun’s  rays,  while  the  assailants 
are  able  to  examine  their  brilliantly-lighted,  intended  victims  at 
their  ease,  whose  eyes  are  picked  out  at  the  earliest  opportunity, 
and  are  thus  rendered  completely  defenceless.  The  herdsmen  on 
Antisana  had  lifelong  familiarity  with  the  Condor,  and  did  not 
stand  in  awe  of  it.  They  told  me  that  the  bird  was  particularly 
addicted  to  old  horse  and  young  calf,  and  might,  after  feeding, 
be  easily  caught  with  the  lasso.  Senor  Rebolledo  said  that  it 
would  be  a mercy  to  slaughter  some  of  his  worn-out  steeds,  and 
one  was  killed  and  laid  out  in  order  that  his  people  might 
display  their  dexterity. 

We  all  descended  to  Antisanilla  on  the  afternoon  of  March 
11,  and  the  baggage  went  on  the  next  morning  to  Pinantura;1 
while  I was  taken  to  a neighbouring  valley  to  see  how  wild 
cattle  were  captured,  and  after  witnessing  some  clever  horseman- 
ship wTas  led  a mile  or  two  towards  the  south.  The  slaughtered 
horse  had  been  laid  out  on  high  ground,  in  a hollow  surrounded 
by  little  knolls  ; and  watchers,  posted  in  concealment,  counted 
the  company  as  it  assembled.  A scout  stopped  us  while  still  a 
mile  away,  saying  that  the  feast  had  scarcely  commenced,  although 
eighteen  Condors  had  arrived,  and  he  kept  us  lying  for  several 

i The  following  times  were  occupied  between  the  places  which  have  been  named 
in  this  chapter.  Quito  to  top  of  Puengasi  ridge,  75  min. ; thence  to  the  commence- 
ment of  the  flat  ground  on  the  other  side,  1 h.  55  min.  There  was  a good  made 
road  so  far.  Hacienda  Colegio  to  Pintac,  4 hours  ; Pintac  to  Hacienda  of  Pinantura, 
2 li.  25  min.  ; Pinantura  to  Hacienda  of  Antisanilla,  4h.  15  min.  ; Antisanilla  to 
Hacienda  of  Antisana,  3 li.  5 min.  (without  the  baggage  train).  Hacienda  of 
Antisana  to  Antisanilla,  2 h.  55  min.  (with  the  baggage).  Antisanilla  to  Pinantura, 
2 h.  30  min.  (without  the  baggage). 


THEY  DASHED  IN  AMONCST  THEM  AND  THREW  THEIR  LASSOS. 


CHAP.  X. 


HOW  TO  CATCH  A CONDOR. 


205 


hours  hidden  in  the  grass,  while  this  great,  solemn  assembly  sat 
watching  the  dead  horse.  Our  time  being  exhausted,  we  stalked 
lip  to  within  two  hundred  yards,  and  then  mounted,  without 
uttering  a wTord,  expecting  every  moment  that  we  should  be 
perceived.  But  the  birds  sat  still  as  mutes,  out  of  sight  in  the 
hollow  ; and  we  crept  nearer,  with  the  herdsmen  leading,  and  on 
the  signal  being  given  they  dashed  in  and  threw  their  lassos, 
and  all  the  eighteen  Condors  flew  away,1 — scared  and  hurriedly, 
yet  without  the  lightning  rapidity  that  is  attributed  to  them  by 
Professor  Orton. 

From  Pinantura,  I despatched  the  baggage  to  Quito  in  charge 
of  the  Carrels,  and  paid  a visit  to  the  cotton  factory  at  Chillo, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Verity.2  The  mill  was  193  feet  long,  in 
the  form  of  the  letter  H, — the  legs  being  one  storey  and  the 
line  joining  them  two  storeys  high.  The  interior  was  made  up 
of  four  large  rooms  (card-room,  spinning-room,  weaving-room, 
etc.),  each  about  80  feet  long  and  24  feet  wTide.  They  were 
ginning  their  own  cotton  with  gins  made  by  Platt  of  Oldham, 
and  producing  calico  and  thread.  Sixty  hands  were  employed  — 
entirely  Indians  — - working  sixty  hours  per  wreek.  Each  family 
had  a house  rent-free,  with  about  an  acre  and  a half  of  ground 
attached,  and  all  kept  pigs  and  fowls,  while  some  had  as  many 
as  six  or  eight  cows  and  oxen.  The  whole  of  the  machinery 
came  from  Lancashire,  and  was  being  worked  by  a turbine.  This 

1 This  business  was  spoiled  by  want  of  attention  to  orders.  The  horse  should 
have  been  killed  on  the  11th,  and  the  job  was  put  off  until  manana.  We  found 
that  the  Condors  had  hardly  eaten  anything. 

a I met  Senor  Carlos  Aguirre  at  Chillo  ; and,  congratulating  him  upon  his 
valuable  observations  in  the  Comptes  Rendus , expressed  surprise  that  he  should 
have  isolated  himself  for  so  long  a time,  at  such  a dismal  place,  in  the  service  of 
science.  Senor  Aguirre  informed  me  that  the  observations  were  not  made  by 
himself,  but  by  a young  Ecuadorian  whom  he  deputed  to  do  the  work. 

Some  weeks  later,  I paid  another  visit  to  Chillo,  and  was  again  unable  to  fix 
its  position.  It  should  come  somewhere  on  my  map  between  the  words  Pasochoa 
and  Hac.  Colegio.  The  height  of  Chillo,  according  to  Humboldt,  is  8576  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


20G 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TIIE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  x. 


mill  was  ill  constant  and  profitable  employment,  scarcely  able 
to  keep  pace  with,  the  demand  for  its  productions.  The  yarn 
was  all  bought  up  direct  by  Indians  and  woven  by  them  into 
ponchos.  The  excellent  order  and  cleanliness  of  the  establish- 
ment, with  the  contented  aspect  of  the  people,  were  a most 
agreeable  surprise,  and  said  much  for  its  Manager,  Mr.  Daniel 
Slater,  who  was  the  only  foreigner  employed. 

Daylight  had  long  departed  when  we  set  out  to  recross  the 
Puengasi  ridge  to  the  Capital.  It  was  near  midnight  when  we 
arrived  at  the  hotel,  and  except  for  Verity's  familiarity  with  the 
place  there  would  have  been  some  difficulty  in  finding  it,  for 
Quito  is  lighted  very  economically.  The  law  is  that  every 
householder  must  put  a lighted  candle  at  dusk  in  front  of  his 
dwelling.  The  law  does  not  concern  itself  with  the  length  of  the 
candle,  and  householders  think  that  the  fag-ends  of  tallow  dips 
are  best  suited  for  the  purpose.  Hence,  at  an  early  hour  of  the 
night,  the  city  is  in  total  darkness. 


SNOW-SPECTACLES. 


PICHINCHA,  FROM  MACHACHI. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

UPON  AN  ASCENT  OF  PICHINCHA. 

On  my  return  to  Quito  I found  .Jean-Antoinc  vas  indisposed. 
Externally,  there  did  not  seem  to  be  much  the  matter  with  him. 
He  said  that  his  complaint  was  an  internal  one,  and  that  his  blood 
had  been  turned  sour  by  the  crevasse  episode.  This  dangerous 
malady,  however,  yielded  to  the  benign  influence  of  the  universal 
remedy  (see  p.  50),  and  in  a short  time  he  declared  himself  fit  for 
active  service. 

There  was  something  else,  too,  calculated  to  sour  the  temper. 
The  stench  of  the  putrid  ox-cheek  pervaded  everything,  and  each 
day  the  Carrels  took  a load  of  foul  tins  down  to  the  Machangara 
(a  rivulet  that  runs  through  Quito)  to  try  to  rid  them  of  the 
abominable  odour  by  scouring  them  bright  with  sand  ; a very 
mean  and  menial  occupation  — almost  as  bad  as  carrying  home 


208 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xi. 


washing  for  a Chinaman,  which  on  the  Pacific  Coast  is  considered 
the  lowest  depth  of  degradation  that  can  befall  a human  being. 

Before  proceeding  to  the  north,  we  made  an  excursion  to  the 
top  of  Pichincha.  So  far  as  extent  is  concerned,  this  is  an  im- 
portant mountain.  The  part  of  it  that  is  10,000  or  more  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  is  quite  fifteen  miles  from  North  to 
South,  and  its  summit  rises  G000  feet  above  Quito.  Yet  there 
is  little  about  it  of  a thoroughly  mountainous  character.  It  is 
composed  principally  of  undulating,  grassy  slopes,  over  which  one 
can  ride  higher  than  14,000  feet.  It  is  impossible  to  feel  great 
respect  for  an  eminence  that  can  be  climbed  on  donkey  - back, 
and  the  truth  is  that  the  ascent  of  Pichincha  is  scarcely  more 
arduous  than  that  of  the  Eggischorn. 

We  left  Quito  on  the  21st  of  March,  at  7.55  a.m.,  with  a team 
of  seven  animals  and  three  arrieros  ; passed  to  the  west  of  the 
Panecillo  (by  the  road  shewn  on  the  Plan)  through  the  village  of 
Magdalena,  and  (leaving  Chillogallo  on  the  left ')  commenced  to 
mount  the  slopes  of  Pichincha  ; going  at  first  over  a small  col, 
and  descending  on  the  village  of  Lloa,  then  ascending  through 
meadows,  followed  by  a considerable  stretch  of  wood.  In  an 
unctuous  rut  between  walls  of  earth,  one  of  our  mules  floundered 
and  fell  with  its  legs  doubled  underneath  ; and  our  chief  arriero 
— a Chillogallo  man — after  a few  feeble  efforts,  would  have  aban- 
doned it  on  the  spot.  Then  we  experienced  the  usual  afternoon 
shower-bath,  and,  getting  into  the  clouds,  became  perplexed  as  to 
our  whereabouts.  Camped  at  4 p.m.1 2  in  sleet  and  drizzle,  unable 
to  see  a hundred  yards  in  any  direction,  and  sent  the  animals  and 
natives  back  to  Lloa. 

At  night,  when  the  atmosphere  cleared,  it  was  seen  that  we 
had  camped  about  midway  between  the  two  peaks  of  Pichincha, 

1 The  village  of  Chillogallo  is  principally  occupied  by  arrieros.  It  is  seldom 
possible  to  obtain  horses  or  mules  in  Quito  itself.  If  wanted,  they  have  to  be 
procured  from  Chillogallo. 

2 The  height  of  this  camp  was  14.00“  feet  above  the  sea. 


THE  SECOND  CAMP  ON  PICHINCHA  (14,992  FEET), 


ciiap.  xi. 


SECOND  CAMP  ON  PICH1NCHA. 


209 


which  we  conjectured  were  those  that  are  called  Guagua  and 
Rucu.1  Although  there  are  numerous  allusions  in  the  works  of 
previous  writers  to  these  summits  and  to  the  craters  of  Pichincha, 
and  we  had  met  various  persons  in  Quito  who  claimed  to  have 
visited  the  craters  (for  it  was  said  there  were  several),  I was  unable 
to  tell  from  anything  that  had  been  said  or  heard  what  was  the 
relative  position  of  the  summits,2  or  where  the  craters  were  located  ; 
and  when  these  two  peaks  made  their  appearance  we  were  not 
certain  which  of  the  two  was  the  higher.  The  right  hand  or 
eastern  one  appeared  to  be  the  lower  and  the  easier  to  ascend, 
and  I sent  Louis  to  tackle  it,  while  Jean-Antoine  and  Verity 
went  to  pay  their  attentions  to  the  other. 

During  their  absence  I mounted  to  the  depression  in  the  ridge 
connecting  the  two  peaks,  or  ensillada  as  it  is  termed,3  and  found 
that  on  the  other  side  it  descended  very  steeply.  So  far  as  mist 
would  permit  one  to  see,  this  was  the  head  of  an  ordinary  mount- 
ain valley.  I awaited  the  return  of  my  people,  and,  as  their 
reports  agreed  that  the  western  peak  was  the  higher,  shifted  our 
camp  in  the  afternoon  up  to  a sort  of  cave  that  had  been  dis- 
covered by  Jean-Antoine,4  a convenient  place  (where  some  cavities 
in  the  lava  were  protected  by  overhanging  masses)  roomy  enough 
to  let  each  one  select  a nook  for  himself  ; and  my  assistants,  con- 
sequently, were  able  to  snore  ad  libitum,  without  having  their 
ribs  poked  with  an  ice-axe.  From  this  refuge,  which  was  just 

1 According  to  Dr.  M.  Villavicensio,  Rucu-Piehineha  means  old  Pichincha,  and 
Guagua-Pichincha  means  young  or  child  Pichincha.  From  this  it  would  appear 
that,  traditionally,  the  highest  point  is  of  less  age  than  the  lower  one. 

2 Rucu  is  said  to  be  the  most  eastern  one.  Besides  these  two  peaks,  others  are 
sometimes  referred  to.  I saw  only  two. 

3 There  are  many  ensilladas  in  Ecuador.  The  term  is  the  equivalent  of  ‘ saddle  ’ 
as  used  in  the  Alps. 

4 By  taking  a more  circuitous  route,  mules  might  have  been  brought  to  this 
place,  14,992  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Three  hundred  feet  above  it  I found 
the  minute  mushroom  ( Cantharellus)  which  has  been  described  in  the  Journal  of 
Botany , June  1890,  by  Messrs.  Massee  and  Murray.  This  (15,300  feet)  was  the 
greatest  height  at  which  Fungi  were  obtained. 


210 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xi. 


a thousand  feet  below  the  top  of  Guagua-Pichincha,  there  was 
an  extensive  prospect  to  the  south  and  east.  We  saw  the  summits 
of  Illiniza  and  Corazon  rising  immediately  over  that  of  Atacatzo  ; 1 
and  Cotopaxi  and  Antisana  (each  nearly  forty  miles  away)  by 
moonlight.2  In  the  night  I heard,  at  irregular  intervals,  roars 
(occurring  apparently  at  no  great  distance)  exactly  corresponding 
to  the  noise  made  by  the  escapes  of  steam  from  the  crater  of 
Cotopaxi.  The  minimum  temperature  at  night  was  29°  Faht. 

On  the  next  morning  (March  23)  all  four  of  us  followed  Jean- 
Antoine’s  track,  and  upon  striking  the  western  ridge  of  Guagua  I 
found  there  was  a very  precipitous  fall  on  the  other  (or  northern) 
side,  where  the  crater,  presumably,  was  located.  We  crossed  this 
ridge,  and  after  descending  about  four  hundred  feet  saw  that  we 
were  in  the  valley  that  I had  looked  down  upon  from  the  ensillada. 
While  the  upper  part  of  it  was  rocky,  precipitous,  and  bare,  the 
slopes  below  were  covered  with  a good  deal  of  vegetation  ; amongst 
which  there  was  neither  smoke,  steam,  fissures,  nor  anything  that 
one  would  expect  to  see  at  the  bottom  of  the  crater  of  a volcano 
which  is  said  to  have  been  recently  in  eruption.  This  however,  no 
doubt,  is  a crater  of  Pichincha.3  Its  depth,  reckoning  from  the 
highest  point  of  the  mountain,  is  probably  not  less  than  two 
thousand  feet ; its  breadth  is  fully  as  much,  and  the  length  of  the 
part  we  saw  was  at  least  a mile.  It  had  none  of  the  symmetry 
of  the  crater  of  Cotopaxi.  The  western  extremity  was  clouded 
during  the  whole  of  our  stay  on  the  summit. 

1 The  summits  of  the  four  mountains  Illiniza,  Corazon,  Atacatzo,  and  Pichincha 
are  nearly  in  a line  ; that  is  to  say,  a line  drawn  from  the  former  to  the  latter  passes 
almost  exactly  through  the  summits  of  the  two  others.  From  our  second  camp  on 
Pichincha  I found  that  the  top  of  Corazon  was  3°15'  more  west  than  Atacatzo,  and 
Illiniza  was  3°45'  more  west  than  Corazon. 

3 The  large  snow  or  glacier  plateau  on  the  north-east  of  Antisana  appeared  an 
important  feature  of  that  mountain,  when  seen  from  Pichincha. 

3 In  a paper  published  at  Chalons,  in  1858,  by  the  Society  of  Agriculture, 
Commerce,  Arts  and  Sciences  of  the  Department  of  the  Marne,  entitled  Ascencion 
du  Pichincha,  M.  Jules  Remy  refers  to  this  valley  when  speaking  of  “ the  crater”  ; 
and  he  states  that  it  leads  to  another  one,  farther  to  the  west,  from  which  it  is 


CHAP.  XI. 


THE  SUMMIT  OF  PICHINCHA. 


211 


In  the  view  placed  at  the  head  of  this  Chapter,  Guagua- 
Picliincha  is  the  little  peak  that  is  almost  exactly  in  the  centre 
of  the  engraving  ; and  the  other  one,  a quarter  of  an  inch  on  its 
right,  is  that  which  was  ascended  by  Louis  Carrel.  The  bottom  of 
the  depression  between  the  two  is  the  ensilladn,  and  it  was  here  I 
had  my  first  view  of  this  crater-valley.  Subsequently,  by  passing 
to  the  left  and  skirting  the  base  of  Guagua-Pichincha,  the  same 
valley  was  seen  again.  I think  it  is  likely  that  others  have  acted 
similarly,  and  through  not  observing  that  they  have  looked  down 
upon  one  and  the  same  valley  have  made  two  craters  out  of  one. 

We  then  reascended  to  the  arete  of  the  ridge,  and  followed  it 
until  Jean-Antoine  said  that  the  top  was  reached.  The  rocks  fell 
away  in  front,  and  there  was  no  reason  to  doubt  him  ; but,  while 
the  barometer  was  being  unpacked,  some  crags,  a long  way  above, 
loomed  through  the  mist.  “ Carrel,”  I said,  “ if  we  are  on  the 
summit  of  Pichincha,  what  is  that  ? ” He  was  struck  dumb  for  a 
time,  and  gasped  “ Why,  I never  saw  that  before  ! ” We  shut  up 
the  barometer,  and  went  on,  and  in  half  an  hour  were  really  on 
the  top  of  Pichincha.  Nothing  more  need  be  said  about  the 
ascent  than  that  it  might  be  made  alone,  by  any  moderately  active 
lad.  The  right  way  up  the  final  peak  is  by  the  ridge  leading  to 
the  west,  and  it  is  probable  that  this  route  has  been  taken  before, 
for  on  the  other  sides,  although  not  inaccessible,  the  last  eight 
hundred  feet  are  very  steep. 

I found  that  the  summit  of  Guagua-Pichincha  was  a ridge  of 

separated  by  a wall  of  rock.  This  statement  must  be  made  on  the  strength  of 
information,  for  a farther  crater  evidently  was  not  seen  by  M.  Remy. 

His  companion  Mr.  Brenchley  went  to  the  bottom  of  the  crater-valley  by  rolling 
head  over  heels,  happily,  without  taking  harm  ; and  set  to  work  to  examine  ‘ a bed 
of  sulphur  and  a fumarole  ’ that  had  been  seen  from  above.  The  following  sentence 
contains  the  whole  of  the  information  that  is  given  about  them.  “II  n’y  a ni  feu 
ni  laves  de  formation  r^cente.” 

This  paper  was  kindly  communicated  to  me  by  M.  Remy  after  my  return  to 
Europe ; and,  having  compared  it  with  the  several  other  accounts  given  of  the 
craters  of  Piehiueha,  I have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  their  authors  were  gifted 
with  much  imagination. 


212 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.  xi. 


lava  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  paces  long,  mainly  firm  rock, 
though  strewn  with  loose,  decomposing  blocks,  amongst  which 
there  were  a number  of  lumps  of  pumice,  up  to  a foot  or  rather 
more  in  diameter.1  Close  to  the  very  highest  point  (15,918  feet),2 

> Professor  Bonney  says : — “ In  the  rock  from  the  summit  of  Guagua-Piehineha, 
the  external  surfaces  have  a slightly  scoriaceous  aspect ; and,  where  the  lichen- 
growth  is  chipped  away,  are  of  a dull  grey  to  rusty-brown  colour.  The  fractured 
faces  shew  the  matrix  to  he  of  a dull,  but  not  dark  colour,  in  places  slightly  vesi- 
cular, the  walls  of  the  hollows  being  coated  with  a pellicle  of  iron  rust.  In  the 
matrix  are  scattered  pretty  thickly  whitish  felspar  crystals,  not  generally  exceeding 
0p2  inch  in  diameter,  and  granules  of  a black  mineral,  less  than  0125  inch  in 
diameter.  . . The  rock  is  a hornblende-andesite.” 

The  specimen  “from  the  highest  point  of  Rucu-Pichincha  ” (the  peak  ascended 
by  Louis  Carrel  is  presumably  Rucu)  “ is  a compact  grey  rock,  containing  scattered 
crystals  of  a glassy  felspar  up  to  about  0'2  inch  in  diameter,  and  smaller  specks 
of  a black  pyroxeuie  mineral.  . . Grains  of  magnetite  occur.  . . The  matrix  is 
often  darkened  by  specks  of  kaolin  and  ferrite.  . . The  rock  is  a hyperstheni- 
ferous  augite-andesite.” — Proc.  Royal  Soc .,  Jan.  31,  1884. 

2 At  11.15  a.m.,  on  March  23,  the  Mercurial  Barometer,  reduced  to  32°  Faht., 
read  16  974  inches,  with  air  temperature  46°  Faht.  The  11  a.m.  reading  at 
Guayaquil  (reduced  to  32°)  was  29  882  inches,  air  temperature  80°  Faht. 

Messrs.  Reiss  and  Stiibel  give  the  height  of  15,706  feet  (4787  metres)  for  Guagua- 
and  15,542  feet  (4737  metres)  for  that  of  Rucu-Pichincha.  Tiiese  elevations  were 
determined  by  A,  not  by  barometrical  observations  on  the  summit.  According  to 
them,  Guagua  is  the  western  and  Rucu  is  the  eastern  summit. 

La  Condamine,  at  p.  33  of  his  Journal  du  Voyage,  gives  2430  toises  as  the 
height  of  his  “station  on  the  highest  point  of  Pichincha  ( station  sur  le  ] Jus  haul 
sommet  de  Pilchincha)  ” ; and  at  p.  56  of  his  Mesure  des  trois  premiers  Reg  res  he  gives 
the  same  amount  (2430  toises)  as  the  height  of  the  eastern  summit.  As  the  highest 
summit  of  Pichincha  is  the  western  one,  I feel  somewhat  j>erplexed. 

Humboldt  makes  various  references  in  his  works  to  Pichincha,  and  in  such  a 
way  as  to  lead  one  to  suppose  that  he  had  been  upon  the  very  highest  point  of  the 
mountain.  I feel  unable  to  say  whether  he  did  attain  the  highest  point.  At  p.  28 
of  the  section  entitled  Xivellcment  Barometrique  in  his  Recueil  d'  Observations  Astro- 
nomiques,  he  gives  4854  metres  as  the  height  of  Rucu-Pichincha,  “the  most  eastern 
of  three  rocky  towers.”  This  is  equal  to  15,925  English  feet,  which  closely  corre- 
sponds with  the  height  I found  for  Guagua-Pichincha.  He  further  puzzles  me  by  a 
footnote,  at  the  beginning  of  which  he  states  that  Pichincha  has  four  principal 
summits,  and  speaks  of  a fifth  one  at  the  end  ; and  he  completes  my  bewilder- 
ment by  saying  that  M.  de  la  Condamine  did  not  measure  Rucu.  although  that 
gentleman  gives  2430  toises  as  the  height  of  the  eastern  summit,  which  all  are 
agreed  is  Rucu-Pichincha. 


CHAP.  XI. 


RECURRING  SPECIES. 


213 


a little  pile  of  stones  had  evidently  beemput  together  by  the  hand 
of  man.  Snow-beds  were  somewhat  numerous  in  fissures,  yet  the 
top  of  this  mountain  scarcely  touches  the  snow-line. 

The  whole  of  the  summit-ridge  had  an  appearance  of  age, 
and  bore  a large  quantity  of  lichens  {Gyrophora  sp.,  Lecidea  sp., 
and  Neuropogon  melaxanthus,  Xyl. ) ; and  within  fifty  feet  of  the 
extreme  top  there  was  a large  plant,  with  thick,  woolly  leaves, 
and  a nearly  white,  pendent,  downy  flower  — I presume,  a Ciilci- 
tium  — which  was  one  of  those  that  constantly  attracted  attention 
by  recurrence  at  particular  altitudes.1  It  made  its  appearance 
whenever  we  reached  the  height  of  14,000  feet,  and  was  never 
seen  much  lower.  From  its  size  and  prominent  characters  it 
was  not  readily  overlooked,  and  I cannot  be  far  wrong  in  esti- 
mating that  its  range  in  altitude  extends  from  about  13,500  to 
16,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Twenty-one  species  of  Beetles  were  collected  upon  Pichincha 
between  the  heights  of  12,000-15,600  feet,  belonging  principally 
to  the  Car  abides,  Otiorrhynch  idee,  and  Curculioniclee.  The  whole 
are  new  to  science.  Some,  like  the  Astylus  described  by  Mr. 
Gorham,  inhabit  the  interior  of  Ecuador  generally,  and  attain 
here  the  upper  limit  of  their  range.  Their  delight  is  in  leaves 
and  branches,  and  they  cease  to  be  seen  when  arborescent 
vegetation  is  left  below.  Eight  species  were  found  only  on 
Pichincha.  The  remainder  were  obtained  on  other  mountains, 
either  at  similar,  or  at  somewhat  higher  or  lower  elevations. 
Two  of  these  (namely,  JTelicorrhynchus  vulsus,  Olliff,  and  Macrops 
ceelorum,  Olliff)2  were  afterwards  taken  again,  one  hundred  miles 
away,  at  16,000  feet  on  Chimborazo.3 

1 It  was  found  also  within  a few  feet  of  the  extreme  top  of  Corazon  (15,871 
feet).  The  specimens  that  we  attempted  to  preserve  turned  out  badly,  and  were 
thrown  away.  Several  clumps  of  it  were  growing  round  about  our  second  camp, 
and  are  shewn  in  the  engraving  facing  page  209. 

3 Figures  of  these  are  given  in  the  Supplementary  Appendix  on  the  Plate  facing 
page  60,  and  upon  page  72. 

3 Examples  of  recurring  species  are  mentioned  in  Chapter  XIX. 


214 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TI1E  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xi. 


The  first  competent  naturalist  who  devotes  his  whole  time 
to  this  mountain  will  reap  a splendid  harvest.  After  he  has 
satiated  himself  with  beetles  and  butterflies,  he  will  be  able  to 
feast  his  eyes  upon  the  ruby  and  emerald  breasts,  and  cyanine 
tails,  of  the  numerous  humming-birds  abounding  upon  it  and  in 
its  neighbourhood,  which  include  some  of  the  most  remarkable 
and  beautiful  forms  that  are  known.  The  tiny  Soldculo  (Mul- 
sant’s  Wood-star)  barely  three  inches  long,  and  the  not  much 
larger  Prelado  (M yrtis  fanny ce,  Less.)  affect  the  plain  of  Tumbaco  ; 
Pterophanes  Temmincki,  Boiss.  (the  largest  Ecuadorian  species, 
measuring  nearly  nine  inches  across  its  wings)  is  said  to  be 
limited  to  the  foot  of  Corazon  ; Petasophora  anais,  Less.,  locally 
called  ‘ the  Royal  Humming-bird,’  is  common  in  the  basins  of 
Quito  and  Chillo  ; and  the  long-tailed  Cynanthus  and  Lexbitis  are 
diffused  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountain  generally.  Not 
fewer  than  eight  others,  including  the  extraordinary  ‘ Sword-bill  ’ 
( Docimastes  ensiferus,  Boiss.),1  and  three  ‘ Puff-legs,’  are  common 
on  the  mountain  itself.  There  is  reason  to  believe  that,  when 
more  attention  is  paid  to  the  habits  and  habitats  of  these  birds, 
it  will  be  found  that  several  at  least  of  the  species  which  are 
said  to  be  confined  to  particular  localities  will  be  discovered  at 
other  places  at  equivalent  altitudes.  Ilumming-birds  in  Ecuador 
are  obtained  through  the  Indians.  Information  as  to  localities 
is  principally  derived  from  them,  and  probably  is  frequently 
misunderstood.  So  far#  as  it  could  be  done,  I procured  the  local 
names  of  the  species  which  were  obtained,2  and  have  brought 
them  together  in  the  accompanying  list,  arranged  according  to 
the  classification  of  the  British  Museum  Guide  to  the  Gould 
collection. 

1 In  ray  specimen,  the  bill  is  three  and  a quarter  inches  long. 

2 I am  greatl}-  indebted  to  Dr.  P.  L.  Sclater,  F.R.S.,  for  naming  this  collec- 
tion. Several  of  the  localities  mentioned  in  the  list,  not  visited  by  me  (S. 
Domingo,  Nanegal,  Mindo,  Canzacoto,  Gualea  and  Nono),  will  be  found  on  the 
Maldonado  map.  The  valley  of  Chota  (in  the  extreme  north  of  Ecuador)  is  not 
given  upon  either  map. 


CHAP.  XI. 


HUMMING-BIRDS  ON  PICHINCHA. 


215 


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216 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xi. 


We  got  back  to  the  second  camp  soon  after  mid  - day  ; and, 
as  there  was  no  prospect  of  improvement  in  the  weather,  packed 
np  and  returned  to  Quito.  It  was  now  close  upon  Easter,  and 
we  could  not  leave  again  until  Good  Friday  was  over.  Giacometti, 
on  that  day,  at  considerable  trouble  to  himself,  thoughtfully 
provided  his  guests  with  salt  fish  for  dinner  ; and  though  this 
nauseous  diet  was  eaten  with  meekness  and  resignation  by  all 
good  Catholics,  one  of  the  boarders — a Yankee  Jew — protested, 
in  language  which  would  have  been  rough  in  the  Western  States, 
against  the  subtraction  of  his  customary  pound  of  flesh  as  a fraud 
on  his  stomach,  and  against  the  substitute  as  an  insnlt  to  his 
religion.  The  next  day  we  left  Quito  by  the  road  to  the  North, 
on  our  way  to  Cayambe,  and  did  not  return  again  to  the  Capital 
before  the  third  of  May. 


ON  THE  ROAD. 


CHAMPIONS. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  CAYAMBE. 

Two  roads  lead  out  of  the  northern  end  of  Quito.  One,  passing 
to  the  east  of  the  Observatory,  descends  through  a narrow  gorge 
rather  rapidly  on  to  the  Plain  of  Tumbaco,  and  is  used  by 
persons  going  to  the  village  of  the  same  name,  to  Pifo,  or  to 
Papallacta.  The  other,  on  the  west  of  the  Observatory,  is  the 
road  to  the  North,  and  it  was  this  one  we  took  on  the  27th 
of  March,  on  our  way  to  the  great  Equatorial  mountain  Cayambe. 

I had  seen  Cayambe  from  the  cone  of  Cotopaxi,  and  at 
Quito  from  the  Panecillo,  but  these  views  were  obtained  at  too 
great  distances  (62  and  43  miles  respectively)  to  distinguish 
details ; and  enquiries  were  made  at  Quito  to  learn  the  names 
of  inhabited  places,  contiguous  to  the  mountain,  where  informa- 
tion might  be  procured  as  to  the  best  manner  of  approaching 
it.  From  Sefior  Carlos  Aguirre  I heard  that  one  of  the  properties 
belonging  to  his  family,  a large  farm  called  Gruachala,  was  situated 

2 F 


218 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xn. 


on  its  southern  outskirts,  and  he  favoured  me  with  a letter  to 
his  tenant.  The  village  called  Cayambe  was  the  nearest  place 
of  any  size  to  the  mountain,  and  the  only  one  where  food  was 
likely  to  be  obtained. 

The  party  on  this  journey  consisted  of  the  two  Carrels, 
Verity,  and  the  principal  arriero  (Cevallos)  we  had  taken  several 
times  before ; who  was  assisted  by  a second  mule-driver  of  a 
jovial  temperament,  much  given  to  strong  waters,  and  by  a very 
willing  and  pleasant-tempered  native,  David  Beltran.  These  three 
men  came  from  Machachi,  and  formed  an  excellent  working  team. 
Four  beasts  were  taken  for  riding,  and  four  others  for  baggage. 

After  proceeding  a few  miles  from  Quito,  we  quitted  the  main 
road,1  and  turned  to  the  east,  towards  the  Plain  of  Tumbaco, 
which  was  at  a lower  level,  gently  sloping  towards  the  north.  It 
was  on  the  eastern  side  of  this  (upon  what  they  called  the  Plain 
of  Yarouqui)  that  La  Condamine  and  his  associates  measured 
their  famous  base-line  in  Oct.-Nov.,  1736  ; and  the  little  pyramid 
of  Carabourou,  marking  its  northern  end,  caught  the  eye,  a 
glittering  speck  of  light,  as  we  approached  the  edge  of  the  great 
Bavine  or  Quebrada 1 of  Guallabamba.3 

This  immense  chasm  forms  a boundary  to  Mojanda  (also  called 
Yana-urcu),  a mountain  which  is  seldom  referred  to  in  geograph- 
ical works,  although  it  rises  to  the  respectable  elevation  of 
14,000  feet,  and  covers,  perhaps,  a greater  area  than  any  other 
individual  mountain  in  Ecuador.4  While  for  the  most  part  its 


* This  road  to  the  North  is  a fairly  good  track,  not  a metalled  road. 

2 (Quebrada  is  a word  that  is  heard  very  often  in  Ecuador.  A ditch  is  a 
quebrada,  or  an  earthquake  crack  a few  feet  across,  or  a chasm  more  than  2000 
feet  deep,  such  as  the  great  ravine  of  Guallabamba. 

3 Multitudes  of  lizards  were  seen  in  passing  between  Quito  and  Guallabamba. 
We  secured  several  specimens  of  Liocephalus  trachycephalus  (A.  Dum.),  and  there 
were  I think  at  least  two  species  that  we  failed  to  catch.  Compare  this  with  the 
passage  quoted  at  p.  176  from  Mr.  Hassaurek. 

« Its  slopes  on  the  south-west  terminate  at  the  Quebrada  of  Guallabamba,  and 
on  the  north  extend  almost  as  far  as  the  town  of  Otovalo. 


CHAP.  XII. 


THE  QUEBRADA  OF  GUALLABAJIBA. 


219 


slopes  are  not  steep,  the  abruptness  of  its  cliffs  bordering  the 
quebrada  can  hardly  be  exceeded  ; and  there  is  nothing  elsewhere 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Equatorial  America  equalling  the  grandeur 
of  this  profound  earthquake  fissure.1  Just  where  the  ground 
commenced  to  fall  steeply,  I halted  to  examine  the  barometers, 
for  the  purpose  of  determining  the  depth  of  the  ravine,  and  for 
reading  the  aneroids  against  the  mercurial  ; as  this  was  a favour- 
able occasion  for  comparing  the  indications  of  the  two  classes 
of  barometers. 

No  reference  having  been  made  to  the  aneroids  since  p.  72, 
it  may  be  supposed  that  they  were  put  aside,  and  were  neglected. 
This  was  not  the  case.  Systematic  comparison  of  the  barometers 
was  part  of  my  daily  routine,  though  regarded  almost  as  waste 
of  time ; for  it  was  difficult  to  see  what  advantage  could  be 
derived  from  employing  instruments  which  all  read  lower  than 
the  truth,  and  differed  to  a large  extent  one  from  another. 
The  comparisons  which  were  made  since  we  left  Chimborazo 
shewed  that  the  index-errors  of  all  the  aneroids  remained  nearly 
constant  at  any  given  pressure  ; and  had  a tendency  to  augment 
while  ascending  (that  is,  with  pressure  diminishing)  and  to 
lessen  whilst  descending  (pressure  increasing).2  At  Quito,  on 
the  20th  of  March,  the  mean  error  of  the  whole  amounted  to 
— 1’009  inches  ; that  is  to  say,  the  mean  of  the  whole  of  the 
aneroids  indicated  a pressure  more  than  an  inch  too  loio  at 
Quito.  If  this  mean  had  been  employed  for  determination 
of  altitude,  in  conjunction  with  the  Guayaquil  observations,  it 
would  have  made  the  height  of  the  Capital  above  the  level  of 
the  sea  about  1,400  feet  in  excess  of  the  truth. 

Although  it  appeared  to  me  that  these  aneroids  were  worth- 
less for  determination  of  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
I had  already  remarked  that  their  indications  often  accorded 

1 A few  remarks  upon  this  and  other  quebradas  are  made  in  a later  Chapter. 

3 See  the  Table  at  the  end  of  Appendix  C giving  the  mean  error  of  the 
aneroids. 


220 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  xir. 


extremely  well  with  those  of  the  mercurial  barometer  when 
observing  differences  of  level,  when  the  observations  were  made 
quickly,  — that  is  to  say,  when  only  a short  interval  of  time 
elapsed  between  the  readings  at  the  lower  stations  and  the  upper 
ones,  or  between  the  upper  and  lower  ones,  as  the  case  might 
be.  At  the  Ravine  of  Guallabamba  I expected  to  descend  about 
3000  feet ' in  two  hours,  and  looked  forward  with  curiosity  to 
see  whether  upon  this  large  difference  of  level  I should  observe 
the  same  satisfactory  accordance  between  the  aneroids  and  the 
mercurial  barometer  as  had  previously  been  noted  upon  minor 
ones. 

At  the  top  of  the  descent,  at  mid-day,  the  reading  of  the 
mercurial  barometer  No.  558  (reduced  to  32°  Faht.)  was  21 ’692 
inches.  The  two  aneroids  I carried  (marked  A,  B),  at  the  same 
place  and  time,  read  21T40  and  19*940  inches  respectively. 
Aneroid  A,  thus,  had  an  index-error  of— 0*552  inch,  and  B an 
index-error  of— 1*752  inches.  At  2.30  p.m.,  on  the  bridge  at 
the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  the  reading  of  the  mercurial  barometer 
(red.  to  32°  Faht.)  was  23*929  inches  ; of  Aneroid  A,  23*400 
inches;  and  of  Aneroid  B,  22*200  inches.  The  increase  in  the 
pressure  shewn  by  the  three  barometers,  therefore,  was 

Mercurial  Barometer,  No.  558  . . 2*237  inches. 

Aneroid  A ....  2*200  ,, 

Do.  B . . . . 2*260  „ 

The  result,  although  in  one  sense  highly  satisfactory,  was  puzzling  ; 
for  here  were  two  aneroids,  one  with  an  index-error  of  — 0*552 
of  an  inch,  and  the  other  with  an  error  more  than  three  times 
as  large,  each  indicating  precisely  the  same  increase  in  pressure, 
and  differing  in  the  measurement  from  the  mercurial  barometer 
only  to  the  extent  of  0*023  of  an  inch  (an  error  of  a shade 
more  than  one  per  cent  in  the  measurement). 

1 From  my  barometric  observations,  the  depth  of  the  ravine  from  the  commence- 
ment of  the  descent  to  the  top  of  the  bridge  amounted  to  2834  feet.  With  the 
addition  of  the  part  below  the  bridge,  the  total  depth  is  a little  less  than  3000  feet. 


chap.  xii.  ECCENTRICITIES  OF  THE  ANEROIDS. 


221 


Or  the  matter  may  be  put  in  the  following  way.  When  we 
were  at  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  and  the  mercurial  barometer 
No.  558  read  23 '929  inches,  the  barometer  at  Guayaquil  was 
standing  at  29 '900  inches.  The  actual  difference  in  the  atmos- 
pheric pressure  between  the  upper  and  lower  station  was  there- 
fore 5 ’971  inches.  Aneroid  B,  however,  at  the  bottom  of  the 
ravine,  read  22 '200  inches,  and  thus  made  it  appear  that  there 
was  a difference  of  pressure  of  7 ’700  inches.  The  error  therefore 
of  B in  a measurement  of  5*971  inches  was  1*729  inches,  or 
more  than  28  per  cent.  Yet  this  same  instrument,  it  was  seen 
just  now,  in  a measurement  of  2*237  inches,  differed  only  to 
the  extent  of  0*023  of  an  inch  from  the  mercurial  barometer. 
Comparisons  of  this  nature  were  continued,  though  no  more  are 
quoted  in  the  course  of  my  narrative.  I returned  to  England, 
and  remained  for  several  years,  entirely  unable  to  understand 
this  anomalous  behaviour.1 

i 

We  stopped  for  the  night  at  the  village  of  Guallabamba 
(7133  feet),  a pleasant  little  place,  with  an  agreeable  tempera- 
ture,2 embowered  in  foliage,  where  we  bought  oranges  shaken 

1 It  appeared  inexplicable  to  several  of  the  leading  instrument-makers  and 
meteorologists  under  whose  uotice  it  was  brought.  The  prominent  manner  in 
which  it  was  referred  to  in  a paper  communicated  to  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society  (see  Proc.  Roy.  Geoy.  Soc.,  1881,  p.  450)  also  failed  to  draw  elucidations 
from  any  one. 

I continued  to  investigate  the  matter  ; and,  after  working  during  several  years 
in  tabulating  and  comparing  the  original  observations,  subsequently  occupied  several 
years  more  in  experiments  in  the  workshop,  with  the  results  which  will  be  found 
in  the  pamphlet  entitled  1 low  to  use  the  Aneroid  Barometer.  See  also  Appendix  C. 

As  even  a condensed  summary  of  this  investigation  necessarily  extends  to 
considerable  length,  I have  thought  it  best  to  issue  it  separately  from,  though 
simultaneously  with  the  present  volume. 

3 At  8 p.m.,  6~°  Faht.  Strangers  seldom  come  here.  The  natives  said  it  was 
two  years  since  they  had  seen  a gringo.  The  place  was  badly  off  for  food.  There 
was  of  course  no  meat.  Bread  only  came  once  a week  from  Quito. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  Ravine  of  Guallabamba,  at  2.30  p.m.,  temperature  in 
the  shade  was  75°-5  Faht.,  and  this  was  the  highest  we  experienced  in  the  shade 
anywhere  in  the  interior  of  Ecuador. 


222 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xii. 


from  the  trees  at  the  rate  of  four  a penny ; and  on  the  28th 
left  for  Guachala,  passing  at  mid-day  the  village  of  Cousobamba 
(about  the  same  elevation  as  Quito),  where  there  was  cliiclm, 
but  no  water.  The  track  wound  through  a large  diversity  of 
scenery,  sometimes  amongst  woods,  or  dipping  into  quebradas, 
and  this  must  be  one  of  the  grandest  rides  in  the  universe  when 
the  surrounding  mountain  panorama  is  visible.  We  arrived  at 
Guachala,1  however,  without  having  had  a single  glimpse  of 
Cayambe ; and,  finding  that  the  tenant  was  absent,  rode  over 
the  next  morning  to  Cayambe  village,  in  quest  of  information. 

I brought  a letter  of  introduction  to  the  Jefo-politico,  and 
learnt  that  he  was  on  the  plaza,  engaged  in  an  affair  of  import- 
ance. He  was  surrounded  by  a large  part  of  the  male  population, 
crowding  together,  jostling  and  pushing  each  other  to  get  a 
good  view  of  the  business  which  was  being  transacted.  It  was 
the  concluding  round  of  a cock-fight  for  the  championship  of 
Cayambe,  and  when  it  was  over  the  Jefo-politico  had  leisure 
to  attend  to  me.  He  promised  that  a guide  should  be  provided  ; 
but,  say  what  I would,  the  conversation  invariably  bore  round 

i In  the  garden  at  the  back  of  this  establishment,  before  breakfast  on  the 
29th,  I collected  fourteen  species  of  bugs  and  beetles,  eleven  of  which  prove  to 
be  new  to  science.  The  bushes  were  loaded  with  the  Astylus  described  by  Mr. 
Gorham  (Supp.  App.,  pp.  52-3).  Whilst  engaged  in  this  occupation,  the  sun 
came  out  (at  8 a.m.)  brightly,  and  drove  me  into  the  house.  This  was  the  only 
occasion  upon  the  whole  journey  that  I felt  the  rays  of  the  sun  were  dangerous. 
The  people  in  general  at  Cayambe  and  Guachala  seemed  to  me  to  have  even 
lighter  complexions  than  those  at  Quito,  which  implies  that  they  do  not  feel  the 
sun  very  often. 

Between  Guallabamba  and  Guachala  I dismounted  twice  to  secure  fine  beetles 
which  were  literally  crossing  our  path,  belonging  to  the  Dynast  idee.  One  of  these 
is  a known  species  ( Heterogomphus  Bourcieri,  Guerin)  ; for  the  reception  of  the 
other,  Mr.  Bates  has  instituted  the  genus  Praogolofa  (Supp.  App.,  p.  34). 

The  following  times  were  occupied  in  going  from  the  capital  to  Guachala. 
Quito  to  the  top  of  the  Quebrada  of  Guallabamba,  4 hours  50  min.  ; descent  to 
the  bottom  of  the  ravine  (cutting  the  zigzags)  1 h.  35  min.,  those  following 
the  path  took  2 hs.  30  min.  ; bridge  to  the  village  of  Guallabamba,  TO  minutes. 
Guallabamba  to  Cousobamba,  3 hs.  20  min.  ; thence  to  Guachala,  5 hours. 


CHAP.  XII. 


EQUATORIAL  SPORTS. 


223 


to  cock-fighting,  which  in  this  region  is  considered  the  most 
rational  and  delightful  of  all  sports.  He  expressed  incredulity 
when  told  that  in  England  it  was  only  enjoyed  by  the  lower 
orders,  though  he  would  have  readily  believed  that  the  Lord 
Chancellor  comes  down  every  morning  to  the  Law  Courts  with 
a fighting-cock  under  each  arm.  “ You  surprise  me,”  said  the 
Jefo-politico,  “ for  all  the  best  cocks  come  from  England/’ 

Three  weeks  later  I passed  two  nights  at  this  village,  and 
found  that  to  each  pillar  in  the  courtyard  of  my  host’s  house 
a fighting-cock  was  tied.  His  champions  passed  their  spare 
moments  in  attempts  to  carry  on  a desultory  warfare  ; and, 
when  night  came,  chased  sleep  away  by  sci’eams  of  defiance.  I 
growled  to  the  schoolmaster  that  they  disturbed  the  sacredness 
of  midnight.  “ Oh,”  said  he,  “ they  always  crow  at  the  even 
hours  ” ; and  it  was  the  fact  that  they  raised  their  voices  at 
twelve,  two,  and  four,  and  let  one,  three,  and  five  slip  by  un- 
noticed ! 

The  Jefo-politico,  Senor  Antonio  Jarrin  de  Espinosa,  was 
the  owner  of  Cayambe  mountain,  of  five  thousand  head  of  cattle, 
and  a man  of  large  possessions  ; and  when  he  invited  us  to  quit 
comfortable  quarters  at  Guachala,  and  to  sleep  at  his  Hacienda 
Chuarpongo,  I anticipated  we  were  going  to  enjoy  a rather  good 
time,  in  a country  house,  suitable  for  a person  of  his  distinction. 
Chuarpongo  was  on  the  outskirts  of  Cayambe,  and  looked  down, 
upon  the  Equatorial  village.  The  building  was  composed  of  little 
more  than  one  room,  which  was  filled  with  raw  potatoes  — if  they 
had  been  cooked  it  would  have  been  all  right.  Mashed  potatoes 
Avould  make  a nice  bed,  being  of  a plastic  and  accommodating 
nature  ; but  these  raw  potatoes  of  Chuarpongo  were  uncompro- 
mising, and  left  a strong  impression  on  both  mind  and  body. 

I think  it  must  be  assumed,  from  the  exceptional  courtesy 
he  shewed,  Sefior  Espinosa  was  unaware  that  we  had  to  repose 
upon  beds  of  raw  potatoes.  The  guide  he  provided  was  himself. 
He  arrived  at  4 a. m.,  on  the  31st  of  March,  at  Chuarpongo,  with 


224 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  ciiap.  xii. 


two  of  his  major-domos  (and  a third  one  from  a neighbouring 
estate),  accompanied  by  five  fine  deerhounds ; and  led  us  in 

the  darkness  a long  way  east-south-east,  before  beginning  to 
approach  the  summit  of  our  mountain.1  At  about  8 a.m.,  at  a 
bend  of  ‘the  Monk’s  Valley,’  they  stopped  to  enquire  where  I 
wished  to  arrive,  and  upon  indicating  a rocky  point,  at  the  edge 
of  the  glaciers  underneath  the  summit,  they  proceeded  up  the 
ridge  dividing  the  Monk’s  Valley  from  another  on  its  south-east.2 
At  10.15,  on  coming  to  the  point  where  the  heads  of  these 

two  valleys  met,  we  halted  for  a meal,  with  the  sun  shining 
brilliantly. 

While  resting  on  the  grass,  a great  shadow  suddenly  appeared 
in  our  midst,  and  made  us  all  alive.  A Condor  had  dropped 
down,  and  was  hovering  with  outstretched  wings  about  five-and- 
twenty  yards  above.  The  deerhounds  ran  in,  cowering  with 

terror,  and  casting  furtive  glances  at  the  huge  bird,  whilst 
]>ressing  against  us,  trembling  with  fear.  It  was  remarkable  to 
see  the  fright  that  possessed  these  big  dogs,  when  they  were  in 
perfect  security  amongst  our  large  party.  Shouts  drove  the 
assailant  away,  and  presently  we  proceeded/1 

The  course  now  led  up  very  steep  ground,  that  formed  a 

step  to  another  valley  above,  and  the  passage  of  this  part 
occupied  some  length  of  time,  as  the  animals  had  to  be  unloaded. 
When  all  were  got  to  the  top,  Jean-Antoine  was  missing,4  nor 

1 Our  courses  (luring  the  remainder  of  this  Chapter  and  for  Chapter  XIII.  can 
be  followed  on  the  inset  map  of  part  of  Cayambe  that  is  given  at  the  top  of  the 
large,  general  route  map. 

2 On  this  part  of  the  way  we  passed  several  Falcons.  One,  sitting  on  a rock 
about  fifty  feet  off,  would  not  flv  away  when  shouted  to. 

3 This  bird  had  been  seen  hovering  about  for  some  time.  It  seemed  to  drop 
down  upon  us,  and  for  an  instant  came  within  twenty  yards. 

The  largest  Ecuadorian  Condor  of  which  I have  heard  is  said  to  have  measured 
10  feet  0 in.  from  tip  to  tip  of  the  wings.  Most  of  those  we  saw  on  Antisana 
and  elsewhere  would  not  I think  have  measured  so  much  as  nine  feet. 

* I had  despatched  him  in  advance  (so  that  the  barometer  should  not  be  im- 
perilled by  the  floundering  of  the  animals)  with  instructions  to  wait  for  us  above. 


CHAP.  XII. 


UNPREMEDITA  TED  EXPLORA  TIOXS. 


225 


could  any  one  tell  where  he  was.  Halting  the  others,  and 
handing  all  the  things  I usually  carried  over  to  Louis  in  order 
to  move  quickly,  I scrambled  a couple  of  hundred  feet  up  the 
ridge  on  the  northern  side  of  the  valley,  and  descried  the  Chief 
of  the  Staff  about  half-a-mile  ahead,  picking  his  way  through 
some  swampy  ground. 

Just  then  a deer  galloped  down  the  cliff  ; the  hounds  went 
off  in  hot  pursuit,  and  holding  us  entranced  by  their  splendid 
bounds  down  break-neck  rocks  gave  the  errant  man  a still  longer 
start.  When  they  came  back,  discomfited  and  panting,  we  went 
on,  and  for  a time  held  parallel  courses  — the  others  down  below 
on  the  flat  floor  of  the  valley,  and  I on  the  top  of  the  ridge, 
so  close  that  we  could  keep  up  conversation.  Presently  they 
got  out  of  sight  and  hearing.  I continued,  however,  to  progress 
along  the  ardte,  intending  to  rejoin  them  when  the  cliffs  between 
us  became  less  precipitous. 

At  mid-day  clouds  formed  about  our  neighbourhood.  I had 
arrived  close  above  the  spot  where  we  were  to  have  encamped, 
but  could  not  see  twenty  yards,  or  get  a response  to  continual 
whistling  and  shouting.  About  this  time  I was  joined  by  one 
of  the  hounds,  who  seemed  to  share  my  perplexity,  and  ran 
about  in  all  directions,  stopping  to  listen.  I then  bore  round 
to  the  south,  and  finding  no  track  concluded  that  the  others 
must  have  passed  over  rock,  and  left  no  trace ; so  proceeded 
higher  up,  and  doubled  back,  purposely  selecting  such  ground 
as  would  allow  a good  track  to  be  made  on  it.  Presently  we 
came  to  some  bits  of  climbing  which  were  too  steep  for  the 
dog,  and,  whilst  rendering  him  assistance,  a few  specks  of  snow 
commenced  to  fall.  They  quickly  changed  to  flakes  ; in  a few 
minutes  there  was  a blinding  snow-storm,  and  the  track  was  com- 
pletely obliterated.  I continued  to  search  for  two  hours  more, 
and  then  considered  it  was  time  to  attend  to  my  own  safety. 

We  were  nearly  16,000  feet  high  ; without  compass  or  instru- 
ments, food,  protection  or  the  means  of  making  a fire,  for  Louis 

2 G 


226 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xii. 


had  taken  everything.  We  went  down,  regardless  of  direction, 
solely  occupied  with  the  view  of  getting  to  a lower  level.  Any 
valley  on  this  side  of  the  mountain,  if  followed  to  its  extremity, 
would  bring  one  on  to  the  plain  of  Cayambe.  At  about  4 p.m., 
getting  out  of  cloud-land,  we  came  upon  the  head  of  an  unknown 
valley,  which  was  joined  some  distance  off  by  another,  each  with 
its  own  little  torrent.  There  was  a slope  of  sand,  perhaps  eight 
hundred  feet  high,  between  us  and  the  nearest  stream,  and 
leaving  a track  on  it  that  could  be  seen  a mile  away  I marched 
across  to  the  right  bank  of  the  valley,  but  had  to  come  back 
again,  as  my  four-footed  friend  stopped  howling  on  the  bank, 
refusing  to  take  to  the  water.  I carried  the  big  baby  across 
in  my  arms.  The  streams  were  unfordable  when  united,  and 
presently  fell  into  a wall-sided  ravine  with  impassable  cliffs  on 
the  left  bank.  The  opposite  slopes,  being  fissured  by  earthquake- 
cracks,  were  nearly  as  impracticable  ; and  we  were  forced  to 
keep  to  the  bottom,  in  morass,  covered  with  reeds  ; and  for  two 
hours  more  I waded  through  slime,  clutching  the  stems,  not 
daring  to  leave  go,  lest  I should  be  swallowed  up. 

It  was  nearly  dark  when  we  escaped  from  this  horrible  bog, 
and  came  upon  steeply  descending  ground  ; where  I descried  a 
little  thicket,  the  first  semblance  of  shelter  that  had  been  seen. 
Preoccupied  in  finding  a refuge  of  any  sort,  I did  not  at  first 
notice  that  we  had  hit  upon  a lair,  or  sleeping-place,  of  some 
of  the  cattle  who  from  time  to  time  escape  to  the  mountains 
from  the  tyranny  of  man.  We  had  been  warned  to  avoid  them, 
as  they  pay  no  regard  to  anyone,  and  become  savage  and 
dangerous  wild-beasts,  with  marvellous  agility.  The  idea  that 
several  might  bounce  in,  inclined  to  resent  this  unauthorized 
occupation  of  their  brush-wood  bed,  gave  something  to  think 
about  through  the  eleven  hours  of  darkness. 

We  left  the  lair  at  earliest  dawn,  and,  after  descending  an 
abrupt  step,  found  that  the  lower  part  of  the  valley  was  densely 
wooded.  I spied  the  remains  of  a track,  a very  old  one,  evidently 


CHAP.  XII. 


INDIAN  HOSPITALITY. 


227 


unused  for  a long  time,  overgrown  and  obliterated  in  many 
places,  or  closed  by  interlaced  branches.  The  dog  crept  under- 
neath without  much  trouble,  and  found  the  way  instinctively ; 
whilst  I was  driven  to  make  long  detours,  and  several  times 
should  have  lost  myself  had  not  the  sagacious  animal  stood  on 
the  track  and  waited,  or  come  and  led  me  back.  Much  sooner 
than  I anticipated,  sky  became  visible  through  openings  in  the 
branches,  and  about  7.30  a.m.  we  suddenly  emerged  on  to  the 
open  ; and  at  the  foot  of  a grassy  hill  saw  a little  Indian  hut, 
emitting  blue  smoke,  curling  upwards  in  front  of  the  plain,  with 
a man  and  woman  outside  busy  at  their  morning  work.  I smelt 
breakfast,  and  pounced  down  on  them  like  a hawk.  “ Have 
you  locro  ?”  “Yes,  Sen  or.”  “Give  me  some  locro”  (said  very 
peremptorily).  “ That  I will.  Sen  or  ” (said  heartily),  and  he 
brought  out  a basonful  at  once,  with  another  for  the  dog,  and 
we  all  sat  outside  in  the  sunshine  eating  potato-soup  together. 
They  were  an  old,  homely  couple,  unencumbered  either  by  bash- 
fulness or  servility.  He  pressed  us  to  take  more,  and  came  down 
the  river’s  side  until  the  outlying  houses  of  the  village  were 
seen,  and  then  with  a polite  salutation  was  about  to  take,  leave  ; 
but  I detained  him,  and,  pouring  my  loose  money  into  his  hand, 
left  him  in  stupefied  adoration,  uncertain  whether  he  had  seen 
a vision  or  entertained  a gringo. 

When  I reappeared  soon  after  9 a.m.  on  the  1st  of  April  at 
the  house  of  .the  Jefo-politico,  a messenger  was  despatched  to 
advise  the  others  ; and  Seflor  Espinosa,  Jean- Antoine,  and  Verity 
arrived  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  with  congratulations  upon 
my  safe  return  from  this  circular  tour.  The  day  was  too  far 
advanced  to  make  another  start  for  the  camp.  Having  time 
on  our  hands,  we  wandered  about  the  village,  and  formed  the 
acquaintance  of  priest  and  schoolmaster ; and  discovered  that 
one  could  buy  two-pennyworth  of  bread  at  a time,  and  no  more. 
If  you  want  a larger  quantity,  you  may  buy  another  medioworth, 
and  so  on,  but  on  no  account  will  a shilling’s  worth  be  sold  at 


228 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xii. 


once.  Later  on,  attracted  by  the  sound  of  music,  we  came  upon 
a minstrel,  with  upcast  eyes,  appealing  to  his  star.  Then  there 
was  a flash,  and  a quickly  following  splash,  for  she  suddenly 

appeared  on  the  balcony  to 
damp  his  ardour,  according  to 
the  manner  of  the  country ; 
and  made  us  go  back,  wonder- 
ing at  the  ways  of  women, — 
resolved  never  to  play  a guitar 
under  a first-floor  at  Cayambe. 

Our  mountain  looked  im- 
mense from  the  village,  and 
we  saw  on  the  2nd  of  April 
that,  like  Antisana,  its  upper 
3-4000  feet  was  almost  com- 
pletely buried  under  snow  and 
glacier.  On  the  west,  its  slopes 
die  out  very  gradually  on  the 
Plain  of  Cayambe,1  and  upon 
this  side  they  do  not  become 
steep  until  one  gets  higher 
than  13,000  feet.  On  the 
south  the  angles  are  more 
abrupt,  and  upon  its  eastern 
side  the  mountain  is  precipi- 
tous. It  was  formerly  sup- 
posed to  be  the  only  great 
mountain,  anywhere  in  the 

INGRATITUDE. 

world,  immediately  upon  the 
Equator,  and  it  has  become  improbable  that  a loftier  one  will 
ever  be  discovered  exactly  on  the  Line. 


1 The  Plain  of  Cayambe  is  bounded  by  Cayambe,  Imbabura,  and  Mojanda. 
Its  drainage  falls  into  the  Rio  de  Guallabamba,  and  by  the  Esmeraldas  into  the 
Pacific. 


“THEY  PROWLED  AROUND  US  AT  NICHT,  AND  LEFT  THEIR  FOOT-PRINTS  IN  THE  SNOW." 


CHAP.  XII. 


THE  ESPIHOSA  GLACIER. 


229 


Leaving  Verity  behind  to  continue  buying  two-pennyworths  of 
bread  until  he  had  accumulated  a sackful,  I went  up  to  the 
camp,  and  was  received  with  open  arms,  as  one  risen  from  the 
dead.  The  ten  men  searched  until  they  found  my  track,  and 
divining  my  intentions  had  given  me  up  for  lost.  They  passed 
the  night  of  the  31st  of  March  in  lamentations,  for  the  White 
Valley  down  which  I had  made  my  way,  Senor  Espinosa  told 
them,  was  pathless,  inaccessible,  and  full  of  wild  beasts.  He 
said  it  was  useless  to  attempt  to  follow,  and  the  thing  to  do 
was  to  return  to  the  village,  to  organize  a search  for  my  bones. 
Pumas,  indeed,  were  rather  numerous  in  this  neighbourhood.  A 
young  horse  belonging  to  Sefior  Espinosa  had  just  been  killed  by 
one,  and  an  Indian  we  passed  reported  that  he  had  noticed  another 
roving  about.  Yet  we  never  saw  any,  although  they  prowled 
around  us  at  night,  and  left  their  footprints  in  the  snow. 

The  camp  (14,762  feet)  was  established  at  the  eastern  end 
of  an  upper  prolongation  of  the  Monk’s  Valley,  and  was  com- 
manded on  the  north  by  the  jirecijiitous  cliffs  along  which  I 
had  gone.  On  the  east  (that  is  to  say,  at  the  head  of  the 
valley)  there  was  a ridge  descending  a little  to  the  west  of  south 
from  a secondary  peak  of  Cayambe,  and  on  the  eastern  side  of 
this  there  was  a large  glacier  — invisible  alike  from  our  camp 
and  from  the  village  — which  my  people  had  discovered  during  my 
absence.  This  glacier  was  one  of  the  finest  we  found  in  Ecuador, 
having  its  birth  in  the  snows  at  the  upper  part  of  the  mountain, 
and  a length  of  several  miles  after  it  streamed  away  from  the 
central  reservoir.  The  part  nearest  to  the  camp  descended  steeply, 
in  what  is  termed  an  ice-fall.  There  were  no  moraines  nor  even 
stray  rocks  upon  it,  though  there  were  two  small,  lateral  moraines 
upon  its  western  side,  which  shewed  that  rocks  had  risen  above 
the  ice  in  former  times,  and  that  the  glacier  had  been  larger. 

Our  course  led  alongside  and  partly  over  these  moraines  to 
the  top  of  the  secondary  peak  of  which  I have  already  spoken, 
that  juts  out  from  Cayambe  like  the  Aiguille  du  Gouter  on 


230 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xii. 


Mont  Blanc,  and  affords  a perfect  stand-point  for  studying  the 
western  side  of  the  mountain.  Its  position  is  sufficiently  indi- 
cated by  saying  that  it  is  at  the  head  of  the  Monk's  Valley  and 
the  White  Valley ; and  it  cannot  be  mistaken  if  it  is  added 
that  it  lies  south-west  of  the  highest  point  of  Cayambe,  and  is 
elevated  1G,1G4  feet  above  the  sea.1 

The  extreme  top  of  this  peak  was  flat,  and  the  lava  in  situ 
was  strewn  with  small  pieces  of  pumice  and  a number  of 
varieties  of  other  lavas2  (all,  however,  having  a strong  family 
resemblance  to  each  other)  which  doubtless  were  morainic  matter, 
and  had  been  deposited  there  when  the  contiguous  glacier  rose 
to  a higher  level.  Growing  amongst  them,  there  was  a quantity 
of  Andrecea  striata,  Mitt.,  a moss  of  unattractive  character, 
which  seemed  to  thrive  in  most  exposed  positions,  and  grew 
both  on  naked  lavas,  amongst  snow,  or  in  damp  volcanic  ash.3 

1 On  April  3,  at  11  a.m.,  the  mercurial  barometer  No.  558  (reduced  to  32° 
Faht.)  read  16'924  inches,  air  temperature  55°  Faht.  The  11  a.m.  reading  at 
Guayaquil,  reduced  to  32°  Faht.,  was  29'915  inches,  air  temp.  79°  Faht. 

2 “ The  rocks  of  Cayambe  are  very  uniform  in  character,  and  of  the  same 
general  type  as  those  of  Chimborazo,  Antisana  (in  part),  and  Pichincha  (in  part). 
They  are  andesites,  but  as  they  contain  hornblende  and  augite,  as  well  as  mica,  it 
is  difficult  to  give  them  a distinctive  name.  . . Perhaps  it  is  more  appropriate  to 
classify  these  rocks  with  the  augite-andesites,  using  the  word  hornblendie  as  a 
qualifying  epithet,  except  in  the  case  of  the  second  specimen  described,  which  might 
perhaps  be  termed  a mica-andesite.” — Proc.  Royal  Soc.,  June  19,  1884. 

s It  had  been  already  collected  around  the  Second  Camp  on  Chimborazo,  upon 
the  summit  of  Corazon,  and  had  been  seen  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  snow-line 
generally. 

In  the  Journal  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  for  1861,  at  pp.  184-190,  there 
is  an  account  of  a journey  made  by  the  late  Dr.  William  Jameson,  of  Quito,  to 
Cayambe  in  1859.  He  visited  the  lower  slopes  of  the  northern  side  of  the  mountain. 
Botany  was  his  principal  object,  and  a list  is  given  of  seventy-eight  species  of 
plants  that  lie  collected  between  the  height  of  10,000  feet  and  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  snow-line.  In  consequence  of  Dr.  Jameson’s  labours,  I did  not  devote  any 
time  to  the  flora  of  Cayambe. 

The  altitudes  given  in  this  paper  are  generally  too  high.  For  Cayambe  village 
he  quotes  9724  feet.  According  to  my  observations  it  is  9323  feet  above  the  sea. 
Messrs.  Reiss  A Stiibel  say  9357  feet. 


cnAP.  xix. 


ROUTE  UP  CAYAMBE. 


231 


I called  this  peak  the  Pointe  Jarrin,  and  the  glacier  the  Espinosa 
Glacier,  after  their  proprietor. 

Cayambe  culminates  in  three  domes  or  bosses,  all  completely 
enveloped  by  snow-covered  glacier.  The  only  visible  rock  high 
up  on  the  western  side  is  a small  cliff,  about  800  feet  below 
the  northern  of  these  three  summits,  which  is  capped  by  a 
vertical  section  of  ice,  similar  to  that  shewn  in  the  plate  facing 

p.  76.  From  examination  of  this  mountain  at  great  distances, 

it  was  known  that  the  central  boss  was  the  highest.  It  bore 
north-east  from  the  Pointe  Jarrin,  and  appeared  to  be  more  or 
less  accessible,  though  decorated  at  its  crest  with  overhanging 
cornices  and  surrounded  by  large  crevasses.  The  course  agreed 
upon  was  20°  East  of  North  for  the  first  part  of  the  way  over 
the  lower  glacier  ; with  the  intention  of  bearing  round  to  the 
south,  and  steering  directly  for  the  summit,  after  having  got 
clear  of  the  fissures  at  the  head  of  the  ice-fall.  To  save  time 
on  the  following  day,  I caused  steps  to  be  cut  up  the  rounded 
slopes  of  the  glacier  where  they  pressed  against  the  Pointe 

Jarrin,  and  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon  advanced  food  and 

instruments  to  the  edge  of  the  ice. 

On  the  4th  of  April  we  left  the  tent  at  4.40  a.m.,  and 
walked  by  lantern-light  as  far  as  the  top  of  the  Pointe  Jarrin. 
The  morning  was  fine  and  clear,  and  the  view  at  this  time 
embraced  almost  all  of  the  mountains  which  have  hitherto  been 
enumerated.1  After  traversing  some  flat  and  easy  glacier,  we 

1 On  the  6th  of  April  I again  ascended  the  Pointe  Jarrin,  and  was  more  fortunate 
than  usual  in  getting  angles  for  position.  I observed  the  bearings  on  this  occasion 
of  Mojanda,  Imbabura,  Cotocachi,  Pichincha,  Ataeatzo,  Corazon,  Illiniza,  Cotopaxi, 
and  Antisana.  Ruminahui,  Pasochoa,  and  Sineholagua  were  clouded,  and  Cayambe 
shut  out  the  whole  of  the  view  to  the  east.  The  two  peaks  of  Illiniza,  72  to  73 
miles  away,  could  be  readily  distinguished,  and  at  this  distance  were  0°  45'  apart, 
Antisana  (more  than  40  miles  away)  looked  huge,  and  we  again  saw  the  large, 
snowy  shoulder  on  its  north-east.  Below  this,  there  was  a wonderfully  level  ridge 
running  out  in  the  same  direction,  perhaps  four  or  five  miles  farther.  After  that, 
the  slopes  appeared  to  descend  towards  the  east  with  great  rapidity. 


232 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xii. 


became  involved  in  a complicated  maze  of  snow-covered  crevasses 
at  the  head  of  the  ice-fall  of  the  Espinosa  Glacier,  which  had 
to  be  threaded  cautiously.  This  was  followed  by  moderately- 
inclined  slopes,  and  we  then  entered  upon  a large  plain  that 
took  three-quarters  of  an  hour  of  steady  going  to  cross.  This 
we  called  the  Grand  Plateau.  Afterwards  the  slopes  became 
steeper,  with  occasional  large  open  crevasses  and  numerous  con- 
cealed ones,  and  were  rapid  near  the  top,  which  was  gained  soon 
after  10  o’clock  in  the  morning. 

Early  in  the  day  mists  began  to  form  and  gather  beneath 
us,  and  we  pushed  on  to  endeavour  to  have  a view  from  the 
summit.  At  9.30  a.m.,  when  quite  a short  distance  below  the 
highest  point,  we  were  well  seen  by  a crowd  assembled  on  the 
Plaza  of  the  village  ; but  in  a few  minutes  more  the  clouds 
caught  us  up,  and  we  did  not  get  out  of  them  until  the  close  of 
the  day. 

The  true  summit  of  Cavambe  is  a ridge,  running  north  and 
south,  entirely  covered  by  glacier.  Its  height  (deduced  from  the 
mean  of  two  readings  of  the  mercurial  barometer  at  10.45  and 
11  a.m.)  is  19,180  feet,  and  this  mountain  is  therefore  the  fourth 
in  rank  of  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator.1  Of  the  other  two 
summits  the  northern  one  is  the  higher,  and  it  is  well-nigh 
inaccessible,  being  almost  surrounded  by  gigantic  crevasses,  and 
surmounted  by  tufted  cornices.  The  central  or  true  summit  pre- 
sented fewer  difficulties,  though  it  was  not  altogether  easy  of 
access.  It  was  a stroke  of  good  fortune  to  find  a snow-bridge 
across  the  highest  crevasse,  just  under  the  place  where  there  was 
a break  in  the  coronal  cornice. 

Glacier  departs  in  all  directions  from  the  summit  of  Cayambe 

1 The  mean  of  these  two  readings  (reduced  to  32°  Faht.)  was  14  983  inches. 
The  11  a.m.  reading  at  Guayaquil  (red.  to  32°  F.)  was  29  915  inches,  air  tempera- 
ture 79°  Faht.  At  some  future  date  it  may  perhaps  appear  that  Cayambe  is 
third,  and  that  Antisana  is  the  fourth  in  rank.  There  is,  I imagine,  a very  slight 
difference  in  the  elevation  of  these  two  mountains. 


CHAP.  XII 


ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  CAYAMBE. 


233 


in  a maimer  that  is  seldom  seen 


on  mountain-tops.  From  the  huge  schrunds  that  surrounded 
the  three  bosses  of  the  summit-ridge,  on  all  sides,  I think  that 
there  are  at  no  great  depth  beneath  the  surface  several  pinnacles 
like  those  which  form  the  summits  of  Sincholagua  and  Illiniza. 
By  persons  who  are  familiar  with  glacier-clad  eminences  it  will 
be  apprehended  without  saying  that  a slight  diminution  in  the 
thickness  of  the  superincumbent  ice  may  cause  the  apex  of  this 
mountain  to  become  inaccessible. 

During  the  83  minutes  we  remained  on  the  summit,  tem- 
perature fluctuated  between  32°—410  Faht.  On  arrival,  the 
wind  was  light,  without  any  very  pronounced  direction.  It 
strengthened  as  day  advanced,  and  soon  after  11  a.m.  blew  in 
squalls  from  the  east,  and  we  retired.  The  upper  part  of  this 
mountain  was  a regular  battlefield  for  the  winds.  On  several 
occasions  in  the  succeeding  fortnight,  when  encamped  southwards, 
we  saw  their  struggles  for  victory.  If  the  east  wind  conquered, 
the  whole  mountain  became  invisible  ; but  if,  as  happened  some- 

2 H 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xii. 


234 

times,  a north-west  wind  prevailed,  then  the  western  side,  and 
even  the  rest,  was  seen.1 

It  being  still  early  in  the  day,  we  diverged  to  the  north 
to  get  some  samples  of  the  highest  rocks  ; 2 and  then  followed 
our  track  literally,  as  the  mists  were  dense, — proceeding  very 
cautiously,  ‘sounding  '3  at  almost  every  step  in  consequence  of  the 
increased  softness  of  the  snow,  and  grovelling  on  hands  and  knees 
across  the  rotten  bridges.  We  returned  to  camp  at  3.40  p.m. 

So  far  as  I am  aware,  no  attempt  has  hitherto  been  made 
to  bring  together  rates  of  speed  which  have  been  attained  upon 
mountains.  Probably,  they  are  not  often  well  ascertained  ; for 
persons  engaged  in  mountain-travel,  or  in  mountaineering, 
generally  have  their  attention  too  much  absorbed  by  inevitable 
details,  or  by  the  novelty  of  their  surroundings,  to  observe  and 
note  with  precision  the  times  occupied,  and  the  duration  of  halts. 
It  was  necessary  to  observe  the  rates  we  attained  in  order  to 
form  an  opinion  as  to  the  effects  of  low  pressures  on  the  bodily 
powers;  and,  whenever  it  was  practicable,  our  times  were  noted.* 

Upon  Cayambe  we  attained  our  fastest  ascending  rate.  We 
left  camp  (14,7G2  feet)  at  4.40  a.m.,  and  arrived  on  the  summit 
(19,180)  at  10.12  a.m. ; the  only  positive  halt  being  one  of 
ten  or  twelve  minutes  at  the  top  of  the  Pointe  Jarrin,  to  put 
on  rope  and  gaiters.  In  320  minutes  of  actual  going  we  rose 

1 The  east  wind  was  damp,  and  comparatively  warm.  There  was  a notable 
difference  in  the  height  of  the  snow-line  on  different  sides  of  the  mountain.  On 
the  west,  there  was  no  permanent  snow  so  low  as  16,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea. 

2 The  rock  (lava)  of  this  cliff  closely  resembled  that  which  had  been  taken 
lower  down,  and  Prof.  Bonney  informs  me  that  microscopic  examination  shews 
that  the  differences  are  only  varietal.  “ Hornblende,  iron-mica,  and  augite  are 
present,  the  last  being  the  less  conspicuous  constituent.'’ 

3 Those  who  are  acquainted  with  the  technicalities  of  mountaineering  are 
referred  to  Scrambles  amongst  the  Alps , p.  375,  where  a figure  is  shewn  in  the  act 
of  ‘ sounding.’ 

* Several  of  our  rates,  which  were  well  ascertained,  are  brought  together  in  a 
tabular  form  in  Chapter  XIX. 


CHAP.  XII. 


RATE  OF  ASCENT. 


235 


4424  feet,  or  13 ’85  feet  per  minute  ( = 831  feet  per  hour).1 
Some  may  say  this  is  not  a fast  rate  ; or  others  may  entertain 
a contrary  opinion,  and  argue  that  the  ascent  must  have  been 
very  easy  to  have  permitted  us  to  travel  so  quickly.  It  was  no 
part  of  my  aim  to  make  or  to  break  ‘ records  ’ ; and,  personally, 
I have  no  objection  to  the  adoption  of  either  of  these  opinions. 

Whether  fast  or  slow,  I remarked  that  both  of  the  Carrels 
commenced  to  give  indications  of  fatigue  when  we  were  about 
18,000  feet  high.  Jean-Antoine  was  a man  who  always  wished 
to  be  in  front,  and  if  he  yielded  up  the  lead  voluntarily  it  was 
a sure  sign  that  he  was  tired.  In  ascending  the  last  twelve 
hundred  feet,  although  the  axes  were  little  used  and  we  seldom 
sank  more  than  a foot  in  the  snow,  the  men  changed  places, 
and  took  the  lead  alternately,  perhaps  a dozen  times.  Louis 
had  no  desire  to  retain  it, — indeed,  I think  it  may  be  said  that 
neither  of  them  could  have  held  it  for  any  length  of  time. 
Although  these  changes  scarcely  occupied  a minute  apiece,  I 
found  the  little  stoppages  very  convenient.  Instead  of  hindering, 
they  probably  assisted  progress  ; and  it  should  be  added,  to  the 
credit  of  the  cousins,  that  this  ascent  was  made  without  a fault. 
There  was  no  retracing  of  steps,  and  doing  work  twice  over. 
Due  to  this,  our  ascending  rate,  on  that  day,  was  better  than 
the  average. 

We  had  now  paid  some  attention  to  the  first,  second,  third 
and  fourth  of  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator.  There  was  no 
likelihood  of  finding  their  supremacy  disputed ; for  mv  prede- 
cessors agreed  that  these  mountains  towered  head  and  shoulders 
above  all  the  rest,  and  they  were  in  general  agreement  as  to  the 
order  in  which  the  others  followed.  According  to  La  Condamine, 
and  Reiss  and  Stiibel,  Altar,  Saugai  and  Illiniza  were  next  in 
rank. 

1 The  descending  rate  is  not  known,  on  account  of  the  detour.  We  left  the 
summit  at  11.35  a.m.  ; arrived  on  Pointe  Jarrin  at  2.40  p.m.  ; stopped  thirty 
minutes,  and  then  went  down  in  another  half-hour  to  the  camp. 


23<> 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xii. 


In  the  Geoyrafia  de  la  Republica  del  Ecuador  of  Dr.  M.  Yilla- 
vicencio  I had,  however,  lighted  upon  a reference  to  a mountain 
called  Sara-urcu,  which  is  not,  I believe,  mentioned  either  by 
La  Condamine,  Humboldt  or  Boussingault.  Its  height,  according 
to  Villavicencio,  was  17,270  feet  (0210  varas).  As  this  closely 
approximated  to  the  elevation  assigned  to  Altar,  Sangai  and 
Illiniza,  it  seemed  not  impossible  that  the  mountain  might  prove 
to  be  the  fifth  in  rank  ; and  before  quitting  the  neighbourhood 
I proposed  to  hunt  it  down,  being  the  more  moved  to  do  so 
because  it  was  said  to  be  situated  well  to  the  east,  and  might 
afford  another  chance  of  having  a glimpse  of  the  great,  unknown 
Amazonian  basin. 

At  Quito  I wras  unable  to  procure  any  information  as  to  the 
location  of  Sara-urcu.  Few  persons  were  acquainted  with  the 
name ; but  when  Seiior  Espinosa  heard  me  mention  it  he  said 
that  the  mountain  (and  all  the  country  to  the  east)  belonged  to 
him,  and  that  he  would  indicate  its  direction.  When  we  first 
started  for  Cayambe,  Seiior  Espinosa  did  point  out  a vague 
something  in  the  clouds  which  he  said  was  Sara-urcu.  We  did 
not  actually  see  the  mountain  until  the  4th  of  April,  and  then 
it  appeared  only  for  a few  seconds,  just  long  enough  to  obtain 
an  idea  of  its  position.  In  those  few  seconds  ive  saw  that  we 
should  in  all  probability  be  able  to  ascend  it,  if  its  base  could 
be  reached. 

Before  leaving  Cayambe,  I sent  Jean-Antoine  with  David  in 
advance,  to  see  if  they  could  light  upon  another  camping-place 
in  the  right  direction  ; retaining  Louis  and  Verity  to  assist  in 
•collecting.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  camp  (that  is  to  say, 
either  a little  above  or  below  15,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea)  ive  found  the  nine  beetles  that  are  mentioned  below,1 

i *Colpodes  pustulosus,  Bates  ( Supp • App.,  p.  14);  *C.  rotundiceps,  Bates  (p.  15); 
*C.  fuxipulpis,  Bates  (p.  17);  C.  steno,  Bates  (p.  20,  with  Figure);  * Tree  hus  sp.  ; 
Bembidium  ftdvoeinctum,  Bates  (p.  22);  Naupactus  parvicollis,  Olliff  (p.  67); 
* Lislroderes  inconspicuus,  Olliff  (p.  69)  ; and  Erirrhinus  glaber,  Olliff  (p.  76). 
Those  marked  by  asterisks  were  found  only  on  Cayambe. 


CHAP.  XII. 


COLPODES. 


237 


including  three  species  of  Colpodes  which  were  obtained  only  at 
this  locality.  We  had  already  obtained  members  of  this  genus 
at  great  heights  on  several  other  mountains,  and  on  Pichincha 
had  been  struck  by  the  fact  that ' they  existed  in  considerable 
numbers  amongst  frozen  soil.  The  two  which  have  been  named 
by  Mr.  Bates  C.  megacephalus  and  C.  Pichinchce  came  from 
Guagua-Pichincha,  the  former  from  the  summit-ridge  (at  15,000 
feet),  and  the  latter  from  the  second  camp  (14,992  feet).  In 
each  case  they  were  discovered  whilst  breaking  out  rock  speci- 
mens, and  were  found  in  colonies,  thriving  amongst  stones  which 
were  cemented  together  with  ice.  Some  species  of  Colpodes  come 
from  more  genial  zones,  but  the  larger  part  of  those  we  obtained 
enjoyed  life  under  very  frigid  conditions.  The  minima  of  the 
four  nights  Ap.  2-Ap.  5 inclusive,  were  27°,  31°,  24° ’5,  and  24° 
Faht.  respectively,  degrees  of  cold  sufficient  to  hard  freeze  the 
surface  of  the  soil  ; which,  further,  was  usually  covered  with  snow 
in  the  morning. 

The  scouts  returned,  bringing  a good  report ; declaring  that 
they  had  found  a regular  palace  — an  old  Indian  dwelling,  planted 
all  round  with  shrubs  — which  would  permit  the  tents  to  be 
dispensed  with  ; and  we  broke  up  camp  on  the  6th,  to  go  to 
this  wonderful  place,  expecting  they  had  either  dropped  upon 
an  edifice  of  prehistoric  age,  or  on  some  relic  of  the  dusky  Incas. 


CHARMS  ? 


LA  DORMIDA  DE  MAYORAZZO. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  SAKA-URCU. 

tTpox  leaving  Cayambe  on  the  Ctli  of  April,  we  came  down  three 
thousand  feet  by  a buttress  or  ridge  running  out  towards  the 
south-south-west,  and  then  turned  to  the  east ; camping  that 
night  in  the  * palace  surrounded  by  shrubs  ’ — the  structure 
represented  at  the  head  of  this  chapter  — which  was  called  La 
Dormida  (the  sleeping-place)  de  Mayorazzo  (11,805  feet),  a good 
thing  of  its  kind,  though  not  very  palatial ; and  at  this  lower 
level  we  got  again  into  a warmer  climate.  In  the  daytime 
temperature  was  higher  than  50°  Falit.,  and  the  lowest  minimum 
was  well  above  freezing-point  (38° "5). 

La  Dormida  was  a hut  occasionally  used  by  herdsmen  when 
searching  for  strayed  cattle,  and  was  situated  in  a wood  — almost 
a forest ; surrounded  by  fallen  and  decayed  trunks,  laden  with 


chap.  xiii.  GONZALO  PIZARRO  CROSSES  THE  ANDES. 


239 


mosses1  growing  luxuriantly,  thickly  caked  and  interlaced  upon 
the  rotten  hark.  In  the  clearing  around  the  edifice  little  birds 
hopped  about  fearlessly,  and  at  night  clouds  of  moths2  sailed 
into  the  tent,  attracted  by  the  lights. 

The  valley  in  which  La  Dormida  is  situated  forms  the 
southern  boundary  of  Cayambe  ; and  at  its  head,  two  or  three 
milefc  more  to  the  east,  there  is  the  divide  or  water-parting  of 
the  streams  flowing  into  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic.  The  whole 
of  the  drainage  of  the  eastern  side  of  Cayambe  goes  into  the 

Atlantic.  Most  of  the  streams  flowing  down  its  southern  slopes, 
and  all  of  those  upon  its  west,  fall  into  the  Pacific. 

Somewhere  not  far  away,  perhaps  over  this  very  ground, 

Gonzalo  Pizarro,  1 the  most  dexterous  with  the  lance  of  any  man 
that  ever  passed  into  the  New  World/  ‘ the  most  beloved  man 
in  all  Peru/  crossed  the  Andes  in  1540  (it  is  said)  with  340 

Spaniards,  4000  Indians,  and  about  4000  Swine,  to  look  for 
‘ the  Land  of  Cinnamon  ’ ; on  the  memorable  expedition  which 
resulted  in  the  discovery  of  the  River  Amazons  by  his  lieutenant 
Orellana,  and  in  the  death  of  the  greater  part  of  the  explorers.3 

The  exact  route  taken  by  Gonzalo  Pizarro  cannot  I think 

be  told  with  certainty  from  the  relation  of  Garcilasso  de  la 
Vega.4  It  is,  however,  certain  that  he  crossed  and  recrossed  the 

■ Thuicliurn  delicatulum,  Lindb.  ; SematophyUum  subscabrum,  Mitt.  ; S.  pungens, 
Mitt.  ; Didymodon,  near  acutifolius,  Jaeg.  ; P/rotrichum  variabile,  Hampe;  Neckera 
Jamesoni,  Tayl.  ; Lejeunia  sp. ; Aneura  sp.  ; and  Dicranum  speciosum,  Hook.  & 
Wils. 

3 Eurimene  excelsa,  var.  (very  numerous)  ; Halsidota  suffusa,  II. S.  ; Agrotis  sp. ; 
Epiolus  sordilus,  H.S.  ; and  others. 

3 See  The  Royal  Commentaries  of  Peru,  by  Garcilasso  de  la  Vega  (translated  by 
Sir  Paul  Rycaut),  fol.,  Loud.,  1688,  pp.  601-7,  631-3. 

4 It  is  said  that  upon  starting  Pizarro  went  through  ‘ the  Province  of  Quixos, 
which  lies  North  from  Quitu  ’ ; that  he  returned  to  the  north  of  his  outward 
route ; and  that  when  he  re-arrived  in  the  interior  some  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Quito  went  thirty  leagues  to  succour  him.  Little  dependence,  I imagine,  can  be 
placed  upon  the  figures.  Inasmuch  as  the  trail  through  Papallacta  is  the  only 
known  way  across  the  Eastern  Andes,  at  the  present  time,  in  the  neighbourhood 


240 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiii. 


Andes  somewhere  near  the  Equator  ; and  that  this  valiant  leader, 
and  his  picked  band  of  hardy  adventurers,  found  that  to  over- 
come the  natural  difficulties  of  the  region  was  a harder  task 
than  the  Conquest  of  Peru.  “ The  most  irresistible  of  all  was 
Hunger,  that  grievous  and  cruel  Enemy  of  Man  and  Beast, 
which  hath  been  so  fatal  to  both  in  that  uninhabited  Countrey.  ” 1 
From  what  we  could  learn  of  the  people  of  Cayambe  (and 
this  was  very  little)  the  natural  difficulties  of  the  neighbourhood 
had  not  been  overstated.  It  was  not  of  course  for  a moment 
believed  that  we  were  attracted  here  by  any  such  ridiculously 
transparent  motive  as  the  determination  of  the  elevation  of  a 
mountain.  In  their  eyes  there  was  another  allurement.  Sara- 
urcu  was  said  to  contain  boundless  riches — much  gold  and  silver 
— which,  it  was  delicately  hinted,  we  might  perhaps  discover. 
Upon  arrival  at  La  Dormida  two  men  were  found  in  waiting  ‘ to 
assist’  us.  One  of  them  — a very  old  Indian  — being  physically 
an  infant,  I sent  back  to  his  village.  The  other  was  a tough- 
looking half-breed,  whom  I called  ‘ The  Spy  ’ ; and  in  order  that 
he  might  do  that  for  which  he  was  sent  I despatched  him,  with 

of  the  Equator,  it  seems  probable  that  Gonzalo  Pizarro  went  by  that  route.  It 
is  still  customary  for  persons  proceeding  by  it  to  go  a few  miles  to  the  north  on 
leaving  Quito,  though  they  speedily  bear  round  to  the  east.  The  words  Rio  de 
los  Quixos  will  be  found  on  the  Maldonado  map,  to  the  east  of  Antisana. 

1 “ By  reason  of  the  continual  Rains,  and  moisture  of  the  Earth,  their  woollen 
Cloths  and  linen  being  always  wet,  became  rotten,  and  dropped  from  their  Bodies, 
so  that  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest  every  Man  was  naked,  and  had  no  other 
covering  than  some  few  Leaves.  . . So  great,  and  so  insupportable  were  the  Miseries 
which  Gonzalo  Pizarro  and  his  Companions  endured  for  want  of  Food,  that  the 
four  thousand  Indians  which  attended  him  in  this  Discovery,  perished  with  Famine. 

. . Likewise  of  the  three  hundred  and  forty  Spaniards  which  entred  on  this 
Discovery,  two  hundred  and  ten  dyed,  besides  the  fifty  which  were  carried  away 
by  Orellana.  . . Their  Swords  the}'  carried  without  Scabbards,  all  covered  with 
rust,  and  they  walked  barefoot,  and  their  Visages  were  become  so  black,  dry  and 
withered,  that  they  scarce  knew  one  the  other ; in  which  condition  they  came  at 
length  to  the  Frontiers  of  Quilu,  where  they  kissed  the  Ground,  and  returned 
Thanks  to  Almighty  God,  who  had  delivered  them  out  of  so  many  and  so  imminent 
dangers.” — The  Royal  Commentaries  of  Peru,  p.  632. 


CHAP.  XIII. 


A CAMP  IN  A SWAMP. 


241 


most  of  the  others,  on  the  7th,  8th,  and  9th  to  explore  in  the 
direction  of  Sara-urcu. 

At  this  time  I was  feverish,  and  found  my  internals  going 
wrong,  from  the  last  few  days’  experiences ; and  remained  in 
the  hut  under  a pile  of  ponchos,  directing  operations.  The 
scouts  came  back  with  bad  reports.  The  animals,  they  said, 
could  go  no  farther ; there  was  an  end  to  paths  and  trails,  except 
occasional  wild-beast  tracks  ; there  was  nothing  whatever  to  eat, 
and  everything  must  be  carried ; there  was  no  place  to  camp 
upon,  the  whole  country  was  a dismal  swamp  ; and  everlasting 
rain  was  falling  ; so  much  so  that,  although  they  supposed  they 
had  been  near  to  Sara-urcu,  they  were  quite  unable  to  be  sure. 
On  discussion,  it  was  concluded  that  the  tents  must  be  left 
behind,  as  we  were  not  strong  enough  to  carry  both  them,  the 
wraps  and  food.  Hence  it  was  indispensable  to  find  a place 
which  would  afford  some  protection  against  weather,  and  wild- 
animals  ; and  on  the  third  day  they  reported  an  overhanging 
cliff  which  would  answer  sufficiently  well.  It  was  arranged  that 
Cevallos  should  remain  at  La  Dormida  to  care  for  his  beasts, 
with  the  Jovial  Man  to  go  to  and  fro  between  the  village  and 
the  hut  transporting  provisions,  which  were  to  be  brought  to 
the  front  by  Verity  and  the  Spy  ; while  David  acted  as  camp- 
keeper  at  the  advanced  post,  and  the  Carrels  and  I pursued 
exploration. 

April  10.  From  La  Dormida  towards  Corredor  Machai.  We 
made  a forward  move,  leaving  Cevallos  and  his  assistant  at  the 
hut  to  tend  the  animals  and  keep  up  communications  ; half  of 
the  rest  going  in  advance,  while  the  others  including  myself 
waited  for  some  additional  food  from  Cavambe  village.  This 
arrived  late,  and  delayed  us  so  much  that  we  could  not  reach 
the  next  camping-place  by  nightfall,  and  had  to  stop  in  a swamp, 
on  a spot  where,  if  you  stood  still,  you  sank  up  to  the  knees 
in  slime.  This  place  was  just  on  the  divide,  nearly  13,000  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  during  the  greater  part  of  the  eleven  hours 

2 I 


242 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  crap.  xiii. 


night  sleet  or  rain  fell,  rendering  it  well-nigh  impossible  to  keep 
np  a fire  out  of  the  sodden  materials.  For  me  the  men  con- 
structed a sort  of  floating  bed,  cutting  down  reeds,  and  crossing 
and  recrossing  them,  piling  them  up  until  they  no  longer  sank 
in  the  slime.  For  themselves  they  made  smaller  platforms  of  a 
similar  description,  and  sat  on  their  heels  during  the  whole  night, 
trying  to  keep  up  a fire. 

April  11.  At  Corredor  Machai.  We  advanced  and  rejoined 
the  others,  having  to  pass  through  country  more  difficult  than 
any  we  had  hitherto  traversed.  The  land  was  entirely  marshy, 
even  where  the  slopes  were  considerable  ; and  upon  it  there  was 
growing  a reedy  grass  to  the  height  of  eight  to  ten  feet,1  in 
such  dense  masses  as  to  be  nearly  impenetrable.  The  machetas 
were  found  inadequate.  It  would  have  taken  several  weeks’ 
labour  of  our  whole  party  to  have  cleared  a track  over  a single 
mile.  The  only  way  of  getting  through  was  by  continually 
parting  the  reeds  with  the  hands  (as  if  swimming),  and  as  they 
were  exceedingly  stiff  they  sprang  back  directly  we  let  go,  and 
shut  us  out  from  each  other’s  sight.  The  edges  of  the  leaves 
cut  like  razors,  and  in  a short  time  our  hands  were  streaming 
with  blood,  for  we  were  compelled  to  grasp  the  stems  to  pre- 
vent ourselves  from  sinking  into  the  boggy  soil.  On  this  day 
we  crossed  the  divide,  and  the  streams  now  flowed  towards  the 
Atlantic.  The  whole  country  was  like  a saturated  sponge. 

We  joined  the  others  in  due  course,  under  an  overhanging 
cliff  of  silver}'  mica-slate,2  which  we  afterwards  found  was  known 
by  the  name  of  Corredor  Machai,  or  the  hunter’s  refuge.  It 

1 This  has  been  identified  by  Prof.  D.  Oliver  with  the  Chusquea  aristata  of 
Munro, — a reedy  grass  which  is  only  known  to  grow  in  this  region. 

2 “ A rather  fine-grained  micaceous  gneiss.  The  slaty  formation  is  evidently 
due  to  a rough  cleavage  traversing  the  rock,  on  the  planes  of  which  a silvery  mica 
has  been  rather  largely  developed.  . . The  structure  of  the  rock  is  perplexing : 
it  must  undoubtedly  be  classed  with  the  crystalline  schists,  but  I suspect  that 
the  very  marked  schistosity  is  a secondary  development  due  to  crushing.” — Prof.  T. 
G.  Bonney,  Pruc.  Royal  Soc.,  Nov.  27,  1884. 


BEDROC 


CHAP.  XIII. 


WE  ARE  TICKLED. 


243 


was  almost  the  only  spot  where  it  was  possible  to  camp,  and  it 
afforded  good  protection  on  one  side,  of  which  we  were  glad,  as 
there  were  numerous  tracks  of  bears,  pumas  and 
other  wild-beasts  about.  The  lurch  forward  of  the 
cliff  prevented  rain  falling  directly  upon  ns,  unless 
it  blew  from  the  north-east ; but  everything  burn- 
able was  dripping  with  moisture,1  and  the  sur- 
rounding land  was  so  wet  that  water  oozed  or  even 
squirted  out  in  jets  when  it  was  trodden  upon. 

Corredor  Machai  was  placed  on  the  southern  side  of 
a small  valley,  descending  north-west,  with  several 
depressions  (passes  ?)  at  its  head. 

At  mid  - day  despatched  two  men  across  the 
valley  to  advance  provisions  in  the  direction  in 
which  we  supposed  Sara-urcu  was  situated.  It  had 
not  yet  been  seen,  and  our  view  was  limited  by 
the  mists  to  the  immediate  surroundings.  They 
returned  with  a human  skull  which  they  had  picked 
up  not  far  away.  “ I know  that  skull,”  said  the 
Spy  ; ‘‘it  belonged  to  a man  who  went  out  search- 
ing for  quinine  bark.  There  were  twenty  of  them 
altogether,  and  four  came  back.  This  one  laid  down 
to  sleep,  a snow-storm  came  on,  and  he  did  not 
wake  again.”8  Sent  some  of  the  people  to  bring 
up  more  food  from  La  Dormida,  and  made  the  rest 
hew  down  reeds  to  construct  ‘ one  man  bed-rooms.’ 

Laid  the  reeds  sloping  against  the  foot  of  the  cliff, 
leaving  room  enough  behind  to  creep  into.  Many 
spiders  about  ; some  very  ticklish.  Examined  one 
with  a lens,  and  found  out  why. 


1 ( 


fits 


A HIND-LEG  OF  A 
SPIDER  FROM 
CORREDOR  MACHAI. 


1 We  found  paraffin  oil  of  great  use  in  starting  fires  when  fuel  was  damp.  It 
was  employed  here,  and  at  all  our  high  camps.  A few  pints  of  it  were  always 
carried. 

2 Searching  for  Cbiuchona  trees,  to  strip  them  of  their  bark,  is  a favourite 
occupation  in  this  country. 


244 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xm. 


April  12.  Corrector  Macliai  to  Camp  on  Sara-urcu.  Advanced 
with  the  Carrels  to  the  place  where  food  was  deposited  yesterday, 
and  left  the  others  at  Corredor  Machai  to  keep  up  communica- 
tions. Whilst  descending  to  the  bottom  of  our  valley,  saw  a 
large  bear  walking  along  the  other  side,  going  straight  ahead 
through  the  reeds  as  if  they  interposed  no  obstacle.  Shouted 
to  it,  but  it  scarcely  deigned  to  notice  us,  and  only  just  turned 
its  head  aside  for  a moment,  and  went  on  into  a thicket  of 
scrub.  Tracks  of  wild  animals  afforded  assistance,  as  the  reeds 
had  often  been  trodden  down.  Passed  several  cattle  lairs.  The 
slopes  here  were  as  swampy  as  upon  the  other  side. 

Seldom  saw  two  hundred  yards  in  any  direction  on  this  day. 
Rain  fell  incessantly  in  a steady  mizzle.  Encamped  in  the 
afternoon  against  a bit  of  cliff  with  very  slightly  overhanging 
rock,  at  the  height  of  13,754  feet,1  not  knowing  where  we  were, 
though  believing  we  were  close  upon  Sara-urcu.  No  fire  possible. 
Minimum  in  night  35°  ; and,  at  6 a.m.  on  the  13th,  36°'5  Faht. 

April  13.  In  Camp  on  Sara-urcu . Made  small  excursions, 
to  find  out  where  we  were.  Discovered  nothing,  beyond  a large 
glacier  on  the  north,  which  we  conjectured  proceeded  from  our 
mountain.  Sent  the  Carrels  out  in  different  directions  exploring, 
and  endeavoured  to  improve  shelter.  Built  a low  wall  of  clods 
and  stones  round  the  open  side, — an  addition  which  made  the 
place  as  comfortable  as  an  ordinary  ditch  on  a winter’s  night. 

-Tean-Antoine  came  back  hurriedly  in  the  afternoon,  looking 
behind  him  nervously.  “ Why,  Carrel,  man,  what  is  the  matter  ?” 
“Monsieur,”  said  he,  “just  now  I was  over  there,  looking  at 
the  glacier  to  find  a way  down,  when  I heard  a noise  behind, 
and  turning  round  saw  two  big  bulls  a few  yards  off,  with 
their  heads  down,  ready  to  pitch  me  over  the  precipice.  I ran 
away  up  a rock,  and  they  came  after  me  ; and  one  stood  on  one 

1 The  Mercurial  Barometer  at  6 p.m.  on  April  12  (reduced  to  32°  Faht.)  read 
18-278  inches,  air  temperature  40°  Faht.  The  simultaneous  reading  at  Guayaquil 
(red.  to  32°)  was  29'917  inches,  air  temperature  78°  Faht. 


CHAP.  XIII. 


INCESSANT  RAINS. 


245 


side,  and  tlie  other  on  the  other  ; and  when  I tried  to  escape 
on  one  side  they  both  came  there,  and  when  I tried  the  other 
side  they  both  went  there,  but  at  last  I escaped,  and  here  I 
am,  quite  out  of  breath.”  “Monsieur,”  he  said,  “on  my  word 
of  honour,  they  were  as  fat  as  butter,  and  skipped  about  like 
chamois  ! ” 

April  14.  From  Camp  on  Sara-urcu  to  Corrector  Machai.  It 
rained  all  night.  Temperature  in  our  hole  was  36°  ‘75  Faht.  at 
daybreak.  This  was  a miserable  place  for  protection  against  the 
weather.  Nothing  reasonably  overhanging  could  be  found.  The 
loose  stones,  lying  about,  were  either  boulders  too  large  to  move, 
or  too  small  to  be  of  use.  Shelter  consisted  solely  of  our  three 
mackintosh  ponchos,  suspended  from  the  Manilla  rope.  Large 
seams  of  massive  quartz  were  a feature  here.  Nothing  more 
golden  was  found  than  some  glittering  pyrites. 

Bain  continued  without  intermission.  No  one  at  Cayambe 
had  spoken  about  these  incessant  rains.  From  the  aspect  of  the 
country  (so  different  from  any  other  part  of  Ecuador),  from 
the  saturation  of  the  hills,  the  innumerable  small  pools,  streamlets 
and  springs,  I am  convinced  they  are  nearly  perpetual.  Being 
thoroughly  sodden,  and  without  the  means  of  drying  ourselves, 
we  descended  in  the  afternoon  to  Corredor  Machai.  Arrived 
drenched  from  the  waist  downwards. 

Occasional  glimpses  of  the  country  to  the  south  (between 
Sara-urcu  and  Antisana)  shewed  that  it  contained  a number 
of  small  ranges,  without  any  single  peak  rising  notably  higher 
than  the  rest.  Many  were  loftier  than  our  station,  and  the 
highest  are  probably  about  14,500  feet  above  the  sea.  No 
mountain  was  snow-covered,  though  there  were  numerous  small 
patches  of  snow  upon  many  of  the  peaks.  I imagine  that  this 
district  is  entirely  uninhabited. 

Found  live  men  who  had  come  up  with  a letter  to  Verity 
from  the  Jefo-politico,  saying  that  there  was  a strong  report 
in  the  village  that  we  were  lost.  Got  rid  of  them  as  soon  as 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xm. 


246 

possible,  as  they  brought  nothing,  and  ate  up  food  we  wanted. 
People  grumbling,  and  wanting  to  return. 

April  15.  At  Corredor  Machai.  Started  Verity  and  David 
at  4 a.m.  to  hurry  up  provisions,  as  we  are  now  reduced  to 
biscuit  and  water.  It  continued  to  rain  incessantly.  This 
night  while  dozing  in  my  den,  I thought  the  stars  had  at  last 
come  out.  Found  that  the  light  proceeded  from  a luminous 
beetle.  Caught  it,  and  put  it  into  methylated  spirit.1 

“ Disputes  have  been,  and  still  prevail, 

From  whence  his  rays  proceed, 

Some  give  that  honour  to  his  tail, 

And  others  to  his  head.” 

Or,  at  least,  so  says  a Poet.  Though  this  insect  must  have 
expired  in  a minute  or  two  after  immersion,  it  glowed  for 
several  hours  ; and  gave  enough  light  to  tell  the  time  by  my 
watch,  and  to  read  the  small  writing  in  my  Journal.  The  light 
was  emitted  from  the  two  abdominal  segments  next  above  the 
lowest  one.  Min.  temp,  at  night  39° -5  Faht. 

April  1C.  At  Corredor  Machai.  At  mid-day  temperature 
rose  to  58°  Faht. ! In  the  afternoon,  the  Jovial  Man  and  the 
Spy  arrived  with  meat,  bread,  and  other  things  just  at  the 
right  time,  and  soon  afterwards  it  left  off  raining.  With  the 
exception  of  about  twelve  hours  in  all,  it  has  rained  continu- 
ously from  the  night  of  the  10th  until  now.  At  4 p.m.  mists 
cleared  away  a little,  and  at  5 we  saw  Sara-urcu.  Got  its 
bearing  and  sketched  it.2  In  a few  minutes  the  mountain  was 
invisible  again.  Arranged  for  a forced  march  to-morrow. 

All  the  reeds  round  about  our  platform  at  the  base  of  the 
cliff  had  been  cut  or  beaten  down,  so  that  the  view  should  not 
be  impeded.  The  mountain  appeared  nearly  in  the  place  we 

1 Mr.  Gorham  identifies  this  insect  as  a male  Thotinus  longipennis  of  Motschul- 
sky,  and  says  it  is  common  in  Colombia.  I had  previously  obtained  a female  at 
La  Dormida.  See  Supp.  App.,  p.  48. 

2 It  was  useless  to  try  to  photograph  in  this  misty  atmosphere.  One  could 
not  work  with  the  camera  with  the  same  certainty  as  with  the  pencil. 


CIIAP.  XIII. 


SARA  - URCU. 


247 


expected,  on  the  northern  side 
and  at  the  head  of  the  valley. 
Saw  that  it  was  surrounded 
by  glaciers  on  the  south.  The 
summit  seemed  to  be  a sharp  snow  peak.  This 
appearance  we  knew  was  delusive. 

April  17.  Ascent  of  Sara-urcu.  Left  Corredor 
Machai  at  5.30  a.m.  Foggy.  Went  as  before 
across  the  valley,  a little  to  the  north  of  east. 
Rain  fell  G to  8 a.m.  Passed  camp  on  Sara-urcu 
at  8.55,  picking  up  necessaries  which  had  been 
left  there  in  readiness.  Then  steered  east  ; rounded  the  slopes 


248 


Tit  A VELS  AMONGST  TIIE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  xiii. 


of  the  ridge  bounding  the  southern  side  of  the  large  glacier  pro- 
ceeding from  our  mountain  ; passed  the  base  of  a small  lateral 
glacier  and  took  to  the  ice  at  10.50  a.m.  Put  on  the  rope. 
Could  not  see  a hundred  yards  in  any  direction.  Steered  east- 
south-east. 

The  summit  of  Sara-urcu  bore  almost  exactly  due  east  from 
Corredor  Machai,  and  an  east-south-east  course  was  calculated 
to  bring  us  right  upon  it.  To  return  steering  by  compass  was 
more  dubious.  We  did  not  apprehend  losing  ourselves  on  land  ; 
nor  upon  snow  and  glacier,  even  in  a fog,  if  our  track  was  not 
obliterated.  There  was  every  probability  that  it  would  be 
quickly  effaced  ; while  it  would  be  necessary,  to  escape  from  the 
glacier,  to  hit  off  the  exact  place  where  we  took  to  it.  It  was 
by  no  means  certain  that  we  could  do  this,  trusting  to  the  com- 
pass alone  ; for  it  is  very  difficult  to  hold  to  one  general  course 
in  a fog,  when  courses  have  to  be  changed  every  other  minute, 
as  they  must  necessarily  be  upon  crevassed  glacier. 


TURNING  AN  ENEMY  TO  ACCOUNT. 


CHAP.  XIII. 


ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  SARA-URCU. 


249 


another  as  soon  as  the  last  one  he  had  fixed  became  dim. 

AVhile  this  scarcely  hindered  progress,  it  allowed  us  to  proceed 
with  greater  confidence.  We  rose  steadily,  crossing  many  cre- 

vasses ; and  when  about  15,000  feet  high  suddenly  emerged 
from  the  clouds,  and  found  ourselves  face  to  face  with  the 
pointed  snow  peak.  Behind  this,  a wall  of  snow 1 led  to  the 

true  top. 

With  out-turned  toes  we  went  cautiously  along  the  crisp  arete, 
sharp  as  a roof-top,  and  at  1.30  p.m.  stood  on  the  true  summit 
of  Sara-urcu ; a shattered  ridge  of  gneiss — wonder  of  wonders, 
blue  sky  above 2 — strewn  with  fragments  of  quartz,  and  mica- 
schist  similar  to  that  at  Corredor  Machai,3  without  a trace  of 

vegetation.  The  usual  atmospheric  conditions  prevailed.  Cay- 
ambe  and  all  the  rest  was  shut  out  by  unfathomable,  impenetrable 
mists,  limiting  the  view  to  a few  hundred  yards  around  the 
summit,  which  was  surrounded  by  glaciers  on  all  sides.4  Tem- 
perature rose  and  fell  as  puffs  of  steamy  air  came  from  the 
great  cauldron  on  the  east.  The  barometer  stood  at  17 ‘230 
inches,5  and  thus  it  was  clear  that  Sara-urcu  was  not  the  fifth 

1 This  is  nearly  concealed  in  the  view  upon  p.  247. 

2 But  no  sunshine.  The  sun,  I believe,  was  not  seen  by  us  from  the  5th  to 
the  20th  of  April. 

3 In  the  moraine  at  the  margin  of  the  ice  where  we  first  took  to  the  glacier 
there  was  much  ferruginous  quartz,  and  iron  pyrites,  the  origin  perhaps  of  the 
rumoured  treasures  of  Sara-urcu. 

The  rock  in  situ  at  the  summit  was  “a  rather  fine-grained  gneiss,  containing 
quartz,  felspar,  dark  mica,  with  probably  a little  chlorite  and  epidote.  . . All  the 
specimens  brought  from  Sara-urcu  are  metamorphic  rocks.  They  do  not,  indeed, 
belong  to  the  earliest  types,  such  as  the  coarse  gneisses  of  the  Hebrides,  but  still 
they  are  greatly  altered.” — Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney,  in  Proc.  Royal  Soc.,  Nov.  27,  1884. 

4 We  could  not  at  any  time  see  the  full  length  of  the  large  glacier  on  the  west 
of  Sara-urcu,  or  even  across  it.  It  appeared  to  bend  round  towards  the  north.  The 
glaciers  on  the  south  side  of  the  mountain  are  small.  There  was  another  one, 
descending  towards  the  north-east,  which,  so  far  as  could  be  seen,  was  more 
considerable. 

6 On  April  17,  at  1.45  p.m.,  the  Mercurial  Barometer  (reduced  to  32°  Faht.) 
read  17'230  inches,  air  temperature  46°  Faht.  The  11  a.m.  and  6 p.m.  observations 

2 K 


250 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiii. 


in  rank  of  the  Andes  of  the  Equator,  and  indeed  was  less  in 
height  than  several  of  the  minor  peaks  which  had  been  already 
ascended. 

Surprised  by  darkness  before  we  could  arrive  at  Corredor 
Machai,  another  miserable  night  had  to  be  passed  at  the  upper 
station.  On  the  18th  we  descended,  and  took  ourselves  off  as 
speedily  as  possible.  After  the  reed,  the  chief  Botanical  feature 
of  the  valley  in  which  the  ‘ Hunter’s  refuge  ’ was  placed  was  the 
extraordinary  manner  in  which  the  twigs  and  branches  of  such 
trees  as  were  there  were  laden — almost  stifled — with  the  lichen 
Usnea  barbata,  Fries.  This  lichen  and  the  Chusquea  were  the  two 
dominant  species,  and  put  nearly  everything  else  out  of  sight. 
The  flora  here  is  probably  extensive.  Close  to  the  rock  there 
were  Currant  bushes  in  flower,  a Fuchsia  ( F Loxensis,  H.B.K.) 
at  the  greatest  height  these  plants  were  seen,  and  Ferns  were 
numerous,  although  concealed.1  But  all  the  botanical  treasures 
in  Ecuador  would  not  have  enticed  us  to  stop.  We  turned  our 
backs  on  this  super-saturated  place  with  the  greatest  possible 
pleasure  ; passed  the  nights  of  the  18tli  and  19th  at  La  Dormida, 
and  on  the  2()th  returned  to  Cayambe  village,  understanding 
better  than  when  we  left  it  why  Gonzalo  Pizarro  kissed  the  ground 
when  he  stood  again  on  terra  firma. 

Such  information  as  I brought  from  Sara-urcu  differs  materi- 

at  Guayaquil  (red.  to  32°  F.)  were  29  912  and  29-859  inches,  air  temperatures, 
respectively,  being  80°  and  81°  Faht.  During  our  stay  on  the  summit,  temperature 
fluctuated  between  43° '5 — 55°  Faht. 

Flies,  evidently  stragglers,  of  three  distinct  species  were  captured  on  the  summit. 
Like  the  rest  of  the  Diptera,  they  remain  undescribed. 

1 The  following  were  some  of  the  more  common  species  round  about  Corredor 
Machai.  Lichens : — Bteomyces  imbricatus,  Hooker  (abundant)  ; Parmelia  Kam- 
tscbadaUs,  Eschw.;  Sticta  laciniata,  Ach.  (abundant) ; Sticfa  sp.;  and  Usnea  barbata, 
Fries  (very  abundant).  Mosses: — Breutelia  sp. ; Daltotiia  bilimbata , Ilampe  ; 
Hypntim  cupressi forme,  Linn.,  var.  ; II.  Schreberi,  Willd.  (abundant);  Metzgcria 
clavceflora,  Spruce;  31/iium  rostratum,  Schrad.;  Plagiochila  sp.;  and  Rhizogoniiim 
mnioides,  Schimp.  Ferns: — Cheilanthcs  scariosa,  Kaulf. ; Hymcnophyllum  sericeum, 
Sw.;  and  Polypodium  subsessile,  Baker. 


CHAP.  XIII. 


THE  HEIGHT  OF  SARA-URCU. 


251 


ally  from  the  statements  made  about  that  mountain  by  Villavi- 
cencio.  He  gives  in  his  Geografia  6210  varas  as  its  height ; 1 upon 
his  map,  places  it  south  of  east  of  Quito  and  south-south-west  of 
Cayambe  (mountain),  near  Papallacta  ; he  quotes  from  Velasco 2 
to  the  effect  that  it  was  a volcano  which  formerly  emitted  fire, 
and  he  says  it  has  latterly  ejected  ashes,  producing  consternation 
in  the  Capital,  whence  it  is  distant  thirty-five  miles.3  I found 
that  Sara-urcu  is  only  15,502  feet  high,  and  is  placed  south-east 
by  south  of  Cayambe  (mountain)  ; that  it  is  not  a volcano,  and 
cannot  have  emitted  fire  and  ejected  ashes ; and  that  it  lies  con- 
siderably to  the  north  of  east  of  Quito,  at  the  distance  of  about 
forty-five  English  miles.  Instead  of  being  the  fifth  in  altitude 
of  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator,  it  proved  to  be  the  lowest  of 
all  the  snow-peaks,  and  considerably  inferior  in  elevation  to 
several  which  scarcely  reach  the  snow-line. 

Before  we  left  Cayambe  I pursued  enquiries  for  Cyclopium 
( Pimelodus ) cyclopum.  In  the  first  volume  of  the  Zoology  of 
Humboldt  and  Bonpland’s  Journey,  a description,4  and  a figure 
drawn  on  the  spot  by  Humboldt  himself,  of  this  fish  are  given, 
which  is  said  (p.  23)  to  be  the  only  one  found  in  the  ‘ Kingdom 
of  Quito’  at  heights  above  8752  feet  (1400  toises).  This  state- 
ment is  in  itself  somewhat  remarkable,  and  the  information  which 


1 Reckoning  the  vara  at  2 782  English  feet,  6210  varas  are  equal  to  17,276 
English  feet.  I am  not  aware  what  foundation  he  had  for  this  statement. 
Possibly,  he  heard  that  the  mountain  bore  large  glaciers,  and  conjectured  that  its 
elevation  must  be  near  those  of  the  other  glacier-bearing  Andes. 

2 I have  not  been  able  to  find  a reference  to  this  mountain  in  Velasco. 

3 “Segun  refiere  el  P.  Velasco  en  su  liistoria  de  Quito,  este  volcan  ha  arrojado 
llamas  por  dos  veces ; mas,  en  estos  liltimos  anos,  ha  arrojado  gran  cantidad  de 
cenizas  volcdnicas,  por  Dieiembre  de  1843,  i por  el  mismo  ines,  en  1856.  La  primera 
de  estas  erupciones  duro  dos  dias,  i puso  en  mueha  cousternacion  a los  habitantes 
de  Quito,  i a sus  pueblos  cireumvecinos.  La  altura  de  esta  rnontana  es  de  6210 
varas  sobre  el  mar.  . . Esta  situado  a 35  millas  E.  de  Quito.”—  Geografia  de  la 
li/publka  del  Ecuador,  por  Manuel  Villavicencio,  8vo,  New  York,  1858,  pp.  52-53. 

4 Vol.  1,  pp.  21-25,  PI.  7.  Me  moire  sur  unc  nouvelle  especc  de  Pimelode,  jetee  par 
les  volcans  da  Royaume  de  Quito. 


252 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiii. 


accompanies  the  description  is  extraordinary.  Humboldt  says 
that  during  minor  eruptions  of  Cotopaxi,  Tunguragua,  and  Sangai, 
and  erujjtions  or  convulsions  of  Imbabura  and  Carihuairazo, 
immense  numbers  — thousands  — of  these  fish  (which  he  calls 
Pimelodus  cyclopum)  are  thrown  out ; that  they  are  sometimes 
ejected  from  the  craters  at  the  summits  of  these  mountains,  and 
sometimes  through  fissures  in  their  slopes;  curious  to  say,  “con- 
stantly at  the  elevation  of  15,986-16,626  feet  (2500  to  2600 
toises)  above  the  sea.”  He  speaks  of  this  as  a regular  occurrence 
in  the  case  of  the  first  three  named  mountains,  and  says  that  the 
pestilential  odours  which  arise  from  the  decay  of  these  fish  cause 
fevers,  etcetera. 

The  most  wonderful  part  of  the  story  has  yet  to  come.  These 
fish,  which  are  supposed  to  be  ejected  from  the  craters  of  fiery 
volcanoes  17,000  to  19,500  feet  above  the  sea,  or  from  fissures  at 
heights  of  16,000  to  16,600  feet,  are  said  to  reach  the  plains  alive, 
after  they  have  tumbled  or  have  been  washed  all  the  way  down 
the  sides  of  the  mountains.  The  distinguished  traveller  adds, 
cautiously,  “ this  fact  does  not  appear  to  me  to  be  sufficiently 
vouched  for”  ; but  says,  immediately  afterwards,  “What  is  certain 
is  that,  amongst  the  thousands  of  dead  fish  one  sees  come  down 
from  Cotopaxi  there  are  very  few  sufficiently  disfigured  to  let 
one  believe  that  they  have  been  exposed  to  great  heat.  This 
fact  becomes  more  striking  when  we  consider  the  soft  flesh  of 
these  animals.  . . It  appeared  very  interesting  for  Natural  His- 
tory to  verify  the  nature  of  these  animals.”  For  the  rest  let  me 
refer  the  reader  to  the  original,  or  to  Aspects  of  Nature,  vol.  ii, 
1?.  231,  where  the  same  story  is  given  in  different  words. 

It  will,  I think,  be  gathered  from  the  original,  that  Humboldt 
did  not  himself  see  any  of  the  fish  which  were  said  to  have  been 
‘ ejected.’  He  identified  them  with  the  fish  which  are  found  in 
ponds,  lakes,  and  streams  throughout  the  interior  of  Ecuador,  and 
it  was  one  of  these  latter  that  he  figured  and  described.  He 
commits  himself,  however,  to  a belief  in  the  story  by  the  passage 


CHAP.  XIII. 


A FIRE-PROOF  FISH. 


253 


commencing  “ What  is  certain/’  and  especially  by  the  title  of  his 
paper  (Memoir  upon  a new  species  of  Pimelode  thrown  out  by  the 
Volcanoes  of  the  Kingdom  of  Quito).  In  Aspects  of  Nature  he 
says  that  these  fish  live  in  subterranean  reservoirs  in  the  Vol- 
canoes. There  seems  no  limit  to  the  credulity  of  man.  All  these 
marvels  have  been  frequently  embodied  in  works  treating  upon 
Natural  History,  without  protest. 

I venture  to  point  out  that  from  12,000  feet  upwards  the 
slopes  of  Cotopaxi  are  uninhabited ; that  the  height  of  10,000  to 
16,000  feet  is  an  altitude  to  which  the  natives  of  Ecuador  never 
go  under  ordinary  circumstances,  still  less  would  they  be  there 
during  an  eruption  ; and  that  no  one  can  possibly  affirm  from 
personal  knowledge  that  these  fish  have  ever  been  thrown  out 
from  the  cratei1,  or  from  fissures  at  the  height  of  10,000  feet. 

From  15,000  feet  upwards  the  cone  of  Cotopaxi  was  found 
to  be  so  warm  as  to  quickly  liquefy  snow  which  fell  upon  it 
(see  p.  142).  At  19,500  feet  the  face  of  the  slope  was  observed 
to  have  a temperature  of  50°  Faht.,  and  at  the  depth  of  eight  feet 
110°  Faht.  (see  p.  148).  At  this  height,  water  boiled  at  1 79° *1 
Faht.  It  was  clear  that  at  a very  moderate  distance  below  the 
surface  the  boiling-point  of  water  would  be  reached.  A subter- 
ranean reservoir  of  quite  small  dimensions  would  necessarily  be 
surrounded  by  rock  at  a temperature  probably  much  exceeding 
the  boiling-point  of  water. 

As  it  is  stated  that  the  fish  which  are  supposed  to  have  been 
ejected  from  the  crater,  or  to  have  been  expelled  from  the  subter- 
ranean reservoirs,  were  frequently  alive,  and  had  their  flesh  in 
good  preservation,  it  appears  to  me  there  is  stronger  evidence 
against  the  notion  that  they  dwell  in  subterranean  reservoirs  than 
in  favour  of  it.  Fish  cannot  emerge  in  this  rough  manner  from 
boiling-water  or  from  super-heated  steam  alive,  and  with  their 
skins  intact.  Yet  I do  not  like  to  abandon  all  belief  in  this  pet 
story  of  childhood,  as  wonderful  in  its  way  as  the  historv  of 
Shadrach,  Meshach,  and  Abednego.  Possibly,  after  some  eruptions 


254 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiii. 


and  earthquakes  large  numbers  of  these  fish  have  been  found  out  of 
water,  but  this  would  not  prove  ejection  by  or  from  the  volcanoes. 
Floods  occasionally  pour  down  the  slopes  of  Cotopaxi,  causing 
rivers  to  swell  and  to  overflow  their  banks  (see  pages  127,  138, 
and  159)  ; and  it  would  be  no  marvel  if  during  such  inundations 
multitudes  of  fish  were  borne  from  their  native  haunts,  and  left 
stranded  when  the  waters  subsided.  Also,  during  earthquakes, 
fissures  opening  in  the  earth  may  change  the  courses  of  streams  ; 
or  might,  by  intersecting  the  beds  of  pools,  drain  them  and  leave 
shoals  of  fish  high  and  dry,  living  and  unscathed.  In  these  possi- 
bilities there  is,  I imagine,  the  sub-stratum  of  truth  upon  which 
a mountain  of  fable  has  been  raised. 

In  an  indirect  manner,  the  statement  that  Pimelodus  cyclopum 
is  the  only  fish  found  in  the  interior  above  8750  feet  has  been 
questioned.  Other  travellers  have  brought  home  fish  from  this 
region,  on  several  occasions,  which  have  been  described  under 
various  names.  In  a paper  in  the  American  Naturalist  for  1871 
(pp.  G94-5),  Dr.  Putnam,  however,  advanced  the  opinion  that  the 
whole  of  these  so-called  different  species  should  be  referred  to 
one,  somewhat  variable,  species ; and  as  the  descriptions  had  been 
based  upon  a small  number  of  examples  I thought  it  was  advisable 
to  collect  freely,  in  order  that  the  matter  might  be  re-investigated. 

Machachi  was  the  first  place  where  enquiries  were  made,  and 
I introduced  the  matter  there  to  the  tambo-keeper,  who  at  once 
declared  that  several  kinds  of  fish  could  be  found  in  the  neigh- 
bouring streams.  “ My  good  Antonio,”  said  I,  “ if  you  will  only 
shew  me  two  kinds  I will  give  you  five  pesos.”  This  manner  of 
approaching  the  subject  commended  itself  to  the  landlord,  and 
he  soon  brought  examples  ; hut,  although  there  were  differences 
amongst  them,  Antonio  Racines  did  not  earn  the  reward ; for 
when  they  were  placed  side  by  side  he  was  obliged  to  confess 
that  they  were  all  one  kind.  Yet  he  maintained  to  the  last  that 
other  fish  were  to  be  found  in  the  interior  of  Ecuador,  and  that 
they  grew  six,  seven  to  eight  inches  long. 


CHAP.  XIII. 


A FISH  DINNER. 


255 


From  the  Machachi  specimens  I selected  young  and  old,  and 
those  presenting  most  variety  ; and  at  Cayambe  made  friends  with 
the  schoolmaster,  and  induced  him  to  send  his  scholars  to  scour 
the  streams  and  ponds.  Nothing  could  have  suited  the  urchins 
better.  Pimelodus  cyclopum  began  to  arrive  from  all  points  of 
the  compass.  They  filled  a bucket,  and  I had  to  cry  “ Stop  ! ” 
Again  I made  a selection,  and  enquired  “ What  shall  we  do  with 
the  rest  ? ” “ Eat  them,”  said  the  Jefo-politico  ; and  they  were 

cooked  and  consumed,  and  were  found  not  to  be  more  nasty  than 
other  small  fry  composed  principally  of  heads  and  tails.  Here 
again  slight  differences  could  be  noted,  hut  no  one  could  venture 
to  say  that  there  were  two  species.  At  Chillo,  and  Kiobamba, 
I again  procured  a large  number,  witli  similar  results. 

Out  of  the  many  hundreds  which  passed  through  my  hands, 
none  exceeded  four  inches  in  length.  Fifty-one  were  preserved, 
and  submitted  upon  my  return  to  the  independent  examination 
of  the  late  Dr.  F.  Day,  who  coincided  with  the  views  expressed 
by  Dr.  Putnam,  and  therefore  upheld  the  statement  originally 
made  by  Humboldt.1  Pimelodus  cyclopum  (proposed  by  Dr. 
Putnam  to  be  called  Cyclopium  cyclopum)  is  found  throughout 
the  interior  of  Ecuador  generally,  from  8500  to  10,000  feet  above 
the  sea;2  in  streams  flowing  both  into  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific; 
and  in  ponds,  pools  and  lakes  quite  disconnected.  It  swims  with 
a wriggly  action ; comes  frequently  to  the  surface  to  breathe ; 
and  often  appears  to  be  blind,  or  at  least  to  see  very  imperfectly. 
It  should  be  repeated,  however,  that  a number  of  Ecuadorians 
stoutly  maintained  that  there  were  other  fish  in  the  streams,  as 
much  as  a foot  in  length  ; and  I have  no  reason  to  doubt  their 
sincerity,  although  they  failed  to  produce  examples. 

1 Dr.  Day’s  remarks  will  be  found  in  the  Supplementary  Appendix , pp.  137-9, 
accompanied  by  figures  of  this  fish  seen  from  above,  below,  and  in  profile. 

2 And  perhaps  much  higher.  I was  unable  to  investigate  the  numerous  ponds 
and  pools  on  Antisana,  the  small  lake  at  the  foot  of  the  cone  of  Cotopaxi,  and 
the  larger  one  upon  Mojanda. 


FOUNTAIN  ON  THE  PLAZA  AT  CARRANQU1. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

OX  THE  PROVINCE  OF  IMBABURA,  AND  THE  FIRST  ASCENT 
OF  COTOCACHI. 

Upon  the  21st  of  April  we  left  Cayambe,  and  crossed  the  depres- 
sion between  Mojanda  and  Imbabura  to  the  village  of  Otovalo  ; 1 
having  two  objects  in  view — an  ascent  of  Cotocachi,  and  collection 
of  Antiquities  in  the  district  which  has  been  in  the  past,  and  is 
still,  the  most  densely  populated  in  Ecuador. 

I went  to  that  country  jiossessed  with  the  notion  that  there 
must  have  been  an  Equatorial  “ Stone  Age,”  though  without 
positive  information  that  stone  implements  could  be  found  ; or 
knowing  whether  during  Incarial  times  weapons  and  implements 
of  stone  were  in  common  use.  Having  nothing  to  shew,  for  a 

1 There  was  a fair  track  all  the  way,  and  from  the  Lake  of  St.  Pablo  to  Otovalo 
there  was  a respectable  road. 


CHAP.  XIV. 


A SEARCH  FOR  ANTIQUITIES. 


257 


long  time  there  were  no  results.  If  one  talked  of  the  Incas  the 
natives  enquired  with  surprise  “ Who  were  they  ? ” and  they 
seemed  equally  unacquainted  with  the  works  of  their  (probably) 
much  more  remote  ancestors.  So  we  fell  back  upon  asking  for 
old  things,  and  then  came  shabby  umbrella  tops,  battered  scissors, 
and  broken  pottery  — objects  which  were  rejected  because  they 
were  not  nearly  old  enough.  At  length  we  seemed  to  have  struck 
oil.  One  night,  when  at  supper,  the  door  was  stealthily  opened  ; 
and  a rough  head  peeped  round,  peering  out  of  a dilapidated 
poncho  that  concealed  a bulky  object.  “You  have  something  to 
shew  ?”  “ Yes,  Senor.”  “ Is  it  old  ? ” “ That  it  is”  ; and,  tossing 
aside  his  ragged  garment,  he  displayed  his  treasure,  saying, 
triumphantly,  “ this  is  very  old,  Senor  ! ” 

At  Machachi,  by  per- 
sistent enquiries,  Perring 
at  last  discovered  a bat- 
tered stone  axe,  and  thus 
getting  a start,  through 
having  something  to  shew, 
we  picked  up  others  as 
we  progressed  northwards  ; 
though  south  of  Quito  an- 
tiquities of  any  kind  were 
rare,  and  in  the  Capital 
it  was  scarcely  more  use 
to  look  for  them  than  to 
search  fox*  Chelsea  ware  “this  is  very  old,  senor  !•• 

in  Chelsea,  or  for  Caxtons 

in  Westminster.  Still  a few  things  wei'e  obtained,  even  there, — 
amongst  others,  the  lance-point  given  on  the  next  page,1  which 
was  fouixd  in  an  old  wall  that  was  being  pulled  down.  Every  one 
said,  “ Try  Imbabura.  Go  to  Ibarra,  and  to  Carranqui  the  birth- 
place of  Atahualpa.” 


i This  was  one  of  the  two  chipped  objects  which  were  obtained. 


of  the  rest  were  polished. 


2 L 


The  whole 


258 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


So  we  went  to  Imbabura,1  gradually  acquiring  things  in  stone 
as  we  rode  along  — accosting  every  person  and  enquiring  at  all  the 
houses  — sometimes  spying  them  hanging  as  ornaments  or  charms 
around  the  necks  of  Indian  women,2  or  used  as  weights  by  weavers 

on  their  looms,  or  as  toys 
by  children.  Verity  was  a 
tolerably  efficient  assistant, 
and  I found  a more  acute 
one  presently  at  Otovalo  in 
the  person  of  the  Yankee 
Jew  who  had  anathema- 
tized the  salt  fish  on  Good 
Friday ; and  succeeded  in 
enlisting  the  sympathies  of 
several  other  persons  who 
were  not  insensible  to  the 
value  of  the  Almighty 
Dollar. 

Time  was  becoming 
precious,  for  this  north- 
ern journey  had  occupied 
longer  than  was  intended  ; 
and  it  was  arranged  that 
Cotocachi  should  be  dis- 
posed of  first,  and  that  I 
should  pursue  my  quest 
for  antiquities  with  Verity  and  Cevallos,  whilst  the  Carrels 
returned  southwards  to  make  another  attempt  to  ascend  llliniza. 
At  Otovalo  we  were  informed  that  our  mountain  was  unapproach- 

1 Imbabura  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Colombia,  and  on  the  west,  east,  and 
south  by  the  Provinces  of  Esmeraldas,  Oriente,  and  Pichincha.  It  is  divided  into 
four  cantons,  Tulcan,  Ibarra,  Cotocachi  and  Otovalo,  which  are  subdivided  into 
twenty-nine  parishes.  Ibarra  is  the  chief  town.  The  mountain  called  Imbabura 
occupies  a large  part  of  the  Province. 

2 See  the  illustration  on  page  237. 


CHAP.  XIV. 


THE  ASCENT  OF  CO  TOC  AC  HI. 


259 


able  from  that  direction,  on  account  of  earthquake  fissures,  and 
were  advised  to  proceed  to  the  village  of  Cotocachi,  and  seek  the 
good  offices  of  the  Priest.  On  the  22nd  of  April  we  went  there, 
and  found  him  high  up  on  a scaffolding,  acting  as  master-builder 
for  a new  church,  surrounded  by  scores  of  his  parishioners,  busy  as 
bees.  A good  man  was  this  Priest.  He  lodged  and  fed  us,  wrote 
a letter  of  recommendation  to  the  owner  of  the  highest  property 
on  the  mountain,  and  got  us  off  at  6.35  a.m.  next  morning, 
provided  with  a guide  for  the  first  part  of  the  way. 

From  studying  Cotocachi  at  a distance,  it  had  been  settled  to 
make  an  ascent  from  the  south  or  south-west.  "When  sweeping 
the  horizon  on  the  top  of  the  Pointe  Jarrin,  I found  that  it  ivas 
much  the  most  elevated  and  the  only  snow-clad  mountain  in  the 
north  of  Ecuador,  and  had  determined  that  the  more  southern  of 
its  two  peaks  was  the  loftier.  The  Chief  of  the  Staff,  on  the 
contrary,  maintained  that  the  northern  was  the  higher  point.  I 
overruled  him,  for  on  the  cross-wire  of  the  theodolite,  when  we 
were  nearly  on  a level  with  the  top  of  Cotocachi,  there  was  a 
marked,  though  small,  difference  between  the  two  peaks  in  favour 
of  the  southern  one. 

Our  guide  led  westwards,  through  lanes  whose  banks  and 
hedges  were  laden  with  ferns  1 (all  different  from  those  which  had 
been  met  with  before),  and  adhered  to  this  course  for  about  six 
miles,  skirting  the  base  of  the  mountain  and  apparently  taking  us 
away  from  the  goal ; moving  parallel  to  an  impassable  quebrada, 
generally  about  seventy  feet  wide  (which  had  been  formed  in 
1868),  until  he  came  to  a place  where  the  walls  had  fallen  in  and 
choked  the  cleft.  IV e crossed  this  natural  bridge,  and  then  steered 
north-north-west  to  Iltaqui  (10,049  feet) — a very  diminutive 
hacienda  and  the  highest  house  upon  the  mountain  — which  was  in 
charge  of  one  old  Indian. 

1 Asplenium  trichomanes,  L.  (abundant)  ; CheilantJics  myriophylla,  Desv. 
(abundant);  Cyslopteris  fragilis,  Bernh.;  Notholama  sinuata,  Kaulf.;  Woodsia 
mollis,  J.  Smith  ; and  others. 


260 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES.  chap.,xiv. 


When  looking  back  from  this  place  it  was  seen  that  there  was 
good  reason  for  bringing  ns  by  a circuitous  route.  The  lower 

slopes  of  our  mountain,  and  the  comparatively  flat  ground  at  its 

base,  were  rent  and  riven  in  a most  extreme  manner.  In  no  other 
part  of  Ecuador  is  there  anything  equalling  this  extraordinary 
assemblage  of  fissures,  intersecting  one  another  irregularly  and 
forming  a perfect  maze  of  impassable  clefts.  The  general  appear- 
ance of  the  country  between  the  villages  of  Cotocachi  and  Otovalo 
is  not  very  unlike  that  of  a biscuit  which  has  been  smashed  by  a 
blow  of  the  fist.  The  cracks  are  all  V shaped,  and  though  seldom 
of  great  breadth  are  often  very  profound,  and  by  general  consent 
they  are  all  earthquake  quebradas.  Several,  at  least,  have  been 
formed  within  the  memory  of  man,  while  others  are  believed  to  be 

centuries  old.  It  was  not  to  be  expected  that  any  one  would  be 

found  who  had  actually  witnessed  their  formation,1  or  possessing 
certain  knowledge  of  the  immediate  cause  of  their  production. 
Some  persons  would  probably  have  said  with  Shakespeare  that 

“Oft  the  teeming  eartli 
Is  with  a kind  of  colic  pinch’d  and  vex'd 
By  the  imprisoning  of  unruly  wind 
Within  her  womb  ; which,  for  enlargement  striving, 

Shakes  the  old  beldame  Earth,  and  topples  down 
Steeples  and  moss-grown  towers.” 

If,  however,  they  had  been  caused  by  upheaval,  there  could 
scarcely  have  failed  to  have  been  some  irregularities  in  the 
surface  ; and  I imagine  that  they  arise  from  a succession  of  settle- 
ments in  this  particular  area.  Whether  they  have  been  caused  by 
upheavals  or  subsidences,  it  is  clear  that  at  the  time  they  were 
produced  the  surface  of  the  earth  was  in  a state  of  tension. 

After  leaving  Iltaqui,  we  were  guided  by  the  Indian  up  a small 
valley  leading  towards  what  may  be  termed  the  southern  ridge  of 

1 The  quebrada  we  skirted  was  one  of  the  largest,  and  was  not  less  than  six 
miles  in  length.  It  opened  in  the  night.  I am  unable  to  give  a view  of  this  very 
remarkable  scene.  The  photographic  plates  that  were  exposed  at  Iltaqui  were 
smashed  in  the  accident  which  occurred  on  the  way  back  to  Quito. 


CHAP.  XIV. 


IN  A TOURMENTE. 


261 


Cotocachi,  and  when  this  was  struck  turned  sharply  to  the  right, 
towards  the  summit.  Cracks  and  fissures  in  the  crest  of  this  ridge 
again  suggested  that  settlements  were  oocurring.  Our  guide  led 
well,  and  got  us  soon  after  mid-day  up  to  the  foot  of  the  final  peak, 
and  more  than  14,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  ground 
then  became  too  rugged  for  the  mules,  and  we  halted  to  consider. 

From  this  direction,  Cotocachi  appears  pyramidal  rather  than 
conical ; and  has  a face  on  the  east  (fronting  the  basin  of  Imba- 
bura)  that  is  precipitous ; and  another  less  abrupt  one  on  the 
west,  largely  covered  with  snow.  This  was  to  be  our  way ; and 
catching  sight  of  a small  bit  of  flat  ground  a little  higher,  in  the 
right  direction,  all  hands  set  to  work  carrying  baggage  to  it.  The 
second  trip  upwards  was  being  made  when  a transformation  scene 
occurred.  A clear  sky  became  overclouded,  the  mountain  was  lost 
in  mist ; and,  after  the  usual  succession  of  rain,  hail  and  sleet,  a 
furious  fall  of  snow  took  place,  which  rendered  the  air  so  thick 
that,  although  only  a few  yards  apart,  we  could  not  see  each 
other.  The  whole  of  the  natives  dropped  their  loads  and  fled, 
while  Verity  and  the  Carrels  stuck  to  their  work,  and  laboured  to 
place  the  tent  amid  driving  showers  of  snow,  circling  in  a veri- 
table tourmente.  The  gusts  filled  the  tent  and  defied  their  efforts 
to  install  it.  The  wind  tossed  us  about  like  jilaythings  — neither 
the  long  arms  of  Louis  nor  the  strong  ones  of  Verity  and  Jean- 
Antoine  availed  anything.  The  whirling  snow  mocked  our  efforts, 
and  for  the  only  occasion  on  this  journey  we  found  it  impossible 
to  erect  our  habitation  properly. 

The  tents  taken  to  Ecuador,  in  general  style,  resembled  that 
which  is  described  in  Scrambles  amongst  the  Alps.  The  four  poles, 
however,  were  divided.1  Their  upper  halves  were  fixtures,  and 
when  the  lower  ones  were  withdrawn  the  tents  could  be  folded, 

i At  the  points  where  the  poles  crossed  each  other  a little  of  the  canvas  was 
cut  away,  leaving  a hole  at  each  corner  of  the  roof  for  ventilation  (see  illustration 
upon  page  60).  During  snowy  and  rainy  weather,  it  was  frequently  necessary  to 
close  these  apertures,  and  this  was  done  by  covering  them  with  the  waterproof 
casings  to  our  hats  (see  illustration  upon  page  144). 


262 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


and  made  into  packages  of  convenient  size  for  male-travelling. 
The  wood  was  varnished  to  hinder  it  absorbing  moisture ; but  on 
this  northern  journey  some  of  my  people  thought  to  do  a clever 
thing  and  scraped  the  poles  to  make  them  run  in  more  easily,  and 
thus  made  matters  worse  instead  of  better.  The  wood  swelled, 
and  did  not  slide  in  as  freely  as  before  ; and  in  the  hurry  of  the 
occasion  some  of  the  canvas  became  puckered,  and  prevented  one 
of  the  lower  halves  from  entering  its  socket.  "We  struggled  in 
vain  to  rectify  it ; and,  when  the  tent  was  at  last  pitched,  one  or 
another  had,  for  the  next  fourteen  hours,  to  support  the  faulty 
corner  to  save  the  structure  from  collapsing. 

In  the  morning  six  inches  of  new  snow  was  lying  around,  and 
the  mountain  was  loaded  with  it.  Shall  we  proceed  ? If  this  had 
been  dry,  powdery  snow  I should  have  declined.  There  is  no 
objection,  beyond  the  labour  involved,  to  traversing  new-fallen 
snow  upon  mountain-slopes  provided  it  will  cohere,  and  adhere. 
Particles  of  granular  snow  coalesce  slowly  ; and  in  cold  weather, 
particularly,  several  days  may  elapse  before  they  will  bind. 
Happily,  we  never  saw  snow  of  this  description  in  Ecuador, 
although  it  is  common  in  most  high  regions.  Our  snow  was 
generally  wet.  It  may  have  been  the  product  of  intense  cold  ; 
but,  falling  through  atmosphere  with  temperatures  considerably 
above  the  freezing-point,  it  arrived  upon  the  ground  in  a thawing 
condition,  and  had  not  the  tendency  to  slip  upon  slopes,  which 
is  a characteristic  of  the  granular  state.1 

AVe  therefore  proceeded,  after  a preliminary  inspection,  and  at 
11.35  a.m.,  on  the  24th  of  April,  stood  on  the  very  highest  point 
of  Cotocachi.  One  hundred  and  ninety  minutes  were  occupied  in 
going  from  the  camp  (14,490  feet)  to  the  summit  (16,301  feet), 
and  we  consequently  ascended  571  feet  per  hour,  a rate  much 
inferior  to  that  attained  on  Antisana  and  Cayambe,  which  is  to 
be  attributed  to  the  caution  employed  to  avoid  disturbance  of 

> During  the  whole  time  we  were  amongst  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator  we 
neither  saw  a snout-avalanche  nor  the  track  of  one. 


CHAP.  XIV. 


ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  COTOCACHI. 


263 


the  snow,  and  to  the  greater  steepness  of  the  ground.1  I noticed 
that  657  steps  were  made  without  stopping,  when  between 
15,000-16,000  feet  high  ; and  this  compares  favourably  with  the 
experiences  of  many  practised  mountaineers  at  a similar  elevation 
(pressure)  upon  Mont  Blanc.  Though  it  must  he  admitted  that 
the  steps  were  short  ones 
(as  we  were  quite  unable 
to  do  anything  approach- 
ing this  during  the  earlier 
part  of  the  journey),  there 
is  reason  to  believe  that 
we  had,  in  the  course 
of  the  last  four  months, 
become  somewhat  habit- 
uated to  low  pressures. 

The  true  summit  of 
Cotocachi  is  a pointed 
peak  of  lava,2  broken  up 
by  frost,  extremely  steep 
at  the  finish,  and  upon 
that  account  bearing  little  snow.  I estimate  it  to  be  150  to  180 
feet  higher  than  the  northern,  or  second  summit.  This  mountain 

1 Left  camp  at  8.25  a.m.,  and  went  to  the  top  without  a halt.  On  the  24th  of 
April,  at  12  (noon),  the  Mercurial  Barometer  (reduced  to  32°  Faht.)  read  16  661 
inches,  air  temperature  36°5  Faht.  The  11  a.m.  observation  at  Guayaquil  (red.  to 
32°)  was  29'869  inches,  air  temp.  81°  Faht. 

a “Purplish-grey  rock,  containing  small  whitish  felspar  crystals,  with  a good 
many  minute  vesicles.  . . The  ground  mass  appears  to  consist  of  a glassy  base, 
containing  minute  crystallites,  probably  for  the  most  part  felspar,  but  perhaps  also 
a pyroxenic  mineral,  with  rods  of  opacite  and  with  ferrite  staining.  In  this  occur 
crystals  of  plagioclastic  felspar,  not  generally  exceeding  0’3  inch,  agreeing  in  general 
character  with  those  already  described,  but  perhaps  more  frequently  containing 
enclosures,  and  ‘ dirty  looking,’  together  with  a pyroxenic  mineral.  The  crystals 
of  this  are  not  very  characteristic,  but  I think  both  augite  and  hypersthene  can  be 
identified.  . . These  rocks  from  Cotocachi  appear  to  be  hvperstheniferous  augite- 
andesite.” — Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney,  Proc.  Royal  Soc.,  Nov.  27,  1884. 


264 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv.  . 


is  probably  the  eleventh  in  rank  of  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator. 
Tradition  says  that  it  was  in  eruption  some  centuries  ago,  and  it 
is  not  unlikely  that  a crater  lies  buried  beneath  the  glacier  which 
at  present  occupies  the  depression  between  its  two  peaks.1 

On  the  25th  of  April  we  returned  to  Cotocachi.  The  lanes 
were  thronged  by  troops  of  Indians,  hurrying  forward  with 
unwonted  alacrity  to  the  village,  where  the  streets  and  exits  from 
the  Plaza  were  barricaded,  to  prevent  the  escape  of  tormented 
cattle.  Their  eagerness  was  explained.  What  sweeter  pastime 
is  there  than  baiting  a bull  ? When  can  it  be  more  fitly  practised 
than  upon  a Sunday  afternoon  ? 

The  elite  of  Cotocachi  were  engaged  at  the  Priest’s  house  in 
perusing  an  account  of  the  Ascent  of  Antisana,  which  had  just 
been  published  by  General  Veintemilla  in  tbe  Official  Gazette. 
His  Keverence  insisted  that  it  must  be  read  in  public,  and  told 
a satellite  to  inform  the  people  that  he  had  a communication  to 
make  to  them.  The  news  spread  as  if  by  magic.  The  populace 
followed  us  literally  en  masse,  streamed  into  the  building  where 
the  lecture  was  to  be  given  until  it  was  jammed  tight  with  stand- 
ing people,  clambered  on  to  tbe  window-sills,  and  stood  outside 
in  thousands,  craning  their  necks  forward  to  catch  the  words  of 
their  Pastor ; who  from  a slightly  elevated  desk,  after  a little 
introduction,  read  the  whole  of  a very  matter-of-fact  relation,  to 


1 There  was  abundance  of  the  lichen  Stereocaulon  turgescens,  Nyl.,  and  of  the 
moss  Orimmia  ovala,  Web.  & Mohr,  amongst  the  summit  rocks.  Examples  of  these 
two  genera  were  frequently  seen  closely  against  or  surrounded  by  snow  (15-16,000 
feet),  and  it  was  not  unusual  to  find  them  in  such  a position.  Five  species  of  Grimmia 
were  found  at  16,000  feet  and  upwards,  elsewhere.  Upon  the  very  highest  point 
of  all  there  were  two  Grasses  ( Triselum  Andinum,  Benth.,  and  a Deyeuxia  which 
is  not  yet  determined),  only  one  root  of  each , growing  strongly  ; two  thousand  fefet 
above  the  upper  limit  of  their  ordinary  range,  in  the  most  exposed  position  that 
could  be  selected,  where  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year  temperature  must  he 
much  below  the  freezing-point  and  the  soil  be  hard  frozen  ; — yet  growing  strongly, 
evidently  flourishing,  and  approaching  maturity  — the  most  remarkable  instance  of 
this  kind  that  has  ever  come  under  my  notice. 


CHAP.  XIV. 


THE  PROVINCE  OF  IMBABURA. 


265 


which  they  listened  in  the  most  perfect  silence,  and  with  a rapt 
attention  that  shewed  their  respect  for  their  spiritual  leader  and 
gave  evidence  of  thirst  for  information.1 

When  this  was  over  we  returned  to  Otovalo,  and  on  the  next 
day  the  Carrels  went  off  to  Quito,  accompanied  by  David  and  the 
jovial  arriero,  leaving  me  with  Verity  and  Cevallos.  I was  in  very 
indifferent  health,  and  received  here,  at  a time  when  they  were 
valuable,  some  attentions  from  the  Yankee- Jew  who  had  made 
himself  conspicuous  on  Good  Friday,  by  his  wrath  at  the  table 
d'hote.  The  language  of  this  hybrid  Hebrew  was  often  most  un- 
parliamentary ; but  he  was  a good-natured  man,  a trader  before 
everything  (he  would  either  buy  your  hair  or  sell  you  a watch), 
and  I endeavoured  to  requite  his  kindness  when  we  met  again  at 
the  Capital.  Inducing  him  and  an  intelligent  cobbler  to  work 
this  locality  in  my  absence,  on  the  28th  of  April  I rode  across 
Imbabura  to  Ibarra,  passing  through  the  villages  of  Hutantaqui 
and  San  Antonio. 

A large  part  of  the  Province  is  occupied  by  the  mountains 
Mojanda,  Cotocachi,  and  Imbabura.  The  slopes  of  the  latter 
extend  from  Carranqui  almost  to  the  Lake  of  San  Pablo,  and 
on  the  west  commence  to  rise  at  the  village  of  Human.  The 
fertile  and  cultivated  portion  of  the  Province  lies  principally  in 
the  basin  that  is  enclosed  by  the  three  mountains.  The  bottom 
of  this  is  not  so  high  as  those  which  have  been  already  mentioned, 
and  it  enjoys  a happy  mean  between  the  chillness  of  the  more 
elevated  lands,  and  the  sultry  climate  of  the  lower  ground.  To 
this  higher  temperature,  more  than  to  any  difference  in  the  soil, 
the  fertility  of  Imbabura  is  to  be  ascribed  ; and  the  comparative 

1 Compulsory  education  was  established  by  Garcia  Moreno  in  Ecuador  before 
it  was  introduced  into  Great  Britain,  and  in  1880,  iu  the  interior,  it  was  exceptional 
to  find  a person  who  could  not  read.  They  had  little  chance,  however,  of  obtaining 
anything  to  read.  There  was  no  book-shop  in  Quito,  nor,  I believe,  in  the  whole 
country.  The  people  with  whom  we  mixed  (either  Indians  or  half-whites)  were 
always  eager  to  have  anything  read  to  them.  In  this  total  absence  of  literature, 
and  thirst  for  information,  there  was  a great  opportunity  for  a man  of  enterprize. 

2 M 


266 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


density  of  its  population  is  a consequence  of  its  fertility.  Between 
the  places  which  have  been  enumerated,  the  whole  country  is 
dotted  with  detached  residences — Indian  villas  so  to  speak — each 
provided  with  its  little  plot  of  ground,  where  all  and  more  than 
is  necessary  can  be  raised.1  The  daily  wage  of  the  people  is  said 
to  be  only  a medio  (two-pence),  yet  it  appeared  to  be  sufficient  for 
their  wants.  They  looked  sleek  and  well-fed,  and  were  rich 
enough  to  indulge  in  drunkenness.2 

Xotwithstanding  this  drawback,  it  is  pleasant  to  ride  across 
Imbabura.  Foliage  gives  shadow,  and  the  roads  are  well-beaten 
tracks,  reasonably  dry.  Bound  about  Hutantaqui  and  San  Antonio 
in  particular,  there  are  a great  number  of  artificial  mounds,  from 
twenty  or  thirty  to  two  hundred  or  more  feet  in  diameter  (in  form 
resembling  the  panecillos  of  the  Volcanoes),  which  are  universally 
considered  to  be  tumuli.  According  to  Father  Velasco,3  more 
than  twelve  thousand  of  these  were  erected  after  the  defeat,  on 
the  Plain  of  Hutantaqui,  of  the  tribes  of  Cayambe,  Carranqui  and 
Otovalo  by  the  Inca  monarch,  Huayna-Capac.  Though  they  are 
very  numerous,  it  cannot  be  supposed  for  a moment  that  there  are 
or  ever  have  been  12,000  of  these  mounds  in  this  locality.  There 
are  others  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Carranqui  which  are  said  to 
have  been  investigated  at  various  times  by  joint-stock  companies, 
with  disappointing  results.  They  desired  gold  and  silver,  and 
found  little  except  bones  and  pottery. 

The  villages  which  have  just  been  mentioned,  as  well  as  the 

1 The  following  things  were  being  grown  in  this  small  district  — Maize,  Wheat, 
Barley,  Sugar-cane,  Cotton;  Peas,  Lentils,  French-beans,  Potatoes,  Yuca,  Parsnips, 
Lettuce,  Cabbages,  and  other  ordinary  vegetables ; Bananas,  Cherries,  Strawberries, 
Chirimoya,  Lemons,  Oranges,  and  Grapes. 

2 Until  our  arrival  in  Imbabura,  we  had  not  seen  half-a-dozen  intoxicated 
persons  in  Ecuador  ; but  when  returning  upon  the  25th  of  April,  in  the  little 
distance  between  Cotocachi  and  Otovalo,  we  passed  three  men  who  were  dead  drunk, 
a score  of  others  badly  inebriated,  and  many— including  women  — in  a more  or  less 
advanced  condition. 

3 Histoire  du  Royaume  de  Quito , par  Don  Juan  de  Velasco  (translated  by  H. 
Ternaux-Compans),  8vo,  Paris,  1840;  vol.  i,  p.  53. 


CHAP.  XIV. 


THE  EARTHQUAKE  OF  1868. 


267 


larger  ones  of  the  Province,  were  still  in  a very  ruinous  condition 
from  the  effects  of  the  earthquake  of  August  16,  1868.  This 
occurred  at  1 a.m.,  and  is  generally  believed  to  have  originated  in 
the  space  between  Otovalo  and  Cotocachi  (village),  and  to  have 
been  an  affair  of  a few  seconds.  The  havoc  was  confined  to  the 
basin  of  Imbabura.  A shock  appears  to  have  travelled  north- 
wards, and  to  have  rebounded  upon  Ibarra  from  the  mountains  of 
Colombia ; 1 for  the  destruction  at  this  place  was  more  complete 
than  in  the  towns  closer  to  the  great  quebrada  which  opened  in 
the  night.  I was  told  that  not  more  than  two  dozen  houses  were 
left  standing,  and  that  lists  were  in  existence  shewing  that  20,000 
persons  perished  at  Ibarra  alone.2  I imagine  that  the  disturbance 
of  the  earth  which  caused  the  shock  (or  shocks)  occurred  at  no 
great  distance  beneath  the  surface.  If  the  focus  of  disturbance 
had  been  deep-seated,  the  area  influenced  would  have  been  larger. 

At  Ibarra,  I brought  letters  of  introduction  to  Senor  Teodoro 
Gomez  de  la  Torre,  the  greatest  landowner  in  the  north  of 
Ecuador,  — a gentleman  who  was  spoken  of  everywhere  with 
respect.  Amongst  other  things  standing  to  his  credit  was  that, 
when  nominated  for  the  Presidency  upon  the  assassination  of 
Garcia  Moreno,  he  retired  in  favour  of  Borrero,  rather  than  divide 
his  party.  “My  house,”  he  was  accustomed  to  say,  “is  the 

1 The  mountains  of  Colombia  shut  in  the  Province  of  Imbabura  like  a wall. 
Though  their  general  elevation  is  very  considerable,  in  the  month  of  April  they 
were  without  snow. 

2 If  these  lists  were  examined  it  would  I expect  be  found  that  this  number  is 
a gross  exaggeration.  I think  Ibarra  never  contained  20,000  persons.  The  place, 
however,  was  very  badly  wrecked.  At  the  time  of  our  visit,  six  churches,  a con- 
vent, schools,  and  the  hospital  were  in  ruins. 

In  the  earthquake  of  1868  the  Indians  suffered  less  than  the  rest  of  the  popula- 
tion, principally  in  consequence  of  the  greater  fragility  and  elasticity  of  their 
dwellings.  Some  may  have  been  swallowed  up  by  the  opening  of  chasms,  for  in 
this  rather  thickly  populated  district  a Assure  several  miles  long  could  scarcely  open 
anywhere  without  this  happening. 

In  a Report  from  Mr.  Alfred  St.  John  to  the  Foreign  Office,  dated  Quito,  July  14, 
1891,  the  entire  population  of  the  Province  of  Imbabura  is  said  to  be  67,940,  and 
that  of  the  town  of  Ibarra  to  be  6000  (see  note  to  page  1). 


268 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TIIE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


only  hotel  at  Ibarra,”  and  lie  well  sustained  his  reputation  for 
hospitality. 

On  the  29th  of  April  we  went  over  to  Carranqui,  a village 
of  700  or  800  persons,  about  a mile  and  a quarter  south  of  Ibarra, 
and  a little  above  it ; at  this  place  proceeding  as  before,  question- 
ing every  individual  we  met,  exhibiting  the  things  which  had  been 
already  acquired,  and  enlisting  Priest  and  Jefo-politico  in  the 
search,  and  speedily  found  that  much  was  obtainable  ; but  my 
increasing  weakness,  and  inability  to  procure  proper  remedies, 
warned  me  that  it  was  time  to  return,  and  after  a second  visit  to 
Carranqui  we  went  back  to  Otovalo,  in  possession  of  a collection 
that  proved  the  existence  of  great  numbers  of  implements  in  stone 
in  Equatorial  America,  and  raised  a strong  presumption  that  there 
was,  at  some  remote  period,  a Stone  Age.  I give  here  all  the 
remarks  that  will  be  offered  upon  this  subject,  although  not  a few 
of  the  examples  to  which  reference  will  be  made  were  procured 
at  a later  date. 

I place  first  a class  of  objects  to  which,  so  far  as  I am  aware, 
special  attention  has  not  hitherto  been  drawn  by  any  traveller. 
Those  included  in  the  group  figured  upon  page  269  all  belong 
to  a type  which  is  numerous  in  Ecuador,  and  they  should  not 
perhaps  be  classed  either  as  Ornaments,  Weapons,  or  Implements. 
I call  them  Stars  in  Stone.  They  were  found  everywhere  between 
Ibarra  and  Riobamba,  and  became  embarrassing  by  their  very 
quantity.  The  majority  have  six  rays  (and  none  have  more), 
proceeding  symmetrically  from  the  centre,  and  the  whole  are 
fashioned  alike  upon  eacli  side.  A certain  number  have  only  five 
rays,  and  occasional  examples  are  irregular  in  shape  (see  the  top 
figure,  on  the  right).  All  are  pierced  by  a hole,  which  has  been 
drilled  from  the  two  sides,  and  the  size  of  this  varies  considerably. 
In  dimensions  they  range  from  three  to  five  inches  in  diameter, 
and  from  three-quarters  of  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  thickness. 
Their  weight  is  from  five  to  twenty  ounces.  The  larger  part  are 


CHAP.  XIV. 


STARS  IN  STONE. 


269 


made  from  basaltic  rock  and  gabbro.  Objects  of  this  class  were 
also  cast  in  metal,  but  these  are  now  rarely  met  with  in  Ecuador.1 

Whilst  they  possess  the  general  points  of  similarity  that  have 
been  mentioned,  scarcely  any  two  are  identical  in  form.  Some  are 
flat  and  thin,  others  are  thick,  or  rise  in  the  centre  upon  each 


STARS  IN  STONE. 


side  into  a shape  like  the  hub  of  a wheel.  The  number  of  these 
objects  that  I collected  was  as  much  a matter  of  surprise  to 
Ecuadorians  as  it  was  to  myself.  Though  many  persons  were 

1 It  is  not  unlikely  that  many  examples  in  metal  have  perished  in  the  melting- 
pot  (like  the  axes  and  other  implements  and  weapons),  through  the  Ecuadorian 
mania  for  gold. 


270 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


aware  of  the  existence  of  these  Stars  in  Stone,  no  one  seemed  to 
possess  the  least  idea  that  they  were  so  numerous,  and  so  widely 
distributed. 

In  examining  books  upon  the  contiguous  countries,  I find 
several  references  to  stars  in  stone  and  in  metal.  Yet  no  traveller 
appears  to  have  been  struck  by  their  frequency.  In  the  Report 
of  The  U.S.  Naval  Astronomical  Expedition  to  the  Southern  Hemi- 
sphere  during  the  years  1849-52, 1 in  vol.  ii,  p.  138,  figures  are 
given  of  two  stars  in  bronze  (found  at  Cuzco,  Peru),  one  having 
a sixtli  ray  prolonged  into  a hatchet,  which  suggests  that  it  must 
have  been  a war-club,  or  battle-axe.  In  Squier’s  book  on  Peru 2 
(p.  177),  there  is  a figure  of  a six-rayed  object  in  bronze,  said  to 
have  been  one  of  several,  which  are  designated  by  the  Author 
(apparently  following  some  earlier  writer)  casse-tetes,  and  he  says 
that  among  the  fractured  skulls  that  were  found  “ the  larger  part 
seemed  to  have  been  broken  by  blows  from  some  such  weapons.” 
Mons.  Wiener,  in  his  book  on  Peru  and  Bolivia,3  gives  a figure  of 
a star  which  was  found  at  Ancon  (near  Lima),  shewing  a stick 
inserted  in  the  central  hole  ; and  another  figure  of  a somewhat 
similar  form  in  bronze,  also  handled.  Like  Squier,  he  calls  them 
casse-tetes .4  Finally,  the  Doctors  Reiss  and  Stubel  remark,  in 

their  magnificent  work  upon  the  Peruvian  Antiquities  obtained 
at  Ancon,5  that  “the  few  stone  objects  found  here  shew  but  slight 

1 By  Lieut.  J.  M.  Gilliss  ; 4to,  Philadelphia,  1856. 

2 Pru,  Incidents  of  Travel  and  Exploration  in  the  Land  of  the  Incas,  by  E.  George 
Squier,  M.A.,  F.S.A.,  late  U.S.  Commissioner  to  Peru;  8vo,  New  York,  1877. 
Squier  says  at  the  same  page  “ if  weapons  of  stone  were  ever  found  here,  I failed 
to  learn  the  fact.”  In  this  passage,  he  is  speaking  of  Northern  Peru,  close  to  the 
frontiers  of  Ecuador. 

3 Perou  ct  Bolivie,  Paris,  1880,  p.  685.  M.  Wiener  was  sent  in  1875-7  to  Peru 
and  Bolivia  to  collect  antiquities,  and  he  obtained  a large  number  of  objects.  It  is 
noticeable  that  in  the  hundreds  of  engravings  in  his  book  only  about  half-a-dozen 
things  in  stone  are  figured. 

4 This  expression,  freely  translated,  means  ‘ nut-crackers.' 

6 The  Necropolis  of  Ancon  in  Peru,  by  W.  Reiss  & A.  Stubel ; London  & Berlin , 
3 vols.,  folio,  1880-1887. 


SOME  TYPICAL  STONE  IMPLEMENTS  COLLECTED  BY  THE  AUTHOR  IN  ECUADOR. 


CHAP.  XIV. 


WEAPONS  OR  SYMBOLS? 


271 


traces  of  workmanship,  an  exception  being  ...  a stone  weapon 
of  the  ‘ Morning  Star  ’ type.  . . The  six-rayed  stone  star,  here 
found  once  only,  is  elsewhere  in  Peruvian  graves  by  no  means 
rare.” 

Though  all  these  writers  appear  to  regard  these  objects  as  a 
kind  of  battle-axe  (and  are  probably  correct  so  far  as  those  having 
a ray  prolonged  into  a hatchet  are  concerned),  there  are  several 
considerations  which  make  me  hesitate  to  adopt  the  opinion  that 
the  Stars  in  Stone  were  habitually  used  as  weapons.  The  Indians 
of  this  region  were  a quiet,  inoffensive,  unwarlike  people.  This  is 
their  nature  still.  Yet  these  objects  were  more  numerous  than 
any  other  kinds  which  were  obtained,  and  are  found  everywhere. 
We  should  therefore  be  led  to  conclude  that  a great  part  of  the 
population  was  provided  with  offensive  weapons.  The  larger  of 
the  Stars  (which  are  as  heavy  as  a pound  and  a quarter)  no  doubt 
might  be  used  effectively  ; but  the  smaller  ones,  weighing  only  a 
few  ounces,  would  not  be  very  formidable  ; and  taking  them  as 
a whole  they  are  less  adapted  either  for  offensive  or  defensive 
purposes  than  most  of  the  implements  which  will  presently  be 
enumerated.  To  this  may  be  added  that  many  are  uninjured,  and 
do  not  seem  to  have  been  put  to  any  use  whatever.  Francisco 
Campaua  (a  half-Indian  who  joined  us  during  the  latter  part  of 
the  journey)  had  assisted  in  the  examination  of  graves  in  Peru, 
and  said  these  Stars  in  Stone  were  found  there  placed  upon  the 
breasts  of  corpses  ; and  it  seems  to  me  more  likely  that  they  were 
to  the  Children  of  the  Sun  symbols  of  the  luminary  that  they 
worshipped,  than  that  they  were  employed  by  the  natives  for 
breaking  each  other's  heads. 

Out  of  the  remainder  of  the  objects  in  stone  that  were 
collected,  a large  number  should  undoubtedly  be  classed  as 
Implements.  Not  a few  others  are  Ornaments,  and  there  is  a 
residuum  which  may  have  been  either  ornamental  or  useful. 

Upon  the  accompanying  plate  five  different  types  of  Imple- 
ments are  represented.  In  the  series  A— E,  the  whole  of  the  edges 


272 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


are  rounded,  except  the  bottom  ones.  In  the  next  line  (F— j)  all 
are  of  a chisel  type.  The  tops  and  sides  of  these  are  sometimes 
flat  or  angular,  and  sometimes  rounded  ; and  the  lower,  or  cut- 
ting edges,  are  sharp.  The  examples  in  the  next  series  (K— 0) 
bear  some  resemblance  to  a bill-hook  ; the  top  edges  are  flat ; and 
they  are  all  pierced  with  holes  drilled  from  the  two  sides.  The 
specimens  in  the  next  row  have  similar  holes  — otherwise  they 
approximate  to  the  chisel  type ; while  the  type  represented  in 
the  series  U — Y differs  from  all  the  others  in  having  projecting 
shoulders,  and  (occasionally)  in  having  a groove  along  the  length 
of  the  top  edge,  apparently  to  facilitate  handling. 

All  these  five  types  were  found  in  numbers,  in  many  localities, 
and  have  evidently  been  amongst  the  most  common  and  generally 
used  implements  during  the  Equatorial  Stone  Age.  In  minor 
respects  they  exhibit  considerable  variety,  and  there  are  large 
differences  in  their  size,  thickness,  and  weight.  The  type  P— T was 
the  most  numerous,  and  I brought  home  more  than  fifty  examples. 
The  greater  part  have  holes  drilled  from  each  side,1  though  in 
some  the  aperture  is  as  broad  internally  as  externally,  that  is 
to  say,  it  passes  straight  through.  The  positions  of  the  holes 
vary,  — some  being  central,  though  most  of  them  are  nearest 
to  the  top.  The  lower  edge  is  always  the  sharpest ; and,  while 
many  would  not  have  cut  butter,  there  are  a few  sharp  enough 
to  cut  wood.  Their  weight  ranges  from  to  29  ozs.,  and  like 
the  Stars  in  Stone  they  have  been  fashioned  from  a diversity 
of  rocks. 

Besides  many  examples  of  these  five  types,  a large  number  of 
undoubted  Implements  in  stone  were  obtained,  from  which  selec- 
tions are  given  upon  page  273.  Those  marked  E,  J,  K,  L,  N— T are 
unique,  and  the  other  forms  are  more  or  less  rare.  The  central 
one,  marked  M,  was  the  only  object  for  which  the  natives  could 
assign  a use,  and  it  was  pronounced  to  be  a corn-pounder.  This 

1 These  are  not  strictly  speaking  < countersunk  ’ holes.  They  are  less  in  diameter 
in  the  middle  of  the  implements  than  they  are  on  their  surfaces. 


CHAP.  XIY. 


SOME  UNUSUAL  FORMS. 


273 


one  weighs  five  and  a quarter  pounds,  and  I have  another  of  eleven 
pounds.  The  form  i,  of  which  I have  several  examples,  is  con- 


sidered by  Mr.  Thomas  Ewbank 1 to  be  a “ hollowing-hammer  for 
metal/’  and  it  is  possible  that  those  marked  A,  B and  C (and  their 

1 At  p.  137  of  the  Report  by  Lieut.  Gilliss,  already  quoted,  Mr.  Ewbank 
says, — “The  groove  worked  round  the  middle  was  the  universal  device  by  which 

2 N 


274 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


numerous  varieties)  were  used  for  the  same  purpose.  The  objects 
D,  F,  G and  H are  more  puzzling.  The  two  latter  somewhat  re- 
semble the  two  others  represented  upon  this  page,  but  differ  from 
them  in  not  having  the  circular  cavities  in  the 


sides.  The  objects  of  this  class  are  highly  wrought, 
and  fashioned  out  of  hard  stone.  It  seems  not 
unlikely  that  they  were  used  for  sharpening  tools, 
and  that  the  examples  G,  H are  new  (that  is,  un- 
used) specimens,  belonging  to  the  same  class  as 
those  given  upon  this  page.  They  have  also  been 
found  by  M.  Wiener  in  Peru. 

The  smaller  things  that  I obtained  in  stone 
are  made  from  a greater  variety  of  materials  than 
the  larger  ones.  Basaltic  rock  is  used  for  about 
one  third,  and  there  are  besides  implements  or 
objects  in  Glass,  Jet,  Jasper,  Malachite,  Saussurite, 

Serpentine,  Porphyry,  and  Granite.  While  the 
larger  implements  and  objects  may  weigh  several 
pounds  apiece,  amongst  these  smaller  matters  there  are  many 
lighter  than  the  eighth  of  an  ounce,  and  I have  two  — a delicately 
carved  cup  with  a handle,  and  a squatting  figure  — the  united 
weight  of  which  is  less  tha \\  twenty-four  grains! 

Amongst  the  distinctly  ornamental  objects  in  stone  there  are 
imitations  of  Maize-heads.  These  were  particularly  mentioned  in 
Juan  & Ulloa’s  work,  nearly  a century  and  a half  ago,  and  seem 


handles  were  secured  to  primeval  stone  axes,  hammers,  and  chisels,  namely,  by 
bending  a hazel  or  other  pliable  rod  twice  round  the  indentation,  and  then  twisting 
or  lashing  the  two  ends  together,  to  serve  as  a handle.  Blacksmiths  to  this  day 
everywhere  thus  handle  their  punches  and  chisels.  They  have  discovered  no  mode 
superior  to  one  which  was  in  vogue  before  edge-tools  of  metal  were  known.”  The 
specimen  to  which  he  referred  came  from  Cuzco,  Peru. 

M.  Wiener,  at  p.  fi85  of  his  book,  calls  one  of  these  a ‘sling-stone,’  — upon  what 
ground  is  not  clear.  A few  years  ago  implements  of  stone  of  this  description  were 
used  by  Indians  on  the  coast  of  the  North  Pacific,  handled  in  the  manner  described 
by  Mr.  Ewbank,  and  I suppose  they  are  still  used  by  them. 


CUAF.  XIV. 


HOUSEHOLD  GODS. 


275 


to  have  been  better  known  at  that  time  than  they  are  at  present. 
The  Spanish  writers  say1  : — 

“ The  maize  has  ever  been  the  delight  of  the  Indians  : for,  besides  being 
their  food,  their  favourite  liquor  chieha  was  made  of  it  ; the  Indian  artists 
therefore  used  to  shew  their  skill  in  making  ears  of  it  in  a kind  of  very 
hard  stone  ; and  so  perfect  was  the  resemblance  that  they  could  hardly  be 
distinguished  by  the  eye  from  nature  ; especially  as  the  colour  was  imitated 
to  the  greatest  perfection  ; some  represented  the  yellow  maize,  some  the 
white.  . . The  most  surprizing  circumstance  of  the  whole  is,  the  manner  of 


MAIZE-HEADS  IN  STONE. 


their  working,  which,  when  we  consider  their  want  of  instruments  and  the 
wretched  form  of  those  they  had,  appears  an  inexplicable  mystery  : for  either 
they  worked  with  copper  tools,  a metal  little  able  to  resist  the  hardness 
of  stones  ; or,  to  give  the  nice  polish  conspicuous  on  their  works,  other 
stones  must  have  been  used  as  tools.'’ 

Squier  gives  in  his  book  on  Pern  (at  p.  91)  a bad  representation 
of  one  of  these  stone  maize  - heads,  and  says  that  they  were 
specially  mentioned  “ by  Padre  Arriaga  in  his  rare  book  on  the 
Extirpation  of  Idolatry  in  Peru  under  the  name  za  ram  am  a,”  and 
were  household  gods  of  the  ancient  inhabitants.  The  examples 
engraved  above  came  from  Carranqui. 

1 Rdacion  Historica  del  viaje  a la  Americana  meridional,  4to,  Madrid,  1748, 
§§  1047,  1048.  The  quotation  is  made  from  the  fifth  English  edition,  8vo,  London, 
1807. 


276 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


A number  of 


Garcila660  de  la 
the  Indians 


other  objects  in  stone  in  my  collection  are  dis- 
tinctly Ornaments,  and  in  several  instances  were 
found  still  being  worn  by  Indian  women,  who 
parted  with  them  unwillingly.  With  others, 
in  many  instances,  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish 
whether  they  were  ornamental  or  useful.  This 
is  the  case  with  the  imitations  of  heads  of 
animals  which  seemed  to  have  been  in  favour 
in  the  basin  of  Riobamba,  and  with  anvil-shaped 
objects  which  were  very  numerous  throughout 
Imbabura. 

That  the  principal  part  of  these  objects 
and  implements  in  stone  are  of  considerable 
or  of  fjreat  age  is  apparent  from  the  fact  that 
Vega  scarcely  mentions  them.  He  says  that 


“knew  not  the  invention  of  putting  a handle  of  Wood  to  their  Hammers, 
but  worked  with  certain  Instruments  they  had  made  of  Copper,  mixed 
with  a sort  of  fine  Brass.  Neither  did  they  know  how  to  make  Files  or 
Graving-tools,  or  Bellows  for  Melting  down  Metals.  . . But  above  all,  their 
Carpenters  seemed  to  be  worst  provided  with  Tools  ; for  though  ours  use 
many  Instruments  made  of  Iron,  those  of  Peru  had  no  other  than  a Hatchet, 
and  a Pick-axe  made  of  Copper  ; they  neither  had  Saw,  nor  Augre,  nor 
Planer,  nor  any  other  Tool  for  the  Carpenter’s  work,  so  that  they  could  not 
make  Arches  or  Portals  for  doors  ; onely  they  hewed  and  cut  their  Timber, 
and  whitened  it,  and  then  it  was  prepared  for  their  Building  : And  for 
making  their  Hatchets  and  Pick-axes,  and  some  few  Rakes,  they  made  use 
of  the  Silversmiths,  for  as  yet  they  had  not  attained  to  the  Art  of  Working 
in  Iron.  Nor  did  they  know  how  to  make  Nails,  or  use  them,  but  tied  all 
their  Timber  with  Cords  of  Hemp.  Nor  were  their  Hewers  of  Stone  more 
artificial,  for  in  cutting  and  shaping  their  Stones,  they  had  no  other  Tool, 
than  one  made  with  some  sharp  Flints  and  Pebbles,  with  which  they 
rather  wore  out  the  Stone  by  continual  rubbing,  than  cutting.” — The  Royal 
Commentaries  of  Peru,  pp.  52-3. 

From  this  passage  it  appears  that  at  the  time  of  the  Pizarros 
the  Indians  used  tools  of  metal  for  most  purposes.  The  con- 


CHAP.  XIV. 


PERUVIAN  POTTERY. 


277 


eluding  sentence  evidently  refers  solely  to  fashioning  stones  for 
building.  In  the  older  writers  in  general  I find  nothing  indicating 
that  they  had  cognizance  of  a Stone  Age  ; and  modern  travellers 
(so  far  as  one  can  judge  from  casual  references  in  their  books)  do 
not  seem  to  have  given  serious  attention  to  this  matter.  Such 
discoveries  as  may  be  made  in  the  future,  I anticipate,  will  confirm 
the  opinion  that  the  most  part  of  these  objects  and  implements 
in  stone  were  already  Antiquities  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish 
Conquest ; and  belong  to  an  age  long  anterior  to  the  times  when 
the  Inca  Tupac  conquered  the  ‘Kingdom  of  Quitu/  and  Huayna- 
Capac  ravaged  Imbabura. 

In  the  course  of  enquiries  for  stone  implements,  many  other 
things  were  brought,  principally  pieces  of  pottery.  Metallic 
objects  were  rarely  offered,  and  seldom  seen.  I heard  of  but  a 
single  little  image  in  gold,  and  this  could  not 
be  had.  Silver  articles  were  nearly  as  scarce. 

Even  bronze  and  copper  antiquities,  when  found, 
are  often  melted  down,  from  the  supposition 
that  they  are  alloyed  with  gold.  The  annexed 
figure  of  the  head  of  a silver  pin  is  an  example 
of  a class  which  was  formerly  common  and  is 
now  rare.  The  six-rayed  star  at  the  bottom  of 
this  page,  and  the  two  hatchets  upon  page  278  (which  were  part  of 
a large  ‘ find  ’ at  Cuenca)  are  nearly  all  that  I obtained  in  bronze. 

The  popular  idea  of  Peruvian  (Ecuadorian) 
pottery  is  derived  from  the  grotesque  black 
ware  that  is  found  in  most  museums.  Squier 
says  of  this  that  the  greater  part  has  been 
bi’ought  from  the  coast  districts  of  northern 
Peru.1  I saw  little  of  it  in  Ecuador,  and 

1 “It  is  safe  to  say  that  three-fourths  of  the  pottery  fouud  in  the  museums  of 
Europe  and  America,  and  called  Peruvian,  came  from  the  coast  or  near  it,  and  of 
this  probably  much  the  largest  portion  from  the  region  ruled  by  the  princes  of 
Cbimu  ” (near  Truxillo). — Peru,  pp.  177-8 


278 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


such  examples  as  I collected  (of  black  pottery)  very  likely  came 


into  the  country  from  the  south, 
was  formerly  used 1 by  the  Indians 
dwelling  amongst  the  Great  Andes 
of  the  Equator  has  a character  of 
its  own,  and  is  distinguished  by 
simplicity,  and  often  by  elegance 
of  form.  It  is  both  glazed  and  un- 
glazed ; of  various  hues  of  Indian 
Red,  and  different  degrees  of  fine- 
ness. Some  of  the  older  pieces  are 
grey  in  colour.  This  old  Indian 
pottery  seems  to  have  been  ne- 
glected by  other  travellers,  and  I 
endeavoured  to  form  such  a col- 
lection as  should  convey  an  idea  of 
the  articles  which  were  formerly 
in  general  use. 

The  shapes  which  seem  to 
have  been  employed  most  exten- 
sively are  given  in  the  annexed 
outline.  The  bottoms  of  these  ves- 
sels are  fiat,  rounded,  or  pointed. 
The  pointed  and  rounded  forms 
were  convenient  for  cooking,  or 
for  being  warmed  over  fires. 


The  major  part  of  that  which 


BRONZE  HATCHETS  FROM  CUENCA. 


The  Indians  even  now  are  little 


provided  with  tables,  and  in  the  past  were  probably  totally  un- 
acquainted with  such  luxuries.  They  squatted  on  the  ground,  and 

1 It  is  to  be  understood  that  all  the  utensils,  &c.,  to  which  I am  about  to  refer 
are  now  superseded  by  common  modern  pottery. 


EXAMPLES  OF  OLD  INDIAN  POTTERY  COLLECTED  BY  THE  AUTHOR  IN  ECUADOR. 


c ii a p,  XIV.  FORMS  OF  UTENSILS  ORDINARILY  EMPLOYED.  279 


cooked  their  food  over  wood  fires ; and  these  pointed  and  rounded 
bottoms  to  their  utensils,  though  quite  unsuited  for  placing  upon 
smooth  surfaces,  would  keep  erect  in  the  embers,  or  might  be 
pressed  into  the  earthen  floor. 

The  natives  did  not  depend  exclusively  upon  these  simple 
vessels.  In  the  accompanying  plate  a number  of  the  more  ordi- 


SOME  OF  THE  LESS  COMMON  FORMS. 


nary  forms  are  grouped  of  their  pots,  bowls,  jars,  jugs,  and  bottles. 
The  larger  vessels,  in  which  the  more  serious  culinary  operations 
would  be  performed,  are  provided  with  feet  (see  H— K),  or  even 
with  legs  (see  figure  at  the  bottom  of  the  illustration  on  this  page). 
Some  have  a pair  of  handles  low  down  (B,  M,  N,  0)  that  would  be 


280  TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 

convenient  to  hold  when  pouring  out  liquids ; others  have  very 
diminutive  handles  high  up,  by  which  the  vessels  were  probably 
suspended.  The  ordinary  single  handle,  seen  in  E and  W.  is  less 
often  found  than  the  double  ones. 


ORNAMENTATION  OF  POTTERY. 

Many  of  these  vessels  or  utensils  are  without  ornament,  though 
some  are  embellished  by  crude  representations  of  the  human  face 
(A,  B,  F,  G,  W).  Ornamental  details,  incised,  raised,  or  painted,  occa- 
sionally occur ; and  a few  of  the  more  characteristic  are  brought 
together  in  the  engraving  above. 


CHAP.  XIV. 


POTTERY  WHISTLES. 


281 


Amongst  the  less  common  forms  there  are  treble  p>ots  like  that 
represented  on  page  279.  As  the  grouped  parts  are  all  connected 
internally,  these  can  hardly  have  been  family  cruet-stands.  They 
were  apparently  intended  to  hold  liquids,  and  it  is  difficult  to  see 
what  advantage  can  have  been  derived  from  this  manner  of  con- 
struction. Double  and  treble  pots  were  numerous  in  Imbabura ; 
though  I brought  home  few,  for  the  reason  which  will  appear 
presently. 


INDIAN  MUSICAL  WHISTLES. 


Then  there  are  the  musical  pottery  whistles  — delightfully  ugly 
things,  which  are  sometimes  more  useful  to  carry  than  letters  of 
introduction.  Simple  airs  can  be  got  out  of  them,  and  on  the 
homeward  journey  my  people  lightened  the  way  by  playing  on 
these  primitive  instruments. 

The  most  interesting,  artistically,  of  all  the  objects  in  pottery 
which  were  obtained  in  Ecuador  have  been  called  ‘ vase-busts  ’ by 
Mr.  Ewbank.  In  the  Report  on  The  U.S.  Naval  Astronomical 
Expedition,  from  which  I have  already  quoted,  he  gave  a bad 
representation  of  an  object  of  this  class;  saying  (in  1856).  “it  is 
supposed  there  are  not  over  two  or  three  extant.”  The  four 

20 


282 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xiv. 


examples  which  appear  on  the  following  pages  are  no  doubt  the 
work  of  four  different  artists  ; and,  though  all  are  old,  they  are  by 
no  means  of  equal  age.  The  idea  that  any  human  being  could  have 
his  face  ornamented  with  a pointed  beard  or  flowing  moustache 
did  not  enter  the  brain  of  the  Indian  modeller  until  Spanish  Dons 
invaded  his  continent.  The  oldest  vases  never  give  hair  upon  the 
lips  or  chin  ; and,  if  beards  or  moustaches  are  introduced,  it  is  a 
certain  indication  that  the  works  have  been  executed  subsequently 


THE  DON  POT. 


to  the  Spanish  Conquest.  This  was  evidently  the  case  in  the  piece 
that  I term  ‘the  Don  pot.’  All  three  of  the  other  examples  shew 
considerable  power  in  portraying  character,  and  very  likely  are  por- 
traits of  eminent  persons.  ' The  double-headed  jar  or  vase  is  the  fin- 
est specimen  I have  seen  of  Indian  pottery,  and  I should  have  been 
happy  to  have  obtained  other  examples  modelled  by  the  same  hand. 

The  pottery  which  is  represented  on  the  previous  pages  was 
obtained  in  various  ways,  not  a little  of  it  coming  from  old  graves, 


CHAP.  XIV. 


‘ VASE-BUSTS. 


2 83 


which  were  continually  being  disturbed.  Senor  Gomez  de  la 
Torre,  hearing  me  lament  that  I was  never  able  to  be  present  at  a 
find,  very  kindly  offered  to  send  the  entire  contents  of  a grave, 
and  he  was  as  good  as  his  word.  The  case,  however,  did  not  even 
reach  Guayaquil  before  my  departure  for  Europe  ; and,  upon  arrival 
in  London,  its  contents  were  found  to  have  suffered  severely 


from  Panama  ‘ baggage-smashers  ’ and  other  disturbing  influences. 
Some  rounded  stones  (presumably  corn  - pounders)  had  danced 
about  and  cannonaded  the  pottery.  After  much  labour,  most  of 
the  contents  were  ‘restored/  and  they  are  represented  in  the 
engraving  upon  page  284/ 

1 Dr.  W.  II.  Flower  has  favoured  me  with  the  following  note:  — “The  skull 
from  Ibarra  is  evidently  of  considerable  antiquity,  as  shewn  by  the  dry  and  brittle 


284 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  ciiap.  xiv. 


Somewhat  elated  by  the  success  of  the  foray  into  Imbabura,  we 
set  out  from  Otovalo  on  the  2nd  of  May,  to  cross  Mojanda  to 


THE  CONTENTS  OF  A GRAVE. 


Quito  ; intending  to  make  the  first  day  a short  one,  and  to  stop 
for  the  night  at  the  little  village  Malchingi.1  The  pottery  was 

carefully  packed  in  straw,  subdivided  as  much  as  possible ; and,  as 
there  was  little  other  luggage,  our  attention  was  almost  solely 
given  to  the  safety  of  our  treasures. 

condition  of  its  bony  tissue.  How  old,  it  is  of  course  impossible  to  say,  but  there 
is  nothing  in  its  condition  to  forbid  the  supposition  that  it  was  buried  before  the 
time  of  the  Spanish  Conquest.  It  is,  unfortunately,  imperfect,  the  greater  part  of 
the  cranial  vault  of  the  right  side  being  broken  away,  probably  in  exhumation, 
as  the  fractures  look  recent,  and  the  lower  jaw  and  all  the  teetli  are  wanting. 
There  is,  however,  enough  to  shew  that  it  belonged  to  a man  beyond  middle  age, 
and  of  considerable  muscular  development.  The  general  ethnic  characters  are  those 
frequently  found  in  aboriginal  American  crania,  though  it  is  rather  longer  and 
narrower  (the  cephalic  index  being  76'6),  and  the  orbits  are  lower  and  the  nose 
wider  than  usual.  On  comparing  it  with  a series  of  skulls  of  ancient  Muiscas  from 
graves  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bogota  in  the  Museum  of  the  Royal  College  of 
Surgeons,  it  is  evidently  of  the  same  general  type.  Unlike  most  of  the  old  skulls 
from  the  locality  near  which  it  was  found  it  presents  no  sign  of  artificial  deformation 
during  infancy. 

1 There  is  a small  inn  at  Malchingi,  but  between  that  place  and  Otovalo  there 
is  not,  I believe,  a single  house.  The  nearest  habitation  farther  west  is  the 
Hacienda  of  Alchipiehi,  a very  large  establishment,  situated  on  the  south-western 
slopes  of  Mojanda,  about  1400  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  Quebrada  of  Guallabamba. 
The  descent  to  the  bridge  across  the  quebrada  is  exceedingly  steep. 


IT  ROLLED  OVER  AND  OVER  DOWN  THE  SLOPE,  AND  DISAPPEARED, 


C HAP.  XIV. 


A S3!  ASH. 


285 


It  was  getting  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we  passed  the  lakes 
on  Mojanda,  and  commenced  the  ascent  of  a long  incline  leading 

to  the  summit  of  the  road. 
The  worst  of  the  way  was 
over,  and  Verity  and  I 
pressed  forward  in  advance 
of  the  rest,  to  reach  our 
quarters  in  good  time.  Half 
an  hour  later,  while  stop- 
ping to  get  some  angles, 
we  heard  shouts  behind, 
and  saw  Cevallos  running 
and  gesticulating.  “ How 
it  happened,  Sen  or,  cannot 
be  said.  I saw  it  falling. 
It  has  gone  over  a preci- 
pice. It  is  dead  ! ” One 
of  the  mules  had  met  with 
an  accident  a few  minutes 
after  we  left  them.  Returning  together,  our  arriero,  pointing  to 
the  place  where  the  fall  had  happened,  said  that  the  animal  had 
rolled  over  and  over  down  the  slope  and  disappeared.  AVe  could 
see  nothing  of  it ; for  the  side  of  the  mountain  (a  commonplace 
declivity  of  earth  and  boulders)  was  broken  in  some  places  by 
irregularities. 


THE  INCA  VASE. 


Cevallos  and  Verity  descended  to  search,  and  reappeared  with 
rueful  faces,  carrying  a bundle  of  clothing  saturated  with  slime, 
driving  before  them  our  unhappy,  tottering  beast,  who  after 
tumbling  head  over  heels  for  a hundred  feet  had  shot  over  a cliff 


about  eighty  feet  high,  and  had  been  pulled  up  in  a muddy  pool 
underneath.  Beyond  knocking  the  breath  out  of  its  body,  and 
losing  the  tip  of  one  of  its  ears,  it  took  no  harm.  But  the 
packing-cases  had  burst ; the  family  soup-tureens,  the  double 
and  treble  pots,  and  other  precious  relics  of  a past  civilization. 


286 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TIIE  GREAT  ANDES,  ciiap.  xiv. 


bounding  down  the  declivdty,  had  been  hopelessly  smashed  into 
thousands  of  fragments,  and  we  abandoned  the  wreck  of  our 
fragile  treasures  on  the  dreary  paramo. 

When  night  fell  we  were  still  some  hours  from  Malchingi, 
stumbling  and  floundering  among  ruts  and  camellones.  The  others 
implored  me  to  stop,  and  we  dropped  down  and  camped  in  a 
muddy  ditch  on  the  open  moorland.  I have  reposed  on  better 
and  cleaner  couches ; though,  after  all,  a muddy  ditch  is  not  the 
worst  of  beds  — one  soon  becomes  attached  to  it.  At  Malchingi 
the  dilapidated  mule  was  left  to  recruit,  and  I pushed  on  to  Quito 
— Cevallos  following  at  his  leisure  ; and  arrived  at  the  Capital 
at  10  p.m.  on  the  3rd  of  May,  feeling  more  dead  than  alive,  and 
looking,  I was  told,  ‘fit  for  the  grave.’ 


THE  MONEY-BOX. 


LA  CONDAMINE’S  INSCRIBED  STONE. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A VISIT  TO  THE  PYRAMIDS  OF  QUITO. 

A few  days  after  our  return,  Jean-Antoine  came  in  from  Machachi, 
reporting  that  lie  and  his  cousin  had  ascended  Illiniza  from  the 
north,  in  witness  whereof  he  presented  samples  of  the  highest 
rock.1  Louis  remained  behind,  at  the  tambo  of  Antonio  Racines, 

1 “ Rough  scoriaceous  rock.  . . In  one  specimen  is  an  irregular  branching  tube 
or  vein,  coated  with  a dull  greenish  or  brownish  glass,  which  I suspect  to  be  a 
fulgurite.  I have  only  had  a slice  cut  from  the  specimen  broken  from  the  rock  in 
situ.  It  is  not  in  a good  condition  for  examination,  but  consists,  so  far  as  I can 
make  out,  of  a ferrite-stained  glass,  containing  crystals  of  the  usual  plagioclastic 


288 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xv. 


keeping  guard  over  stores,  and  enjoyed  a quiet  month  alone, 
improving  much  in  appearance  and  condition. 

My  stomach  had  gone  all  wrong,1  as  people  say,  and  repose  was 
necessary  for  restoration  to  health.  During  the  next  five  weeks 
I went  little  out  of  doors,  except  for  promenades  in  the  city,  and 
before  we  left  it  I had  explored  every  street,  lane,  or  alley  in  the 
place.  Jean-Antoine  and  I turned  out  each  evening  to  do  a fresh 
section,  walking  warily  in  the  centre  of  the  thoroughfares,  one  a 
little  in  advance  of  the  other.  By  ten  o'clock  nearly  every  one 
had  gone  to  bed,  and  scarcely  a sound  would  be  heard  except  the 
voices  of  policemen  bawling  at  the  junctions  of  the  streets,  to 
announce  their  whereabouts. 

In  the  middle  of  the  month,  when  somewhat  revived,  I made 
an  excursion  to  the  Pyramids  which  should  mark  the  ends  of  the 
long  base-line  that  was  measured  in  173G  by  La  Condamine  and 
his  associates.  In  consequence  of  discussions  which  had  arisen  as 
to  the  figure  of  the  Earth,  the  French  Academy  of  Sciences,  at  the 
beginning  of  the  last  century,  determined  to  send  out  two  expedi- 
tions to  measure  arcs  at  a great  distance  apart.  One  of  these  went 
to  the  Gulf  of  Bothnia,  and  the  other,  composed  of  MM.  Godin, 
Bouguer,  and  La  Condamine,  to  Equatorial  America.  They  com- 
menced their  work  on  a plain  to  the  north-east  of  Quito,  by 
measuring  a very  long  base-line,  and  from  its  two  ends  carried  a 
chain  of  triangles1  (to  the  north  beyond  Ibarra,  and  to  the  south 
to  Cuenca)  over  more  than  three  degrees  of  latitude.  Towards 
the  end  of  their  work  they  measured  a base  of  verification  near 
Cuenca,  and  found  its  length  by  direct  measurement  differed  from 
the  calculated  length  by  less  than  two  feet ! 

The  toise  that  the  French  Academicians  took  out  as  an  unit  of 

felspar,  with  a ferruginous  mica,  grains  of  hematite  or  magnetite.  . . The  rock  is 
an  andesite,  but  perhaps  it  is  safest  only  to  prefix  the  epithet  micaceous.” — Prof. 
T.  G.  Bonney,  Proc.  Royal  Soc.,  Nov.  27,  1884. 

1 This  was  started  by  exposure  on  March  31. 

2 A plan  of  these  triangles  is  given  in  PI.  II.  of  La  Condamine’s  work,  Mesure 
des  trois  premiers  degres  da  ileridien,  4to,  Paris,  1751,  and  also  by  Juan  and  Ulloa. 


CHAP.  XV. 


TEE  PYRAMIDS  OF  QUITO. 


289 


measure  was  a bar  of  iron,  and  it  has  ever  since  been  known  as 
'the  toise  of  Peru.’  Guyot,  in  his  valuable  work  Tables  Meteoro- 
logical and  Physical,  in  a discussion  of  the  various  measures  of 
length  most  generally  used,  says  that  “ it  may  almost  be  called 
the  only  common  standard,  to  which  all  the  others  are  referred  for 
comparison”;  “the  legal  metre  is  a legalised  part  of  the  toise  of 
Peru,  and  this  last  remains  the  primitive  standard.” 


As  the  measurement  of  the  first  base-line  (upon  which  all  the 
rest  of  the  work  depended)  was  intended  to  be,  and  apparently 
was,  conducted  with  the  greatest  possible  care,  it  was  natural  that 
the  Academicians  desired  that  its  length  should  be  preserved,  and 
that  the  two  ends  should  be  marked  by  monuments  of  a permanent 
nature.  This  matter  had,  in  fact,  been  discussed  and  settled  before 
the  observers  left  Paris,  and  upon  the  spot  La  Condamine  specially 

2 P 


290 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xv. 


charged  himself  with  directing  the  erection  of  two  pyramids,  one 
at  each  end  of  the  base. 

In  the  section  of  the  work  1 on  his  labours  in  Ecuador  entitled 
Histoire  cles  Pyramides  de  Quito,  he  recounts  the  difficulties  that 
he  experienced  in  this  matter  ; how  he  fixed  the  centres  of  the 
pyramids  most  accurately  over  the  two  ends  of  the  measurement ; 
how  he  had  to  make  his  own  bricks  (which  he  took  care  should  be 
of  a size  different  from  those  usually  employed,  so  that  there  might 
be  no  temptation  to  pull  the  monuments  to  pieces  for  the  sake  of 
their  materials)  ; how  he  had  to  construct  a canal  two  leagues  long 
to  bring  water  for  making  mortar  ; and  how  stones  had  to  be 
sought  for  and  transported  long  distances  on  mule-hack  — this  part 
of  the  business  alone,  he  says,  occupying  several  months,  as  a 
single  stone  often  made  a load.  Then,  in  the  case  of  the  pyramid 
at  the  northern  end,  he  found  there  was  no  solid  foundation,  and 
he  had  to  create  one  by  pile-driving,  to  search  for  wood  fit  for  the 
piles,  to  bring  workmen  from  Quito  to  fashion  them,  and  to  get 
them  driven.  But  the  thing  above  all  others  which  gave  him  most 
trouble  was  finding,  dressing,  and  transporting  suitable  stones  for 
the  Inscriptions.  These  stones  were  quarried  in  a ravine  some 
hundreds  of  feet  deep,  and  had  to  be  hauled  out  by  rojies,  which 
had  to  be  specially  made  ; and  then  at  the  last  moment  the  ropes 
broke,  one  of  the  stones  was  dashed  to  pieces,  and  they  had  to 
begin  over  again. 

'When  at  last  all  was  complete,  then  there  was  infinite  worry 
over  the  Inscriptions  ; for  the  French  Academicians  had  associated 
with  them  two  Spanish  naval  gentlemen,  who  took  exception  to 
the  phraseology,  for  the  sake  of  their  Royal  Master,  and  on  their 
own  account,  &c.,  &c.  At  last  all  was  settled  and  finished,  and  La 
Condamine  returned  to  Paris,  via  the  Amazons,  arriving  in  1745, 
after  an  absence  of  ten  years,  no  doubt  finding  consolation  in  the 
thought  that  he  had  done  a splendid  piece  of  'work,  which  could  be 
referred  to  in  generations  to  come,  by  means  of  these  monuments. 

1 Journal  dn  Voyage  fail  par  ordre  du  Roi,  &c.,  4to,  Paris,  1751. 


CHAP.  XV. 


DESTRUCTION  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


291 


Towards  the  end  of  1747  lie  heard  casually  that  orders  had 
been  given  by  the  Court  of  Spain  to  erase  the  pyramids,  and 
this  order  was  carried  out  before  he  had  time  to  interpose.  In 
the  pages  to  which  I have  referred  he  bemoans  their  fate,  and 
recapitulates  the  details  of  their  construction  in  a way  which  will 
almost  raise  a smile  with  those  who  do  not  know  the  country  ; 
but  so  little  is  this  country  changed  that  the  account  reads  like  a 
narration  of  operations  which  have  just  been  conducted,  rather 
than  a relation  of  things  which  happened  a century  and  a half  ago. 
He  especially  laments  the  supposed  destruction  of  the  two  great 
stones  bearing  the  inscriptions,  but  concludes  in  the  spirit  of  a 
true  man  by  declaring  that  all  such  things  are  of  no  importance 
in  comparison  with  the  loss  of  the  measure  of  the  base, — “ that 
length,  which  I had  taken  so  much  trouble  to  preserve,  is  now 
lost  for  ever.” 

La  Condamine  heard  subsequently  that  orders  were  given  for 
the  reinstatement  of  the  pyramids,  though  he  probably  never 
knew  whether  they  were  actually  re-erected.  When  I was  at  Quito 
I felt  a strong  desire  to  learn  what  was  their  state,  and  to  find 
out,  if  possible,  whether  they  occupied  the  same  positions  as  before. 
My  friend,  Senor  Rafael  Rebolledo,  heard  of  my  enquiries,  and  told 
me  that  there  was  on  a farm  at  no  great  distance  from  one  of  his 
properties  to  the  north-east  of  Quito  a stone  which  he  believed 
was  part  of  the  original  pyramid  of  Oyambourou,  and  he  invited 
me  to  go  over  to  examine  it.  On  the  15th  of  May,  1880,  we  rode 
over  to  his  farm  of  Olalla,  close  to  the  little  town  of  Pifo,  and  on 
the  next  day  went  to  inspect  the  stone.  It  was  about  four  feet 
long  and  six  inches  thick,  placed  in  the  middle  of  one  side  of  the 
courtyard,  and  was  used  as  a mounting-block.  There  had  been  an 
inscription  upon  it,  but  it  was  completely  worn  out  in  the  centre 
through  the  use  to  which  it  had  been  put.  At  its  two  ends  some 
letters  could  still  be  made  out,  and  going  down  on  hands  and  knees 
to  compare  them  with  the  printed  description  that  I carried,  which 
gives  the  original  inscription  line  by  line,  I found  that  it  was  the 


2D  2 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xv. 


very  great  stone  which  La  Condamine  had  taken  so  much  trouble 
to  procure,  whose  loss  he  had  so  pathetically  lamented. 

The  pyramid  (of  Oyambara  or  Oyambourou)  which  now 
approximately  marks  the  southern  end  of  the  base  is  about  1000 


field  of  maize  ; and  is  neither  the 

original  pyramid  nor  the  one  which  was  erected  to  replace  it. 
I was  informed  on  the  spot  that  it  was  put  up  about  thirty 
years  earlier  by  a President  of  Ecuador,  who  so  little  appreciated 
the  purpose  for  which  it  was  originally  designed  that  he  moved  it 
some  hundreds  of  feet  on  one  side,  in  order,  he  said,  that  it  might 
he  better  seen.  The  traditional  site  of  the  original  pyramids  of 
Oyambourou  was  pointed  out  to  me,  but  I found  no  trace  of  them. 

The  pyramid  at  the  northern  end  of  the  base  (Pyramid  of 
Carabourou)  was  just  visible  as  a speck  of  light,  and  on  the  next 
day  I went  to  it,  and  found  the  structure  there  in  just  such  a 
position  as  the  original  one  is  said  to  have  occupied,  at  the  very 
edge  of  the  great  ravine  of  Guallabamba,  though  whether  it  stands 
on  the  original  site  I am  quite  unable  to  say.  The  labours  of  the 


CUAP.  XV. 


NO  CREDIT  1UAS  GIVEN. 


293 


Academicians  are  therefore,  in  a fashion,  still  commemorated ; 
though  the  length  of  the  base,  as  La  Condamine  feared,  is  now 
lost  for  ever. 

The  latter  part  of  the  month  of  May  was  principally  occupied 
in  arranging  and  despatching  the  collections.  I re-examined, 
labelled,  catalogued  and  packed  more  than  8000  separate  objects, 
and  succeeded  in  sending  them  to  the  coast,  carriage  unpaid. 
These  were  found  awaiting  me,  while  a few  other  cases  which 
were  forwarded  some  weeks  later  from  Riobamba,  carriage  paid , 
were  very  tardy  in  making  their  appearance,  and  caused  a fort- 
night’s detention  at  Guayaquil.  It  is  the  usual  habit  in  the 
country  to  pay  for  carriage  in  advance,  and  the  carriers  have 
their  customers  at  their  mercy.  The  establishment  of  a system 
of  transit  which  shall  be  fair  to  both  sides  is  a general  want,  that 
affords  another  great  opportunity  to  persons  of  enterprize. 

As  our  faces  were  now  going  to  be  set  homewards,  and  a 
tolerably  close  estimate  could  be  formed  of  the  food  and  other 
matters  that  would  be  required,  surplus  stock  was  cleared  out.  I 
took  a hundred  Pounds  over  the  counter  in  three  days,  and 
incurred  no  bad  debts.  The  success  of  this  (my  first)  essay  at 
storekeeping  was  no  doubt  due  to  some  lines  that  I saw  on  ‘ the 
Isthmus  ’ (said  to  have  been  composed  by  a Californian  miner  of 
unusual  literary  ability),  headed  No  Trust  given,  which  in  1880 
were  exposed  in  a prominent  position  just  outside  the  Railway 
Station  at  Panama,  and  probably  remain  there  still,  as  they  were 
looked  upon  with  admiration,  and  were  considered  to  embody  a 
great  truth,  in  extremely  felicitous  language.1 

Some  of  these  goods  were  purchased  by  the  amiable  Hebraic 
Yankee.  In  the  interstices  of  the  provision  cases  all  sorts  of 
things  which  it  was  supposed  might  he  useful  were  stowed  away, — 
amongst  the  rest,  each  tin  contained  a little  pill-box,  and  each  box 

J The  style  of  this  composition  may  be  inferred  from  the  first  liue — 

“To  TRUST  is  to  BUST.” 

The  remaining  lines  are  unfit  for  these  pages. 


294 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xy. 


held  three  little  pills,  and  every  unit  was  sufficient  to  effect  its 
purpose.  There  were  a hundred  or  so  boxes  to  be  got  rid  of,  and 

the  Jew  was  eager  to  trade  for  them.  “Now  Mr.  said  I,  as 

they  were  handed  over,  “ Each  of  these  little  treasures  is  warranted 
to  do  its  work.”  But  he  was  suspicious  ; and,  on  going  home,  took 
the  contents  of  a box,  and  subsequently  took  to  his  bed.  I heard 
all  about  it,  and  went  to  see  him,  expecting  to  find  him  doleful. 

“ Sorry  to  hear  you  are  ill,  Mr. . Have  you  tried  those  pills  ? ” 

and  found  that  he  was  delighted  with  his  bargain.  “ Real  fine 
medicine  that ! Mister,”  he  exclaimed,  almost  rapturously,  “ there’s 
no  mistake  about  that  medicine  ! ” 

These  matters  arranged,  we  were  ready  to  start  ; before  leaving 
paying  another  visit  to  the  President  of  the  Republic,  this  time 
under  the  care  of  H.E.  the  Chilian  Minister,  Senor  J.  Godoy.1 
General  Veintemilla  again  enquired  if  there  was  anything  he  could 
do  for  me,  and  I asked  for  an  Official  statement  of  the  Provinces 
and  Chief  Towns  of  Ecuador.  The  Minister  of  Haciendas,  who 
was  present,  undertook  to  furnish  this  information,  and  did  not 
do  so.  It  has,  however,  quite  recently  been  published  by  the 
Foreign  Office,  in  the  Report  from  Mr.  Alfred  St.  John,  dated 
Quito,  July  14,  1891,  and  is  given  below.2 

1 I take  this  opportunity  to  acknowledge  a number  of  civilities  which  were 
voluntarily  and  very  cordially  rendered  by  this  accomplished  Chilian,  who  almost 


immediately  afterwards 

was  appointed  Prefect  of  Lima,  on  the  occupation  of  that 

city  by  his  countrymen 

a Provinces. 

Population. 

Provinces. 

Population. 

Carchi  . 

. 36,000 

Loja 

. 66,456 

Imbabura 

. 67,940 

Bolivar  . 

. 43,000 

Pichinclia 

. 205,000 

Rios 

. 32,800 

Leon 

. 109,600 

Oro 

. 32,600 

Tungurahua  . 

. 103,033 

Guayas  . 

. 98,042 

Chimborazo  . 

. 122,300 

Manabi  . 

. 64,123 

Canar  . 

. 64,014 

Esmeraldas 

. 14,553 

Azuay  . 

. 132,400 

Oriente  . 

. 80,000 

Total 

. 1,271,861. 

Mr.  St.  John  says  “the  following  list  shows  the  population  of  the  chief  towns, 

which  has  been  calculated  approximately,”  and  adds,  “The  taking  of  a census  in 


CHAP.  XV. 


THE  DEATH  OF  VERITY. 


295 


During  the  remainder  of  the  journey  we  travelled  under  the 
auspices  of  a fresh  interpreter-courier.  Mr.  Verity  having  left  me, 
I engaged  in  his  place  a Quitonian,  a half-Indian,  Francisco  Javier 
Campana  by  name,  who  had  tendered  his  services  on  several 
occasions.  Verity,  not  long  afterwards,  was  accidentally  killed  at 
Riobamba.  Robberies  were  frequently  occurring  there,  and  some 
of  the  more  decent  inhabitants  endeavoured  to  put  them  down  by 
patrolling  the  place  at  night.  Two  of  these  parties  met  at  the 
corner  of  a street,  fired  into  each  other,  and  Verity  fell,  mortally 
wounded. 

Upon  leaving  Quito  on  June  7,  it  was  understood  that  every- 
thing would  be  subordinated  to  a second  ascent  of  Chimborazo, 
though  if  there  was  time  and  opportunity  it  was  intended  to 
give  some  attention  to  Illiniza,  Altar,  and  Carihuairazo.  A few 
miles  on  the  road,  we  came  upon  a small  knot  of  people  who  had 
assembled  to  bid  our  new  interpreter  farewell ; including  his  wife, 
who  cried,  and  screamed,  and  fell  on  his  neck  as  if  he  were  going 
to  execution.  I am  told  that  amongst  the  Indians  a display 

of  grief  upon  the  departure  of  a husband  is  quite  the  correct 
thing,  but  am  unaware  whether  his  return  usually  produces  a 
corresponding  amount  of  joy. 

Ecuador  is  a matter  of  the  greatest  difficulty,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  Indians, 
who  form  a great  part  of  the  population,  refuse  to  give  the  necessary  particulars.” 

Quito,  50,000 ! Guayaquil,  45,000  : Cuenca,  25,000 ; Riobamba,  12,000 ! Ambato, 
10.000;  Loja,  10,000;  Latacunga,  10,000!  Ibarra,  6000;  Jipipapa,  5000;  Otovalo, 
5000;  Porto-viejo,  5000;  Guarauda,  4000;  Tulcan,  3000. 

In  this  list,  Cotocachi  (a  larger  place  than  Otovalo)  is  not  mentioned.  The  Priest 
informed  me  in  1880  that  there  were  5000  Indians  and  3000  whites  in  his  parish. 
As  the  above  is  an  Official  statement.  I only  express  my  surprise  at  the  increase  in 
the  population  since  1880  by  a few  notes  of  admiration. 


A STAMPEDE. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

UPON  A WALK  OX  THE  QUITO  ROAD,  AND  A .JOURNEY  TO  ALTAR. 

Our  new  courier  was  a little  creature,  who  rode  a diminutive 
animal,  and  so  they  were  well  matched  ; but  the  unhappy  beast 
had  also  to  carry  a huge  Mexican  saddle  which  was  as  much  as 
his  master  could  lift  — garnished  as  it  was  with  many  appendages, 
including  the  fashionable  metal  'shoe-stirrups.’  Campana  aspired 
to  look  comme  il  faut,  and  wore  the  orthodox  buskins,  with  several 
ponchos  one  on  top  of  the  other,  and  tossed  the  tails  of  his  com- 
forter behind  so  that  they  might  float  in  the  wind,  and  shew  his 
carved  drinking-cup,  which  together  with  the  macheta  are  outward 
and  visible  signs  of  respectability.  Let  it  be  said  for  the  little 
man  that  under  his  auspices  we  travelled  more  rapidly,  more 
pleasantly  and  economically  than  before.  Xo  unlawful  gains  went 
into  his  pockets,  and  he  was  an  excellent  interpreter. 

Me  got  away  from  Machachi  on  the  8th  of  June  to  make  an- 


CHAP.  XVI. 


REPULSED  AGAIN. 


297 


other  attempt  to  scale  Illiniza,  proceeding  south  for  about  five  miles 
along  the  high  road,  and  then  turning  south-westwards  (through 
the  yards  of  a farm  just  past  the  Bridge  of  Jambeli)  across  some 
flat,  open  ground  (which  by  Ecuadorians  would  be  called  paramo 
and  in  English  Common  or  Moorland)  steering  towards  the  depres- 
sion between  the  two  peaks.1  David  Beltran  had  got  a pet  Llama, 
which  was  borrowed  experimentally  for  this  occasion,  and  it  trotted 
alongside  our  party  without  giving  trouble,  wearing  an  expression 
of  demure  self-satisfaction  on  its  face,  as  if  perpetually  saying  to 
itself,  “ Gentlemen,  see  how  well  I go  ! Look  how  nicely  I behave  ! ” 
It  was  loaded  with  the  photographic  apparatus  and  other  small 
matters,  amounting  in  all  to  about  24  lbs.,  and  carried  that  amount 
easily.  Camped  at  4 p.m.  slightly  lower  than  the  Col  between 
Great  and  Little  Illiniza,  against  a large  block  of  lava,2  at  a very 
bare  and  exposed  spot  (15,446  feet)  ; and  sent  all,  except  the 
Carrels,  2000  feet  lower,  down  to  wood  and  water.  Snow  fell 
heavily  during  the  night,  and  it  blew  hard  from  E.S.E.  Min. 
temp.  26° '5  Faht. 

In  the  morning,  the  first  part  of  our  way  led  over  moderately 
inclined  debris,  and  then  up  the  rather  ill-defined  northern  arete. 
At  8.30  a.m.  we  clearly  overtopped  Little  Illiniza,3  and  about  9 
came  to  the  foot  of  the  terminal  cliff  of  glacier  which  crowns  the 
summit  of  the  main  peak.  Depositing  here  the  mercurial  baro- 
meter and  other  impedimenta,  we  quitted  the  arete  and  commenced 
a traverse  of  the  eastern  face,  over  ice-varnished  ledges,  beneath  a 
canopy  of  icicles  that  garnished  the  crest  of  the  ridge.  “ Let 

1 Immense  numbers  of  the  butterfly  Pieris  xanthodice,  Lucas,  were  flying  over 
this  ground. 

2 “A  moderately  dark-grey,  slightly  vesicular,  ‘trachyte.’  . . There  are  the 
usual  granules  of  magnetite,  and  some  minute  colourless  crystallites  which  may  be 
apatite.  . . The  rock  is  a hornblendic  augite-audesite,  containing  also  some  mica 
and  hyperstliene.” — Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney,  Proc.  Royal  Soc.,  Nov.  27,  1884. 

3 As  the  greatest  height  we  reached  on  this  day  appeared  to  be  16,992  feet,  I 
think  the  elevation  assigned  by  Messrs.  Reiss  & Stiibel  to  Little  Illiniza  (16,936  feet) 
is  too  much.  See  page  131. 

2 Q 


298 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvr. 


Monsieur  advance  a little/’  said  Jean-Antoine,  and  I crept  up  to 
him  and  looked  over  his  shoulder.  “We  shall  go  there,”  he  said, 
pointing  to  the  declivity  under  the  top  of  tops  (surmounted  by  a 
cap  of  glacier  and  fringe  of  pendent  icicles)  where  thickly-falling 
snow,  unable  to  lodge,  was  frisking  and  gyrating,  and  sliding  down 
in  streams.  “Carrel,”  I replied,  “we  will  not  go  there”;  and  I 
went  back  to  Machachi  feeling  very  sore  from  this  second  repulse 
on  Illiniza.1 

As  the  nature  of  the  work  upon  the  two  attempts  to  ascend 
this  mountain  was  very  similar  (being  a mixture  of  steep  walking, 
actual  climbing,  and  step-cutting  in  ice  and  snow),  I was  curious 
to  compare  our  ascending  rates  upon  these  two  occasions.  I found 
that  on  the  9th  of  February  one  hundred  and  eighty-seven  minutes 
were  occupied  in  going  from  the  camp  (15,207  feet)  to  our  highest 
point  (17,023  feet).  The  rate  of  ascent  therefore  was  9'7  feet  per 
minute.  On  the  9th  of  June,  one  hundred  and  fifty  minutes  were 
taken  in  ascending  1470  feet,  and  the  rate,  consequently,  was 
9’8  feet  per  minute.  From  this  it  appeared  that  there  was  no 
notable  change  in  our  condition,  either  in  the  way  of  amelioration 
or  depreciation,  in  the  four  months  that  had  elapsed  between 
Feb.  9 — June  9,  during  which  time  we  had  always  been  higher 
than  7000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  on  several  occasions 

1 Left  camp  6.20  a.m.  (temp.  32°  Faht.,  blowing  hard  from  N.E.),  and  took  a 
general  S.W.  by  S.  course  towards  the  highest  point.  Rocks  glazed  with  ice,  and 
unpleasant  to  touch.  Followed  the  route  taken  by  the  Carrels  at  the  beginning 
of  May,  but  had  they  not  well  marked  the  route  we  should  have  been  unable  to 
advance.  Seldom  saw  more  than  200  yards  in  any  direction.  At  9.30  a.m.  after 
reading  barometer  and  collecting  rocks,  went  back  to  camp,  snow  falling  most  of  the 
way.  Returned  to  Machachi  by  7 p.m. 

The  Carrels  said  that  their  ascent  was  made  in  fine  weather,  and  that  they  took 
an  hour  and  a half  over  the  last  200  feet.  In  the  interval,  the  cornice  at  the 
summit,  they  said,  had  developed  prodigiously.  On  the  9th  of  June  it  was  composed 
of  an  enormous  mass  of  icicles,  fifty  feet  and  upwards  in  length,  which  broke  away 
from  time  to  time,  and  fell  over  their  line  of  ascent.  There  was  more  risk  than  I 
cared  to  encounter  from  the  high  wind,  cold,  and  insecure  footing  on  glazed  rocks, 
raked  by  these  falls  from  the  overhanging  cornice. 


CHAP.  XVI. 


A WALK  ON  THE  QUITO  ROAD. 


299 


had  experienced  pressures  loiver  than  1G‘5  inches  (the  pressure  at 
the  second  camp  on  Chimborazo).  It  seemed  probable  that  we  had 
ascertained  the  worst  that  would  happen  to  us,  provided  ive  did  not 
have  to  sustain  still  loiver  pressures. 

This  does  not,  however,  at  all  inform  one  whether  our  rate 
upon  Uliniza  was  inferior  to  that  which  we  should  have  attained 
upon  the  mountain  if  it  had  been  placed  at  a lower  level  (that  is 
to  say,  if  a higher  pressure  had  been  experienced  whilst  ascending), 
and  on  this  point  there  is  very  little  enlightenment  to  be  obtained 
by  comparing  the  Illiniza  rate  with  the  rates  of  other  persons  upon 
equally  elevated  mountains  in  different  parts  of  the  world  ; for 
the  difficulties  presented  upon  mountain  ascents  vary  so  much  as 
to  make  it  nearly,  or  quite  impossible  to  select  any  two  upon 
which  one  might  expect  to  attain  precisely  the  same  rate.  The 
ascent  of  the  Tetons,  for  example,  cannot  be  compared  with  that  of 
Pike’s  Peak,  or  the  Aiguille  du  Dru  with  Altels.  The  natures  of 
these  mountains  are  dissimilar  ; and,  in  order  to  arrive  at  anything 
like  just  conclusions  concerning  the  effects  of  diminished  pressure, 
comparisons  must  be  made  between  walks  of  a similar  nature, 
taken  under  similar  conditions.  This  brings  me  to  what  I consider 
one  of  the  most  interesting  incidents  of  the  journey,  namely,  a 
walk  taken  on  the  Quito  road,  at  an  elevation  of  about  10,000 
feet,  for  comparison  against  a similar  walk  slightly  above  the 
sea-level. 

Before  starting  for  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator,  I had 
considered  in  what  manner  one  might  best  determine  whether 
diminution  in  atmospheric  pressure  weakened  the  bodily  powers ; 
and  no  method  appeared  so  practicable  as  comparison,  at  different 
pressures,  of  the  natural  and  habitual  rate  of  walking.  The 
simplicity  of  this  idea  may  perhaps  excite  ridicule  amongst  those 
who  are  not  aware  of  the  regularity  with  which  it  is  possible  to 
walk,  and  of  the  precision  with  which  a pedestrian  may  estimate 
his  rate.  Even  amongst  those  who  follow  pedestrianism  profes- 
sional!}', there  are  probably  few  who  will  admit  the  possibility 


300 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvi. 


of  walking  three  miles  without  a greater  difference  than  three 
seconds  between  any  of  the  miles.  Nevertheless  it  can  be  done, 
and  by  constant  observation  one  may  guess  the  rate,  without 
reference  to  a watch,  within  a few  seconds. 

In  1879,  my  habitual  pace  when  walking  for  exercise  and  in 
ordinary  dress  (not  racing  in  airy  costume)  was  well  ascertained. 
I often  walked  a number  of  consecutive  miles  at  about  eleven 
minutes  per  mile.  This  was  my  natural  and  ordinary  rate,  and  it 
was  not  necessary  to  go  over  a measured  mile  to  learn  it.  But,  in 
order  that  it  might  he  verified,  before  leaving  for  Ecuador,  I walked 
seven  miles  on  the  Lillie  Bridge  Grounds,  Brompton,  and  had  the 
time  per  mile  noted  by  two  attendants. 

In  Ecuador,  I looked  for  the  most  level  piece  of  road  at  a 
considerable  elevation,  and  found  nothing  more  suitable  than  the 
Quito  road  about  two  miles  south  of  Machachi,  where  it  was  per- 
fectly straight,  and  slightly  descending  towards  the  north.  On 
this  I measured  a half-mile  with  Jean- Antoine,  and  placed  the 
cousins  at  the  two  ends  as  witnesses  and  timekeepers.  The  same 
dress  was  used  as  before  (ordinary  walking  dress,  and  heavy  mount- 
ain boots).  I found  the  time  per  mile  was  increased  54  seconds. 
This  will  be  seen  by  comparing  the  statements  given  below. 

At  Lillie  Bridge  On  the  Quito  Road 

Grounds,  Brompton,  (9925  feet  above  sea-level), 

Aug.  6,  1879.  June  11,  1880. 

min.  sec.  min.  6ec. 


First  Mile 

10 

45 

11  13 

Second  ,.  . 

11 

0 

12  32 

Third  .,  . 

10 

58 

12  3 

Fourth  ,.  . 

10 

59 

12  13 

Fifth  ,.  . 

11 

14 

12  11 

Sixth  ,,  . . . 

11 

18 

11  35 

Seventh ,, 

11 

11 

Total  time  . 

77 

25 

71  47 

Mean  rate  per  mile 

ii 

4 (nearly) 

11  58  (nearly) 

Max.  temp,  during  walk  . 

67°'5 

Falit. 

60° '5  Falit. 

Min.  ,,  „ 

64° -0 

49° -0  „ 

Mean  „ ,, 

65°'75  „ 

54°’75  „ 

Wind  . . S.S.W.  (force  3-5)  gusty  S.S.E.  (force  3-4) 


CHAP.  XVI. 


DEPRECIA  TED. 


301 


On  each  of  these  occasions,  the  first  mile  was  intentionally 
traversed  at  a quicker  pace  than  the  rest.  Over  the  remainder 
(with  the  exception  of  the  last  mile  at  Machachi),  at  each  place,  I 
endeavoured  to  walk  at  exactly  the  same  rate,  mile  per  mile,  and 
at  Brompton  did  the  next  three  miles  in  11  min.,  10.58  and  10.59 
respectively.  In  the  fifth  and  sixth  miles  heavy  rain  fell,  and 
caused  a marked  diminution  in  the  rate,  which  was  improved 
in  the  last  mile  with  better  weather,  and  I left  off  feeling  that 
another  seven  miles  could  certainly  have  been  covered  in  less  time. 

Although  endeavouring  to  accomplish  the  first  mile  on  the 
Quito  road  at  the  same  rate  as  in  London,  it  took  nearly  half  a 
minute  longer,  and  the  difference  was  larger  on  the  second  one.1 
The  next  three  miles  were  walked  at  a tolerably  regular  pace,  and 
I quickened  up  on  the  sixth,  and  left  off  feeling  that  I could 
scarcely  improve  the  rate,  and  certainly  could  not  walk  another 
six  miles  in  71  min.  47  seconds.2 

It  is  nearly  impossible  upon  two  such  occasions  to  have  the 
conditions  exactly  alike.  At  Machachi  there  were  the  advantages 
of  being  10  lbs.  lighter  than  in  London  and  walking  with  tempera- 
ture 11°  Faht.  cooler,  and  the  disadvantage  of  being  impeded  by 
traffic.  In  London,  though  the  track  was  kept  clear,  there  was 
the  disadvantage  (during  part  of  the  time)  of  walking  in  dragging 
clothes,  soaked  with  rain.  All  things  considered,  the  conditions 
were  pretty  evenly  balanced  ; and,  as  I am  unable  to  assign  the 
depreciation  in  my  ordinary  and  habitual  rate  to  any  other  cause, 

' This  was  partly  caused  by  having  to  pass  three  times  through  a large  flock 
of  sheep. 

2 Before  this  walk  at  Machachi  my  temperature  was  98°'5  Faht.,  and  98° '4 
35  minutes  after  it  was  over.  Pulse  before  the  walk  73,  and  101  half  an  hour  after 
it  was  over.  [M.  Paul  Bert  has  shewn  that,  when  sitting  still,  the  rate  of  the  pulse 
can  be  raised  by  reduction  of  pressure.  See  Appendix  J.]  Some  years  later,  after 
walking  six  miles  at  a much  faster  rate,  on  a measured  half-mile  on  a Surrey  road 
with  a gradient  selected  to  correspond  with  that  on  the  Quito  road,  I found  that  my 
pulse  was  only  raised  from  725  (mean  of  two  minutes)  to  96  (mean  of  four  minutes). 

Owing  to  the  failure  of  a medical  gentleman  to  keep  his  appointment,  my  pulse 
and  temperature  were  not  observed  on  Aug.  6,  1879. 


302 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvi. 


I consider  it  was  due  to  the  fact  that  on  the  11th  of  June,  on 
the  Quito  Road,  atmospheric  pressure  was  a little  over  21  inches, 
instead  of  the  29 — 30  inches  to  which  I was  accustomed. 

Some  persons 1 disbelieve  in  the  reality  of  mountain-sickness, 
and  seem  reluctant  to  credit  that  human  beings  can  be  affected  by 
diminution  in  atmospheric  pressure,  and  to  them,  perhaps,  this 
experiment  will  prove  nothing.  As  regards  myself,  it  appeared 
to  me  to  be  conclusive  that  a marked  effect  was  produced,  and 
an  effect  of  a kind  which  I had  never  suspected  at  corresponding 
altitudes  (pressures)  in  the  Alps,  where  there  was  no  possibility  of 
applying  a similar  test.2 

On  the  12th  of  June  we  finally  left  Machachi,  and  marched 
(without  change  of  animals)  in  three  successive  days  to  Latacunga,3 
Ambato,  and  Riobamba.  The  Jovial  Man  (who  had  sometimes 
been  a cause  of  embarrassment)  was  replaced  by  a strong  and  very 
willing  lad,  named  Domingo  — otherwise  the  caravan  was  composed 
as  before.  The  15th  was  consumed  in  preparations  for  Altar,  and 
in  enquiries  as  to  route.  After  balancing  a number  of  opinions,  it 

1 Including  Men  of  Science.  Prof.  Piazzi  Smyth,  F.R.SS.  L.  & E.,  etc.,  etc., 
says  in  his  Teneriffe,  an  Astronomer's  Experiment,  at  pp.  381-2,  “ If  a windlass  or  a 
treadmill  were  erected  in  London,  and  a gentleman  in  easy  circumstances  set  some 
tine  morning  to  perform  at  one  of  these  ingenious  machines  an  amount  of  work, 
ecpial  to  the  mechanical  task  of  raising  his  own  weight  up  through  the  height  of 
10,000  feet  perpendicular  in  seven  hours, — I believe  that,  though  breathing  air,  of  a 
density  of  thirty  mercurial  inches,  he  would  be  distressed  as  much  as  the  traveller 
who,  by  ascending  a mountain,  performs  the  same.”  The  remainder  of  the  passage 
should  be  read. 

" It  would  be  interesting  if  pedestrians,  who  have  ascertained  to  a nicety  the 
times  within  which  they  have  frequently  covered  such  distances  as  one  hundred 
yards  or  a mile,  would  endeavour  to  repeat  their  performances  on  the  flat  pieces  of 
road  which  can  be  found  at  the  tops  of  some  of  the  Alpine  carriage  passes. 

3 In  returning  from  Machachi  to  Latacunga,  we  took  the  old  road,  past  Mulalo, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Cutuchi,  and  visited  the  so-called  Inca’s  house  which  is 
situated  a short  distance  to  the  south  of  Callo.  The  small  amount  of  the  original 
structure  still  remaining  has  been  embodied  in  some  modern  farm-buildings.  The 
stones  were  finely  dressed,  and  fitted  without  mortar  or  cement.  I saw  none  measuring 
more  than  18  x 12  x 12  inches. 


CHAP.  xvr. 


THE  MASTER  OF  CANDELARIA. 


303 


was  decided  to  proceed  via  Penipe,  and  we  went  to  that  place  on 
Jnne  16,  leaving  part  of  our  animals  at  Eiobamba  to  recruit.1 

At  Penipe,  the  Jefo-politico  was  also  the  village  tailor.  He 
administered  the  law  and  mended  trousers  alternately  ; and  created 
a favourable  impression  on  five  minutes’  acquaintance,  after  declar- 
ing, according  to  the  manner  of  the  country,  that  his  house  was 
ours,  by  adding  with  uncommon  frankness,  “ but,  Seiior,  I would 
recommend  you  not  to  go  in-doors,  for  the  fleas  are  numerous,  and 
I think  your  Excellencies  would  be  uncomfortable  ! ” 

Having  obtained  some  information  from  him,  we  went  on  in 
the  afternoon  to  a small  hacienda  called  Candelaria,  a miserably 
poor  place,  where  nothing  eatable  could  be  had  ; and,  being  advised 
that  mules  could  not  be  used  much  farther,  negotiated  transport 
with  several  young  louts  who  were  loafing  about.  For  eighteen- 
pence  each  per  day,  and  food,  four  of  them  agreed  to  go  to  the 
end  of  their  world  — that  is  to  say,  to  the  head  of  the  Valley  of 
Collanes. 

The  master  of  this  ragged  team  could  hardly  be  distinguished 
from  his  men.  He  was  a young  fellow  of  three  or  four  and  twenty, 
who  wore  a tattered  billycock  hat,  and  no  shoes  or  stockings.  His 
very  sad  countenance  probably  had  some  connection  with  his 
obvious  poverty.  The  farm  could  scarcely  have  been  more  bare 
of  food.  There  was  general  want  of  everything  — of  yerba  for  the 
beasts,  who  had  to  go  back  for  forage  ; for  ourselves  there  was 
nothing;  and  food  for  the  porters  had  to  be  fetched  from  a dis- 
tance and  sent  up  after  us.  The  master  volunteered  to  come  on 
the  same  terms  as  his  men,  and  to  this  I consented,  on  condition 
that  he  worked ; though  feeling  that  it  was  somewhat  out  of  place 
to  have  one  of  the  great  landed  proprietors  of  the  country  in  my 
train.  This  shoeless,  stockingless,  and  almost  sans-culottian  youth 

1 Riobamba  probably  covers  nearly  as  much  ground  as  Quito.  Its  principal 
Plaza  is  large,  and  the  streets  are  made  of  very  unusual  width,  as  a precaution  in 
case  of  earthquakes.  For  the  same  reason  the  houses  mostly  consist  of  one  floor 
only.  It  had  an  empty  and  deserted  air,  and  in  1880  cannot,  I think,  have  contained 
more  than  7000  inhabitants. 


304 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvr. 


claimed  (I  am  informed,  truly)  to  be  the  absolute  owner  of  a 
princely  domain.  His  land,  he  said,  stretched  from  Candelaria  to 
the  Volcano  Sangai.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  farm  its  boundaries 
were  defined,  “ but  elsewhere  ” (said  with  a grand  sweep  of  the 
hand)  “it  extended  as  far  as  you  could  go  to  the  east.”  At  a 
moderate  estimate,  he  owned  three  hundred  square  miles. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  in  two  hours  from  the  farm,  we  came  to 
a patch  of  open  ground  in  the  middle  of  a forest,  and  the  Master 
of  Candelaria,  who  acted  as  guide,  said  mules  could  go  no  farther. 
Cevallos  was  left  here  with  the  animals,  while  we  continued  on 
foot,  traversing  at  first  a dense  wood,  which  was  impenetrable 
until  three  men  with  maclietas  had  cleared  a way,  and  then  800 
very  steep  feet  up  the  buttress  of  an  alp.1  This  brought  us  to  a 
track  winding,  at  a high  elevation,  along  the  northern  side  of  the 
Valley  of  Collanes.  At  the  latter  part  of  the  day  we  crossed  from 
the  right  to  the  left  bank  of  the  valley,  and  encamped  (at  12,540 
feet)  in  a little  patch  of  trees,  close  to  the  foot  of  the  highest  peak 
of  Altar. 

This  valley  of  Collanes  was  well  watered.  Rain  fell  all  the 
way,  and  during  nearly  the  whole  of  the  succeeding  four  days.  Its 
slopes  were  adapted  for  grazing,  deep  with  luxuriant  grass,  yet 
without  a house,  or  hut,  or  sign  of  life.  “ Why  are  there  no  cattle 
here  ?”  “ No  money,”  replied  the  youth,  gloomily.  “ Well,”  said 

Jean-Antoine,  “if  I had  this  valley  I would  make  a fortune.” 
When  returning,  we  asked  the  Master  if  he  would  sell  some  of 
this  land,  pointing  out  a tract  about  six  miles  long  by  three  or 
four  broad  — say  twenty  square  miles,  and  he  answered  in  the 
affirmative.  “ For  how  much  ? ” He  reflected  a little,  and  said 
“ one  hundred  pesos.”  “ For  three  hundred  and  fifty  francs,  Carrel, 
the  land  is  yours ! ” It  was  just  one  farthing  per  acre.  As  he  was 
so  moderate,  I thought  of  buying  Altar  for  myself,  and  asked  what 
1 There  were  some  very  steep  bits  on  this  journey  ; — from  the  Bridge  of  Penipe 
to  the  village  (about  350  feet) ; between  Penipe  and  Candelaria,  950  feet  in  one  con- 
tinuous ascent ; and  then  the  800  feet  mentioned  above.  The  track  in  the  Valley  of 
Collanes  itself  was  more  level  and  less  undulating  than  usual. 


CHAP.  XVI.  AT  GAMP  IX  TIIE  VALLEY  OF  COLL  AXES. 


305 


he  would  take  for  the  whole  mountain.  “No  ! no  ! he  would  not 
sell  at  any  price/’  “Why  not?”  He  was  reluctant  to  answer. 
" Why  will  you  not  sell  Altar  ?”  “Because  there  is  much  treasure 
there  ! ” 

The  treasures  of  Altar  have  yet  to  be  discovered.  The  mount- 
ain is  an  extinct  Volcano,  having  a crater  in  the  form  of  a 
horse-shoe  (larger  than  that  of  Cotopaxi),  open  towards  the  west ; 


AT  CAMP  IN  THE  VALLEY  OF  COLLANES. 


with  an  irregular  rim,  carrying  some  of  the  finest  rock  peaks  in 
Ecuador.  The  culminating  point 1 is  on  the  southern,  and  the 
second  peak  (which  is  only  slightly  inferior  in  elevation  to  the 
highest  point)  lies  opposite  to  it  on  the  northern  side  of  the  crater. 
The  walls  of  the  cirque  are  exceedingly  rugged,  with  much  snow, 
and  the  floor  is  occupied  by  a glacier,  which  is  largely  fed  by  falls 
from  ‘ hanging-glaciers  ’ on  the  surrounding  slopes  and  cliffs.  The 

1 According  to  La  Condamine  its  height  is  17,458  feet;  Reiss  & Stiibel  say  17,730 
feet.  It  is  probably  the  fifth  in  rank  of  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator. 

2 R 


30(5 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvi. 


highest  peak  rises  about  3500  feet  above  the  apparent  floor  of  the 
crater  in  cliffs  as  precipitous  as  the  steepest  part  of  the  Eigher. 

June  18.  In  Camp  in  the  Valley  of  Collanes.  Finding  that  we 
were  nearly  under  the  highest  peak,  and  (from  such  glimpses  as 
could  be  obtained  through  the  clouds)  that  there  was  very  little 
chance  of  an  ascent  being  effected  from  the  inside  of  the  crater, 
I sent  off  J.-A.  Carrel  at  5.30  a.m.,  with  two  of  the  porters,  to 
examine  the  outside,  and  Louis  with  another  to  the  outside  of  the 
second  peak.  Soon  after  mid-day  Jean-Antoine  returned,  and 
reported  unfavourably  ; and  at  4 p.m.  Louis  came  hack,  saying  he 
had  no  view  of  the  second  summit  during  the  whole  day,  but 
thought  we  could  go  as  far  as  he  had  seen.’  Determined  to  shift 
camp  to  the  north  side  of  the  mountain,  outside  the  crater,  if 
weather  would  permit.  Min.  temp,  this  night  was  33°'5,  and  on 
the  17th,  29°  Faht. 

June  19.  In  Camp  in  the  Valley  of  Collanes.  High  wind  from 
the  south-east  nearly  blew  the  tent  over  in  the  night,  though  it 
was  well  protected  by  trees.  At  daybreak  there  was  a hard  gale, 
and  we  were  unable  to  move  the  camp.  All  the  peaks  of  Altar 
were  clouded,  and  much  new  snow  had  fallen  on  the  lower  crags. 

1 They  brought  back  rock  samples  from  the  highest  points  which  were  reached. 
I judge,  from  the  aneroids  supplied  to  them,  that  Jean-Antoine’s  party  got  to  about 
15,500  feet  on  the  south  side  of  the  highest  point,  and  Louis’  to  about  14,500  feet  on 
the  north-west  side  of  the  second  summit.  In  regard  to  the  specimen  broken  by 
Jean-Antoine  from  rock  in  situ  Prof.  Bonney  says  ( Proc . Royal  Soc.,  Nov.  27,  1884), — 
“ A very  dark  compact  rock,  with  fairly  numerous  specks  of  a greyish  felspar,  and 
with  occasional  minute  vesicles.  Under  the  microscope  the  ground-mass  is  found 
to  be  a glass,  in  itself  almost  colourless,  but  so  crowded  with  opacite  as  to  appear 
almost  opaque  with  low  powers  ; in  fact  its  true  structure  can  only  be  seen  in  very 
thin  sections  and  with  high  powers.  . . It  is  a little  difficult  to  decide  whether  to 
retain  this  rock  in  the  augite-andesites,  or  to  term  it  a basalt.”  The  rock  from  the 
northern  peak  of  Altar  is  “ a reddish-grey  trachyte,  studded  with  crystals  of  rather 
glassy  white  felspar,  roughly  about  1 inch  diameter,  and  containing  some  minute 
vesicles.  The  ground-mass  appears  to  be  a clear  glass,  with  numerous  lath-like 
crystallites  of  felspar,  but  is  so  thickly  crowded  with  ferrite  and  opacite,  especially 
the  former,  as  to  be  all  but  opaque  except  in  the  thinnest  part  of  the  section.  . . The 
rock  is  an  augite-andesite,  probably  containing  some  hypersthene.” 


CHAP.  XVI. 


‘ANOTHER  SARA-URCU: 


307 


Same  state  of  things  continued  all  day.  Wind  dropped  at  night. 
Min.  temp,  again  330,5  Faht. 

Watched  for  the  peaks  all  day.  Saw  that  the  highest  point 
near  its  summit  was  guarded  by  pinnacles  as  steep  as  the  Aiguille 
du  Dru.  The  face  towards  the  north  carried  several  hanging- 
glaciers.  Frequently  heard  the  roars  of  avalanches  tumbling  from 
them  on  to  the  glacier  in  the  crater,  the  true  bottom  of  which 
probably  lies  several  hundred  feet  below  the  ice.  This  crater- 
glacier,  in  advancing,  falls  over  a steep  wall  of  rock  at  the  head  of 
the  Valley  of  Collanes,  in  a manner  somewhat  similar  to  the 
Tschingel  Glacier  in  the  Gasteren  Thai.  Some  of  the  ice  breaks 
away  in  slices,  and  is  re-compacted  at  the  base  of  the  cliff,  while 
part  maintains  the  continuity  of  the  upper  plateau  with  the  fallen 
and  smashed  fragments.  This  connecting  link  of  glacier  (seen  in 
front)  appears  to  descend  almost  vertically. 

June  20.  From  Camp  in  the  Valley  of  Collanes  to  Camp  in  the 
Valley  of  Naranjal.  Broke  up  camp  and  left  at  7.25  a.m.;  crossed 
a small  ridge  running  out  of  the  north-west  end  of  the  crater, 
and  descended  into  the  Valley  of  Naranjal.  Spied  a big  rock 
surrounded  by  small  trees,  and  camped  against  it  (13,053  feet). 
The  Valley  of  Naranjal  skirts  the  outside  of  Altar  on  the  north. 
Was  told  that  in  six  hours  it  would  bring  one  to  the  village  of 
Utufiac.  The  second  peak  of  Altar  was  almost  exactly  due  East 
of  camp. 

In  afternoon  went  with  Jean- Antoine  to  the  crest  of  the  ridge 
on  the  north  of  our  valley,  to  try  to  make  out  a route  and  for 
angles  to  fix  our  position.  Descended  after  waiting  two  hours  and 
seeing  nothing.  Great  quantities  of  smoke  rising  from  the  bottom 
of  our  valley.  Found  camp  nearly  surrounded  by  flames — Louis 
Carrel  having  set  fire  to  the  grass  to  amuse  himself.  All  hands 
had  to  work  for  an  hour  to  beat  out  the  flames  and  cut  down 
bushes,  and  we  narrowly  escaped  being  burnt  out.  Continued 
windy  and  misty  all  night,  and  nothing  could  be  seen.  “ This  is 
going  to  be  another  Sara-urcu,”  groaned  Jean  - Antoine,  whose 


308 


TRA\ ELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvi. 


thoughts  were  in  the  Yal  Tournanche.  Min.  temp,  in  night  34° 
Faht. 


June  21.  From  Camp  in  Valley  of  Naranjal  to  Penipe. 
Settled  overnight  to  return  to  Riobamba  if  there  was  no  improve- 
ment in  the  weather.  In  morning,  as  before,  fog  right  down  to 
bottom  of  valley,  with  steady  drizzle.  Master  of  Candelaria  said 
this  was  the  regular  thing,  and  gave  no  hope 
of  improvement.  Waited  a little,  and  got  occa- 
sional glimpses  of  second  summit.  Saw  a hurri- 
cane was  blowing  near  the  top,  the  snow  curling 
and  eddying  round  in  tourmentes.  Broke  up  camp 


THE  BRIDGE  OF  PENIPE. 


in  despair,  recrossed  ridge  at  north-west  end  of  Altar,1  descended 
Valley  of  Collanes  rapidly,  and  arrived  at  Penipe  at  5.5  p.m. 
Remembering  the  advice  of  the  worthy  tailor,  I endeavoured  to 

1 Round  about  the  summit  of  this  pass  between  the  two  valleys,  rather  more 
than  13  000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  on  ground  where  snow  had  fallen  every 
day  during  our  stay,  I collected  twenty-six  species  of  flowering  plants  in  flower, 
including  several  Valerians  and  Geraniums,  and  five  Gentians  (Gentiana  cerastioides, 
Griset ; G.  cernua,  II.B.K.  ; G.  foliosa,  H.B.K.  ; G.  Rima  Don , Ruiz  & Pavon  ; and 
G.  scdifolia,  H.B.K.)  In  the  same  neighbourhood  the  lichens  Usnea  cornuta , 
Koerb.,  and  Stereocaulon  tomentosam , Fries,  and  the  moss  Grimmia  amblyophylla , 
C.M.  were  abundant. 


CHAP.  XVI. 


A NIGHT  AT  PEN1PE. 


309 


sleep  outside  the  house  on  a plank  form — a thing  with  length  and 
no  breadth  ; and  finding  that  this,  through  being  near  the  ground, 
allowed  the  curs  of  Penipe  to  browse  on  my  boots,  shifted  in  the 
course  of  the  night  to  the  top  of  a table  (which  had  breadth  but 
no  length),  and  curled  myself  up,  as  printers  might  say,  into  the 
shape  of  C,  grotesque. 

Little  refreshed  by  slumber,  we  returned  across  the  rickety 
bridge  to  Riobamba ; without  incident  except  a furious  stampede 
of  our  animals,  who  took  this  Avay  of  shewing  that  they  had 
benefited  by  their  sojourn  in  the  forest.  As  a general  rule, 
Ecuadorian  mules  display  no  eagerness  to  get  either  onward  or 
upward,  and  upon  flat,  open  ground,  where  there  is  plenty  of  room, 
each  one  seems  to  wish  to  be  last ; while  on  approaching  narrow 
places,  and  ruts  in  greasy  earth  where  only  one  can  pass  at  a time, 
suddenly  galvanized  into  life,  they  dash  forward  with  outstretched 
necks,  racing  to  get  through  first ; and  deaf  to  command,  persua- 
sion or  entreaty  outstrip  the  arrieros,  unheeding  their  shouts  and 
“ lado's,”  and  rush  at  headlong  speed,  cannoning  each  other  and 
dislodging  their  loads.  Then  arises  Hullaballoo  ! while  the  corners 
of  packing-cases  are  splintered  and  their  sides  stove  in,  to  the 
future  dismay  of  consignor  and  consignee.  After  six  months’ 
experience  of  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  Ecuadorian  mule, 
one  began  to  understand  why  glass  was  dear  in  Quito. 


A THREATENED  ATTACK. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  CAHIHUAIRAZO. 

Although  compelled  by  force  of  circumstances  to  leave  Chim- 
borazo for  awhile  (see  pp.  78-80),  nothing  had  occurred  to  alter 
my  determination  to  ascend  that  mountain  again  ; and  indeed  it 
was  strengthened,  because  I perceived  that  a repetition  of  baro- 
metric observations  would  have,  for  the  measurements  of  pressure 
which  had  been  made  since  the  first  ascent,  much  the  same  value 
as  a ‘ base  of  verification  ’ in  a triangulation.  There  was  no  longer 
reluctance  on  the  part  of  my  assistants  — they  were  my  most 
willing  and  obedient  servants  — and  we  expected  to  have  the  com- 
pany of  Campana  and  David,  both  of  whom  had  shewn  some 
aptitude  in  keeping  on  their  legs.  When  preparations  were  com- 
pleted at  Riobamba,  I proposed  first  to  execute  a measurement  on 


CHAP.  XVII. 


A TENDER  CONSCIENCE. 


311 


the  Quito  road  to  get  “ a scale  ’ for  Chimborazo  ; next  to  ascend 
Carihuairazo,  to  test  the  snow-going  abilities  of  the  aspirants ; 
then  to  cross  between  the  two  mountains  and  to  ascend  Chim- 
borazo by  the  long  snow-slope  which  had  been  remarked  from 
Guaranda  (see  p.  25)  ; and  lastly  to  complete  the  circuit  of  the 
mountain.  Though  little  margin  of  time  was  left  for  the  unfore- 
seen, if  everything  went  happily,  it  was  possible  to  do  this  by  the 
8th  of  July,  the  date  on  which  it  would  be  necessary  to  leave,  to 
catch  the  steamer  going  north  from  Guayaquil. 

Before  starting  from  the  town,  we  took  advantage  of  market- 
day  to  lay  in  additional  stores  ; and  as  my  people  fancied  the  bread 
of  the  country,  which  was  brought  in  for  sale  by  Indian  women, 
Jean-Antoine  and  I went  to  the  Plaza,  and  bought  a sackful.  We 
then  moved  off  to  continue  purchasing  in  another  part,  and  pre- 
sently found  ourselves  followed  by  one  of  the  women,  who  talked 
glibly  in  some  incomprehensible  aboriginal  dialect,  proffering  an 
armful  of  bread,  which  apparently  she  wanted  to  sell.  We  shook 
our  heads  and  tried  to  get  rid  of  her,  but  she  would  not  be  rebuffed, 
and  became  an  annoyance  by  creating  ‘a  scene/  It  was  at  last 
explained  by  one  of  the  bystanders  that  she  wished  us  to  take  the 
bread  gratis,  that  it  was  our  due,  she  had  not  given  enough  for  the 
money  that  had  been  paid  ; and  nothing  would  induce  that  woman 
to  go  away  until  it  was  accepted,  and  her  conscience  was  satisfied. 

June  25. 1 From  Riobamba  to  Camp  on  loiver  slopes  of  Chim- 
borazo. Despatched  the  Carrels,  David,  Campana,  Cevallos,  and 
Domingo  at  9.15  a.m.,  with  eleven  beasts,  and  followed  at  11.15. 
Made  for  the  depression  between  Chimborazo  and  Carihuairazo, 
and  camped  about  two  and  a half  miles  to  the  north-east  of 
Chuquipoquio.2  Rainy  day.  Min.  temp,  at  night  30o-5  Faht. 

June  20.  Measurement  on  road,  &c.  Sent  out  Domingo  to  cut 

1 At  the  place  marked  Camp  7 on  Map  of  Chimborazo. 

2 On  the  34th,  I received  a letter  from  Mr.  Chambers  (Guayaquil),  which  had 
been  written,  and  despatched  by  the  ordinary  post,  on  April  3.  All  letters  in  this 
country  are  liable  to  be  opened  and  delayed.  In  1880,  it  was  said  that  the  British 
Minister’s  letters  were  the  only  ones  which  were  exempt  from  this  treatment. 


312 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvir. 


firewood  ; Campana  and  David  to  Mocha  and  the  neighbouring 
villages  to  collect  antiquities  and  to  buy  food  ; and  went  with  the 
Carrels  to  commence  measurement  on  the  high  road,  where  it 
runs  across  the  Paramo  of  Sanancajas.  On  return  to  camp  found 
that  Domingo  had  been  assailed  by  two  men,  who  took  away  his 
macheta,  and  would  not  restore  it  until  he  had  given  up  all  the 
money  he  possessed.  At  dusk  a horseman  rode  up  (who  was 
recognized  as  one  of  the  men  attached  to  Chuquipoquio),  and  in  a 
very  insolent  manner  demanded  payment  for  permission  to  camp, 
and  for  the  grass  our  beasts  were  eating.  Had  it  explained  to  him 
that  he  had  better  take  himself  off,  and  he  rode  away  shouting 
that  he  would  come  back  with  others  at  night  and  steal  our 
animals.  About  9 p.m.  Campafia  and  David  came  in.  very  excited, 
saying  that  a few  miles  off,  on  the  high  road,  two  men  had  spread 
a white  cloth  before  their  beasts,  to  try  to  frighten  them,  and  had 
then  rushed  in.  There  was  a tussle,  and  my  men  scampered  off, 
with  the  loss  of  a few  trifles. 

Putting  these  several  things  together,  it  seemed  that  Sefior 
Chiriboga  must  have  again  come  up  from 
Iliobamba  “ to  watch  over  and  care  for  us  ” 

(see  p.  82),  and  it  became  necessary  to  avoid 
his  attentions.  The  position  of  the  camp  was 
excellent  for  defence,  though  it  had  not  been 
selected  with  any  such  view.  There  was  a 
small  torrent  on  the  north  side,  and  a narrow 
but  deep  earthquake  fissure  on  the  south. 

The  two  united  towards  the  east,  and  our 
camp  was  placed  on  the  west  (at  A,  B). 

When  the  animals  were  driven  into  Z,  no 
one  could  get  at  them  without  passing  us. 

Kept  watch  until  past  midnight,  and  then 
roused  Louis  to  take  a turn  for  an  hour,  but 
before  his  time  was  half  over  he  was  snoring  again.  Continued 
to  watch,  and  at  2 a.m.  heard  whistling,  and  low  voices  of  persons 


CUAP.  XVII. 


A THREATENED  ATTACK. 


313 


approaching.  Said  nothing ; took  my  whip)  and  aroused  the 
others  ; hung  out  the  lanterns  to  shew  them  the  way,  and  shouted 
defiance.  Apparently,  the  thieves  thought  they  might  have  a 
warm  reception  and  went  off.  Night  being  very  dark,  we  saw 
no  one.  After  this  my  people  considered  that  it  might  be  as 
well  to  keep  watch,  and  I went  to  sleep).  A windy,  rainy  night. 

June  27.  From  Camp  near  High  Road  to  Camp  on  the  south  side 
of  Cariliuairazo.  At  8.15  a.m.  a muleteer  from  Machachi  (known 
to  Cevailos)  came  in  and  said  that  eleven  beasts  had  been  stolen 
from  him  last  night,  a few  miles  on  the  other  side  of  the  tambo. 
Even  the  loss  of  one  animal  would  have  caused  us  great  incon- 
venience, — probably  would  have  upset  everything  ; and,  as  there 
were  evidently  cattle-stealers  about,  we  abandoned  the  measure- 
ment, and  moved  upwards  out  of  their  reach,  and  beyond  the 
attentions  of  the  robber  of  Chuquipoquio.  At  1.30  p.m.  broke  np) 
camp,  and  proceeded  by  the  valley  between  Chimborazo  and 
Cariliuairazo,  called  Yacu-larca,  piassing  a number  of  half-wild 
cattle,  with  lashing  tails  and  twitching  heads,  who  could  have 
made  a very  piretty  mess  of  us  if  they  had  charged  ; and  about 
3.30  crossed  the  stream. 

In  the  bed  of  this  river  (the  Rio  Blanco)  there  were  quick- 
sands, of  which  I became  aware  by  being  nearly  shot  over  the 
head  of  my  animal  ; 1 2 and  the  slopies  on  the  farther  side  were  found 
to  be  very  swampy.  Large  thickets  high  up)  on  the  flanks  of 
our  mountain,  with  trees  of  considerable  age,  lead  one  to  suppose 
that  it  was  long  since  it  was  an  active  Volcano.  We  steered  for 
a rather  prominent  clump,  in  a ration  running  north  and  south, 
and  camped  at  13,377  feet  on  its  western  or  right  bank,  nearly 
due  south  of  the  two  principal  summits  of  Cariliuairazo.  Violent 
wind  at  night  from  E.  to  N.E.  Min.  temp.  33°  Faht. 

1 As  the  Rio  Blanco  was  a trifling  stream,  we  began  to  cross  it  in  three  or  four 
places  at  once.  Several  of  the  animals  passed  over  without  trouble.  My  own 
refused  to  advance,  until  whipped,  and  in  the  very  next  step  it  plunged  into  a 
quicksand.  All  hands  coming  quickly,  it  was  speedily  extricated. 

2 s 


314 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvti. 


June  28.  In  Camp.  Kept  indoors.  Had  not  got  the  bearing 
of  the  summit,  and  would  not  start.  Clouds  nearly  down  to  our 
level  all  day,  and  from  12  to  8 p.m.  rain,  sleet  or  hail  fell  unceas- 
ingly. After  that  saw  stars  for  a short  time  and  got  bearings. 
Prepared  for  an  early  start  to-morrow.  Cut  bundles  of  branches 
and  twigs  to  mark  line  of  ascent.  Rain  and  snow  recommenced 
at  9 p.m.,  and  continued  to  fall  nearly  all  night. 

June  29.  Ascent  of  the  middle  peak  of  Carihuairazo.  Left 
camp  at  5.50  a.m.  by  lantern-light,  with  the  Carrels,  David,  and 
C’ampafia, — the  two  latter  being  taken  to  test  their  snow-going 
abilities  by  a little  preliminary  exercise.  Fitted  them  out  in  some 
of  our  old  boots  and  socks,  with  gaiters  extemporized  out  of  coarse 
waterproof.  Was  also  accompanied  by  a four-footed  volunteer. 

At  the  village  of  Penipe  there  were  many  dogs,  and  one  of 
them  followed  our  caravan,  and  could  not  be  driven  away.  Pos- 
sibly somebody  had  given  it  a bone,  or  shewn  it  a little  kindness  ; 
and  as  the  mongrel  was  grateful  it  became  a pet,  and  then  of 
course  had  to  be  named,  and  finding  it  answered  to  Pedro  it  was 
known  thenceforward  as  Pedro  de  Penipe.  When  we  left  camp 
our  dog  insisted  upon  accompanying  us,  and  it  went  to  the  top  of 
the  mountain. 

From  the  reconnaissance  on  the  15th  of  January  (see  note  to 
page  87)  it  was  known  that  Carihuairazo  had  two  principal  peaks 
(lying  not  far  to  the  north  of  the  camp),  and  another  minor  one 
away  to  the  west.  The  easternmost  was  the  highest  of  the  three, 
and  we  had  marked  a prominent  ridge  leading  up  to  it,  and 
observed  that  this  ridge  was  on  the  west  of  our  vallon.  The 
ascent  could  not  have  been  made  without  this  previous  knowledge. 
The  summit  was  not  seen  until  we  were  actually  upon  it,  and 
during  the  day  it  was  seldom  possible  to  see  more  than  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  any  direction.  The  leader  was  often 
invisible  to  the  last  man  on  the  rope.  Snow-spectacles  frequently 
could  not  be  used. 

Commenced  by  steering  N.W.  up  the  hillside,  and  when  the 


CHAP.  XVII.  ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  CARIHUAIRAZO. 


315 


crest  of  the  ridge  was  reached  changed  the  course  to  K.N.W.,  and 
followed  the  arete.  Although  this  was  only  a'  little  above  14,000 
feet,  every  step  was  through  deep,  new  snow.1  About  7.30 
entered  on  the  glaciers  surrounding  the  summits.  Tied  up,  and 
placed  David  last  on  the  rope,  with  the  sticks  to  mark  the  route. 
Glacier  soon  steepened  and  required  cutting.  Small  crevasses 
were  snowed  up,  and  the  big  ones  looked  immense,  seen  through 
the  mist.  Traversed  several  large  snow  - bridges,  which  drew 
exclamations  of  wonder  from  the  Ecuadorians,  who  had  never  seen 
the  like  before.  Snow  steepened,  and  at  last  became  a wall, 
nearly  or  quite  as  rapid  as  the  final  slope  of  the  Wetterhorn. 

At  this  stage  Pedro  wanted  to  give  in,  and  sat  down  and 
whined.  Handed  him  up  from  one  to  another.  By  a stroke  of 
good  fortune  stumbled  on  a snow -bridge  crossing  the  highest 
bergschrund.  Then  the  wall  became  too  steep  to  ascend  directly. 
Made  short  zigzags,  and  presently  saw  a gigantic  cornice  looming 
through  the  fog — an  indication  that  the  summit  was  near.  Con- 
sultation ended  in  going  straight  ahead,  and  we  happily  penetrated 
the  most  assailable  point. 

Temperature  on  the  top  of  this  mountain  ranged  from  38  - 40° 
Falit.,  and  the  mean  of  two  readings  of  the  Mercurial  Barometer 
at  11  and  11.15  a.m.  (reduced  to  32°  Falit.)  was  16 '5 19  inches.2 
This  was  not  so  low  as  I expected  the  barometer  to  fall,  and  while 
still  on  the  summit  I told  the  men  that  probably  we  were  not  on 
the  highest  point.  Our  peak  terminated  in  a snow  cone  too  small 
to  stand  upon,  with  a little  patch  of  rock 3 peeping  out  a short 

1 In  January  this  ridge  was  free  from  snow. 

2 The  11  a.m.  observation  at  Guayaquil  (reduced  to  32°  Faht.)  was  29-928 
inches,  air  temperature  74°  Faht. 

3 ‘‘This  rock  breaks  with  a rather  rough  irregular  fracture.  The  colour  on  this 
is  a warm  purplish-grey  mottled  with  darker  spots,  and  speckled  with  small  rather 
light-coloured  crystals  of  felspar  with  a rather  satiny  lustre.  A few  minute  vesicles 
may  be  perceived  under  the  microscope.  . . Enclosures  of  glass  or  various  micro- 
liths  are  occasionally  seen,  but  the  majority  of  the  crystals  are  fairly  clear,  though 
a few  are  very  dirty,  and  have  a corroded  look  at  the  exterior.  There  is  also  present 
in  the  ground-mass  a fair  number  of  crystals  of  augite  of  a yellowish-green  colour, 


316 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvii. 


distance  down  upon  the  north  side,  bearing  some  lichens  ( Lecidea 
and  Lccanora)  and,  for  such  a situation,  a not  inconsiderable 
quantity  of  a Moss  which  has  been  dubiously  identified  as  Grimmia 
apocarpa,  Hedw.  This  same  species  was  found  in  the  previous 
January  near  the  second  camp  on  Chimborazo,  at  the  rather 
exceptional  height  (for  a Moss)  of  1G,G60  feet  ; but  it  was  more 
remarkable  to  find  it  on  the  very  apex  of  Carihuairazo  (1G,515 
feet),  completely  surrounded  as  it  was  by  permanent  snow  and  ice 
upon  all  sides,  as  truly  insulated  as  if  it  had  been  upon  an  island 
surrounded  with  water. 

Carihuairazo  forms  the  northern  end  of  the  massif  of  Chim- 
borazo, and  is  separated  from  the  greater  mountain  by  a depression 
called  Abraspungo.1  Its  northern  slopes  extend  almost  to  the 
town  of  Ambato,  and  the  Quito  Road  may  be  considered  its 
boundary  on  the  east.  Historians  say  that  it  was  formerly  loftier 
than  Chimborazo,  and  that  a portion  of  its  apex  fell  during  a great 
earthquake  which  occurred  at  the  end  of  the  17th  century.2  I 
cannot  imagine  that  it  was  ever  4000  feet  higher  than  it  is  at 
present.  The  ruins  of  such  a peak  would  make  a prodigious  heap, 
yet  we  saw  nothing  indicating  that  a fall  of  great  magnitude  had 
occurred.  The  present  summit-ridge  possibly  formed  the  southern 
and  western  sides  of  a crater,  of  which  the  northern  and  eastern 
sides  may  have  fallen,  and  now  lie  buried  under  the  glaciers  at  the 
summit.  This,  however,  is  pure  conjecture. 

not  exceeding  about  '03  inch  in  length,  and  two  or  three  which  in  structure, 
dichroism,  and  parallel  extinction  agree  with  hypersthene.  There  are  scattered 
crystals  of  hematite  and  scales  of  Iron-glance.  . . The  ground-mass  appears  to  be  a 
clear  glass  thickly  studded  with  dusty  ferrite,  and  with  minute  crystallites  in  part, 
at  least,  felspar.  The  rock  is,  therefore,  an  augite-an desite.” — Prof.  T.  G.  Bonney, 
Proc.  Royal  Soc.,  June  19,  1884. 

1 There  is  a rough  track  all  the  way  up  Yacu-larca  to  Abraspungo.  As  we  did 
not  descend  by  this  path  on  the  western  side,  I am  not  aware  what  direction  it 
takes,  after  crossing  the  pass. 

2 It  would  be  interesting  if  this  tradition  could  be  verified,  as  it  might  give 
a clue  to  the  age  of  the  glaciers  which  now  completely  envelop  the  top  of  the 
mountain. 


CIIAF.  XVII. 


SNOW-BLIND  AGAIN. 


317 


Occasional  glimpses 
were  obtained  through  the 
clouds  for  a few  hundred 
feet  in  various  directions, 

CARIHUAIRAZO,  FROM  THE  SOUTH. 

but  whilst  on  the  summit  we 
neither  saw  Chimborazo  nor  the  other  peaks  of  Carihuairazo  ; and 
we  returned  to  camp  uncertain  where  we  had  been.  At  4 p.m. 
the  clouds  opened,  and  shewed  that  we  had  stood  on  the  western 
of  the  two  principal  peaks  (that  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the 
engraving),  which  is  distinctly,  though  slightly,  lower  than  the 
eastern  one. 

The  rate  of  ascent  on  this  day  was  eleven  feet  per  minute 
(3138  feet  in  285  minutes).1  Taking  into  consideration  that  this 
was  their  first  experience  upon  steep  snow,  David  and  Campana 
came  out  well,  and  they  were  greatly  elated  at  the  prospect  of 
their  promised  ascent  of  Chimborazo.  Presently  their  joy  was 
turned  into  mourning.  In  a few  hours  the  whole  of  us  were 


1 Left  camp  5.50  a.m.  and  arrived  on  summit  10.35  a.m.  Left  at  11.45  a.m. ; 
came  down  fast ; never  lost  sight  of  the  sticks  we  had  planted  (though  in  some 
instances  they  were  nearly  covered  by  drifting  snow),  and  got  to  camp  at  2.5  p.m., 
without  halting. 


318 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xvii. 


incapacitated  by  snow-blindness.  Foreseeing  what  was  coming,  a 
brew  of  Sulphate  of  Zinc  was  made  in  our  largest  can,  and  served 
out  wholesale.  It  was  piteous  to  hear  the  Ecuadorians  wailing 
under  their  little  booth.  Not  knowing  what  had  befallen  them, 

they  imagined  they  had 
lost  their  sight  for  ever. 
Pedro  joined  in  the 
lamentations,  and  went 
moauing  and  stagger- 
ing about,  knocking  his 


head  unwittingly  against 
the  branches. 

June  30.  At  Camp  on 
Carihuairazo.  All  snow- 
blind,  unable  to  move.  De- 
pended for  assistance  on  fourth  camp  on  chimborazo  (14,359  feet). 

Cevallos  and  Domingo. 

July  1.  From  Camp  on  Carihuairazo  to  Fourth  Camp  on  Chim- 
borazo, across  Abraspungo.  Broke  up  camp  at  10  a.m.  ; descended 
the  vallon,  and  ascended  Yacu-larca  to  Abraspungo,  Jean-Antoine 
and  Campafia  travelling  with  bandaged  eyes,  and  the  rest  wearing 
blue  spectacles.  Stopped  on  the  summit  of  the  pass  to  read  the 


CHAP.  XVII. 


FIFTH  CAMP  ON  CHIMBORAZO. 


319 


barometer,  and  found  that  the  height  (14,480  feet)  was  a little 
above  that  of  the  Great  Arenal.  After  crossing  it  we  kept  for 
some  time  on  a level,1  and  were  then  driven  downwards  to  turn  the 
end  of  a large  stream  of  lava.2  Rounding  the  base  of  this,  we  came 
upon  an  excellent  place  for  camping,  against  a little  rivulet,  with 
plenty  of  firing,  and  made  there  our  fourth  camp  on  Chimborazo 
(14,359  feet).  Min.  temp,  in  night  30°  Faht. 

The  fourth  camp  was  not  high  enough  for  a starting-point,  and 
on  the  2nd  of  July  we  continued  a few  miles  farther  in  a south- 
westerly direction,  and  established  the  fifth  camp  at  the  height  of 
15,811  feet,  against  a very  large  block  of  lava  3 (apparently,  a loose 
mass  imbedded  in  the  soil,  that  had  either  been  ejected  or  had 
fallen  from  the  cliffs  above)  a little  to  the  north  of  the  ridge  which 
hereafter  will  be  termed  the  north-west  ridge  of  Chimborazo.4  I 
identified  this  as  the  long  ridge  seen  from  Guaranda,  and  knew 
that  it  led  directly  towards  the  summit.  Jean-Antoine,  however, 
maintained  that  I was  mistaken.  e‘  I tell  you  what  it  is,”  said  the 
Chief  of  the  Staff,  “ Monsieur  deceives  himself,  prettily 

1 A few  hundred  yards  on  the  west  of  the  pass,  the  swampy  soil  suddenly  gives 
place  to  firm  ground  ; and  a little  farther  on  the  sandy  slopes  commence  which  stretch 
uninterruptedly  round  the  nortti-west  and  western  sides  of  the  mountain. 

2 This  prominent  lava  stream  appeared  to  issue  from  the  glaciers  at  the  height  of 
about  18,000  feet, — one  could  not  see  precisely  where,  owing  to  the  large  quantity 
of  new-fallen  snow. 

3 There  was  great  difficulty  in  breaking  specimens  from  this  mass,  which  was 
unlike  any  other  rock  that  I saw  on  the  mountain.  When  broken,  it  crumbled 
somewhat  in  the  manner  of  loaf-sugar.  Prof.  Bonney  saj's  : — “A  rather  crumbly 
rock  of  very  irregular  fracture,  having  a very  dark  grey  ground-mass,  in  which 
crystals  of  glassy -white  felspar,  up  to  about  "2  inch  long,  are  imbedded.  When 
examined  microscopically,  it  does  not  appear  to  differ  materially  from  some  of  those 
already  described  ...  is  different  only  in  the  colour  of  the  ground-mass,  and  is  best 
named  a hyperstheue-andesite.” — Proe.  Royal  Soc.,  June  19,  1881. 

4 The  direction  of  this  ridge  is  not  strictly  north-west.  It  is  more  nearly 
north-north-west. 


CHIMBORAZO,  FROM  THE  NORTH-NORTH- WEST. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

OX  THE  SECOND  ASCENT  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 

The  aspect  of  Chimborazo  from  the  north-north-west  was  quite 
unlike  its  appearance  from  any  other  direction.  The  two  summits 
could  not  be  seen,1  and  the  mountain  seemed  to  terminate  in  one 
very  flat  dome.  I found  that  this  apparent  summit  was  actually 
at  C on  my  map,  and  was  part  of  the  glacier  which  I have  named 
Glacier  de  Reiss,  after  Dr.  W.  Reiss  of  Berlin.  Under  this 
great  flat  dome  there  were  vertical  sections  of  glacier,  crowning 
precipices  of  rock,  in  a manner  similar  to  those  which  are  repre- 
sented in  the  plate  facing  p.  76  ; and  falls  of  ice  occurred  over 
these  cliffs,  as  the  glacier  advanced,  like  those  that  are  described 
upon  page  78.2  In  order  to  be  beyond  the  range  of  these  ice- 

1 The  highest  of  the  two  summits  could  be  seen  from  the  fourth  camp,  rising 
over  the  glacier  that  I have  named  Glacier  de  Spruce.  The  very  highest  point 
was,  probably,  concealed. 

2 The  blocks  of  ice  that  fell  from  the  faces  of  glacier  marked  E,  E (on  the  inset 
Sketch  plan  of  part  of  the  south  side  of  Chimborazo),  over  the  cliffs  B,  C,  sometimes 
rolled  down  the  Glacier  de  Debris  as  far  as  Station  4. 


CHAP.  XVIII. 


PEDRO  DECLINES  AN  ASCENT. 


321 


avalanches,  I kept  the  camp  about  three  miles  from  the  base  of 
the  cliffs. 

The  north-west  ridge  led  up  to  the  western  end  of  ‘ the 
Northern  Walls/1 2  and  the  tent  might  have  been  placed  upon  it 
even  higher  than  the  third  camp  on  the  south-west  ridge  (17,285 
feet).  To  have  done  this  would  have  cost  much  labour  in 
porterage,  and,  balancing  things,  it  seemed  preferable  to  stop 
below,  closer  to  things  burnable  ; although  the  starting-point 
would  be  nearly  fifteen  hundred  feet  lower  than  upon  the  first 
occasion,  and  the  ascent,  consequently,  would  be  that  amount 
longer.  We  had  come  to  our  very  last  day.  In  one  way  and 
another  all  our  margin  of  time  had  been  dissipated,  and  unless  the 
ascent  was  effected  on  the  3rd  of  July  it  could  not  be  made  at  all. 
This  was  in  no  sense  the  fault  of  my  people.  Each  man  had  his 
allotted  tasks,  knew  them,  and  did  them  ; and  during  these  last 
days  every  one  worked  with  a cheerfulness  and  alacrity  beyond 
praise.  Without  bidding,  Jean- Antoine  now  went  to  reconnoitre 
the  ridge  ; Louis,  David,  and  Campana  made  things  comfortable  ; 
Cevallos  and  Domingo  drove  away  the  animals  to  pasturage  ; and 
on  the  3rd,  while  it  was  still  night,  all  were  in  readiness,  booted 
and  gaitered,  waiting  for  the  signal  to  start. 

Whilst  chafing  hands  around  the  camp-fire/  Domingo  and  our 
four-footed  friend  appeared  out  of  the  darkness.  The  arriero-lad 
came  to  volunteer  his  services.  I said  ••  No  ; a couple  of  tyros  are 
enough  on  a rope.”  Then  a sudden  idea  seized  us.  Let  us  take 
Pedro.  He  was  already  entitled  to  bow-wows  from  all  dogs  who 
had  stood  on  inferior  eminences, — let  us  enable  him  to  take  pre- 
cedence over  the  entire  canine  race.  “ Ha ! Pedro ; good  doo-, 
come  here  ! ” Pedro  was  sociable,  and  came  willingly  so  long  as  we 
were  round  the  fire  ; but  moved  away  when  we  began  to  load,  and 

1 I conjecture  this  was  the  ridge  by  which  Dr.  Stiibel  endeavoured  to  ascend 
Chimborazo.  On  the  3rd  of  July,  from  17,000  feet  upwards,  it  was  entirely  covered 
with  snow,  and  down  to  16,000  feet  there  were  many  patches  upon  it. 

2 The  minimum  this  night  was  25°  Faht. 

2 T 


322 


Tit  A VELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap,  xviii. 


looked  doubtfully.  We  took  up  the  axes — he  went  farther  off.  Calls 
were  in  vain,  and  finally  he  put  his  tail  between  his  legs  and  bolted 
down  hill  as  hard  as  he  could  scamper.  “ No,  my  masters.  You 
may  go  up,  hut  / shall  go  down — no  more  snow-blindness  for  me.” 

At  5.15  a.m.,  when  tones  began  to  change  to  detail,  we  left  the 
camp  ; and  this  day,  for  once,  the  heavens  seemed  to  smile  upon 
us.  The  sky  was  bright — the  air  serene  ; and  long  before  dawn, 
sixty  miles  away,  we  saw  the  cone  of  Cotopaxi  clear  cut  against  a 
cloudless  horizon,  and  remarked  how  tranquil  the  great  Volcano 
looked,  and  that  not  a sign  of  smoke  was  rising  from  its  crater.1 
Soon  a cold  wind  sprang  up.  I lingered  behind,  to  beat  my  hands 
and  feet,  and  whilst  resting  back  against  a rock,  looking  towards 
the  north,  saw  the  commencement  of  an  eruption. 

At  5.40  a.m.  two  puffs  of  steam  were  emitted,  and  then  there 
was  a pause.  At  5.45  a column  of  inky  blackness  began  to  issue, 
and  went  up  straight  in  the  air  with  such  prodigious  velocity  that 
in  less  than  a minute  it  had  risen  20,000  feet  above  the  rim  of  the 
crater.2  I could  see  the  upper  10,000  feet  of  the  volcano,  and 
estimated  the  height  of  the  column  at  double  the  height  of  the 
visible  portion  of  the  mountain.  The  top  of  the  column,  therefore, 
was  nearly  forty  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  At  that 
elevation  it  encountered  a powerful  wind  blowing  from  the  east, 
and  was  rapidly  borne  towards  the  Pacific  ; remaining  intensely 
black,  seeming  to  spread  very  slightly,  and  presenting  the  appear- 
ance of  a gigantic  — i drawn  upon  an  otherwise  perfectly  clear  sky. 
It  was  then  caught  by  wind  from  the  north,  and,  borne  towards 
us,  appeared  to  spread  quickly. 

Meanwhile  the  others  progressed  steadily  over  the  snow-beds 
and  stony  debris  on  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  and  I did  not  catch 
them  for  nearly  an  hour.  At  6.50  a.m.  we  tied  up,  as  the  snow 

> This  was  the  only  occasion  on  which  we  saw  the  crater  quite  free  from  smoke 
anil  steam  during  the  whole  of  our  stay  in  Ecuador. 

2 I did  not  note  the  time  it  took  to  rise  to  this  elevation.  My  impression  is 
that  it  was  an  affair  of  a few  seconds. 


CHAP.  XVIII. 


JEAN- ANTOINE  BECOMES  DEAF. 


323 


became  continuous,  and  proceeded  along  the  arete  until  it  came 
to  a termination  at  the  extreme  western  end  of  ‘ the  Northern 
Walls*;1  and  then  bore  away  horizontally  to  the  right,  to  an 
islet  of  rock,  and  halted  at  8.35  a.m.  for  breakfast.2  The  barometer 
said  that  we  had  risen  3000  feet  in  three  hours  and  twenty 
minutes;  — the  mercury  had  sunk  from  16'950  to  15T77  inches, 
while  temperature  had  risen  from  30°  to  46°  Faht.  We  were 
already  18,900  feet  above  the  sea. 


COMMENCEMENT  OF  THE  ERUPTION 
OF  COTOPAXI,  JULY  3,  1880. 


In  a half  - hour  the  march  was 
resumed.  The  slopes  here  were  too 
steep  for  direct  escalade,  and  we  still 
bore  away  to  the  south  (traversing 
the  head  of  the  glacier  which  I have 
named  after  Dr.  Alphons  Stiibel  of 
Dresden),  opening  out  the  valley  of 
the  Chimbo,  and  an  immense  pro- 
spect beyond.  “Hi  ! Carrel  ! what  is 

that?”  “ Guaranda,  Monsieur.”  “ Guaranda  ! Monsieur  deceives 
himself,  does  he?”  but  the  man  in  front  suddenly  became 
deaf,  and  could  not  hear  a word.  At  this  time  the  view  was 
magnificent.  We  could  see  to  the  bottom  of  the  basin  of  the 
Chimbo,  eleven  thousand  feet  below,  and  overlooked  the  country 
on  the  west  by  four  or  five  thousand  feet.  Between  us  and  the 
sea,  the  whole  expanse  from  north  to  south  was  filled  by  the 
Pacific  Range  of  Ecuador,  with  countless  peaks  and  ramifications — 


This  is  just  beyond  the  range  of  the  engraving  on  p.  320,  on  the  right. 
At  the  spot  marked  Z on  the  Map  of  Chimborazo. 


324 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TIIE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap,  xviii. 


valleys,  vallons,  dells  and  dales,  backed  by  the  Ocean,1  rising  above 
the  haze  which  obscured  the  flat  coast  land. 

Now  we  turned  back  to  the  north,  and  zigzagged  to  and  fro  to 
ease  the  ascent,  getting  into  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  which  was 
already  more  than  fifty  degrees  high.  The  clouds  from  Cotopaxi 
were  bearing  down  upon  Chimborazo,  seeming  to  rise  higher  and 
yet  higher  in  the  sky,  although  they  were  actually  descending. 
For  a full  hour  we  saw  the  immense  column  still  rising  from  the 
crater,  and  then  the  clouds  which  were  drifting  towards  us  shut 
it  out. 

When  they  commenced  to  intervene  between  the  sun  and  our- 
selves the  effects  which  were  produced  were  truly  amazing.  We 
saw  a green  sun,  and  smears  of  colour  something  like  verdigris 
green  high  up  in  the  sky,  which  changed  to  equally  extreme  blood- 
reds,  or  to  coarse  brick-reds,  and  then  passed  in  an  instant  to  the 
colour  of  tarnished  copper,  or  shining  brass.  No  words  can  convey 
the  faintest  idea  of  the  impressive  appearance  of  these  strange 
colours  in  the  sky  — seen  one  moment  and  gone  the  next  — re- 
sembling nothing  to  tvhicli  they  can  properly  be  compared,  and 
surpassing  in  vivid  intensity  the  wildest  effects  of  the  most 
gorgeous  sunsets. 

The  terms  that  I have  employed  to  designate  the  colours  which 
were  seen  are  both  inadequate  and  inexact.  Their  most  striking 
features  were  their  extraordinary  strength,  their  extreme  coarseness, 
and  their  dissimilarity  from  any  tints  or  tones  ever  seen  in  the 
sky,  even  during  sunrises  or  sunsets  of  exceptional  brilliancy. 
They  were  unlike  colours  for  which  there  are  recognized  terms. 
They  commenced  to  be  seen  when  the  clouds  began  to  pass  between 
the  sun  and  ourselves,  and  were  not  seen  previously.  The  changes 
from  one  hue  to  another  had  obvious  connection  with  the  varying 
densities  of  the  clouds  that  passed ; which  were  sometimes  thick 
and  sometimes  light.  No  colours  were  seen  when  they  moved 
overhead,  and  surrounded  us  on  all  sides. 

1 The  part  seen  was  probably  distant  300  or  more  miles. 


chap',  xviii.  THE  SECOND  ASCENT  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 


325 


At  11  a.m.,  getting  into  the  direct  rajs  of  the  sun,  the  heat 
became  oppressive,  and  David,  exhausted  by  his  flounderings  in 
the  snow,  wished  to  return.  “ Impossible,  David  ; it  is  now  or 
never.”  Campaua,  a light  weight,  sank  in  slightly,  and  shewed  no 
signs  of  fatigue.  At  11.30  a.m.,  we  were  again  facing  Guaranda  ; 
and  striking  the  former  route,  made  as  before  for  the  plateau 
between  the  two  domes,  bending  round  at  first  to  the  north,  and 
subsequently  to  the  east ; avoiding  the  lowest  part  of  the  hollow, 
yet  occasionally  sinking  up  to  the  knees.  At  1 p.m.,  when  close 
to  the  very  highest  point,  a great  clamour  and  cackling  broke  out 
amongst  the  men,  for  the  regular  sweep  of  the  dome  was  inter- 
rupted by  some  object.  It  was  the  top  of  our  ten-foot  pole  sticking 
out  of  the  snow,  with  a few  tattered  fragments  of  the  red  flag  still 
attached.1  Nature  had  built  a wall  of  ice  about  six  feet  long  on 
the  eastern  (or  windward)  side,  and  the  flagstaff  stood  clear  of  it 
in  front,  with  the  frayed  remnants  of  serge  stiff  frozen,  pointing 
like  fingers  to  the  south-west,  registering  the  direction  of  the  wind 
that  had  prevailed  ! 2 

During  this  time  the  clouds  from  Cotopaxi  had  been  constantly 
approaching,  and  about  mid-day  they  passed  overhead.3  The  sun 
had  become  invisible,  and  temperature  had  fallen  ; and  our  first 
care  was  to  dig  a trench  to  leeward  of  the  flagstaff  to  obtain  pro- 
tection, for  the  wind  felt  dangerously  cold.  Shortly  after  the 
barometer  was  hung  up,  it  read  14-050  inches,  with  air  tempera- 
ture 20°  Faht.,  and  it  continued  to  fall  until  2 p.m.,  and  then, 
with  the  thermometer  at  15°  Faht.,  the  mercury  stood  at  14-028 
inches,  and  loiver  it  would  not  go.* 

When  the  clouds  from  Cotopaxi  first  passed  overhead,  they 

1 All  except  the  few  scraps  shewn  in  the  engraving  facing  p.  326  had  been 
blown  away  by  the  wind. 

2 We  arrived  on  the  summit  at  1.20  p.m.,  having  occupied  four  hours  and  a 
quarter  over  the  ascent  of  the  last  sixteen  hundred  feet. 

3 They  had  taken  six  hours  to  travel  about  eighty  miles. 

4 At  2 p.m.,  when  the  Mercurial  Barometer  (red.  to  32°  Faht.)  was  14-014 
inches,  the  Aneroid  E read  12990  inches. 


326 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  TIIE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap,  xviii. 


were  still,  I think,  not  less  than  5000  feet  above  us  (or  25,000  to 
26,000  feet  above  the  sea),  and  they  extended  far  to  the  south 
before  the  dust  of  which  they  were  composed  began  to  fall  upon 
the  summit  of  Chimborazo.  It  commenced  to  settle  about  ten 
minutes  after  our  arrival,  and  in  the  course  of  an  hour  caused  the 
snowy  summit  to  look  like  a ploughed  field.  It  filled  our  eyes  and 
nostrils,  rendered  eating  and  drinking  impossible,1  and  at  last 
reduced  us  to  breathing  through  handkerchiefs.  The  brass  and 
glass,  of  the  mercurial  barometer,  like  everything  else,  became 
coated  with  this  all-pervading  dust,  but  the  vernier  afforded  pro- 
tection to  the  portion  of  the  tube  which  was  behind  it,  and  this 
protected  part  remained  reasonably  bright,  while  all  the  rest  of 
the  tube  above  and  below  was  thickly  encrusted.  The  height  of 
the  barometer  on  the  summit  of  Chimborazo,  on  July  3,  1880,  was 
registered  in  this  manner  by  a volcanic  eruption  which  occurred 
more  than  sixty  miles  away ! 

The  surrounding  country  became  obscured  as  soon  as  the  fall- 
ing dust  reached  our  level,  and  thus  our  last  ascent  in  Ecuador, 
like  all  the  rest,  rendered  no  view  from  the  summit.  By  2 o’clock 
in  the  afternoon  even  the  Pointe  Veintemilla  could  not  be  seen, 
and  the  darkness  continued  to  increase  so  much  that  by  2.30  p.m. 
we  thought  it  was  best  to  depart.  The  last  thing  done,  before 
leaving,  was  photographing  the  top  of  Chimborazo.  The  sky  was 
dark  with  the  clouds  of  ash,  the  people  shivered  under  a tempera- 
ture of  15°  Faht.,  the  wind  fluttered  everything  that  could  move, 
the  snow  gave  a poor  foundation  for  the  stand,  and  the  gloom 
made  focussing  uncertain.  All  the  conditions  were  favourable  for 
the  production  of  a bad  photograph,  and  the  result  was  just  what 
might  be  expected.  It  is  reproduced  literally  here,  without  em- 
bellishment, an  authentic  record  of  a memorable  occasion.'2 

1 My  observed  temperature  on  the  summit  of  Chimborazo,  on  July  3,  was  960-3 
Faht.  See  Appendix  F. 

2 An  ‘instantaneous’  plate  was  exposed  for  one  minute,  and  it  was  necessary 
to  keep  wiping  the  lens  during  the  whole  of  the  operation.  The  engraving  shews 
the  dust  commencing  to  settle  among  the  ripples  in  the  snow. 


PHOTOGRAPH  TAKEN  ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  CHIMBORAZO, 


CHAP.  XVIII. 


THE  DESCENT. 


327 


The  surface  of  the  snow  had  hardened  under  the  increasing 
cold,  and  we  slipped  along  quickly, — Louis  first,  followed  by 
David  ; then  Campafla  in  my  charge  ; while  Jean  - Antoine  came 
last,  and  acted  as  sheet  - anchor.  Though  the  little  Interpreter 
tumbled  about  gloriously,  he  tugged  no  more  than  a good  - sized 
fish  at  the  end  of  a line  ; and  we  descended  boisterously,  cutting 
the  zigzags,  and  finding  great  advantage  from  sticks  which  had 
been  planted  to  mark  the  route,  in  the  same  manner  as  upon 
Sara-urcu  and  Carihuairazo.  About  4.45  a brief  halt  was  made  to 
get  an  observation  of  the  mercurial  barometer  for  the  height  of  the 
snow-line  (10,700  feet),  and  then,  casting  off  the  rope,  we  put  on 
full  steam,  and  arrived  at  camp  at  5.10  p.m.1 

By  this  time  the  coarser  particles  of  the  Volcanic  Dust  had 
fallen  below  our  level,  and  were  settling  down  into  the  valley  of 
the  Chimbo  (the  bottom  of  which  was  still  7000  feet  beneath  us), 
causing  it  to  appear  as  if  filled  by  thick  smoke.  The  finest  ones 
were  still  floating  in  the  air  like  a light  fog,  and  so  it  continued 
until  night  closed  in.  The  tent  was  laden  with  the  dust,  and  a 
large  quantity  had  slipped  and  fallen  down  its  sloping  sides.  I 
collected  more  than  three  ounces  from  the  roof,  and  this  was  not 
the  half  of  what  remained  upon  it.  Subsequently,  I found  that  at 
the  town  of  Ambato,  between  11  and  11.15  a.m.,  upon  a piece  of 
paper  one  foot  square,  spread  out  to  receive  it,  four  ounces  were 

1 I have  felt  it  unnecessary  to  say  much  about  the  second  ascent  of  Chimborazo, 
beyond  indicating  the  direction  that  was  followed.  The  north-west  ridge  (that 
referred  to  upon  p.  25,  and  shewn  on  the  left  of  the  engraving  facing  p.  24)  leads 
with  remarkable  directness  towards  the  summit,  and  its  crest  or  arete  is  unusually 
free  from  impediments.  At  the  upper  end,  where  it  abuts  against  the  Northern 
Walls  (or,  perhaps  it  should  be  said,  where  it  issues  from  them,  for  I suspect  that 
this  is  another  lava-stream),  one  is  already  18,900  feet  above  the  sea.  and  so  far  as 
this  point  ice-axes  are  not  required.  It  is  then  necessary  to  bear  towards  the  south, 
and  a certain  amount  of  cutting  is  obligatory  whilst  traversing  the  head  of  the 
Glacier  de  Stiibel.  Crevasses  there,  though  numerous,  are  easily  avoided,  and  the 
steepest  angles  of  the  slopes  do  not  exceed  35°.  Beyond  this,  the  route  joins  that 
described  in  Chapter  III.  Neither  upon  Jan.  4 nor  July  3 were  there  any  open 
crevasses  in  the  plateau  between  the  two  domes. 


328 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap,  xviii. 


collected  ; and  that  at  Riobamba,  upon  paper  similarly  exposed, 
about  as  much  fell  per  square  foot  as  upon  Chimborazo. 

From  these  data  I have  calculated  the  minimum  quantity 
which  must  have  been  ejected  upon  this  occasion.  Drawing  two 
lines  radiating  from  Cotopaxi,  one  leading  to  Kiobamba,  and  the 
other  to  an  equal  distance  west  of  the  fifth  camp  (within  which 
limits  it  is  certain  that  the  dust  fell),  and  estimating  that  from  our 
camp  to  Ambato  only  one-eighth  of  an  ounce  fell  on  each  square 
foot,  and  that  from  Ambato  to  the  Volcano  four  ounces  fell  on 
each  square  foot,  I find  that,  at  the  least,  two  millions  of  tons  must 
have  been  ejected  during  this  eruption.1  The  quantity  is  under- 
estimated in  several  ways.  The  amount  is  ignored  that  was 
carried  beyond  the  limits  which  have  been  indicated,  though  it  fell 
over  many  hundreds  of  square  miles.2  The  quantity  only  is  taken 
into  account  which  was  actually  found  upon  the  tent  — not  that 
which  had  fallen  from  it,  nor  that  which  had  still  to  descend  ; and 
from  Ambato  northwards  a fall  of  fifteen  minutes  only  is  reckoned, 
although  it  continued  to  settle  for  several  hours.3 

I have  found  it  interesting  to  compare  the  dust  deposited  upon 
Chimborazo  with  that  which  fell  upon  our  tent  when  we  were 
encamped  on  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi  (see  p.  153),  which  was 


1 This  amount  is  equal  to  a column  of  solid  lava  (2'65  spec,  grav.)  38  feet  square 
and  18,600  feet  high. 

2 And  on  ships  upon  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

3 As  pure  and  undefiled  Volcanic  Dusts  can  seldom  be  procured,  and  are 
desiderata  with  students,  I have  placed  the  collections  mentioned  below  in  the 
hands  of  Mr.  J.  R.  Gregory,  88  Charlotte  Street,  Fitzroy  Square,  from  whom 
samples  can  be  obtained. 

1.  Dust  which  fell  at  Quito  (after  an  aerial  voyage  of  34  miles)  from  the  great 
eruption  of  Cotopaxi  in  June,  1877  (see  p.  125).  2.  Dust  which  fell  on  the  tent  on 

Chimborazo  (after  an  aerial  voyage  of  64  miles)  from  the  eruption  of  Cotopaxi, 
July  3,  1880.  3.  Lapilli  and  dust  from  the  apex  of  the  cone  of  Cotopaxi  (10,500 
feet).  4.  Granular  dust  from  sheltered  places  on  Cotopaxi  (see  p.  141).  5.  Lapilli 

from  15,000  feet  on  Cotopaxi.  6.  Pumice  lapilli  from  Ambato  (see  p.  04).  7.  Fine 

dust  from  the  ten-inch  bed  at  Machaehi  (see  p.  104).  8.  Fine  pumice-dust  from  the 

lowest  bed  at  Machaehi  (see  p.  104). 


chap,  xviii.  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  VOLCANIC  DUSTS. 


329 


ejected  during  intermittent  discharges  of  steam,  and,  presumably, 
was  torn  off  by  the  violence  of  the  blasts.  It  is  reasonable  to  find 
that  there  is  a considerable  difference  in  the  weight  and  dimensions 
of  the  particles  of  these  two  dusts.  The  larger  and  heavier  atoms 
naturally  settle  soonest,  and  the  smaller  and  lighter  ones  travel 
farthest.  Upon  several  occasions  I have  endeavoured  to  count  the 
number  of  particles  in  a grain  of  the  Chimborazo  deposit,  and  have 
found  that  the  smaller  ones  do  not  weigh  so  much  as  sgl^00  part 
of  a grain,  and  that  the  finer  atoms  are  lighter  still.1 

1 Professor  Bonney  has  examined  the  two  dusts  microscopically,  and  has  favoured 
me  with  the  following  descriptions.  No.  I.  (Dust  which  fell  on  the  tent  at  the  summit 
of  Cotopaxi,  Feb.  18-19,  1880).  “The  grains  range  from  '03  inch  in  diameter 
downwards,  a considerable  proportion  varying  between  this  and  about  '01  inch. 
They  may  be  thus  distinguished: — (A)  rock  fragments,  (B)  mineral  fragments. 
(A).  These  consist  of  (a)  chips  of  colourless  or  nearly  colourless  glass,  sometimes 
almost  clear,  sometimes  clouded  with  ferrite  or  opacite,  and  containing  microlitlis 
of  felspar,  &c. — chips,  in  short,  of  glassy  lavas.  (6)  rough  opaque,  or  nearly  opaque 
grains,  sometimes  translucent  at  the  edges,  and  including  microlitlis  of  felspar  and 
augite ; these,  when  viewed  with  a dark  background,  have  a scoriaceous  exterior, 
and  are  greyish,  blackish,  or  reddish-brown  in  colour;  they  are  evidently  minute 
lapilli  of  an  andesitic  lava.  (B).  Among  these  the  following  minerals  may  be  recog- 
nized : — (a)  felspar,  showing  occasionally  plagioclastic  twinning  ; (b)  more  rare,  augite 
and  perhaps  hypersthene.  I notice  fragments  both  of  glass  and  of  minerals  even 
among  the  finer  dust,  together  with  black  specks,  probably  magnetite.” 

No.  II.  ( Dust  which  v>as  ejected  bij  Cotopaxi  upon  July  3,  1880,  and  fell  upon 
the  tent  at  the  fifth  camp  on  Chimborazo,  distant  sixty  four  miles).  “ The  grains 
which  make  up  this  interesting  deposit,  as  indicated  by  a glance  at  the  slides  with 
the  unaided  eye,  are,  as  might  be  expected,  decidedly  smaller  than  those  which 
characterise  No.  I,  a very  few  only  attain  to  a diameter  of  '01  inch,  and  this  is 
barely  exceeded.  Fragments  measuring  from  -003  to  '004  inch  are  common,  and 
they  vary  from  this  size  to  the  finest  dust ; the  characteristic  of  the  deposit,  so  far 
as  I can  ascertain,  being  the  presence  of  grains  ranging  from  about  '001  to  '003 
inch.  They  consist,  as  before,  of  rock  fragments  and  mineral  fragments.  Among 
the  former  (A)  the  rough  dark  lapilli  are  rare  ; the  majority  being  translucent,  and 
apparently  smooth  externally.  These  are  chips  of  glass,  commonly  of  a pale 
brownish  colour,  in  which  acicular  microlitlis,  probably  of  felspar,  are  frequent,  with 
specks  of  ferrite.  . . (B).  The  mineral  fragments  are  felspar,  as  above,  with  a little 
augite,  and  there  is  one  well-formed  hypersthene  crystal  01  inch  long,  in  which  are 
enclosures  of  iron  peroxide,  &c.,  and,  I think,  minute  cavities.  Fragments  of 
felspar  and  acicular  crystallites  are  rather  abundant  among  the  finer  dust.” 

2 U 


330 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap,  xviii. 


The  sole  difference  between  this  eruption  and  others  which  had 
been  remarked  of  Cotopaxi,  was,  probably,  only  one  of  degree.  If 
the  pipe  of  the  Volcano  — its  channel  of  communication  with  the 
depths  below  — had  been  filled  with  molten  lava,  a means  of  exit 
would  have  been  afforded  which  would  have  prevented  this  great 
manifestation  of  energy.  The  outburst  suggested  explosion, — a 
violent  deliverance  of  confined  force  ; and  I conjecture  that  the 
steam  which  was  constantly  welling  up,  instead  of  being  permitted 
to  escape  freely,  or  by  intermittent  discharges,  was  more  effectually 
imprisoned  than  usual  [in  the  manner  suggested  upon  pp.  153-4], 
and  that  thus  the  temporary  quietude  was  produced  which  was 
noted  in  the  early  morning.  During  this  time  the  subterranean 
forces  were  gathering  strength,  under  constantly-increasing  heat, 
due  to  augmented  pressure  ; at  last  acquiring  power  sufficient  to 
burst  through  the  barrier,  and  then  issued  in  a blast  of  inconceiv- 
able violence  ; rushing  in  a few  seconds  from  depths  with  heat 
above  the  fusing-point  of  iron  to  cold  beneath  the  freezing-point  of 
mercury,  rending  the  solid  rock  through  which  it  passed  into 
infinitesimal  fragments,  and  driving  millions  of  tons  of  this  im- 
palpable powder  vertically  in  the  air,  twenty  thousand  feet  above 
the  lip  of  the  crater. 

The  new  readings  of  the  barometer  on  the  summit  of  Chim- 
borazo, agreeing  closely  with  those  which  were  taken  upon  the 
first  ascent,  gave  assurance,  whilst  still  in  the  country,  that  there 
was  no  material  error  in  the  measurements  of  atmospheric  pressure 
which  had  been  made  in  the  interior  of  Ecuador  ; and  the  altitude 
which  has  been  deduced  from  them  for  Chimborazo,  by  nearly 
according  with  that  which  was  obtained  from  the  previous  obser- 
vations, renders  it  probable  that  the  accepted  height  of  that 
mountain  is  too  great  by  about  9 27  feet} 

For  a second  time  we  saw  the  barometer  standing  nearly  as 
low'  as  14  inches,  without  experiencing  what  I have  ventured  to 
term  the  acute  symptoms  of  mountain  - sickness ; and,  by  a con- 
1 See  Chapter  XIX.  for  some  further  remarks  upon  the  height  of  Chimborazo. 


CHAP.  XVIII. 


A BAROMETRIC  LEVEL. 


331 


siderable  improvement  in  our  rate,  had  the  opinion  confirmed  that 
man  can  become  habituated  to  low  pressures.  The  ascent  from 
the  fifth  camp  (15,811  feet)  to  the  summit  (20,498  feet),  excluding 
halts,  occupied  445  minutes,  and  was  therefore  executed  at  the 
rate  of  G32  feet  per  hour.  The  descent,  excluding  halts,  was  made 
in  145  minutes,  or  at  the  rate  of  1939  feet  per  hour, — the  mean  of 
these  being  1280  feet  per  hour  ; a speed  which,  although  comparing 
unfavourably  with  the  superlative  rates  quoted  upon  pp.  31-2,  was 
a distinct  advance  upon  our  first  essay. 

On  the  4th  of  July  we  continued  the  circuit  of  the  mountain 
by  a high  - level  route,  intending  to  stop  for  the  night  at  the 
position  of  the  First  Camp  ; and  the  march  was  made  in  a trifle 
over  five  hours  (for  most  of  the  way  at  an  elevation  of  14,500 
to  15,000  feet),  without  coming  across  any  impediment  worth 
mention  ! The  bearing  of  the  First  Camp  was  not  known  at 
starting,  and  I undertook  to  lead  the  caravan  by  the  guidance  of 
the  barometer. 

On  the  2Gth  of  December,  at  the  First  Camp  on  Chimborazo, 
the  barometer  stood  at  17 '9  inches,  and  from  daily  observation  of 
it  I knew  the  great  improbability  that  atmospheric  pressure  would 
be  so  much  as  one-tenth  of  an  inch  either  higher  or  lower  at  the 
same  spot.  I proposed  to  intersect  the  Vallon  de  Carrel,  a little 
higher  than  the  First  Camp,  by  keeping  on  a level  with  a pressure 
of  17'8  inches.  For  this  purpose  Aneroids  were  more  useful  than 
the  Mercurials,  inasmuch  as  they  could  be  read  on  horseback  while 
in  movement,  without  checking  the  march  of  the  caravan  ; and  I 
trusted  to  them  alone,  after  having  ascertained  their  Index-errors 
by  comparison  with  the  Mercurial.1  Sometimes  the  nature  of  the 
ground  drove  us  a little  up  or  down,  and  pressure  fell  or  rose  as 
the  case  might  be  ; but  at  the  earliest  opportunity  the  level  of 
17 '8  inches  was  resumed,  and  no  other  means  were  employed  to 
find  the  desired  jilace. 

1 It  was  indispensable  to  do  this,  in  consequence  of  the  large  errors  they  had 
acquired.  See  How  to  use  the  Aneroid  Barometer , § 66. 


332 


TRAVELS  AMONG  ST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap,  xviii. 


Upon  leaving  the  fifth  camp1  we  steered  away  from  the 
summit  for  forty  minutes,  to  turn  the  north-west  ridge  ; and  then 
bore  round  to  the  S.W.,  S.S.W.,  and  for  a long  distance  went  nearly 
due  South,  below  the  Glacier  de  Stubel  — the  broadest  glacier 
upon  Chimborazo.  After  passing  this,  solely  at  the  instigation  of 
the  aneroids,  I changed  the  course  to  S.E.  by  E.,  and  about  4 p.m. 
had  the  satisfaction  of  pointing  out  to  my  people  (through  a gap 
in  the  ridge  on  the  north  side  of  the  Vallon  de  Carrel)  the  place 
where  we  had  encamped  on  the  26tli  of  December. 

The  part  of  Chimborazo  traversed  on  this  day  was  barren  to 
the  last  degree,  covered  with*  beds  of  sand,  extending  upwards  (as 
we  had  found  in  the  Vallon  de  Carrel)  nearly  to  the  snow,  and 
downwards  farther  than  could  be  seen.  All  fissures  and  minor 
inequalities  were  entirely  effaced. 

These  sandy  slopes  and  plains  are  not  perceived  while  crossing 
Chimborazo  by  the  ordinary  route,  or  from  Guaranda,  and  they 
extend  uninterruptedly  from  a little  to  the  west  of  Tortorillas  right 
round  the  western  and  north-western  sides  of  the  mountain,  nearly 
to  Abraspungo.  The  portion  which  at  present  is  called  ‘ The 
Great  Arenal  ’ is,  in  reality,  only  a small  part  of  them.  They 
are  an  important  feature  which  lias  not  hitherto  been  pointed  out, 
produced  by  the  same  cause  as  the  slope  of  ash  on  Cotopaxi  [see 
pp.  146-8],  namely,  by  the  predominance  of  easterly  winds,  which 
scour  the  volcanic  dusts  from  the  eastern  sides  of  the  mountains, 
and  deposit  them  on  the  leeward  or  western  ones  ; and  they  form 
a most  convenient  highway,  although  sterile,  infinitely  more 
agreeable  to  travel  over  than  the  established  route,  through 
Chuquipoquio. 

1 We  scoured  the  surroundings  before  departure,  and  discovered  sixteen  small 
beetles  of  six  species,  three  of  which  ( Benibidium  Andinum,  Bates,  Colpodes  oreas, 
Bates,  and  Erirrhuioides  distinetus,  Olliff)  were  obtained  only  at  this  locality.  The 
others  ( Helicorrhynchux  vulsus,  Olliff,  Naupactus  parvicollis,  Olliff,  and  3 fa  crops 
ceeJorum,  Olliff)  had  previously  been  found  at  similar  altitudes  upon  Pichincha 
and  Cayambe.  Descriptions  of  these  beetles  are  given  in  the  Supplementary 
Appendix. 


CHAP.  XVIII. 


FLORA  OF  CHIMBORAZO. 


333 


The  stream  was  dried  up  in  the  Yallon  de  Carrel,  and  we  con- 
tinued onward  towards  Tortorillas  until  water  was  found,  and 
made  our  Sixth  Camp  (13,353  feet)  some  distance  short  of  the 
tambo,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yallon  de  Debris,  in  a little  nook, 
concealed  from  the  view  of  persons  crossing  the  Great  Arenal. 
The  5th  of  July  was  occupied  in  completing  collections1  and  other 


1 I give  here  a complete  list  of  our  Botanical  gatherings  upon  Chimborazo, 
exclusive  of  species  which  were  obtained  lower  than  14,000  feet. — Lichens.  Par- 
rnelia,  near  centrifuga,  south  side  (14-15,000  feet) ; Umbilicaria  sp.  ? north  - west 
side  (15,800) ; Neuropogon  melaxanthus,  Nyl.,  second  camp  (10,060) ; Alectoria 
divergens,  Ach.,  second  camp  (16,660) ; A.  ochroleuca,  Nyl.,  second  camp  (16,660) ; 
Lecidea  geographica,  Fr.  var.,  second  camp  (16,660);  Stereocaulon  sp.?  second 
camp  (16,660)  ; Oyrophora  or  perhaps  Endocarpon  sp.  ? third  camp  (17,285) ; 
Lecanora  (section  Squamaria),  second  camp  (16,660) ; Lecanora,  section  Placodium, 
second  camp  (16,660)  ; and  L.  subfusca,  L.,  foot  of  the  Southern  Walls  (18,400). 
Mosses.  Andrecea  striata,  Mitt.  ; Brachymenium  fusiferum,  Jaeg.  ; Orimmia  con- 
sobrina,  Kunze  ; O.  apocarpa,  Iledw.  ? ; O.  f usco-lutea,  Hook. ; and  Mielichhoferia 
longiseta,  C.M.,  all  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  second  camp  (16,550-16,750). 
Fern.  Polypodium  pycnolepis,  Kze.,  in  Yallon  de  Carrel  (14,900).  Grasses.  Festuca 
mollis,  Kth.,  east  side,  above  Chuquipoquio  (14,000);  and  Poa  sp.  ? south  side 
(15,000-15,500).  Flowering  plants.  Labiatse : — Stachys  repens,  M.  & G.,  above 
Chuquipoquio  (14,000).  Scrophulariaeese  : — Bartsia  gracilis,  Benth.,  north-east  side 
(13-14,000) ; Calceolaria  rosmarini folia,  Lam.,  above  Chuquipoquio  (14,000) ; Castil- 
leja  fissifolia,  L.,  south  side  (14,000-15,000).  Gentianaceae  : — Oentiana  cerastioides , 
H.B.K.,  north  side  (13,000-14,000);  O.  cernua,  H.  & B.,  south  side  (14,000-16,000); 
O.  rupicola,  H.B.K.,  south  side  (15,500-16,300);  G.  sedifolia,  H.B.K.,  south  side 
(15,500-16.000);  and  Halenia  gracilis,  Griseb.,  north-east  side  (13,000-14,000). 
Ericaceae: — Vaccinium  epacridifoliurn , Benth.,  north  side  (13,000-14,000).  Com- 
positae : — Achyrophorus  Quitensis,  Sz.  Bip.,  south  side  (15,500-16,300);  Baccharis 
(Loricaria)  ferruginea,  Pers.,  Vallon  de  Carrel  (14,000-15,000);  Bidens  humilis, 
H.B.K.,  south  side  (13,000-16,500) ; Chuquiragua  insignis,  H.  & B.,  south  side 
(14,000-15,000);  Culcitium  nivale,  H.B.K.,  near  second  camp  (15,500-16,300); 
C.  reflexum.,  Kth.,  Yallon  de  Carrel  (14,000-15,000)  ; and  Werner ia  sp.  ? 

south  side  (14,000-15,000).  Valerianeae : — P/iyllactis  latifolia,  Spruce,  north  side 

(13,000-14,000)  ; P.  inconspicua , Wedd.  ? second  camp  (16,600)  ; Valeriana  alyssi- 
folia,  Kth.,  Yallon  de  Carrel  (14,000-15,000) ; T'.  microphyllee  aff.,  south  side 
(13,000-14,000);  Valeriana  sp.?  south  side  (15,500-16,500).  Ribesiaceae  : — Pubes 
glandulosum,  R,  & P.,  north-east  side  (14,000).  Leguminosae  : — Astragalus  gemini- 
fiorus,  II.  & B.,  south  side  (14.000-15,000) ; Lupinus  humifusus,  Benth.,  north-east 
side  (13,000-14,000);  Lupinus  sp.  ? (13,000-14,000);  Lupinus  sp.  ? south  side 


334 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap,  xviii. 


matters  which  had  been  cut  short  in  January,  and  in  the  afternoon 
we  transferred  ourselves  to  Camp  7.  On  the  next  day  the  bag- 
gage was  despatched  to  Riobamba  under  the  care  of  Louis  ; whilst 
I with  Jean-Antoine  and  Campafia  resumed  the  measurement  on 
the  High  Road  for  ' a scale  for  Chimborazo  ’ ; carrying  it  up  to  the 
Tambo  of  Chuquipoquio,  and  thus  completing  our  work  amongst 
the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator. 

(14,000-15,000);  and  Vida  setifolia,  II.B.K.,  near  Chuquipoquio  (12,000-14,000). 
Geraniaceae  : — Geranium  diffusum,  Vallon  de  Carrel  (16,000).  Malvaceae  : — 

Malvastrum  phyllanthos,  Asa  Gray,  south  side  (14,000-16,500).  Caryophyllaceae  : — 
Ccraslium  glutinosum,  Kth.,  south  and  north-east  sides  (13,000-14,000)  ; Ceraslium 
sp.  ? south  side  (13,000-14,000);  Slellaria  leptopclala,  Benth.,  near  second  camp 
(15,500-16,000).  Crueiferae  : — Draba  grandiflora,  Hook.  & Am.,  fourth  camp 
(14,360);  D.  obovata,  Benth.,  near  second  camp,  etc.  (15,500-16,660);  Draba  sp.? 
south  side  (14,000-15,000);  Draba  sp.?  near  second  camp  (15,500-16,000).  Ranun- 
culaceae  : — Ranunculus  Drruvianus , Pers.,  north  side  (13,000-14,000)  ; R.  prcemorsus, 
Kth.,  near  second  camp,  etc.  (15,500-16,500). 

Humboldt  says  in  the  pamphlet  entitled  Notice  de  deux  tentatives  d’ascemion 
du  Chimborazo,  dated  Berlin,  Sept.  1836  (pub.  at  Paris  in  1838),  “ Les  derniers 
vegetaux  cryptogames  que  je  recueillis  furent  le  lecidca  atrovirens  ( lichen  geographi- 
cus,  Web.)  et  une  nouvelle  esp^ee  de  gyrophora  d’Acharius  ( ggrophora  rugosa),  a 
peu  pres  a 2820  toises  d’altitude.  La  derniere  mousse,  le  grimmia  longirostris 
croissait  a 400  toises  plus  bas.”  Reckoning  the  toise  at  6-3945  English  feet,  it 
appears  that  his  highest  Lichens  came  from  18,032,  and  the  Moss  from  15,475  feet. 

For  the  Zoological  results,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  Supplementary  Appendix. 
The  last  thing  obtained  on  Chimborazo  (near  Tortorillas)  was  the  Hylodes  with  which 
my  name  is  associated.  This  was  another  of  the  species  that  recurred  at  similar 
altitudes.  It  had  previously  been  captured  upon  Pichincha,  Cotocachi,  and  Altar. 


A PHASMA  FROM  LA  DORMIDA,  CAYAMBE. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

UPON  SOME  RESULTS  OF  THE  JOURNEY. 

In  a very  short  time  it  was  found  that  there  were  things  to  be 
unlearned  as  well  as  discovered  in  Ecuador.  It  had  been  supposed 
that  the  slopes  of  Chimborazo  led  continuously,  without  a break, 
down  to  the  flat  land  bordering  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  [see  p.  12]. 
I saw  that  this  was  not  the  case,  and  that  an  important  range 
of  mountains  intervened  between  it  and  the  Ocean.  Xext  we 
ascertained  that  Chimborazo  streamed  with  glaciers,  although  high 
authorities  state  that  it  has  none  ; and  in  course  of  time  it  became 
apparent  that  the  two  “parallel  Cordilleras,”  which  according  to 
geographers  are  the  great  feature  of  the  country,  do  not  exist. 

The  axis  of  the  Andes  of  Ecuador,  part  of  the  backbone  of 
South  America,  runs  nearly  north  and  south  ; and  towards  the 
western  edge  of  the  main  chain  there  is  a certain  sequence  of  peaks 
more  or  less  in  a line  with  each  other.1  On  the  east  of  these 
summits  there  is  a succession  of  basins,2  of  different  dimensions 

1 See  page  210,  and  my  Route  Map. 

3 See  pages  85-6,  97,  105,  158-9,  167,  265,  etc. 


33G 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


and  at  various  elevations,  and  the  nearest  mountains  on  the  eastern 
side  occur  at  irregular  distances.  There  is  no  such  tiling  as  one 
great  valley  in  the  interior  of  Ecuador.  The  mountains  Pasochoa 
and  Rumifiahui  are  the  only  two  which  lie  parallel  to  the  others 
on  the  western  side.1 

The  main  chain  of  the  Andes  was  created  by  upheaval  at  some 
remote  date,  hut  no  one  can  say  when  this  movement  occurred,  or 
whether  it  was  an  affair  of  a year  or  was  spread  over  thousands  of 
years.  All  of  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator  rise  out  of,  or  upon 
and  above  the  main  chain.2  With  the  exception  of  Sara-urcu, 
they  are  all  mountains  of  volcanic  origin,3  although  they  may 
not  all  have  been  active  volcanoes.  There  will  possibly  be,  for 

a long  time  to  come,  a diversity  of  opinions  as  to  the  manner 
of  their  formation.  It  seems  to  me  probable  that  there  were 
never  many  of  these  volcanoes  in  activity  at  any  one  moment. 
Some  that  are  now  extinct  have  evidently  been  alive ; while 
others,  like  Pichincha  and  Tunguragua,  are  either  dormant  or  are 
not  perpetually  in  eruption.  Cotopaxi  and  Sangai  alone  are  in 
a state  of  constant  activity,  and  these  two  mountains  seem  to 
be  increasing  their  elevation.4 

1 The  Pacific  Range  of  Ecuador  and  the  range  running  south  from  Chimborazo  as 
far  as  tiie  Rio  Chanchan  are,  however,  parallel  to  each  other  ; and  the  course  of  the 
River  Chiinbo,  from  Guaramla  to  Chimbo,  runs  through  a valley,  speaking  properly. 
I have  already  endeavoured  to  make  it  clear  that  this  Pacific  Range  lies  outside 
the  main  chain  of  the  Andes.  It  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  “ two  parallel 
cordilleras.” 

2 The  elevation  of  the  range  in  general,  in  Ecuador,  although  considerable,  is  not 
so  great  as  it  is  farther  to  the  south  ; and  a railway  might  be  carried  there  across  the 
chain  at  a lower  level  than  the  Trans- Andean  line  which  is  at  present  being  con- 
structed to  connect  Buenos  Ayres  with  Valparaiso. 

3 In  Ecuador,  the  rocks  that  were  previously  at  the  surface  are  now  almost 
entirely  buried  under  lavas  or  volcanic-dusts,  which  have  welled  out  of  fissures  or 
have  been  violently  ejected. 

4 The  excellent  observers  M.  de  la  Condamine,  and  the  Doctors  Reiss  & Stiibel 
measured  Cotopaxi  and  Sangai  at  an  interval  of  130  years.  The  former  found  the 
height  of  Cotopaxi  was  18,865  feet,  and  Sangai  17,139  feet.  The  latter  found  the 
heights  were  19,498  and  17,464  feet  respectively. 


chap.  xix.  CONFIGURATION  OF  THE  ANDES  OF  ECUADOR.  337 


Of  the  extinct  Volcanoes,  Cayambe,  Antisana  and  Chimborazo 
are  the  most  important.  There  are  lava-streams  upon  the  flanks 
of  all  three  mountains,1  and  I cannot  doubt  that  they  had  craters 
of  considerable  size,  though  none  can  now  be  seen.  The  space  at 
the  summit  of  Antisana  is  sufficiently  large  to  admit  of  one  as 
great  as  that  of  Cotopaxi,  and  I think  it  may  be  assumed  that 
under  the  snowy' domes  which  now  form  the  summits  of  Chim- 
borazo there  are  rocky  peaks  which  were  formerly  two  of  the 
highest  points  around  the  rim  of  a crater. 

There  are  no  records  of  eruptions  of  Chimborazo.2  It  must 
have  been  an  extinct  volcano  for  many  ages.  The  complete  burial 
of  its  crater,  the  thickness  of  the  ice-cap  at  its  summit  and  large 
size  of  its  glaciers,  the  ruin  and  erosion  of  its  lava-streams,  and  the 
height  vegetation  has  attained  upon  its  flanks  are  all  indications 
that  its  activity  ceased  at  a remote  period.  It  is  less  regularly 
conical  than  Cotopaxi,  Sangai  or  Tunguragua,  and  towards  its 
summits  has  sheer  cliffs,3  that  I have  termed  the  Northern  and 
Southern  Walls,  which  it  seems  to  me  can  only  have  been  formed 
either  by  violent  upheaval  or  by  explosive  blowing  away  of  por- 
tions of  the  exterior  of  the  cone.  The  Southern  Walls  are  shewn 
in  the  illustrations  facing  pages  24,  64  and  76,  and,  more  in  detail, 
in  the  accompanying  plate.  They  are  in  two  series,  B,  B,  and  D,  D. 


1  In  the  matter  of  lava-streams  I differ  from  Boussingault,  who  says  that  none 
can  be  seen  anywhere  among  the  Volcanoes  of  Tropical  America.  “La  masse  du 
Chimborazo  est  formee  par  l’accumulation  de  ddbris  trachytiques,  amoneeles  sans 
aucun  ordre.  Ces  fragmens  trachytiques,  d’un  volume  souvent  enorme,  ont  ete 
soulev6s  a l’dtat  solide  ; leurs  angles  sont  toujours  tranchans ; rien  n’indique  qu’il  y 
ait  en  fusion  ou  meme  un  simple  etat  de  mollesse.  Nulle  part,  dans  aucune  des 
volcans  de  Viquateur,  on  n'obscrve  rien  qui  puisse  faire  presumer  une  coulee  de  laves." 
— Annales  de  Chimie  et  de  Physique,  tome  lviii,  2me  serie,  p.  175,  Paris,  1835. 

1 find  this  difficult  to  comprehend,  as  Boussingault  visited  Cotopaxi  and  the 
Hacienda  of  Antisana.  See  pages  138,  145,  187  and  189. 

2 “ Chimborazo,  Volcau  (on  ignore  l’dpoque  de  son  eruption).” — La  Condamine 
in  Hist,  de  VAcad.  Royale  des  Sciences  (aunee  1746),  Paris,  1751,  pp.  650-1. 

3 There  is  some  equally  sheer  cliff  on  the  northern  side  of  Cotopaxi,  near  the 
summit. 

2 x 


338 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


The  latter  stand  in  advance  of  the  higher  ones,  and  are  passable 
at  F (‘  the  breach  '),  or  may  be  skirted  at  the  base.  The  upper 
cliffs  B,  B are  unapproachable,  on  account  of  being  crowned  by 
glacier,  which  falls  at  iutervals  in  tremendous  avalanches,  shaving 
the  face  of  the  rock.  This  ice- section  (E,  E),  at  the  top  of  the 
cliffs,  shews  the  thickness  of  the  glacier  on  the  summit  of 
Chimborazo. 

The  faces  of  these  precipices  exhibit  a large  number  of  parallel 
bands  (nearly  horizontal  in  the  lower  series  and  distorted  in  the 
upper  one)  which  are  highly  coloured,  and  upon  the  rare  occasions 
that  the  cliffs  are  lighted  by  the  sun  they  present  a gay  and 
attractive  appearance.  The  highest  strata  of  the  upper  series  are 
black,1  alternating  with  grey  bands  ; warm  grey,  passing  into  strong 
red  ; black,  changing  into  thin  grey  and  yellow  strata  ; warm  grey 
again,  passing  into  deep  red ; and,  at  the  base,  warm  grey,  alternat- 
ing with  thin  strata  of  many  colours,  too  numerous  to  recapitulate. 
The  lower  series  commences  at  the  top  with  a stratum  of  reddish- 
grey  colour  for  about  half  the  whole  depth  of  the  cliff  ; then  a 
stratum  of  ashy  grey,  followed  by  a strong  black  band  ; indian  red, 
succeeded  by  more  black  strata  ; and  terminating  at  the  base  with 
a bed  about  200  feet  thick,  of  strongly  reddish  hue. 

With  the  exception  of  the  lowest  rocks  of  the  lower  series,  it  is 
impossible  to  collect  examples  of  these  strata  in  situ,  as  the  cliffs 
are  well-nigh  vertical  ; but  specimens  from  all  of  the  beds  in  the 
upper  series  (knocked  off  by  the  descent  of  the  ice-avalanches)  can 
be  obtained  on  the  surface  of  the  Glacier  de  Debris,  and  they  are 
found  to  be  entirely  volcanic  products — principally  andesitic  lavas.2 
The  colouring  is  superficial,  the  result  of  weathering,  or  decom- 
position. The  natural  colours  of  these  rocks  range  from  steel  and 
iron-greys  to  purplish-black. 

A great  section  of  a somewhat  similar  nature  was  produced  on 

1 It  is  not  unlikely  that  this  is  the  rock  we  obtained  at  19,400  feet  upon  the 
first  ascent.  See  pp.  67-8. 

2 Amongst  these  fragments  on  the  glacier  I found  native  sulphur. 


CHAP.  XIX. 


POSITIONS  OF  THE  GREAT  ANDES. 


339 


the  Island  of  Krakatoa  by  the  blowing  away  of  a portion  of  the 
cone  during  the  convulsions  which  occurred  in  August,  1883  ; 1 and 
although  it  cannot  be  positively  affirmed  that  the  Southern  Walls  of 
Chimborazo  have  been  fashioned  in  this  way,  one  may  go  so  far  as  to 
suggest  that  that  which  is  known  to  have  happened  in  the  Straits 
of  Sunda  may  also  have  occurred  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific. 

The  relative  situations  of  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator  will 
be  seen  by  reference  to  the  Koute  Map,  where,  for  the  first  time, 
they  are  placed  in  the  positions  that  they  actually  occupy.  The 
Altitudes  which  were  determined  on  my  journey  are  arranged 
in  a tabular  form  in  Appendix  A,  in  chronological  order.  The 
height  of  Chimborazo  will  probably  possess  more  interest  than 
any  other  for  the  majority  of  my  readers.  I give  below  the  data 
which  have  been  used  in  its  computation,  and  a few  remarks  upon 
the  previous  determinations  of  its  altitude  by  others.  My  original 
readings  are  given  here  ( not  reduced  to  32°  Faht.),  and  they  were 
not  taken  until  the  attached  thermometer  had  fallen  to  the  tem- 
perature of  the  air.  The  Guayaquil  barometer,  it  should  be  added, 
was  30  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


Date.  Place. 

Jan.  4,  1880,  5.15  p.m.  Summit  of  Chimborazo 

Barometer,  “gin 

No.  558  14-100 

Temp,  of  air 
and  att.  therm. 
21°  Faht. 

„ 

6 p.m.  Guayaquil 

No.  554 

29-892 

85°  „ 

Deduced  altitude  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 

20,545  feet. 

July  3,  ,, 

1.40  p.m.  Summit  of  Chimborazo 

No.  558 

14-050 

20°  ,, 

,, 

2 p.m.  Summit  of  Chimborazo  . 

No.  558 

14-028 

15°  „ 

>> 

Mean  of  11a.m.  & 6 p.m.  Guayaquil 

No.  554 

30-021 

75°  „ 

Deduced  altitude  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  20,461  feet. 

Besides  these  two  results  (20,545  feet  from  the  observations 
made  on  Jan.  4,  and  20,461  feet  from  the  2 p.m.  observations 
on  July  3),  Mr.  Ellis  has  obtained  a third  one  (20,489  feet)  by 

1 A representation  of  this  forms  Plate  25  of  the  Album  accompanying  the 
interesting  work  Krakatau,  by  R.  D.  M.  Verbeek,  Brussels,  1885-6;  and  it  has  been 
reproduced  in  the  Report  of  the  Krakatoa  Committee  of  the  Royal  Society,  Lond. 
1888,  PI.  II. 


340 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


employing  the  mean  of  the  observations  at  1.40  and  2 p.m. 
The  altitude  I adopt  is  the  mean  of  his  three  results, 
namely  20,498  feet. 

The  height,  however,  which  at  the  present  time  is 
accepted  and  quoted  for  Chimborazo  is  21,425  feet.  This 
altitude  was  deduced  by  J.  Oltmanns  (Professor  of  Astro- 
nomy at  Berlin)  from  the  observations  of  Alex,  von 
Humboldt,  who,  after  determining  barometrically  the  ele- 
vation of  Riobamba  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  measured 
a base  1702  metres  long  upon  the  outskirts  of  the  town, 
and  at  one  end  of  this  base  observed  the  angle  of  eleva- 
tion of  the  apparent  summit  of  the  mountain.  This 
measurement  is  referred  to  in  Humboldt’s  Recueil  iV Obser- 
vations Astronomiques,  etc.,  4to,  Paris,  1810,  vol.  1,  pp. 
lxxii-lxxiv  of  the  Introduction,  and  the  annexed  diagram 
is  projected  from  the  data  given  in  that  work.1  The 
line  drawn  from  A to  B represents  his  base,  and  a the 
position  of  the  summit  of  Chimborazo.  This  figure  shews 
more  clearly  than  words  the  unsatisfactory  nature  of  the 
data  from  which  Prof.  Oltmanns  calculated  the  altitude. 

Humboldt  himself  appeared  to  think  it  likely  that 
there  was  some  error  in  his  observations ; and  he  did 
so,  doubtless,  on  account  of  the  large  difference  that  there 
was  between  the  altitude  which  was  deduced  from  his 
work  and  that  which  was  obtained  by  La  Condamine,  who 
employed  similar  methods.  The  height  of  Chimborazo  as 
determined  by  La  Condamine  was  3220  toises  (=  20,592 
feet).  Juan  and  Ulloa  (the  Spanish  officers  who  were 
associated  with  the  French  Academicians)  in  their  book 
entitled  Observaciones  Astronomical  y Phisicas  liechas  de 
orden  de  S.  May.  en  los  Reynas  del  Peru,  4to,  Madrid, 


1 The  length  of  the  base  A B is  stated  to  have  been  1702’49  metres ; 
the  angle  A B a,  98°  34'  50"  ; the  angle  a A B,  78°  16'  20"  ; and  the  angle 
of  elevation  of  the  summit,  seen  from  A,  6°  41'  26".  This  figure  should  be 
compared  with  fig.  6,  Plate  1,  in  the  Recueil  d' Observations  Astronomiques. 


CHAP.  XIX. 


HUMBOLDT'S  TRIANGLE. 


341 


1748,  p.  131,  give  3380  toises  (=  21,615  feet)  as  the  height  of 
Chimborazo.  The  French  and  Spanish  observers,  I believe,  used 
the  same  data,  and  it  is  certain  that  either  one  or  the  other,  or 
both,  must  have  been  in  error  in  their  calculations.1 

The  passage  is  given  in  the  footnote  in  which  Humboldt 
expresses  a certain  amount  of  doubt  as  to  his  own  result.2  In 
the  various  possible  causes  of  error  which  he  therein  mentions, 
he  omits  to  take  into  account : — 1.  The  chance  of  error  in  the 
height  of  his  base  at  Riobamba,  and,  2.  that  neither  the  height 
nor  the  distance  of  a snowy  dome  can  be  determined  with 
certainty  unless  a signal  is  placed  upon  it.  The  elevation  he 
assigned  to  Riobamba  was  9485  feet,  which  is  305  feet  higher 
than  the  determination  of  Messrs.  Reiss  and  Stiibel,  and  446 
feet  higher  than  my  own.3  It  seems  to  me  possible  that  there 

1 Although  the  height  of  Chimborazo  deduced  by  Ulloa  more  nearly  corresponded 
than  La  Condamine’s  with  that  obtained  by  Humboldt,  the  latter  did  not  seem  to 
put  much  confidence  in  it;  for  towards  the  end  of  his  Recueil  (V  Observations  Astro- 
nomiques  (at  p.  93  of  the  section  entitled  “ Nivellement  barornetrique)  there  is  the 
following  amusing  passage.  “ Lorsqu’  Ulloa  descendit  dans  les  mines  de  Guanaxuato, 
il  deduisit  d’une  mesure  barornetrique,  que  la  mine  de  Valenciaua  avoit  une  pro- 
fondeur  de  1000  vares  (838  metres).  L'inspecteur  de  la  mine  assura,  et  avec  raison, 
que  cette  evaluation  etoit  du  double  trop  forte  ; le  g^ometre  pretendit,  de  son  cotti, 
que  son  caleul  barornetrique  ne  laissoit  pas  de  doute.  II  est  probable  que  le  baro- 
metre  du  savaut  voyageur  s’<5toit  derange  . . . On  conyoit  aisement  que,  depuis  cette 
epoque,  les  barometres  ne  jouissent  pas  d’un  grand  credit  aupres  du  mineurs  du 
Mexique.” 

a “ Je  n’ai  pu,  jusqu’a  ce  jour  (1810),  decouvrir  aucune  cause  d'erreur  dans 
ma  mesure  du  Chimborazo.  Pour  expliquer  une  difference  de  100  toises  de  hauteur, 
il  faudroit  supposer  ou  que  les  angles  des  stations  avec  la  cime  a B A et  a A B fussent 
faux  de  10'-9,  ou  qu’on  se  fut  trompe  dans  la  mesure  de  la  base  de  91  metres,  ou  que 
Tangle  de  hauteur  pris  en  A fut  trop  grand  de  21'  58".  . . Je  desire  ardemment 
que,  dans  un  pays  ou  les  lumieres  font  des  progres  si  rapides,  des  hommes  instruits 
repetent  mes  operations  sur  le  plateau  de  Tapia,  pour  qu'il  ne  reste  aucun  doute 
sur  la  veritable  hauteur  de  la  cime  la  plus  elevee  des  Cordilleres.” — Recueil  (V  Obs. 
Astron.,  vol.  1,  p.  lxxiv,  Introd. 

3 The  Ecuadorian  altitudes  which  were  deduced  from  the  barometric  observations 
of  Humboldt  are  almost  always  higher  (sometimes  considerably  higher)  than  those  ob- 
tained from  the  barometric  observations  by  Messrs.  Reiss  and  Stiibel,  and  by  myself. 


342 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xrx. 


was  a considerable  initial  error  in  the  determination  of  the  height 
of  his  base  ; and  from  simple  inspection  of  the  figure  upon  p.  340 
it  will  be  apparent  that  a very  slight  mistake  in  the  identification 
of  the  true  summit,  at  either  of  his  stations  A,  B,  would  have 
produced  a marked  effect  upon  the  distance  of  a from  A B,  and 
a serious  error  in  the  deduced  value  of  the  angle  of  elevation, 
which  was  calculated  from  the  distance. 

Humboldt’s  wish  that  his  observations  might  be  repeated  has 
been  fulfilled  by  his  countrymen  Messrs.  Reiss  and  Stubel.  In 
their  Alturas,  which  were  printed  at  Quito  in  1873,  the  height 
of  Chimborazo  is  stated  to  be  (according  to  Dr.  Reiss)  20,703 
feet.  Bv  a private  communication  I know  that  these  travellers 
adopted  for  this  measurement  similar  methods  to  those  which 
were  employed  by  La  Condamine  and  Humboldt. 

There  are  therefore  five  different  determinations  of  the  height 
of  Chimborazo,  namely : — 


La  Condamine 
Juan  and  Ulloa 
Humboldt  . 

Reiss  and  Stubel  . 
Whvmper 


20,592  feet. 
21,615  .. 
21,425  ,. 
20,703  .. 
20,498  „ 


The  first  four  of  these  were  obtained  by  similar  methods, 
and  the  fifth  is  derived  from  three  observations  of  the  mercurial 
barometer  itpon  the  summit  of  the  mountain. 


The  order  in  which  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator  should 
be  placed  (so  far  as  I am  acquainted  with  them)  will  be  seen  in 
the  accompanying  table.  Several  others,  which  are  not  included, 
should  perhaps  come  before  Pichincha.  There  was  no  opportunity 
of  measuring  the  mountains  of  Llanganati  [see  pp.  97,  110],  or  the 
highest  points  in  the  range  to  the  south  of  Chimborazo.  Some 
of  the  loftiest  peaks  in  the  former  group  seemed  to  me  to  rise 
well  above  16,000  feet,  and  the  latter  were  not  much  inferior  in 
elevation,  although  destitute  of  snow. 


CHAP.  XIX. 


RANK  OF  THE  GREAT  ANDES. 


343 


Name  of  Mountain. 

Academicians. 

Reiss  & Stubel. 

Whymper. 

Toises. 

Feet. 

Metres. 

Feet. 

Metres. 

Feet. 

1. 

Chimborazo  . 

3220 

20,592 

6310 

20,703 

6247 

20.498 

2. 

Cotopaxi 

2950 

18,865 

5943 

19,498 

5978 

19,613 

3. 

Antisana 

3020 

19,313 

5756 

18,885 

5893 

19,335 

4. 

Cavambe 

3030 

19,377 

5840 

19,161 

5848 

19.186 

5. 

Altar  . 

2730 

17,458 

5404 

17,730 

6. 

Sangai 

2680 

17,139 

5323 

17,464 

7. 

Illiniza 

2717 

17,375 

5305 

17,405 

8. 

Tunguragua . 

2620 

16,755 

5087 

16,690 

9. 

Carihuairazo 

2450 

15,668 

5106 

16,752 

5034 

16,515* 

10. 

Sincholagua  . 

2570 

16,435 

4988 

16,365 

11. 

Cotocachi 

2570 

16,435 

4966 

16,293 

4968 

16,301 

12. 

Guagua-Pichincha  . 

4787 

15,706 

4851 

15,918 

Rucu-Pichincha 

2430 

15,540 

4737 

15,542 

13. 

Corazon 

2470 

15,796 

4816 

15,801 

4838 

15,871 

14. 

Ruminahui  . 

4757 

15,607 

15. 

Sara-urcu 

4800 

15,749 

4725 

15,502 

1 Height  of  the  middle  peak  of  Carihuairazo. 

The  determinations  of  the  Academicians  are  quoted  from  Histoire  de  VAcademie  JRoyale  des 
Sciences  (annee  1746),  Paris,  1751,  pp.  650-651  ; and  those  of  Messrs.  Reiss  and  Stubel  are  taken  from 
their  Alturas  tomadas  en  la  Republica  del  Ecuador,  Quito,  1873. 


The  heights  that  are  quoted  for  these  mountains,  as  well  as  the 
other  altitudes  which  are  given  in  Appendix  A,  depend  exclusively 
upon  observations  of  Mercurial  Barometers.  The  two  ‘ Fortin’s  ’ 
which  were  used  in  the  interior  [see  p.  33]  were  preserved  intact 
to  the  end  of  the  journey.  The  precautions  that  were  taken  to 
ensure  their  safety  which  have  been  mentioned  upon  pp.  54-5 
would  have  been  of  little  avail  if  they  had  not  been  supplemented 
by  unceasing  care  on  the  part  of  Jean  - Antoine  Carrel,  who  took 
charge  of  them  during  the  whole  of  the  time  we  were  amongst  the 
mountains.  When  travelling  over  roads,  or  lower  slopes  where 
porterage  could  be  obtained,  he  carried  his  ‘ babies  ’ and  nothing 
besides.  Above  the  snow-line  he  was  always  encumbered  with 
one,  and  sometimes  with  both  of  them,  in  addition  to  the  matters 
which  it  was  his  proper  business  to  transport ; and  the  fact  that 


344 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


lie  was  always  laden  with  12£ 


JEAN -ANTOINE  AND  THE  BABIES. 


or  25  lbs.  additional  weight  must 
be  taken  into  account  if  com- 
parisons are  instituted  with  his 
rates.  The  conservation  of  these 
instruments  occupied  the  first 
place  in  the  thoughts  of  every 
one  during  the  whole  of  the  time 
we  were  in  the  interior,  as  they 
were  the  Standards  upon  which 
everything  depended. 

The  comparisons  of  the  Ane- 
roid Barometers  which  were  made 
against  the  Mercurials  whilst  in  the 
field  are  given  in  Appendix  C ; 
but  the  account  of  the  subsequent 
investigations  into  the  behaviour 
of  Aneroids  in  general  extends  to 
too  great  length  to  be  included  in 
this  volume,  and  is  rendered  in  the 
pamphlet  Hutu  to  use  the  Aneroid 
Barometer d 


1 The  following  is  a recapitulation  of  the  principal  points  which  have  come  out 
in  the  course  of  this  enquiry. 

1.  All  aneroids  lose  upon  the  mercurial  barometer  when  submitted  to  diminished 
pressure.  When  diminished  pressure  is  maintained  continuously,  the  loss  commonly 
continues  to  augment  during  several  weeks,  and  sometimes  grows  to  a very  import- 
ant amount.  The  most  important  part  of  any  loss  that  will  occur  will  take  place 
in  the  first  week.  The  loss  which  takes  place  in  the  first  week  is  greater  than  in 
any  subsequent  one.  A considerable  part  of  the  loss  which  takes  place  in  the  first 
week  occurs  in  the  first  day.  The  loss  may  be  traced  in  a single  hour,  and  in 
successive  hours  upon  aneroids  with  expanded  scales.  The  amount  of  the  loss 
which  occurs  is  different  in  different  instruments.  The  amount  of  the  loss  in  any 
aneroid  depends  (a)  upon  the  duration  of  time  it  may  experience  diminished  press- 
ure, and  (6)  upon  the  extent  of  the  reduction  in  pressure. 

2.  When  pressure  is  restored,  all  aneroids  recover  a portion  of  the  loss  which  has 
previously  occurred ; and  some,  in  course  of  recovery,  gain  more  than  they  have 


CHAP.  XIX. 


TEMPERATURES  ON  SUMMITS. 


345 


In  Appendix  E,  a few  remarks  are  made  upon  Temperatures  in 
Ecuador,  and  I refer  here  only  to  those  which  were  experienced  on 
Summits.  If  there  had  been  a constant  diminution  of  1°  Faht.  for 
every  300  feet  of  ascent  from  the  level  of  the  sea,  temperatures  at 
the  tops  even  of  the  lowest  of  the  peaks  we  ascended  would  always 


Date. 

Mountain. 

Height  in 
Feet. 

Temperature 
on  Summit. 

Temperature  at 
Guayaquil. 

Jan. 

1880. 

4 (5. 15  p.m.)  . 

Chimborazo 

20,498 

Faht. 

21- 

85° 

Faht. 

( 6 p.m.) 

Feb. 

2(1.15  „ ) . . 

Corazon 

15,871 

37°  -43° 

79° 

(11  a.m.) 

,, 

18  (6.20  a.m.)  . 

Cotopaxi 

19,613 

21° 

82° 

( „ 

) 

Mar. 

10  (10-11.40  a.m.) 

Antisana 

19,335 

1 

o 

o 

80° 

( „ 

) 

23  (11.15  a.m.) 

Pichincha 

15,918 

46° 

80° 

( „ 

) 

April 

4 (10.45  - 11  a.m.) 

Cavambe 

19,186 

32° -41° 

79° 

( „ 

) 

,, 

17  (1.30-2.40  p.m.) 

Sara-urcu 

15,502 

43°  '5  - 55° 

80° 

( „ 

) 

,, 

24  (12  noon) 

Cotocachi 

16,301 

36° 

81° 

( „ 

) 

June  29  (11-11.15  a.m.) 

Carihuairazo 

16,515 

38° -42° 

74° 

( „ 

) 

J uly 

3 (1.40-2  p.m.)  . 

Chimborazo 

20,498 

15°  -20° 

74° 

( „ 

) 

have  been  found  well  below  the  freezing-point.  The  above  Table 
of  Temperatures,  ‘in  the  shade/  shews  those  which  were  actually 
experienced. 


previously  lost.  Minus  index-errors  are  sometimes  lessened,  and  plus  index-errors 
are  sometimes  increased.  The  recovery  is  gradual,  and  commonly  extends  over  a 
greater  length  of  time  than  the  period  during  which  diminished  pressure  has  been 
experienced.  In  aneroids  which  have  been  kept  at  diminished  pressures  for  a con- 
siderable space  of  time  [a  week  or  upwards]  the  most  important  part  of  the  amount 
that  will  be  recovered  will  be  regained  in  the  first  week.  The  greater  part  of  the 
recovery  of  the  first  week  is  usually  accomplished  in  the  first  day.  The  recovery  in 
the  first  hour  is  almost  always  larger  than  that,  in  any  subsequent  hour. 

3.  The  errors  which  will  probably  be  exhibited  by  aneroids  during  natural  varia- 
tions of  pressure  may  be  learned  approximately  by  submitting  them  to  artificially- 
produced  variations  of  pressure ; but  the  one-hour  test  which  has  heretofore  been 
commonly  applied  for  ‘verification’  is  of  little  value  except  for  determining  errors 
of  graduation,  and  the  errors  which  will  be  exhibited  at  similar  pressures  in  a similar 
length  of  time. 

4.  Comparisons  of  travellers’  aneroids  against  the  mercurial  barometer  at  natural 
pressure,  upon  return  to  the  level  of  the  sea,  after  prolonged  journeys  in  elevated 
regions,  have  not  the  value  which  is  at  present  assigned  to  them. 

5.  Large  reductions  will  have  to  be  made  in  the  heights  of  many  positions  which 
have  been  determined  by  aueroids. 

2 Y 


846 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


In  all  cases  they  were  higher  than  might  have  been  expected. 
The  excess  is  most  marked  in  the  three  mountains  which  are 
situated  farthest  to  the  East,  namely,  Sara  - urcu,  Cayambe  and 
Antisana ; and  this,  it  seems  to  me,  can  only  be  accounted  for 
by  supposing  that  the  warm  currents  borne  from  the  heated 
Amazonian  basin,  by  the  nearly  constant  easterly  winds,  are 
deflected  rather  abruptly  upwards  from  their  natural  level,  on 
approaching  these  mountain-barriers. 

Upon  a number  of  occasions,  abrupt  transitions  of  tempera- 
ture occurred  at  our  high  camps,  or  whilst  ascending  still  higher. 
Equally  rapid  changes  are,  however,  unknown  on  the  lower  ground, 
and  it  is  therefore  obvious  that  the  amount  of  ascent  equivalent 
to  a fall  of  1°  Falit.  would  have  been  found  very  variable  if  a 
number  of  simultaneous  observations  of  temperature  had  been  made 
at  spots  no  great  distance  apart,  placed  on  different  levels.1 

The  Snow-line. — Those  who  are  most  conversant  with  snow- 
mountains  generally  speak  with  hesitation  upon  this  subject.  The 
difficulty  consists  in  determining  what  ‘ the  snow-line  ’ really  is, 
or  should  be  considered.  If  it  should  be  the  very  lowest  point  at 
which  any  large  masses  of  snow  are  found  permanently,  many 
mountains  would  have  to  be  classed  as  entering  the  snow  - line 
which  are  not  generally  admitted  to  be  within  it.  The  quantity 

i Thus,  on  July  3,  1880,  at  5 p.m.,  on  the  north-western  side  of  Chimborazo,  at 
an  elevation  of  16,700  feet,  temperature  in  the  shade  was  26° -5  Faht.  At  the  same 
time,  at  Riobamba  (9039  feet)  it  was  50°  Faht.  This  gives  a fall  of  1°  Faht.  for 
every  326  feet  of  elevation. 

On  July  3,  1880,  at  2 p.m.,  on  the  Summit  of  Chimborazo  (20,498  feet),  tempera- 
ture was  15°  Faht.  On  the  same  day,  at  2.30  p.m.,  at  Riobamba,  it  was  54°'72  Faht. 
(11°  R.).  This  gives  a fall  of  1°  Faht.  for  every  2S8  feet. 

On  this  day  (July  3,  1880),  upon  leaving  camp  (15,811  feet),  at  5.15  a.m.,  tem- 
perature was  30°  Faht.  By  8.45  a.m.  (at  18,900  feet),  temperature  in  the  shade 
had  risen  to  46°  Faht.  The  sun  had  not  at  that  time  struck  the  western  side  of  the 
mountain.  Two  hours  later,  when  in  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  the  heat  felt  oppress- 
ive ; and  in  another  two  hours  there  was  a fall  of  at  least  35°  Faht,  (from  50°  to  15°). 
This  abrupt  drop  was  caused  by  the  clouds  of  Voleauie  Dust  intercepting  the  rays 
of,  and  absorbing  the  heat  radiated  from  the  sun ! 


CIIAP.  XIX. 


THE  SNOW- LINE. 


347 


that  should  be  found  permanently  upon  any  mountain  to  entitle 
it  to  be  considered  within  the  snow  - line  cannot  be  determined, 
and  I see  little  utility  in  retaining  a phrase  which  is  incapable  of 
definition,  and  is  interpreted  so  variously.  The  following  informa- 
tion is  given  from  personal  observation. 

Range  south  of  Chimborazo  (15-16,000  feet).  No  permanent  snow. 

Chimborazo  (20,498  feet).  In  January,  little  snow  below  16,600  feet 
on  the  south  side,  but  at  that  time  it  extended  nearly  one  thousand  feet 
lower  on  the  E.  and  N.  sides.  In  June -July  there  was  deep  snow  as  low 
as  15.600  feet  on  all  these  sides.  At  the  same  time,  there  was  little  snow 
below  16,700  feet  upon  the  W.  side. 

Carihuairazo  (16,515  feet).  Very  little  snow  below  15,000  feet  in 
January,  and  much  in  June -July  as  low  as  14,300  feet. 

Corazox  (15,871  feet).  Much  snow  fell  almost  daily  upon  this  mount- 
ain down  to  14,500  feet,  but  there  were  no  permanent  snow -beds  on  the  E. 
side,  although  there  were  some  upon  the  W.  side. 

Atacatzo  (14,892  feet).  No  permanent  snow. 

Pichixcha  (15,918  feet).  The  snow-beds  were  quite  trifling  in  extent. 

Cotocachi  (16,301  feet).  Permanent  snow,  in  large  beds,  as  low  as 
14,500  feet. 

Imbabura  (15,033  feet).  No  permanent  snow. 

Cayambe  (19,186  feet).  Scarcely  any  snow  below  16,000  feet  on  the 
west  side.  Covered  with  snow  at  15,000  feet  on  the  eastern  side. 

Sara-urcu  (15,502  feet).  Snow  fell  daily  upon  this  mountain  lower 
than  14,000  feet,  and  was  remaining  permanently  at  about  that  elevation. 

Antisaxa  (19,335  feet).  Permanently  covered  with  snow  at  16,000 
feet  on  the  western  side.  I am  not  able  to  speak  about  the  eastern  side. 

Sincholagua  (16,365  feet).  Large  beds  of  permanent  snow  as  low  as 
15,300  feet. 

Ruminahui  (15,607  feet).  There  was  a small  amount  of  permanent 
snow  on  the  E.,  and  none  on  the  W.  side. 

Cotopaxi  (19,613  feet).  Snow  fell  frequently  on  Cotopaxi  in  February 
quite  one  thousand  feet  lower  than  it  fell  upon  Chimborazo  in  January.  It 
was  remaining  permanently  on  the  western  side  at  about  15,500  feet. 

Llangaxati  group.  Much  snow  below  16,000  feet. 

Altar  (17,730  feet).  Many  large  snow-beds  below  14,000  feet. 

From  examination  of  the  above  list,  it  will  be  seen  that  snow 
is  in  greater  abundance  upon  the  more  easterly  of  the  Great  Andes 


348 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


of  the  Equator  than  upon  the  western  ones ; and  is  commonly 
found  at  lower  levels  upon  the  eastern  than  upon  the  western 
sides  of  the  same  mountains. 

Previous  travellers  have  said  little  or  nothing  about  the 
Glaciers  of  Ecuador,  — in  some  cases,  it  may  be,  because  they 
were  unable  to  recognize  glaciers  when  they  saw  them ; or,  in 
others,  through  not  actually  having  seen  any,  owing  to  the  preva- 
lence of  bad  weather.  Humboldt,  in  the  passage  that  is  given 
in  the  foot-note,1  says  that  he  did  not  see  in  the  Tropics  anything 
resembling  the  Glaciers  of  Switzerland  ; and  Boussingault  states 
that  the  only  glacier  he  saw  in  Tropical  America  ivas  upon  the 
mountain  Tunguragua.  I have  been  somewhat  exercised  to 
account  for  these  statements  ; and,  from  certain  points  of  view, 
I still  find  them  quite  incomprehensible.2 

Glaciers  of  large  dimensions  exist  upon  the  Andes  of  the 

i “ Je  n’ai  rien  vu  sous  les  tropiques,  ni  a Quito,  ui  au  Mexique,  qui  ressemble 
aux  glaciers  de  la  Suisse.  J’avais  pensd  1°  (pie  des  causes  meteorologiques  s’oppo- 
saient  au  changement  des  neves  ou  glaciers  par  l’absorption  de  1’eau  qui  penetre  et. 
cimente  les  grains  incoherents  de  gresil  et  les  cristaux  de  neige  ; 2°  que  les  coulees  de 
neige,  source  primitive  de  tout  glacier,  n’avaient  pas  lieu,  lors  meme  que  la  forme  et 
la  pente  des  vallees  pouvaient  favoriser  leur  desceute,  a cause  du  manque  de  volume 
et  de  poids  de  la  neige  surincombante.  * * * M.  Boussingault,  que  j’ai  consulte 
sur  l’existence  des  petits  amas  de  neige  et  de  gresil  que  les  Indiens  de  Calpi  m’avaient 
dit  se  trouver  couverts  de  sables,  bien  au-dessous  de  la  limite  aetuelle  des  neiges  du 
Chimborazo,  m’ecrit:  ‘Je  ne  sais  rien  des  neiges  souterraines  du  Chimborazo,  et  je 
doute  fort  de  leur  existence  ; mais  au  volcan  de  Tungurahua,  nous  avons  rencontrd, 
le  colonel  Hall  et  moi,  a la  hauteur  de  la  ville  de  Quito  (done  a peu  pres  a 1500  toises 
de  hauteur  absolue)  une  masse  dnorme  de  neige  endurcie,  un  veritable  glacier  eomme 
ceux  de  la  Suisse.  C’est  le  seul  glacier  que  j'aie  vu  en  Amerique  entre  les  tro- 
piques.’ — Asie  Cenlralc,  par  A.  de  Humboldt,  vol.  ili.  pp.  264-260. 

The  above  passage  quoted  from  Asie  Centrale  (published  in  1843)  does  not  appear 
to  harmonise  with  the  following  extract  quoted  from  an  article  contributed  by  Bous- 
singault to  the  Annalcs  de  Chimie  et  de  Phgsique,  published  in  1835.  “Je  voulais 
contempler  a mon  aise,  rassasier  pour  ainsi  dire  ma  vue  de  ees  glaciers  majestueux 
qui  m'avaient  procure  si  souvent-  les  Emotions  de  la  science,  et  auxquels  je  devais 
bientot  dire  un  dternel  adieu”  (p.  151).  Boussingault  makes  frequent  reference  to 
the  glaciers  in  subsequent  pages  of  the  same  article. 

3 See  pp.  24,  32,  and  77. 


CHAP.  XIX. 


THE  GLACIERS  OF  ECUADOR. 


349 


Equator.  They  attain  tlieir  greatest  size  upon  Antisana,  Cayambe, 
and  Chimborazo,  and  there  are  considerable  ones  upon  Altar, 
Carihuairazo,  Cotocachi,  Illiniza,  Sara-urcu,  and  Sincholagua.1  The 
glaciers  upon  Antisana  were  thicker  and  the  crevasses  in  them 
were  larger  than  any  we  saw  elsewhere.  Upon  Cayambe  I counted 
twelve,2  flowing  from  the  central  reservoir,  all  of  which,  according 
to  the  prevailing  custom,  might  have  had  names  bestowed  upon 
them  ; and  when  making  the  circuit  of  Chimborazo  in  June-July, 
1880,  I noted  the  bearings  of  and  named  eleven  which  were  entitled 
to  be  distinguished.3  The  one  marked  A is  called  Abraspungo ; 
the  next  is  dedicated  to  Mr.  R.  Spruce,  whose  admirable  work  in 
Ecuador  (which,  unfortunately,  has  permanently  disabled  him)  has 
been  very  inadequately  recognized ; and  the  two  following  are 
named  after  the  Doctors  Reiss  and  Stubel.  These  are  succeeded 
by  the  Glacier  de  Thielmann  and  the  Glacier  de  Debris.  The  next 
one  (G),  named  Tortorillas,  is  rather  ill-defined  ; H and  I are  the 
Glaciers  of  Humboldt  and  Boussingault,  and  the  most  eastern  one 
is  consecrated  to  the  assassinated  President,  Garcia  Moreno. 

In  essential  features  the  Glaciers  of  Ecuador  do  not  differ  from 
the  Glaciers  of  the  Alps,  and  in  minor  points  they  present  little 
novelty.  One  has  been  noticed  upon  p.  198.  Another  was  seen 
in  the  middle  of  the  Glacier  de  Debris,  namely,  a moulin 4 in  which 
the  water  flowed  upwards  instead  of  downwards  ; and  not  far  from 
this  I came  upon  a ‘ glacier-table,’  a slab  of  rock  three  or  four  feet 
in  diameter,  which  had  attained  an  unusual  height  upon  a slender 

1 There  is  also  some  very  obscured  glacier  upon  Cotopaxi.  My  glimpses  of 
Quilindana  and  Tunguragua  were  too  slight  to  permit  me  to  speak  with  certainty, 
but  I believe  that  there  are  also  glaciers  upon  those  mountains. 

2 There  are  no  doubt  others  upon  Cayambe.  I did  not  see  its  north  and  north- 
east sides. 

3 Of  the  northern  side,  through  constant  prevalence  of  bad  weather,  a clear  view 
was  not  obtained. 

4 “ Moulins  are  formed  by  deep  cracks  ” (crevasses)  “ intersecting  glacier  rivulets. 
The  water  in  descending  such  cracks  scoops  out  for  itself  a shaft,  sometimes  many 
feet  wide,  and  some  hundreds  of  feet  deep,  into  which  the  cataract  plunges.” — 
Tyndall’s  Glaciers  of  the  Alps , 8vo,  London,  1860,  p.  424. 


350 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  ciiap.  xix. 


stem  of  ice,  and  then,  instead  of  slipping  off  as  is  ordinarily  the 
case,  had  gradually  declined  towards  the  west,  bending  the  shaft 
which  had  formerly  supported  it  into  the  form  of  a reversed  q. 
The  rock  was  touching  the  surface  of  the  glacier,  still  adhering  to 
the  ice-pedestal  ; and  this,  although  it  had  undergone  crushing  on 
the  inner  curve  and  tension  on  the  outer  side,  shewed  no  signs  of 
fracture. 

BOTANY.  — The  collections  which  -were  formed  were  undertaken 
with  the  view  of  contributing  to  the  knowledge  of  the  Range  in  Alti- 
tude of  species,  and  the  remarks  which  follow  have  solely  reference 
to  the  extreme  upper  range  of  species  in  Equatorial  South  America. 

Examples  of  twenty  Botanical  Orders  were  obtained  at  15,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  and  upwards,  and  twelve  of  these 
touched  or  exceeded  the  height  of  16,000  feet.  In  the  Tables 
upon  pp.  352,  353  the  altitudes  are  given,  and  the  names  of  the 
species  so  far  as  they  have  been  identified,  of  the  representatives 
which  attained  the  very  greatest  heights.  These  Tables,  and  the 
Zoological  ones  which  follow,  include  only  such  species  as  were 
actually  collected. 

Species  of  fifteen  genera  of  Lichens  were  collected  in  the 
interior  of  Ecuador,1  out  of  which  eight  (those  marked  by  asterisks 
in  the  footnote)  were  obtained  at  15,000  feet  or  higher  : examples 
of  twenty-six  genera  of  Mosses  were  collected,3  twelve  of  which 
Avere  found  at  15,000  feet  and  upwards  : while  out  of  fifty-eight 
genera  of  Flowering  Plants  (collected  exclusively  in  the  interior), 
fifty -nine  species  came  from  14,000  feet  or  higher,  and  of  these 
thirty  - five  species  reached  or  surpassed  15,000  feet,  and  twenty 

1 * Alectoria,  Bmomyccs,  Cladonia,  * Gyrophora,  * Lecanora,  * Lecidca,  Leptogium, 
* Neuropogon , * Parmelia,  Physcia,  Ramahna,  * Stereocaulon,  Sticta,  * Umbdicaria, 
and  Usnea. 

2 * Andreeea , Aneura,  * Bartramia,  * Brachymenium,  * Brentelia,  * Crypto- 
podium, Dallonia,  Dicranum,  * Didymodon,  * Grimmia,  Hypnum,  Lejeunia, 
JIacroniitium,  Metzgeria,  * Mielichhoferia,  ATnium,  Neckera,  * Orthotrichum,  Plagio- 
chila,  Porotrichum,  * Racomitrium,  Rhizogonium,  Sematophylluin,  * Splachnohryurn, 
Thuidium,  and  * Webern. 


ciiap.  xix. 


THE  HIGHEST  PLANTS. 


351 


species  16,000  feet,  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Including  all 
Orders,  forty-two  species  were  taken  at  16,000  feet  or  higher,1  and 
almost  all  of  these  came  either  from  Antisana  or  Chimborazo,2 
principally  from  the  latter  mountain,  which  even  at  the  height 
of  17,000  feet  has  a large  amount  of  soil  free  from  snow. 

One  looks  vainly  amongst  this  flora  for  the  brilliant  clusters  of 
gem-like  flowers  which  are  so  conspicuous  near  the  snow-line  of 
the  Alps.  Yellows  predominate  in  it,  and  they,  like  the  other  hues, 
are  wanting  in  purity.  The  highest  species,  with  few  exceptions, 
were  also  found  at  considerably  lower  levels  ; and  the  plants  which 
were  taken  at  the  greatest  altitudes  were  generally  solitary  indi- 
viduals, separated  by  long  distances  from  their  nearest  relatives. 

ZOOLOGY.  — The  Zoological  collections  also  which  were  made 
in  Ecuador  were  formed  with  the  view  of  bringing  together  the 
species  which  range  highest ; but  they  were  not  so  strictly  limited 
as  the  Botanical  ones,  and,  if  time  and  opportunity  had  permitted, 
I should  have  endeavoured  to  have  worked  in  a more  comprehen- 
sive manner. 

Annelida. — Earthworms  were  not  numerous  anywhere  at 
great  elevations.  The  highest  positions  at  which  they  were  found 
were  in  the  neighbourhood  of  our  camp  on  Cayambe  (14,760  feet), 
and  upon  the  summit  of  Corazon  (15,871  feet).3 

1 So  far  as  I am  aware,  nothing  has  hitherto  been  obtained  from  the  height  of 
16,000  feet  in  Equatorial  America,  except  the  Lichens  mentioned  in  the  note  at 
the  foot  of  p.  334,  and,  perhaps,  the  Moss  to  which  reference  is  made  at  p.  76. 
The  Saxifrage  which  was  discovered  by  Boussingault  upon  his  attempt  to  ascend 
Chimborazo  in  1831,  Humboldt  says  ( Aspects  of  Nature , vol.  3,  pp.  35-6),  was  found 
at  15,770  feet.  “ On  the  declivity  of  the  Chimborazo  the  Saxifraga  Boussingaulti, 
described  by  Adolph  Brongniart,  grows  beyond  the  limit  of  perpetual  snow  on  loose 
boulders  of  rock  at  15,770  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  not  at  17,000  as  stated 
in  two  estimable  English  journals.  The  Saxifrage  discovered  by  Boussingault  is 
certainly,  up  to  the  present  time,  the  highest  known  phoenogamous  plant  on  the 
surface  of  the  earth.” 

2 These  will  be  found  enumerated  upon  pages  199  and  333-4. 

3 Rhinodrilus  Ecuadoriensis  [see  p.  112]  will  shortly  be  described  by  Dr.  Benham 
in  the  Annals  and  Magazine  of  Natural  History. 


352 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


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chap.  xix.  BOTANICAL  HIGHEST  - POINT  TABLE. 


353 


354 


TEA  VELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


Myriopoda. — Amongst  the  species  of  Centipedes  which  were 
obtained  in  Ecuador,  two,  belonging  to  the  genus  Newportia,  are 
considered  new  by  Mr.  B.  I.  Pocock  ; and  have  been  described  by 
him  under  the  names  N.  monticola  and  N.  dentata  in  the  Annals 
and  Magazine  of  Natural  History  for  August,  1890.  The  former 
of  these  came  from  La  Dormida,  Cayambe  (11,800  feet),  and  the 
latter  from  the  Seventh  Camp  on  Chimborazo  (12,000  feet).  Two 
of  the  others,  namely,  Otistigma  scabricauda  (Humb.  & Sauss.),  and 
Scolopocryptops  Mexicanus,  Humb.  & Sauss.,  have  a rather  wide 
range.  The  first-named  was  obtained  at  various  localities  between 

<z> 

8500  - 12,000  feet,  and  the  other  was  found  nearly  everywhere  in 
the  interior  up  to  13,300  feet.  It  was  taken  at  Tortorillas  (Chim- 
borazo), at  the  Hacienda  of  Antisana,  and  at  many  intermediate 
points.1  Only  one  species  of  Millipede  was  seen  in  the  interior, 
namely,  Spirobolus  spinipodex,  Karsch,  and  this  was  found  as  high  as 
12,000  feet  on  Picliincha,  and  from  12,000  to  13,000  feet  on  the  south 
side  of  Chimborazo.  Another  [Millipede,  ? Spirostreptus  (equator ialis, 
Porath,  was  taken  on  the  banks  of  the  Guayas,  at  Guayaquil. 

Coleoptera. — Descriptions  of  104  new  species,  by  Messrs.  H. 
AV.  Bates,  D.  Sharp,  II.  S.  Gorham,  A.  S.  Olliff  and  M.  Jacoby  will 
be  found  at  pp.  7-88  in  the  Supplement- 
ary Appendix.  The  number  of  beetles 
obtained  on  this  journey  which,  thus 
far,  have  been  identified  or  described 
amounts  to  two  hundred  and  six. 

Orthoptera. — The  wrhole  of  this  col- 
lection remains  undescribed.  Leaping 
Orthoptera  were  found  very  numerous 
up  to  the  height  of  12-13,000  feet,  and 
upon  Chimborazo  were  obtained  in  the 
Yallon  de  Carrel  at  16,000  feet.  Ear- 
wigs were  not  generally  abundant  in  the 

1 I understand  from  Mr.  Pocock  that  this  is  a Mexican  species,  and  is  common 
in  the  West  Indies  and  in  Brazil. 


FORCEPS  OF  AN  EARWIG  FROM 
CAYAMBE,  ENLARGED  FOUR 
DIAMETERS. 


CIIAP.  XIX. 


OR TIIOPTERA  AND  NEUROPTERA. 


355 


interior,  and  it  was  a surprise  to  find  them  ranging  so  high  as 
the  Sixtli  Camp  on  Chimborazo  (13,353  feet),  and  up  to  14,000 
feet  on  Cayambe.  The  species  on  the  former  mountain  was  just 
under  one -half  of  an  inch 
in  length,  and  an  enlarged 
Figure  of  it  is  given  here- 
with, to  assist  in  its  future 
identification.  The  Cayambe 
species  was  one  inch  in 
length,  with  unusually  large 
forceps.  From  the  low 
country  I have  a species 
one  inch  and  a half  in 
length. 

Examples  of  the  very 
curious  insects  called  Phas- 
mas  wei’e  taken  on  the  Plain 
of  Tumbaco,  in  the  basin  of 
Machachi,  at  La  Dormida, 

Cayambe,  and  as  high  as 

13,000  feet  (in  the  woods)  on  Pichiucha.  Their  close  resemblance 
to  sticks  and  twigs  causes  them  to  be  readily  overlooked,  and  many 
natives  in  the  interior  had  never  seen  them.  They  have,  however, 
the  local  name  Caballo  de  palo. 


EARWIG  FROM  13,353  FEET  ON  CHIMBORAZO. 


Neuroptera. — Dragon-flies  and  May -flies  were  numerous  in 
some  parts  of  the  interior,  especially  in  the  basin  of  Machachi. 
The  greatest  elevation  at  which  they  were  obtained  was  on  the 
track  from  Machachi  to  Pedregal  (the  pass  between  Pasochoa  and 
Kuminahui).  Dragon-flies  were  seen  higher  than  12,000  feet  on 
Pichiucha  and  Cotocachi. 

Hymenoptera. — The  Ants  alone  have  been  worked  out, — by 
Mr.  Peter  Cameron ; whose  contribution  will  be  found  at  pp. 
89-98  of  the  Supplementary  Appendix.  The  ‘set’  specimens  of  the 


356 


TEA  VELS  A1I0XGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


remainder,  have  been  compared  with  the  collections  in  the  British 
(Natural  History)  Museum,  and  it  is  found  that  the  following 
families  and  genera  are  included  amongst  them. 

The  Tenthredinidce  are  represented  by  a species  of  Strongylogasler. 

There  are  several  species  of  Ichneumonidce.  apparently  belonging  to  the 
genera  Ichneumon,  Jlesostenus,  Ophion.  Hemiteles , Cryptus.  Echthrus,  and 
Lissonota  (?). 

There  is  a single  small  species  belonging  to  the  family  Chrysididce. 

The  Dorylidm  are  represented  by  a single  species,  apparently  belonging 
to  Labidus. 

In  Scoliidce  there  are  three  handsome  species  of  Dielis. 

In  Pompilidce  several  species  belonging  to  the  genera  Pompilus  and  Pepsis 
were  obtained. 

In  Sphegidce  there  are  two  species  of  Sphex. 

The  Vespiche  are  represented  by  species  of  Polistes  and  Folyhia. 

The  greater  part  of  the  collection,  however,  consists  of  Apidce 
(Bees),  and  the  species  obtained  appear  to  belong  to  the  following 
genera  : Megacilissa,  Halictus,  Ceratina,  Melissodes  ( ?),  Eucera  (?), 
Anthophora,  Megachile, Xylocopa, Euglossa , Eulema,  Bombus , Tetra- 
pedia,  and  Trigona.  Among  these,  a black  and  white  Bombus, 
closely  resembling  a Chilian  species,  is  particularly  common. 

The  species  that  are  believed  to  come  under  Dielis  include  the 
formidable  insect  which  is  figured  upon  p.  96  under  the  nickname 
of  “the  Bishop.”  This  seemed  to  be  very  widely  distributed.  It 
was  obtained  at  various  places  between  7500-11,000  feet,  and 
was  seen  as  high  as  12,000  feet.  Another  large  and  equally 

stinging  Dielis  was  taken  by  myself  on  the  Plain  of  Tumbaco, 
but  was  seen  there  only.  Two  large  and  beautiful  species  which 
are  believed  to  come  under  Pepsis  were  captured  between  11- 
12,000  feet  on  Pichincha,  at  12,000  feet  on  Illiniza,  and  at  a 
similar  altitude  upon  Cotocachi.  These  four  above  - mentioned 
insects  were  the  largest  of  the  Ilymenoptera  taken  anywhere  in 
Ecuador.  Several  other  species  were  obtained  as  high  as  12,000 
feet,  and  two  at  greater  elevations,  namely,  an  Ichneumon  in  the 


CHAP.  XIX. 


LEPIDOPTERA. 


357 


neighbourhood  of  the  Hacienda  of  Antisana  (13,300  feet),  and  an 
Opliion  near  Tortorillas,  Chimborazo  (13,300  feet).  Xone  of  the 
Hymenopterous  insects  made  themselves  objectionable.  We  were 
stung  by  them  only  when  their  liberty  was  interfered  with. 

Lepidoptera.  — I am  greatly  indebted  to'  Messrs.  Godman  & 
Salvin  for  having  examined  the  Butterflies  [see  Supp.  App. 
pp.  96-110].  Twenty -nine 
species  were  obtained  from 
7300  feet  upwards.  Two  of 
these,  namely,  Colias  dimera, 

Doubl.  & Hew.,  and  Pieris 
xanthodice,  Lucas,  are  ex- 
ceedingly numerous  in  the 
interior  of  Ecuador,  and 
the  latter  species  attains  a 
greater  range  in  altitude 
[from  below  9000  feet  to  above  15,000  feet]  than  I observed  in 
the  case  of  any  other  Butterfly.1 


PIERIS  XANTHODICE,  LUCAS. 


The  Moths  have  undergone  a preliminary  examination  at  the 
hands  of  Mr.  H.  Druce,  who  recognizes  the  following  23  genera. 


Agrotis  (7  - 11,800  feet). 
Arctic/,  (9800). 

Azelina  (1500). 

Castina  (3  - 4000). 
Cidaria  (12,500-13,300). 
Charideci  (3  - 4,000). 
Crambus  (9  - 10,000). 
Dariza  (13,300). 

Dotecta  (9000). 

Endrobia  (9200). 

Epiolus  (11,800). 


Erebus  (0  - 9800). 

Eupyra  (3  - 8500). 

Eurimene  (11,800). 
Ilalsidota  (10.000  - 11,800). 
Leptosphetta  (3-4000). 
Lophocampa  (8500). 

2 Margaronia  (level  of  sea). 

2 Opisogon ia  (11,500  - 12,000). 

Sangala  (3  - 8500). 

2 Scordylia  (12,350- 13,300). 

2 Scotosia  (8000  - 8500). 
Semeopus  (9200). 


There  are  probably  species  of  not  fewer  than  13  other  genera  in 
the  collection. 


1 This  Butterfly,  I am  informed  by  Messrs.  Godman  & Salvin,  has  a wide  range 
in  latitude  in  the  Andes.  2 Caught,  in  the  daytime. 


358 


TRA  VELS  AMONGST  THE  GREA  T ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


Thirty  - five  species  were  captured  at  or  above  8500  feet. 
The  largest  of  the  whole  has  been  identified  by  Mr.  Druce 
as  Erebus  odor  a,  Lin.  Of  the  three  examples  which  were 
obtained,  two  — a male  and  a female  — were  brought  in  alive 
by  my  young  friends  at  Machachi  (9800).  The  third  was 
secured  upon  the  homeward  voyage,  on  the  Pacific  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company's  SS.  Ilo,  about  100  miles  south  of  Panama. 
I noticed  this  moth,  careering  about  the  ship,  twenty-four  hours 
before  it  was  taken.  Some  of  the  crew  said  that  it  flew 
on  board  while  we  were  at  sea,  but  it  seems  to  me  more 
probable  that  it  came  to  us  while  the  llo  was  lying  in  the 
Guayaquil  river.  One  of  the  Machachi  specimens  measures 
inches  across  the  wings.  All  three  examples  were  powerful 
and  tenacious  of  life,  and  this  moth  is  also  exceptional 
in  its  great  range  in  altitude, — having  been  taken,  as  I have 
stated  above,  at  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  nearly  10,000  feet 
higher. 

The  species  which  were  secured  at  the  greatest  heights 
have  not  been  determined  — even  generically.  Amongst  others 

may  be  noted  a beautiful 
pure  white  moth,  with  wings 
of  satin  - like  texture,  which 
was  taken  at  about  12,000 
feet,  in  the  daytime,  on  the 
eastern  slopes  of  Pichincha. 
A Figure  of  this  is  annexed, 
of  the  natural  size.  Another, 
at  first  sight  not  very  dis- 

MOTH  FROM  12,000  FEET  ON  PICHINCHA.  ° * 

similar  in  appearance,  but  of 
smaller  size,  and  having  a suspicion  of  golden  colour  on  the 
otherwise  pure  white  upper  wings,  was  captured  at  our  camp 
on  Gotocaclii  (14,500  feet),  in  the  dusk.  The  loftiest  position 
at  which  we  actually  obtained  moths  was  on  the  very  highest 
point  of  Guagua  Pichincha  (15,918  feet).  A rather  numerous 


CHAP.  XIX. 


DIPT  ERA. 


359 


company  was  fluttering  about  the  summit  ridge.  This,  the  highest 
moth  obtained,  was  also  the  smallest 
taken  anywhere  in  Ecuador. 

Diptera. — The  Diptera  as  a whole 
have  not  been  examined,  but  I have  had 
the  advantage  of  submitting  some  sec- 
tions to  Baron  C.  R.  Osten  Sacken,  who 
has  recognised  amongst  them  species  of 
the  following  genera. 

Sciara,  a broad-winged  species  of  a South - 
American  and  Mexican  type,  like  Sc.  Ameri- 
cana, Wied. 

Plecia,  a small  black  species.  Another  larger  and  more  slender  species 
(Cotocaehi.  11  -13.000  feet)  may  perhaps  belong  to  the  genus  Spodius,  Lw. 
(Hesperinus,  Walk.)  which  has  been  found  in  the  British  possessions  of  North 
America,  in  the  higher  regions  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  also  in  Eastern 
Europe. 

Dilophus,  a single  specimen  of  a small  species  of  very  ordinary  appearance. 

Bibio,  male  specimens  of  a black  species  of  ordinary  appearance. 

Pachyrrkina,  a couple  of  specimens. 

Tipula,  four  or  five  species;  one  of  them  from  La  Dormida,  Cavambe 
(11.800  feet),  with  the  knot- like  swellings  on  the  joints  of  the  antennae, 
peculiar  to  some  South-American  and  Mexican  species. 

Dicranomyia , a male  specimen,  camp  on  Cavambe  (15.000  feet). 

Rhyphiis,  a single  specimen,  with  pretty  variegated  wings. 

Tabanus.  a single  specimen  of  a small,  inconspicuous  species. 

Chrysopila.  a single  specimen  of  the  usual  type,  with  the  golden  pubes- 
cence. 

Odontomyia,  ordinary  type. 

Empis,  several  specimens  of  a small  black  species  from  Antisana,  and  La 
Dormida,  Cavambe. 

Asilus,  a small  gray  species,  represented  by  a couple  of  specimens. 

Eristalis.  I could  distinguish  three  species, — one  with  a gray  transverse 
band  on  the  thorax,  not  unlike  the  E.  albiceps,  Macq.,  from  the  southern 
United  States,  or  the  E.  seniculus  from  Cuba. 


MOTHS  FROM  14.500  FEET  ON 
COTOCACHI,  AND  SUMMIT 
OF  PICHINCHA. 


360 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


3Iesograpta  (an  exclusively  American  genus),  a couple  of  species  of  ordi- 
nary appearance. 

Allograpta,  a single  specimen  may  belong  to  this  genus. 

Volucella,  two  specimens  of  medium  size,  the  body  dark  brownish 
violet. 

Tachinidce,  abundantly  represented,  as  might  be  expected  from  an  Ameri- 
can mountain  - fauna  ; among  them  several  Dejeanice,  with  black  or  rufous 
hairs  and  spines,  the  latter  very  like  the  species  common  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

Rather  numerous  Muscidce  and  Anthomyidce,  some  of  them  resembling 
European  species,  and  among  them  the  genuine  3Iusca  domestica. 

A small  Ortalid  ( Euxesta  ?),  some  Drosophila,  a Sapromyza,  a Calobata,  and 
a Taniaptera  conclude  the  series. 

Some  of  the  Diptera  were  the  only  insects  in  the  interior  that 
were  aggressive.  There  were  several  species  of  Flies  on  the  Quito 
Road  that  assailed  us  wantonly  and  pertinaciously.  Above  7000 
feet,  Musquitoes  were  found  only  at  one  place  (and  not  in  a situa- 
tion where  there  seemed  to  be  any  special  reason  for  their  location, 
though  there  must  have  been  one),  namely,  upon  the  road  between 
Penipe  and  the  Hacienda  of  Candelaria,  a little  below  the  latter 
place,  at  about  9000  feet.  The  members  of  this  colony  were  ener- 
getic, and  attacked  us  with  spirit  and  determination.  Musquito 
nets  were  not  necessary  anywhere  in  Ecuador,  although  at  some 
places  (Bodegas  de  Babahoyo,  for  example)  they  would  have  been 
useful. 

Arachxida. — The  Scorpions  have  been  identified  by  Prof.  E. 
Ray  Lankester  and  Mr.  R.  I.  Pocock,  but  the  major  part  of  this 
collection  has  not  been  worked  out.  Spiders  were  found  on  the 
summits  of  Corazon  and  Pichincha,  and  at  many  other  nearly 
equally  elevated  positions.  The  legions  which  swarmed  upon  the 
slopes  below  indicate  that  entomological  food  was  in  abundance  ; 
and  I do  not  doubt  that  there  were,  even  in  the  close  vicinity  of 
perpetual  snow,  multitudes  of  very  minute  insects  that  gave  them 
sustenance. 


chap.  xix. 


CRUSTACEA. 


361 


Crustacea.  — Inferences  to  the  few  species  which  were  met 
with  in  Ecuador  will  be  found  at  pp.  121  - 127  of  the  Supplementary 
Aj)pendix.  The  Am- 
phipod  (Hyalella  iner- 
mis,  S.  I.  Smith)  to 
which  I was  introduced 
at  Machachi  [see  p.  118] 
was  subsequently  taken 
in  pools  round  about 
the  Hacienda  of  Anti- 
sana  (13,300  feet),  and 
no  Amphipod  appears 
to  have  been  obtained 
hitherto  elsewhere  at 
so  considerable  an  ele- 
vation. The  annexed  Figure  is  magnified  ten  diameters. 

In  the  Tables  upon  pp.  362,  363,  a first  attempt  is  made  to 
shew  at  a glance  the  highest  points  which  are  attained  in  Ecuador 
by  various  forms  of  animal  life.  They  include  two  ‘ stragglers/ 
namely,  the  small  Bug  that  has  been  referred  to  the  genus  Emesa 
[p.  134],  which  was  captured  on  the  southern  side  of  Illiniza,  on 
snow  at  16,500  feet ; and  a Fly,  that  Baron  Osten  Sacken  identifies 
as  belonging  to  the  genus  Tanypus,  which  was  taken,  on  snow,  at 
16,200  feet  on  the  northern  side  of  the  same  mountain.  These 
insects,  doubtless,  had  been  carried  by  wind  away  from  their  usual 
haunts.  The  situations  where  they  were  found  could  not  have 
been  their  natural  dwelling-places. 

While  forming  these  collections  I was  led  to  remark  the  fre- 
quency with  which  closely  similar  forms  recurred  at  similar  altitudes, 
upon  mountains  often  long  distances  apart.  This  was  observed  in 
regard  to  things  living  in  the  soil,  as  well  as  in  respect  to  winged 
insects  of  roving  habits.  It  was  not  unusual  to  see  Butterflies, 
apparently  of  the  same  species,  at  closely  similar  altitudes  upon 
widely  separated  mountains.  This  was  the  case  with  a Lyccena 

3 A 


HYALELLA  INERMIS,  S.  I.  SMITH  (9800-  13,300  FEET). 


362 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap,  xix, 


chap.  xix.  ZOOLOGICAL  HIGHEST- POINT  TABLE. 


363 


364 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


that  has  not  been  described,  which  was  taken  at  11-12,500  feet 
on  Pichincha  and  thirty  - six  miles  away  at  12,000  feet  on 
Cotocachi,  and  was  not  seen  elsewhere.  Bnt,  for  the  most  part, 
butterflies  which  were  taken  at  considerable  elevations  were 
also  found  on  the  connecting,  lower  ground.  Thus,  Pieris  xantlio- 
dice,  Lucas,  though  captured  so  high  as  14,000  and  15,000  feet, 
was  found  everywhere  in  the  intervening  basins  ; and  as,  even 
had  this  not  been  so,  it  would  need  little  effort  for  them  to  pass 
from  one  mountain  to  another,  and  further  as  they  may  sometimes 
suffer  involuntary  transportation,  no  particular  stress  can  be  laid 
upon  such  instances  of  occasional  recurrence  at  similar  elevations. 

One  Butterfly,  however,  was  exceptional  in  being  found  upon 
nearly  all  the  mountains  we  visited,  in  numbers,  and  seemed  to 

be  established  between  the  eleva- 
tions 12,000  - 16,000  feet.  This  is 
described  by  Messrs.  Godman  & 
Salvia,  at  p.  107  of  the  Supplement- 
ary  Appendix,  as  Colias  alticola.  It 
was  first  obtained  near  Tortorillas, 
Chimborazo  (13,300  feet),  and  was 
seen  in  the  Vallon  de  Carrel  as  high  as  16,000  feet.  When  we 
were  encamped  upon  Antisana  it  attracted  attention  by  the  great 
elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea  at  which  it  was  flying  (16,000 
feet).  It  was  seen  subsequently  upon  all  the  mountains  we  visited 

(except  Sara-urcu)  between  the  ele- 
vations of  12  - 15,000  feet,  and  was 
captured  at  12,000  feet  on  Pichin- 
cha, at  13,000  feet  on  Cayambe,  and 
at  15,000  feet  on  the  western  side 
of  Chimborazo,  and  was  never  either 
taken  or  seen  in  the  basins  between 
these  mountains. 

The  only  other  species  with  which  this  could  have  been  con- 
fused is  represented  in  the  annexed  Figure.  This,  the  most  common 


COLIAS  ALTICOLA,  GODMAN  ft  SALVIN. 


COLIAS  DIMERA,  DOUBL.  ft  HEW. 


CHAP.  XIX. 


BONPLAND'S  ‘ YELLOW  BUTTERFLY.' 


365 


butterfly  in  the  interior  of  Ecuador,  is  found  from  7200-11,000  feet, 
and  is  sometimes  met  with  so  high  as  12-13,000  feet.  The  range 
in  altitude  of  Colias  ilimerci  therefore  overlaps  that  of  C.  alticola  ; 
but  while  the  former  species  is  distributed  nearly  everywhere  in 
the  interior  and  occasionally  reaches  a considerable  height,  the  latter 
affects  great  elevations  and  is  not  seen  on  the  lower  ground.  In- 
asmuch as  Colias  alticola  is  well  established  on  the  upper  slopes  of 
the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator,  and  is  the  only  one  ranging  up  to 
perpetual  snow,  it  seems  probable  that  it  was  ‘ the  yellow  butter- 
fly ’ which  was  observed  by  Bonpland  on  Chimborazo,  in  1802  [see 
p.  114].  So  far  as  is  known,  it  attains  a higher  elevation  than 
any  other  Butterfly  on  either  of  the  two  American  Continents. 

The  recurrence  of  species  whose  habits  are  in-terranean,  at 
great  heights,  long  distances  apart,  is  perhaps  more  noteworthy 
than  the  case  which  has  just  been  given  of  a butterfly  domiciled 
in  insular  situations.  The  following  beetles  wrere  found  at  the 
localities  -which  are  mentioned,  and  only  at  those  places. 


Species. 


Approximate 

Localities.  distance  apart 

in  miles. 


Colpodes  diopsis,  Bates  . . 


C.  megacephalus,  Bates  . . 


C.  orthomus,  Bates  . . . 


C.  steno,  Bates 


Helicorrhynchus  vulsus , Ollift 


Macrops  ccelorum,  OllifE  . . -j 

Naupadus  parvicollis,  Ollift' . -J 
Pelmatellus  Andium,  Bates  . 


Summit  of  Corazon  15,870 
Pichincha  . . 14-15,000 

24 

Tlac.  of  Antisana  13,300 

Cayambe . . 

. 12-14,000 

- 36 

Pichincha 

15,600 

Tlac.  of  Antisana  13,300 

40 

Cayambe . . 

. 12-15,000 

Pichincha  . 
Cayambe  . . 

. 14-15,500 

15,000 

■ 43 

Pichincha  . 

15,500 

- 94 

Chimborazo  . 

. 15,800-16,000 

Pichincha 

15,500 

94 

Chimborazo  . 

16,000 

Cayambe . . 
Chimborazo  . 

15,000 

15,800 

■ 120 

Cotocachi 

. 11,000-13,500 

• 140 

Chimborazo  . 

. 12-13,300 

366 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


The  fact  that  none  of  these  species  were  seen  at  lower  eleva- 
tions cannot  be  regarded  as  evidence  that  they  are  restricted  to  the 
lofty  positions  at  which  they  were  discovered  ; though  it  is  unlikely 
that  insects  which  obviously  found  themselves  ‘ at  home  ’ under  the 
conditions  that  were  mentioned  at  pages  113  and  237  will  he  found 
at  much  lower  levels,  enjoying  much  higher  mean  temperatures. 

Upon  the  whole,  it  appeared  that  most  individual  species  had 
a comparatively  small  range  in  altitude  in  Ecuador.  One  of  the 
most  prominent  exceptions  to  the  general  rule  was  the  Moth 
{Erebus  odora,  Lin.)  which  was  referred  to  upon  p.  358,  that  was 
taken  at  the  level  of  the  sea  and  nearly  ten  thousand  feet  above 
it.  This  was  exceeded  only  by  one  other  species,  namely,  by  a 
Wood-louse  which  has  been  identified  by  the  Rev.  A.  E.  Eaton  as 
Metoponorthus  pruinosus , Brandt ; and  this  little  Crustacean  seems 
entitled  to  consideration,  for  it  must  possess  in  a most  unusual 
degree  the  power  of  accommodating  itself  to  circumstances.1 

It  now  remains  to  summarize  our  experiences  at  low  pressures  ; 
and,  before  recapitulating  them,  to  offer  a few  general  remarks 
upon  the  affections,  pains  and  disorders  which  are  so  often  called 
Mai  de  montagne  or  Mountain-sickness. 

This  term  has  been  in  use  throughout  the  nineteenth  century. 
It  was  originally  adopted  because  it  was  observed  that  men  and 
other  animals  were  affected  in  various  unpleasant  ways  upon 
reaching  great  elevations  on  mountains  ; and,  as  it  was  unknown 
that  the  same  effects  could  be  produced  in  mid-air,  in  balloon,  or 
at  the  level  of  the  sea  by  artificial  reduction  in  pressure,  it  was 
concluded  that  they  were  peculiar  to  mountains.  To  the  present 
time,  amongst  ignorant  persons,  they  are  often  supposed  to  arise 
from  purely  local  causes. 

1 It  was  obtained  among  roots  of  trees  on  the  banks  of  the  Guavas,  just  outside 
Guayaquil ; in  the  garden  of  Senor  Gomez  de  la  Torre  at  Ibarra  (7200  feet) ; at  the 
back  of  the  Hacienda  of  Guachala  (9200  feet) ; on  the  track  between  Antisanilla 
and  Pinantura  (11,000  feet) ; in  the  woods  on  Pichincha  (12,000  feet) ; and  close  to 
the  Hacienda  of  Antisana  (13,300  feet). 


CHAP.  XIX. 


SUMMARY  OF  OUR  EXPERIENCES. 


367 


While  there  is  not  the  least  doubt  that  they  are  directly  or 
indirectly  produced  by  diminution  in  atmospheric  pressure,  many 
writers  (even  amongst  those  who  are  well  convinced  that  this  is 
the  true  cause)  continue  to  speak,  when  discussing  mountain- 
sickness,  solely  of  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea  and  ignore 
pressure  ; and  in  this  way  help  to  perpetuate  the  false  idea  that  it 
is  an  effect  of  altitude.  In  the  remarks  that  follow,  less  promin- 
ence will  be  given  to  the  heights  which  were  reached  than  to  the 
pressures  which  were  experienced  ; though,  as  it  is  more  usual 
to  think  in  feet  than  in  barometric  inches,  the  approximately 
equivalent  elevations  will  be  given  with  the  pressures  that  are 
mentioned. 

Notwithstanding  the  large  number  of  allusions  which  had  been 
made  in  print  to  Mountain  - sickness,  I was  unable,  prior  to  my 
journey  amongst  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator,  to  tell  at  what 
pressure  it  was  probable  that  we  might  or  should  be  affected.  I 
found,  also,  that  I could  not  distinguish  with  certainty  the  effects 
which  were  due  to  diminution  in  pressure  from  those  which  might 
have  arisen  from  other  causes  ; or,  further,  say  which  (if  any)  of 
the  effects  that  might  be  certainly  due  to  diminution  in  pressure 
would  remain  permanently  if  one  should  continue  constantly  at  a 
low  pressure.  These  three  points  were  those  upon  which  I sought 
for  information. — Firstly,  at  what  pressure  shall  we  commence  to  be 
affected  ? Secondly,  in  what  way  shall  we  be  affected  ? Thirdly, 
can  one  become  habituated  to  low  pressures  ? 

The  answer  to  the  first  question  came  sooner  than  was  ex- 
pected. At  a pressure  of  16 ‘500  inches  (16,664  feet)  we  were 
incapacitated  for  work  [pp.  48-53],  and  found  ourselves  pre- 
occupied by  the  paramount  necessity  of  obtaining  air.  All  pains 
had  been  taken  to  eliminate  the  possibility  of  complications  from 
other  causes,  and  I repeat  [see  p.  52]  “ that  our  f incapacity  ’ at 
this  time  was  neither  due  to  exhaustion  nor  to  deficiency  of  bodily 
strength,  nor  to  weakness  from  want  of  food,  but  was  caused  by 
the  whole  of  our  attention  being  taken  up  in  efforts  to  get  air.” 


368 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


Three  things  were  especially  noticeable — («)  the  suddenness  with 
which  we  were  vanquished ; and  ( b ) the  simultaneous  collapse 
of  the  Carrels  and  myself ; although  (c)  Mr.  Perring  remained 
unaffected. 

Before  being  overcome  in  this  way,  no  symptoms  were  re- 
marked in  ourselves,1  and  during  the  attack  the  only  external 
indication  that  we  were  affected  was  given  by  laboured  respiration, 
accompanied  by  spasmodic  gasps  or  gulps  ; but  conjoined  there 
wTas  intense  headache,  and  (what  others  have  termed)  an  indescrib- 
able feeling  of  illness,  pervading  almost  the  whole  body. 

This  attack,  which  came  upon  us  so  suddenly,  passed  away 
very  gradually,  by  such  infinitesimal  degrees  that  I am  unable  to 
say  when  we  entirely  recovered  from  it.  It  seemed  to  arrive  at 
a maximum  quickly,  to  remain  equally  intense  for  several  hours, 
and  it  then  died  away  imperceptibly.  While  it  lasted,  there  was 
feverishness,  marked  acceleration  in  the  rate  of  the  pulse,  and  rise 
in  body  temperature  [pp.  49,  52].  Twenty -four  hours  after  its 
commencement  there  was  a distinct  improvement  in  the  condition 
of  the  Carrels  ; the  intensity  of  their  headaches  had  diminished, 
and  the  ‘ indescribable  feeling  of  illness  ’ had  disappeared.  Twelve 
hours  earlier  than  this  it  was  possible  to  satisfy  our  wants  for  air 
by  breathing  through  the  nostrils  alone.  At  1 p.m.  on  Dec.  28,  I 
was  able  to  keep  my  mouth  shut  during  the  ten  minutes  requisite 
for  taking  my  temperature. 

Thirty -six  hours  after  the  commencement  of  the  attack,  the 
Carrels  were  much  better,  and  became  eager  to  continue  explora- 
tion. Anticipating  that  they  might  be  adversely  affected  upon 
sustaining  further  diminution  in  pressure,  I directed  them  not  to 
endeavour  to  reach  a great  elevation  [p.  53],  but  gave  no  reasons 

1 Our  animals,  however,  shewed  decided  signs  of  exhaustion  before  pressure  had 
fallen  to  17  inches  [see  p.  46],  and  they  were  nearly  dead  beat  by  the  time  they 
arrived  at  the  Second  Camp  (16'500  inches). 

If  more  attention  had  been  paid  to  ourselves,  I do  not  doubt  that  premonitory 
symptoms  would  have  been  noticed.  My  excuse,  or  explanation,  is  given  on 
pp.  44,  51.  I was  taken  unawares,  not  expecting  to  be  affected  so  soon. 


chap.  xrx. 


EVIDENCES  OF  DETERIORATION. 


369 


for  the  instruction ; and  they,  imagining  that  the  ascent  of  the 
mountain  was  the  first  consideration,  made  a push  for  the  summit 
[p.  59].  They  were  away  nearly  twelve  hours,  and  during  this 
time  experienced  reduction  in  pressure  from  16'500  to  about 
15*100  inches,  while  ascending  from  16,664  to  19,300  feet.  Upon 
return,  their  condition  closely  approached  complete  exhaustion. 
They  staggered  like  men  in  an  advanced  state  of  intoxication,  and 
threw  themselves  down  and  went  to  sleep  without  either  eating  or 
drinking  [p.  59].' 

During  the  time  they  had  been  absent,  my  own  condition  had 
materially  improved  ; and  thus  it  appeared  that  although  there 
was  a likelihood  we  should  become  habituated  to  a pressure  of 
16*500  inches,  there  was  a probability  that  we  should  be  further 
affected  at  still  lower  pressures.  This  determined  the  position  of 
the  Third  Camp  (16*000  inches;  17,285  feet).  While  transport 
was  being  effected  between  the  two  posts,  it  seemed  that  we  had 
grown  weaker,  and  we  certainly  were  [p.  61]  “comparatively  life- 
less and  feeble,  and  had  a strong  disposition  to  sit  down.”  By 
January  2,  headaches  had  nearly  departed,  feverishness  had  dis- 
appeared (my  temperature  had  fallen  to  97° '9  Faht.),  and  the 
circulation  had  gone  back  to  the  normal  rate ; but  respiration 
continued  to  be  affected,  and  it  was  found  that  we  could  not 
satisfy  our  wants  for  air,  while  in  movement,  except  by  breathing 
through  nostrils  and  mouths. 

Under  the  further  fall  in  pressure  which  occurred  when  ascend- 
ing on  January  3 to  the  foot  of  the  Southern  Walls  of  Chimborazo 
(16*000  to  15*290  inches)  it  tvas  remarked  that  the  rate  of  travel- 
ling was  unusually  slow  ; and  this  was  more  distinctly  seen  on  the 
following  day  when  mounting  to  the  summit  (pressure  declining 
from  16*000  to  14*100  inches).  At  a little  above  19,000  feet,  I 
noticed  that  “our  paces  got  shorter  and  shorter,  until  at  last  the 

1 At  the  time  of  their  return,  no  opinion  could  be  formed  as  to  their  rale.  If 
two  hours  were  occupied  in  halts,  and  ten  hours  in  movement,  the  mean  of  their 
ascending  and  descending  rates  would  be  only  526  feet  per  hour. 

3 B 


370 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


toe  of  one  step  almost  touched  the  heel  of  the  next  one.”  Our  rate 
on  this  day  was  deplorable,  partly  owing  to  exceptional  softness  of 
the  snow  [p.  71]. 

Circumstances  then  compelled  me  to  leave  Chimborazo  [pp. 
78-80]  and  to  descend  to  lower  levels.  Between  Jan.  12  and 
Feb.  17,  the  highest  pressure  observed  was  22T5G,  at  Ambato, 
and  the  lowest  was  16 '348  inches,  on  Illiniza  [p.  133].  Upon 
February  18-10,  we  stayed  at  or  close  to  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi 
(19,500  to  19,613  feet)  for  twenty -six  consecutive  hours,  with 
the  barometer  standing  at  14 '750  inches,  without  any  serious 
inconvenience  [p.  150].  This  was  the  greatest  length  of  time  we 
remained  continuously  at  so  low  pressure. 

As  we  were  not  ' incapacitated  ’ upon  Cotopaxi,  it  was  not 
likely  that  we  should  be  very  acutely  affected  upon  Antisana  or 
Cayambe.  Headache  did  not  occur  at  all,  while  ascending  these 
considerable  mountains ; and  nothing  was  noted  that  could  be 
attributed  to  ‘ rarefaction  of  the  air’  except  the  feeling  of  lassitude 
and  want  of  bodily  strength,  which  always  manifested  itself  at  the 
lower  and  lowest  pressures  [pp.  61,  70,  150,  235].  The  spirit 
indeed  was  willing  but  the  flesh  was  weak.  Upon  Cayambe  there 
was  convincing  evidence  that  my  two  assistants  were  less  vigorous 
than  usual  [p.  235]. 

After  quitting  Cayambe,  the  barometer  was  not  again  seen 
standing  below  16  inches  until  the  second  ascent  of  Chimborazo; 
and  upon  tliis  occasion  our  experiences  did  not  differ  from  those 
last  mentioned.  No  one  had  headache  ; but,  while  in  movement, 
all  found  it  was  necessary  to  breathe  through  the  mouth  as  well 
as  through  the  nostrils.  When  at  rest,  sufficient  air  could  be 
obtained  through  the  nostrils  alone  ; and  on  the  summit  I was 
able  to  keep  my  mouth  shut  for  ten  minutes  while  observing  my 
temperature. 

Excluding  the  time  passed  on  the  flat  coast  land,  we  were  212 
days  in  Ecuador,  and  the  nights  were  passed  at  the  pressures  and 
elevations  mentioned  upon  the  next  page. 


371 


CHAP.  XIX. 

PRESSURES  EXPERIENCED. 

Number 
of  nights. 

Atmospheric  pressure 
experienced. 

Height  above  level  of  sea. 

4 . 

29-000-28-500  inches  . 

Less  than  6000  feet. 

4 . 

23-600-22-540  ,, 

Between  60()0  - 8000  feet 

30  . 

22-510-21-900  „ 

do.  8000  - 9000  „ 

90  . 

21-720-2M10  „ 

do.  9000-  10,000  „ 

6 . 

20-920 -20-200  „ 

do.  10,000-  11,000  „ 

15  . 

19-800-19-500  „ 

do.  11,000-  12,000  „ 

14  . 

19-270-  18-900  ., 

do.  12.000-  13,000  „ 

13  . 

18-755-18-280  „ 

do.  13.000-  14,000  „ 

4 . 

18-080-  17-780  ,, 

do.  14,000-  14,500  „ 

4 . 

. 17-730 

At  14,762 

1 . 

. 17-410 

do.  14,992 

5 . 

. 17-430 

. do.  15,139  ,, 

1 . 

. 17-250 

do.  15,207 

1 . 

. 17-220 

. do.  15,446  ,, 

2 . 

. 10950  ,, 

do.  15,811  ,, 

1 . 

. 16-840 

do.  15,984  ,, 

10  . 

. 16-500 

do.  16,664  ,, 

6 . 

. 16-000 

do.  17,285 

1 . 

. 14-750  ,, 

do.  19,500 

Having  recapitulated  the  various  ways  in  which  we  were 
affected  whilst  among  the  Great  Andes,  I now  pass  on  to  the  question, 
Can  one  become  habituated  to  low  pressures  P and  in  connection 
with  this  bring  together  in  a tabular  form  upon  page  372  a few 
examples  of  the  rates  of  speed  that  were  attained  over  the  longer 
courses  ; selecting  them  only  from  instances  in  which  the  times 
occupied  were  exactly  noted  and  the  differences  of  level  were 
well  ascertained,  and  taking  them  from  those  in  which  we  started 
unexhausted  by  previous  work,  from  places  where  atmospheric 
pressure  was  already  low. 

Without  a few  words  of  explanation,  not  much  edification  can 
be  obtained  from  this  table.  A reader  may  compare  the  entry  at 
January  7 with  that  of  June  9 and  conclude  from  the  apparent 
falling -off  that  there  is  evidence  of  deterioration  rather  than  of 
improvement.  This  conclusion  would  be  erroneous.  The  dissimi- 
larity of  the  work  sufficiently  accounts  for  the  difference  between 


RATES  OF  SPEED  ( ASCENDING). 


372  TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


CHAP.  XIX. 


EVIDENCES  OF  HABITUATION. 


373 


the  rates.  Few  of  these  examples  can  properly  be  compared  with 
each  other  ; for,  besides  the  reason  given  upon  p.  299,  on  some 
occasions  the  party  was  larger  or  smaller  (and  this  always  exerts 
an  influence)  ; and  sometimes  we  were  laden  and  at  others  unen- 
cumbered. The  condition  of  the  weather  has  also  to  be  taken  into 
account. 

Upon  the  whole  these  observations  afford  indications  that  we 
became  somewhat  habituated  to  low  pressures.  If  the  entries  at 
January  3,  6 and  7 are  compared,  a continuous  advance  will  be 
noted.  This,  however,  was  partly  due  to  increasing  familiarity 
with  the  ground  which  was  traversed.  There  is  stronger  evidence 
of  improvement  on  Feb.  18,  when  over  a much  longer  course  the 
mean  rate  was  faster  than  on  the  shorter  one  of  January  3 ; and 
this  was  exceeded  upon  March  10  and  April  4 when  we  were 
unembarrassed  by  natives.  The  nature  of  the  work  upon  Illiniza 
and  Cotocachi  was  similar,  and  through  absorption  of  time  by  step- 
cutting the  rates  upon  those  mountains  were  slower  than  upon 
Cotopaxi,  Antisana  or  Cayambe.  Comparison  of  the  entries  at 
Fel).  9,  April  24  and  June  9 shews  no  deterioration,  although  there 
is  little  sign  of  progress.  There  is  a more  marked  contrast  between 
the  rates  of  January  4 and  July  3,  but  this  is  modified  if  due 
allowance  is  made  in  the  first  case  for  the  exceptional  softness 
of  the  snow,  in  the  second  one  for  the  greater  simplicity  of  the 
route. 

But  although  it  seemed  that  we  did  become  somewhat  habitu- 
ated to  low  pressures,  and  that  this  was  shewn  amongst  other 
ways  by  improvement  in  speed,  it  appeared  to  me  that  the  best  of 
our  rates  were  inferior  to  those  which  we  should  have  attained 
over  the  same  ground  at  higher  pressures  ; and  I brought  this 
point  to  the  test  related  upon  pp.  300-301,  and  obtained  from 
that  experiment  evidence  that  I was  materially  affected  by,  and 
weakened  at,  a pressure  of  21  inches  (9850  feet).  It  need  scarcely 
be  remarked  that  this  observation  has  a very  wide  interest ; for, 
if  it  is  really  the  case  that  the  bodily  powers  are  lessened  under 


374 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TILE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


prolonged  diminution  in  pressure,  the  fact  must  affect  all  calcula- 
tions which  may  be  made  on  the  basis  of  higher  pressures  either 
in  respect  to  the  marching  of  troops,  transport  by  animals,  the 
labour  of  the  navvy,  or  any  other  description  of  work  dependent 
upon  muscular  exertion. 

In  reviewing  the  whole  of  our  experiences,  two  different  sets 
of  effects  could  be  distinguished ; namely,  those  which  were 
transitory,  and  those  which  were  permanent,  — that  is  to  say, 
permanent  so  long  as  we  remained  at  low  pressures. 

The  transitory  effects  were  acceleration  of  the  circulation  of 
the  blood,  increase  in  the  temperature  of  the  body,  and  pressure  on 
the  blood-vessels.  The  permanent  ones  were  augmentation  of  the 
rate  of  breathing  and  disturbance  of  the  habitual  manner  of 
respiration,  indisposition  to  take  food,  and  lessening  of  muscular 
power.  The  whole  of  these,  doubtless,  were  due  to  diminution 
in  pressure,  but  the  transitory  ones,  presumably,  were  produced  by 
some  cause  which  was  itself  only  temporary .*  There  are  strong 

grounds  for  believing  that  they  are  due  to  the  expansion  (under 
diminution  of  external  pressure)  of  gaseous  matter  within  the  body  ; 
which  seeks  to  be  liberated,  and  causes  an  internal  pressure  that 
strongly  affects  the  blood-vessels.  While  equilibrium  was  being 
restored  between  the  internal  and  external  pressure,  the  ‘ indescrib- 
able feeling  of  illness  ’ gradually  disappeared,  and  headache  died 
away ; and  it  may  be  reasonably  expected  that  these  ‘ acute  ’ 
troubles  can  be  escaped  by  taking  pains  to  avoid  abrupt  diminution 
of  pressure.* 

1 During  the  whole  time  we  were  in  Ecuador,  neither  with  ourselves  nor  among 
the  people  who  were  employed,  was  there  anything  observed  of  the  nature  of 
hemorrhage,  vomiting,  or  nausea  (although  among  our  viandes  there  was  something 
that  would  have  strained  the  stomach  of  an  ostrich  [see  pp.  61  and  207]) ; and  it 
thus  appears  that  these  unpleasant  features  are  not  indispensable  accompaniments 
of  life  at  great  elevations. 

2 Or,  on  the  contrary,  suffocation  may  be  expected,  probably  accompanied  by 
hemorrhage,  by  persons  who  submit  themselves  to  a very  rapid  reduction  in  press- 
ure (either  in  balloon,  or  artificially),  if  they  have  previously  been  living  for  some 
length  of  time  with  the  barometer  at  29  to  30  inches. 


CHAP.  XIX. 


TEE  EFFECT  ON  RESPIRATION. 


375 


From  the  ‘ permanent  ’ effects  there  is  no  escape.  The  large 
increase  in  the  rate  of  respiration  and  the  compulsory  breathing 
through  open  mouths  were  caused  by  involuntary  efforts  to  make 
up  for  the  decrease  in  the  density  of  the  air  by  imbibing  a greater 
volume.  It  was  possible,  without  any  great  effort,  at  a pressure  of 
1F750  inches  (19,600  feet),  to  sustain  life,  while  at  rest,  by  increas- 
ing the  volume  of  air  inspired,  and  thus  in  some  measure  to 
compensate  for  the  reduction  in  its  density  (which  was  then  half 
that  of  air  at  the  level  of  the  sea).  But  when  in  movement  it 
became  difficult  to  enlarge  the  breathing  capacity  to  the  extent 
necessary  to  meet  the  further  demand  for  air  which  was  the 
result  of  muscular  exertion  ; 1 and,  notwithstanding  the  increased 
efforts  which  were  put  forth  to  meet  this  demand,  there  was,  in 
all  probability,  a considerable  deficiency  in  the  weight  and  value  of 
the  amount  which  was  imbibed. 

AYhen  the  effects  consequent  upon  experiencing  diminution  in 
atmospheric  pressure  were  first  noticed,  it  was  guessed  that  they 
were  in  some  way  due  to  a peculiarity  in  the  air.  Father  Joseph 
de  Acosta  was  amongst  the  earliest  to  mention  the  subject,  and  in 
Book  III  of  his  Natural  & Moral  History  he  devotes  a Chapter 
to  “ Some  mervellous  effects  of  the  windes,  which  are  in  some 
partes  of  the  Indies,”  giving  first  a few  prefatory  remarks  upon 
sea-sickness,  which  he  says  “it  be  true  that  the  motion  of  the 
sliippe  helpes  much,  in  that  it  moves  more  or  less,  and  like- 
wise the  infections  and  ill  - savours  of  things  in  the  shippe ; 
yet  the  proper  and  naturall  cause  is  the  aire  and  the  vapors 
of  the  sea.  . . It  is  proved  by  many  experiences,  that  the  aire 
of  the  sea  is  the  chiefe  cause  of  this  strange  indisposition  ” ; 
and,  having  settled  to  his  own  satisfaction  that  the  air  of  the 

The  immunity  from  headache  of  Mr.  Perring  and  others  who  accompanied  us 
I consider  was  due  to  their  having  lived  for  a considerable  length  of  time  at  lower 
pressures  than  ourselves. 

1 In  ascending  a mountain,  the  respiration  is  quickened  by  two  causes— (1)  by 
muscular  exertion,  and  (2)  by  diminution  in  pressure.  These  act  independently  of 
each  other. 


376 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


sea  is  the  principal  cause  of  sea  - sickness,  he  goes  on  to  express 
his  belief  that  the  air  at  great  heights  is  the  cause  of  mountain- 
sickness. 

“I  thought  good,”  he  says,  “to  speake  this,  to  shew  a strange  effect, 
which  happens  in  some  partes  of  the  Indies,  where  the  ayre  and  the  wind 
that  rains  makes  men  dazie,  not  lesse,  but  more  than  at  sea.  Some  hold  it 
for  a fable,  others  say  that  it  is  an  addition  : for  my  parte  I will  speak  what  I 
have  tried.  There  is  in  Peru  a high  inountaine  which  they  call  Pariacaca,  and 
having  heard  speake  of  the  alteration  it  bred,  I went  as  well  prepared  as 
I could  . . . but  notwithstanding  all  my  provision,  when  I came  to  mount  the 
stairs,  as  they  call  them,  which  is  the  top  of  this  inountaine,  I was  suddenly 
surprized  with  so  mortall  and  strange  a pang  that  I was  ready  to  fall  from  my 
beast  to  the  ground  : and  although  we  were  many  in  company,  yet  every  one 
made  haste  (without  any  tarrying  for  his  companion)  to  free  himselfe  speedily 
from  this  ill  passage.  Being  then  alone  with  one  Indian,  whom  I intreated 
to  keep  me  on  my  beast,  I was  surprised  with  such  pangs  of  straining  and 
casting  as  I thought  to  cast  vp  my  soul  too  ; for  having  cast  vp  meate, 
fleugme,  and  choller,  both  yellow  and  greene,  in  the  end  I cast  vp  blood, 
with  the  straining  of  my  stomaeke.  To  conclude,  if  this  had  continued,  I 
should  vndoubtedlv  have  died  ; but  this  lasted  not  above  three  or  four 
houres,  that  we  were  come  into  a more  convenient  and  naturall  temperature. 
. . Some  in  the  passage  demaunded  confession,  thinking  verily  to  die ; 
others  got  off  their  beasts,  beeing  overcome  with  casting  . . . and  it  was 
tolde  me  that  some  have  lost  their  lives  there  with  this  accident.  . . But 
commonly  it  dooth  no  important  harme,  onely  this,  paine  and  troublesome 
distaste  while  it  endures  : and  not  onely  the  passage  of  Pariacaca  hath  this 
propertie,  but  also  all  this  ridge  of  the  inountaine,  which  runnes  above  five 
hundred  leagues  long,  and  in  what  place  soever  you  passe,  you  shall  find 
strange  intemperatures,  yet  more  in  some  partes  than  in  other,  and  rather  to 
those  which  mount  from  the  sea  than  from  the  plaines.1  . . And  no  doubt 
but  the  winde  is  the  cause  of  this  intemperature  and  strange  alteration,  or 
the  aire  that  raignes  there.  . . I therefore  perswade  my  selfe,  that  the 
element  of  the  aire  is  there  so  subtile  and  delicate,  as  it  is  not  proportionable 
with  the  breathing  of  man,  which  requires  a more  grosse  and  temperate  aire, 
and  I beleeve  it  is  the  cause  that  doth  so  much  alter  the  stomaeke  and 
trouble  all  the  disposition.” 


i The  reason  of  this  being  that  the  Andean  slopes  on  the  side  of  the  Pacific  are 
usually  steeper  than  those  upon  the  east  of  the  chain.  A more  abrupt  reduction  in 
pressure  is  consequently  experienced. 


cnAP.  xix. 


PROFESSOR  PAUL  BERT. 


377 


At  the  end  of  this  highly  interesting  passage,  by  some  process 
of  reasoning  that  is  not  manifested,  Father  Acosta  shrewdly  guesses 
that  the  air  is  ‘delicate"'  at  great  heights,1  and  “is  not  proportion- 
able  with  the  breathing  of  man,  which  requires  a more  grope  aire.” 
Subsequently,  when  diminution  in  atmospheric  pressure  was 
demonstrated  by  means  of  the  barometer,  men  spoke  of  the  effects 
of  ‘ rarefaction  of  the  air/  though  without  having  a distinct  idea 
how  it  operated  ; and  after  the  discovery  of  oxygen  they  began  to 
lay  all  the  troubles  to  want  of  oxygen,  which  it  seems  to  have  been 
thought  settled  in  the  atmosphere  like  sediment  in  muddy  water. 

Latterly,  Professor  Paul  Bert  endeavoured  to  shew  that  no 
troubles  would  occur  through  diminution  in  pressure  (or  rarefac- 
tion of  the  air)  if  one  imbibed  sufficient  oxygen  ; and  he  carried  on 
a long  series  of  laboratory  experiments  with  the  ultimate  aim 
of  offering  practical  suggestions  for  the  guidance  of  mountain- 
travellers  and  aeronauts.  His  two  final  experiments,  with  the 
conclusions  at  which  he  arrived  from  them,  are  related  in  his  own 
words  at  the  end  of  this  volume. 

It  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  Appendix  J (where  these 
experiments  are  given  at  full  length),  that  Prof.  Bert  observed  the 
rate  of  the  pulse  was  accelerated  when  pressure  was  reduced,  that 
it  fell  again  when  pressure  was  restored,  and  that  he  noticed  it 
was  temporarily  reduced  upon  imbibing  oxygen.  He  considered 
that  in  the  inhalation  of  oxygen  he  had  discovered  a panacea  for 
all  ills  arising  from  diminution  in  pressure,  and  at  the  conclusion 
of  his  book  ( La  Pression  Barometrique ) gave  various  ‘ practical 
hints’  for  the  guidance  of  mountain-travellers  and  aeronauts. 

At  p.  1103  he  suggests  that  the  former  class  might  carry  metal 
cylinders,  weighing  281  lbs.,  holding  330  litres  of  oxygen  com- 
pressed to  one-thirtieth  of  its  ordinary  bulk,  an  amount  which  he 
calculates  would  suffice  for  one  man  for  more  than  an  hour  (at 
what  elevation  or  pressure  is  not  stated)  ; and  at  p.  1061  he 

1 The  Barometer  had  not  been  invented  when  Acosta’s  Natural  <1:  Moral  History 
was  first  printed  (1590). 

3 c 


378 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xrx. 


mentions  twenty  litres  per  minute  as  the  least  quantity  that  a 
party  of  three  persons  would  require  at  an  elevation  approximately 
corresponding  to  the  upper  5000  feet  of  Mount  Everest.  Thus,  if 
a trio  should  encamp  upon  Mount  Everest  at  the  height  of  24,000 
feet,  and  pass  an  entire  day  in  ascending  and  descending  the  final 
5000  feet,  and  a second  night  at  the  camp  (sav  thirty-five  hours  in 
all  at  24,000  feet  or  higher),  the  least  quantity  that  would  be  re- 
quired (according  to  Prof.  Paul  Bert)  would  be  20  litres  x 2100, 
say  200  hogsheads  of  oxygen.  Feeling,  no  doubt,  that  there  might 
be  difficulty  in  transporting  and  installing  this  amount,  he  adds 
(p.  1104)  that  ‘"'it  would  certainly  be  preferable  to  produce  the 
oxygen  on  the  spot,”  and  says  that  “scientific  expeditions  of  long 
duration  to  the  highlands  of  Tibet,  Ladak,  and  the  Pamir  could 
perfectly  well  carry  the  necessary  apparatus.”  The  recent  voyagers 
in  these  regions  do  not,  however,  appear  to  have  adopted  Prof. 
Bert's  suggestions,  and  so  far  as  I am  aware  they  have  not  been 
followed  by  a single  mountain-traveller. 

Amongst  the  practical  hints  offered  by  Prof.  Bert  for  the 
guidance  of  aeronauts,  who  may  aspire  to  reach  great  elevations, 
there  are  to  be  found  the  recommendations  to  make  “ un  repas 
d’aliments  substantiels  ” before  departure  : to  eat  frequently  while 
ascending  ; to  go  slowly  at  great  heights  (that  is  to  say,  to  mount 
gradually)  ; and,  especially,  “in  order  to  be  completely  safe,”  to 
inhale  oxygen — doing  so  continuously  when  higher  than  5 to  G000 
metres  (10,405-19,680  feet).1  “ If  these  precautions,”  he  says,  “ had 
been  taken  with  the  Zenith , there  would  have  been  no  catastrophe 
to  deplore.” 

This  is  a reference  to  the  fate  that  befell  two  aeronauts  (Croce- 
Spinelli  and  Sivel)  who  were  experimented  upon  by  Prof.  Bert  on 
March  9,  1874.  He  shut  them  up  in  his  metal  cylinder  and 
reduced  pressure  to  about  the  equivalent  of  24.000  feet  above  the 
sea.  They  imbibed  oxygen ; noticed  that  the  rate  of  their  pulses 

1 Want  of  space  oblisres  me  to  compress  these  directions.  They  will  be  found 
at  pp.  1094-96  of  La  Pression  Barometrique. 


CHAP.  XIX. 


THEORY. 


379 


fell  temporarily,  and  seemed  fascinated  by  the  experiment.  They 
received,  however,  several  very  emphatic  indications  of  the  danger 
attendant  upon  rapid  diminution  of  pressure,1  which  were  con- 
firmed upon  an  actual  balloon  ascent  made  thirteen  days  later. 
Taking  no  warning  from  these  premonitory  symptoms,  on  April  15, 
1875,  they  left  the  earth  at  11.35  a.m. , and  in  two  hours  rose  to 
the  height  of  about  26,000  feet,  and  for  two  hours  more  hovered 
about  26-28,000  feet.  At  the  end  of  this  time  both  were  found 
suffocated,  with  their  mouths  full  of  blood  ; but  neither  the  time 
nor  the  elevation  at  which  they  died  is  known  exactly,  as  M. 
Tissandier,  the  sole  survivor  of  the  party,  was  rendered  insensible, 
and  thus  was  unable  to  give  a complete  account  of  the  affair. 

Various  suggestions  were  made  as  to  the  immediate  cause  of 
their  death,  and  upon  these  Prof.  Bert  remarks  (p.  1075)  that  none 
deserve  to  be  reproduced,  they  are  “ old  ideas,  already  condemned  ” ; 
and  to  the  end  of  his  volume  (which  was  published  three  years  after 
the  catastrophe — allowing  him  ample  time  to  reconsider  his  posi- 
tion) he  maintains  (1)  that  deficiency  of  oxygen  was  the  cause  of 
the  death  of  these  aeronauts  and  of  all  the  evils  that  are  produced 
by  diminution  in  pressure,  and  (2)  that  artificial  inhalation  of 
oxygen  is  the  sovereign  remedy.  It  does  not  appear  that  he  took 
the  practical  course  of  remaining  in  his  cylinder  for  a length  of 
time,  at  a pi-essure  corresponding  to  that  which  proved  fatal  to  his 
pupils.2  If  he  had  done  this,  and  had  emerged  alive,  he  would 
have  made  out  a strong  case. 

Prof.  Bert  omits  to  state  what  effect  is  produced  on  Respiration 

1 Notwithstanding  the  draughts  of  oxygen,  their  pulses  rose  to  132  and  135. 
They  experienced  a sort  of  drunken  sensation  and  could  neither  see  nor  hear  clearly. 
One  of  them  commenced  to  eat  and  soon  stopped  ; “ and  when  I made,”  says  M. 
Bert,  “a  sign  to  him  to  continue,  he  answered  me  with  a gesture  of  disgust.” 
Upon  their  balloon  ascent  on  Mar.  22,  1874,  they  experienced  strong  pressure  in 
the  head. 

2 Whose  death  seems  to  have  exercised  a deterrent  effect  upon  aeronauts.  There 
has  not  been,  I believe,  any  subsequent  attempt  to  reach  the  elevation  at  which 
they  perished,  and  I have  not  heard  that  any  one,  since  1875,  has  even  soared  so 
high  as  twenty  thousand  feet. 


3S0 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


■when  his  method  is  adopted  ; he  ignores  the  influence  of  Time,  and 
argues  as  if  the  effect  produced  in  a minute  is  similar  to  that 
which  would  be  caused  in  an  hour,  a day,  or  a week  ; and  he  sets 
an  inordinate  value  upon  the  apparent  checking  of  the  rate  of  the 
pulse,  which  in  itself,  apart  from  other  considerations,  is  of  little 
moment.  lie  assumes  that  the  rate  of  the  pulse  is  permanently 
accelerated  while  experiencing  low  pressures,  and  bases  his  recom- 
mendations upon  that  supposition.  From  the  absence  in  his  two 
final  experiments  (the  crown  of  his  work)  of  all  reference  to  the 
effect  of  inhalation  of  oxygen  upon  respiration,  and  there  being  but 
one  solitary  observation  of  the  temperature  of  the  body  (at  the  end 
of  Exp.  25 T),  one  naturally  enquires  whether  the  rate  of  respira- 
tion and  the  temperature  of  the  body  were  observed  ; and,  if  they 
were,  whether  a satisfactory  result  was  noted  ? 

Professor  Bert’s  attention,  presumably,  was  first  directed  to 
acceleration  in  the  circulation  upon  reduction  of  pressure  through 
the  frequent  references  which  had  been  made  to  the  subject  by 
aeronauts  and  mountain-travellers.  De  Saussure  was  amongst  the 
first  to  remark  it  on  land,1  and  Gay-Lussac  and  Biot  in  balloon.2 


1 *•  Mais  de  tous  nos  organes,  celui  est  le  plus  altecte  par  la  rarete  de  l'air,  c'est 
celui  de  la  respiration.  On  sait  que  pour  entreteuir  la  vie,  sur-tout  celle  des  animaux 
a sang  chaud,  il  faut  qu’une  quantity*  determine  d’air  traverse  leurs  poumons  dans 
un  terns  dontie.  Si  done  l'air  qu'ils  respirent  est  le  double  plus  rare,  il  faudra  que 
leurs  inspirations  soient  le  double  plus  frequeutes,  afin  que  la  rarete  soit  compensee 
par  le  volume.  C'est  cette  acceleration  forcee  de  la  respiration  qui  est  la  cause  de  la 
fatigue  et  des  angoisses  que  l'on  eprouve  a ces  grandes  hauteurs.  Car  en  meme  terns 
que  la  respiration  s'accelere,  la  circulation  s’accelere  aussi.  Je  m'en  etois  souvent 
appercu  sur  de  liautes  cimes,  mais  je  voulois  en  faire  une  epreuve  exacte  sur  le 
Mont-Blanc  ; et  pour  que  l’action  du  mouvement  du  voyage  ne  put  pas  se  confondre 
avec  celle  de  la  rarete  de  l'air,  je  ne  fis  mon  epreuve  qu’apres  que  nous  fumes  restes 
tranquilles,  ou  a peu  pres  tranquilles  pendant  4 lieures  sur  la  cime  de  la  montagne. 
Alors  le  pouls  de  Pierre  Balmat  se  trouva  battre  98  pulsations  par  minute;  celui 
de  Tetu,  mon  domestique  112,  et  le  mien  103.  A Chamouni,  egalement  apres  le 
repos,  les  memes,  dans  le  meme  ordre  battirent  49,  60,  72.  Nous  etions  done  tous 
la  dans  un  etat  de  fievre.” — Voyages  dans  les  Alpes,  § 2021,  5 ol.  4.  1796. 

2 In  1804.  in  balloon,  when  no  higher  than  8600  feet,  they  observed  that  their 
respective  pulses  rose  from  62  to  80,  and  from  89  to  111. 


CHAP.  XIX. 


FACTS. 


381 


Aeronauts  never  remain  a sufficiently  long  time  at  considerable 
elevations  to  be  able  to  say  whether  the  acceleration  is  temporary 
or  permanent.  De  Saussure  and  others  seem  to  have  been  under 
the  impression  that  it  always  accompanies  increase  in  the  rate  of 
respiration.  In  the  passage  given  on  p.  380  from  Voyages  dans  les 
Alpes,  he  states  as  a fact  that  “at  the  same  time  the  respiration  is 
accelerated  ” [under  diminution  of  pressure]  “ the  circulation  is 
also  quickened  ” ; and  from  the  general  tenour  of  the  passage  it  is 
evident  he  considered  that  the  joint  increase  in  the  rate  of  the 
respiration  and  circulation  was  continuous,  when  remaining  in  a 
state  of  rest  at  great  elevations,  at  one  constant  pressure. 

This  was  not  our  experience  amongst  the  Great  Andes  of  the 
Equator.  At  the  first,  following  the  general  (and  probably  the 
invariable ) rule  with  those  who  sustain  a considerable  diminution 
in  pressure  in  a comparatively  short  time,  there  was  a large  and 
very  unpleasant  increase  in  the  rate  of  my  pulse,  accompanied  by 
a considerable  rise  in  body  temperature  ; and  (although  they  would 
not  permit  any  observations  to  be  made  on  their  persons)  I do  not 
doubt  that  the  same  occurred  with  Jean- Antoine  and  Louis  C'arrel, 
as  they  spoke  of  strong  feverishness.  But  while  continuing  to  live 
with  the  barometer  standing  at  16 ‘500  inches  the  pulse  slowed 
down  and  ultimately  fell  to  its  normal  rate ; the  temperature  of 
the  body  also  fell  until  it  got  to  its  normal  degree  ; and  the 
subsequent  fluctuations  which  occurred  in  the  rate  of  the  pulse  and 
in  the  temperature  of  the  body,1  even  whilst  sustaining  further 
diminution  of  pressure,  were  only  such  as  could  be  assigned  to 
common  causes.  The  righting  of  our  condition  occurred  in  the 
ordinary  course  of  nature,  without  having  recourse  to  artificial  use 
of  oxygen;2  and  I ask  (1)  If  the  unpleasant  effects  which  were 
experienced  upon  Chimborazo  [gaspings,  feverishness,  intense  head- 
ache, and  an  indescribable  feeling  of  illness  pervading  almost  the 

1 See  Appendix  F. 

2 During  the  whole  journey  I did  not,  personally,  consume  so  much  as  an  ounce 
of  Chlorate  of  Potash. 


382 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


whole  body]  were  directly  due  to  want  of  oxygen,  why  did  they 
not  continue  while  we  remained  at  a pressure  of  10 ‘500  inches  ? 
and  (2)  In  what  way  should  I have  benefited  my  circulation  and 
temperature  (when  both  became  normal)  by  taking  draughts  of 
oxygen  ? 

It  is  clear,  as  regards  the  pressures  [elevations]  we  dealt  with 
(which  it  is  interesting  to  observe  embraced  those  at  which  Prof. 
Bert  urged  continuous  inhalation,  namely,  5 to  6,000  metres  above 
the  sea),  that  the  artificial  use  of  oxygen  was  not  necessary ; and, 
further,  that  the  temporary  increase  in  the  rate  of  the  circulation 
and  in  the  temperature  of  the  body,  and  the  other  conjoined  dis- 
agreeables, could  not  have  been  directly  due  to  rarefaction  of  the  air 
or  want  of  oxygen  (although  they  occurred  under  diminution  of 
pressure),  and  that  they  must  have  been  produced,  as  it  is  sug- 
gested on  p.  374,  by  some  cause  which  was  itself  only  temporary. 

In  a discussion  that  took  place  in  Paris,  at  the  Academie  de 
Medecine,  after  the  death  of  Croce-Spinelli  and  Sivel,  M.  Colin 
remarked  that  the  gas  in  the  human  body  must  needs  have  a 
tendency  to  expand  under  diminution  of  external  pressure.  This 
was  pointed  out  a century  earlier  by  Haller  and  others.  Prof. 
Bert,  however,  refused  to  believe  that  this  expansion  could  produce 
an  important  effect,  although  he  could  not  deny  that  it  occurred. 
During  his  Experiments  256  and  257,  there  were  evidences  that  it 
did  occur,1  and  he  made  the  following  observations  upon  them. 
“ Amongst  other  phenomena  which  persisted,  notwithstanding  the 
inspiration  of  oxygen,  becanse  they  depend  entirely  upon  the  dimi- 
nution in  the  density  of  the  air,  I mention  the  gaseous  evacuations 
. . . respecting  which  neither  aeronauts  nor  mountain-travellers 
have  spoken.”2  They  are,  no  doubt,  caused  by  expansion  of 
internal  gas,  consequent  upon  diminution  in  external  pressure. 

1 Iu  Experiment 256  there  are  the  following  records.  “11.25;  gaz  s’echappant 
par  en  haut  et  par  en  bas.’’  “ 11.31 ; gaz  s’echappent,  et  cependant  le  ventre  reste 
un  peu  gonfle.”  “11.47;  des  gaz  s’echappent  par  la  bouche  et  l’anus.”  “11.48; 
encore  gaz.”  “11.52;  encore  gaz.” 

2 This  has  not  been  due  to  non-familiarity  with  the  ‘phenomena.’ 


CHAP.  XIX. 


MOUNTAIN  SICKNESS. 


383 


Prof.  Bert,  in  mentioning  them,  got  close  an  fond  du  sujet,  and 
then  skipped  away  from  an  unpleasant  topic.  Was  this  because 
the  facts  did  not  agree  with  his  theory  ? He  seemed  to  fail  to 
perceive  that  the  released  gas  was  only  that  which  found  a ready 
outlet,  and  to  take  no  note  of  that  which  remained  in  the  body, 
without  the  possibility  of  immediate  escape. 

There  are  strong  grounds  for  believing  that  the  sudden  dizziness 
and  headaches,  the  slight  hemorrhages,  the  ‘ mortal  pangs  ’ and 
‘ drunken  sensation/  of  which  so  many  have  had  experience  either 
on  land,  in  balloon,  or  when  sustaining  artificial  diminution  in 
pressure,  and  the  insensibility  and  fatal  hemorrhages  which  have 
occurred  in  the  most  extreme  cases,  have  all  been  caused  by 
internal  pressure  ; and  that  the  degree  of  intensity  of  the  effects, 
and  their  earlier  or  later  appearance,  depend  upon  the  extent  of  the 
diminution  in  pressure,  the  rate  at  which  it  is  reduced,  and  the 
length  of  time  it  is  experienced.  An  unlimited  number  of  combina- 
tions can  be  produced  when  to  these  are  added  the  complications 
arising  from  the  effect  on  respiration  of  rarefaction  of  the  air,  and 
differences  in  individual  constitutions. 

The  various  affections  which  have  been  classed  together,  con- 
fused and  confounded,  under  the  single  term  Mountain-sickness, 
are  fundamentally  caused,  as  I see  the  matter,  by  diminution 
in  atmospheric  pressure,  which  operates  in  at  least  two  ways  ; 
namely,  (A),  by  lessening  the  value  of  the  air  that  can  be  inspired 
in  any  given  time,  and  ( B ) by  causing  the  air  or  gas  within  the 
body  to  expand,  and  to  press  upon  the  internal  organs.  The 
results  which  ensue  from  A are  permanent  (i.c.  so  long  as  the 
cause  exists),  and  are  aggravated  the  more  pressure  is  reduced. 
The  effects  produced  by  B may  be  temporary  and  pass  away  when 
equilibrium  has  been  restored  between  the  internal  and  external 
pressure  ; or  they  may  be  fatal,  under  very  large  and  rapid  reduc- 
tion in  pressure.1 

1 Of  nausea  and  vomiting  I have  no  experience.  They  did  not  happen  in  the 
Andes,  and  they  have  never  occurred  either  to  myself,  or  to  men  in  my  employment, 


884 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xix. 


It  follows,  if  the  facts  have  not  been  misinterpreted,  that  the 
evils  coming  under  B will  be  minimized  (in  mountain-travellers) 
by  gradual  ascent,  and  may  even  be  entirely  avoided  by  keeping  a 
constant  watch  over  the  rate  of  the  pulse  and  the  temperature  of 
the  body.  But  from  the  effects  on  respiration  none  can  escape. 
In  every  country,  and  at  all  times,  they  will  impose  limitations 
upon  the  range  of  man  ; and  those  persons  in  the  future,  who, 
either  in  pursuit  of  knowledge  or  in  quest  of  fame,  may  strive  to 
reach  the  loftiest  summits  on  the  earth,  will  find  themselves  con- 
fronted by  augmenting  difficulties  which  they  will  have  to  meet 
with  constantly  diminishing  powers. 

or  in  people  with  whom  we  have  been  casually  associated,  on  any  mountain,  in  any 
part  of  the  world.  I imagine  that  these  unpleasant  features  (though  undoubtedly 
occurring  in  a certain  percentage  of  men  and  other  animals  under  diminution  in 
pressure)  must  be  principally  due  to  peculiarities  of  individual  constitutions,  or  to 
want  of  judgment.  Our  indisposition  to  eat  at  great  elevations  (low  pressures)  has 
been  noticed.  It  is  not  impossible,  if  we  had  done  violence  to  our  inclinations,  that 
we  should  have  paid  a penalty. 


A TROPICAL  DREAM. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

RETURN  TO  GUAYAQUIL — CONCLUSION. 

Although  ovu’  work  amongst  the  Great  Andes  of  the  Equator  was 
completed  upon  arrival  at  Chuquipoquio,  a Public  Duty  still 
remained  to  be  performed.  It  had  been  concluded  from  the  tame- 
ness of  my  attitude  on  the  17th  of  January  [see  p.  89]  that 
travellers  could  be  defrauded  with  impunity,  and  be  kept  prisoners 
without  fear  of  consequences.  In  the  Public  interest,  it  was  desir- 
able to  correct  this  idea.  The  road-measuring  was  a slow  operation, 
and  when  the  people  attached  to  the  Tambo,  out  of  curiosity  came 
to  inspect  us,  they  afforded  a convenient  opportunity  for  a dis- 
course to  them  upon  the  iniquity  of  their  ways  ; and  I emphasized 
my  remarks  in  a manner  which  I trust  left  such  an  abiding  impres- 
sion as  will  render  it  less  likely  in  the  future  that  an  Englishman 
will  be  robbed  in  this  neighbourhood. 

We  departed  from  Riobamba  on  the  8th  of  July,  intending  to 
take  what  is  termed  the  Railway  Route  to  Guayaquil  ; and,  mount- 

3 D 


386 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xx. 


ing  the  slopes  that  enclose  the  basin  on  the  south,  arrived  at  dusk 
at  the  village  of  Xanti  (10,669  feet).  The  next  place  being  a good 
distance  away,  we  stopped  at  the  highest  house  or  hut,  which  was 
occupied  by  some  half-Indians.  In  the  night  there  were  wailings 
and  lamentations,  and  Campana  came  to  ask  if  I would  sell  a 
c indie,  as  the  mother  was  dying,  and  there  was  not  a light  of  any 
sort  to  be  found  in  the  whole  village  ! 

Xext  morning,  five  and  a half  hours  of  hard  going  brought  us 
to  the  village  of  Guamote,  and  here  we  struck  the  southern  con- 
tinuation of  the  Moreno  (or  Quito)  Road.1  At  this  part,  and  until 
we  diverged  from  it  in  the  afternoon  of  July  10,  it  was  mostly  in 
excellent  condition, — a fine,  broad  highway,  more  than  sufficient 
for  the  wants  of  a thickly-populated  district,  though  passing  over 
bleak,  uncultivated  moorland  (paramo),  which  it  would  be  too 
complimentary  to  term  a howling  wilderness.  From  Guamote  to 
the  end  of  this  day’s  journey,  we  neither  met  nor  passed  either 
man  or  beast,  and  the  natural  repulsiveness  of  the  surroundings 
was  heightened  by  skulls  and  skeletons  lying  on  each  side  of  the 
road,  of  unburied  men  who  had  perished  in  one  of  the  revolutionary 
combats.2  At  5 p.m.  we  came  to  a large  (apparently  deserted) 
Hacienda,  called  Galti,  and  a little  farther  south  halted  for  the 
night  at  a hut  (11,772  feet)  about  three  hundred  feet  above  the 
road. 

On  the  10th,  we  travelled  without  seeing  a house  or  person 
until  we  caught  sight  of  the  village  of  Alausi  on  the  other  side  of  a 

1 I could  uot  learn  what  direction  the  road  takes  between  Guamote  and  Chuqui- 
poquio,  or  even  whether  that  section  was  completed.  On  the  Route  Map  it  is  not 
laid  down  to  the  south  of  Guamote,  as  we  moved  too  quickly  to  observe  its  numerous 
changes  of  direction  ; but  it  is  to  be  understood  that  we  travelled  over  the  high  road 
between  Guamote  and  the  place  where  it  was  quitted,  opposite  to  Alausi.  South  of 
Guamote  it  rises  to  a considerable  elevation.  I stopped  at  what  appeared  to  be  the 
highest  point  for  a reading  of  the  mercurial  barometer,  and  found  there  that  it  was 
about  11,362  feet  above  the  sea.  It  descended  upon  Galti,  and  rose  again  to  about 
11.500  feet. 

2 Through  this  tract  of  country  (Sibambe  to  Riobamba)  it  is  proposed  to  carry 
the  Railway  which  is  to  be  a joy  to  holders  of  Ecuadorian  bonds ! 


CHAP.  XX. 


DESCENT  THROUGH  THE  FOREST. 


387 


deep  valley,  and  then  stopped  perplexed,  not  knowing  how  to  get 
to  it,  or  where  to  go.  A casual  man,  who  turned  up  at  the  right 
moment,  said  that  by  breaking  away  to  the  west  we  could  make  a 
short  cut  to  the  Bridge  of  Chimbo  (the  terminus  of  the  Railway). 
We  followed  his  advice,  and,  after  many  windings  through  a wild, 
wooded  country,  found  ourselves  at  dusk  at  the  commencement  of 
the  descent  towards  the  Pacific  ; plunged  down  the  forest-covered 
slopes,  and  at  7 p.m.  were  brought  to  a staud  by  darkness  when 
about  9000  feet  above  the  sea.  Not  a soul  had  been  seen  since 
the  casual  man.  All  of  us  went  to  bed  supperless,  as  the  food  was 
nearly  exhausted.  Off  again  soon  after  sunrise,  we  descended  4400 
feet  without  a break,  and  then  came  to  a diminutive  Hacienda, 
called  Cayandeli,  where  a solitary  man  in  possession  declared  there 
was  nothing  to  eat. 

During  the  last  two  days,  the  route  had  skirted  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Range  of  Chimborazo.  The  slopes  which  we  had  now 
to  descend  were  at  its  extreme  southern  end.  Since  leaving 
Riobamba,  views  had  been  confined  either  to  the  immediate  sur- 
roundings or  to  a few  miles  away,  and  Chimborazo  and  its  allies 
were  invisible.  The  same,  too,  was  the  case  with  the  country  on 
the  east.  We  passed  Sangai  without  seeing  it,  or  any  of  the 
mountains  in  its  vicinity.  On  entering  the  forest,  the  range  of 
vision  became  even  more  circumscribed  by  the  tortuous  bends  of 
the  ever-winding  track.  Sometimes  it  was  ill-marked,  overgrown 
and  readily  lost.1  We  went  astray,  and  at  night  on  the  11th  were 
still  in  the  jungle,  and  retired  to  rest,  supperless,  on  the  top  of  the 
packing-cases. 

Except  for  the  pangs  of  hunger,  and  a growing  apprehension 
that  the  steamer  at  Guayaquil  would  be  missed,  this  descent 
through  the  forest  would  have  been  enjoyable.  In  the  course  of  a 
day,  the  nakedness  of  the  Interior  changed  to  the  luxuriance  of 
the  Tropics  ; the  increasing  warmth  was  grateful ; and  presently 
1 The  descent  commenced  at  about  11,160  feet  above  the  sea,  and  continued 
without  intermission  for  more  than  0000  feet.  We  saw  the  barometer  rise  six  inches 
and  three-quarters  upon  the  11th  of  July. 


388 


Til  A VELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap,  xx 


CHAP.  XX. 


A FRUITFUL  LETTER. 


389 


on  the  morning  of  the  12th,  passed  through  forest-trees  rising 
150  feet  high,  mast-like,  without  a branch,  laden  with  a parasitic 
growth.  Then  the  sky  began  to  be  seen,  a vista  opened  out — we 
had  arrived  at  the  Valley  of  the  Chimbo. 

The  Bridge  was  a wooden  structure,  spanning  the  River  just 
before  it  turned  abruptly  to  the  west.  The  Railway  was  hidden 
away  in  jungle,  and  had  to  be  discovered.  There  was  no  station  or 
train  ; nor  house  or  hut  ; nor  person  or  means  of  procuring  infor- 
mation. The  right  bank  of  the  river  formed  the  Terminus.  The 
line  ran  up  to  the  edge  of  the  stream,  without  stops  to  prevent  the 
train  running  into  the  water,  and  looked  as  if  it  had  been  cut  in 
half  by  the  torrent.  The  only  indication  of  civilization  was  a 
contractor’s  shed,  mounted  on  wheels.1  Campaua  went  down  the 
rails  in  search  of  life,  and  learnt  that  a train  might  arrive  to-day, 
or  perhaps  it  would  come  manana.  We  waited  in  hungry  expecta- 
tion (paying  off  the  arrieros  in  the  meanwhile),  and  about  twelve 
o’clock  the  train  hove  in  sight,  bringing  three  persons  and  nothing 
more. 

Shortly  before  leaving  Quito,  General  Veintemilla  spontane- 
ously favoured  me  with  a letter  to  the  Railway  authorities,  direct- 
ing them  to  afford  every  attention,  assistance,  etcetera.  This  letter 
was  shewn  to  the  persons  in  charge  of  the  train,  and  they  were 
informed  that  we  were  famished,  and  ready  to  purchase  any  food 
that  could  be  spared.  •The  President’s  letter  bore  fruit.  The 
Conductor  brought  out  two  small  pine-apples,2  and  presented  them 
with  many  polite  phrases, — the  pine-apples  were  mine  ; he  himself 
and  all  that  he  had  was  mine,  and  so  forth.  I tried  to  buy,  but  he 
would  not  hear  of  it  ; and,  as  there  was  no  time  to  waste,  the 

1 On  this  journey  we  were  victims  of  the  pleasantry  of  a person  at  Riobamba, 
who  informed  us  that  it  would  take  two  days  to  get  to  the  Bridge  of  Chimbo,  where 
there  was  a capital  hotel ; and  that  we  should  find  plenty  of  food  on  the  way.  Seeing 
no  reason  to  doubt  the  information,  surplus  provisions  were  cleared  out  at  Riobamba, 
and  we  started  with  only  a day’s  supply.  Potatoes  were  obtained  at  Nauti,  Guamote 
and  Galti,  Cut  after  the  latter  place  nothing  whatever  could  be  procured. 

2 Local  products,  worth  perhaps  ten  cents  apiece. 


390 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  THE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xx. 


pine-apples  were  cut  up  forthwith  into  five  portions — the  donor 
consuming  a share. 

The  train  ran  as  far  as  the  first  station  smoothly,  and  there  the 
engine  went  off  the  track.  While  affairs  were  being  rectified,  I 
sent  into  the  village,  and  having  acquired  the  materials  for  a good, 
square  meal,  entertained  the  Conductor  as  my  guest.  “ Now,” 
thought  I,  “ that  pine-apple  account  is  balanced.” 

At  Yaguachi,  after  again  expressing  my  obligations,  I was 
about  to  leave,  when  the  Conductor  put  his  hand  on  my  shoulder 
and  stopped  me.  “ The  fares  ! ” General  Yeintemilla’s  letter  was 
comprehensive,  and  might  have  covered  anything  from  special 
trains  downwards,  and  I remarked  that  it  seemed  to  imply  free 
transit.  “ No,”  was  the  reply,  made  with  admirable  readiness,  “ it 
embraces  everything  except  that.”  “ How  much  ?”  “ Three  pesos 

and  a half  apiece.”  I paid  the  amount  like  a lamb,  and  was  going 
off,  when  the  Conductor  again  stopped  me.  “ There  is  the  bag- 
gage.” “ How  much  ?”  I paid  his  charge,  but  there  still  seemed 
to  be  something  on  his  mind.  “ Is  there  anything  else  ?”  “ Yes, 

Senor  ; your  Excellency  has  forgotten  to  pay  for  the  pine-apples  /”  1 

1 The  Ecuadorian  Railway  was  commenced  under  the  auspices  of  the  Govern- 
ment. It  is  now  in  the  hands  of  a Company,  and  its  construction,  I am  informed, 
is  being  pushed  on  actively.  In  1888,  the  section  was  opened  from  Duran  (opposite 
to  Guayaquil)  to  Yaguachi,  and  it  is  said  that  several  kilometres  are  finished  beyond 
the  Bridge  of  Chimbo  (now  called  Chimbo).  From  this  latter  point  to  Sibambe  is 
only  15  miles  in  a direct  line,  but  the  distance  by  the  railroad  (as  laid  out)  will  be 
50  miles,  and  upon  this  section  there  will  be  a rise  of  7727  feet. 

I have  no  information  as  to  the  direction  in  which  it  is  proposed  to  carry  this 
line  (after  passing  Sibambe)  beyond  that  which  is  furnished  in  the  Report  from  Mr. 
Alfred  St.  John  (Quito,  July  14,  1891),  where  it  is  stated  that  “ a French  syndicate 
has  obtained  a concession  from  the  Equatorian  Congress  for  the  purpose  of  carrying 
the  railway  from  Chimbo  to  Riobamba,  and  eventually  to  Quito,  but  thus  far  the 
French  financiers  have  been  unable  to  raise  the  necessary  funds.  Should  a satis- 
factory arrangement  be  made  by  the  Equatorian  Government  with  the  bondholders 
for  the  settlement  of  the  foreign  debt,  British  capitalists  might  inquire  into  the 
feasibility  and  probable  profitableness  of  such  an  undertaking,  but  before  embarking 
into  it  very  sound  guarantees  should  be  exacted.” 

The  line  has  not  yet  arrived  at  Sibambe  ; and,  should  it  ever  do  so,  it  will  come 


SELECTIONS  FROM  THE  AUTHOR'S  BEDROOM  COLLECTION  AT  GUAYAQUIL. 


CHAP.  XX. 


TROPICAL  DREAMS. 


391 


We  went  by  steam-launch  from  Yaguachi  to  Guayaquil  and 
there  separated, — Campana  returning  to  Quito  via  Bodegas,  and 
the  Carrels  going  by  steamer  to  Panama.  During  the  next  fort- 
night, I lived  principally  in  the  hotel  called  The  Ninth  of  October  ; 
where,  although  in  a certain  sense  solitary,  I was  never  without 
company.  The  wonderful  exuberance  of  life  chased  away  drowsi- 
ness, and,  when  sleep  came,  one’s  very  dreams  were  tropical. 
Droves  of  mice  galloped  about  at  night,  and  swarms  of  minute 
ants  pervaded  everything.  The  harsh  gnawings  of  voracious  rats 
were  subdued  by  the  softer  music  of  the  tender  mosquito.  These, 
the  indigenous  inhabitants,  were  supplemented  by  a large  float- 
ing population  ; and,  in  all,  I collected  fifty  species  of  vermin  in  a 
single  room.  A few  selections  are  given  in  the  accompanying 
plate  from  ‘my  bedfellows  at  Guayaquil.’1 

Eleven  years  have  elapsed  since  our  return  to  Europe.  Due 
regard  to  my  ordinary  avocations,  and  various  inevitable  delays 

to  the  edge  of  a tract  of  country  without  traffic  or  population.  The  Bridge  of  Chimbo 
is  1132  and  Sibambe  is  8859  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Throughout  the  course 
of  the  fifty  miles  of  line  between  these  two  places  there  will  therefore  be  an  average 
gradient  of  1 in  34 ; but,  as  it  will  be  impossible  to  construct  the  whole  with  one 
uniform  grade,  some  parts  will  necessarily  be  steeper.  Those  who  propose  to  lay 
out  money  on  this  line  might  enquire  (I  adopt  the  words  of  Mr.  St.  John)  into  “the 
feasibility  and  probable  profitableness  ” of  working  a line  with  an  average  gradient 
of  1 in  34  during  the  occurrence  of  torrential  tropical  rain,  and  into  the  effect  of 
swiftly  running  water  on  loose  soil. 

From  this  interesting  though  brief  Report  I find  that  [in  1891]  the  trade  with  the 
interior  is  conducted  in  just  the  same  manner  as  in  1880.  “Goods,”  it  is  said,  “ are 
carried  on  mules,  horses,  and  donkeys.  Very  heavy  loads  are  carried  by  gangs  of 
Indians.  All  the  merchandize  transported  to  and  from  the  northern  and  central 
provinces  of  the  Andean  region  passes  through  Babahoyo  and  Chimbo,  but  mostly 
through  the  former  place.  . . The  railway  is  little  used  for  the  conveyance  of  goods 
for  the  highlands,  as  but  few  animals  can  be  procured  at  Chimbo,  the  present 
terminus  of  the  line.” 

1 Coleoptek  i (2,  3,  7,  15,  18-24,  27,  28,  35).  Orthoptera  (16,  25,  26,  32,  33). 
IIymenoptera  (1,  8-10,  14,  34).  Hemiptera  (4,  6,  12,  31).  Diptera  (11). 
Scorpions  and  Spiders  (5,  13,  17,  29,  30).  These  are  given  upon  the  scale  of 
nature.  The  larger  species  have  been  omitted  on  account  of  their  size,  and  the 
smallest  ones  from  the  difficult}’  of  representing  them. 


392 


TRAVELS  AMONGST  TEE  GREAT  ANDES,  chap.  xx. 


have  prevented  this  volume  from  appearing  earlier ; and  I much 
regret  that  its  publication  comes  too  late  to  benefit  my  right-hand 
man  and  trusted  assistant,  Jean-Antoine  Carrel.  In  the  higher 
regions,  we  were  at  constant  war  with  the  elements  ; and,  in  com- 
parison with  what  he  and  his  cousin  endured,  hard-labour  on  a 
treadmill  would  have  been  pleasurable,  and  rest  in  a casual  ward 
would  have  been  luxury.  They  derived  no  advantage  from  the 
journey  except  their  hard-earned  pay,  and  I had  hoped  that  this 
relation  of  it  might  have  procured  for  them  some  recognition  of 
their  indefatigable  industry  in  the  service  of  science.  Men  of 
their  class  are  indispensable  to  a worker  in  elevated  regions.  They 
have  been  so  in  the  past,  and  they  will  be  in  the  future  ; and,  if  it 
cannot  be  done  as  an  act  of  justice,  upon  the  lower  ground  of 
policy  it  would  be  expedient  sometimes  to  acknowledge  their 
exceptional,  unrewarded  services.1 

Xo  commiseration  need  be  entertained  for  myself.  The  enter- 
prize  was  my  own  seeking,  and  a traveller  should  be  prepared  to 
take  the  sours  with  the  sweets.  More  than  twenty  years  have 
passed  since  I drew  out  the  plan  of  a journey  amongst  the  Great 
Andes  of  the  Equator.  Engrossed  by  my  work,  the  time  has  fled  ; 
and  now  that  the  toil  is  over  the  labour  is  forgotten, — an  instant 
bridges  the  interval  ; and  it  seems  less  like  a project  which  has 
been  accomplished  than  a Dream  that  has  yet  to  be  realized. 

1 Through  the  sudden  death  of  Jean-Antoine  Carrel  in  1890,  some  of  the 
members  of  his  family  were  left  in  straitened  circumstances.  Upon  this  being 
brought  to  the  notice  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  by  Mr.  Douglas  IV.  Fresh- 
field,  the  Council  granted  the  sum  of  £21  towards  a Fund  which  was  being  raised 
by  the  Daily  Graphic  for  the  relief  of  those  who  were  in  need  ; and  enhanced  the 
value  of  the  donation  by  a letter,  from  which  the  following  paragraph  is  extracted. 
“ The  Council  do  not,  as  a rule,  consider  it.  within  their  province  to  contribute  to 
Funds  of  this  nature.  But  they  have  resolved  to  make  an  exception  in  the  present 
case  in  order  emphatically  to  mark  their  appreciation  of  the  high  services  rendered 
to  geographical  science  by  the  late  J.-A.  Carrel.  . . by  transporting  delicate  instru- 
ments to  great  heights  with  such  care  that  on  your  return  to  England  they  proved 
to  have  suffered  no  injury  whatever.” 


APPENDIX 


appendix.  ALTITUDES  DETERMINED  IN  ECUADOR. 


395 


A.— ALTITUDES  DETERMINED  IN  ECUADOR. 


The  heights  entered  in  the  tables  at  pp.  399-401,  have  been  calculated  1 from 
observations  of  Mercurial  Barometers,  unless  the  contrary  is  pointed  out. 
Three  mercurials  were  taken  to  Ecuador,  and  were  made  for  the  journey 
by  Mr.  J.  J.  Hicks,  of  Ilatton  Garden,  London.  Two  of  these  (marked  No. 
550  and  No.  558)  were  Mountain  Barometers  on  Fortin’s  principle,  and  were 
intended  for  use  in  the  interior,  No.  550  being  graduated  from  32-5  to  10 
inches,  and  No.  558  from  32'5  to  12  inches.  The  third  barometer  (No. 
554)  of  the  Kew  pattern,  was  intended  for  employment  at  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  was  graduated  from  32  to  27  inches.  All  three  read  to  zhu  of  an 
inch  (0'002). 

After  having  been  under  examination  by  myself  for  some  time,  they  were 
sent  to  Kew  Observatory  for  verification,  and  the  certificates  which  were 
given  stated  that  the  error  of  No.  550  was  + 0'004,  of  No.  558  — 0’005,  and 
that  No.  554  was  free  from  error.  These  barometers  remained  in  my  hands 
under  constant  examination  and  comparison  until  our  departure. 

We  arrived  at  Guayaquil  on  December  9th,  1879,  and  upon  the  10th, 
11th,  and  12th  I took  two  readings  daily  of  the  three  mercurials  for  com- 
parison against  each  other.  The  mean  of  the  greatest  differences  between  the 
three  instruments  on  these  six  occasions  amounted  to  one-hundredth  of  an 
inch  (0‘010). 

Mr.  George  Chambers,  British  Consul  at  Guayaquil,  very  kindly  volun- 
teered to  read  No.  554  during  our  absence  in  the  interior  ; and  he  did  so  at 
11  a.m.  and  at  G p.m.,  from  December  1879  to  July  1880.2  These  hours 
were  considered  by  us  to  be  the  most  likely  ones  at  which  we  should  be  able 
to  observe  simultaneously. 

Nos.  550  and  558  travelled  in  company  as  far  as  the  Third  Camp  on 
Chimborazo  ; but  after  that  time,  as  a general  rule,  I took  No.  558  alone  to 
the  greater  heights,  and  left  the  other  below,  in  reserve.  No.  558  accom- 
panied us  everywhere,  and  consequently  travelled  more  than  No.  550,  and 
the  latter  more  than  No.  554  (left  at  Guayaquil). 

During  our  stay  in  the  interior  I compared  the  two  mercurials  against 
each  other  upon  all  convenient  occasions,  and  perceived  a slight  increase  in 
the  difference  of  their  readings. 

Upon  return  to  Guayaquil,  the  increase  was  found  to  amount  to  0 003 
of  an  inch,  having  been  O'OOG  at  the  start,  and  0'009  on  return.  These 
two  barometers  were  also  compared  (upon  return  to  Guayaquil)  against  No. 


1 By  Mr.  William  Ellis,  F.R.  A.S.,  of  Greenwich  Observatory 

3 Mr.  Chambers  also  read  Aneroid  No.  580  (which  was  left  with  him  in  case  of  acci- 
dent to  the  mercurial  barometer)  throughout  the  same  period. 


306 


ALTITUDES  DETERMINED  IN  ECUADOR,  appendix. 


554  upon  seventeen  occasions,  and  the  mean  of  the  extreme  differences 
between  the  three  instruments  was  now  found  to  amount  to  0-022  of  an 
inch.  From  comparison  of  the  readings  as  a whole,  I concluded  that  No.  554 
had  taken  in  some  air,  but  I was  unable  to  determine  which  of  the  other  two 
was  most  in  error. 

It  seemed  desirable,  upon  return  to  London,  to  have  all  three  baro- 
meters verified  by  reference  to  some  acknowledged  standard  other  than  Kew  ; 
and  by  the  kind  permission  of  Mr.  Robert  II.  Scott,  F.R.S.,  they  were  com- 
pared, in  September  1880,  against  the  standard  of  the  Meteorological  Office. 
The  certificates  given  by  Mr.  Straehan  1 stated  that  at  30  inches  the  error  of 
No.  550  was  + 0‘017,  of  No.  554  + 0'030,  and  of  No.  558  — 0’004  of  an 
inch.  Hence  it  appeared  that,  since  the  verification  at  Kew,  No.  554  had 
acquired  an  error  of  0'030  of  an  inch,  that  No.  550  had  increased  its  error  by 
0'013  of  an  inch,  and  that  No.  558  had  decreased  its  error  by  0 001  of  an 
inch.  But  as  one  can  read  on  the  verniers  of  these  barometers  only  to 
of  an  inch,  the  certificate  for  No.  558  really  amounted  to  saying  that  there 
was  no  alteration  in  the  error  ; and  this  was  the  more  satisfactory  inasmuch 
as  No.  558  was  the  barometer  which  had  travelled  everywhere,  which  had 
been  employed  upon  all  the  summits,  and  against  which  the  comparisons  had 
been  made  that  are  recorded  in  the  subsequent  sections  of  this  appendix. 
My  indefatigable  assistant,  Jean-Antoine  Carrel,  carried  this  instrument 
throughout  the  entire  journey  in  the  interior ; and  to  have  preserved  it 
intact,  without  alteration  of  error,  whilst  executing  the  severe  labour  incident 
upon  our  ascents,  is,  I believe,  an  unprecedented  performance.2  I give  here- 
with reduced  facsimiles  of  the  certificate  of  Kew  Observatory  and  of  the 
Meteorological  Office  relating  to  No.  558. 

The  altitudes  which  have  been  deduced  by  Mr.  Ellis  from  my  obser- 
vations of  mercurial  barometer  have  been  calculated  by  Guyot’s  Tables 
( Smithsonian  Meteorological  and  Physical  Tables)  ; and,  as  he  has  used  the 
corresponding  observations  made  by  Mr.  Chambers  at  Guayaquil,  they  gener- 
ally differ  to  some  extent  from  the  results  of  my  rough  computations  on  the 
spot,  where  the  ‘ corresponding  observations  ’ were  unknown  to  me. 

The  determinations  which  are  most  deserving  of  confidence  are  those 
which  are  obtained  from  the  means  of  a number  of  observations,  and  those 
which  are  least  reliable  are  naturally  those  which  depend  upon  one  observa- 
tion only.  In  several  instances,  the  exceptionally  high  temperature  which 
was  observed  at  great  elevations  has  caused  me  some  perplexity.  The  most 
extreme  case  was  upon  the  summit  of  Antisana.  At  this  great  elevation, 
surrounded  by  snow  and  ice  in  every  direction  for  several  miles,  the  tempera^ 
ture  fluctuated  during  our  stay  from  44°  to  60°  Faht.,  though  the  sun  was  con- 


1 Who  was  neither  acquainted  with  my  recent  comparisons  nor  with  the  certificates 
previously  given  at  Kew. 

2 The  manner  of  packing,  transporting,  and  suspending  the  two  barometers  which 
were  used  in  the  field  has  been  already  mentioned.  It  may  be  added  here  that  through- 
out the  whole  time  they  were  employed,  whilst  being  moved  from  one  place  to  another, 
they  were  invariably  carried  reversed,  i.e.  with  cisterns  uppermost.  Before  they  were 
reversed,  and  packed  in  their  cases,  the  mercury  was  driven  to  the  tops  of  the  tubes  by 
means  of  the  cistern  screws ; and,  after  reversal,  the  cistern  screws  were  turned  back 
about  half  a turn,  to  allow  a little  play  to  the  mercury. 


appendix.  ALTITUDES  DETERMINED  IN  ECUADOR. 


397 


Bar  Form  B. 

KEW  OBSERVATORY.  — Certificate  of  Examination. 


Barometer  by 

$4.  u*. 


Compared  with  the  Standard  Barometer  of  the  lie w Observatory. 
CORRECTION  (including  capillary  action)  = 

Scale  of  inches  examined  and  found 

CORRECTIONS  TO  ATTACHED  THERMOMETER.  NO.  6o/gsr /c.o. 


At  32° 

At  42° 

At  52° 

At  62°  At  72° 

At  82° 

At  92° 

! 9 

-0-0 

+0-  Z- 

\0'  2-  ^+0-  / 

| 

-VO'/ 

-VO'/ 

Note. — I. — When  the  sign  of  the  Correction  is  + , the  quantity  is  to  be  added  to 
the  observed  scale  reading,  and  when  — to  be  subtracted  from  it. 

II. — Mercurial  Thermometers  are  liable,  through  age,  to  read  too  high ; 
the  Thermometer  ought,  therefore,  at  some  future  date,  to  be  again  tested  at  the 
melting  point  of  ice,  and  if  its  reading  at  that  point  be  found  different  from 
the  one  now  given,  an  appropriate  correction  should  bo  applied  to  all  the 
above  points. 


Kew  Observatory, 


Superintendent. 


IE  250-1 -7S. 


Z T-4?i*tsz  i X-r<-  . A 


CORRECTIONS  to 

SCALE  READINGS  of^BAROMETER. 

by 

Jf-rlh 

SIT# 

at  29-5 

at  3(H) 

at  30 '5  | attd  therr- 

COt+- 

+ O-rt— 

"When  the  sign  of  the  correction  is  +,  the  quantity  is  to  he  added  to  the  observed  reading;  and  when  ■ 
to  be  subtracted  from  it.  The  corrections  given  above  include  those  for  Index- error,  Capacity,  and  Capillarity. 

Meteorological  Ohice.  'xAe/o  1SS£> 


398 


ALTITUDES  DETERMINED  IN  ECUADOR,  appendix. 


eealed  during  the  whole  time,  and  we  were  more  or  less  in  a cloud.  At  the 
Hacienda  of  Antisana,  which  is  surrounded  by  extensive  grassy  slopes,  and  is 
about  6000  feet  below  the  summit,  during  our  three  days’  stay,  I noted  no 
higher  temperature  than  49°  Faht.  In  the  calculations  for  the  height  of 
Antisana  the  observed,  air  temperature,  namely  53°  Faht.,  has  been  employed  ; 
and  in  almost  all  other  cases  the  observed  temperatures  have  been  employed, 
and  have  not  been  assumed.  Yet  I cannot  but  feel  that  a closer  approxi- 
mation to  the  truth  might  have  been  obtained  (especially  in  the  case  of 
Antisana)  if  assumed  (and  very  much  lower)  air  temperatures  had  sometimes 
been  used. 1 

My  immediate  predecessors  in  Ecuador,  Messrs.  Reiss  and  Stiibel,  printed 
a list  at  Quito  in  1871  of  many  hundreds  of  altitudes  which  had  been  deter- 
mined by  them  by  mercurial  barometer.2  There  is  a fair  agreement  between 
their  altitudes  and  my  own,  and  generally  a close  accordance  in  cases  where 
the  determinations  are  from  the  mean  of  a number  of  observations  by 
each  observer.  Amongst  towns,  villages,  and  farms,  the  following  may  be 
quoted : — 


Whymper. 

Reiss  & Stubel. 

Quito  .... 

9,343  feet. 

9,350  feet. 

Latacunga  . 

9,141  „ 

9,190  „ 

Machachi 

9,839  ,, 

9,629  „ 

Ambato 

8,60(5  „ 

8,556  „ 

Riobamba 

9,039  „ 

9,180  „ 

Cotocachi 

7,970  „ 

8,048  ,, 

Guaranda 

8,894  „ 

8,753  „ 

Penipe 

8.100  „ 

8,104  „ 

Cayambe 

9,323  „ 

9,357  „ 

Mocha 

10,708  ,, 

10,774  „ 

Ilac.  Antisana 

13,30(5  ., 

13,370  „ 

,,  Pedregal 

11,629  „ 

11,585  ,, 

,,  Candelaria  . 

9,400  „ 

9,491  ,, 

,,  Guachala 

9,217  „ 

9,190  ,, 

La  Dormida,  Cayambe . 

11,805  „ 

11,749  „ 

Pass  of  Abraspungo 

14,480  „ 

14,410  „ 

1 In  Nalujt.  February  5,  1880.  it  is  said,  on  the  authority  of  Professor  Plantamour, 
“it  happens  every  year  that  the  temperature  on  the  St.  Bernard,  during  several  hours, 

or  even  during  several  days,  of  December,  is  higher  than  that  of  Geneva.  During 

December  1879,  this  anomaly  lasted  for  a longer  period  of  time  than  usual ; the  average 
temperature  of  December  on  the  St.  Bernard  (2070  metres  above  Geneva)  was  8° ’4  C. 

higher  than  that  at  Geneva.  . . . Professor  Plantamour  observes  how  difficult  it  is  in 

such  cases  to  determine  the  mean  temperature  of  the  stratum  of  air  between  the  two 
stations,  and  how  great  the  error  of  the  barometrical  levelling  and  of  the  reduction  of 
the  observed  pressure  to  the  sea-level  would  be  if  we  applied  the  barometrical  formula  to 
such  cases.” 

a This  list,  which  will  be  invaluable  to  future  travellers  in  Ecuador,  is  more  likely 
to  be  procured  at  Dresden  or  Berlin  than  in  Quito. 


appendix.  ALTITUDES  DETERMINED  IN  ECUADOR.  399 


No. 

Date. 

Place  of  Observation. 

Altitude. 

No.  of 
Observa- 
tions. 

1. 

Dec.  16.  1879 

Munapamba  .... 

1.337 

feet 

2 

2. 

„ 16-17,  „ 

Tambo  Loma  .... 

6,700 

J » 

* 

3. 

„ 17,  „ 

Tambo  Gobierno 

10,417 

1 > 

2 

4. 

„ 18-25,  „ 

Guaranda,  level  of  Plaza  . 

8,894 

14 

5. 

,,  26-7,  ,, 

Chimborazo,  First  Camp 

14,375 

y y 

2 

6. 

„ 28-30,  „ 

Do.  Second  do. 

16,664 

4 

7. 

Jan.  2-3,  1880 

Do.  Third  do. 

17,285 

y * 

3 

8. 

„ 4,  „ 

Do.  Summit  (see  ch.  xix) 

20,545 

J > 

1 

. 9. 

3,  6,  ,. 

Do.,  foot  of  Southern  Walls 

18,528 

J > 

2 

10. 

„ 14-15,  ,, 

Tambo  of  Chuquipoquio  . 

11,704 

f f 

4 

11. 

,,  18-22,  ,, 

Ambato.  level  of  Plaza 

8,606 

f f 

10 

12. 

„ 25,  „ 

Latacunga,  do.  do. 

9,141 

> 1 

2 

13. 

Summit  of  Tiupullo  ridge 

11,559 

> J 

3 

14. 

\ Jan.,  Feb.,  1 
( and  J une  ( 

Machachi,  level  of  high  road 

9,839 

1 J 

36 

15. 

Feb.  2,  ,, 

Corazon.  highest  reached  W.  side 

15,131 

> J 

1 

10. 

,,  ,, 

Do.  Summit 

15,871 

1 y 

1 

17. 

„ 8,  10,  „ 

Hacienda  de  la  Rosario 

10,356 

5 ? 

4 

18. 

9,  „ 

Illiniza,  Camp  on  S.  side  . 

15,207 

i y 

1 

19. 

>>  ,,  ,, 

Do.  Highest  reached  S.  side 

17,023 

i * 

1 

20. 

„ 14.  „ 

Hacienda  of  Pedregal 

11.629 

y y 

2 

21. 

„ 15,  „ 

Cotopaxi,  foot  of  Yanasache  lava 

13,455 

y y 

2 

22. 

„ io,  „ 

Do.  First  Camp 

15,139 

y y 

i 

23. 

„ 18,  19,  „ 

Do.  Second  do. 

19.500 

y y 

* 

24. 

,,  ,,  ,, 

Do.  Summit  . 

19,613 

y y 

5 

25. 

j Mar.,  May,  ) 
( and  June  f 

Quito,  level  of  chief  Plaza 

9,343 

y y 

22 

26. 

Mar.  19,  ,, 

Do.  The  Panecillo 

2,985 

yy 

* 

* From  observations  of  Aneroid  Barometers. 


400 


ALTITUDES  DETERMINED  IN  ECUADOR,  appendix. 


No. 

Date. 

Place  of  Observation. 

Altitude. 

No.  of 
Observa- 
tions. 

27. 

Mar.  5, 

1880  Hacienda  of  Antisanilla  . 

12,342 

feet 

1 

28. 

“ 6-9, 

,,  Do.  Antisana 

13,306 

6 

29. 

4, 

,,  Antisana,  highest  point  attained 

17,623 

1 

30. 

,,  Do.  foot  of  glacier,  W.  side 

15,295 

1 

31. 

„ 9-10, 

,,  Do.  Camp  on  . 

15,984 

3» 

2 

32. 

„ io, 

,,  Do.  Summit  . 

19,335 

2 

33. 

„ 22, 

,,  Pichincha,  First  Camp 

14,007 

i 

34. 

,,  22-3, 

,,  Do.  Second  do. 

14,992 

• 

2 

35. 

„ 23, 

,,  Do.  Summit 

15,918 

i 

36. 

„ 27, 

,,  Quebrada  of  Guallabamba  (top) 

9,306 

i 

37. 

33  33 

,,  , Do.  do.  (bottom) 

6,472 

i 

38. 

,,  Village  of  Guallabamba 

7,133 

3 3 

i 

39. 

,,  28-9, 

„ Hacienda  of  Guachala 

9,217 

2 

40. 

„ 30, 

,,  Do.  Chuarpongo  . 

9,665 

i 

41. 

Apr.  2-5, 

,,  Cay  am  be,  Camp  on  . 

14,762 

4 

42. 

„ 3, 

,,  Do.  Pointe  Jarrin 

16,164 

.. 

1 

43. 

„ 4, 

,,  Do.  Summit  . 

19,186 

3 3 

2 

44. 

„ 8, 

,,  Do.  La  Dormula 

11,805 

3 3 

i 

45. 

„ 12, 

,,  Sara-urcu,  Camp  on 

13, 754 

i 

46. 

„ 17, 

,,  i Do.  Summit  . 

15,502 

i 

47. 

„ 20, 

,,  Village  of  Cayambe  . 

9,323 

„ 

i 

48. 

„ 22, 

,,  | Hacienda  of  Ocampo 

8,192 

i 

49. 

,,  ,, 

,,  j Village  of  Cotocachi 

7,970 

„ 

i 

50. 

„ 24, 

,,  j Cotocachi,  Camp  on 

14,490 

3 3 

i 

51. 

3 3 3 3 

,,  Do.  Summit  . 

16,301 

1 3 

i 

52. 

„ 25, 

,,  Do.  Hut  called  Iltaqui 

10,049 

” 

i 

appendix.  ALTITUDES  DETERMINED  IN  ECUADOR. 


401 


No. 

Date. 

Place  of  Observation. 

Altitude. 

No.  of 
Observa- 
tions. 

53. 

June 

8, 

1880 

Uliniza,  Camp  on  N.  side 

15,446 

feet 

1 

54. 

,, 

9, 

Do.  Highest  reached  N.  side 

16,922 

9 9 

1 

55. 

,, 

14, 

9 9 

Village  of  Mocha 

10,708 

9 9 

2 

56. 

» 

» 

( 

” ( 

Highest  point  of  the  Paramo  } 
between  Mocha  and  Riobamba  ( 

11,879 

9 9 

1 

57. 

June-July 

Riobamba  .... 

9,039 

,, 

12 

58. 

June 

16, 

Village  of  Penipe 

8,100 

9 9 

1 

59. 

,, 

, 

Hacienda  of  Candelaria 

9,400 

9 9 

1 

60. 

„ r 

’-18, 

.. 

Camp  in  Valley  of  Collanes 

12,540 

9 9 

4 

61. 

>> 

20, 

9 9 

Do.  Valley  of  Naranjal 

13,053 

9 9 

2 

62. 

28, 

9 9 

Carihuairazo,  Camp  on 

13,377 

5 

63. 

,, 

29, 

Do.  Summit  of  W.  peak 

16,515 

9 9 

2 

64. 

July 

1, 

Pass  of  Abraspungo  . 

14,480 

,, 

1 

65. 

>> 

,, 

9 9 

Chimborazo,  Fourth  Camp 

14,359 

99 

1 

66. 

,, 

2, 

9 9 

Do.  Fifth  do.  . 

15,811 

9 9 

2 

67. 

,, 

3, 

Do.  Summit  (seech,  xix) 

20,475 

2 

68. 

,, 

Do.  Halt  for  snow-line 

16,703 

,, 

1 

69. 

,, 

5, 

Do.  Sixth  Camp  . 

13,353 

” 

1 

70. 

,, 

9, 

Village  of  Nanti 

10,669 

1 

71. 

» 

,, 

Road  between  Guamote  and  Galti 

11,362 

,, 

1 

72. 

10, 

Camp  above  Hacienda  of  Galti  . 

11,772 

f f 

1 

73. 

V 

- 

j 

” t 

Commencement  of  the  descent  ) 
towards  the  Pacific  . \ 

11,160 

.. 

* 

74. 

>> 

Camp  in  forest 

9,000 

,, 

* 

75. 

>. 

11, 

>. 

Hacienda  of  Cayandeli 

4.600 

.. 

* 

’> 

» 

” 

Last  camp,  near  Bridge  of  Chimbo 

1,430 

* 

* From  observations  of  Aneroid  Barometers. 


402 


RANGE  OF  THE  BAROMETER  IN  ECUADOR,  appendix. 


B.— THE  RANGE  OF  THE  BAROMETER  IN  ECUADOR. 


The  remarkable  stability  of  the  barometer  in  Ecuador  has  been  frequently 
noticed.  It  seems  to  have  been  first  publicly  pointed  out  by  La  Condamine, 
who  said  that,  at  Quito,  he  found  the  greatest  difference  (during  a year  ?) 
hardly  exceeded  a line  and  a half.1  This  amount  is  equal  to  0T33  of  an 
English  inch. 

Shortly  before  my  departure  for  Ecuador,  M.  Boussingault  presented  a 
Memoir  to  the  French  Academy  of  Sciences 2 dealing  with  this  subject,  and 
quoted  2T1  millimetres  as  the  (mean  ?)  diurnal  variation  at  Quito.  My 
movements  were  too  rapid  to  permit  of  a series  of  observations  at  any  one 
point  to  determine  the  daily  range,  or  the  periodical  variations,  and  circum- 
stances did  not  allow  ine  even  upon  a single  occasion  to  read  the  barometer 
for  twenty-four  consecutive  hours.  But  so  far  as  my  observations  extended 
they  supported  or  confirmed  previous  reports  respecting  the  small  range  of 
the  barometer  in  this  country.  The  greatest  difference  I observed  in  any 
one  day  in  the  interior  was  0T34  of  an  inch,  at  Riobamba,  on  June  24, 
1880  ; and  the  greatest  at  the  level  of  the  sea  was  0-092  of  an  inch,  at 
Guayaquil,  on  July  18,  1880.  The  violent  storms  which  often  raged  seemed 
to  affect  the  barometer  scarcely,  if  at  all,  and  the  variations  in  the  height  of 
the  mercurial  column  were  as  much  due  to  differences  in  the  air  tempera- 
ture as  to  any  alterations  in  pressure. 

The  highest  readings  recorded  by  Mr.  Chambers  at  Guayaquil  (30  feet 
above  sea  level)  were : — 


Dec.  1879 

(max.  of  obs.  on  1C  days)  29  ’970 

inches. 

Jan.  1880 

( 

22 

„ ) 29-910 

J J 

Feb.  „ 

( „ 

20 

„ ) 29-971 

ff 

Mar.  „ 

( 

23 

„ ) 29-921 

April  ,, 

( „ 

30 

„ ) 29-959 

June  ,, 

( „ 

11 

„ ) 29  943 

9 > 

July  ,, 

( 

10 

,,  ) 29-925 

» » 

The  above  readings  are 

reduced  to  32°  Faht. 

1 “ Nous  avons  eprouve  a Quito  pendant  des  annees  entieres,  que  sa  plus  grande 
difference  ne  passe  guere  une  ligne  et  demie.  M.  Godin  a le  premier  remarque  que  ses 
variations,  qui  sont  a peu  pres  d’une  ligne  en  vingt-qnatre  heures,  ont  des  alternatives 
assez  regulieres,  ce  qui  etant  une  fois  connu,  donne  lieu  de  juger  de  la  hauteur  moyenne 
du  Mercure,  par  une  seule  experience.” — Relation  abregee  d'un  Voyage  fait  dans  Vln- 
t.erieur  de  VAmerique  meridionals , par  M.  de  la  Condamine  ; Paris,  8vo,  1745,  pp.  21-22. 
See  also  Journal  du  Voyage , etc.,  par  M.  de  la  Condamine ; Paris,  4to,  1751,  p.  109. 

2 A resume  of  this  was  printed  in  the  Comptes  Rendus , vol.  88,  Nos.  23,  24 ; pp. 
1158-1165,  1240-1243,  June  9 and  16,  1879,  under  the  title  Determination  de  la  hauteur 
du  mercure  dans  le  barometre  sous  I'equateur ; amplitude  des  variations  'diurnes  baro- 
metriques  a diverses  stations  dans  les  Cordilleres,  par  M.  Boussingault. 


appendix.  RANGE  OF  THE  BAROMETER  IN  ECUADOR. 


403 


April  was  the  only  month  upon  which  he  observed  every  day  at  11  a.m.  and 
6 p.m.,  and  the  extreme  difference  between  his  readings  in  that  month 
amounted  to  0 197  of  an  inch. 1 

An  Astronomical  and  Meteorological  Observatory  was  established  at 
Quito  while  Garcia  Moreno  was  President  of  the  Republic,  and  in  October 
1878  this  institution  commenced  to  publish  a Bulletin,5  containing  baro- 
metric observations,  made  daily  at  C a.m.,  2 p.m..  and  10  p.m.  I was  informed 
at  Quito,  in  1880,  that  the  barometer  employed  was  not  at  the  Observatory, 
and  was  at  a much  lower  level,  at  the  extreme  opposite  (southern)  end  of  the 
city  ; but  since  then  its  position  appears  to  have  been  changed.5  From  this 
publication  I have  constructed  the  following  table,  embracing  the  period 
between  September  1879-August  1880  inclusive 


Max.  reading  in  the  Month  at  Min.  reading  in  the  Month  at 


6 A.M. 

2 P.M. 

10  P.M. 

6 A.M. 

2 P.M. 

10  P.M. 

1879,  Sept.  . 

. 548-41 

548-40 

548-47 

546-84 

546-72 

546-84 

,,  Oct. 

. 548-38 

548-12 

548-41 

546-73 

546-69 

546-39 

„ Nov.  . 

. 547-82 

548-28 

548-36 

546-79 

545-63 

546-63 

,,  Dec. 

. 548-66 

549-30 

549-12 

545-82 

545-82 

545-84 

1880,  Jan. 

. 548-43 

548-40 

548-40 

547-88 

547-74 

548-07 

„ Feb.  . 

. 547-87 

547-44 

547-77 

547-00 

546-54 

547-08 

,,  March . 

. 548-81 

547-58 

547-80 

547-19 

546-47 

546-30 

,,  April  . 

. 547"70 

547-05 

547-86 

545-86 

544-54 

545-95 

,,  May  . 

. 547-93 

548-02 

548-98 

545-90 

545-41 

546-20 

,,  June  . 

. 547-96 

547-91 

548-53 

545-60 

545-09 

546-14 

,,  July  . 

. 548-56 

547-74 

548-61 

545-84 

546-81 

547-00 

,,  Aug.  . 

. 547-78 

546-93 

547-88 

546-76 

545-08 

546-88 

The  readings  are  in  millimetres  reduced  to  32°  Faht. 


The  highest  recorded  reading  in  the  twelve  months  is  549 '30  mm.,  on 
December  1,  1879,  and  the  lowest  544-54  %nm.,  on  April  14,  1880  ; and 
the  difference  of  these  two,  or  the  extreme  range  recorded  in  the  Bulletin  for 
this  period  is  4‘76  mm.,  which  is  equal  to  2-1  Paris  lines,  or  nearly  half  as 
much  again  as  the  amount  named  by  La  Condamine.  As,  howTever,  the 
observations  published  in  the  Bulletin  are  only  for  6 a.m.,  2 p.m.,  and 
10  p.m.,  they  do  not  give  the  extreme  range  of  the  barometer  at  Quito. 

La  Condamine  said  that  the  barometer  at  Quito  attained  its  greatest 
height  at  about  9 a.m.,  and  dropped  to  its  minimum  about  3 p.m.  Boussin- 
gault  says  in  Comptes  Rendus,  1879,  pp.  1158-9,  “On  sait  en  effet  que,  dans 
les  regions  equinoxiales,  le  mereure,  dans  le  barometre,  atteint  le  maximum 


J In  the  same  month  the  greatest  difference  between  the  readings  at  Quito  (as 
recorded  in  the  Bulletin,  which  is  referred  to  in  the  next  paragraph)  was  O' 15?  of  an 
inch. 

1 Under  the  title  Boletin  del  Observatorio  Astronomic/)  de  Quito,  pvhlicado  por  Juan 
B.  Menten , Birector  del  mismo  Observatorio.  Quito.  Imprenta  nacional. 

3 The  following  note  occurs  at  p.  66  of  the  Bulletin,  dated  October  1880 : “ Desde 
el  1°  de  setiembre  se  ha  variado  la  colocacion  del  Barometro  lo  que  explica  la  diferencia 
con  los  meses  anteriores." 


404 


RANGE  OF  THE  BAROMETER  IN  ECUADOR,  appendix. 


de  hauteur  entre  8 et  10  lieures  da  matin  ; qu’il  descend  ensuite  jusque  vers 
4 heures  de  l’apres-midi  ; qu’il  est  a la  hauteur  minima  entre  3 et  4 heures, 
pour  remonter  jusqu'a  11  heures  du  soir,  sans  arriver  toutefois  a la  hauteur 
a laquelle  il  etait  a 9 heures  du  matin  : qu’il  s'abaisse  enfin  jusqu'a  4 heures 
du  matin,  sans  tomber  aussi  bas  qu‘  a 4 heures  du  soir  ; qu’il  recommence 
alors  son  evolution.  (Test  la,  du  moins,  ce  qui  a lieu  generalement.” 

The  observations  published  in  the  Quito  Bulletin  do  not  always  accord 
with  this  statement.  In  some  months,  the  means  of  the  2 p.m.  observations 
are  higher  instead  of  lower  than  the  means  of  those  at  6 a.m.  and  10  p.m., 
and  it  will  be  seen  from  the  table  at  p.  000  that  the  very  highest  reading  of 
the  entire  year  is  one  at  2 p.m.  The  following  observations,  however,  made 
bv  myself  at  Machachi,  so  far  as  they  go,  follow  the  law  as  stated  by 
Boussingault, 


At  Machachi.  Bar.  No.  558  (reduced  to  32°  Faht.). 


1880. 

10  A.M. 

11  A.M. 

2 P.M. 

(j  P.M. 

7.20  p.m. 

Jan.  26 

Inches. 

Inches. 

Inches. 

Inches. 

Inches. 

21-135 

.,  28 

21-147 

.,  20 

21-114 

,,  29 

... 

21-108 

,,  30 

21-163 

„ 30 

2M14 

,,  31 

21-159 

Feb.  1 

... 

21"096 

„ 4 

21  -092 

,,  5 

... 

21-120 

,,  ii 

21-134 

,.  27 

21-099 

„ 28 

#1-127 

„ 29 

21-179 

... 

J une  7 

21-167 

,,  10 

... 

21-131 

Means 

21-179 

21-165 

21-131 

21-111 

21-139 

The  smallness  of  the  differences  in  pressure  in  Ecuador,  and  the  regu- 
larity of  the  variations,  render  that  country  particularly  suitable  for  carry- 
ing out  such  experiments  as  it  is  still  desirable  to  make  with  the  baro- 
meter ; and  there  is  probably  no  other  region  on  or  near  to  the  Equator 
where  observations  can  be  made  with  such  facility  between  the  heights  of 
7000  to  16,000  feet. 


appendix.  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER.  405 


C._ COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  AGAINST  THE 
MERCURIAL  BAROMETER. 


Aneroids  were  carried  to  Ecuador  to  endeavour  to  ascertain  whether  the 
means  of  the  readings  of  several,  or  of  a number,  would  or  would  not  accord 
with  the  mercurial  barometer  at  low  pressures. 

It  has  long  been  known  that  the  indications  afforded  by  a single  aneroid 
are  apt  to  be  of  a very  deceiving  nature,  even  at  moderate  elevations  ; but  it 
seemed  to  me  possible  if  several,  or  if  a number  were  employed,  that  one 
might,  by  inter-comparison,  discriminate  between  those  which  went  most 
astray  and  those  which  held  closely  together  ; and  that,  by  adoption  of  the 
means  of  the  readings  of  the  latter,  a decent  approximation  might  be  obtained 
to  the  truth,  possibly  even  at  great  altitudes.  It  may  be  added  that  I wished 
this  might  prove  to  be  the  case  ; for  the  portability  of  aneroids,  the  facility 
with  which  they  can  be  read,  and  the  quickness  of  their  action,  would  render 
them  valuable  for  many  purposes,  if  their  indications  could  be  relied  upon. 

Eight  aneroids  were  taken.  One  of  these,  by  Casella,  marked  No.  580, 
had  been  made  for  an  earlier  journey  ; and,  through  being  only  graduated  to 
20  inches,  was  of  no  service  for  comparison  at  great  heights.'  The  seven 
remaining  aneroids  were  constructed  expressly  for  the  expedition,  and  were 
under  trial  and  examination  for  nearly  twelve  months  before  our  departure. 
They  were  selected  from  picked  instruments,  and  only  those  were  taken 
such  as  were,  so  far  as  one  could  tell,  in  all  respects  as  perfect  as  could  be 
produced.1 2  These  seven  aneroids  were  marked  A-G.  A,  B,  and  C were 
graduated  from  31  down  to  15  inches,  and  0,  E,  F,  G were  graduated  from 
31  down  to  13  inches, — a range  which  I thought  would  be  sufficient  for  my 
purposes. 3 

It  became  apparent  at  an  early  stage  of  the  journey,  a.  that  the  whole  of 
the  aneroids  bad  acquired  considerable  errors  ; b.  that  they  differed  amongst 
each  other  to  a very  large  extent  ; and  c.  that  neither  means  of  the  whole, 
nor  means  of  those  which  held  closest  together,  nor  means  of  any  combination, 
would  give  decent  approximations  to  the  truth.  The  more  evident  this 
became  the  greater  importance  I attached  to  the  preservation  of  the  mer- 
curials. Comparisons  of  the  aneroids  against  the  mercurials  were  neverthe- 

1 This  was  left  with  Mr.  Chambers  at  Guayaquil,  as  a reserve  for  him.  in  case  accident 
befell  the  Standard  Mercurial  ; and  he  read  both  instruments  during  the  whole  of  our 
absence  in  the  interior. 

2 I abstain,  however,  from  mentioning  the  names  of  the  makers  (to  whom  I am  much 
indebtedl.  lest  the  remarks  which  follow  should  be  construed  to  their  disadvantage. 

3 It  proved  to  be  inadequate. 


406  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER,  appendix. 


less  continued  until  the  end  of  the  journey  ; 1 * and  after  two  months’  experience 
in  the  interior  the  behaviour  of  the  aneroids  in  ascending  and  descending 
was  so  well  ascertained  that  one  might,  I think,  have  made  use  of  their 
indications  to  determine  differences  of  level  without  committing  very  great 
mistakes. 

In  the  following  pages,  I propose  first  to  give  some  of  my  experiences, 
and  then  to  draw  such  conclusions  as  appear  to  be  warranted. - 

§ 1.  Shortly  before  my  departure  from  London,  I made  (on  October  25, 
1879)  a final  comparison  of  the  aneroids  against  the  mercurial  barometer. 
Only  one  of  the  aneroids  corresponded  exactly,  and  of  the  others  some  were 
too  high  and  some  were  too  low,  the  greatest  difference  between  them 
amounting  to  0-225  of  an  inch,  and  the  mean  of  the  whole  showing  an  error 
of  + 0T48  of  an  inch. 

§ 2.  Our  ship  stopped  a clear  day  (November  20,  1879)  at  Jamaica,  and 
1 took  the  opportunity  to  carry  the  aneroids  to  the  top  of  the  Blue  Mount- 
ains,3 comparing  them  against  the  mercurial  before  starting  and  upon  return, 
and  comparing  them  against  each  other  at  the  highest  point  attained.  The 
following  is  the  complete  record,  and  it  will  be  seen  from  it  that  the  mean 


No.  of  Barometer. 

At  start. 

At  top. 

On  return. 

Aneroid  580 

29-980 

25-480 

29-975 

,,  A . . . 

29-850 

25-500 

29-850 

B . . . 

29-800 

25-250 

29  800 

C . . . 

29-700 

25-120 

29-650 

D . . . 

29-850 

25-400 

29-880 

„ E . . . 

29-800 

25-300 

29  750 

„ F . . . 

29-750 

25-350 

29-700 

„ G . . . 

29-800 

25-310 

29  700 

Extreme  differences 

0-280 

0-380 

0-325 

Mean  of  aneroids  . 

29-816 

25-332 

29-788 

Merc,  bar  No.  554  . 

29-876 

29  854 

Mean  error  of  aneroids 

- 0 060 

- 0 066 

error  of  the  aneroids  (which  in  London  was  + 0*148)  had  changed  on  arrival 
at  Kingston  to  — 0*000,  and  upon  return  in  the  evening  of  November  20 
it  was  still  further  increased  to  — O’OOO. 


1 In  all  the  comparisons  which  are  made  throughout  this  paper  the  readings  of  the 

mercurial  barometer  are  reduced  to  32°  Faht. 

3 Paragraphs  1-10  should  be  read  in  connection  with  the  tables  at  pp.  412,  413. 

3 Drove  to  Gordonstown,  walked  thence  to  Newcastle,  and  on  until  we  came  to  a 
notch  in  the  mountains  commanding  a view  of  the  northern  side  of  the  island.  Read  the 
aneroids  at  this  place. 


appendix.  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER.  407 


§ 3.  Comparisons  were  again  made  at  Colon  and  Guayaquil,  and  at 
neither  of  these  places  (at  the  level  of  the  sea)  was  there  any  further  in- 
crease in  the  mean  error  of  the  aneroids  ; but  at  Munapamba  (where  we 
commenced  to  mount  the  Pacific  range  of  Ecuador)  their  difference  amongst 
each  other  had  risen  to  O' 500  of  an  inch,  and  the  mean  error  was  increased 
to  — 0- 098  of  an  inch. 

§ 4.  At  Tambo  Gobierno  (the  culminating  point  of  the  road  over  the 
Pacific  range  of  Ecuador),  10,417  feet  above  the  sea,  the  mean  error  of  the 
aneroids  had  risen  to  — 0 487  of  an  inch,  and  the  extreme  difference  of  their 
readings  amounted  to  O ’ 715. 

§ 5.  With  the  descent  on  the  other  side  the  aneroids  came  more  closely 
together,  but  their  mean  error  continued  to  augment, — being  upon  arrival 
at  Guararula ? (8894  feet)  —O’ 520,  and  it  rose  in  one  week  to  — O’ 655. 
The  ‘ greatest  difference  ’ also  continued  to  increase,  and  it  stood  on  Christmas 
Day  at  O’ 800  of  an  inch.  The  following  record  showing  the  continual 
increases  in  the  errors,  will  be  found  interesting. 


No.  of  Barometer. 

Dec.  18,  1879. 

Dec.  20,  1879. 

Dec.  23,  1879. 

Dec.  25,  1879. 

Aneroid  A 

21 ’ 700 

21  700 

21-700 

21-600 

„ B 

21-170 

20-960 

20-940 

20-870 

„ D 

21-460 

21-430 

21-450 

21-390 

E 

21-500 

21-500 

21-500 

21-440 

„ F 

21  220 

21-030 

20-950 

20-800 

„ G 

21-400 

21-380 

21-300 

21-300 

Extreme  differences 

0-530 

0-740 

0-760 

0-800 

Mean  of  aneroids  . 

21-408 

21-333 

21-321 

21-233 

Mean  Merc.  bar. 

21-928 

21-912 

21-934 

21-888 

Mean  errors  of  aneroids  . 

- 0-520 

- 0-579 

- 0-613 

- 0-655 

§ 6.  Upon  December  26,  1879.  we  encamped  on  t he  Arena!  (14,375 
feet),  at  the  foot  of  Chimborazo,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  27th  the  mean 
error  of  the  aneroids  was  found  to  be  — O’ 737,  and  their  greatest  difference 
0-880. 

§ 7.  We  then  moved  up  to  the  Second  Camp  on  Chimborazo  (16,664 
feet , the  mean  error  continuing  to  rise,  and  amounting  upon  December  30 
to  -0-903. 

§ 8.  Upon  arrival  at  the  Third  Camp  (17,285  feet)  I found  that  com- 
parisons at  greater  heights  would  have  to  be  made  between  five  aneroids 

1 As  aneroid  580  was  left  at  Guayaquil,  the  comparisons  are  now  between  the  seven 
remaining  instruments. 

2 Aneroid  C was  lost  or  stolen  shortly  before  arrival  at  Guaranda,  thus  reducing  the 
number  under  comparison  to  six. 


408  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER,  appendix. 


only,  as  the  error  which  B had  acquired  was  so  large  that  we  had  already 
got  beyond  its  range.  The  mean  error  of  the  aneroids  at  this  point  amounted 
to  —0  974,  and  their  greatest  difference  to  l- 120  inches. 

§ 9.  The  aneroids  D and  E were  alone  taken  to  the  summit  of  Chim- 
borazo on  the  first  ascent,  January  4,  1880,  and  these  two  were  taken 
because  they  were  working  better  than  the  others.  The  readings  on  the 
summit  are  instructive. 

Merc.  bar.  No.  558  ....  14-110  inches. 

Aneroid  D 13-050  ,, 

do.  E . . . . 12  • 900  (by  estimation). 

The  mean  of  the  two  aneroids  is  seen  to  be  12 '975  inches,  and  the 
error  of  this  upon  the  mercurial  — 1 • 135  inches.  I defer  comment  to  a 
later  point. 

§ 10.  Their  prolonged  residence  upon  Chimborazo  seriously  affected  the 
constitutions  of  aneroids  F and  G.  The  index  of  the  latter  instrument 
became  immovable,  and  the  former  was  afflicted  with  a quivering  action 
which  set  observation  at  defiance.  Comparisons  for  the  remainder  of  the 
journey  were  thus  restricted  to  A,  B,  D,  E only,  and  they  are  given  in  the 
tables  upon  pp.  21-23  so  far  as  is  necessary  to  support  the  statements, — a. 
that  the  aneroids  acquired  considerable  errors  : b.  that  they  differed  amongst 
each  other  to  a very  large  extent  ; and  c.  that  their  means  were  far  from  the 
truth. 

§ 11.  After  we  had  been  three  to  four  weeks  in  the  interior,  the  aneroids 
A,  B,  D,  E were  found  to  hold  pretty  constantly  together  (or,  speaking  more 
correctly,  their  movements  were  harmonious),  and  they  seemed  to  have 
acquired  their  maximum  errors  for  the  pressures  at  which  they  were  used.1 
Of  the  above  four  instruments  B had  the  largest  index-error,  and  the  following 
table  shows  that  it  remained  tolerably  constant.  It  then  became  interesting 


Date. 

Place  of  Observation. 

Merc.  bar.  558. 

Aneroid  B. 

Error  of  B . 

Jan.  14,  1880 

Chuquipoquio 

19 -683  inch 

17"820  inch 

— 1’863  inch 

Feb.  8,  ., 

Hac.  de  la  Rosario 

20-805  ,, 

19-100  ,, 

- 1-705  „ 

,,  9.  ,. 

Illiniza  (S.  side)  . 

17-239  „ 

15-400  ,, 

- 1-839  „ 

„ 16,  ,, 

On  Cotopaxi  . 

17-431  ,. 

15-650  ,, 

- 1-781  „ 

„ 26,  ,, 

Machachi . 

21142  ., 

19-360  ,, 

- 1-782  ., 

Mar.  28,  ., 

Hac.  Guachala 

21-618  „ 

19-950  ,, 

- 1-668  ,, 

May  15,  ,, 

Quito  .... 

21-631  ,, 

19-990  ,, 

- 1-641  „ 

June  8,  ,, 

Illiniza  (N.  side)  . 

17-222  „ 

15-400  „ 

- 1-822  „ 

to  observe  whether  aneroids  which  had  acquired  such  large  index-errors 
could  be  usefully  employed  for  the  determination  of  differences  of  level. 


1 See  the  last  column  of  the  table  at  p.  413. 


appendix.  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER.  409 


§ 12.  Upon  the  journey  to  the  north  of  Quito  I carried  mere.  bar.  No. 
558  and  aneroids  A and  B,  and  upon  arrival  at  the  top  of  the  great  ravine 
of  Guallabamba  took  simultaneous  observations  of  the  mercurial  and  the 
aneroids.  At  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  two  hours  and  a half  later,  readings 
of  all  three  were  repeated  with  the  following  result  : — 


Date.  Barometer.  Read  at  top. 

Mar.  27,  1880  Merc.  bar.  558  (red.  to  32°  Faht.)  21 '692 
do.  Aneroid  A 21  "140 

do.  do.  B 19 '940 


Read  at  bottom. 
23-929 
23-400 
22-200 


The  rise  of  the  Mercurial  Barometer  was  2-237  inches, 
do.  do.  Aneroid  A ,,  2 "200  ,, 

do.  do.  ,,  B ,,  2"260  ,, 


§ 13.  The  foregoing  experiment  is  a descending  one  employing  two  ane- 
roids, and  the  next  is  an  ascending  one  in  which  three  were  observed.  Upon 
the  occasion  of  the  attempt  to  ascend  Illiniza  from  the  north,  I read  the 
three  aneroids  A,  B,  D before  departure  from  Machachi  (9839  feet),  and  did 
the  same  at  our  camp  (15,440  feet). 


Date. 


June  8,  1880 
do. 
do. 
do. 


Barometer. 
Merc.  bar.  558 
Aneroid  A 
do.  B 
do.  D 


At  Machachi  (9  a.  m.) 
2U176  inches 
20-050  ,, 

19- 530  „ 

20- 290  „ 


At  Camp  (6  p.  m.) 
17-222  inches. 
16-810  ,, 

15- 400  „ 

16- 380  ,, 


The  fall  of  the  Mercurial  Barometer  was  3 954  inches. 
The  mean  fall  of  the  three  aneroids  was  3-960  ,, 


§ 14.  Upon  the  second  ascent  of  Chimborazo  I carried  aneroids  A and  E 
to  the  summit,  reading  them  at  the  fifth  camp  and  at  the  top.  Aneroid  A 
became  much  out  of  range,  and  I therefore  cannot  give  its  reading. 

Date.  Barometer.  Fifth  Camp  (4  a.  m.)  Summit  (2  p.  m.) 

July  3,  1880  Merc.  bar.  558  16-931  inches  14-044  inches, 

do.  Aneroid  E 16-060  ,,  12-990  ,, 

The  fall  of  the  Mercurial  Barometer  was  2’887  inches, 
do.  Aneroid  E ,,  3-070  ,, 

§ 15.  The  examples  which  are  quoted  in  §§  12,  13,  14  give  the  closest 
coincidences  that  I can  mention  from  amongst  experiments  of  this  order. 
Upon  the  whole,  it  appeared  to  me  that  better  values  could  be  obtained 
from  aneroids  by  taking  the  mean  oi  ascending  and  descending  observations,1 
than  by  taking  the  means  of  either  ascending  or  descending  ones  alone,  and 
I now  give  an  example  in  which  this  method  of  treatment  was  adopted. 

On  March  19,  1880,  I carried  the  aneroids  A,  B,  D,  E from  our  lodging 


1 When  ascent  and  descent  are  only  a short  space  of  time  apart. 


410  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER,  appendix. 


at  Quito  to  the  top  of  the  hill  called  the  Panecillo,  on  this  occasion  reading 
the  ‘ scales  of  feet  ’ upon  them  before  departure,  and  again  upon  return  to 
Quito.  Prom  the  means  of  the  ascending  and  descending  readings,  the 
summit  of  the  Panecillo  appears  to  be  651"25  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
principal  Plaza  of  Quito,  which  from  the  mean  of  twenty-two  observations  of 
mercurial  barometer  by  myself  is  found  to  be  9343"3  feet  above  the  sea.  I 
have  no  observation  of  mercurial  barometer  on  the  Panecillo  ; and,  if  I had, 
should  still  quote  by  preference  the  independent  observations  of  Messrs. 
Reiss  and  Stubel,  who.  from  the  mean  of  a large  number  of  observations  of 
mercurial  barometer,  give  for  the  height  of  Quito  9350  feet,  and  for  the 
Panecillo  (two  observations  of  m.  b.)  10,007  feet.  Their  difference  of  level 
therefore  is  057  feet,  or  5 feet  9 inches  more  than  the  height  indicated  by 
the  aneroids. 


Barometer. 

At  Quito,  in 
Hotel. 

Summit  of 
Panecillo. 

= a rise  of 

On  return 
to  Quito. 

= a fall  of 

Aneroid 

A 

10,080  feet 

11,325  feet 

045  feet 

10,700  feet 

505  feet 

do. 

B 

12,310  „ 

© 

o 

740  „ 

12,390  „ 

060  „ 

do. 

D 

11,200  ,, 

11,950  „ 

090  „ 

11,340  „ 

010  ,, 

do. 

E 

11,000  ,, 

11,080  ,, 

080  „ 

11.060  ,, 

020  „ 

Mean  of  ascending  readings  688-75  feet. 

Mean  of  descending  do.  613-75  feet. 

Mean  of  ascending  and  descending  651 '25  feet. 

§ 10.  As  the  journey  approached  its  termination,  I became  curious  to 
observe  how  the  aneroids  would  read  against  the  mercurials  upon  return 
to  the  level  of  the  sea.  We  arrived  at  Guayaquil  again  on  July  13,  1880, 
and  the  barometers  were  compared  against  each  other  from  the  16th  to  the 
27th.1  The  error  of  aneroid  A upon  the  10th  was  — 0-361  of  an  inch,  and 
of  E — 0’321,  but  by  the  27th  their  respective  errors  diminished  to  — 0-341 
and  — 0-291.  I have  not  allowed  the  index  of  either  to  be  altered.  They 
continued  to  recover  in  the  course  of  time  ; and  I-  found,  upon  January  9, 
1885,  that  aneroid  E possessed  an  index-error  of  +0-100,  which  was  very 
nearly  its  error  upon  the  last  comparison  in  1879  before  our  start,  when 
it  was  seen  to  be  + 0-182.  Aneroid  A did  not  recover  with  the  same 
rapidity.  Upon  January  9,  1885,  its  eri-or  had  diminished  to  — 0"200,  and 
in  five  years  more  it  recovered  another  tenth  of  an  inch. 

§ 17.  In  the  tables  at  pp.  414,  415,  the  comparisons  of  the  aneroids  A and  E 
are  presented  separated  from  the  others.  These  two  instruments  were  those 
which  were  most  consistent  in  their  behaviour,  and  were  those  wnich  were 
most  frequently  employed.  From  inspection  of  the  tables  it  will  be  immedi- 
ately apparent  that  ‘ a good  return  ’ is  of  little  value  as  a test  of  working. 


i See  the  tables  at  pp.  414.  415,  for  this  and  for  the  succeeding  paragraph. 


appendix.  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER.  411 


Upon  the  last  comparison  before  departure,  these  two  aneroids  possessed  almost 
exactly  similar  index-errors  ( + 0-172  and  +0-182),  and  upon  return  to  Guaya- 
quil their  index-errors  were  not  far  apart  (—O' 341  and  —0-291).  It  would 
have  appeared  legitimate  to  conclude  that  their  working  had  closely  corre- 
sponded, but  inspection  of  the  last  two  columns  of  the  table  shows  that  such 
a conclusion  would  have  been  extremely  erroneous.  The  case  of  E,  taken  by 
itself,  is  still  stronger.  This,  in  course  of  time,  ‘ returned  ’ almost  perfectly  ; 
and  inasmuch  as  this  instrument  (like  all  the  others)  was  tested  before  de- 
parture, inch  by  inch,  against  the  mercurial  barometer  under  the  air-pump, 
and  corresponded  almost  perfectly,  it  would  have  seemed  right  to  conclude 
that  its  readings  in  the  interim  must  have  been  nearly  free  from  error.  Yet 
this  instrument,  at  the  greatest  height  at  which  it  was  compared,  was  found 
to  possess  a minus  error  of  an  inch  and  a fifth,  the  value  of  which,  at  the 
elevation  in  question,  exceeds  two  thousand  feet  (see  § 9). 

§ 18.  Some  of  the  more  important  conclusions  which  must  be  arrived 
at  from  consideration  of  the  results  of  these  comparisons  of  the  aneroid 
against  the  mercurial  barometer  are  so  obvious  that  I consider  it  unnecessary 
even  to  point  them  out  ; and,  in  the  remarks  which  follow.  I endeavour 
more  to  indicate  the  ways  in  which  the  aneroid  may  be  advantageously 
used,  than  to  emphasize  the  objections  which  might  be  urged  against  its 
employment. 

A It  seems  possible,  without  reference  to  a standard,  by  intercomparison 
of  a number  of  aneroids,  to  discriminate  between  them,  and  to  select  those 
in  which  most  confidence  should  be  placed. 

B.  That,  with  aneroids  of  the  present  construction,  it  is  unlikely  that 
decent  approximations  to  the  truth  will  be  obtained  at  low  pressures,  even 
when  employing  a large  number  of  instruments.  The  errors  of  the  whole 
series  (A  — G)  were  invariably  minus  ones,  and  in  the  worst  cases  amounted 
to  as  much  as  two  inches  upon  the  mercurial  barometer. 

C.  That  differences  of  level  at  great  heights  (low  pressures)  may  be 
determined  with  considerable  accuracy  with  aneroids,  even  when  they  have 
acquired  very  large  index-errors. 

D.  That  in  observations  of  this  description  a nearer  approach  to  the 
truth  is  generally  obtained  by  employing  the  mean  of  ascending  and  descend- 
ing readings  than  by  taking  ascending  or  descending  readings  separately. 

E.  That  the  test  which  is  commonly  applied  of  comparing  for  brief 
periods  (minutes  or  hours)  aneroids  against  mercurial  barometers  under  the 
air-pump  is  of  little  or  no  value  in  determining  the  errors  which  will  appear 
in  aneroids  used  at  low  pressures  for  long  periods  (weeks  or  months). 

F.  That,  similarly,  comparisons  of  aneroids  against  mercurial  barometers 
in  balloon  for  a brief  space  of  time  afford  little  or  no  clue  to  the  errors 
which  will  be  exhibited  by  the  former  when  subjected  to  low  pressures  for 


412  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER,  appendix. 


appendix.  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER.  413 


414  COMPARISONS  OF  TEE  ANEROID  BAROMETER,  appendix. 


appendix.  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER.  415 


416  COMPARISONS  OF  THE  ANEROID  BAROMETER,  appendix. 


prolonged  periods.  [The  balloon  test  is  only  a repetition  of  the  air-pump 
test.  In  the  former  case  the  instruments  are  exposed  to  a natural,  and  in 
the  latter  case  to  an  artificial  diminution  of  pressure  ; and  if  the  duration  of 
time  is  equal  in  each  case  the  results  ought  to  correspond  exactly.] 

G.  That  very  material  errors  may  be  fallen  into  by  regarding  ‘ a good 
return  ’ at  the  level  of  the  sea  as  a proof  of  correct  working,  at  low  pressures, 
of  aneroids  of  the  present  construction. 

H . That  for  the  detection  of  such  errors  as  aneroids  (of  the  present  con- 
struction) will  exhibit  when  subjected  to  low  pressures  for  a length  of  time, 
aneroids  should  be  subjected  artificially  to  similar  pressures  for  a long 
period. 


appendix.  UPON  BOILING-POINT  OBSERVATIONS. 


417 


D.—UPON  BOILING-POINT  OBSERVATIONS. 


Henderson’s  boiling-point  apparatus,  and  nine  boiling-point  thermometers, 
were  taken  lest  accidents  might  occur  to  the  barometers.  The  thermometers 
were  self-registering  ; they  were  constructed  in  two  series,  in  order  that  the 
scales  might  not  be  too  finely  divided  ; and  they  were  verified  in  the  custom- 
ary manner. 

As  the  barometers  were  not  injured,  it  was  unnecessary  to  depend  for 
altitude  upon  the  indications  afforded  by  the  boiling-point  of  water.  Obser- 
vations of  the  boiling-point  were,  however,  made  at  seventeen  different  stations 
from  8400  to  19,500  feet  above  the  sea,  for  the  purpose  of  comparison  against 
the.  barometers.  These  observations  have  been  worked  out  for  altitude  by  Mr. 
W.  Ellis,  F.R.A.S.,  but  are  not  quoted  in  this  volume.  As  a general  rule, 
three  or  more  thermometers  were  boiled  at  each  station,  and  in  the  calcula- 
tions for  altitude  the  means  have  been  used  of  the  observations  which  were 
made  on  each  occasion. 

It  was  found,  in  all  cases,  that  the  mean  boiling-point  at  every  station 
was  higher  than  the  corresponding  barometer  would  lead  one  to  expect,1  from 
the  tables  which  are  generally  accepted  as  authoritative,  namely,  Regnault's, 
as  given  in  the  Smithsonian  Tables,  Meteorological  and  Physical,  third  edition, 
Washington,  1859.  The  divergencies  became  more  pronounced  the  higher 
we  ascended,  and  this  leads  to  the  opinion  that  the  tables  are  not  perfect. 

1 venture  to  take  the  opportunity  to  make  a few  general  remarks  upon 
the  method  of  attempting  to  determine  altitudes  by  observations  of  the 
boiling-point  of  water  ; but  I offer  them  with  great  diffidence,  as  they  will 
be  found  somewhat  opposed  to  the  expressed  opinions  of  eminent  travellers, 
and  of  persons  in  authority. 

Of  late  years,  the  practice  of  deducing  altitudes  from  observations  of  the 
boiling-point  of  water  has  to  a considerable  extent  superseded  the  older 
method  of  obtaining  them  by  observation  of  the  mercurial  barometer  : and 
it  has  been  assumed  (I  think,  erroneously)  that  the  former  method  is  but 
slightly  inferior  to  the  latter  in  accuracy,  and  is  superior  to  it  in  facility. 
1 think  that  any  person  who  will,  even  at  the  level  of  the  sea,  take  the 
trouble  to  examine  the  matter  for  himself,  will  speedily  be  convinced  that 
the  boiling-point  method  is  one  which  must  always  be  liable  to  considerable 
errors  upon  the  mercurial  barometer  ; that  mountain-travellers  who  have  had 
experience  of  the  two  methods — more  especially  those  who  have  experimented 
upon  the  summits  of  lofty  peaks — will  concur  with  me  in  saying  that  the 
occasions  are  very  rare  indeed  upon  which  observations  of  the  mercurial  baro- 
meter cannot  be  made,  even  upon  those  on  which  high  wind  and  severe  cold  are 
experienced  at  inconvenient  situations  ; and  that,  upon  the  other  hand,  occ-a- 

1 The  heights  deduced  from  the  boiling-point  observations  are  consequently  lower 
than  the  truth. 


4 


418 


UPON  BOILING-POINT  OBSERVATIONS.  appendix. 


sions  are  numerous  on  which,  from  one  cause  or  another,  it  is  impossible  to 
make  observations  of  the  boiling-point  of  water  under  such  conditions  as  will 
allow  the  observations  to  be  of  value. 

The  experimentalist,  when  at  considerable  elevations,  will  soon  learn  to 
distrust  single  readings  or  the  use  of  single  thermometers,  through  noticing  how 
seldom  his  observed  boiling-points  accord  with  the  ‘corresponding  barometric 
pressure,’ or  agree  with  each  other;  and  will  consider  it  necessary  to  employ 
at  least  several  thermometers  and  to  repeat  his  observations.  I find,  in 
practice,  that  to  do  this  out  of  doors,  under  favourable  conditions,  occupies  as 
great  a length  of  time,  or  greater,  than  to  take  two  careful  observations 
of  the  mercurial  barometer,  a quarter  of  an  hour  apart.1  So  far  as  con- 
venience and  rapidity  of  observation  are  concerned,  the  balance  .appears  to  be 
in  favour  of  the  mercurial  barometer  when  the  conditions  are  favourable,  and 
more  distinctly  so  when  the  conditions  are  adverse. 

Assuming  that  the  thermometers  which  are  employed  are  boiled  in  the 
correct  manner,2  and  with  the  utmost  care,  there  yet  remain  several  possible 
causes  of  error,3  and  with  thermometers  of  the  kind  usually  employed,  in 
which  a degree  of  Fahrenheit's  scale  seldom  extends  over  more  than  the 
eighth  of  an  inch,  I think  an  error  of  half  a degree  and  upwards  is  probable 
in  a single  observation  of  one  thermometer.4  To  obtain  a more  extended 
scale  (to  lessen  the  probability  of  error)  the  traveller  must  either  carry  an 
embarrassing  number  of  thermometers,  or  else  employ  instruments  of  unusual 
and  inconvenient  length. 

Near  the  level  of  the  sea,  the  value  of  one  degree  of  the  Fahrenheit  scale 
is  about  O' 590  of  an  inch  on  a barometer,  and  one  inch  of  the  barometer  is 


1 Tlio  amount  of  time  actually  consumed  in  making  a series  of  observations  of  the 
boiling-point  is  longer  than  is  necessary  for  several  observations  of  mercurial  barometer ; 
as  in  the  former  case  undivided  attention  must  be  given  to  the  operations,  while  in  the 
latter  it  is  only  necessary  to  inspect  the  instrument  at  intervals,  other  things  being  done 

in  the  meanwhile.  As  it  is  seldom  possible  to  remain  more  than  an  hour  upon  a very 
elevated  summit,  every  minute  is  of  importance. 

3 They  should  not  be  boiled  in  open  vessels,  nor  immersed  in  the  water.  This,  how- 
ever, is  not  unfrequently  done.  See  A note  on  an  alleged  ascent  of  Chimborazo  in  185ti, 
by  .Vessrs.  Bemy  and  Brenchley,  in  the  Aljnne  Journal , vol.  x.  pp.  226-31,  1881.  Also 
see  Livingstone's  Last  Journals , vol.  ii.  p.  198.  1874.  Livingstone  enters  in  his  Journal, 
less  than  eleven  months  before  his  death,  that  “ there  is  a full  degree  of  difference  between 
boiling  in  an  open  pot  and  in  Casella’s  apparatus."  It  may,  I think,  be  taken  as  certain 
that  Dr.  Livingstone  would  not  have  made  this  entry  at  such  a time  if  he  had  been  pre- 
viously acquainted  with  the  fact. 

3 Amongst  others,  the  liability  of  mercurial  thermometers  to  read  too  high  by  age. 
See  the  Kew  certificate  at  p.  397  (of  the  attached  thermometer),  and  compare  the  error 
therein  stated  with  the  error  on  return  as  stated  in  the  Meteorological  Office  certificate. 

Also  see  S.  W.  Baker’s  Albert  N'Yanza , vol.  ii.  pp.  362-3,  Svo,  1866,  for  an  instance 
of  a boiling-point  thermometer  acquiring  an  error  of  + 0'8  of  a degree  Faht.  in  4}  years. 
This  thermometer  was  made  by  Casella,  and  was  supplied  by  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society. 

See  also  Sir  S.  W.  Baker’s  Ismailia , vol.  ii.  p.  562,  8vo,  1874,  for  an  example  of  a 
boiling-point  thermometer  apparently  changing  its  index-error  from  + 020  to  — 010 
Faht. 

* Much  larger  differences  than  half  a degree  Fahrenheit  may  be  observed  between 
thermometers  which  are  sent  out  by  makers  of  the  best  repute,  accompanied  by  ‘verifi- 
cations’ stating  only  infinitesimal  errors. 


APPENDIX. 


UPON  BOILING-POINT  OBSERVATIONS. 


419 


about  equal  to  900  feet  of  altitude.  The  value  of  a degree  of  the  Fahrenheit 
scale  is  therefore  equal  to  about  531  feet. 

At  the  height  of  the  summit  of  Mont  Blanc  the  value  of  one  degree  of 
the  Fahrenheit  scale  is  about  equal  to  0-375  of  an  inch  on  a barometer,  and 
at  this  elevation  the  value  of  one  inch  on  a barometer  is  about  equal  to  1000 
feet.  In  this  case,  the  value  of  a degree  of  the  Fahrenheit  scale  is  therefore 
about  000  feet. 

From  comparison  of  the  means  of  a number  of  observations  of  the  boil- 
ing-point of  water,  made  by  myself  in  Ecuador,  against  the  mercurial  barome- 
ter. when  the  latter  was  standing  at  10-522  to  17’427  inches,  the  value 
of  a degree  of  a Fahrenheit  scale,  at  that  pressure,  appears  to  be  013 
feet. 

From  the  previous  paragraphs  it  is  seen  that  the  value  of  each  degree  of 
a thermometric  scale  is  greater  the  higher  we  ascend.  It  is  consequently 
necessary,  in  order  to  obtain  as  good  proportional  results  at  a high  level  as  at 
the  level  of  the  sea,  that  personal  errors,  and  errors  arising  from  method  or 
instrumental  delects  must  be  lessened.  This,  in  practice,  will  not,  I think,  be 
found  possible.  The  higher  we  ascend  the  greater  are  the  difficulties  of 
observation. 

Should  it,  however,  be  found  possible  to  obtain  absolutely  perfect  instru- 
ments, and  to  observe  without  introducing  personal  errors,  it  remains  to  be 
seen  whether  the  observations  will  accord  with  the  ‘ corresponding  barometric 
pressure.’ 1 

Few  observations  for  comparison  have  hitherto  been  made  of  the  boiling- 
point  of  water  against  the  mercurial  barometer  at  great  heights,  and  I am  not 
acquainted  with  any  which  have  been  made  at  greater  elevations  than  those 
by  Dr.  (now  Sir  Joseph)  Hooker  in  1848-50,  by  the  brothers  Schlagintweit 
in  1855-50,  and  by  M.  Wisse  in  Ecuador  in  1844-49.  Dr.  Hooker  quotes'2 
observations  for  comparison  at  seventeen  stations  above  13,000  feet,  his 
loftiest  being  the  Donkia  Pass,  18,400  feet.  The  brothers  Schlagintweit 
record3  observations  at  five  stations  above  13,000  feet,  their  most  elevated 
point  of  observation  being  their  camp  on  Ibi  Gamin,  19,323  feet.4  M. 
Wisse5 6  observed  at  only  two  stations  above  13.000  feet.  My  own  series 


1 The  remarks  which  accompany  the  section  in  the  Smithsonian  Tables  (Section  iv. 
p.  06')  upon  the  thermometrical  measurement  of  heights  well  deserve  attention.  “ Ii 
may  be  seen  that  the  heights  determined  by  the  means  of  the  temperature  of  boiling- 
water  are  less  reliable  than  those  deduced  from  barometrical  observations.  Both  derive 
the  difference  of  altitude  from  the  difference  of  atmospheric  pressure.  But  the  tempera- 
ture of  boiling- water  gives  only  indirectly  the  atmospheric  pressure,  which  is  given 
directly  by  the  barometer.  This  method  is  thus  liable  to  all  the  chances  of  error  which 
may  affect  the  measurements  by  means  of  the  barometer,  besides  adding  to  them  new  ones 
peculiar  to  itself,  the  principal  of  which,  not  to  speak  of  the  differences  exhibited  in  the 
various  tables  of  the  force  of  vapour,  is  the  difficulty  of  ascertaining  with  the  necessary 
accuracy  the  true  temperature  of  boiling-water.” 

- In  Himalayan  Journals,  vol.  ii.  p.  458  ; 8vo,  London,  1854. 

3 In  their  Results  of  a Scientific  Mission  to  India  and  Hiyh  Asia , vol.  ii,  p.  28  ; 4to, 
London  and  Leipzig,  1862. 

4 At  p.  336  of  the  same  volume,  the  height  of  this  camp  is  said  to  be  19.094  feet. 

I am  not  aware  which  determination  is  the  more  correct  one. 

6 The  observations  are  given  by  Regnault  in  Annales  de  Chimie  et  de  Physique , voL 
38,  p.  123,  1850. 


420 


UPON  BOILING-POINT  OBSERVATIONS.  appendix. 


includes  thirteen  stations  at  greater  heights  than  13.000  feet,  the  loftiest 
being  the  camp  close  to  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi  (19,478  feet),  the  summit  of 
Antisana  (19,335  feet),  and  the  summit  of  Cayambe  (19,186  feet).  The 
mean  height  of  these  three  positions  as  deduced  from  observations  of  mer- 
curial barometer  is  19,333  feet.  Five,  four,  and  two  thermometers  respect- 
ively were  boiled  at  them,  and  the  mean  error  of  the  final  results  as  deduced 
from  the  boiling-points  at  the  three  grouped  stations  is  — 513  feet. 

In  comparing  this  unsatisfactory  record  with  the  observations  made  by 
Dr.  Hooker,  I find  that  the  majority  of  his  boiling-point  results  showed  con- 
siderable minus  errors  ; and  that  at  his  loftiest  station  (18,466  feet)  the 
error  was  — 600  feet. 

Upon  examining  the  observations  of  the  brothers  Schlagintweit,*  I find 
that  their  boiling-points  were  always  higher  than  the  simultaneously-observed 
barometers  would  lead  one  to  expect  (and,  so  far,  they  are  in  harmony  with 
the  observations  by  Dr.  Hooker  and  myself).  Their  errors  were,  however, 
small  as  compared  with  ours,  and  their  results  as  a whole  are,  I think,  more 
harmonious  than  it  is  reasonable  to  expect  can  be  obtained  by  a method 
which  includes  so  many  possibilities  of  error. 

The  information  afforded  by  M.  Wisse  is  not  so  copious  as  one  could 
desire.  The  observations  which  are  quoted  in  Annales  de  Chimie  et  de 
Physique  were  made  by  him  at  twenty-six  different  places  between  June 
1844  and  May  1849,  but  only  five  of  his  stations  were  higher  than  10.000 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  only  two  of  these  reached  15,000  feet.  It  is  not  said 
whether  the  recorded  boiling-points  were  single  observations  or  the  means  of 
several  ; nor  is  it  stated  whether  the  recorded  observations  are  the  tvhole 
which  were  made,  or  are  only  selected  instances  in  which  the  boiling-point 
observations  closely  accorded  with  the  barometric  ones.  From  their  remark- 
able accordance  with  each  other  it  seems  not  improbable  that  this  was  the 
case. 

From  examination  and  comparison  of  these  observations  as  a whole  it 
would  seem  by  no  means  certain  that  the  barometric  pressure  corresponding 
to  any  given  boiling-point  has  been  well  ascertained  ; and  it  would  appear 
desirable  that  more  comprehensive  and  thorough  investigations  in  this  direc- 
tion should  be  made,  if  it  should  continue  to  be  the  practice  to  attempt  to 
determine  the  heights  of  lofty  positions  by  observation  of  the  boiling-point 
of  water. 

But  should  such  observations  be  made  as  would  determine  absolutely  the 
boiling-point  of  water  corresponding  to  every  inch  of  the  barometer,  the 
fundamental  objection  to  the  use  of  this  method  would  not  be  overcome, 
namely,  that  it  is  a cumbrous  procedure,  a method  built  up  upon  another, 
which  must  always  (as  is  stated  in  the  remarks  already  quoted  from  the  Smith- 
sonian Tables)  be  “ liable  to  all  the  chances  of  error  which  may  affect  measure- 
ments by  means  of  the  barometer,  besides  adding  to  them  new  ones  peculiar  to 
itself This  objection  applies  (although  not  with  equal  force)  to  all  observa- 
tions made  by  this  method,  in  every  region  and  at  any  height. 


1 It  should  be  noted  that  the  Schlagintweits  employed  thermometers  21  inches  long. 
This  probably  permitted  greater  refinement  of  observation. 


APPENDIX. 


TEMPERATURES  IN  ECUADOR. 


421 


E.—TEMPERATURES  IN  ECUADOR. 

The  temperatures  experienced  in  Ecuador  were  moderate  both  as  regards 
heat  and  cold.  During  our  stay  at  Guayaquil  in  December  1879,  the 
highest  temperature  observed  in  the  shade  was  853  Faht.,  at  1.30  p.m., 
on  the  10th  ; and  on  our  return  in  July  1880,  79°  at  3 p.m.  on  the  21st. 
The  highest  recorded  by  Mr.  Chambers  during  our  absence  in  the  interior 
occurred  on  December  21,  23,  25,  1879,  on  each  of  which  days  he  observed 
87’5  at  6 p.m.  Although  these  figures  do  not  represent  the  maximum  in 
the  shade  at  Guayaquil,  they  are  not,  I believe,  far  beneath  it.  Temperature 
at  this  place  appears  to  have  a very  small  range  ; so  far  as  I could  learn, 
seldom  rising  to  90°,  and  not  generally  falling  much  below  65°  at  night. 
The  lowest  temperature  I noted  during  our  stay  was  70°  at  7.30  a.m.,  on 
July  27,  1880.  From  Mr.  Chambers’s  observations  it  would  appear  that  the 
months  December  and  January  are  distinctly  warmer  than  June  and  July.1 

Moving,  as  we  did  in  the  interior,  from  one  place  to  another,  at  continu- 
ally varying  elevations,  it  was  not  easy  to  tell  whether  one  month  was  or 
was  not  notably  warmer  than  another ; but  from  the  Bulletin  which  is 
printed  by  the  Observatory  at  Quito 2 T am  able  to  form  the  following  table, 


Date. 

Maximum  observed  on 
any  Day  of  the  Month. 

Minimum  observed  on  any 
Day  of  the  Month. 

December  1879 

22-8 

(8th) 

4’8  (1st) 

January  1880 

23-7 

(2nd) 

7'4  (2nd) 

February  ,, 

24-0 

(27th) 

7’0  (12th,  13th,  22nd) 

March  ,, 

229 

(3rd) 

5 6 (24th) 

April  ,, 

22.5 

(14th) 

7-0  (20th) 

Mav  ,, 

22-3 

(3rd) 

8-0  (2nd,  20th,  21st) 

June  ,, 

22-8 

(17th) 

6-5  (3rd,  30th) 

July 

22.6 

(19th) 

6’7  (6th) 

August  ,, 

22-6  (2nd 

and  5th) 

3-5  (12th) 

September  ,, 

23-4 

(23rd) 

4-1  (10th) 

October  ,, 

20.2 

(9th) 

5’6(5th,  6th,  7th,  11th) 

November  ,, 

20-3 

(29th) 

6-8  (14th,  22nd) 

1 The  head-coverings  worn  by  Ecuadorians  show  that  the  sun’s  rays  are  seldom  so 
powerful  as  to  be  dangerous.  In  Guayaquil  the  Panama  straw  hat  is  very  generally  used, 
and  at  Quito  and  other  towns  in  the  interior  tall  black  hats  are  not  unfrequently  seen  on 
well-to-do  people,  while  the  lower  orders  use  ordinary  felt  wideawakes  and  straw  hats.  I 
did  not  see  any  persons  in  the  whole  country  wearing  helmets  and  protective  devices 
such  as  are  commonly  employed  in  tropical  or  hot  countries.  In  the  interior  the  sun  is  not 
often  perfectly  clear  at  mid-day,  and  only  on  one  occasion  did  I feel  that  its  rays  were 
sufficiently  fierce  to  be  dangerous,  namely,  at  Guachala  (9217),  in  March  1880,  at  8 a.m. 

a Boletin  del  Observatorio  Astronomico  de  Quito.  Inprenta  nacional.  The  tempera- 
tures are  given  in  the  centigrade  scale. 


TEMPERATURES  IN  ECUADOR. 


APPENDIX. 


4 22 


from  which  it  appears  that  the  highest  maximum  (24o-0)  of  the  entire  twelve 
months  December  1879-November  1880,  inclusive,  occurred  upon  February 
27th,  and  the  lowest  (20° -2)  upon  October  9th,  the  difference  between  the 
highest  and  lowest  maxima  of  the  twelve  months  thus  being  only  3°'8  centi- 
grade (=6°‘84  Falit.). 

The  Bulletin  does  not  record  a single  occasion  on  which  the  freezing- 
point  was  touched  at  Quito.  The  lowest  minimum  (3°. 5)  of  the  entire 
twelve  months  occurred  on  the  12th  of  August,  and  the  highest  (8°'0)  upon 
three  days  in  May,  their  difference  amounting  to  only  4°-5  C.  (=  8°T  Faht.). 

From  inspection  of  the  whole  of  the  observations  printed  in  the  Bulletin, 
it  appears  that  October  was  the  coldest  and  January  was  the  warmest  month 
at  Quito  ; and  that  the  difference  of  the  means  of  these  two  months  amounted 
to  less  than  4°  Faht. ! 1 

The  range  of  the  entire  year,  that  is  to  say,  the  difference  between  the 
lowest  minimum  and  the  highest  maximum,  amounted  at  Quito  to  only 
20“ -5  C.  (=  30° -9  Faht.). 

Temperature  at  several  of  the  towns  at  which  we  stopped  in  the  interior 
appeared  to  be  influenced  by  position  as  well  as  by  altitude.  Thus,  Machachi 
(9839),  although  scarcely  500  feet  higher  than  Quito,  was  found  by  us  to  be 
a chilly  place  as  compared  with  the  capital.  At  the  former  place  it  was 
seldom  as  warm  as  00°  Faht.  at  mid-day,  while  at  Quito  I noted  a higher 
temperature  than  this  upon  several  occasions  at  10  p.m.  Ambato  (8606) 
though  only  433  feet  lower  than  Riobamba  (9039),  seemed  to  possess  a cheer- 
ful degree  of  warmth  ; and  the  latter  place,  although  less  elevated,  appeared 
to  be  colder  than  Quito.  At  Ambato  temperature  ranged  from  65-70°  Faht. 
at  mid-day  during  our  stay  ; and  our  impression  agreed  with  the  opinion 
current  in  the  country  that  it  is  a warm  place.  Upon  this  account  Ecua- 
dorians come  here  from  various  parts  when  holiday-making.® 

The  highest  temperature  in  the  shade  that  we  experienced  anywhere  in 
the  interior,  out  of  doors,  was  at  the  bottom  of  the  ravine  of  Guallabamba 
(6472)  on  March  27,  1880.  This  was  75° -5  Faht.  The  lowest  recorded  dur- 
ing the  whole  journey  was  the  minimum  of  the  night  of  February  18,  1880, 
near  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi,  namely,  13°  Faht.  Upon  several  occasions 
rapid  changes  of  temperature  occurred  in  a short  space  of  time,  the  most 
remarkable  experience  of  this  description  being  that  which  was  referred  to 
in  the  chapter  upon  Antisana.  This,  as  well  as  the  temperatures  observed 
at  other  summits,  has  been  dealt  with  elsewhere. 

Temperatures  which  will  possess  a wider  interest  are  the  nocturnal  minima 
observed  at  our  camping-places,  from  their  being  the  only  recorded  observa- 
tions of  this  nature  made  at  high  elevations  near  the  Equator.  They  are 
brought  together  in  the  annexed  table,  arranged  according  to  altitude,  and 

1 The  thennometric  observations  are  made  at  Quito  at  6 a m.,  2 p.m.,  and  10  p.m. 
'the  means  referred  to  in  the  above  paragraph  are  those  of  these  three  sets  of  observations. 
I have  reason  to  believe  that  the  observations  were  not  made  at  the  Observatory,  but  at 
a lower  and  more  sheltered  position  at  the  extreme  opposite  end  of  the  city. 

- The  temperatures  quoted  in  this  paragraph  are  indoor  ones,  but  owing  to  the  ill- 
fitting  windows  and  to  the  doors  opening  directly  into  the  air  they  differ  little  from  shade 
temperatures  out  of  doors. 


APPENDIX. 


TABLE  OF  NOCTURNAL  MINIMA. 


423 


Date. 

Place  of  Observation. 

Altitude. 

Temp. 

Faht. 

April  7,  1880 

La  Dormida,  Cayambe  . 

11,805  feet 

38° -5 

,,  8,  „ 

Do.  do. 

,,  ,, 

40-5 

June  25,  ,, 

Camp  near  Chuquipoquio 

11,850  ,, 

33-5 

,,  17, 

Do.  in  Valley  of  Collanes  . 

12,540  „ 

29° 

„ 18,  „ 

Do.  do.  do. 

,,  ,, 

33° 

,,  19,  ,, 

Do.  do.  do. 

„ 

33-5 

April  15,  ,, 

Do.  at  Corredor  Machai 

12,779  „ 

39-5 

June  20,  ,, 

Do.  in  Valley  of  Naranjal  . 

13,053  ,, 

34° 

Mar.  G,  „ 

Hacienda  of  Anlisana 

13,306  „ 

34° 

,,  7,  ,, 

Do.  do. 

11  11 

365 

,,  8,  „ 

Do.  do. 

1 1 11 

335 

June  27,  ,, 

Camp  on  Carihuairazo  . 

13,377  ,, 

33° 

April  12,  ,, 

Do.  Sara-urcu 

13,754  „ 

35° 

July  2,  „ 

Fourth  Camp,  Chimborazo 

14,359  ,, 

30° 

Dec.  2G,  1879 

First  do.  do. 

14,375  ,, 

21° 

April  2,  1880 

Camp  on  Cayambe 

14,762  ,, 

27° 

„ 3,  „ 

Do.  do. 

" IT 

31° 

„ 4,  „ 

Do.  do. 

24-5 

„ 5,  ., 

Do.  do. 

11  11 

24° 

Mar.  22,  ,, 

Second  Camp  on  Pichincha  . 

14,992  ,, 

29° 

Feb.  16,  ,, 

First  Camp  on  Cotopaxi 

15,139  „ 

25° 

,,  19,  ,, 

Do.  do.  do.  . 

,,  ,, 

28° 

„ ' 20,  „ 

Do.  do.  do.  . 

„ ,, 

24° 

June  8,  ,, 

Camp  on  X.  side  of  llliniza  . 

15,446  ,, 

26-5 

July  2,  „ 

Fifth  Camp,  Chimborazo 

15,811  „ 

25° 

Dec.  28,  1879 

Second  do.  do. 

16,664  ,, 

21° 

,,  30,  „ 

Do.  do.  do. 

20-5 

,,  31.  ,. 

Do.  do.  do. 

20-5 

Jan.  5,  1880 

Third  do.  do. 

17,285  ,. 

17° 

,,  7,  ,, 

Do.  do.  do. 

11  11 

20° 

Feb.  18,  „ 

Camp  at  summit  of  Cotopaxi  . 

19,500  ,, 

13° 

424 


TEMPERATURES  IN  ECUADOR. 


APPENDIX. 


were  observed  with  a registering  spirit  minimum  thermometer,  by  Casella, 
which,  as  a rule,  was  placed  about  four  feet  on  the  windward  side  of  the 
tent,  in  free  air,  3 feet  6 inches  to  4 feet  from  the  ground.  The  most  dis- 
cordant of  the  readings  is  the  minimum  of  the  night  of  December  2G,  1879. 
[See  pp.  40,  41.] 

If  the  difference  of  altitude  of  the  extremes  of  the  series  is  divided  by 
the  difference  of  the  observed  minima  it  will  be  found  that  the  diminution 
of  temperature  is  at  the  rate  of  one  degree  Fahrenheit  per  296  feet.1  If  the 
observation  near  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi  should  be  rejected  (on  account  of 
the  possibility  that  it  was  considerably  influenced  by  radiation),2  and  the 
remainder  alone  accepted,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  diminution  is  at  the  rate 
of  one  degree  for  about  2G7  feet.3  It  would  seem  probable  that  the  observa- 
tion near  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi  was  not  greatly  affected  by  the  warmth  of 
the  cone. 

It  cannot,  however,  be  doubted  that  the  circumjacent  air  is  often  con- 
siderably affected  by  radiation  from  heated  rock-surfaces  rising  high  above 
the  line  of  perpetual  congelation.  Bare  rock,  much  above  the  snow-line, 
when  exposed  to  sunshine,  often  becomes  heated  to  such  an  extent  as  to  be 
almost  painful  to  the  touch.  This  warmth  is  subsequently  parted  with,  and 
must  affect  the  temperature  of  the  neighbouring  air  to  a material  extent, — 
in  calm  weather,  I imagine,  to  a much  greater  distance  than  four  feet,  the 
recognised  distance  for  placing  thermometers  from  the  soil.  As  the  object, 
when  observing  for  minimum  temperatures,  is  to  register  the  lowest  temper- 
atures that  occur,  the  end  in  view  is  most  likely  to  be  attained  by  placing  the 
thermometer  to  windward,  and  as  far  as  possible  from  the  earth  ; and  should 
this  be  done  on  high  and  isolated  summits  the  observations  will  not  perhaps 
be  much  influenced  by  terrestrial  radiation,  though  they  can  scarcely  fail  to 
be  affected  by  it  to  some  small  extent.  I acted  upon  this  supposition,  and 
hence  the  thermometer  was  not  placed  in  one  invariable  position. 

1 “ We  possess  a great  accumulation  of  observations  of  mountain  temperature,  but 
the  results  are  only  loosely  accordant,  and  appear  to  indicate  that  the  rate  of  increase 
depends  in  some  considerable  degree  on  the  season  of  the  year'  and  the  local  situation  of 
the  place  of  observation.  If  we  assemble  the  most  accordant,  and  especially  those  cases 
where  the  heights  ascended  have  been  considerable,  and  trigonometrically  determined, 
we  find  an  average  decrement  of  1°  of  Fahrenheit’s  thermometer  for  every  100  yards  of 
ascent.  ...  As  a general  average  deduced  from  balloon  ascents,  400  feet  per  degree  of 
Fahrenheit  would  seem  to  be  preferable  to  300.”  Meteorology , by  Sir  John  F.  W. 
Herschell,  pp.  22-3,  2nd  ed.,  Edinburgh,  1862. 

2 See  the  chapter  upon  Cotopaxi. 

3 This  is  a considerably  less  value  per  degree  than  has  been  found  by  Mr.  Glaisher 
upon  his  balloon  ascents  (where  the  observations  have  not  been  affected  by  terrestrial 
radiation).  See  the  Reports  of  the  Rritish  Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science, 
1862-66. 


APPENDIX. 


UPON  BODY  TEMPERATURE. 


425 


F.—UPON  body  temperature. 

The  temperatures  given  in  the  following  table  were  taken  at  the  sugges- 
tion of  Dr.  W.  Marcet,  F.R.S.,  with  a Hicks’  patent  clinical  registering 
thermometer,  graduated  to  fifths  of  degrees,  of  the  kind  which  is  now  almost 
invariably  employed  ; and  the  observations  were  made  exclusively  upon 
myself,  by  placing  the  bulb  of  the  thermometer  as  far  back  under  the  tongue 
as  was  convenient,  and  allowing  it  to  remain  there  (the  mouth  being  closed) 
for  ten  to  twelve  minutes.  In  most  cases  the  observations  were  repeated, 
though  I find  in  practice  that  the  highest  obtainable  temperature  is  regis- 
tered within  ten  minutes. 

My  temperature  is  slightly  lower  than  that  which  is  considered  the 
standard  (namely  98° '4  Faht.),  and  the  mean  of  a large  number  of  observa- 
tions taken  midway  between  meals  would  probably  be  close  to  98° '3  (pro- 
vided the  observations  were  made  at  the  same  part  of  the  body).  The 
extremes  of  the  temperatures  given  in  the  table  are  both  higher  and  lower 
than  I have  remarked  (upon  myself)  on  any  other  occasions. 

After  the  first  experiences  upon  Chimborazo  were  over,  no  effect  was 
observed  that  could  be  attributed  to  diminished  pressure,  and  the  most  severe 
cold  that  we  experienced  seemed  scarcely  to  exert  any  influence.  The  low 
readings  on  the  summits  of  Cayambe  (97° ’1)  and  Chimborazo  (90° ’3)  must 
be  ascribed  to  exertion  and  to  abstinence  from  food,  and  principally  to  the 
latter  cause.  The  following  details,  given  in  chronological  order,  will  render 
any  further  remarks  unnecessary  : — 

Nov.  21,  28  ; Dec.  10,  23,  1879  (98'05-98'4). — The  readings  at  King- 
ston, Colon,  Guayaquil,  and  Guaranda  were  all  taken  indoors,  before  break- 
fast. With  air  temperature  ranging  from  57°  to  80°,  and  barometer  2D990 
to  30’000  inches,  bodily  temperature  varied  only  one-third  of  a degree  Faht. 

Dec.  27  (98'4). — In  tent,  first  camp  on  Chimborazo.  After  breakfast, 
and  before  active  exertion. 

Dec.  28  ( 100  *4). — In  tent,  second  camp  on  Chimborazo.  The  recorded 
temperature  is  probably  considerably  lower  than  that  which  was  experienced 
in  the  previous  night.  In  the  next  six  days  I ate  much  less  than  usual  : 
and  by 

Jan.  2,  1880.  temperature  was  reduced  to  97’9,  at  the  second  camp. 

Jan.  8 (98’4). — In  tent.  Four  days  after  the  first  ascent  of  Chimborazo, 
temperature  had  returned  to  its  ordinary  level,  and  deviated  very  slightly 
from  it  during  the  next  three  months. 

Jan.  29  (98‘45). — Indoors,  two  hours  after  dinner. 


426 


UPON  BODY  TEMPERATURE. 


APPENDIX. 


Feb.  9 (98’65). — Open  air,  in  shade,  at  the  highest  point  attained  on 
the  south  side  of  Illiniza.  Exertion  had  been  severe  and  continuous  since 

8 A.M. 

Feb.  18  (98’2). — In  tent,  close  to  the  summit  of  Cotopaxi.  Taken  after 
ascending  from  the  first  camp  (a  rise  of  about  4400  feet).  Barometer  stood 
at  14'79S  inches.  Experienced  headache  and  gasping  for  breath  on  the 
18th,  but  no  headache  on  the  19th.  Bodily  temperature  did  not  seem 
affected  at  all. 

Feb.  20,  in  tent  ; Mar.  C,  indoors,  do  not  inquire  mention. 

Mar.  10  (98'6). — Open  air,  on  the  summit  of  Antisana.  The  reading 
was  taken  after  a meal.  Exertion  had  been  severe  and  continuous  since 

(!  A.M. 

Mar.  22,  in  cave  : Mar.  25,  indoors,  do  not  require  mention. 

April  3 (99'1). — In  tent,  camp  on  Cayambe.  Felt  feverish,  and  could 
only  attribute  it  to  exposure  on  March  31. 

April  4 (97-l). — Open  air,  on  the  summit  of  Cayambe.  The  reading 
was  taken  one  hour  after  arrival  at  the  summit.  Exertion  had  been  con- 
siderable, and  nothing  had  been  eaten  since  4 a.m. 

June  8 (97-9). — In  tent,  camp  on  north  side  of  Illiniza.  In  the  months 
of  April  and  May  I was  almost  continuously  unwell,  and  frequently  feverish, 
but  by  the  commencement  of  June  bodily  temperature  had  fallen  to  its  usual 
level. ' 

June  28.  29  ; July  1 (07‘ 7—08*4). — On  Carihuairazo.  The  differences 
recorded  on  these  days  are  accounted  for  by  the  readings  having  sometimes 
been  taken  before  and  sometimes  after  meals. 

July  2 (97-8)  — In  tent.  Does  not  require  mention. 

July  3 (96‘3). — Open  air,  on  the  summit  of  Chimborazo.  There  was  a 
moderately  strong  and  cold  wind.  Air  temperature  was  15°  Faht.  Had 
eaten  scarcely  anything  since  5 a.m.  This  was  the  lowest  record  on  the 
journey. 

July  5 (98‘25). — In  tent.  Bodily  temperature  had  by  this  time  risen 
again  to  its  ordinary  level,  and  it  fluctuated  very  slightly  until  return  to 
Panama. 

Aug.  3 (99*2). — Indoors,  at  Panama.  The  increase  is  to  be  attributed 
to  the  hospitality  of  the  residents  on  the  Isthmus  more  than  to  the  deadly 
nature  of  its  climate.  On  August  7 the  maximum  was  attained  (101°),  but 
from  that  time  temperature  commenced  to  diminish,  and  on 

Aug.  14,  at  St.  Thomas,  with  almost  the  highest  air  temperature  which 
was  noted  on  the  entire  journey  (84°),  it  had  again  fallen  to  its  ordinary 
level. 


APPENDIX. 


TABLE  OF  BLOOD  TEMPERATURES. 


427 


Date. 

Hour. 

Place  of  Observation. 

Altitude 
in  feet. 

Blood 

Temp. 

Shade 
temp,  of 
air. 

1879. 
Nov.  21. 

8 a.m. 

Kingston,  Jamaica  . 

Fahr. 

98-05 

Fahr. 

79° 

„ 28. 

7 

Colon,  Isthmus  of  Panama 

98-4 

80° 

Dec.  10. 

7 99 

Guayaquil,  Ecuador  . 

30 

98-2  ' 

76° 

„ 23. 

7.30  ,, 

Guaranda,  do. 

8,894 

98-2 

57° 

„ 27. 

10.30  „ 

Chimborazo,  First  Camp  . 

14,375 

98-4 

51°-5 

,.  28. 

1 p.m. 

Do.  Second  do. 

1G,664 

100-4 

49° 

1880. 
Jan.  2. 

7 a.m. 

Do.  do.  do. 

97-9 

34-5 

„ 8. 

11.30  ,. 

Do.  Third  do.  . 

17,285 

98-4 

51° 

„ 29. 

4.30  p.m. 

Machachi 

9,839 

98-45 

60° 

Feb.  9. 

1.25  „ 

Illiniza,  South  side  . 

17,023 

98-65 

49-5 

» 18. 

4 

Cotopaxi,  Second  Camp 

19,500 

98-2 

55° 

„ 20. 

12.30  „ 

Do.  First  do. 

15,139 

98- 

41° 

Mar.  G. 

8.15  „ 

Hacienda  of  Antisana 

13,306 

98- 

41° 

» 10- 

11.10  a.m. 

Antisana,  Summit 

19,335 

98-6 

47° 

22. 

10  p.m. 

Pichincha,  Second  Camp  . 

14,992 

98-1 

39° 

„ 25. 

8 a.m. 

Quito  . . . 

9,343 

98- 

57° 

Apr.  3. 

4.30  p.m. 

Cayambe,  Camp  on  . 

14,762 

99-1 

42° 

„ 4. 

11.15  a.m. 

Do.  Summit  . 

19,186 

97-1 

38° 

June  8. 

8 p.m. 

Illiniza,  Camp  N.  side 

15,446 

97-9 

45° 

„ 11. 

4 „ 

Machachi 

9,839 

98-5 

60° 

G.15 

Do.  ... 

,, 

98-4 

55° 

„ 28. 

4 

Carihuairazo,  Camp  on 

13,377 

98- 

51° 

,,  9 9 

5.40  „ 

Do.  do. 

98-1 

48° 

,,  29. 

11  a.m. 

Do.  Summit 

16.515 

98-4 

40° 

July  1. 

8.30  „ 

Do.  Camp  . 

13,377 

97-7 

44-5 

O 

9.15  p.m. 

Chimborazo,  Fifth  Camp  . 

15,811 

97-8 

36° 

Q 

9 9 O. 

o 

Do.  -Summit 

20,498 

96-3 

15° 

99 

9 a.m. 

Do.  Sixth  Camp  . 

13,353 

98-25 

52-5 

„ 17. 

9 p.m. 

Guayaquil 

30 

98-5 

74-5 

Aug.  3. 

G.45  a.m. 

Panama  .... 

60 

99-2 

78° 

„ G. 

»•«  , 

Colon  .... 

20 

100-6 

80° 

99  i • 

9 a.m. 

Between  Colon  and  Jamaica 

101- 

81°-83° 

,,  8. 

7.30  „ 

Do.  do. 

99- 

83° 

,,  9. 

8.30  ., 

Kingston,  Jamaica  . 

98-9 

83-5 

„ 14. 

8 

St.  Thomas 

98-2 

84° 

428  HUMBOLDT'S  ATTEMPT  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO,  app. 


G.— HUMBOLDT’S  ATTEMPT  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO. 


“On  June  9,  1802,  the  travellers  left  Quito  for  Chimborazo,  and  on 
June  23  they  climbed  almost  to  the  summit  of  the  giant  mountain,  at  that 
time  regarded  as  the  highest  in  the  world,  and  attained  the  height  never 
before  reached  by  any  human  being  of  18,09(1  feet.1  Upon  reaching  an 
elevation  of  15,600  feet,  the  path,  relates  Humboldt,  became  every  moment 
narrower  and  steeper.  The  natives,  with  one  exception,  refused  to  accom- 
pany us  farther,  and  were  deaf  to  entreaties  and  threatenings,  maintaining 
they  suffered  more  than  we  did  from  the  rarity  of  the  air.  We  were  left 
alone — Bonpland,  our  estimable  friend  Carlos  Montufar,  a half-caste  Indian 
from  the  neighbouring  village  of  San  Juan,  and  myself. 

“By  dint  of  great  exertion  and  considerable  patience,  we  reached  a 
greater  height  than  we  had  dared  to  hope  for,  seeing  we  had  been  almost 
constantly  enveloped  in  mist.  In  many  places  the  ridge  was  not  wider  than 
from  eight  to  ten  inches  ! To  our  left  a precipice  covered  with  snow,  the 
surface  of  which  shone  like  glass  from  the  effects  of  frost.  This  thin  sheet 
of  ice  was  at  an  inclination  of  about  30°.  On  the  right  was  a fearful  abyss, 
from  800  to  1000  feet  deep,  from  the  sides  of  which  projected  huge  masses 
of  naked  rock.  We  leant  over  rather  more  to  this  side  than  the  other,  for  it 
seemed  less  to  be  dreaded  than  the  precipice  on  our  left,  where  the  smooth 
sides  afforded  no  opportunity  of  checking  a fall  by  catching  hold  of  project- 
ing pieces  of  rock,  and  where  the  thin  crust  of  ice  furnished  no  security 
against  being  precipitated  into  the  loose  snow  beneath.2 

“The  sloping  surface  of  snow  extended  to  such  a distance  that  light 
pieces  of  dolerite  (the  only  substance  at  hand),  when  rolled  down  the  incline, 
were  lost  sight  of  before  reaching  any  resting-place. 

“The  rock  became  more  friable,  and  the  ascent  increasingly  difficult  and 
dangerous.  At  certain  places  where  it  was  very  steep,  we  were  obliged  to 
use  both  hands  and  feet,  and  the  edges  of  the  rock  were  so  sharp  that  we 
were  painfully  cut,  especially  on  our  hands.  . . . The  loose  position  of  the 
stones  upon  the  narrow  ridge  necessitated  extreme  caution,  since  many 
masses  that  appeared  to  be  firmly  attached  proved  to  be  only  embedded  in 
sand. 

“We  advanced  all  the  more  slowly,  as  everyplace  that  seemed  insecure 
had  first  to  be  tested.  Fortunately,  the  attempt  to  reach  the  summit  of 

1 It  will  be  seen  at  a later  point  there  is  a claim  to  have  reached  the  height  of  19,286 
feet. — E.  W. 

2 At  p.  308,  vol.  i.,  of  K.  Bruhns’  Life  of  Humboldt  the  following  significant  sen- 
tence occurs : “ We  feared  nothing  so  much  as  the  half-frozen  snow.”  This  is  said  in 
connection  with  an  ascent  of  Pichincha.— E.  W. 


apf.  HUMBOLDT'S  ATTEMPT  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO.  429 


Chimborazo  had  been  reserved  for  our  last  enterprise  among  the  mountains 
of  South  America,  so  that  we  had  gained  some  experience,  and  knew  how 
far  we  could  rely  on  our  own  powers.  It  is  a peculiar  characteristic  of  all 
excursions  on  the  Andes,  that  beyond  the  line  of  perpetual  snow  Europeans 
are  always  left  without  guides  just  at  the  point  where,  from  their  complete 
ignorance  of  the  locality,  help  is  most  needed.  In  everything  Europeans  are 
left  to  take  the  lead. 

“ We  could  no  longer  see  the  summit,  even  by  glimpses,  and  were  there- 
fore doubly  anxious  to  ascertain  how  much  of  the  ascent  had  still  to  be 
accomplished.  We  opened  the  tube  barometer  at  a spot  where  the  ridge  was 
wide  enough  to  allow  two  persons  to  stand  side  by  side  in  safety.  We  were 
only  at  an  elevation  of  17,300  feet,  therefore  scarcely  200  feet  higher  than 
we  had  attained  three  months  previously  upon  the  Antisana. 

“After  an  hour's  cautious  climbing,  the  ridge  of  rock  became  less  steep, 
but  the  mist  unfortunately  remained  as  thick  as  ever.  One  after  another 
we  all  began  to  feel  indisposed,  and  experienced  a feeling  of  nausea  accom- 
panied by  giddiness,  which  was  far  more  distressing  than  the  difficulty  of 
breathing.  . . . Blood  exuded  from  the  lips  and  gums,  and  the  eyes  became 
bloodshot.  There  was  nothing  particularly  alarming  to  us  in  these  symptoms, 
with  which  we  had  grown  familiar  by  experience.  Once  when  upon  the 
Pichincha,  though  bleeding  did  not  occur.  T was  seized  with  such  violent 
pain  in  the  stomach  and  overpowering  giddiness,  that  I sank  upon  the 
ground  in  a state  of  insensibility,  in  which  condition  I was  found  by  my 
companions,  from  whom  I had  withdrawn  for  the  sake  of  making  some 
experiments  in  electricity.  The  elevation  then  was  not  so  great,  being  less 
than  13,800  feet.  On  the  Antisana,  however,  at  a height  of  17,022  feet, 
our  young  travelling  companion.  Don  Carlos  Montufar,  had  suffered  severely 
from  bleeding  of  the  lips.  All  these  phenomena  vary  greatly  in  different 
individuals  according  to  age,  constitution,  tenderness  of  the  skin,  and  pre- 
vious exertion  of  muscular  power  : yet  in  the  same  individual  they  constitute 
a kind  of  gauge  for  the  amount  of  rarefaction  of  the  atmosphere  and  for  the 
absolute  height  that  has  been  attained. 

“ The  stratum  of  mist  which  had  hidden  every  distant  object  from  our 
view  began,  notwithstanding  the  perfect  calm,  suddenly  to  dissipate — an 
effect  probably  due  to  the  action  of  electricity.  We  recognized  once  more 
the  dome-shaped  summit  of  Chimborazo,  now  in  close  proximity.  It  was  a 
grand  and  solemn  spectacle,  and  the  hope  of  attaining  the  object  of  all  our 
efforts  animated  us  with  renewed  strength.  The  ridge  of  rock,  only  here 
and  there  covered  with  a thin  sprinkling  of  snow,  became  somewhat  wider  ; 
and  we  were  hurrying  forward  with  assured  footsteps,  when  our  further  pro- 
gress was  suddenly  stopped  by  a ravine,  some  400  feet  deep  and  GO  feet 
wide,  which  presented  an  insurmountable  barrier  to  our  undertaking.  We 
could  see  clearly  that  the  ridge  on  which  we  stood  continued  in  the  same 
direction  on  the  other  side  of  the  ravine  ; but  I was  doubtful  whether,  after 
all,  it  really  led  to  the  summit.  There  was  no  means  of  getting  round  the 
cleft.  On  Antisana,  after  a night  of  severe  frost.  Bonpland  had  been  able  to 
travel  a considerable  distance  upon  the  frozen  surface  of  snow  ; but  here  the 


430  HUMBOLDT'S  ATTEMPT  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO,  app. 


softness  of  the  snowy  mass  prohibited  such  an  attempt,  and  the  nature  of  the 
declivity  rendered  it  equally  impossible  to  scale  the  sides. 

“ It  was  now  one  o'clock  in  the  day.  We  fixed  up  the  barometer  with 
great  care,  and  found  it  stood  at  thirteen  inches  11-ft-  lines.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  air  was  only  three  degrees  below  the  freezing-point  ; but  from 
our  long  residence  in  the  tropics  even  this  amount  of  cold  seemed  quite 
benumbing.  Our  boots  were  wet  through  with  snow-water,  for  the  sand, 
which  here  and  there  lav  on  the  mountain  ridge,  was  mixed  with  the 
remains  of  former  snow-drifts.  According  to  the  barometric  formula  given 
by  Laplace,  we  had  now  reached  an  elevation  of  19,286  English  feet. 

‘•We  remained  but  a short  time  in  this  dreary  waste,  for  we  were  soon 
again  enveloped  in  mist,  which  hung  about  us  motionless.  We  saw  nothing 
more  of  the  summit  of  Chimborazo,  nor  of  the  neighbouring  snow  mountains, 
far  less  of  the  elevated  plain  of  Quito.  We  were  isolated  as  in  a balloon  ; a 
few  rock  lichens  were  to  be  observed  above  the  line  of  perpetual  snow,  at  a 
height  of  16,920  feet  ; the  last  green  moss  we  noticed  was  growing  about 
2000  feet  lower.  A butterfly  was  captured  by  M.  Bonpland,  at  a height  of 
15,000  feet,  and  a fly  was  observed  1000  feet  higher  ; both  had  been  carried 
up  into  the  higher  regions  of  the  atmosphere  by  the  currents  of  air  originating 
in  the  warmer  plains  below. 

“ As  the  weather  became  increasingly  threatening,  we  hurried  down 
along  the  ridge  of  rock,  and  from  the  insecurity  of  our  footing  found  that 
greater  caution  even  was  necessary  than  during  the  ascent.  We  delayed  no 
longer  than  sufficed  for  collecting  fragments  of  rock  as  specimens  of  the 
mountain  structure.  We  foresaw  that  in  Europe  we  should  frequently  be 
asked  for  ‘a  fragment  from  Chimborazo .’ 

“When  we  were  at  a height  of  about  17,400  feet,  we  encountered  a 
violent  hailstorm,  which  gave  place  to  snow  twenty  minutes  before  passing 
the  limit  of  perpetual  snow,  and  the  flakes  were  so  thick  that  the  ridge  was 
soon  covered  several  inches  deep.  The  danger  would  indeed  have  been  great 
had  the  snow  overtaken  us  at  a height  of  18,000  feet.  At  a few  minutes  past 
two  we  reached  the  spot  where  we  had  left  the  mules." — Life  of  Humboldt, 
by  Karl  liruhns,  vol.  i.  pp.  311-315.  London,  1873. 


BOUSSiy GAULT'S  ATTEMPTS  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO.  431 


H.— BOUSSINGAULT’S  ATTEMPTS  TO  ASCEND 
CHIMBORAZO. 

[Ascension  au  Chimborazo  executes  le  10  decembre,  1831,  par 
M.  Boussingault.] 

“Je  ne  pouvais  mieux  terminer  mes  recherches  sur  les  trachytes  des 
Cordillieres,  que  par  une  etude  speciale  du  Chimborazo.  . . . J’expose  ainsi 
les  raisons  qui  m'ont  conduit  sur  le  Chimborazo,  parce  que  je  blame  haute- 
ment  les  excursions  perilleuses  sur  les  montagnes,  quand  elles  ne  sont  pas 
entreprises  dans  1'interet  de  la  science. 

“ De  Riobamba,  le  Chimborazo  presente  deux  pentes  d’une  inclinaison 
tres  differente.  L’une,  celle  qui  regarde  l’Arenal,  est  tres  abrupte  ; et  l’on 
voit  sortir  de  dessous  la  glace  de  nombreux  pics  de  trachyte.  L’autre  qui 
descend  vers  le  site  appele  Chillapullu,  non  loin  de  Mocha,  est  au  contraire 
peu  inclinee,  mais  d’une  etendue  considerable.  Apres  avoir  bien  examine 
les  environs  de  la  montagne,  ce  fut  par  cette  pente  que  nous  resolumes  de 
l’attaquer.  Le  14  decembre,  1831,  nous  allames  prendre  gite  dans  la  me- 
tairie  du  Chimborazo.  ...  La  metairie  se  trouve  a 3800  metres  de  hauteur. 

“ Le  15  a sept  heures  du  matin,  nous  nous  mimes  en  route  guides  par 
un  Indien  de  la  metairie.  . . . Nous  suivimes  en  le  remontant  un  ruisseau 
encaisse  entre  deux  murs  de  trachyte,  dont  les  eaux  descendent  du  glacier  : 
bientot  nous  quittames  cette  crevasse  pour  nous  diriger  vers  Mocha,  en 
longeant  la  base  du  Chimborazo.  Nous  nous  elevions  insen siblement  : nos 
millets  marchaient  avec  peine  et  difficulte,  au  milieu  des  debris  de  roehe 
qui  sont  accumules  au  pied  de  la  montagne.  La  pente  devenait  tres  rapide, 
le  sol  etait  meuble  et  les  inulets  s’arretaient  presque  a chaque  pas  pour  faire 
une  longue  pause,  ils  n’obeissaient  plus  a l'eperon.  La  respiration  de  ces 
animaux  etait  precipitee,  haletante.  Nous  etions  alors  precisement  a la 
hauteur  du  Mont  Blanc,  car  le  barometre  indiqua  une  elevation  de  4808 
metres  au  dessus  du  niveau  de  la  mer. 

“Apres  nous  etre  couvert  le  visage  avec  des  masques  de  taffetas 
leger,  afin  de  nous  preserver  des  accidens  que  nous  avions  ressentis  sur 
l’Antisana,  nous  commen9ames  a gravir  une  arete  que  aboutit  a un  point 
deja  tres  eleve  du  glacier.  II  etait  midi.  Nous  montions  lentement,  et,  a 
mesure  que  nous  nous  engagions  sur  la  neige,  la  difficulte  de  respirer  en 
marchant  se  faisait  de  plus  en  plus  sentir,  nous  retablissions  aisement  nos 
forces  en  nous  arret  ant,  sans  toutefois  nous  asseoir,  tous  les  huit  ou  dix  pas. 

. . . Nous  atteignimes  bientot  un  rocher  noir  qui  s’elevait  au  dessus  de 
l'arete  que  nous  suivions.  Nous  continuames  encore  a nous  elever  pendant 
quelque  temps,  mais  non  sans  eprouver  beaucoup  de  fatigue  occasionee  par 
le  peu  de  c-onsistance  d’un  sol  neigeux  qui  s’affaissait  sans  cesse  sous  nos  pas, 
et  dans  lequel  nous  enfoncions  quelquefois  jusqu’a  la  ceinture.  Malgre 


432  BOUSSING  AULT'S  ATTEMPTS  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO. 


tous  nos  efforts,  nous  fumes  bientot  convaincus  de  l'impossibilite  de  passer 
en  avant  ; en  effet,  un  pen  au  dela  de  la  roche  noire,  la  neige  meuble  avait 
]>lus  de  quatre  pieds  de  profondeur.  Nous  allames  nous  reposer  sur  un  bloc 
de  trachyte  qui  ressemblait  a une  lie  au  milieu  d'une  mer  de  neige.  Nous 
etions  a 5115  metres  d'elevation.  II  etait  une  heure  et  demie.  Ainsi 
apres  beaucoup  de  fatigues,  nous  nous  etions  seulement  eleves  de  307  metres 
au  dessus  du  point  oil  nous  avions  mis  pied  a terre. 

‘•En  quelques  instans  nous  etions  descendus  la  oil  nous  avions  laisse  nos 
millets.  J’emplovai  quelques  momens  a examiner  cette  partie  de  la  mon- 
tagne  en  geologue,  et  a recueillir  une  suite  de  roches.  A trois  heures  et 
demie  nous  nous  mimes  en  route.  A six  heures  nous  etions  rendus  a la 
metairie. 

‘"Le  temps  avait  ete  magnifique,  jamais  le  Chimborazo  ne  nous  parut 
aussi  majestueux,  mais  apres  notre  course  infructueuse,  nous  ne  pouvions  le 
regarder  sans  eprouver  un  sentiment  de  depit.  Nous  resolumes  de  tenter 
1‘ascension  par  le  cote  abrupte,  c’est-a-dire  par  la  pente  qui  regarde  l’Arenal. 
Nous  savions  que  c’etait  par  ce  cote  que  M.  de  Humboldt  s 'etait  eleve  sur 
cette  montagne  ; on  nous  avait  bien  montre  de  Rio-Bamba  le  point  ou  il  etait 
parvenu,  mais  il  nous  fut  impossible  d’obtenir  des  renseignemens  exacts  sur 
la  route  qu’il  avait  suivie  pour  v arriver.  Les  Indiens  qui  avaient  accom- 
pagne  cet  intrepide  voyageur  n’existaient  plus. 

“ Il  etait  sept  heures  quand,  le  lendemain,  nous  prenions  la  route  de 
l’Arenal.  ...  A raesure  que  nous  avancions,  le  terrain  s’elevait  d’une 
maniere  sensible.  En  general,  les  plateaux  trachytiques  qui  supportent  les 
pics  isoles  dont  les  Andes  sont  comme  herissees,  se  relevent  peu  a peu  vers  la 
base  de  ces  memes  pics.  Les  crevasses  nombreuses  et  profondes  qui  sillon- 
nent  ces  plateaux,  semblent  toutes  diverger  d’un  centre  commun  ; elles  se 
retrecissent  en  meme  temps  qu'elles  s'eloignent  de  ce  centre.  On  ne  saurait 
mieux  les  comparer  qu’a  ces  fcntes  que  1'on  remarque  a la  surface  d’un  verre 
etoile.  A neuf  heures,  nous  fimes  halte  pour  dejeuner  a l'ombre  d’un 
enorme  bloc  de  trachyte  auquel  nous  donnames  le  nom  de  Pedron  del 
Almuerzo.  Je  fis  la  une  observation  barometrique,  paree  que  j'avais  l’espoir 
d’y  observer  egalement  vers  quatre  heures  apres  midi,  afin  de  connaitre,  a 
cette  elevation,  la  variation  diurne  du  barometre.  Le  Pedron  est  eleve  de 
4335  metres.  Nous  depassames  sur  nos  mulets  la  limite  des  neiges.  Nous 
etions  a 4945  metres  de  hauteur  quand  nous  mimes  pied  a terre.  Le  terrain 
devint  alors  tout  a fait  impracticable  aux  mulets  ; ces  animaux  cherchaient, 
d'ailleurs  a nous  faire  comprendre  avec  leur  instinct  vraiment  extraordinaire, 
la  lassitude  qu’ils  eprouvaient  ; leurs  oreilles  ordinairement  si  droites  et  si 
attentives,  etaient  entierement  abattues,  et  pendant  des  haltes  frequentes 
qu’ils  faisaient  pour  respirer,  ils  ne  cessaient  de  regarder  vers  la  plaine. 
Peu  d’eeuvers  ont  probablement  conduit  leur  monture  il  une  semblable 
elevation  ; et  pour  arriver  a dos  de  mulets,  sur  un  sol  mouvant  au  dela  de 
la  limite  des  neiges,  il  fallait  peut-etre  avoir  fait  plusieurs  annees  d'equitation 
dans  les  Andes. 

“Apres  avoir  examine  la  localite  dans  laquelle  nous  nous  etions  places, 
nous  reconnumes  que  pour  gagner  une  arete  qui  montait  vers  le  sommet  du 
Chimborazo,  nous  devions  d’abord  gravir  une  pente  excessivement  rapide,  qui 
se  presentait  devant  nous.  Elle  etait  formee  en  grande  partie  de  blocs  de 


BOUSSING  AULT’S  ATTEMPTS  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO.  433 


roche  de  toutes  grosseurs  disposes  en  talus  ; <?a  et  la  ces  fragmens  t rachy- 
tiques  etaient  recouverts  par  des  nappes  de  glace  plus  ou  moins  etendues  ; et 
sur  plusieurs  points,  on  pouvait  clairement  apercevoir  que  ces  debris  de  roche 
reposaient  sur  de  la  neige  endurcie. 

“ II  etait  dix  heures  trois  quarts  quand  nous  avions  laisse  nos  millets  ; tant 
que  nous  marchions  sur  les  rochers,  nous  n’eprouvions  pas  de  grande  difficult^, 
on  aurait  dit  que  nous  montions  un  escalier  en  mauvais  etat  ; ce  qu'il  y avait 
de  plus  penible,  c’etait  l’attention  soutenue  qu’il  fallait  avoir  pour  choisir  la 
pierre  sur  laquelle  on  put  poser  le  pied  avec  quelque  securite.  Nous  re- 
prenions  haleine  tous  les  six  ou  huit  pas,  mais  sans  nous  asseoir,  et  souvent 
meme  ce  repos  etait  utilise  a tailler  pour  ma  collection  des  eehantillons 
geologiques.  Mais  aussitot  que  nous  atteignions  une  surface  neigeuse,  la 
chaleur  du  soleil  devenait  suffocante,  notre  respiration  penible,  et  par  conse- 
quent nos  repos  plus  frequens,  plus  necessaires. 

“A  11  heures  f,  nous  achevions  de  traverser  une  nappe  de  glace  assez 
etendue,  sur  laquelle  il  nous  avait  fallu  faire  des  entailles  pour  assurer  nos 
pas.  Ce  passage  ne  s’etait  pas  fait  sans  danger,  une  glissade  eut  coute  la  vie. 
Nous  enframes  de  nouveau  sur  des  debris  de  trachyte,  c’etait  pour  nous  la 
ter  re  ferine,  et  des  lors  il  nous  fut  permis  de  nous  elever  un  pen  plus  rapide- 
ment.  Nous  marchions  en  file,  moi  d’abord,  puis  le  colonel  Hall,  mon  negre 
venait  ensuite  ; il  suivait  exactement  nos  pas,  afin  de  ne  pas  compromettre 
la  surete  des  instrumens  qui  lui  etaient  confies. 

“ Bientot  nous  eumes  atteint  1’arete  que  nous  devions  suivre.  Cette  arete 
n’etait  pas  telle  cpie  nous  l’avions  jugee  dans  le  lointain  ; elle  ne  portait,  a 
la  verite,  que  tres  peu  de  neige,  mais  elle  presentait  des  escarpemens  dilfieiles 
a escalader.  Il  fallut  faire  des  efforts  inouis  ; et  la  gvmnastique  est  penible 
dans  ces  regions  aeriennes.  Enfin,  nous  arrivames  au  pied  d’un  mur  de 
trachyte,  coupe  a pic,  qui  avait  plusieurs  centaines  de  metres  de  hauteur. 
Il  y eut  un  moment  visible  de  deeouragement  dans  l’expedition,  quand  le 
barometre  nous  eut  appris  que  nous  etions  seulement  a 5680  metres  d’eleva- 
tion.  C’etait  peu  pour  nous,  car  ce  n’etait  pas  meme  la  hauteur  a 
laquelle  nous  nous  etions  places  sur  le  Cotopaxi.  D’ailleurs,  M.  de 
Humboldt  avait  gravi  plus  liaut  sur  le  Chimborazo,  et  nous  voulions  au  moins 
atteindre  la  station  a laquelle  s’etait  arrete  ce  savant  voyageur.  Les  explora- 
teurs  de  montagne,  lorsqu’ils  sont  decourages,  sont  tou jours  fort  disposes  a 
s’asseoir  : c’est  ce  que  nous  fimes  a la  station  de  la  Pena-Colorada  (Rocher- 
Rouge).  C’etait  le  premier  repos  assis  que  nous  nous  permettions ; nous 
avions  tous  une  soif  excessive,  aussi  notre  premiere  occupation  fut-elle  de 
sucer  des  gla£ons  pour  nous  desalterer. 

“ Il  etait  midi  trois  quarts,  et  cependant  nous  ressentions  un  froid  assez 
vif  : le  thermometre  s’etait  abaisse  a 0°,  4.  Nous  nous  trouvions  alors  en- 
veloppes  dans  un  image. 

****** 

“ Lorsque  le  nuage  dans  lequel  nous  etions  plonges  fut  dissipe,  nous  exami- 
names  notre  situation  ; en  regardant  le  Rocher  Rouge,  nous  avions  a notre 
droite  un  abime  epouvantable  ; a gauche,  vers  l’Arenal,  on  distinguait  une 
roche  avancee  qui  ressemblait  a un  belvedere  ; il  etait  important  d’y  parvenir, 
afin  de  reconnaitre  s’il  etait  possible  de  tourner  le  Rocher  Rouge,  et  de  voir  en 


434  BOUSSINGA ULT’S  ATTEMPTS  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO. 


raerae  temps  s’il  etait  permis  de  monter  encore.  L’acces  de  ce  belvedere  etait 
scabreux,  j'y  parvins  cependant  avec  l'aide  de  mes  deux  eompagnons.  Je 
reconnus  alors  que  si  nous  pouvions  gravir  une  surface  de  neige  tres  inclinee, 
qui  s’appuyait  sur  une  face  du  Rocher  Rouge  opposee  au  cote  par  lequel  nous 
l’avions  aborde,  nous  pourrions  atteindre  une  elevation  plus  considerable. 
Pour  se  faire  une  idee  assez  nette  de  la  topographie  du  Chimborazo,  qu'on  se 
figure  un  immense  rocher  soutenu  de  tous  cotes  par  des  ares-boutans.  Les 
aretes  sont  les  arcs-boutans  qui,  de  la  plaine,  semblent  s’appuyer  sur  cet 
enorme  bloc  pour  l’etayer. 

“ Avant  d’entreprendre  ce  passage  dangereux,  j’ordonnai  a mon  negre  d'aller 
essayer  la  neige;  elle  etait  d'une  consistance  convenable.  Hall  et  le  negre 
reussirent  a tourner  le  pied  de  la  position  que  j’occupais,  je  me  reunis  a eux 
lorsqu’ils  furent  assez  solidement  etablis  pour  me  recevoir,  car  pour  les  re- 
joindre,  il  fallut  descendre  en  glissant  environ  25  pieds  de  glace. 

“ Nous  avancions  avec  precaution;  adroite  nous  pouvions  nous  appuyer  sur 
le  rocher  ; a gauche  la  pente  etait  effrayante,  et  avant  de  nous  engager  en  avant, 
nous  commen^ames  par  bien  nous  familiariser  avec  le  precipice.  . . . 

“Nous  commencions  deja  a ressentir  plus  que  nous  ne  l’avions  jamais 
eprouve,  l’effet  de  la  rarefaction  dc  Fair  ; nous  etions  forces  de  nous  arreter 
tous  les  deux  ou  trois  pas,  et  souvent  meme  de  nous  coucher  pendant  quelques 
secondes.  Une  fois  assis,  nous  nous  reinettions  a l’instant  meme  ; ‘notre  souf- 
france  n’avait  lieu  que  pendant  le  mouvement.  La  neige  presenta  bientot 
une  circonstance  qui  rendit  notre  marehe  aussi  lente  que  dangereuse  ; il  n’y 
avait  guere  que  trois  ou  quatre  pouces  de  neige  molle  ; au  dessous  se  trouvait 
une  glace  tres  dure  et  glissante  ; nous  fumes  obliges  de  faire  des  entailles  dans 
cette  glace  afin  d’assurer  nos  pas.  ...  La  neige  devint  plus  favorable, 
nous  fimes  un  dernier  effort,  et  a une  heure  trois  quarts  nous  etions  sur 
1’arete  si  desiree.  La,  nous  fumes  convaincus  qu’il  etait  impossible  de  faire 
plus,  nous  nous  trouvions  au  pied  d'un  prisme  de  trachyte  dont  la  base  superi- 
eure,  recouverte  d'une  coupole  de  neige,  forme  le  sommet  du  Chimborazo. 

“L’arete  sur  laquelle  nous  etions  parvenus  avait  seulement  quelques  pieds 
de  largeur.  De  toutes  parts  nous  etions  environnes  de  precipices,  nos  alen- 
tours  offraient  les  accidens  les  plus  bizarres.  La  couleur  foncee  de  la  roehe 
contrastait  de  la  maniere  la  plus  tranchee  avec  la  blancheur  eblouissante  de 
la  neige.  De  longues  stalagmites  de  glace  paraissaient  suspendues  sur  nos 
teles  ; on  eut  dit  une  magnifique  cascade  qui  venait  de  se  geler. 

“Nous  etions  a 0004  metres  de  hauteur  absolue  ; c’est,  je  erois,  la  plus 
grande  elevation  a laquelle  les  homines  se  soient  encore  eleves  sur  les 
montagnes. 

“A  2 heures,  le  mercure  se  soutenait  dans  le  barometre  a 371  mm.  1 
(13  pouces  8 lig.  £),  le  thermometre  du  barometre  etait  a 7°,  8 C.  A l'ombre 
d’un  rocher,  le  thermometre  libre  indiqua  egalement  7°,  8. 

****** 

“Pendant  tout  le  temps  que  nous  etions  occupes  a faire  nos  observations 
sur  le  Chimborazo,  le  temps  setait  maintenu  de  toute  beaute  ; le  soleil  etait 
assez  chaud  pour  nous  incommoder  legerement.  Vers  trois  heures,  nous  aper- 
9umes  quelques  images  qui  se  formaient  en  bas,  dans  la  plaine  ; le  tonnerre 
gronda  bientot,  au  dessous  de  notre  station  ; le  bruit  etait  peu  intense,  mais 


BOUSSINGAULT’S  ATTEMPTS  TO  ASCEND  CHIMBORAZO.  435 


il  etait  prolonge  ; nous  pensames  d'abord  que  c’etait  un  bramido,  un  rugisse- 
raent  souterrain.  Des  images  obscurs  ne  tarderent  pas  a entourer  la  base  de 
la  montagne  ; ils  s’elevaient  vers  nous  avec  lenteur  : nous  n’avions  pas  de 
temps  a perdre,  car  il  fallait  passer  les  mauvais  pas  avant  d’etre  envahis, 
autrement  nous  eussions  eouru  les  plus  grands  dangers.  Une  chute  abon- 
dante  de  neige,  ou  une  gelee  qui  eut  rendu  le  chemin  glissant,  suffisait  pour 
empeeher  notre  retour,  et  nous  n’avions  aucune  provision  pour  sejourner  sur 
le  glacier. 

“ La  deseente  fut  penible.  Apres  nous  etre  abaisses  de  300  a 400  metres, 
nous  penetraines  dans  les  images,  en  y entrant  par  la  partie  superieure  ; un 
pen  plus  bas,  il  commenga  a tomber  dti  gresil,  qui  refroidit  considerablement 
Fair,  et  au  moment  ou  nous  retrouvames  l’lndien  qui  gardait  nos  millets,  le 
image  langa  sur  nous  une  grele  assez  grosse  pour  nous  faire  eprouver  une  sensa- 
tion douloureuse,  lorsqu’elle  nous  atteignait  sur  les  mains  ou  dans  la  figure. 

“A  quatre  lieures  trois  quarts  j’ouvris  mon  barometre  au  Pedron  del 
Almuerzo.  ...  A mesure  que  nous  descendions,  une  pluie  glaciale  se 
melait  a la  grele.  La  nuit  nous  surprit  en  chemin  ; il  etait  huit  heures 
quand  nous  entrames  dans  la  metairie  du  Chimborazo.” — Annates  de  Cliimie 
et  de  Physique,  par  MM.  Gay-Lussac  et  Arago,  tome  Iviii,  2me  serie,  pp.  150- 
175.  Paris,  1835. 

I.— DECLARATION  OF  FRANCISCO  J.  CAMPANA. 

Upon  our  return  to  Guayaquil  I caused  Campana  to  make  a declaration 
before  the  British  Consul  touching  what  he  knew  relating  to  the  second 
ascent  of  Chimborazo.  A translation  of  this  document  is  appended. 

| Translation.] 

“ I,  Javier  Campana  of  Quito,  hereby  declare  that  upon  July  3,  1880,  I 
accompanied  Mr.  Edward  Whymper  to  the  very  highest  point  of  the  summit 
of  Chimborazo.  We  were  also  accompanied  by  Jean-Antoine  Carrel  and  by 
Louis  Carrel  (Mr.  Whymper’s  two  Italian  mountaineers),  and  by  David 
Beltran  of  Machachi. 

*'  Mr.  Whymper  placed  his  tent  on  July  2,  1880,  on  the  north-west  side 
of  Chimborazo,  at  a height,  so  he  tells  me,  of  about  10.000  feet,  and  he  pro- 
vided for  the  use  of  myself  and  of  David  the  things  which  were  necessary  for 
an  ascent,  namely,  good  strong  boots  with  large  nails,  warm  gloves,  and 
spectacles  to  protect  the  eyes  against  the  glare  of  the  snow,  and  ice-axes  to 
help  us  along. 

“ We  started  from  the  tent  at  5T5  on  the  morning  of  July  3,  1880.  and 
at  once  commenced  to  ascend  towards  the  summit.  The  way  at  first  was 
over  loose  stones,  but  after  we  had  ascended  for  about  1000  feet  we  came  to 
snow,  and  the  remainder  of  the  ascent  was  entirely  over  snow,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  or  two  little  places  where  rocks  came  through  the  snow.  We 
stopped  to  eat  on  one  of  these  little  patches  of  rock  at  8.35  a.m.,  and 
after  Mr.  Whymper  had  examined  his  mercurial  barometer  he  encouraged 
us  to  proceed  by  telling  us  that  we  had  already  got  more  than  half-way  up 
from  the  tent.  From  this  place  we  saw  the  sea. 


4,36 


DECLARATION  OF  FRANCISCO  J.  CAM  PAN  A.  appendix. 


“We  went  on  again  at  9.5  a.m.  and  found  the  snow  get  steeper  and 
steeper.  We  were  all  tied  together  with  a good  strong  rope,  in  case  any  one 
should  slip,  and  except  for  this  and  for  t he  things  with  which  we  had  been 
provided  1 should  not  have  been  able  to  get  along  at  all.  Sometimes  it  was 
very  cold,  and  there  was  much  wind,  but  when  we  were  in  the  sun  it  was 
very  hot.  Whether  in  the  sun  or  in  the  shade  the  snow  was  very  soft,  and 
we  sank  in  deeply,  often  up  to  the  knees.  This  was  very  fatiguing,  and  it 
was  owing  to  this  that  we  took  so  much  longer  time  in  ascending  the  upper 
than  the  lower  part  of  the  mountain. 

“To  break  the  ascent  we  zigzagged  about,  and  at  one  time  came  round  to 
the  side  fronting  Guaranda,  and  then  came  back  to  above  the  place  where  the 
tent  was  pitched.  At  last  we  got  on  to  the  top,  and  could  see  the  two  sum- 
mits. The  snow  was  very  soft  indeed  here,  and  we  went  along  very  slowly, 
and  had  often  to  stop  to  get  breath.  The  highest  of  the  two  summits  was  on 
our  left  hand,  that  is,  upon  the  north  side  of  the  mountain,  and  we  went  to 
it.  without  going  upon  the  lower  one.  As  we  approached  the  very  highest 
point  we  saw  that  there  was  something  strange  upon  it,  and  when  we  got  up 
we  found  the  pole  of  the  flag  which  Mr.  Whymper  had  put  up  on  January  4, 
1880.  It  stood  up  about  14  varas  above  the  snow,  and  very  little  of  the  flag 
remained,  as  it  had  been  torn  to  pieces  by  the  wind.  I took  a small  piece  of 
the  flag  to  show  to  my  friends  below,  and  was  filled  with  joy  at  being  the 
first  Ecuadorian  to  reach  the  summit  of  the  great  Chimborazo  ! 

“We  arrived  on  the  very  highest  point  of  the  summit  at  1.20  p.m.,  and 
about  the  same  time  ashes  from  Cotopaxi  began  to  fall.  They  filled  our 
eyes,  noses,  mouths,  and  ears,  and  made  the  snow  quite  black.  Mr. 
Whymper,  however,  prepared  his  instruments,  and  was  at  work  during  the 
whole  time  we  were  on  the  summit.  He  did  not  once  sit  down  to  rest  from 
the  time  we  left  the  tent  in  the  morning  until  the  time  that  we  returned  to 
it  in  the  evening.  He  took  the  height  of  the  mountain  with  his  barometers, 
and  told  us  that  the  observations  he  now  made  agreed  very  well  with  those 
which  lie  made  upon  the  first  ascent  of  Chimborazo  on  January  4,  1880. 

“At  2.30  p.m.  we  left  the  summit,  and  came  down  as  fast  as  we  could, 
only  stopping  a little  from  time  to  time  to  allow  Mr.  Whymper  to  collect 
rocks  at  various  places.  We  arrived  again  at  the  tent  at  5.10  p.m.,  and  found 
it  covered  with  the  ashes  from  Cotopaxi,  which  were  still  falling,  and  filled 
the  whole  valleys  with  a thick  cloud.  On  the  4th  July  we  continued  the 
tour  of  the  mountain  and  arrived  at  night  close  to  Tortorillas,  and  on  the 
6th  we  returned  to  Riobamlni,  having  had  a most  successful  journey,  without 
accidents  of  any  sort  whatever — not  only  having  made  the  tour  and  the 
second  ascent  of  Chimborazo,  but  having  also  made  en  route,  on  the  29th  of 
June,  the  ascent  of  Carihuairazo. 

“Guayaquil,  July  19,  1880. 

(Signed)  “Franco.  Jr.  Campana.” 

Declared  and  subscribed  at 
Guayaquil  this  twentieth  day 
of  July  1880,  Before  me 

Geo.  Chambers, 

H.B.M.’s  Consul,  Guayaquil. 


APPJ2KDIX. 


EXPERIMENTS  BY  M.  PAUL  BERT. 


437 


J.— EXPERIMENTS  BY  M.  PAUL  BERT. 


The  book  entitled  La  Pression  Barometrique,  by  Mons.  P.  Bert,  was  pub- 
lished in  1878,  but  I refrained  from  reading  or  procuring  it  until  after  my 
return  from  Ecuador.  It  did  not  appear  to  me  likely  that  the  points  which 
I desired  to  investigate  could  be  settled  by  laboratory  experiments,  and  this 
seems  also  to  have  been  the  opinion  of  M.  Bert.1 

The  general  conclusions  which  are  given  at  the  close  of  the  book  (pp. 
1153-55)  in  respect  to  the  effects  of  diminished  pressure 2 are  : — 

1.  La  diminution  de  la  pression  barometrique  n'agit  sur  les  etres  vivants  qu’en 
diminuant  ia  tension  de  l’oxygene  dans  l’air  qu’ils  respirent,  dans  le  sang  qui  anime 
leurs  tis6us,  et  en  les  exposant  ainsi  a des  menaces  d’asphyxie  (p.  1153). 

2.  Les  effets  facheux  de  la  diminution  de  pression  peuvent  etre  efficacement  combattus 
par  la  respiration  d’un  air  suftisamment  riche  en  oxygene  pour  maintenir  a la  valeur  r.ormale 
la  tension  de  ce  gaz  (p.  1154). 

3.  Les  etres  actuellement  existants  a l'etat  sauvage  sur  la  surface  du  globe  sout 
accommodes  an  degre  de  tension  oxygenee  sous  laquelle  ils  vivent : tome  diminution, 
toute  augmentation  parait  leur  etre  defavorable  quand  ils  sont  dans  l'etat  de  sante  (p. 
1155). 


These  conclusions  were  arrived  at  after  a very  long  series  of  experiments 
of  various  kinds  had  been  made  upon  birds,  dogs,  cats,  rabbits,  etc.,  from 
which  it  clearly  appeared  that  death  can  be  brought  about  in  these  animals 
if  pressure  is  reduced  rapidly  to  a low  point.  Sparrows,  for  example,  were 
killed  before  pressure  had  been  reduced  so  low  as  that  which  reigns  at  the 
summit  of  Mount  Everest.  Dogs,  it  was  found,  were  harder  to  kill  than  cats 
(p.  738).  The  various  animals  exhibited  much  the  same  symptoms  at  these 
artificially  produced  low  pressures  as  human  beings  at  the  natural  low  pressures 
which  are  experienced  at  great  heights  ; and,  like  them,  they  recovered  very 
rapidly  (even  when  apparently  dying)  when  pressure  was  restored. 

In  further  experiments  with  sparrows,  pressure  was  lowered  very  rapidly, 
and  the  birds  operated  upon  were  reduced  to  a dying  state  ; oxygen  was  then 
let  in,  and  the  birds  revived  : pressure  was  then  still  further  reduced  and  the 
birds  were  again  made  extremely  ill,  but  recovered  by  a further  introduction 
of  oxygen  ; and  the  experiments  were  continued  until  the  atmosphere  in 
which  the  birds  were  confined  contained  91  per  cent  of  oxygen,  and  in  that 
mixture  they  lived  at  a pressure  of  75  millimetres,  which  is  less  than  a third 

1 He  says  in  his  Preface,  “j’ai  dfl  laisser  systematiquemcnt  de  c6te  trois  ordres  de 
questions  qui  ne  pouvaient  etre  attaquees  dans  le  laboratoire,  et  pour  lesquelles,  par  suite, 
les  conditions  certaines  de  la  preuve  ne  pouvaient  etre  rassemblees ; c’est  a savoir : les 
oscillations  quotidiennes  du  barometre,  les  applications  therapeutiques,  V acclimalement 
sur  les  bants  lieux." 

2 Numerous  experiments  at  augmented  pressures  were  also  made. 


438 


EXPERIMENTS  BY  M.  PAUL  BERT. 


APPENDIX. 


of  that  which  would  be  experienced  at  the  top  of  Mount  Everest,  and  about 
one  tenth  of  atmospheric  pressure  at  the  level  of  the  sea. 

These  experiments  upon  animals  were  followed  by  others  upon  himself. 
M.  Bert  says  (p.  749): — 

‘•Je  ne  pouvais  evidemment  me  borner,  an  moment  d'emettre  des  preeeptes  pratiques 
destines  aux  voyageurs  en  montagne  et  aux  aeronautes,  a des  experiences  faites  sur  des 
animaux,  si  convaincantes  qu’elles  fussent. 

■ Je  resolns  de  commencer  par  experimenter  sur  moi-meme.  J'avais  deja,  dans  mes 
grands  cylindres  en  t6le,  subi  i'influence  d'assez  notables  depressions,  jusqu'a  eprouver 
certains  malaises.  Je  pensai  alors  a m'y  soumettre  de  nouveau,  pour  faire  disparaitre 
les  accidents  en  respirant  un  air  suroxygene. 

‘■Je  pla^ais  alors  a c6te  de  moi,  dans  l'appareil,  un  grand  sac  de  caoutchouc,  con- 
tenant  un  air  d’autant  plus  riche  en  oxygene,  que  la  depression  devait  etre  plus  forte.” 

The  first  experiment  of  this  nature  was  made  by  M.  Bert  upon  himself 
on  February  20,  1874.  He  shut  himself  up  in  a metal  cylinder,  with  his 
bag  of  oxygen,  and  had  pressure  reduced  in  35  minutes  to  450  millimetres, 
and  remained  at  that  pressure,  or  a little  lower,  during  08  minutes.  After 
this,  air  was  gradually  let  in,  and  in  25  minutes  more  he  returned,  so  to 
speak,  to  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  lowest  pressure  to  which  M.  Bert  was 
subjected  on  this  occasion  was  about  equal  to  that  which  reigns  at  the  summit 
of  Mont  Blanc,  and  before  this  point  was  reached  he  experienced  both  nausea 
and  dizziness,  and  his  pulse  rose  from  64  to  100.  He  refreshed  himself  with 
oxygen  from  time  to  time  with  beneficial  effects,  and  found  that  he  could 
reduce  the  rate  of  his  pulse,  in  two  minutes,  from  90  to  09.  This  experiment, 
from  first  to  last,  extended  over  128  minutes. 

Upon  March  9,  1874,  a second  experiment  of  this  nature  was  made  in 
51.  Bert's  apparatus  by  MM.  Croce-Spinelli  and  Sivel,  and  upon  this  occasion 
pressure  was  reduced  in  37  minutes  to  304  mm.,  which  is  about  equal  to  that 
which  would  be  experienced  at  a height  of  24.000  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
experimenters  remained,  however,  only  a very  short  time  under  this  pressure. 
In  7 minutes  they  returned  below  what  is  the  equivalent  of  the  height  of 
Mont  Blanc,  and  in  59  minutes  from  the  commencement  of  the  experiment 
returned  to  the  level  of  the  sea.  Like  51.  Bert,  they  refreshed  themselves  with 
oxygen,  but  their  pulses  nevertheless  rose  to  132  and  135  ; and,  at  the  lowest 
pressure,  they  experienced  a sort  of  drunken  sensation,  and  could  neither  see 
nor  hear  clearly. 

In  these  two  experiments,  said  51.  Bert  (p.  758), 

“ l'oxygene  n’avait  ete  employe  que  d'une  maniere  intermittente,  pour  diminuer  pen- 
dant quelques  install!  s la  gravite  des  accidents  de  la  decompression.  Je  voulus  operer  un 
peu  differemment,  laisser  arriver  les  malaises  jusqu'a  un  certain  degre,  pour  respirer  alors 
d'une  maniere  continue  Pair  suroxygene,  tout  en  continuant  a diminuer  encore  la  pression 
buroinetrique,  et  voir  ce  qui  adviendrait.” 

Before  these  further  laboratory  experiments  were  made,  5151.  Croce- 
Spinelli  and  Sivel  repeated  their  experiences,  this  time  in  balloon,  and  upon 
5Iarch  22,  1874,  rose  until  they  attained  a height  of  about  24,000  feet.  As 
before,  they  took  occasional  draughts  of  oxygen  : but  they  remained  a much 
greater  length  of  time  above  the  height  of  5Iont  Blanc,  and  were  more  per- 
ceptibly affected,  especially  51.  Croce-Spinelli,  who  endeavoured  to  eat  at  the 
greatest  elevation.  His  pulse  rose  to  140. 


APPENDIX. 


EXPERIMENTS  BY  M.  PAUL  BERT. 


439 


Four  and  six  days  later  M.  Paul  Bert  made  his  experiments,  Nos.  256 
and  257,  in  which  he  reduced  himself  successively  to  pressures  about  equiva- 
lent to  the  heights  of  Chimborazo  and  of  Mount  Everest.  I am  much 
indebted  to  the  courtesy  of  Mons.  G.  Masson,  the  publisher  of  La  Pression 
Barometrique,  for  permitting  the  details  of  these  two  experiments  to  be 
reprinted  here  at  full  length. 

Experience  CCLVI. — 28  mars. — J’entre  dans  l’appareil  a 10"  55"1  ; la  porte  est 
ferme'e  all"  4m  ; j’ai  alors  58  pulsations  a laminate.  Pression  barometrique,  761 mm  ; 

llh  10™;  pression  715ram  ; pouls,  62  ; 

llh  20m;  580mm  ; pouls,  63  ; 

llh  23m;  535mra  ; pouls,  63;  quelques  sensations  natiseeuses; 

Hh  25m;  510mm  ; gaz  s’echappant  par  en  haut  et  par  en  bas  ; 

llh  27m.  495mm.  pouls,  66; 

llh  31m;  455mm  ; pouls,  64 ; sensation  nause'ense;  gaz  s’e'ehappent,  et  eependant 
le  ventre  reste  un  peu  gonfle' ; 

1 1 •*  33m;  435mm  ; pouls,  70  ; l’acte  de  siffler,  que  j’exe'cutais  tres-bien  a la  pression 
normale,  qui  e'tait  devenu  assez  difficile  des  520“"",  est  comple'tement  impossible ; 

1 lh  35m  ; 425mm ; pouls,  72  ; un  peu  de  trouble  de  la  vue,  qui  est  moins  nette  ; 

llh  37m;  412mm;  pouls,  76;  je  suis  assez  mal  a mon  aise,  avec  l’oeil  un  peu 
trouble. 

Je  commence  alors  a inspirer  d’tine  maniere  continue  dans  le  sac  plein  d’air  suroxy- 
ge'ne'  que  j’ai  a cote'  de  moi ; l’expiration  se  fait  au  dehors.  Quelques  e'blouissements 
surviennent,  puis  tout  accident  disparait,  ct  je  me  trouve,  jusqu’a  la  fin  de  l’experience, 
dans  un  etat  de  bien-etre  parfait. 

Le  pouls,  qui  e'tait  tombe'  instantane'ment  a 63,  s’abaisse  encore,  quoique  la  decom- 
pression aille  en  augmentant. 

Hh  4 1 m . pression,  408mm  ; 60  pulsations. 

11 11  46m  ; 382“""  ; pouls,  63; 

1 lh  47m  ; 380mm  ; des  gaz  s’c'chappent  par  la  bouche  el  l’anus ; bicn-etre  parfait ; 

llh48m;  369mm ; 58  pulsations  ; encore  gaz  ; 

11 11  51"’;  355ram  ; 59  pulsations ; 

llh  52m  ; 350n,ra  ; encore  gaz  ; 

llh  55m;  338mm  ; je  fais  quelques  efforts  pour  ouvrir  et  fermcr  un  fiacon  ; le  pouls 
monte  a 63  ; la  pression  commence  a remonrer; 

llh  59'“;  400mm  ; 60  pubations; 

Midi  : 440mm  ; impossible  de  sillier ; 

Midi  2m  ; 490mm  ; 60  pulsations  ; impossible  de  sillier  ; je  cesse  de  respirer  fair  sur- 
oxygene ; 

Midi  3m  ; 520“’"’ ; impossible  de  sillier;  56  pulsations  ; 

Midi  5m  ; 540mm  ; je  commence  a pouvoir  siffler  ; 

Midi  7m  ; 570mm  ; je  siffle  tres-bien;  59  pulsations; 

Midi  10m;  revenu  a la  pression  normale;  52  pulsations. 


Cette  expedience  montre  de  la  maniere  la  plus  nette  que  les  inspirations  continues 
d’oxygene,  apres  avoir  fait  cesser  les  symptomes  facheux,  les  empechent  de  reparaitre, 
quoique  la  pression  barometrique  continue  a diminuer.  II  n’est  rie'n  de  plus  probant. 
La  depression  atteinte  a ete  de  338  millimetres,  correspi  ndante  a la  hauteur  de  6500’“ 
environ,  e’est-a-dire  un  peu  plus  que  celle  du  Chimborazo. 

Entre  autres  phenomenes  qui  out  persiste  nonobstant  l’inspiration  d’oxygene.  parce 
qu’ils  dependent  exclusix^ment  de  la  diminution  de  densite'  de  l’air,  je  citerai  les  evacua- 
tions gazeuses  ct  l’impossibilite'  de  siffler,  qui  avait  ete  note'e  deja  dans  l’expe'rience  pre- 
cedente,  et  dont  ne  parlent  ni  les  aeronautes  ni  les  ascensionnistes ; elle  a e'te'  observe'e 
au-dessous  de  500  millimetres. 

L’experience  suivante,  conduite  de  la  meme  maniere,  est  encore  plus  frappante  a 
cause  de  1 enorme  degression  a laquelle  je  me  suis  impunement  soumis : 


440 


EXPERIMENTS  BY  M.  PAUL  BERT. 


APPENDIX. 


Experience  CCLVII. — .30  mars. — .T'entre  a 10h  15m  dans  l'appareil ; pression 
barometrique  759mm.  J’ai  avec  moi  un  moineau,  dont  la  temperature  rectale  est  41 
9,  un  vat  et  une  bougie. 

10h  22m;  on  ferme  la  porte  : j’ai  GO  pulsations; 

10h  29m ; pression  710mm  ; 63  pulsations; 

10"  34m ; 665ram  ; pouls,  64; 

10h  40m  ; 640mm ; pouls,  65  ; je  vois  apparaitre  des  bulles  de  gaz  dans  l’eau  que  j’ai 
a cote'  de  moi  uans  un  verre ; 

10h  43“ ; 605mm  ; 

10h  46m  ; 580ram  ; pouls,  66  ; 

555mm . jc  sitfle  assez  facilement ; la  flamme  de  la  bougie  bleuit  un  pen,  la  meche 
s’allonge;  elle  est  a peu  pres  la  moitie'  de  la  longueur  de  la  flatnme  ; 

5 1 0"lm ; impossible  de  siffler  dans  les  notes  hautes  ; 

I0h  53m ; 480mm  ; 70  pulsations  ; un  peu  de  malaise  ; 

10h53,u;  455mul ; 78  pulsations  ; sentiment  de  congestion  a la  tete  ; gaz  s’e'chappant 
par  en  haut  et  par  en  has ; 

10h  58m  ; 430mm  ; pouls,  80  : l’oiseau  vomit,  parait  assez  malade,  mais  reste  perche  ; 
le  rat  semble  fort  tranquille; 

1 lh  4I0mm  ; pouls,  86  ; je  place  dcvant  ma  bouche  le  tube  du  sac  a oxygene,  que 
la  depression  a gonfle,  et  je  respire  ainsi  un  melange  trcs-stiroxygene' ; j’ai  quelques 
eblouissements ; 

1 1 h 2m;  400mm  ; le  pouls  est  tombe'  a 64  ; l’oiseau  vomit  de  nouveau  ; le  rat  parait 
fort  anxieux ; 

llh  5m;  378mm  ; 66  pulsations;  impossibility  de  siffler; 

llh  9m  ; 360ml"  ; 72  pulsations  ; un  peu  de  malaise,  bien  que  j’aie  respire  l’oxygene 
d’une  maniere  continue,  mais  a distance,  il  est  vrai.  Je  prends  alors  le  tube  de  de'gage- 
ment  dans  la  bouche,  sans  termer  les  narines,  et  le  garde  ainsi  jusqu’a  la  fin  de  l’ex- 
pe'rience.  Le  malaise  disparait  aussitot; 

1 lh  1 lm ; 348mm  ; 66  pulsations  ; le  moineau  a 1 26  respirations  a la  minute  ; 

llh  14ra;  323mm  ; 64  pulsations;  le  moineau,  qui  vomit  tres-fort,  reste  cependant 
perche' ; 

llh  17m;  310mm  ; j’ai  un  peu  de  malaise,  avec  pouls  a 75  ; 

1 [h  19m  j 300mnl ; le  moineau  est  fort  malade  ; 

Uh  22m  ; 295mm  ; 64  pulsations  ; mon  malaise  a comple'tement  disparu  ; 

Hh  24m;  288mm ; 

llh  27m;  280mm  ; pulsations,  66  ; la  flamme  de  la  bougie  est  tres-bleue  ; la  meche 
a environ  3 de  la  longueur  de  la  flamme; 

Hh  33m.  258mm  ; 70  pulsations;  l’oiseau  vomit  et  semble  extremement  malade, 
mais  il  reste  toujours  perche' ; 

llh  34m  ; 255mm  ; 

llh  36m  ; 248mra  ; 64  pulsations  ; je  laisse  augmenter  la  pression  ; 

Hh  33m  . 290mm  ; pouls,  63  ; 

llh  40"';  340mm  ; la  tempe'rature  rectale  du  moineau  n’est  plus  que  de  36°,  4; 

Hh  43m . 390mm  ; pouls,  54  ; je  cesse  de  rcspirer  l’oxygenc ; 

Hh  44m.  420mm  ; impossible  de  siffler;  l’oiseau  est  toujours  bien  malade,  accroupi 
sur  son  perchoir ; 

llh  4Gm;  480mm  ; impossible  de  siffler  ; 

111147m;  55Qram  . id,  j 66  pulsations  ; 

llh  48m ; 580mm  ; je  puis  siffler  les  notes  basses,  mais  non  les  hautes  ; 

llh  49m ; 630mm  ; "je  siffle  tres-bien  ; 

Hh  31  m . revenu  a ]a  pression  normale  ; j’ai  seulement  52  pulsations.  La  tempe'ra- 
ture rectale  du  moineau  est  36°,  1 ; celle  durat  34° ; la  mienne,  sous  la  langue,  36°,  5. 

A 3h  30m,  le  moineau  n’a  encore  que  38°,  7 dans  le  rectum. 


Voici  done  une  expedience  dans  laquelle  je  suis  arrive'  en  une  heure  un  quart  a une 
pression  minima  de  248  millimetres,  e’est-a-dire  a moins  d’un  tiers  de  la  pression  nor- 
male, pendant  laquelle  je  suis  reste'  45  minutes  au-dessous  de  400  millimetres,  sans  avoir 
e'prouve  de  malaise  a partir  du  moment  oil  j’ai  commence'  a respirer  re'gulierement  l’air 
suroxygene.  Mon  pouls  est  reste'  des  lors  ii  son  chiffre  normal ; il  s’est  mime  abaisse' 


APPENDIX. 


EXPERIMENTS  BY  M.  PAUL  BERT. 


441 


vers  la  fin,  soit  a cause  du  long  repos  dans  la  station  assise,  soit  sous  l’influence  de  la 
respiration  d’un  air  suroxyge'ne'.  A cote'  de  moi,  un  moineau  et  un  rat  se  trouvaient 
fort  malades,  et  leur  temperature  s’abaissait  de  plusieurs  degre's.  Quant  a moi,  bien 
loin  de  courir  un  danger,  je  ne  ressentais  aucun  des  inconve'nients  le'gers  de  la  de'com- 
pression,  ni  l’e'tat  nause'eux,  ni  le  mal  de  tete,  ni  lacongestion  a la  tete,  et  je  n’en  e'prouvai 
pas  davant  ige  apres  etre  sorti  de  l’appareil.  II  me  semblait  memo  que  j’eusse  pu  aller 
beaucotip  plus  bas  encore,  sans  nul  encombrc,  et  j’y  e'tais  parfaitement  dispose',  si  mes 
pompes  a vapeur,  fatigue'es  du  travail,  n’eussent  refuse'  d’e'puiser  davantage  l’air  des 
cvlindres.  Peut-etre  dois-je  en  accuser  la  complicite'  des  personnes  pre'sentes  a l’expe- 
rience,  qui  venaientfie'quemment  me  regarder  atraversles  hublots  et,  malgre  l’aspect  tout 
a fait  naturel  de  ma  physionomie,  semblaient  fort  effrayees  de  me  voir  expose'  a cette 
enorme  diminution  de  pression.  Elle  correspondait,  en  effet,  a plus  de  8800  metres, 
c’est-a-dire  a une  hauteur  supe'rieure  a celle  que  lcs  vovageurs  en  montagne  et  les  aero- 
nautes,  hormis  MM  Coxwel  et  Glaisher,  aient  pu  atteindre  encore.  Je  n’e'prouvais  aucun 
malaise  a cette  pression  qui  avait  failli  etre  si  funeste  aux  deux  intre'pides  Anglais,  et  a 
laquelle  devaient  perir  peu  de  mois  plus  tard  MM.  Croce'-Spinelii  et  Sivel. 


These  experiments,  as  a whole,  demonstrated  that  artificially-produced 
diminution  of  pressure  caused  effects  similar  to  those  which  are  experienced 
by  travellers  on  the  earth,  or  in  balloon,  at  great  elevations  ; and  that  the 
appearance  of  some  of  these  effects  may  be  retarded,  or  if  they  appear  that 
they  may  be  temporarily  driven  away,  by  inspiring  oxygen.  They  also 
proved  that  one  may  descend  with  extreme  rapidity  from  great  heights 
without  injurious  effects  appearing  immediately.  In  his  experiment  Mo.  256, 
M.  Bert  made  a descent,  so  to  speak,  of  15,000  feet  in  ten  minutes  ; and  in 
No.  257  he  came  down  17,400  feet  in  nine  minutes,  in  each  case,  it  seemed, 
without  taking  any  harm. 

Emboldened  by  the  impunity  which  apparently  could  be  enjoyed  by  the 
use  of  this  simple  means,  MM.  Croce-Spinelli  and  Sivel,  accompanied  by 
M.  Gaston  Tissandier,  upon  April  15,  1875,  started  upon  another  aerial 
voyage.  The  two  former  died  at  or  about  28,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
M.  Tissandier  narrowly  escaped.  In  discussing  what  was  the  cause  of  the 
death  of  these  two  unfortunates,  M.  Bert  says  (p.  1001)  that  the  quantity 
of  oxygen  they  carried  was  insufficient  for  so  high  an  ascent,1  and  this  may 
have  been  the  case  ; but  it  is  certain  that  the  immediate  cause  of  the  cata- 
strophe was  not  due  to  exhaustion  of  their  supply,  inasmuch  as,  when  the 
balloon  reached  earth  again,  there  was  a quantity  of  oxygen  still  remaining 
in  the  ballonnets  in  which  it  was  carried. 

The  opinion  of  M.  Bert  was  that  no  harm  would  have  been  taken  if 
these  voyagers  had  imbibed  more  oxygen,  and  he  appears  to  have  imagined 
that  this  was  proved  by  the  fact  that  he  himself  (while  inhaling  the  gas)  had 
been  able  to  sustain  a pressure  of  248  mm.  ( = 9.057  inches)  for  one  or  two 
minutes.  This  experiment,  however,  proved  no  more  than  that  he  was  able 
to  live  for  one  or  two  minutes  in  air  of  about  one-third  the  density  of  that 
to  which  we  are  accustomed  ; and  there  seems  every  likelihood,  if  he  had 

1 “J’etais  alors  absent  de  Paris,  et  prevent!  par  une  lettre  de  Croce-Spinelli  de  leur 
prochain  voyage,  lettre  dans  laquelle  il  m'indiquait  la  quantite  d'oxygene  qu’ils  allaient 
emporter  (elle  devait  etre,  je  crois,  de  150  litres),  je  Ini  fis  remarquer  l’insuffisance. 
‘ Dans  les  hauts  lieux  ou  cette  respiration  artificielle  vous  sera  indispensable,  lui  disais-je, 
vous  devez  compter,  pour  trois  homines,  sur  une  consommation  d’au  moins  20  litres  par 
minute;  voyez  comment  votre  provision  sera  vite  epuisee.’” 

3 L 


442 


EXPERIMENTS  BY  M.  PAUL  BERT. 


APPENDIX. 


continued  for  an  hour  or  two  at  a pressure  of  248  min.,  lie  would  have  met 
with  the  same  fate  as  his  pupils.  1 contend  that  no  certain  conclusions  can 
be  drawn,  in  regard  to  this  subject,  as  to  the  effects  which  will  be  produced 
in  hours  from  experiments  extending  over  minutes. 

Although  it  has  been  pointed  out  that  the  artificial  inhalation  of  oxygen 
was  not  found  necessary  at  the  pressures  which  are  dealt  with  in  this  volume, 
I by  no  means  decry  its  use,  or  entertain  the  opinion  that  it  is  undesirable. 
Mischief  is  unlikely  to  result  from  any  quantity  that  a mountain-traveller 
will  be  able  to  imbibe,  but  it  will  always  be  found  difficult  to  take  such  an 
amount  as  can  yield  substantial  benefit.  The  most  that  can  be  expected 
from  its  employment  is  that  it  may  “mitigate  the  distressing  symptoms,”  or. 
possibly,  slightly  retard  their  appearance.  And,  although  differing  from  the 
conclusions  drawn  by  M.  Bert,  I take  this  opportunity  to  express  admiration 
for  the  courage  and  perseverance  with  which  he  prosecuted  his  experiments  ; 
and  terminate  this  inadequate  reference  to  his  labours  by  recommending 
La  Pression  Barometrique  as  a storehouse  of  interesting  facts. 


CHIMBORAZO,  FROM  GUAYAQUIL. 


INDEX 


INDEX. 


Abraspungo,  86,  816,  318-19,  332,  349, 

398,  401. 

Academicians,  16,  107,  288-93. 
Accident  to  a mule,  285-6. 

Acosta,  Father  Joseph  de,  192-3.  375-7. 
Aeronauts,  Introd.,  v-vii,  377-80.  382, 
438-42. 

Agua  Clara,  14. 

Aguirre  family,  127,  159,  184.  205,  217. 
Aiguille  du  Dru,  299,  307. 

du  Geant,  58. 

du  Gouter,  229. 

du  Midi,  58. 

Air  (see  Rarefaction  of  Air). 

Alausi,  Village  of,  386. 

Alchipichi,  Hacienda  of,  284. 

Alcohol,  10. 

Alligators,  4. 

Aloasi,  Village  of,  108. 

Alpargatas,  143. 

Alpine  Club,  Introd.,  xii. 

Altar,  85-6,  96,  235-6.  296.  302,  304-8, 
384,  343,  347,  349,  353,  362-4. 
Altitudes  (see  Greatest  Altitudes). 

determined  in  Ecuador,  339,  395- 

401. 

Amazons,  River,  25,  92,  193,  195,  201, 
239,  290. 

Ambato,  basin  of,  90.  97,  110. 

Bishop  of,  96,  116,  356. 

Governor  of,  87.  91. 

population  of,  93,  295. 

town  of,  82-3,  86,  89-97,  104,  178, 

302,  316,  327-8,  370,  398,  399, 
413-14,  422. 

Amphipoda,  117,  361,  363. 

Ana,  tambo  S.,  122,  124,  138. 

Ancon,  270. 

Aneroid  Barometers.  33,  38.  56-7,  67, 
70,  72,  219-21.  325,  331-2,  344-5, 

399,  401,  405-16. 

Annelida  (see  Earth-worms). 


Antiquities,  256-8,  268-84. 

Antisana,  101,  121,  133,  145,  156,  159, 
165,  184-205,  210-15,  224,  228, 
230-1,  240,  245,  255,  262,  343, 
345-7,  349,  351-3,  359,  36:!,  370, 
372-3,  396,  400,  420,  422.  426-7, 
429,  431. 

Hacienda  of,  41,  184,  186.  188-91, 

194,  196,  198-200,  204,  354,  357, 
361-3,  365-6,  398,  400,  423. 
Antisanilla,  Hacienda  of,  159,185,188-9, 
201,  204,  366,  400. 

Lava-stream  of,  187-9,  199. 

Antonio,  Village  of  S.,  265-6. 

Ants,  10,  355,  362. 

Arachnida  (see  Scorpions  and  Spi- 
ders). 

Arenal,  the  Great,  20,  21,  24,  26.  30-1, 
33,  40-3,  76-8,  86,  93,  319,  332-3. 

■ Arriaga,  Padre,  275. 

Arrieros,  6,  9,  21,  39-40,  159,  208,  309. 
Arriero-courier,  47,  60,  62-3,  73. 
Ascents,  rate  of,  32,  66,  70-1,  75,  79, 
149,  162,  164,  191,  198,  234-5, 
262-3,  298,  317,  331. 

Ash,  Volcanic  (see  Volcanic  dust). 
Atacatzo,  105-6,  108-9,  167,  170,  210, 
231,  347. 

Atahualpa,  257. 

Atlantic  Ocean,  239. 

Atmospheric  pressure  (see  Pressure). 
Avalanches,  ice-,  78,  307,  320-1.  338. 

snow-,  195,  262. 

Azuay,  Province  of.  294. 

Baker,  Mr.  E.  G..  115,  353. 

Sir  S.  W.,  418. 

Balsabamba,  Village  of,  11,  15. 

Banks  in  Ecuador,  181-3. 

Banos,  Village  of,  97,  193. 

Baquero’s  Hotel,  98. 

Barometer,  Aneroid  (see  Aneroid). 


446 


INDEX. 


Barometer,  Mercurial,  Introd.,  x,  xii, 
33-6,  53-7,  66-7,  69-72,  134,  157, 
186,  195-0,  212,  219-21,  230,  232, 
244,  249-50,  263,  297-8,  315,  319, 
323,  325-7,  330-1,  339,  341,  343-4, 
377,  395-8,  402-20. 

range  of,  in  Ecuador,  402-4. 

Barona,  Dr.  Abel,  91. 

Barraganetal,  14. 

Base-line  of  the  Academicians,  288-93. 
Bass’  Ale,  83,  178. 

Bates,  Mr.  II.  W„  10,  112,  116,  137-8, 
200,  222,  236-7,  332,  354,  362,  365. 
Batrachia,  116,  144,  334,  363. 
Battle-axes,  270-1. 

Bees  (see  Hymenoptera). 

Beetles  (see  Coleoptera). 

Bellew,  Dr.,  49. 

Bellows,  utility  of,  51. 

Beltran,  David  (of  Machachi),  165,  218, 
236,  241,  246,  297.  310-12,  314-15, 
317-18,  321,  325,  327,  435. 

Benham,  Prof.  W.  B..  112,  351,  362. 
Bert,  Mons.  Paul,  Introd.,  viii,  301, 
377-80,  382-3,  437-42. 

Biot,  Mons.,  380. 

Bishop  of  Ambato,  96.  116. 

of  Rochester',  Introd.,  viii. 

Blaine,  Mr.,  90,  168,  175. 

Blanco,  Rio,  313. 

Bodegas  de  Babahoyo,  2-6,  15,  360,  391. 
Body  temperature,  52,  150,  301,  326, 
368,  425-7. 

Bogota,  284. 

Bogs,  160. 

Boiling-point  observations,  33-4,  253, 
417-20. 

Bolivar,  Province  of,  294. 

Bolivia,  Introd.,  xi,  270. 

Bombs,  Volcanic,  138. 

Bonds,  Ecuadorian,  177. 

Bonney,  Prof.  T.  G..  65,  68,  94,  104, 
111,  125,  140-1,  164,  189,  194,  212, 
234,  242,  249,  263,  288,  297,  306, 
316,  319,  329. 

Bonpland,  Mons.  A.,  27,  113-14,  365, 
428-30. 

Borrero,  Dr..  174,  267. 

Botanical  Tables,  352-3. 


Botany  (see  Ferns,  Flowering  plants, 
Fungi,  Grasses,  Lichens,  Mosses). 
Bothnia,  Gulf  of,  288. 

Bouguer,  Mons.,  107,  111,  288. 
Boulenger,  Mr.  G.  A.,  363. 
Boussingault,  Mons.  J.-D., Introd.,  xiii. 
23,  25,  27,  29-32,41,  76-7,  185-6. 
192.  236,  348,  351,  402-4,  431-5. 

Glacier  de,  349. 

Brenchley,  Mr.,  211,  418. 

Brevent,  33. 

British  Minister  at  t^uito,  Introd.,  xiii, 
166,  172-3. 

Britten,  Mr.  James,  352-3. 
Brocklehurst,  Mr.  T.  U.,  Introd.,  viii. 
Bronze,  277-8. 

Browning,  E.  Barrett,  33. 

Bruhns,  Karl  (Life  of  Humboldt),  28-9, 
77,  428-30. 

Buckley,  Dir.,  10. 

Buenos  Ayres,  336. 

Bugs  (see  Rhynchota). 

Butterflies  (see  Lepidoptera). 

CaamaSo,  Senor,  175. 

Gallo,  99,  124,  127,  302. 

Camellones,  8,  21,  286. 

Cameron,  Mr.  Peter,  355,  362. 
Campafia,  F.  J.  (interpreter),  271,295-6, 
310-12,  314,  317-18,  321,  325,  327, 
334,  386,  389,  391,  435-6. 

Canar,  Province  of,  294. 

Candelaria,  Hacienda  of,  303-4.  308, 
360,  398,  401. 

Canzacoto,  214-15. 

Carabourou,  Pyramid  of,  218,  292. 
Carchi,  Province  of,  294. 

Carihuairazo,  23,  85-7,  90,  97,  131,  158, 
252,  295,  310-18,  327,  343,  345,  347. 
349,352,  363,  372,  401,  415,  423. 
426-7,  436. 

Carranqui,  Village  of,  256-7,  265-6,  268. 
275. 

Carrel,  Jean- Antoine,  Introd.,  xii,  6, 
26,  34,  50-3,  59,  62,  67,  69,  71,  78- 
80,  107,  109,  116,  132,  136,  143. 
145,  147,  150-1,  155,  164,  177,  190, 
194-5,  197-8,  205,  207,  209-11,  224- 
5,  227,  235-6,  241,  244-5,  259,  261, 


INDEX. 


447 


287-8,  297-8,  300,  304,  300-7,  311, 
314,  318-19,  321,  323,  327,  334,  343- 
4,  381,  392,  396,  435. 

Carrel,  Louis,  Introd.,  xii,  6,  26,  42, 
50,  59,  68,  71,  73,  79,  81-2,  101, 
122,  130,  132,  134,  136,  145,  150, 
155,  159-60,  165,  209,  211-12,  225, 
235,  236,  241,  244,  248,  261,  287, 
297-8,  306-7,  311-12,  314,  321,  327, 
334,  381,  435. 

Carrel,  Vallon  de,  43,  58,  62,  331-3,  354, 
364. 

Carrion,  Senor  J.,  173. 

Carrutliers,  Mr.  William,  21,  352. 

Casella,  Mr.  Louis,  405,  418,  424. 

Catarama,  Village  of,  86. 

Cattle,  198,  202,^204,  244-5,  313. 

Cayambe  (mountain),  112, 121,  133,  145, 
154, 156,  169,  215-16,  217-37,  238- 
40,  249,  251,  262,  332,  343,  345- 
7,  349,  351,  354-5,  359,  362-5, 
370,  372-3,  400,  420,  423,  425-7. 

Village  of,  180,  218,  222-3,  227-8, 

241,  245,  250,  255-6,  266,  398. 
400. 

Cayandeli,  Hacienda  of,  387,  401,  415. 

Census,  1,  168,  294-5. 

Centipedes,  354,  362. 

Cevallos  (arriero),  160,  164,  218,  241, 
258,  265,  285-6,  304,  311,  313,  318, 
321. 

Chambers,  Mr.  G.,  Introd.,  xiv,  2-4, 
13,  33-4,  38,  56,  66,  72,  97,  196, 
311,  395-6,  402,  405,  421.  436. 

Chainbo,  River,  85,  97. 

Chanchan,  River,  5,  336. 

Chaupi,  Hills  of,  99,  170. 

Chicago,  ox-cheek  of,  61-2,  83,  207. 

Childers,  Rt.  Hon.  H.  C.,  Introd.,  xiv. 

Chili,  Introd.,  x,  xi,  2 

Chilian  Minister,  294. 

Chillapullu,  431. 

Chillo,  124,  127,  159,  184-5,  205,  2r5, 
255. 

Chillogallo,  Village  of,  208. 

Chimbo,  14,  86,  336,  390-1. 

Bridgeof,  14,  387,  389-90,  401.  415. 

River,  4,  5,  13,  20,  86,  105,  323, 

327,  336. 


Chimbo,  Village  of  8.  Jose  de,  15,  34, 
412. 

Chimborazo,  2,  5,  12-14,  20-33,  40-80, 
82-7,  90,  93,  110,  114,  121,  131, 
156, 158,  172,  193, 198.200-2,  213, 
215,  219,  230,  295,  299,  310-13, 
316-43,  345-9,  351-5,  357,  362-5, 
367-70,  372,  381,  387,  407-9.  425- 
36. 

the  breach,  25-6,  64,  66-7,  77,  338. 

— first  Camp  on,  40-2,  331,  399,  412, 
414,  423,  425,  427. 

second  Camp  on,  47-59,  76-80,  86, 

193,  202,  299,  333-4,  368,  399, 

407,  412-14,  423,  425,  427. 

third  Camp  on,  59-60,  63,  66-7,  70, 

73-5,  78-9,  193,  321,  333,  369, 
372,  395,  399,  407,  413,  414.  423. 

fourth  Camp  on,  318-19,  334,  401, 

423. 

fifth  Camp  on,  319,  321-2,  327-8, 

332,  401,  415,  423. 

sixth  Camp  on,  333,  401,  427. 

’ seventh  Camp  on,  311-12,  334. 

Arenals  of,  20,  21,  24,  26,  30-1,  33, 

40-3,  76-8,  86,  93,  319,  332-3. 

crevasses  on,  24,  26,  33,  58.  67-8, 

327. 

flora  of,  333-4. 

from  the  Pacific,  2,  20. 

glaciers  of,  23-5,  30,  58,  67-8,  75-8, 

86-7,  319-20,  323,  327,  332.  335, 
338. 

height  of,  Introd.,  xi,  32-3,  71-2, 

330,  339-43,  399,  401. 

dava-streams  of,  47,  57,  59,  64,  319. 

Map  of,  17,  80,  323,  334. 

Marquis  of,  82,  89,  91. 

Northern  Walls  of,  320-1,  323, 

327. 

Pacific  Ocean  seen  from,  68,  324. 

North-west  ridge  of,  319,  321-3, 

327,  332. 

— Province  of,  294 

Southern  Walls  of,  25,  64-7,  75-9, 

333,  337-8,  369,  372,  399. 

Summits  of,  23-4,  57,  64.  68-70, 

78,  320.  325-9,  337,  339-42,  399, 

408,  413-15. 


448 


INDEX. 


Chimborazo,  South-west  ridge,  25,  4(5, 
53,  58-60,  64-7,  75,  77,  321. 

vallons  of,  22,  40,  42-3,  46,  58,  62, 

76,  331-3,  354,  364. 

Chimu,  277. 

Chinchona  bark,  13,  243. 

Chiribogas  of  Iiiobamba,  82,  89,  91,  312. 
Chlorate  of  potash,  49-50,  381. 

Chota,  Valiev  of,  214-15. 

Christian  names,  103. 

Chuarpongo,  Hacienda  of,  223,  400. 
Chuquipoquio,  Tambo  of,  29,  79-90, 
120,  311-13,  332-4,  385-6,  399,  408, 
413-14,  423. 

Church,  Mr.  G.  E.,  90.  168,  175-6. 
Cloud,  cumulus,  74-5,  145. 
Cock-fighting,  222-3. 

Col  du  Geant,  Introd.,  x. 

Colegio,  Hacienda  of,  186,  204-5. 
Coleoptera.  10,  112,  116-17.  137-8,  169, 
176,  200,  213,  222,  236-7,  246,  332, 
354,  362,  365-6,  391. 

Colias  alticola , 200,  363-5. 

dimera,  357,  364-5. 

Colin,  Mons.,  382. 

Collanes,  Valley  of,  303-8,  362,  401, 
423. 

Colombia,  Introd.,  xiii,  246,  258,  267. 
Colon,  407,  412,  414,  427. 

Condamine,  Mons.  de  la,  12,  15-17,  33, 
107,  110-11,  128-9,  154.  158,  164, 
196,  212,  218,  235-6,  287-93,  305, 
340-3,  402-3. 

Condor,  78,  200-5,  224. 

Coral  snake,  3. 

Corazon,  105,  107-12,  116,  134,  158, 
170,  210,  213,  215,  230-1,  343,345, 
347,  351-3,  360,  362-3,  365,  399. 
Cordilleras,  Parallel,  335-6. 

Cornices,  tufted,  120,  133-4,  191,  232. 
Corredor  Machai,  241-50,  353. 
Cotocachi  (mountain),  99,  133,  169,  231, 
256,  258-65,  334,  343,  345,  347, 
349,  352,  355-6,  358-9,  304-5, 
372-3,  400. 

Village  of.  178,  259-60,  264-7,  295, 

398.  400. 

Cotopaxi,  73.  90,  98-9,  110. 121-30,  1 35- 
59,  102, 170,  210,  231,  252-5,  322- 


30,  332,  336-7,  343,  345,  347.  349, 
353,  370,  372-3,  399,  408,  413, 
415,  420,  422-4,  420-7,  433,  436. 
Cotopaxi,  angles  of  slopes,  123,  147. 

crater  of,  121-2,  125-7,  128,  130, 

146-54,  210,  252,  322,  324,  330. 

dust  ejected  by.  125,  138.  140-2, 

146-7,  153,  326-30. 

eruptions  of,  125-9, 138,  147,  153-5, 

322-30. 

fish  ejected  by  ? 252-4. 

flames  from,  128,  152-3. 

glaciers  on.  146,  349. 

height  of,  154-5,  399. 

Couloir,  109. 

Cousobamba,  Village  of.  222. 

Cowper,  W.  (quotations  from),  117,  246. 
Crania,  284. 

Crater  of  Altar,  305-7. 

Antisana,  197. 

Carihuairazo,  316. 

Chimborazo,  337. 

Cotocachi,  264. 

Cotopaxi.  121-2,  125-7,  128,  130, 

146-54,  210,  252. 

Pichincha,  209-11. 

Sangai,  74. 

Crevasses  on  Antisana,  190-1,  194-5, 
197-8,  349. 

Carihuairazo,  315. 

Cayambe,  231-3. 

Chimborazo,  24,  26,  33,  67-8,  327. 

Illiniza,  132-3. 

Sara-urcu,  248-9. 

Crickets,  116. 

Croee-Spinelli  (.aeronaut),  378-9,  382, 
438,  441. 

Crosse  & Blackwell,  Messrs.,  62. 
Crustacea,  117,  361,  363.  366. 

Cuenca,  Town  of,  174,  277,  288.  295. 
Currant-bushes,  87,  250,  333. 

Cutuchi.  River,  97-9,  124,  127,  137.  302. 
Cuzco,  270,  274. 

Cyclopium  cyclopum,  117,  251-5,  363. 

Darwin,  Dr.,  Introd.,  x. 

Daule,  River,  4. 

David  (see  Beltran). 

Day,  the  late  Dr.  i'\,  255.  363. 


INDEX. 


449 


Debris,  Glacier  de,  17,  58,  73,  76-8,  80, 
320,  338. 

Yallon  de,  43,  58,  76,  333. 

Declaration  of  F.  J.  Campafia,  435-6. 
Deer,  115,  160,  225. 

Demerara,  112. 

Depot  on  Chimborazo,  43. 

Diptera,  112,  114,  116,  130,  176,  200, 
250,  359-61,  363,  391,  430. 

Distant,  Mr.  W.  L.,  134,  363. 

Dixon,  Mr.  George,  Introd.,  xiii. 

Dogs  on  Cayambe,  224-7. 

of  Machachi,  118-19. 

Pedro  de  Penipe,  314-15,  318, 

321-2. 

Domingo  (arriero),  302, 311-12, 318, 321. 

S.  de  los  Colorados,  214-15. 

Donkeys,  9,  106-7. 

Dormida,  la,  238-41,  243,  250,  354-5, 
359,  363,  398,  400,  423. 
Dragon-flies,  115,  355,  362. 

Dress,  148-9. 

Dm,  Aiguille  du,  299,  307. 

Druce,  Mr.  II.,  357-8. 

Drunkenness,  266. 

Duprat,  Senor  J.  G.,  91,  94. 

Duran,  Village  of,  390. 

Dykes,  110,  132. 

Dysentery,  50,  79. 

Earrings,  167,  183. 

Earthquakes,  260,  267,  303. 
Earthworms,  111-12,  351,  362. 

Earwigs,  354-5,  362. 

Eaton,  Rev.  A.  E.,  363,  366. 

Ecuador,  President  of,  Introd.,  xiii, 
172-5,  264,  294. 

bonds,  177,  386,  390. 

banks  in,  181-3. 

Ecuadorian  loan,  Introd.,  xii. 

Eigher,  306. 

Ellis,  Mr.  W.,  196,  339,  395-6,  417. 
Ensillada,  21,  209-11. 

Entomology,  113-17,  134,  137-8,  169, 
187,  200-1,  213,  215,  222,  236-7,  239, 
246,  297,  332,  354-66,  391. 
Equator,  124,  156,  162,  169,  186,  201, 
228,  240. 

Eruptions  of  Cotopaxi,  125-9,  138,  147, 
153-5,  322-30. 


Eruptions  of  Sangai,  73-5. 

Tunguragua,  96-7. 

Esmeraldas,  105,  126,  159. 

Province  of,  16,  258,  294. 

River,  124,  228. 

Espinosa,  Sefior  Javier,  173. 

Senor  Jarrin  de,  222-4,  227,  229, 

231,  236. 

Everest,  Mount,  Introd.,  viii. , 378,  437, 
439. 

Ewbank,  Mr.  Thomas,  273,  281. 
Falcons,  224. 

Ferns,  62,  115,  187,  199,  250,  259,  333, 
352. 

Fish,  117,  251-5,  363. 

Fleas,  98,  100,  303. 

Flies  (see  Diptera). 

Flores,  Sefior  Antonio  (Pres,  of  Ecua- 
dor), 175. 

Flower,  Dr.  W.  H.,  283. 

Flowering  plants,  21,  87,  111,  115,  144, 
199  200,  213,  308,  333-4,  350-3. 
Food.  Introd.,  xi,  45,  185. 

Forsyth,  Sir  T.  D..  49,  84. 

Fossilized  bones,  65. 

Foxes,  115. 

Freshfield,  Mr.  Douglas,  Introd.,  xiii., 
392. 

Frogs,  103,  116. 

tree-,  116,  334. 

Frost-bite,  71,  81-2,  91. 

Fuchsias,  115,  250,  353. 

Fungi,  199,  209,  352. 

Gaiters,  71,  81. 

Galti,  Hacienda  of,  386,  389,  401. 
Garcilasso  de  la  Vega,  239-40,  276. 
Gasteren  Thai,  307. 

Gay-Lussac,  Mons.,  380. 

Geneva,  398. 

Gepp,  Mr.  Antony,  352. 

Giacometti  (maitre  d'hotel),  170-1,  216. 

hotel,  166. 

Gilliss,  Lieut.  J.  M.,  270,  273. 

Glacier  de  Boussingault,  349. 

de  Debrfs,  58’  73,  77-8,  80,  320, 

338,  349. 

de  Humboldt,  349. 

de  Moreno,  87,  349. 


450 


INDEX. 


Glacier  de  Reiss,  320,  349. 

de  Spruce,  320,  349. 

— - de  Stiibel,  323,  327,  332,  349. 

de  Thielmann,  58,  62,  G7,  349. 

de  Tortorillas,  349. 

Espinosa,  231. 

Tschingel,  307. 

Glaciers,  348-50. 

— on  Altar,  305,  307,  349. 

Antisana,  190-1,  194-5,  197-8,  349. 

Carihuairazo,  315-16,  349. 

Cayambe,  228-9,  231-3,  349. 

Chimborazo,  24-5,  58.  G7-8,  75-8, 

86-7, 319-20, 323. 327, 332, 349-50. 

Cotocachi,  2G4,  349. 

— - Cotopaxi,  146,  349. 

- Illiniza,  132-3,  297-8,  349. 
Sara-urcu,  244,  247-9,  349. 

Sincholagua,  160-2,  349. 

Glaisher,  Mr.  J.,  In  trod.,  vii,  35,  424, 
441. 

Gobierno  (tambo),  13-15,  38,  187,  399, 
407,  412,  414. 

Godin,  Mons.,  288.  402. 

Godman  & Salvin,  Messrs.,  200,  357, 
363-4. 

Godoy,  Sefior  J.  (Chilian  Minister),  294. 
Gold,'  92,  155,  181,  240,  266,  269,  277. 
Gordonstown  (Jamaica),  406. 

Gorham,  Rev.  II.  S„  116,  213,  222.  246, 
354,  362. 

Gosset,  Mr.  P.  C.,  195. 

Gouter,  Aiguille  du,  229. 

Graham,  Mr.  W.  W.,  Introd.,  viii. 
Grande,  Rio,  105,  158,  160,  185. 
Grasses,  87,  160,  198-9,  242,  244.  246, 
248,  264,  333,  352. 

Graves,  282-4. 

Greatest  altitudes  for  Batrachia,  363. 

Beetles,  213,  332,  362,  365-6. 

Butterflies,  200,  357,  363-5. 

Centipedes,  354,  362. 

Crustacea,  361,  363,  366. 

Cumulus  cloud,  145. 

- Earthworms,  112,  351,  362. 

Ferns,  62,  333,  352. 

Flies,  361,  363. 

Flowering  plants,  111,  144,  199, 

250,  333-4,  350-3. 

Fuchsias,  250,  353. 


Greatest  altitudes  for  Fungi,  209,  352. 

Grasses,  264,  352. 

Ilymcnoptera,  356-7,  362. 

Lichens,  76,  333,  350,  352. 

Mosses,  264,  316,  333,  350-2. 

Moths,  358-9,  363. 

night  passed  at,  157. 

Phasmas,  355,  362. 

position  determined  on  the  spot 

by  instruments,  Introd.,  x. 

Reptiles,  363. 

Rhyncfiota,  134,  361,  363. 

Scorpions,  107,  363. 

Spiders,  360,  363. 

Gregorio  (of  Machachi),  142,  165. 
Gregory,  Mr.  J.  R.,  328. 

Gringos,  92,  99,  100,  173,  221,  227. 
Guachala,  Ilaeiendaof,  217,  222-3.  366. 

398,  400,  408,  421. 

Gualea,  214-15. 

Guallabamba,  Ravine  of,  127.  218-21. 
400,  409,  413,  422. 

Rio  de,  185,  228. 

Village  of,  221-2,  400. 

Guamani,  185. 

Guamote,  Village  of,  86,  386,  389,  401. 
Guanaxuato,  Mines  of,  341. 

Guaranda,  12-15,  18-39.  46-7,  51-2,  60, 
62-3,  73,  79,  83,  105,  178,  295,  311. 
319,  323,  325,  332,  336,  398,  399. 
407,  412,  414,  427,  436. 

Guard,  60,  62-3. 

Guayaquil,  Introd.,  xiv,  1-4,  12-14,  16- 
18,  20,  22,  33-4,  36.  38,  56,  66,  71-2, 
97,  125,  129,  173-5,  178,  180-2,  203, 
221,  230,  232,  244,  250.  263,  283, 
293,  295,  311,  339,  354,  366.  385, 
387,  390-1,  395-6.  402,  405,  407. 
410-12,  414-15,  421,  425,  427,  436. 
Guayas,  Province  of,  294. 

' River,  3-5,  354,  358,  366. 

Gunzberg,  Baron  Gabriel  de,  203. 
Guyot,  Dr.  Arnold,  289,  396 

IIacienua,  82. 

Ilail,  29,  84,  112,  134,  143-4.  162,  194, 
261. 

Hall,  Colonel,  29,  76.  348.  433. 
Hamilton,  Mr.  Douglas-.  Introd..  xiii, 
166,  172-3,  180. 


INDEX. 


451 


Ilassaurek,  Mr.  F.,  176,  218. 

Headache,  49,  52,  61,  150,  868-70,  374. 
Hebrides,  249. 

Henderson,  Dr.,  49. 

Herschell,  Sir  John  F.  YV.,  424. 

Heuer,  Mr.  Edmund,  Introd.,  xiii. 
Hicks,  Mr.  J.  J.,  395,  397,  425. 
Highest-point  tables,  112,  352-3,  362-3. 
Himalayas,  Introd.,  viii,  x,  xi. 

Hooker,  Sir  Joseph,  419-20. 

Hotels,  11,  98,  170-1,  268,  391. 
Iluayna-Capac  (Inca  monarch),  266, 
277. 

Humboldt,  Alex,  von,  Introd.,  x,  xi,  23, 
25,  27,  33,  72,  76-7,  113-14,  123, 
129,  189,  201,  205,  212.  236.  251- 
5,  334,  340-2,  348,  351,  428-30, 
432-3. 

Glacier  de,  349. 

Humming-birds,  214-15. 

Hutantaqui,  Village  of,  265-6. 
Hymenoptera,  96,  116,  200,  355-7,  362, 
391. 

Ibarra,  Town  of,  257-8,  265,  267-8,  283, 
288,  295,  366. 

Ibi  Gamin  (Kamet),  Introd.,  x,  419. 
Ice-axes,  163-4,  322,  327. 

Ice-traffic,  22. 

Icicles,  75,  297-8. 

Illiniza,  99,  105,  107-8.  130-4,  162.  210, 
231,  233,  235-6,  258,  287,  295,  297- 
9,  343,  347,  349,  356,  361-3,  370, 
372-3,  399-401,  408-9,  413-15,  423, 
426-7. 

Iltaqui,  Hacienda  of,  259-60,  400. 
Human,  Village  of,  265. 

Imbabura,  Province  of,  256-8,  265-7, 
276-7,  281,  284,  294. 

(mountain),  228,  231,252,  256,258, 

265,  347. 

Incas.  237,  257,  266,  270,  277. 

Inca’s  house,  302. 

Indians.  9,  39-40,  60-2,  83,  87,  98, 177-8. 
205,  214,  227,  239-40,  264-7,  271. 
274-6,  278-9,  282,  295.  311. 
Inscribed  stones,  287,  290-2. 

Insects  (see  Entomology). 

Isco,  River,  187-8. 


Jacob v,  Mr.  M„  117,  354.  362. 
Jamaica,  406.  412,  427. 

Jambeli,  bridge  of,  105,  297. 

Jameson,  Dr.  YV.,  112,  168,  230. 

Jarrin,  Pointe,  231-4,  259. 
Jefo-politico,  22,  60,  119.  222-3,  227, 
245,  255,  268,  303. 

Jipipapa,  Town  of.  295. 

Jones,  Mr.  (of  Quito),  180. 

Jose.  S.  de  Chimbo,  15. 

Juan  & Ulloa,  33,  128,  274-5,  288,  290, 
340-2. 

Kamet  (Ibi  Gamin),  Introd.,  x. 
Karakorum  range,  49. 

Kirby,  Mr.  YV.  F„  362. 

Krakatoa,  154,  339. 

Lace  made  by  Indians,  178. 

Ladak,  378. 

Land,  value  in  Ecuador,  304-5. 
Latacunga,  97-8,  105,  124-7,  129,  178, 
295,  302,  398,  399. 

ladies  of,  98,  101. 

Lava,  43,  47,  57,  64.  65,  67,  78,  110,  111, 
123,  126,  138,  140.  145,  146,  148, 
153,  189,  194.  263,  319,  336-8. 
Lava-streams,  64-5,  187,  189,  194,  319, 
327,  337. 

Leon,  Province  of,  294. 

Lepidoptera.10,  113-15,  117,  200-1,  239, 
297,  357-9,  361,  363-5,  388,  430. 
Lice-eating,  10,  98,  101. 

Lichens,  76,  111,  144,  169.  189.  199.  213, 
250,  264,  308,  316. 

Lightning,  144.  147,  162-4,  170. 

Lima,  270,  294. 

Limpiopongo,  Plain  of,  124.  137. 
Litter,  87-8.  90. 

Livingstone’s  Last  Journals.  418. 
Lizards,  103,  115,  176,  218. 

Llamas,  96,  297. 

Llanganati.  mountains  of,  97,  106,  110, 
342.  347. 

Lloa.  Village  of,  208,  215. 

Loads,  6,  47,  132. 

Loja.  Town  of,  295. 

Province  of,  294. 

Loma.  tambo,  11,  12,  15,  399. 


452 


INDEX. 


Lopez,  Senor,  135. 

Lorenzo  (of  Machachi),  108-9,  165. 

Machachi,  95,  97,  99-119,  124-5,  130, 
134.  136,  138-9,  141-2,  155,  158, 
160.  165,  218,  254-5,  257,  287, 
296,  298,  300-2,  313,  328,  358, 
361-3,  398,  399,  404,  408,  409, 
413-15,  422,  427. 

basin  of,  99,  101,  105,  114,  185, 

207,  355. 

Machangara,  River,  207. 

Macheta,  182,  304,  312. 

Magdalena,  Village  of.  208. 
Maize-heads  in  stone,  274-5. 

Malchingi,  Village,  284,  286. 
Maldonado,  Don  Pedro,  12,  15-17. 

map,  12,  15-17,  158,  240. 

Manabi,  Province  of,  173,  294. 

Maps  of  Ecuador,  12,  15-18,  339. 
Marcet,  Dr.  W,  49. 

Massee  & Murray,  Messrs.,  209,  352. 
Masson,  Mons.  G.,  Introd.,  viii.  439. 
Mathews,  Mr.  C.  E.,  Introd.,  xii. 
Maximum  temperatures  (see  Tempera- 
tures). 

Medios,  181. 

Menten,  Father  J.  B.,  93,  168,  403. 
Mera,  Senor  J.  L.,  173. 

Mexico,  Introd.,  viii,  341,  348.354. 
Miguel,  S.  (village),  15. 

Millipedes,  354. 

Mindo,  214-15. 

Minimum  temperatures  (see  Tempera- 
tures). 

Minister,  British,  Introd.,  xiii,  166, 
311. 

Chilian,  294. 

for  Foreign  Affairs,  91-2. 

Mitten,  Mr.  G.,  352. 

Mocha,  Village  of,  30,  83.  87,  90-1,  812, 
398,  401,  431. 

Mojanda.  169,  218,  228,  231,  255-6,  265, 
284-5. 

Mona,  la  (Village  of),  7,  10,  11,  15. 
Money,  181-2. 

Monk’s  Valley,  224,  229-30. 

Mont  Blanc,  Introd.,  ix,  33,  58.  263, 
380,  419,  431,  438. 


Montenegro,  Lieut. -Col.,  22. 

Montufar,  Seflor  Carlos,  27,  114,  428-9. 
Moraines,  191,  194,  229,  249. 

Moreno,  Garcia  (Pres,  of  Ecuador),  90, 
173-4,  265,  267,  403. 

Assassination  of,  174. 

Glacier  de,  87,  349. 

Morphos,  10,  388. 

Mosses.  76,  111,  134,  145, 169.  230,  239, 
250,  308,  316,  333-4,  350-2,  430. 
Moths  (see  Lepidoptera). 

Mountain  - sickness,  Introd.,  v-xi,  26, 
43-4,  48-53,  59.  61,  67,  70,  84-5, 
120-1,  157,  330-1,  366-84,  429,  431, 
434,  437-42. 

Muiscas,  284. 

Mulalo,  Village  of,  126-7,  129-30,  302. 
Mules,  6,  42,  46-7,  76,  79,  159-60,  208, 
285-6,  309. 

Munapamba,  Village  of,  10-12,  15,  38, 
187,  399,  407,  412,  414. 
Musquitoes,  360,  391. 

Myriopoda,  354,  362. 

Nanegal,  214-15. 

Nanti,  Village  of,  85,  386,  389,  401. 
Napo,  River,  124,  193,  215. 

Naranjal,  Valley  of,  307-8,  401,  423. 
Neuroptera,  115,  355,  362. 

Newcastle  (Jamaica),  406. 

Nocturnal  Minima  (see  Temperatures). 
Nono,  18,  214-15. 

Northern  Walls  of  Chimborazo,  320-1, 
323,  327. 

Obertt,  Paid,  93. 

Ocampo,  Hacienda  of,  400. 

Olalla,  Hacienda  of,  291. 

Oliver,  Prof.  D.,  242,  352. 

Olliff,  Mr.  A.  S.,  116-17,  213,  236,  332, 
354,  362.  365. 

Oltmanns,  Prof.  J.,  340. 

Opossums,  115. 

Orellana,  239-40. 

Oriente,  Province  of,  258,  294. 
Ornamentation  of  Pottery,  280. 

Oro,  Province  of,  294. 

Orthoptera,  354.  362,  391. 

Orton,  Prof.  J.,  117,  201,  205. 


INDEX. 


453 


Osten  Sacken,  Baron  C.  R.,  359,  363. 
Otovalo,  178,  180,  218,  256,  258,  260, 
265-6,  268,  284,  295. 

Outfit,  46. 

Owen,  Sir  Richard,  65. 

Ox-cheek  of  Chicago,  61-2,  83,  207. 
Oxygen,  Introd.,  viii,  49,  377-80,  382, 
437-42. 

Oyambaro,  Pyramid  of,  291-2. 

Pablo,  Lake  S.,  265. 

Pacific  Ocean,  2,  12,  20,  68,  105,  124-5, 
201,  239,  322,  324,  328. 

Range  of  Ecuador,  5,  12-14,  21,  86, 

106,  323,  335-6,  407. 

Pamir,  378. 

Panama,  1,  10,  17,  125,  293,  391.  426-7. 

baggage-smashers,  283. 

hats,  101,  421. 

Panecillos,  99,  117,  134,  169,  208,  266. 
Papallacta,  193,  217,  239,  251. 
Paraffin-oil,  243. 

Paramos,  90,  99,  297,  312,  386. 
Pasochoa,  101,  105-6,  158,  170,  185,  205, 
231,  336,  355. 

Passports,  Introd.,  xiv. 

Pastassa,  River,  85,  97,  193. 

Patate,  River,  97. 

Pazmino,  Senor,  22,  37,  39. 

Pedregal,  Hacienda  of,  105,  136,  155, 
158-9,  164,  355,  362,  398,  399. 
Rio,  159. 

Penipe,  Village  of,  85,  303-4,  308-9, 360, 
398,  401. 

-Pedro  de,  314-15,  321-2. 

Perring,  Mr.,  2,  51,  58,  60,  62,  70,  73, 
79,  80,  98,  136,  184,  257,  368. 

Peru,  Introd.,  xi,  2,  239-40,  270-1,  274- 
77,  289,  376. 

Peso,  181. 

Phasmas,  116,  335,  355,  362. 
Photography,  37,  189,  246,  326. 
Piehincha,  94,  106-7,  112,  156,  164, 
166-7,  170,  201,  207-15,  230-1, 
332,  334,  336,  342-3,  345,  347, 
352,  354-6,  358-60,  362-0,  400, 
423,  427-9. 

Province  of,  258,  294. 

Pifo,  Village  of,  185,  217,  291. 

Pike’s  Peak,  299. 


Pilalo,  215. 

Pills,  294. 

Pimelodus  cyclopum,  251-5. 

Pinantura,  Hacienda  of,  185, 187-8,201, 
204,  366. 

Pintac,  Village  of,  186-7,  204. 

Pita,  Rio,  124,  136-7,  159,  164,  185-6. 
Pizarro,  Gonzalo,  239-40,  250. 
Pizarros,  276. 

Plagemann,  Dr.  A.,  Introd.,  viii. 
Plantamour,  Prof.,  398. 

Platt,  of  Oldham,  205. 

Playas,  Hacienda  of,  9,  11,  15. 

Pocock,  Mr.  R.  I.,  354,  360,  362-3. 
Police,  Commissary  of,  22,  37,  39. 
Ponchos,  102,  241. 

Population  in  Provinces  of  Ecuador, 
294. 

in  Towns  of  Ecuador,  295. 

Portillo  Pass,  Introd.,  x. 

Porto-viejo,  295. 

Potash,  chlorate  of,  49-50,  381. 
Pottery,  266,  277-86. 

Prescott  on  Chimborazo,  20. 

Presidents  of  Ecuador,  172-5,  267,  292. 
Pressure,  Atmospheric,  Introd.,  v-xii, 
33-6,  38,  44-5,  51-3,  57,  70,  84-5, 
149-50,  330-1,  344-5,  367-84. 

Prices,  39,  83,  178-80. 

Priests,  22,  175,  259,  264,  268,  295. 
Provinces  of  Ecuador,  294. 

Provisions,  45-6. 

Puela,  215. 

Puengasi  ridge,  105,  167,  184-5. 

Pulse,  rate  of,  301,  368-9,  374,  377-82, 
438-40. 

Pumas,  115,  229,  243. 

Pumice,  94-5,  104,  212. 

Putnam,  Dr.,  254-5. 

Pyramids  of  Quito,  287-93. 

Pyrenean  mastiffs,  119. 

Quartz,  245,  249. 

Quebradas,  108,  168,  218-19,  259-60. 
Quicksand,  313. 

Quinine,  22,  180,  243. 

Quito,  5,  15-17,  24,  99,  107,  112, 124-5, 
165-85,  187,  203,  205-9,  214,  216- 
19. 220-1 , 236, 239, 251, 257,  265-7, 
286, 288,  290-1, 295, 309,  328,  342- 


454 


INDEX. 


3.  348,  389,  391,  398,  399,  403-4. 
408-10,  413,  415,  431-2,  427-8, 
430. 

Quito,  Bank  of,  181-3. 

Basin  of,  105,  107. 

Hotel  at,  100,  170-1. 

lighting  of,  200. 

Observatory  at,  217,  403,  421-2. 

Omnibus,  97. 

Panecillo  of,  109-70.  217.  302.  399. 

410. 

population  of,  107-8,  295. 

Road,  2,  0,  7,  8.  20,  90.  97-9,  105, 

173-4,  187.  290.  299-302,  311-12, 
31 G,  334,  300,  380. 

water-carrier  at,  108-9. 

Quitu,  239-40,  277. 

Quixos,  239-40. 

Racines,  Antonio  (of  Machachi),  100, 
117-18,  141,  105.  254,  287. 
Railway,  the  Ecuadorian,  135,  385,  387, 
389-91. 

Trans-Andean,  336. 

Raisin,  Miss  C.,  94,  104. 

Range  in  altitude,  112-13.  350,  357-8, 
364-6. 

Rarefaction  of  air,  Tut  rod.,  vi.  viii,  44, 
40-53.  66,  70,  121,  149-50,  370,  377, 
380-3. 

Rates  of  speed,  27,  31-2,  06,  70-1,  75. 
79,  149.  155,  102,  104.  191,  198. 
234-5,  202-3,  298-301,  317,  325,  331, 
344,  309-74. 

Reals,  181. 

Rebolledo,  Senor  Rafael,  188-9, 204, 291. 
Recurring  species,  112,  213,  361,  364-0. 
Reed-pipes,  110,  119. 

Regnault’s  Tables,  417. 

Reiss,  Dr.  W.,  180. 

Reiss,  Glacier  de.  320. 

Reiss  & Stiibel,  Doctors,  Introd.,  xiii, 
33,  73,  90,  110,  129,  131,  154,  158, 
186,  190-7,  212,  230,  235,  270,  297, 
305,  321,  341-3,  349,  398,  410. 
Rcmy,  Mons.  Jules,  210-11,  418. 
Rendle,  Mr.  A.  B..  352. 

Reptilia.  3-4,  103,  115,  176.  218,  363. 
Respiration,  30,  31,  49,  52,  150,  367-70, 
374-5,  379-84,  431,  433. 


Revolutions  in  Ecuador,  173-5,  180. 
Rhvnchota,  10,  112,  134,  176,  200,  301, 
363,  391. 

Riobamba,  30,  82,  85-7,  91.  105  0.  106. 
255,  268,  270.  293,  295,  302-3. 
308-12,  328,  340-1,  346.  385-7, 
389-90,  398,  401-2,  422,  431-2,  436. 
Rios,  Province  of.  294. 

River  Amazons,  25,  92,  193,  195,  201. 
239.  290. 

Blanco,  313. 

Chambo,  85,  97. 

Chimbo,  4,5,13,20.86,105,323,327. 

Daule,  4. 

Esmeraldas,  124,  228. 

- — Grande,  105,  158,  100,  185. 

Guallabamba,  185.  228. 

Guavas,  3-o,  3o4,  360. 

Isco,  187-8. 

Jorge,  S.,  10. 

Machangara,  207. 

Napo,  124,  193,  215. 

Pastassa,  85,  97,  193. 

Patate,  97. 

Pedregal,  159. 

Pita,  124,  136-7,  159,  164,  185-6. 

Yaguachi,  4-5. 

Roads,  89-90,  97-9,  187. 

the  Royal.  8-12,  187. 

Rochester,  Bishop  of,  Introd.,  viii. 
Rocks,  descriptions  of,  65,  67-8,  164, 
189,  194,  212,  230,  234,  242,  249, 
203,  280-7,  297,  300,  315-16,  319. 
Rosa,  farm  of  S.,  93. 

Rosario,  Hacienda  de  la,  122-4,  130-1, 
134,  153,  399,  408,  413-14. 
Ruminahui,  99,  101,  105,  110,110,  136, 
145,  158. 170,231,330,343,347,355. 
Rycaut,  Sir  Paul,  239. 

Salisbury,  Marquis  of,  Introd.,  xiii. 
Salvias,  115. 

Sanancajas,  Paramo  of,  90,  312. 

Sand,  Volcanic,  43,  140. 

Sangai,  73-5,  90,  131,  153,  150,  235-6, 
252,  304.  330-7,  383,  387. 
Sara-urcu,  236,  242-51.  307,  327,  343, 
345-7,  349.  400,  423. 

Saussure,  Mons.  H.  B.  de,  Introd.,  ix, 
x,  380-1. 


INDEX. 


455 


Savaneta,  Village  of,  9,  11,  15. 
Schlagintweits  (the  Travellers),  Introd. , 
x,  xi,  419-20. 

Sclater,  Dr.  P.  L.,  214. 

Scorpions,  107,  176,  360,  363,  391. 
Scott,  Mr.  R.  II.,  396. 

Shakespeare,  quotation  from,  260. 
Sharp,  Dr.  D.,  116,  354,  362. 

Sherry,  Dry,  93. 

Shoes,  39-40,  143. 

Sibambe,  Village  of,  386,  390-1. 
Sincholagua,  101,  124,  145,  157-64,  170, 
185,  231,  233,  343,  347,  349.  352. 
•Sivel,  Mons.  (aeronaut),  378-9,  382, 438, 
441. 

Slater,  Mr.  Daniel,  206. 

Smyth,  Prof.  Piazzi,  302. 

Snakes,  3-4. 

Snow,  29,  30,  58,  64-5,  68-70,  73,  109, 
132-3,  142,  146,  160,  162,  190-2, 
194-5,  213,  228,  248-9.  261-2.  298, 
305,  308,  315,  321-2,  325-7,  342, 
346-8. 

Snow-blindness,  59,  71,  192-3,  318. 
Snow-cornices,  120, 133-4,  191,  232,  298, 
315. 

Snow-line,  86,  110,  327,  346-8. 
Snow-spectacles,  192,  206,  314. 
Snow-storms,  84,  225,  243,  261,  298. 
Sol,  181. 

Southern  Walls  of  Chimborazo,  25,  64- 
7,  75-9,  333,  337-8,  369,  372. 
Spiders,  112,  115-16,  169,  243,  360,  363, 
391. 

Springs,  160. 

Spruce,  Mr.  R.,  12-13,  73,  349. 

Glacier  de,  320,  349. 

Spurs,  102. 

Spy,  the,  240-1,  243,  246. 

Squier,  Mr.  E.  George,  270,  275. 

Stars  in  stone,  268-71. 

Steam-blasts,  74-5,  147,  150, 153-4,  330. 
Stebbing,  Rev.  T.  R,  R.,  118,  363. 
Stevenson,  Mr.  W.  B.,  18. 

St.  Bernard,  398. 

St.  John,  Mr.  Alfred,  Report  by,  267, 
294,  390-1. 

St.  Thomas,  426-7. 

Stone  Age,  256,  268. 

Stone  implements,  256,  258,  268-77. 


Straehan,  Mr.  R.,  396-7. 

Stragglers,  113-14,  134. 

Stiibel,  Glacier  de,  323,  327,  332.  349. 
Sucre,  181. 

Sulphur,  338. 

Sunda,  Straits  of,  339. 

Surinam,  112. 

Tambillo  ridge,  101,  105,  166-7. 
Tambos,  10-11,  193. 

keeper  at  Machachi,  99,  100,  117- 

18,  141,  165,  254,  287. 

Tambo  of  S.  Ana,  122,  124,  138. 

Balsabamba,  11. 

Chuquipoquio,  29,  79-80, 120.  311- 

13,  332-4,  385,  399. 

Gobierno,  13-15,  38,  187,  399,  407, 

412,  414. 

Loma,  11,  12,  15,  399. 

Machachi  (see  Machachi). 

Munapamba,  11. 

Playas,  11. 

Savaneta,  11. 

Tortorillas,  21,  24,  31.  40,  83,  86, 

332-4. 

Tapia,  Plateau  of.  341. 

Teall,  Mr.  J.  J.  H.,  189. 
Temperatures,  15,  22,  41,  66,  70-1.  134, 
142-3,  148,  160,  170,  186,  194, 
196,  212,  221,  230,  232-3,  238, 
244-6,  249-50,  253,  263,  297-8, 
300-1,  313,  315,  319,  321,  323, 
325-6,  346,  396-8,  421-4. 

body,  52,  150,  301,  326,  425-7. 

highest  observed  in  the  interior, 

221  422. 

lowest  observed,  149,  422. 

maxima,  84,  221,  300,  421. 

minima,  40,  41,  52,  59,  61,  84, 

149,  194,  210,  237,  297,  300, 
306-8,  311,  313,  319,  321,  421. 

Table  of  Nocturnal  Minima,  423. 

on  summits,  70, 110,  149, 196.  212, 

233,  249,  263,  315,  325,  345-6. 
Teneriffe,  302. 

Tent,  59.  261-2,  327-8. 

Tetons,  299. 

Theakston,  Mr.  J.,  6. 

Theodolite,  24,  110,  259. 

stand,  55-6. 


456 


INDEX. 


Thielmann,  Freiherr  von.  Introd.,  xiii, 
130,  138-9,  349. 

Glacier  de,  58,  62,  67,  349. 

Thermometers,  boiling-point,  33-4. 
Thunderstorms,  78,  84,  101,  116,  134, 
136,  143,  162-4,  170,  186. 

Tibet,  378. 

Tissandier,  Mons.  Gaston  (aeronaut), 
379,  441. 

Tiupullo  ridge,  97,  99.103.122,170,  399. 
Torre,  Senor  T.  Gomez  de  la,  267-8, 
283,  366. 

Tortorillas,  Glacier  de,  349. 

Tambo  of,  21.  24,  31.  40.  41,  43,  83, 

86,  332-4,  354,  357,  362-4,  436. 

Vallon  of,  43,  76. 

Towns  in  Ecuador,  295. 

Trans- Andean  Railway,  336. 

Treasures,  23,  92,  155,'  240,  305. 
Trotter,  Col.  II.,  84. 

Truxillo,  277. 

Tschingel  Glacier,  307. 

Tulcan,  258,  295. 

Tumbaco,  Plain  of,  106,  167,  185,  215, 
217-18,  355-6,  363. 

Tumuli,  266. 

Tunguragua,  24,  30,  85,  96-7,  126, 156, 
215,  252,  336-7,  343,  348-9. 

Province  of,  294. 

Tupac  (Inca  monarch),  277. 

Utu5?ac,  Village  of,  307. 

Val  Tournaxche,  Introd.,  xii,  308. 
Valenciana,  Mine  of,  341. 

Valparaiso,  336. 

Vase-busts,  281. 

Veintemilla,  President  of  Ecuador, 
Introd.,  xiii,  172-5,  264,  294,  389- 
90. 

Pointe,  172,  326. 

Velasco,  Don  Juan  de,  251,  266. 
Ventanas,  Village  of,  86. 

Venezuela,  112. 

Verbenas,  115. 

Verbeek,  Mr.  R.  D.  M.,  339. 

Verity,  Mr.  (interpreter),  180,  184.  188, 
192,  205-6,  209,  218,  227,  229,  236, 
241,  245-6,  258,261,  265,  285,  294-5. 
Vertical  range,  113. 


Villaviceneio,  Dr.  Manuel,  12, 193, 209, 
236,  251. 

Volcanic  dust,  43,  94-5  103-4,  111,  125, 
140-2,  146-8,  153,  230,  326-30,  336. 
346. 

Volcanic  eruptions,  73-5,  94-5,  96-7. 
103-4,  122-9,  138,  147,  153-4,  251, 
264,  322-30. 

Volcanoes,  74-5,  94-6.  121-30,  136-55, 
164, 197,  210.  263-4,  266,  304-5,  313, 
322-30,  336-9. 

Wagner,  Dr.,  93. 

Water,  14,  168. 

Water-carrier  at  Quito,  168-9. 

Waterhouse,  Mr.,  10. 

Weasels,  115. 

Weather,  10-11,  25,  29,  32,  45,  63,  66, 
78,  84,  112,  116,  130-1,  134-5,  136, 
143,  155,  186-7,  194,  208,  216,  225, 
244-6,  298,  306-8,  314. 

Wetterhorn,  315. 

Whistles,  Indian  musical,  281. 

White,  Mr.  Adam,  10. 

White  Valley,  229-30. 

Wiener,  Mons.  C.,  270,  274. 

Wilson,  Mr.  J.  S.,  203. 

Wind,  66,  69,  75,  78,  123, 146,  148,  233, 
261,  297-8,  300,  306,  308,  322,  325. 

Wine,  virtues  of,  50,  207. 

Wisse,M.,  Boiling-point obs.  by, 419-20. 

Wolf,  Dr.,  127,  129,  130. 

Wood-lice,  363,  366. 

Yacu-larca,  313,  318. 

Yaguachi,  River,  4,  5. 

Village,  390-1. 

Yambo,  Village,  97. 

Yanasache  lava,  138,  145. 

Yana-urcu,  218. 

Yarkund,  49,  84. 

Yarouqui,  Plain  of,  218. 

Zamborondon,  5. 

Zinc,  Sulphate  of,  59,  192,  318. 

Zoology  (see  Arachnida,  Batraehia, 
Coleoptera,  Crustacea,  Diptera, 
Earthworms,  Fish,  Frogs,  Hymen- 
optera,  Lepidoptera,  Reptilia, 
Rhynchota,  Spiders,  etc.) 


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